Bandwidth questions - Google Home

Just got my Pixel 2 xl so in a few weeks I will be getting a mini home. Long story short I thought about making my bedroom ‘smart’ to start small. I ordered two TP-link smart plugs when they were half price. They are 2.4 ghz. I have a tri band router. Can I set the plugs upon 2.4 to setup but switch my phone back to 5ghz and still control the plugs?
Thanks

This might vary per router, but most routers I've seen treat the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz networks as the same local networks so devices on different bands can talk to each other. So yes, you should be able to control your smart plugs on 2.4Ghz with your phone/google home on the 5Ghz network.
Also, in case of the smart plugs i dont think the local network matters at all, since they advertised as you being able to control them from anywhere, even when you're not home. The same goes for many other smart devices, I can tell google assistant to turn my home lights on or off when i'm not home (Its a fun way of annoying my friends lol)

Related

WIFI Router

Hi guys/gals,
I have a house were I have 5 computers (WIFI) and a xbox360 (Ethernet Cable connected) to my old linksys router. Sometimes the router freezes when all the computer in the house are turn on. I researched on the different types of routers out in the market and im getting a lot of mixed reviews...
Can anyone recommend from there own experience the best type of router with my setup I currently have? Thanks!
have you upgraded the firmware ?
it's a must for wifi routers as they fix issues all the time
lukcy for us it's very easy to do
Rudegar said:
have you upgraded the firmware ?
it's a must for wifi routers as they fix issues all the time
lukcy for us it's very easy to do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I updated my firmware to the latest version.. I have a Linksys WRT54G
I'm hearing that the D-Link DGL-4300 is a good router for gaming and for multiple computers on the network
Probably not good for you but, I have an Apple Airport Extreme, and I have 2 iMacs wirelessly, 2 older iMacs wtih ethernet, 2 Wii's ,an Xbox, a PS 3, a PSP , a Tilt, an iPhone and two iPods all connected in differing combos, at different times and have never had a glitch, or not been able to connect.
I have that WAG54G and what a piece of crap it is, drop outs galore so I'm thinking it's a Linksys issue.
I'm trying to get rid of it to buy a Billion 7800N, you might want to consider this as reviews have been great, however price might scare you.
i have my server (wired) my wizard my tytn2 a mac book 2 asus eee laptops a htpc and my gateway laptop. on most of the time running though my dlink dir825 i think that it is one of the best routers out there it does dual band simultaneously 5.8 and 2.4ghz plus it has qos and spi. i have yet to reset it. the only thing that i dont like about it is that i cant seem to get it to pass tough gre ip protocal 47 for my vpn.

[Q] wifi antenna external?

was wondering if there was some kind of external wifi antenna that maybe uses the usb/mini usb. most of the ones in the local electronic stores are for windows plat forms and im pretty sure wont work.
Probably not because they would require drivers.
Smart repeater
Ronyx said:
Probably not because they would require drivers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doesn't phyically connect to your tab, but, if your looking to extend your range/reception in your house you could use an amped Wireless Smart repeater http://www.ampedwireless.com/products/sr300.html. I actually chose the access point version http://www.ampedwireless.com/family/accesspoints.html for my house to improve the wireless signal on the second floor. Works great.
The difference between the access point & repeater is the a/p requires a phyical connection to the network & the repeater doesn't. Max throughput on a/p is 300mbps & repeater is 150mbps (since it has to transmit wirelessly to your existing router & wireless clients).
thanks, i definately didnt want to have anything hangin off my tablet, kinda defeats the purpose, i like the repeater, ill check it out
Cheap mode: any router that supports DD-WRT - just put it into 'bridge' mode.
Fancy: the new Cradlepoint CTR35 can work as wifi repeaters as well as a hotspot

[Q] Network problems

Hello.
Since XDA is the only forum I'm loyal to I decided to ask you guys.
I've get my broadband directly from ethernet ports integrated in my walls, and all those ports are connected to a switch. The problem is that I've got a wifi router that I'd like to use so I can connect my laptop and my phone to the network, which works fine if I connect it to one of the ports in my walls, but I also have a XBox 360 connected to one of these ports. And since I always stream music and video from my laptop to my XBox this gives me a problem.
I've temporarily solved this by setting up the router right beside my XBox and hooking the XBox to the router, and it works fine, but I can't connect to the wifi if I leave my livingroom.
Also tried to connect the router inbetween the switch and the cables that goes to the wall ports, but this was totally useless because then I only had acceptable wifi connection in my hallway and my kitchen.
So my question is this, is there anyway to have the router connected to one of these ethernet ports, my computer connected to the router and the XBox connected to another ethernet port and get them to be able to communicate?
EDIT: Disabled DHCP on the router as I've found in a guide, but that was only possible to do on the LAN part of the router, no such setting on the wireless page, so still the same problem.
Sounds a bit compilcated I guess, but I think it should be possible to use this router as some kind of extender for the already existing network.
Regards
Izaac
Tell me, how large is your living room again? -____-
Jk, alright, from my point of view, just place the router at the farthest point between those three gadgets, and buy a wifi extender for the other two. That thing just a couple of bucks anyway. Problem solved. No need for another router.
What is your switch currently connected to for internet access?
If you have it hooked to a modem, then it is probably a 1 port router/modem since you don't have problems drawing an ip on your other items.
You are on the right track. Turning off DHCP is correct. There is no dhcp on the wireless portion so don't look for it. Then you want to set your wireless router with a static ip on your lan side so you can get into it if you need(use something out of the normal range like xxx.xxx.xxx.200). Make sure the static IP is part of your LAN subnet. Those two things turn your wireless router into a switch/wireless access point. From here on out forget about the WAN or Internet port on the router. Use only the LAN ports.
You can now use this wifi router anywhere you want. Place it where you get the best wireless signal.
Wire things up this way wherever you place it:
Connect wall ethernet port to one of the LAN ports. Then connect any other devices needing internet access to the other LAN ports.(Computer, XBOX, whatever...)
Then connect wirelessly with your wireless device.
If you need to modify the router settings, you can browse to xxx.xxx.xxx.200 ( or whatever you set the router static lan ip to) from your computer .
Any devices that need DHCP will draw the address from further upstream from the modem/router.
I live in a two floor appartment with the router on the second floor, most of the building is made of concrete, my router is on the second floor, and i have excellent reception all over the place.
- How long is your cable (from the router to the wall 1 meter? 5? Make it as short as possible)
- Are you using 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz? The most common frequency is 2.4, so if your neighbours are using 2.4, it might disrupt your connection from time to time, so try to change the channel.
- Move the router if your wireless phone or any wireless things are operating on 2.4 GHz nearby. They will disrupt the signal.
Oy..... I forgot to tell him to get Wi-Fi Analytics from the play store to check his signal and find the best channel to use.

Interference with Wireless Mouse/Keyboard?

I've been a huge supporter of Chromecast since the very beginning (I bought it on the day it was announced.), and have used it extensively since receiving it. But recently, my roommate is blaming Chromecast for interfering with his wireless Logitech keyboard and mouse. His bedroom is 2 rooms away from the Chromecast, with the wireless router located in the room between the Chromecast and his room (not sure if distance has an effect on it). I thought that Chromecast basically acts as a small WiFi network that communicates with your own router, and so if Chromecast is interfering, then all wireless networks (on 2.4 GHz band) would be causing interference as well. I've used a Microsoft wireless mouse quite often in our apartment, and have never had problems that I could attribute to Chromecast.
Are his concerns with Chromecast interference justified at all? Or has anyone else experienced issues like this?
I tried looking up if others had this problem, but wasn't able to find anything…
Quevvy said:
recently, my roommate is blaming Chromecast for interfering with his wireless Logitech keyboard and mouse. His bedroom is 2 rooms away from the Chromecast, with the wireless router located in the room between the Chromecast and his room (not sure if distance has an effect on it). I thought that Chromecast basically acts as a small WiFi network that communicates with your own router, and so if Chromecast is interfering, then all wireless networks (on 2.4 GHz band) would be causing interference as well. I've used a Microsoft wireless mouse quite often in our apartment, and have never had problems that I could attribute to Chromecast.
Are his concerns with Chromecast interference justified at all? Or has anyone else experienced issues like this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Chromecast is a wireless client just like your phone, tablet, laptop, etc. Same rules apply, and I do not believe its radio is any more powerful than standard, so unless your roommate's keyboard/mouse receiver is extremely close to Chromecast, I can't think of a reason it would be troublesome. Especially from a bedroom away.
More likely his keyboard/mouse receiver is too close to another wireless antenna.
That said, my bedroom TV (which is on the other side of the wall from my router) has been picking up interference on the audio channel from the router. I know it's from the router because I turned off the router's radio and the interference went away. Also, repositioning the router (moving it so it's diagonal rather than exactly opposite the TV) changes the amount of interference. Keep in mind this is an old analog TV that is connected to Chromecast through a mess of spare converters (that cost more than Chromecast) I had.
So inteference can happen, but I really don't think it's from Chromecast in your case.
Have you roommate try new batteries in their keyboard/mouse - and try putting the USB receiver on a hub, extension cable, or in a different USB port and see if that makes a difference.
If the problem is lag, it could also be the system itself getting USB errors from another USB device.
You could also change the 2.4 GHz wireless channel on the router, but as you said before, if it's really the network it would be affected by just about any network traffic, not just Chromecast.
Of course the easiest elimination is simply to unplug Chromecast and wait until the keyboard/mouse problem reappears. Almost certain it will happen without Chromecast in the mix, unless Chromecast is the only wireless device in the place.
Use Wifi Mouse for Android/iOS. It works flawlessly with my desktop streaming to Chromecast two rooms away
http://wifimouse.necta.us/
Tell your roommate to change his wireless mouse's channel.

cable/cord cutting

Just curious if anyone else here is a cord cutter, and what your setup is.
Mine:
I had Dish Network for a long time, then went to DirecTV due to a special they ran. They totally jacked the pricing once the special ended, so I decided to kill it off completely. My parents bought me a 60-mile antenna from Amazon, and I hooked it up using the existing coax cable already run for the satellite. I set up multiple FireTVs and a Roku on my TVs, since i already have Amazon Prime (includes Prime Video) and Netflix. I'm pulling 150MB down and pushing 50MB up, so streaming everything made sense. Plus, having a rooted FireTV opened up a few extras perks with the FireTV.
With my antenna, I was getting 16-18 HD local channels (rural Pennsylvania, USA) on a good day. Sometimes, when the main channel in a providers grouping would fail due to weak signal, the whole subchannel would go (if WYOU / 22-1 would fail, 22-2, 22-3, and 22-4, would all fail).
I wasn't happy with the weak signal. I know it's because it goes from the antenna booster, to a 2-way splitter, then each split goes to another 2-way splitter. 4 TVs in all. Each time it splits, the signal strength is halved. It's at roughly 1/4 the strength at each tv, so each tv gets slightly different channels.
I bought an HDHomerun Connect Quattro, so that I can stream the antenna input over 4 tuners/devices, so that it keeps all the splitters out of the equation.
The only thing I have to do yet is take my spare Ubiquiti AirRouter-HP, set it to Station (client mode) and plug it into the Connect Quattro, which is Ethernet only.
It's still WIP. I haven't found a great solution, especially since I'm close to a large tree line, which screws with antenna signal.

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