Hi all,
I got fed up with waiting for something like this to be released, so I've decided to make my own, and thought I might as well share the process.
My requirements are:
- One handed operation
- Windscreen mount dock
- Works with my case
- Dock is always 'plugged in' and is left mounted in my car
- Car mode on the phone is triggered when using with the dock (I use Tasker to trigger a load of actions when my car dock is used, such as turning on Bluetooth, saving the current location when I remove the phone from the dock as a basic 'car finder' etc)
I started off with this dock, which I got ages ago as I just wanted something (even though it wasn't what I thought I would end up with). I got this phone almost the day it was launched, and so there wasn't a lot of choice at the time.
Samsung ECS-K200BE - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-Gal...4CPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360155480&sr=8-1
I then had to look for a short micro USB extension cable with a right-angled plug, which turned out to be extremely difficult to find for some reason! eBay delivered in the end (although it took over a month to arrive): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-USB..._USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item41642d957a
You can also get one that goes to a USB socket instead of a micro USB one, but you'll then lose the ability to trigger car mode later on, as USB has 4 pins only, and phone manufacturers tend to use the 5th pin in micro USB for this purpose.
I'm afraid I didn't take photos of the first couple of steps, but they are fairly simple.
The Micro USB plug has a couple of raised parts on the longer side of the D shape, which provide the 'click' as you plug the cables in, and ensure that cables don't just fall out easily by providing some resistance. You can see them on this image for example: http://www.cablewholesale.com/hires/10u2-03xxx.jpg I filed these off on my micro USB extension, as I want the phone to slide in and out the dock really easily, and the dock itself will hold the phone in position on the plug, so it's not a problem. I filed them down until the plug slid in and out the phone really easily with no resistance at all. Careful where the filings go, you don't want them shorting anything out!
I then put tape across the bottom of my phone (masking tape would do, but I used PVC electrical insulation tape since it's what I had to hand), cut a slot for the micro USB plug, put the whole thing in the dock, position it all to be as central as you can, and plug the micro USB plug into the phone through the cut in the tape.
I also removed the rubber protective piece from the bottom of the dock (it's a separate piece to the back) during this step to prevent glue getting all over it, but remember to leave a small gap for it if you do the same! I also used a penknife to cut some grooves into the sides of the gap that the plug pokes through, to help the glue have something to grip on to.
It's then just a case of using some 5 minute epoxy to hold everything in place - it will stop being runny after 5 minutes, but it will be a bit jelly like for a while after that. I did this bit in 2 stages - an initial glue to get the position fairly fixed, then while the glue was still a bit flexible I put a larger amount on around the sides and also between the outgoing cable and the dock to fix everything. I left the phone in for a few hours (I took it out after the first stage and put it back in again though to make sure I wasn't gluing the phone to the dock!), and had some pressure pushing the plug into the phone/dock assembly (with the phone held in tightly by the dock). You'll have to experiment with the best way to do this but I used tape initially, then when the glue had gone hard but flexible still, i rested the whole lot upright and balancing on the plug to push it in (keep glue away from the phone and only on the dock).
After a couple of hours (or maybe a few more) the glue should harden and go solid, holding everything in place.
And that's pretty much where I'm up to at the moment. The phone slides in and out very easily (I'm pretty happy with it, it's better than I expected), and connecting a charging cable to the extension proves that it works - the phone starts charging when I slide it into the dock, so not broken anything so far!
I'll attach a picture in the next post, as I can do that from my phone a lot easier than transferring it to this PC.
Re: Car Dock with integrated Micro USB Charging plug (ongoing project)
(Apologies for the side-view being blurry)
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II using Tapatalk 2
Next steps: I plan to put araldite epoxy over the whole plug to secure it and really make sure it isn't going anywhere. This takes a lot longer to set than the glue I've used so far, but the advantage of using the 5 minute epoxy first is that my phone doesn't have to be in the dock for this stage. Then I'll sand it smooth and spray it black, and work on the car mode triggering bit, which I'm going to make as a separate unit. The advantage of using the extension lead is that you can attach whatever accessory you want into the micro USB, audio splitter, charging, car mode or whatever. Or I'm sure you can find similar MHL extensions if you wanted to do that as well.
This is an interesting project. Thanks for sharing the idea. But do you really want to recharge your phone every time you use the dock? Would unnecessary recharging shorten the life of the battery?
Spare batteries are cheap. I'd rather have a phone that is charged more than one with a battery that will last longer. If I have to get a new battery for £10 or whatever I'm not too bothered! I already have 3 batteries for this phone. In addition, as part of a previous project, I have a switch in my car that controls the power output of the micro USB cable coming out of my dashboard so I could turn it off if necessary, and the dock would still trigger car mode when plugged in.
Been a while since I updated this - sorry!
Right, so at the end of the last post, I had basically filed the USB plug down so it didn't 'click' into place, and glued it in place using some fast epoxy. Next, I cut back quite a lot of the fast epoxy (it's not as good as the araldite that I'm going to put all over it, and it's only there to hold the plug in position while the araldite dries). I also cut some gouges into the surfaces around where I'm gluing to help the araldite adhere to the surfaces - it's worth sanding them with some fairly coarse paper too, though probably not that necessary, it'll be plenty strong enough.
After that I masked off the bottom of the cradle, but leaving the usb plug sticking through
Once this was done, I mixed up some Araldite epoxy resin. It has a resin and a hardener that you mix in a 2:1 ratio. I also added quite a lot of finely ground up wood fibres to the mix - if you have access to some, it improves the strength of the material, and also helps you mould it into a shape when you apply it, rather than have the glue run everywhere. You can always hold it in place with tape if not.
After it has dried (first photo), it sands quite well to the desired shape. I didn't want anything too fancy so just made some flats on it and left it at that (2nd and 3rd photos).
Finally I masked it off again, sprayed it matt black and re-fitted the rubber piece that goes at the bottom either side. Voila!
It's possible to spend a lot longer making this neat than I did, but my solution works perfectly for me. If I ever decide I want to make it neater I can easily sand the paint off, sand more glue (or add more on top), and repaint.
Some action photos:
None with the phone in yet as I was using the phone to take the pics - will have to remember my actual camera at some point if anyone is interested!
I used a 'rapstrap' to hold the cable to the stem of the cradle, keeping it hidden and out the way, and plugged in the cable from my car (emerges from a hole in the A pillar where it meets the dashboard - that's a separate mod to the car!). For the cable to switch things into smart dock / car mode / whatever mode I want, I'm going to making the cable described in this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1321491
I have all the parts necessary, will have to see how up-to-scratch my precision soldering skills are! This way, I can swap out the cable for a different one that triggers a different mode if I want, or re-use the cable on another car dock in the future (either one I modified or not!)
Apologies for the rotation of the photos, it's the right way up on the originals... strange.
I should say as well - I've been using this for a couple of weeks now, and I'm glad I spent the effort. It works so much better than I expected! It's effortless to get the phone in and out. I thought there would be a lot more 'misses' when I tried to get the phone in, but it's gone in straight away almost every time - obviously there has been the odd 'miss'! The sides of the cradle do a good job guiding the phone in, as the phone is almost as wide as them, so it gets roughly centred anyway, then you just squeeze the sides of the dock in and the phone is gripped tightly - no chance of falling out. To release, it's just a button at the back of the dock then lift straight out with the same hand - pretty convenient.
I'd love to see other people's pics if they make one, or improve mine (probably not too hard to do!), or any other mods that do the same thing!
Car Dock with integrated Micro USB Charging plug (ongoing project)
Nice work mate
:good:
Re: Car Dock with integrated Micro USB Charging plug (ongoing project)
I think it looks great. Obviously a labor of love and I'm down with that. This holder could suffice for your next couple Sammy phones as long as the USB depth doesn't change much with different cases/devices. Overall I dig it
This looks like what I did for my S3 in August of last year, except I molded Sugru to keep everything together and for the base, I used a holster w/ the "wings" bent apart so I could just slide in from the top and pull it up and out when undocking. It works w/ a thin case (i usually just have a bumper around my phone).
I actually trimmed it a bit more after this picture was taken to make it cleaner and even cut the top half of the holster off to make it easier to grip the phone when pulling it out. Best thing is, it's so fast to pop it in or pull it off to undock it - I actually had the phone in the holster with the cable plugged in while the Sugru was setting so it lined up the cable perfectly.
Re: Car Dock with integrated Micro USB Charging plug (ongoing project)
Very nice! I cant seem to find one anywhere that fits the note 2 with microusb. Keep us updated
Sent from my SGH-I317 using xda premium
Thanks all for you kind comments! I'm just happy I have a good setup now. Once the cable disappears behind the dock, it disappears from the drivers point of view - it goes behind the dashboard where it's connected to a USB charging unit and a 3 way switch (can choose between charging on, off and on with ignition), all wired directly into the fuse box. Last step is the cable to put it into car mode or smart dock mode (not decided which to use yet), also with audio out - though I would likely not use that, since I use Bluetooth to the car anyway. Thought I might as well make the whole cable with that option since I was making one anyway! I may have a stab at that this weekend
how about using NFC for changing profile? You could attache NFC tag to your holder
Yep, that's also an option and would be very easy to do - but I have Tasker installed and use the car mode to trigger a load of actions, so probably won't be needing NFC for that.
So... like most of you, i have at least one problem with my teclast x98 air tablet, version C9J8, running only windows (8.1 pro/10 preview).
At this time i've constantly encountered the following problems:
- not turning on after being shut down. Pressing the power button doesn't do nothing. Sometimes it does this while charging, at the end of the charge, othertimes it... simply won't power on.
- huge battery drain in stand by. I've flashed ALL (yes... all) dual boot/single boot air/air 2 BIOS files i could get, in all versions. If it's got a .bin extension... yes, i've flashed that too. No change AT ALL!
- huge batterty drain... when powered off !?!?! Yes, that's the next level of awsomeness. You know your tablet is special when it sometimes discharges faster when turned off compared with it turned on. (@XDA, guys .. can you please add some facepalm smiley/emoji.. i wanted to use it about 30 times since i got this tablet)
- sudden shutdowns. Like when you use your tablet it simply dies in your hands with no apparent reason.
- battery meter stuck at 7% and only 1 cell reported. NOT fixed by the methods already known (flashing BIOS and letting it discharge then recharge with tablet turned off).
So.. i'm pissed off. I've disassembled the damn thing in search for some answers. I'll by posting some photos with the guts of this thing (c9j8 version).
First of all, I wanted to check the power draw directly from the battery, so i've desoldered the positive wire from the battery and inserted an amps meter to check the current flow.
For example, the stock charger will supply around 1.5-1.9 amps to the battery when charging (tablet off). For comparison a small 5V 1A, samsung charger supplied 1.1 amps in the same setup. Some other interesting facts, when on and booted to windows - the tablet draws about 1.1-2.2 amps (mostly depending on screen brigtness and cpu load). That's a total of 4-11 watts. If you lower the brigtness from full to low (bottom third of the slider) you effectively half the power consumption. As usual the display consumes more then 50% of the total power being drawn. Those who complain about huge power drain on standby will be surprised to know that the tablet draws 0.3-0.8 amps (it fluctuates) in standby. That’s HUGE. It should be 0.03-0.05 amps at MAXIMUM. 0.3 amps multiplied to a 3.8volts cell is 1.14Watts draw per hour at minimum in my case.
Leaving that aside, let's return to the above problems. The battery is connected to the motherboard by using a 3 wire connection (positive, ground and data bus/i2c or similar). The motherboard itself doesn't feature ANY protection/power management chip aside from a single ROHM controller located under a metal shield. Even if some data is passed between the battery and motherboard, you can simply decouple the battery and power the tablet with regular 18650 lithium cells or 3 AA alkaline batteries in series. The tablet is stupid enough not to notice any difference.
Let's go more deep in the start-up sequence.
When you press the power button, a half a second 500mA ramping to 800mA load is registered. The power management chip measures the voltage drop under that load and if it deems it to be "acceptable" it passes power to the rest of the motherboard. BIOS/firmware takes over from there but does a measurement of its own. If it results in an "ok" the boot sequence can the follow. If not, the BIOS would then power off the tablet. Here lies the first problem. The power management chip and BIOS thresholds for a "low voltage" battery are different. Very different. The chip itself considers the battery voltage to be ok if it's above about 3.45-3.5 volts and not dropping lower then 3.3v under a 500-800mA load. The BIOS/firmware (or whatever software part does this) won't accept a measurement below 3.65v. volts. So, when you pass the BIOS stage and boot to windows, the data you get when checking your battery comes from the power management chip. If you fully discharge the battery in windows (down to 2-3% or similar) and you are able to shutdown the tablet by yourself (it doesn’t cut power by itself) you could find that it cannot power back again because even if the power management ic gives the go ahead, the bios/firmware side refuses to go any further. The battery must be charged for some time before the bios will allow for booting.
The problem is that both power management IC and BIOS readings should be taken in same way and be of similar value. They are not. It’s not that Teclast couldn’t do this, but for whatever reason they decided to write the BIOS in that way. The 7% problem could originate in the fact that a what the BIOS considers a dead battery (0%) is actually charged to a degree and is different from 0% measured at the power management chip level. Overall the power readings are inconsistent in both measurement and reporting. It doesn’t seem to be a hardware problem.
Another problem is how „dumb” is the battery management hardware. In any modern portable computer (laptops, tablets, even phones – excluding some chinese products) you cannot simply disconect the data bus from the battery and simply feed some random 3-4 volts to power the thing. It’s like you would remove the battery from your laptop, check the label on it for the voltage rating and stick a bunch of wires on the contacts (2 of them) and expect the thing to boot. It won’t. Firstly because IT’S NOT SAFE. The battery or motherboard can’t report one to another if a fault is occuring and can’t accurately measure voltage/current consumption.
Yet another problem is that the same power circuitry does not compensate for large voltage/current swings. A simple experiment for you folks to try. Get a aa battery (a battery in general) measure it’s voltage as it’s sitting still then connect a small lightbulb/motor/led/whatever load runs on that battery and measure the voltage WHILE the battery suplies current to the load. You will find a voltage drop at the battery level. It’s normal, is how these things run. A complex electronic device must take that into account in it’s design. At idle/browsing web/viewing picture, the tablet draws about 1.1 amps from a battery that’s registering 3.87volts (at that test’s time in my case). Running a benchmark/video game produced a series of spikes to 2 – 2.1 amps and an aditional voltage drop to around 3.61 volts. Remember that some power rails require exact voltages (cpu core, main bus, 5volt usb bus etc). The power circuitry must provide those exact voltages regarding the input voltage swing. Noup... and that’s the main problem untill now. THEY DONT! I was shocked to see how the chinese engineers are pushing it right on the edge. If you desolder one battery pin and insert an ampere meter in series, that’s enough to induce the little voltage drop needed for the tablet to freeze under load or shut down alltogether. The ampere meter leads were rated to withstand 10 amps under load – and they do, yet the simple fact you inserted a piece of wire along the track is enough to disturb an already delicate balance. The thing is only barely capable of whitstanding it’s own battery voltage swing. In my opinion you can try to reduce the load by disabling turbo modes on cpu/gpu or whatever (and teclast tried with some bios/models of the x98 air) but you cannot fix this by firmware. It’s just bad hardware design. They cut costs on the power management side.
Those are my finds untill now. I’m thinking of adding some capacitance over the power rails to take the load over from the batteries when a large amount of current is drawn (spikes that occur under load). Other then that, there is not much to do about this.
Even so, i don’t know why the tablet still draws power while turned off. I wasn’t able to make it do that while measuring. Aditionally i don’t know why only one cell is reported in windows. More tests are required.
This is still an ongoing "project". Some of my conclusion could be wrong at this stage. Like i've said it's still a work in progress. It would be quite a thing if anyone with some knoledge about the BIOS code (or how it runs on this tablet) could step in and direct me to the right hardware to examine.
here are some photos with the guts of this tablet
As you can see, the C9J8 at least has some metal shield above the cpu area and some crappy thermal compound over it. Some older models lacked the metal shield.
Next we have the battery wires and their link to the motherboard. As you can see, left to the 3 wires there are 4 brown devices, mounted in parallel. Those are capacitors. Like i've said above I'm thinking of adding some aditional capacitance to further help the motherboard compensate for the voltage drops registered on high load scenarios. The chinese guys thought of that, added the 4 caps but deemed them enough. Noup, that's just barely doing it. In fact the whole design is made to a price point, that's to be expected.
For easier probing, I've disconnected the red positive wire, and added a piece of wire of my own, one end to the battery red wire the other to it's coresponding pad on the motherboard. At the end of my wire, i'm probing in series with an ampere meter.
And for the sake of it, here's a photo with the registered power consumption with the tablet on. 1.11 amps x 3.8 volts = 4.21W total power being drawn. Actually that's pretty good. I remember the days i was probing a htc hd2 for some cpu related problems. While doing a benchmark at full brightness that device draw a maximum of 5.5 W. Due to the recent advancements, now we see a tablet drawing only 4.2W (admited, it's not on full load, but the screen is also much larger).
Anyway let's get back to our problems.
1. The high power drain when the tablet was off can be solved in the same way as fixing the reported battery capacity. Like previous guides made, you need to fully discharge the battery and then charge for 8 hours with the tablet OFF (don't turn it on). I had to do this 2 times to get the thing to work.
2. 7% battery and 1 cell reported. Like i've said in my first post, i've tried to let the battery discharge and then recharge while turned off. It never work. However, after desoldering the battery wires from the motherboard and then soldering them back (power was cut off from the motherboard during that time) now after my first attempt to discharge/recharge the battery, the capacity and number of cells are reported correctly for the first time since i've had this tablet. I now have to discharge the tablet again to see if it will get stuck at 7% again but at least i get the capacity reported like it should.
2. The shutdown/freeze under load. This thing ocured to me several times in the past but for whatever reason the tablet doesn't do that anymore. Arghhh.... Anyway, if anyone has this problem and knows how to reproduce it in windows (i'm only running windows now) please do tell me in order to test some solutions to it. My first try is to add some capacitors over the main power rail. If this will work, i'll then design a capacitance multiplier circuit using some transistors since there is not enough space in the tablet to simply add capacitors.
3. High standby drain. In my best scenario, the tablet draws 0.3 to 0.5 amps in standby and that's huge. I've tried disconnecting various devices on the motherboard but all that power goes into the cpu area. It has to do with the cpu core voltage and stand by states. The cpu is simply not sleeping deep enough. However that should be fixable with a bios update if teclast should decide to bother with that. One problem though, it seems not all tablets have this problem. But since it's located in the cpu area, if it should be a hardware fault there is no practical diy fix for that.
Just to confirm, you have tried the 2.02 BIOS that was released with the Lollipop beta a few weeks ago? Several people have reported that this BIOS solved the Windows standby battery issues. I've avoided flashing it myself because many people have also bricked their tablets.
Edited post..
I did tried that, no change. I'm close to fixing my particular problem. I'm now at about 1% per hour.
I'll keep testing meanwhile.
this seems allot like my issues with a C5J6, mostly unstable while charging or shortly after charging, also restart/shutdown is a hit and miss, most of the times I need to hold the power button for 10 seconds after I do reboot/shutdown and start the tablet again.
I'm trying to contact the seller (got it from banggood) but they want a video, should not be that hard but I dunno what they can do about obvious design flaws.
Do you think you can ever get the tablet stable yourself? (I'm not completely sure it's part Windows issues or not)
btw, I only use Windows as I was not interested in another android tablet.
I also just picked up a X98 Air 3G from GearBest, it's the C5J6 version. I just ran into the battery charge stuck at 7% in windows. I'm going to try clearing hibernation data, turning off hibernate while low (powercfg -setdcvalueindex SCHEME_CURRENT SUB_BATTERY BATACTIONCRIT 0) and then fully draining (manual) and letting it charge while off overnight.
I'm very interested in what you have been finding, I would be more than willing to help out if you need any assistance. I have a mutli-meter, soldering iron and a desire to get this thing working like it should. It bugs the hell out of me that it has these silly problems. My Bios version is 5.6.5 with a BIOS build date of 1-16-2015.
Could this have something to do with the Intel Power Managment drivers? Does this 7% problem still continue under Android? I suppose I need to do more testing myself.
HWINFO shows 14432 Designed Capacity (half) current capacity is 1007 mWh (7.0%) current voltage 3.784 V
It's been working fine under Windows for the last week, I dont really use Android much though I will likely try RemixOS sometime soon. I was considering blowing out all the partitions (BTW is there a map of all the partitions and their functions/contents?) and going with straight Windows 10 Pro when its full final version is out.
Is there a list of all hardware revisions and their release date and changes/logs? C5JG,C9J8, wtc......) the naming convention seems to have no real correlation to revision date huh?
PS: I also have been getting forced hibernation under heavy load/heat. I wonder if switching to another version of Windows will change anything? Anyone have the 7% issue and shutdowns under Win7?
Hello liquidmass. The 7% problem happens for me in both windows and android. I haven't figured out what to blame but the hardware side "knows" how to measure the actual charge level, it's just that the reporting part is all wrong or the software is poorly written (BIOS, mostly).
Funny though, all my initial problems seem to have vanished. I cannot figure out why since i can't make the tablet to do those bugs again. The single most probable thing it could have made any difference was the fact that i desoldered the battery wires and short circuited the pads on the motherboard (all 3 of them together) during some initial testing. Since I cannot make the tablet to shutdown under load I can't test a capacitance multiplier circuit over the power rail in order to check for improvements. The damn thing just works now.
Yet, the battery gauge still is broken and since i don't know the software side of these things i cannot figure out why. I can let it discharge completely and it would work fine for some time but it will occur again and so i would have to do it again and so on. I guess i can live with that...
motoi_bogdan said:
Hello liquidmass. The 7% problem happens for me in both windows and android. I haven't figured out what to blame but the hardware side "knows" how to measure the actual charge level, it's just that the reporting part is all wrong or the software is poorly written (BIOS, mostly).
Funny though, all my initial problems seem to have vanished. I cannot figure out why since i can't make the tablet to do those bugs again. The single most probable thing it could have made any difference was the fact that i desoldered the battery wires and short circuited the pads on the motherboard (all 3 of them together) during some initial testing. Since I cannot make the tablet to shutdown under load I can't test a capacitance multiplier circuit over the power rail in order to check for improvements. The damn thing just works now.
Yet, the battery gauge still is broken and since i don't know the software side of these things i cannot figure out why. I can let it discharge completely and it would work fine for some time but it will occur again and so i would have to do it again and so on. I guess i can live with that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to figure out the 7% bug as well but I don't think it has anything to do with software. I might try and open it up to de-solder the battery wires and short the mainboard pins (if anyone else does this, make sure you do disconnect the battery and don't short the wires of the battery!!)
The shutdown under load might be my issues as well, but the most annoying thing probably is that reboot or shutdown don't work most of the time, it will just hang in a state that requires me to press the power button for 10 seconds and start it up again (with shutdown this isn't always obvious until you try and turn it on again)
I kinda hope things get a bit more stable with windows 10, else it's quite an expensive paperweight to be honest.
Hello,
I have several months a X98 Air 3G with id: C5J6. After two weeks I try install thunderbird and windows 10 collapse. I send several mails at Teclast with very little result. Such things as brushing in the language Chinese. After a while I try to reinstall windows via the UBS. After that my tablet has a black screen. I try to send the tablet back to china but that’s no option. I have experience that its never come back. With the USB flasher CH341A and a flash cable I flash the WINBOND 25Q64FW on board after disconnecting the battery. When I read it is flashed. So far so good? After loading with 5 volt and connecting the battery my tablet stays black. Now I put it in the box and put it far a way and buy something else. Never again in china.
My x98 is been stuck at 0% battery it wont turn on or charge...
I've disassembled the tablet and charged the battery externally, still not working. Any sugestion?
Hello, we have encountered similar problems with the Teclast Air III not turning on. Did you conclude anything?
Larterptx said:
My x98 is been stuck at 0% battery it wont turn on or charge...
I've disassembled the tablet and charged the battery externally, still not working. Any sugestion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
u should cut the red wire in the battery.. wait 5 minutes to reset then again solder the wire..
I encountered the same problem and above solution worked for me
I turned my tablet off last night and plugged the charger in. The tablet already had maybe 60 or 70 percent charge. This morning it wouldn't turn on or charge. I tried the above and desoldered battery etc but no luck. The charger is putting out 5v. The battery only read 0.05v. And when on charge it reads 0.38v. It's my battery dead and needs replacing it is It another problem.
Same problem not turning on after battery fully drained in win8, please help
The advice I found somewhere to check power management on drivers seems to have stopped power drain in standby (windows 10). in particular Sound controller>realtek I2S Audio Codec>Power management>untick "allow device to wake computer"
Now the thing doesn't drain too badly. Before the rapid drain also lead me to the power on issue which I can now 'solve' by getting a charge in before it drains.
Alos, needs at least 2.1amps charger to fire up after draining.
Still get that uncertain feeling as to whether it will turn on or not!, but the last week or so has been fine.
I can confirm the power drain issues. Our Chinese friends made no effort in stabilizing the power line.
I'm using my AIR 3 as a home automation / wall tablet. Because it was unstable as hell I disconnected the the battery-print from the battery, and connected a laptop charger (4.62a) with buck down converter to it. With some tinkering I made Android believe the battery was 100% full and always charging. This made it much stabler, but still every 2 days, it just dies on me. Keep in mind this is a wall tablet, the screen goes off, only wifi is at full-performance wake-lock. So it's doing absolutely nothing, ice-cold to the touch, and still dies in the middle of the night. It's not logging errors anywhere, so I suspect a hardware problem.
Pondering what to do because the tablet is already flush mounted and I would need a different tablet with the exact screen dimensions.
Absolutely no more Teclast for me...
Has anyone modded the Teclast X98 to work without battery. Plugging a cable directly to the battery connection inside?
I see someone used a laptop charger, but I dont have one. Is it possible to use a regular USB charger?
I just bought a new battery and even with it the drain is absurd. This tablet has become unusuable.
Sadly Teclast is absolute garbage
Dear friends....Be careful with this company....their items is totally un- trustworthy..After sales support is terrible, they dont respond to emails messages etc and generally they dont care about their customers....this is not only my opinion, read the XDA forum about teclast products...Too bad for this company. Try to find what you looking for to another brand.....https://forum.xda-developers.com/x98-air/general/teclast-warning-buy-t3161767
I have air 3g model C5J8, It is working quite well, but with 2.5 A power charger when working with both OS's on it, batery is draining, It means that it is impossible to work with tablet longer than 7-8 hrs even with power charger connected, Is it normal in this model?
I tried using the tablet without battery with a 3.1 amp usb charger, but the Air III powerpeaks are to much for it to handle.
Now with a laptop charger of 4.62 amps, it's mich stabler, but it still dies on me...
Teclast = crap. Don't waste your money on it.
Hello forum, this is my first post, so i hope everthing is correct.
Unfortunately my P10 fell down and got a (slightly) cracked frontglass. So i have decided to replace the screen. Everthing went well (except that the new screen is not original, frame color is a bit more cool white, but overall good quality).
Now I face the problem that the (super)charger doesn't work properly anymore. First i have noticed that i dont get that "fast/supercharging" message in lockscreen. Its more like "normal charging" (my phone is set to german - so I am not sure what the right terms are). So I used another original Supercharger, original Cable, old micro-usb cable with usb-c adapter, samsung 2A charger and the app "ampere". The result with all combinations is the same: maximum 900mA charging speed. Seens realistic, bescause phone takes around 3h to get to 100%. "ampere" displays good battery conditions and temperature.
Does somebody know which conditions need to be met to activate fast/supercharging?
Here are my thoughts:
-damaged usb connector (needed a lot of force to get out the display/mainboard unit out of metal back - tried it on this point. not the best idea overall)
-damaged battery (shortening, physical damage because clue was super hard to remove)
-damaged ribbon cables
-software issues(new display, disconnected battery)
-battery calibration due to full disconnecting
Which workaround would you recommend?
By the way, I have flashed my device (monhts ago) from vtr-l09 to vtr-l29 to active dual sim function, i am not sure if this will be a problem if i need a reset.
Thx in advance..
-damaged usb connector (needed a lot of force to get out the display/mainboard unit out of metal back - tried it on this point. not the best idea overall)
-damaged battery (shortening, physical damage because clue was super hard to remove)
there are you answers.