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As the title suggests, I have very weak Wi-Fi reception with my Diamond. I already set the Wi-Fi to best performance, I was wondering if there was any other setting that might help enhance the reception. I hate to think the unit is defective.
I'm only getting Three bars of signal in the same room, it hovers between four and five within three or so feet, but if I leave the same room it drops to only one bar most of the time, occasionally shooting up or dropping all together. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi
It could be so many factors. Have you changed the channel number to see if that helps What other electronic equipment is close by the router and maybe bluetooth or wireless devices such as telephones etc that my use 2,4ghz frequency (if thats what you are using on 802.11 router. My diamond picks it up just fine.
But bear in mind the overall speed should not really be affected that much for browsing etc if at all
How would I go about changing the channel? Im a bit of a novice with networking.
you would need to change the channel on your route by going into its properties normally something like 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.2.254 etc. But read up if you are unsure so you done mess up any other settings that could disconnect or interrupt your current wireless settings
Hi, I have a few questions I would like to ask about the Service Mode you can get by accessing it from the dialler.
1) Can you make your phone search for a signal any faster? I notice that if I go to somewhere that has no service it takes a while for the phone to "update" to emergency calls only.
2) What does Dual Mode Improvement really do and is this any good for me as I am on 3 UK (Three)
3) What is IMSI replacement in the Network Control menu?
** Thank you kindly for taking the time to read my post &/or answer any of my questions.
1/ Try this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mcstealthapps.freshnetwork
2/ A dual-mode phone is a telephone which uses more than one technique for sending and receiving voice and data.
3/ Every mobile phone has the requirement to optimize the reception. If there is more than one base station of the subscribed network operator accessible, it will always choose the one with the strongest signal.
An IMSI-catcher masquerades as a base station and causes every mobile phone of the simulated network operator within a defined radius to log in. With the help of a special identity request, it is able to force the transmission of the IMSI.
Thanks so much for giving the time to answer my questions.
Also, do you know what each of the settings mean for the Diversity Control, I know it's something to do with the phone seeing and utilisting a certain base station but which one would be best for reception gain?
Under: [3] UMTS RF NV > [3] UMTS DIVERSITY CONTROL
I have it currently set to: [1]Diversity on (*)
But what different would it make if i were to set it to: [2]Diversity off [3]Diversity only [4] RxDPM on ?
Thanks once again.
Antenna diversity, also known as space diversity, is any one of several wireless diversity schemes that uses two or more antennas to improve the quality and reliability of a wireless link. Often, especially in urban and indoor environments, there is no clear line-of-sight (LOS) between transmitter and receiver. Instead the signal is reflected along multiple paths before finally being received. Each of these bounces can introduce phase shifts, time delays, attenuations, and distortions that can destructively interfere with one another at the aperture of the receiving antenna.
Antenna diversity is especially effective at mitigating these multipath situations. This is because multiple antennas offer a receiver several observations of the same signal. Each antenna will experience a different interference environment. Thus, if one antenna is experiencing a deep fade, it is likely that another has a sufficient signal. Collectively such a system can provide a robust link. While this is primarily seen in receiving systems (diversity reception), the analog has also proven valuable for transmitting systems (transmit diversity) as well.
Inherently an antenna diversity scheme requires additional hardware and integration versus a single antenna system but due to the commonality of the signal paths a fair amount of circuitry can be shared. Also with the multiple signals there is a greater processing demand placed on the receiver, which can lead to tighter design requirements. Typically, however, signal reliability is paramount and using multiple antennas is an effective way to decrease the number of drop-outs and lost connections.
Antenna diversity can be realized in several ways. Depending on the environment and the expected interference, designers can employ one or more of these methods to improve signal quality. In fact multiple methods are frequently used to further increase reliability.
Spatial diversity employs multiple antennas, usually with the same characteristics, that are physically separated from one another. Depending upon the expected incidence of the incoming signal, sometimes a space on the order of a wavelength is sufficient. Other times much larger distances are needed. Cellularization or sectorization, for example, is a spatial diversity scheme that can have antennas or base stations miles apart. This is especially beneficial for the mobile communication industry since it allows multiple users to share a limited communication spectrum and avoid co-channel interference.
Pattern diversity consists of two or more co-located antennas with different radiation patterns. This type of diversity makes use of directive antennas that are usually physically separated by some (often short) distance. Collectively they are capable of discriminating a large portion of angle space and can provide a higher gain versus a single omnidirectional radiator.
Polarization diversity combines pairs of antennas with orthogonal polarizations (i.e. horizontal/vertical, ± slant 45°, Left-hand/Right-hand CP etc.). Reflected signals can undergo polarization changes depending on the medium through which they are travelling. A polarisation difference of 90° will result in an attenuation factor of up to 34dB in signal strength. By pairing two complementary polarizations, this scheme can immunize a system from polarization mismatches that would otherwise cause signal fade. Additionally, such diversity has proven valuable at radio and mobile communication base stations since it is less susceptible to the near random orientations of transmitting antennas.
Transmit/Receive diversity uses two separate, collocated antennas for transmit and receive functions. Such a configuration eliminates the need for a duplexer and can protect sensitive receiver components from the high power used in transmit.
Adaptive arrays can be a single antenna with active elements or an array of similar antennas with ability to change their combined radiation pattern as different conditions persist. Active electronically scanned arrays (AESAs) manipulate phase shifters and attenuators at the face of each radiating site to provide a near instantaneous scan ability as well as pattern and polarization control. This is especially beneficial for radar applications since it affords a signal antenna the ability to switch among several different modes such as searching, tracking, mapping and jamming countermeasures.
All of the above techniques require some sort of post processing to recover the desired message. Among these techniques are:
- Switching – In a switching receiver, the signal from only one antenna is fed to the receiver for as long as the quality of that signal remains above some prescribed threshold. If and when the signal degrades, another antenna is switched in. Switching is the easiest and least power consuming of the antenna diversity processing techniques but periods of fading and desynchronization may occur while the quality of one antenna degrades and another antenna link is established.
- Selecting – As with switching, selection processing presents only one antenna’s signal to the receiver at any given time. The antenna chosen, however, is based on the best signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) among the received signals. This requires that a pre-measurement take place and that all antennas have established connections (at least during the SNR measurement) leading to a higher power requirement. The actual selection process can take place in between received packets of information. This ensures that a single antenna connection is maintained as much as possible. Switching can then take place on a packet-by-packet basis if necessary.
- Combining – In combining, all antennas maintain established connections at all times. The signals are then combined and presented to the receiver. Depending on the sophistication of the system, the signals can be added directly (equal gain combining) or weighted and added coherently (maximal-ratio combining). Such a system provides the greatest resistance to fading but since all the receive paths must remain energized, it also consumes the most power.
- Dynamic Control – Dynamically controlled receivers are capable of choosing from the above processing schemes for whenever the situation arises. While much more complex, they optimize the power vs. performance trade-off. Transitions between modes and/or antenna connections are signaled by a change in the perceived quality of the link. In situations of low fading, the receiver can employ no diversity and use the signal presented by a single antenna. As conditions degrade, the receiver can then assume the more highly reliable but power-hungry modes described above.
A well-known practical application of diversity reception is in wireless microphones, and in similar electronic devices such as wireless guitar systems. A wireless microphone with a non-diversity receiver (a receiver having only one antenna) is prone to random drop-outs, fades, noise, or other interference, especially if the transmitter (the wireless microphone) is in motion. A wireless microphone or sound system using diversity reception will switch to the other antenna within microseconds if one antenna experiences noise, providing an improved quality signal with fewer drop-outs and noise. Ideally, no drop-outs or noise will occur in the received signal.
Another common usage is in Wi-Fi networking gear and cordless telephones to compensate for multipath interference. The base station will switch reception to one of two antennas depending on which is currently receiving a stronger signal. For best results, the antennas are usually placed one wavelength apart. For microwave bands, where the wavelengths are under 100 cm, this can often be done with two antennas attached to the same hardware. For lower frequencies and longer wavelengths, the antennas must be several meters apart, making it much less reasonable.
Mobile phone towers also often take advantage of diversity - each face (sector) of a tower will often have two antennas; one is transmitting and receiving, while the other is a receive only antenna. Two receivers are used to perform diversity reception.
Cell antennas on an electricity pylon showing two antennas per sector
The use of multiple antennas at both transmit and receive results in a multiple-input multiple-output (MIMO) system. The use of diversity techniques at both ends of the link is termed space–time coding.
why does my battery die so quickly when i am on public networks or on my school's network? each of these networks has an authentication process, though my school's network automatically authenticates. i know it's the public networks that are eating my battery because at home i get several more hours of screen time and nearly twice the total battery life with the same type of usage.
skiier54 said:
why does my battery die so quickly when i am on public networks or on my school's network? each of these networks has an authentication process, though my school's network automatically authenticates. i know it's the public networks that are eating my battery because at home i get several more hours of screen time and nearly twice the total battery life with the same type of usage.
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I don't know, but are the types of wifi networks the same? 5ghz vs 2.4ghz? 802.11ac vs n vs g vs b?
I would also question how much activity the device receives from the public/school networks vs at home - where i'd expect it to be a more "quiet" network.
Have you profiled how much awake-time (not screen on time) changes?
I've run into the same thing at the college where I work. The WiFi is secured, and the AP is right outside my office. I was thinking my battery drain was due to the lack of a cell signal, building is basically a Faraday cage, no cell service inside. My nice boss got us a microcell, so I now have great cell reception. And my battery dies even faster. My data is always turned off.
Nobody has a clue, but everyone else here has the same problem, batteries just seem to hate schools.
BTW; at home, battery life is great, even when out on long walks with the dog. I pick up Xfinity WiFi, no noticeable battery drain. Plugged my phone in Friday night, Sunday it was down to about 60%, no charging in between.
So it's probably a combination of network load and the authentication process. At least I know it's not my phone's OS/battery since you guys have the same problem. Thanks.
I recently faced an interesting problem using android location services - here is a problem:
You're on cruise ship, in the mid-Atlantic , and the ship has its own cellular network and its own wi-fi . when I'm connected to ship's cellular network , my phone shows I'm in Miami (although the ship is actually few hundred miles away), and when connected to Wi-Fi - it shows I'm in ... Germany . However, it blips from time to time and shows sometimes I'm indeed in the middle of the sea. The only way to get my actual GPS coordinates constantly was to set the phone to 'airplane mode' - when it's disconnected from cellular network and WiFi. When I tried to find out how to restrict getting location from any other source but phone GPS - I wasn't able to do that (besides using 'airplane' mode on cruise ship - lol ) - any help here will be appreciated(and I used Android 5.0 on my xperia). As I noticed, android probably compares 'location accuracy' from GPS / WiFi / Cellular network and decides to show it based on the best accuracy (and phone GPS accuracy in open see might vary depending on many factors).
Which device?
Trafalgar Square said:
Which device?
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Sony Xperia Z3 compact
My wife and I both have the Turbo on VZW (joint plan, etc). I generally perform any mods on my phone first, before doing the same to hers, so that I know what issues will happen and I can make sure the phone doesn't work any differently for her daily usage. So, aside from apps, we have the same phone in theory. Both phones are stock SU4TL-44, rooted, BL-unlocked (via Sunshine) states.
My wife's has been having rather poor battery life for the past many months. I can get a good 3.5+ hours of screen-on-time on my phone (as reported by GSam) but hers only gets like 1.5 hours on a good day. Her phone radio is what's reported as the largest load, so I started trying things there. We were both on the .49 radio (using the TWRP download by firstEncounter), so I thought maybe her phone doesn't like that radio, and put her back to the .44 radio. (Note, I have checked the hashes on these files, and they match. I also have used the same-exact files on both phones (via dropbox)... so it shouldn't be a radio/corruption issue.) Both
I'm not sure if the battery life has improved or not (only been a few days, but checking just now it looks like her max is now 2.5 hours in GSam, so that's a start I guess) but now another problem has come up - her phone keeps dropping the internet connection. Wifi appears to remain connected, but it shows an "!" which means it has lost internet connectivity. Checking the browser confirms that it is really lost for internet sites. (Next time, I plan to try going to the router IP and seeing if I can get to that, at least...) This drop happens sporadically, and doesn't self-repair... it is only fixed by disabling and then re-enabling Wifi. I "forgot" the wifi (2.4GHz, by the way), re-connected, and re-entered the password... this doesn't seem to fix the dropout either.
The wifi, itself, is working well. My Turbo has none of these issues, my work phone (Turbo2) doesn't appear to have issues, nor do our 2 laptops or wifi-Tivo... every other device works fine, just her phone has been giving issues.
Needless to say, the priority is to fix the dropping internet connectivity... if anyone can help me troubleshoot this further, I would appreciate it.
Longer term, I'd like to figure out the battery issues (health is reported as "good" by various battery apps... is there a way to see what the "real" capacity is, and not just "good/bad"?)... but the wifi is the primary issue. Part of me thinks of doing a factory reset (or maybe flashing SU4TL-49 and then re-rooting)... but I fear this may not fix anything.
Any help/ideas are appreciated. Thank you!
EDIT: One more difference - she has a Tile Gen2 along with the associated app. The app requires Bluetooth to be on, as it does some polling, I expect. I have turned this off for now (further testing) to see if it helps. She's had the Tile for a while, so it's not a new change... but I'm running out of ideas. Battery usage isn't significant, based on what's reported... but I thought maybe it has some effect on the wifi... I simply don't know, so I'm trying anything!
A little more info. I have left her bluetooth off for the past day, thinking that maybe Tile was the problem... it certainly seems to have helped the battery life (weird, since all the battery tools I've used don't seem to identify the app or BT as a large battery sink?)
Things were great for about 24 hours, but now the dreaded exclamation point is back. I tried getting to the router, but I get "ERR_ADDRESS_UNREACHABLE" from Chrome. Weird since I'm giving it an actual IP address (so no DNS should be involved). Phone has a valid IP address (same one it's had for a while now) and claims to have the interface "up" as well.
Any ideas, anyone?
EDIT: I see some UPNP activity in my router... I wonder if that has something to do with it. As a test, I have disabled UPNP to see if that helps (and what it breaks... which shouldn't be much, as I try to keep things explicitly configured)....
A further update in case others run into problems like this.... the issue may be caused by an interaction between my router and the bluetooth Tile app (which isn't on my phone but uses BT relatively often) - note that BT runs on the same 2.4GHz frequency as her wifi. I chose 2.4Ghz wifi (instead of 5Ghz) on her phone because it helps extend the range. Turning off BT on her phone seems to keep the connection stable and without issue... I have a little more testing to do to ensure it's the root cause before I consider it found.
There are a few potential solutions. One is to update the firmware on the router to a newer one which has an option to enable BT coexistence mode (disables some features in 2.4GHz wifi to improve compatibility). Another is to move her to 5GHz. I plan to test the coexistence mode, just to prove it's the problem... but my final solution will likely be to move her to 5GHz as the coexistence mode may reduce performance on 2.4GHz.
schwinn8 said:
A further update in case others run into problems like this.... the issue may be caused by an interaction between my router and the bluetooth Tile app (which isn't on my phone but uses BT relatively often) - note that BT runs on the same 2.4GHz frequency as her wifi. I chose 2.4Ghz wifi (instead of 5Ghz) on her phone because it helps extend the range. Turning off BT on her phone seems to keep the connection stable and without issue... I have a little more testing to do to ensure it's the root cause before I consider it found.
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What about changing Wi-Fi channels on the router?
I also disable 5GHz on both our Quarks because the 5GHz range is shorter. I set our phones to ONLY connect to 2.4GHz and that's what I use for Wi-Fi router too (even routers with dual bands, I disable the 5GHz band).
But you can change 2.4GHz Wi-Fi router channels to mitigate interference, right?
http://www.goldtouch.com/stop-bluetooth-interference-messing-devices/
How to Stop Bluetooth Interference From Messing With Your Other Devices
Change Router Channel: If you have an Apple router and you’re constantly getting interference with your WiFi, try rebooting it. Upon restart, the station will search for a new channel — specifically, a different channel than the one your Bluetooth devices are using to communicate. If you don’t have an Apple router, you may need to instead go into your router settings and try changing the channel manually. Experiment with different channels to see which one works best.
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I don't use anything Apple -- I just quoted from that article because it suggested what I was suggesting, changing Wi-Fi channels...
Yeah, I kept testing and found that the BT wasn't the only issue (may have been part of it, but it still dropped internet after a day or two even when BT was off).
Like you said, it's probably a 2.4GHz interference issue... and since I'm in an apartment building the spectrum is rather crowded. Plus, if anyone else bought a new phone/monitor/microwave/router that could be causing the issue, too. Bottom line, there's too much out of my control, so I switched her back onto 5GHz and the problem seems to have gone away (at least for the past few days)... so I'll leave it at that. I can't solve the entire area's problem, after all!
I am on the "cleanest" channel I can find, but that's only based on seeing other routers (via Wifi Analyzer)... interference won't be "seen" there, so we can only guess on those issues.
Bottom line, switching her phone to 5GHz is good enough for now, and solves the issue. I'll flip her phone back to the 49 radio as well.
In fact, this might have also helped her battery issue - when the phone lost internet, it would sit there and suck down power for "phone radio" doing who-knows-what. I don't see why it should do that, but it really killed the battery on one of the days. Putting her on 5Ghz prevents the loss of internet, and the battery drain from that, too... so that's better. Still, she gets much less SOT than I do on my phone, and she uses it less than I do... maybe the battery just needs to be replaced after all.
I wish there was a way to see what the "real capacity" is of the battery, instead of just assuming that 100% = original capacity (which we know it won't be). Do you know of a way to get that info?