Not sure if anyone noticed this, but i just found out that under the "pro mode", the 10mb jpegs are a tad less sharpening than under the "photo mode" and a bit more natural.
I took two photos same angel in the two modes, and the shutter speed and ISO are the same in the two photos. For focusing, I did not do manual focus but simply let the camera does it thing and hit the shutter button after a few seconds.
Anyone found the same? The only site mentioning about this is photographyblog, but that review seems to talk more about the tweak from AI.
I have noticed the same. That is why I usually take the pictures with manual mode.
I take them on photo mode and edit them afterwards to reduce sharpness.
Call me old fashioned, but I find it easier to reduce sharpness in a sharp detailed image, than to try to sharpen up a crap image such as from an S9.
I am positively surprised by the quality of the 40mp photos in good light though. They just aren't quite as sharp or detailed.
40MP Pro max ISO = 6400, without tripod
40mp (40mp = max ISO is 6400) by Maik Reifschneider, auf Flickr
10MP photo Mode ISO 51.200, without tripod (max ISO 102.400)
photo mode ISO 51.200 by Maik Reifschneider, auf Flickr
night mode ISO 3200
night mode by Maik Reifschneider, auf Flickr
40MP ISO 6400, without tripod
photo mode 40mp (40mp = max ISO is 6400) by Maik Reifschneider, auf Flickr
10MP ISO 102.400 without tripod
photo mode by Maik Reifschneider, auf Flickr
Jonathan-H said:
I take them on photo mode and edit them afterwards to reduce sharpness.
Call me old fashioned, but I find it easier to reduce sharpness in a sharp detailed image, than to try to sharpen up a crap image such as from an S9.
I am positively surprised by the quality of the 40mp photos in good light though. They just aren't quite as sharp or detailed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sharpening of photos are a lossy-action meaning you actually loose detail compared to the original "soft" image as you say. When you then go back to soften the image you take it through another lossy process. This is not an ideal workflow.
I did more testing under different lighting conditions with 10 mb jpegs under photo mode (auto) and pro modes. By looking at the photos at 100%, I noticed that the strong sharpening happens in photo mode when the light source is either very strong or quite dim. The difference is very apparent. But, when the light source is neither too strong or dim, the photos between the two modes are quite comparable, with the pro mode photos still edging out a little less sharpening.
The sharpening kicks in to high drive when there is a warning on "hold steady and sharpening photo" during picture taking. The thing is, the warning comes up randomly? I can't figure out when the software decides to bring that in. Anyone figures this out?
Without owning the device myself (yet) my guess is that the phone decides to apply stronger sharpening based upon how much the user moves during the shot. To compensate for any possible motion and/or shake blur it boosts the sharpening as it will fool most users to still see a sharp photo. But i don't know, can't really tell yet until i have the device in my hands to see exactly in which situations this happens.
/ Magnus
Magnus3D said:
Without owning the device myself (yet) my guess is that the phone decides to apply stronger sharpening based upon how much the user moves during the shot. To compensate for any possible motion and/or shake blur it boosts the sharpening as it will fool most users to still see a sharp photo. But i don't know, can't really tell yet until i have the device in my hands to see exactly in which situations this happens.
/ Magnus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant theory. I'll test that.
photoxd said:
I did more testing under different lighting conditions with 10 mb jpegs under photo mode (auto) and pro modes. By looking at the photos at 100%, I noticed that the strong sharpening happens in photo mode when the light source is either very strong or quite dim. The difference is very apparent. But, when the light source is neither too strong or dim, the photos between the two modes are quite comparable, with the pro mode photos still edging out a little less sharpening.
The sharpening kicks in to high drive when there is a warning on "hold steady and sharpening photo" during picture taking. The thing is, the warning comes up randomly? I can't figure out when the software decides to bring that in. Anyone figures this out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, based on my experience, when the scene you're trying to capture has got large differences in the bright and dark areas (high dynamic range), a sort of auto HDR mode of the camera kicks in and you will get the "Hold steady and sharpening photo" message. If you use PRO mode, the camera will not apply this auto HDR effect. Many people are complaining about this "over-sharpening" but I think it gives a nice effect in certain situations. What is less reliable is when the camera decides to enable this mode. I have been able to "force" this mode at times by touching the area which is brightly lit, this adjusts the exposure of the area selected and sometimes the camera will force this "auto HDR" mode.
Notice the first photo below - "auto hdr" did not kick in and i did not get the "Hold your device steady, sharpening photo" message. Because of the high dynamic range of the scene, the high-rise buildings in the distance are over-exposed.
In the second image, I touched to focus (and expose) the bright buildings in the distance and the camera applied the "auto hdr" producing the "hold steady" message. The high-rise buildings in the distance are then visible and the overall image gets a oversharpened look that many complain about.
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Here are my findings, not only regarding sharpening, but general camera observations. Hopefully we together can find out how camera works and how decides to apply the sharpening and other software tricks.
Photo mode:
- 3x zoom uses tele camera w/OIS, you can see it switches and the image becomes optically stabilized
- as mentioned above, on 1x, whenever you see the message to hold the camera steady, the image will be oversharpened and also some auto HDR will be applied
Pro mode:
- 3x will never use tele lens, but will always use software zoomed wide lens
- oversharpening and HDR will never be applied on 1x zoom
This is really bad UX, as you have to switch from pro to photo mode constantly if you want to use tele mode and not have software destroy wide shots.
I know that there is some great software work behind this, but I still wish there was a way to simply choose the sensor and get the output without any software adjustment: 40MP wide, 8MP tele, 20MP monochrome. In good light, 40MP produces much more detail than downsampled and software altered 10MP.
Spot on with regards to the zoom. Verified because in pro mode and zoomed 3x, the photo info says f1.8 while it says f2.4 in photo mode at 3x zoom. Thanks for the info. Didn't know this.
Ol' Blue Eyes said:
Spot on with regards to the zoom. Verified because in pro mode and zoomed 3x, the photo info says f1.8 while it says f2.4 in photo mode at 3x zoom. Thanks for the info. Didn't know this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, sometimes even in Photo mode it doesn't use tele lens (low light, focusing distance too close), but at least you can see it before taking the photo. Too bad it doesn't work in Pro mode, because Photo mode uses too long exposure (1/20s) so moving objects with tele lens are blurred.
I already contacted Huawei support about this, and asked if tele lens could be enabled in Pro mode, got only generic customer support response.
The hardware has so much potential, images are great, but software needs much improvement.
IMHO, Pro mode should have only 1x and 3x options: 1x results in 40MP image, 3x results in 10MP, that's it.
BTW, one more thing, if you zoom video to 3x (with pinch to zoom) it will also switch to tele lens.
Just discovered that in photo mode, if you change the leica colour mode to either smooth or vivid, the auto hdr never seems come on (no hold your phone steady message) . I haven't tested this extensively yet. Can anyone verify too? Cheers!
Ol' Blue Eyes said:
Just discovered that in photo mode, if you change the leica colour mode to either smooth or vivid, the auto hdr never seems come on (no hold your phone steady message) . I haven't tested this extensively yet. Can anyone verify too? Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes true. And thank God it doesn't trigger the hold steady thing, because in Leica color the over processing is staggering. Can't imagine what it would be if it combined with auto hdr steady crap
Ol' Blue Eyes said:
Just discovered that in photo mode, if you change the leica colour mode to either smooth or vivid, the auto hdr never seems come on (no hold your phone steady message) . I haven't tested this extensively yet. Can anyone verify too? Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did a few indoors tests earlier today against a window. Sharpening and auto HDR fired in normal photo mode and didn't in vivid, smooth or pro (I knew the last one wouldn't of course), so it does indeed seem like you might have stumbled onto something here.
However in these photos the standard auto with HDR and sharpening did actually look better than the others (because of the HDR, definitely could have done without the extra sharpening). So for now I will still feel the need to juggle modes much more often than on my previous couple of Samsung phones. I still feel like the P20 Pro takes exceptional photos in most situations though, it's really just the auto HDR situations that need to be readjusted. Fingers crossed that's going to happen in an update.
Related
We discuss ISOCELL camera technology and new camera features, photos shared on the internet, and Your user photos and videos here.
Features of the Galaxy S5 ISOCELL camera unit:
15.87 MP (5312x2988) 16:9 aspect ratio Samsung BSI ISOCELL sensor
PDAF (phase detection auto focus) for fast auto focus
4k video recording, [email protected]
Live HDR phoro and video preview (Rich Tone available for video)
Software image stabilization
Selective focus
Drama mode
I got my hands on the S5 thx to the guys at XXL GSM, so here's my review:
Since smartphones took over compact cameras as the most popular tool for daily photography, each manufacturer is trying to create it's own camera tech. Sony put the metal wiring behind photo diodes to capture more photons (BSI), HTC introduced the large UltraPixels, and Nokia came up with the large sensor 41MP PureView tech with OIS. Samsung only slightly adjusted it's sensor size (1/2.6") and pixel count (16MP with 1.12um sensor pixels) for it's 5th Galaxy S phone, but with a new sensor manufacturing method, they are introducing higher dynamic range and better color reproduction, in what they call "3D-Backside Illuminated Pixel with Front-Side Deep-Trench Isolation (F-DTI) and Vertical Transfer Gate", or because they're physically isolating pixels to decrease light crosstalk, "ISOCELL". For faster focus they also added a phase detection auto-focus layer (PDAF) delivering ~0.3s focal speed, plus image processing capable of live HDR and HDR video recording. Add sensor-level digital zoom in video, meaning you don't zoom into the 1080p picture anymore but use all the 16MPs, and the S5s new 16:9 sensor delivers a much needed step-up in camera technology.
In good light conditions the S5 rivals any rival phone in snappiness, white balance, color gamut and focal accuracy, also offering healthy amounts of details for print quality images. HDR works seamlessly and sometimes you can't tell it was on, only you realize little to no detail is lost to clipping, it works darn fast too, albeit with some loss of details. Facing directly into sunlight, and dynamic range stays solid without lens issues, color errors or aberrations, and noise levels are kept at a minimal. Jpg compression is slightly above ideal as seen in the smallest details, on the other hand, speeds are excellent, tap-to-focus and tap-to-shot is almost instantaneous, and the app opens and finishes the first shot from cache in about 1.5s, 2,5s from a locked screen. The S5 can take about 7 shots per second in a photo burst (long tap on the photo icon).
Check my full size daylight album with EXIF info here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157643999248563/
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In lower light conditions, as most small sensor smartphones, the S5 is a mixed bag, but an improvement in color reproduction, focal accuracy and snappiness over the S4. Missing are the optical image stabilization (OIS) and longer than 1/17s exposure times (Camera Zoom FX can do 1/10). The Photography app ranges from ISO40 to the very soft ISO2000 shots with manual setup available between ISO100 and ISO800 (Zoom FX does ISO1600 too). In dark conditions, if LED flash not used, you can turn on image stabilization (former night mode) to battle noise, and a multi-exposure of about 3-4 seconds (hold the phone steady) compiles an improved low-light image. HDR works too (with more noise on the sides), and while movement requires stability turned off with higher ISO or flash, optionally Sport Mode, overall I like the accurate color reproduction, which is a problem for many rivals. My biggest criticism besides OIS is the lack of 1/5 1/2 1s and other longer exposure times and manual control for it, at ISO100 with a 1 second exposure the ISOCELL sensor could capture much more details, and since the Lumias have OIS, they are better than the S5 in this category.
Full-size low-light album here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157643997683364/
The S5 works well in macro mode too with tight DOF, full-size shots with EXIF here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157643999323404/
Besides setting up ISO, exposure, white balance, resolutions, timer, voice control etc. from the menu, there are Samsung's various camera MODEs. Selective Focus shoots multiple focal shots of the same subject, and you can later select the preferred focal point - foreground, background or both - algorithm is not perfect. In Shot and more the camera takes a series of images before a fixed background, and allows you to choose Best photo, Best face, Drama mode to record multiple phases of a movement on one image, delete unwanted stuff with Eraser and add motion blur via Panning shot. The Shot and more editing menu comes up after taking the shot, later you can access it from the Studio.
Beauty face lets you play around with skin tones and stuff, Virtual tour is like moving around in Street View: you turn and walk around taking several shots in a house for example, and later revisit it virtually moving around with arrows. Dual shot places both camera images on a single shot, Animated photo creates a gif, Sound and shoot allows you to add a voice comment to your shot and Sport mode uses high ISO and wide focus not to miss any fast movement, have this one on with kids around. There are two Panorama modes, regular 2D one with horizontal movement, and the Nexus-like Surround shot that does 3D photosphere, with some inconsistency. Trick for a good sphere is to hold the camera lens at the same spot and move the phone/yourself around it.
Full gallery here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157644000900844/
The Samsung Gallery is quite advanced app, you get several views of you single images, folders and multi-folders with previews, and Air View helps checking content without tapping on it, hovering over with your fingers. Studio gives you a whole lot of options for editing, besides Photoshop-like functions and manipulations, you can make photo montages, trim videos, render slideshows and edit Shot and more mode photos.
Video recording is a great joy on the S5. Sound is clear (though I made the mistake of covering one of the stereo mics due to hand stabilization), software stabilization is quite usable and HDR is good, as well as recording in 60fps for smooth motion, though these are limited to 1080p resolution maximum. There's fast motion up to 8x and slow motion recording down to 1/8 speed without sound, but the real gem is recording the the marvelous 3840x2160 or 4k resolution, which is 4 times the pixel count of 1080p. Eventually we'll get 4k TVs and monitors, heck, tablets and phones come out with 2k/4MP displays nowadays which is almost there, so why not record in 4k right now? Just check the frame captures I posted below to see the details and low level of mp4 compression, you could print some of these frames. The trade-off is the lack of HDR, stabilization and 60FPS at this resolution, and a 5 minute clip limit since each 60 seconds recorded at 47MBit/s takes up around 350MBs. Yeah... In lower light you obviously lose some of the gorgeous details and noise comes up, but it's still quite nice.
60FPS sample 1: https://app.box.com/s/l5fwiyo0rfsm1wj2q328
60FPS sample 2: https://app.box.com/s/o1vlbzgjcel1pslw9nkv
Single frames: (click)
http://abload.de/img/vlcsnap-2014-04-12-00c0j9q.jpg
http://abload.de/img/vlcsnap-2014-04-17-142fjwg.jpg <--- 4x zoom!
http://abload.de/img/vlcsnap-2014-04-17-146ekni.jpg
http://abload.de/img/vlcsnap-2014-04-12-00aek89.jpg
http://abload.de/img/vlcsnap-2014-04-17-1486j80.jpg
http://abload.de/img/vlcsnap-2014-04-17-14tjk0l.png
http://abload.de/img/vlcsnap-2014-04-17-14lokom.jpg
http://abload.de/img/vlcsnap-2014-04-12-00kyj81.jpg
More frame captures here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157644093280315/
Conclusion
Overall the S5 camera is highly satisfying in this reviewer's option. I did not find a single case when white balance, saturation or exposure was off, operation is fast unless you have stability mode on in low-light, focus and dynamic range definitely improved, and you can choose among many video and photo options. Where's the biggest step forward? In consistency. Out of 10 shots you'll get good ones at a far better rate than before.
Obviously low light is the S5's weaker point, with less light you get softer images and need flash or high ISO to capture movement, but where you lose details to some rivals, you gain color accuracy, so Samsung's ISOCELL is getting there. Next stop should be OIS, but one thing they could do right now: allowing longer than 1/17s exposure times so we can set low ISO value and capture more dark details. Maybe the future Google camera API will open this option. Overall however, I think the shots speak for themselves: the S5 is a very capable shooter with some room for improvement, and you'll be able to pull many print-ready shots over your long usage. Just be aware: as good as the S5 battery is, things like 100% screen brightness and 4k recording kills the 2800mAh quite quickly, bring a spare battery or power bank.
Check the full gallery with EXIF info here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/
Tips and tricks
- Do multiple shots of the same subject, a good momentum or less handshake can later be selected out of the many
- HDR is one tap away, so do one with and without it, some shots look better with high contrast, others benefit from HDR
- In low light with movement, you have to use LED flash without stability, cause high ISO and longer shutter will not capture these moments with good detail
- In low light with stationary subject however, use stability, optionally LED, no HDR cause of noise. With enough lights you may try using ISO800 with darker results but more details. Much will depend on the amount of available light
- use voice commands to avoid tap-shake, hold the phone steady with two hands, optionally use a monopod
- try and use the photo Modes, some will do fancy images, others come handy like Sport mode to capture fast movement
- between Panorama and Surround Shot, I prefer the latter, cause it captures surroundings vertically too, so result won't be an overly wide image. The trick with photospheres is to not be close to the surrounding objects and have the camera lens in the absolute middle in space, and move the phone and yourself around that spot as the take the sphere images
- try alternative apps if they are better for you: CameraZoom FX, Focal, Google Camera etc. Camera Zoom FX allows 1/10 exposure and ISO1600 manually
- be aware not to cover the top and bottom microphones during video shoot. Best image quality comes from 4k, but image stabilization, 60FPS or HDR only works with 1080p, again best to test all these and later use the one best suited for you or the scene
- use AirView in Gallery, and try out Studio options for your recordings
- bring a power bank with longer photography tours cause a lot of camera usage and 100% brightness eats the battery quickly
Let's analyze! The first two striking qualities of the ISOCELL samples are: 1) eye popping wide dynamic range with rich colors, and 2) relative high noise and softness of the picture. I guess that's the tradeoff here.
Saturation is quite high yet not unrealistic, it simply looks to capture a wide color range, especially impressive in the Angry Birds photo inside. White balance is spot on. As far as Rich Tone (HDR) shots goes, it's pretty impressive as well, look how much more detail is presented without overprocessing the image. On the other hand, noise and softness is always present on these shots, even at low ISO, PureView and Exmor technology seems well ahead in per pixel sharpness. More to come.
men.. you are sure that it photo's from SGS5 ?
Pako7 said:
men.. you are sure that it photo's from SGS5 ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. :good:
BTW, it appears that selective focus takes 4 photos or at least renders 4 photos, as samples played around with that setting have ~16MB size instead of the regular 4. So I guess the file can be shared and focus changed afterwards, wouldn't mind Google+ and other services allowing you to choose focus after upload.
BoneXDA said:
Yup. :good:
BTW, it appears that selective focus takes 4 photos or at least renders 4 photos, as samples played around with that setting have ~16MB size instead of the regular 4. So I guess the file can be shared and focus changed afterwards, wouldn't mind Google+ and other services allowing you to choose focus after upload.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
but why you delete all info? including EXIF.. It's not secret
Again its not isocell ( probably they saving it for Note 4 or GS6 )
no new flash ( same old led flash )
indoors photos still look like oil paint -->> no OIS indoors and low light images will suck
overall i think it will be like most of Galaxy flagships : great images when there is enough light but when there is not the image will suck
I think it is ISOCELL technology, the photos on PhoneArena are really not bad at and higher 5s z1.
yahyoh said:
Again its not isocell ( probably they saving it for Note 4 or GS6 )
no new flash ( same old led flash )
indoors photos still look like oil paint -->> no OIS indoors and low light images will suck
overall i think it will be like most of Galaxy flagships : great images when there is enough light but when there is not the image will suck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is the 16MP ISOCELL sensor they developed.
Pako7 said:
but why you delete all info? including EXIF.. It's not secret
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, sorry about EXIF, I think that's the upload site doing, not sure why.
BoneXDA said:
Oh, sorry about EXIF, I think that's the upload site doing, not sure why.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please re-upload a few full shot on other fileshare
These are apparently the official Samsung Galaxy S5 samples, normal vs. HDR
source, full size: http://www.mobile-review.com/articles/2014/mwc-samsung-galaxy-s5.shtml
Skander1998 said:
It is the 16MP ISOCELL sensor they developed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why they didn't mention anything about it in the unpacking event ? even the official spec didnt say anything about isocell
all i can see some news writers bs
yahyoh said:
why they didn't mention anything about it in the unpacking event ? even the official spec didnt say anything about isocell
all i can see some news writers bs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They just started mass production for the 16MP ISOCELL sensor.
http://global.samsungtomorrow.com/?p=34630
The article also mentions the new octa for the octa variant for the S5, also beginning mass production.
Samsung doesn't mention specific hardware specs anymore.
4k video sample in dim light:
yahyoh said:
why they didn't mention anything about it in the unpacking event ? even the official spec didnt say anything about isocell
all i can see some news writers bs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because Samsung never EVER goes technical about sensor tech, check their track record, they don't.
It is a vastly different sensor to the Exmors however, closer to Samsung own's Galaxy Cameras (softness of image, noise), but far superior in color balance and dynamic range, which is exactly what ISOCELL is all about. Add that announcers did show off new camera HW features and Android Authority claims ISOCELL was confirmed to them, so it's almost certainly that tech.
So where do you get your information that it isn't?
BoneXDA said:
All right, new stills from GSM Arena, normal vs. rich tone (HDR), direct linking so EXIF info should be included. Level of details don't justify 16MPs, but color reproduction and HDR quality is quite awesome!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but I saw this "photo".. It's not include full EXIF (view software version - Adobe Photoshop Ligthroom )
Pako7 said:
Thanks, but I saw this "photo".. It's not include full EXIF (view software version - Adobe Photoshop Ligthroom )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use this site, just copy image link:
http://regex.info/exif.cgi?
BoneXDA said:
Use this site, just copy image link:
http://regex.info/exif.cgi?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm.. you don't understand
I know how will view full_exif. Full EXIF will be for example such as (sorry by russian lang)
Pako7 said:
hmm.. you don't understand
I know how will view full_exif. Full EXIF will be for example such as (sorry by russian lang)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure I understand you.
GSM Arena samples show EXIF info just fine.
BoneXDA said:
I'm not sure I understand you.
GSM Arena samples show EXIF info just fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok..
ps.. View snapshots from gsmarena, I found that on MWC_devices used camera modules :
16 Mp
ISP - Qualcomm
Sensor manufacturer - Samsung LSI
Release date - January 2014
Manufacturer of the module - is not yet known
BoneXDA said:
I'm not sure I understand you.
GSM Arena samples show EXIF info just fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what he means, the S4 pic shows which fw the device was running, while the S5 pic shows Photoshop.
Hello,
I recently bought a Sony Xperia Z1 and I have a thing I wanted to know, not sure if it's a problem.
When I try to take shots at night, before I press the shutter button the whole image looks very grainy. When I actually take the shot it comes out ok.
What it bothers me is that it's a big difference in quality between what appears on the screen before I take the shot and the actual picture which is ok. Is that normal?
Thank you very munch in advance.
Hope I made myself clear.
Yes this is normal in every phone. Not only the back camera, even the front works the same way
Thanks for your response!
Z1's camera does not perform well in low light photography
andreighi said:
Hello,
I recently bought a Sony Xperia Z1 and I have a thing I wanted to know, not sure if it's a problem.
When I try to take shots at night, before I press the shutter button the whole image looks very grainy. When I actually take the shot it comes out ok.
What it bothers me is that it's a big difference in quality between what appears on the screen before I take the shot and the actual picture which is ok. Is that normal?
Thank you very munch in advance.
Hope I made myself clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The viewfinder gives you at least 30 frames per second, so each 'image' that is shown in the viewfinder will have at most a shutter speed of 1/30th of a second (or in superior auto mode more like 1/60). However, if you take the actual photo, you may end up with an image with a slower shutter speed. To make sure the viewfinder can give you 30 images per second, the ISO is increased (increasing the noise in those images) for the viewfinder frames so that the shutter speed can actually get to 1/30th of a second. After all, what you see in the viewfinder is basically 30 pictures per second.
So when you take a photo that appears less noisy than the viewfinder images, you can already guess that the shutter speed is probably lower than 1/30th of a second.
ron76426 said:
Z1's camera does not perform well in low light photography
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Herp derp. Z1 is top class regarding low light either manual or auto though manual is better depding on how light strength.
Stocka camera app, manual, ISO 100, shutter speed 1/8 and stock camera app manual, 'Night scene' mode.
---------- Post added at 04:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:00 AM ----------
[/COLOR]
Hermantje said:
The viewfinder gives you at least 30 frames per second, so each 'image' that is shown in the viewfinder will have at most a shutter speed of 1/30th of a second (or in superior auto mode more like 1/60). However, if you take the actual photo, you may end up with an image with a slower shutter speed. To make sure the viewfinder can give you 30 images per second, the ISO is increased (increasing the noise in those images) for the viewfinder frames so that the shutter speed can actually get to 1/30th of a second. After all, what you see in the viewfinder is basically 30 pictures per second.
So when you take a photo that appears less noisy than the viewfinder images, you can already guess that the shutter speed is probably lower than 1/30th of a second.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This and also after the photo is taken post proccess algorithms are applied reducing noise and more.
EQ2000 said:
Herp derp. Z1 is top class regarding low light either manual or auto though manual is better depding on how light strength.
Stocka camera app, manual, ISO 100, shutter speed 1/8 and stock camera app manual, 'Night scene' mode.
---------- Post added at 04:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:00 AM ----------
[/COLOR]
This and also after the photo is taken post proccess algorithms are applied reducing noise and more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Z1 has one of the best camera till date but still it lacks in low light photography..
I'hv been using z1 since it was launched and done taking most type of pictures
At night i was capturing a pic from a plan of a city while landing and it didn't capture well..the pic had green tint
But following updates made the camera much better but it still needs to improve in low light
ron76426 said:
Z1 has one of the best camera till date but still it lacks in low light photography..
I'hv been using z1 since it was launched and done taking most type of pictures
At night i was capturing a pic from a plan of a city while landing and it didn't capture well..the pic had green tint
But following updates made the camera much better but it still needs to improve in low light
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well all phone cameras lack in low light if you compare to high-end DSLR. But night time is the forte of the Xperia Z1+ series. No other phone even comes near regarding being able to do such high ISO while keeping decent photo quality in such harsh extreme low light situations in photo or video recording. Also as you go up with ISO the scene colors will dictate a lot. If you had green tint it means the dominating scene light was green and/or the surfaces where green like grass and so on. For example like the green lights reflecting on the window at night while you captured the photo (if you where in the plane when landing). Green hue will be visible and the high ISO will make it look like "night vision" mode. And long exposures is out of the question for such scene as you described as you are in movement and so is the plane which would result in a blurry trail mess else night scene mode or portrait mode would have given a detailed nicely lit photo at low ISO. The S6/Note 5 or G4 would fail miserably in such extreme situation.
Stock camera app (Lollipop 5.1.1, no unlocked bootlader, DRM present). First photo is to show how it looks IRL (1/8, ISO 400). Second is 1/8, ISO 2500. Third is same as first but different angle and 4th photo is 1/8, ISO 4000. I didn't even hit the max of 6400 which lits up way more. So low light capabilities of the Z1 either in night mode, portrait mode or high ISO is beyond the competition on the mobile phone arena. Heck even in lower ISO it is at the top segment!
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Stock camera..the picture did not come well..could have come better
It is noisy and thats because of the big size of z1's camera consor
Check z2 or z5 camera test samples..those cameras are improved
How long have you been using z1!?
ron76426 said:
Stock camera..the picture did not come well..could have come better
It is noisy and thats because of the big size of z1's camera consor
Check z2 or z5 camera test samples..those cameras are improved
How long have you been using z1!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Z2 and Z3 uses same IMX220 camera module. Z5 has some software that needs to be tuned but obviously better camera hardware. Your photo looks horrible. Tons of smearing, out-of-focus and movement blur. Might want to check your camera for decentered lens or scratched/greasy lens cover as something is wrong with your camera considering you even got decent night lighting around you there. Quite some time.
---------- Post added at 05:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:26 AM ----------
Also try out ProCapture camera app for night scenes if you want 'night mode' and 'portrait mode' at 21MP.
First one is stock camera app in SA mode. 1/8 and ISO 6400. Extremly dark environment.
Second one is with ProCapture camera app in 'night mode' at 21MP. 0.8, ISO 100. Night time at city, near pitch black sky.
Third one is stock camera app in manual at 21MP, ISO set to 100. 1/8, ISO 100. Night time city with very dark overcast sky.
I think mine is defective? Try this test:
[(x2 Camera) (x1 Camera) (HR Sensor+Flash) (Fingerprint Sensor)]
Cover the x2 optical zoom camera with a piece of paper, tape, or your finger
Press the x2 Optical Zoom button on the camera app
Press the x1 Optical Zoom button on the camera app
Toggle back and forth between the two
What happens?
As a control, try the test again but in reverse:
Now, cover the x1 camera with a piece of paper, tape, or your finger
Press the x2 optical zoom button on the camera app
Press the x1 Optical Zoom button on the camera app
Toggle back and forth between the two
What happens?
So, here's what happened with my camera.
TEST 1 - x2 Optical Zoom Camera covered: No obstruction of image in x1 optical zoom mode and x2 optical zoom mode.
TEST 2 - x1 Optical Zoom Camera covered: Yes obstruction of image in x1 optical zoom mode and x2 optical zoom mode.
CONCLUSION: My x2 optical zoom camera is defective and does not engage when the x2 optical zoom button is pressed, instead the camera defaults to x2 DIGITAL ZOOM using the x1 camera. I think my phone might be a lemon but I wanted to see if others have this problem too?
There is like four or five threads on this topic, explaining this in detail and BTW I think it works the same as iphone and no, it's not defective.
pete4k said:
There is like four or five threads on this topic, explaining this in detail and BTW I think it works the same as iphone and no, it's not defective.
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I couldn't find any.
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https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-note-8/help/feel-kinda-lied-to-camera-t3678220
https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-note-8/how-to/2x-zoom-camera-optical-zoom-t3681342
https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-note-8/help/optical-zoom-auto-mode-t3677214
https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-note-8/help/cameras-2x-button-digital-zoom-optical-t3675508
The wide/main lens has better low light image quality than the telephoto lens (f1.7 aperture and 1/2.55" sensor for the main and f2.4 aperture and 1/3.6" sensor for the zoom). When taking a picture outdoors, the scene is bright enough that the telephoto lens will be used when you click on the x2 icon. If you take the picture indoors, even with artificial light, the phone sees the you get a better picture from the main lens so it uses that instead, and then crops the picture to get the zoom effect.
Look at the pictures attached. That's the same shot from the main and zoom lens. In low light, the zoom lens has worse image quality, with increased graininess from pumping up the ISO and a lot more blur from having to keep the shutter open longer to get more light in
You can try it yourself. Open the camera, aim it at a well-lighted scene (usually outdoors). Tap the x2, THEN cover the main lens and the viewfinder still shows the uncovered view.
Yeah mine "doesn't work " either.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
And for the record, this is not how the iPhone I tested worked. 7plus. In my office where light is moderate but not great, the note used the main lens and the iPhone used the telephoto. If you want to force it to use the 2x, then choose live focus. Which has no other choice.
harveydent said:
The wide/main lens has better low light image quality than the telephoto lens (f1.7 aperture and 1/2.55" sensor for the main and f2.4 aperture and 1/3.6" sensor for the zoom). When taking a picture outdoors, the scene is bright enough that the telephoto lens will be used when you click on the x2 icon. If you take the picture indoors, even with artificial light, the phone sees the you get a better picture from the main lens so it uses that instead, and then crops the picture to get the zoom effect.
Look at the pictures attached. That's the same shot from the main and zoom lens. In low light, the zoom lens has worse image quality, with increased graininess from pumping up the ISO and a lot more blur from having to keep the shutter open longer to get more light in
You can try it yourself. Open the camera, aim it at a well-lighted scene (usually outdoors). Tap the x2, THEN cover the main lens and the viewfinder still shows the uncovered view.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if this is the case then you should also show the reverse, as in what it looks like in good lighting situations and not just low light.
because with your example you're just repeating the problem but are not actually showing a solution or showing that there's nothing wrong with his lens. ie: you're not really proving anything.
i'm actually not that invested but just saying if you're going to prove something at least just try to do a complete job. nothing wrong with that, right?
Notasaurus said:
And for the record, this is not how the iPhone I tested worked. 7plus. In my office where light is moderate but not great, the note used the main lens and the iPhone used the telephoto. If you want to force it to use the 2x, then choose live focus. Which has no other choice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually it does work similar way:
https://www.macworld.com/article/31...d-of-optical-more-often-than-youd-expect.html
They will never be exactly the same, since they have different hardware, different logic etc. but for the purpose of this topic in low light they will both use digital zoom, instead of optical zoom, albeit at different threshold point.
the 2x lense works on the live focus.
yes it works fine on the live focus. your camera isnt broken. I tried it myself yesterday.
when the x2 lens is covered just a little bit it switches to the main camera and zooms in digitally.
when you then remove your finger from the x2 lens it switches back to that one almost immediately. you can barely notice it but i played with it yesterday because this post was driving me nuts!
lennie said:
if this is the case then you should also show the reverse, as in what it looks like in good lighting situations and not just low light.
because with your example you're just repeating the problem but are not actually showing a solution or showing that there's nothing wrong with his lens. ie: you're not really proving anything.
i'm actually not that invested but just saying if you're going to prove something at least just try to do a complete job. nothing wrong with that, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The pictures are to demonstrate that the zoom lens takes worse pictures in low light, since most people expect that the cameras are identical except for focal length ("zoom factor"). I really didn't go good light examples since that's essentially the phone working as expected, and people have already seen millions of examples of that. So here's the 1x and 2x pictures in good light... I guess?
harveydent said:
The pictures are to demonstrate that the zoom lens takes worse pictures in low light, since most people expect that the cameras are identical except for focal length ("zoom factor"). I really didn't go good light examples since that's essentially the phone working as expected, and people have already seen millions of examples of that. So here's the 1x and 2x pictures in good light... I guess?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really dumb question , is there a sure fire way for me to see if my X2 zoom being used is optical or not?
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Is there a way (or an app) to force the use of tele lens camera on the samsung note 8?
Working fine here if you block it will default to one camera as it detect issue if you toggle 1 and 2x it will re enable the other camera also if you just open camera app without blocking any camera both work as they should.
IDK if this is with new update but It also tells you when camera one is blocked and if you block camera 2 it says not enough light.
Again with this? If you cover the tele lens it thinks it is dark and ceases to function, plain and simple
It seems some camera options are not very well documented. Thought I would start a thread to share tricks to help improve photos. There is another thread for tips and tricks but that one focuses on other things. Since camera is one of the highlights of this phone I figured a dedicated thread was worth it.
Here are a few I found. Feel free to share yours!
1. When tapping to focus on a point, if you do a long touch instead, it will set a focus point but add a second movable frame for exposure so you can have an exposure point that is not your focus point (IE focus on someone but expose for highlights)
2. If short tapping to focus, you can then tap/drag the focus point up or down to adjust exposure level (exposure compensation).
3. From my early tests, it looks like the camera hdr is better at recovering shadows instead of highlights. When having high contrast scene, change exposure so the highlights are better exposed when looking at picture frame. Shadow details will come out better (don't over exaggerate this or shadows will remain too dark). Adjusting exposure for shadows never seem to recover highlights properly.
4. I've seen some reviews where pixel 3 has a better exposure using their night scene function. If the mate night function yeilds results too dark, you can force the time and Iso to use (tap the icons in bottom left and right). So far I found that if I look at the picture info and see the auto mode exposed say 4 sec with Iso 400, usually keeping 4 sec but doubling Iso (800 in that case), will produce a better exposure similar to the pixel. I don't want to get into color/detail comparison between the 2 devices.. This is just to get a better exposure. Guessing they'll sort this out in a future update.
For now that's what I found that didn't feel intuitive.
Please share your findings!
Let me share my suggestions:
1. In case of pro mode ,shutter speed is restricted to 30s of exposure whereas night mode can give up to 52s (max I have seen) exposure.
2. You can try different light painting modes to achieve low-light shots as well. I tried with star trails and got good results ( but exposure gets throttled and(or) locked at some point.
3. in Pro mode, If you are taking low-light snaps in an enclosed area such that your flashlight can reach, then you will get very good photos for reasonably smaller exposure times.
4. Use tripods for all night shots (bluetooth trigger will make it even better), don't rely on stabilization unless there is ample light and that exposure time will be around 1/125 , because even night mode can be affected despite the claim that OIS stabilization will be sufficient.
5. lowering the exposure while taking close-up flash photography will help in partially retaining data that would have been lost due to flash overexposure.
Thanks,
Rakesh
Hi, I noticed today that when I take photos with 1x, it seems like lack of focus.
With wide camera, 3x, and 10x, the results are fine and sharp. Just the main 1x is the problem.
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Anyone has this issue? Any idea how to fix it?
Things I have done:
- factory reset, clear camera cache.
I am running One UI 4 Beta 1.
Samsung S21 Ultra Snapdragon 5G
Shaky hands?
babyboy3265 said:
Shaky hands?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so, if it's the case, the pro mode will also produce blurry one. It only happens with indoor photo.
I have turned off scene optimizer & focus enhancer as well.
You may have a too dark room to take photos
tessut said:
You may have a too dark room to take photos
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's 12 PM and the light is everywhere. Not sure why the pro mode and 4:3 did better details tho?
Do you think my unit is faulty? Did factory reset and still the same
Brace the phone to eliminate cam shake.
Make sure it's getting a AF lock.
Where you too close?
Compare the shooting settings from the pro vs photo auto whatever mode in the photos exif data.
Not every shot is a keeper...
blackhawk said:
Brace the phone to eliminate cam shake.
Make sure it's getting a AF lock.
Where you too close?
Compare the shooting settings from the pro vs photo auto whatever mode in the photos exif data.
Not every shot is a keeper...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure. I see a similar thread below talking about the same thing.
Short story he got his phone repaired by Samsung.
Issue with focus on camera 1.0x
Hello ! This weekend , i find an issue on my S21 ultra.. With the 1.0x camera , the back of the photo is always blurry... With 3.0x or 0.6x no problem ! I try to touch my screen for the focus but same problem... my mother have the same phone and...
forum.xda-developers.com
Sky33 said:
Not sure. I see a similar thread below talking about the same thing.
Short story he got his phone repaired by Samsung.
Issue with focus on camera 1.0x
Hello ! This weekend , i find an issue on my S21 ultra.. With the 1.0x camera , the back of the photo is always blurry... With 3.0x or 0.6x no problem ! I try to touch my screen for the focus but same problem... my mother have the same phone and...
forum.xda-developers.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.
blackhawk said:
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is okay now. I switched the full resolution and format my phone. I'll let you know if it happens again
Sky33 said:
I think it is okay now. I switched the full resolution and format my phone. I'll let you know if it happens again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
blackhawk said:
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. It happens again.
Hmm there are actually people also having this problem.
S21 ultra 5g 1x camera auto focus issue.
So I'm on vacation in Arizona and was trying to take photos at the grand canyon. Normal 1x camera is stuck won't focus, pictures come out blurry. All other camera lenses work great. What is the problem, spent a lot of money on this phone for the camera and when I need it, it doesn't work...
us.community.samsung.com
What's the resolution of the resulting photos? That doesn't look like blur, but more like low resolution.
daniel_loft said:
What's the resolution of the resulting photos? That doesn't look like blur, but more like low resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just took the full resolution, they are 1800x4000.
The only difference is the main camera is blurry, while the other cameras work well, sharp fine photos
Even if you put your phone in one spot and you are not holding it in your hands the photos from the main cam still come up blurry?
@Sky33 what you are sharing there are screenshots which is not ideal. In order to clear the situation up let's do the following:
0. Disable location saving in the camera app.
1. Pick a well lit scene (at least as lit as a cloudy mid day) with a well defined object (the sky or a wall won't do) that is at least 2 m from your phone. Most of the times indoor lighting is not enough, except maybe for a very bright kitchen light.
2. Place your phone on an object (preferably on a tripod) or make you're holding it very still (you have to be in a confortabile position yourself).
3. Frame the photo with the above object close to the middle and force the camera to focus on it by tapping the screen on the object.
4. Take a picture with the auto mode.
5. Switch to pro mode and repeat points 3 and 4. Be careful to have approximately the same framing.
6. Upload the original photos to a file sharing service (Google Drive, One Drive, mega.nz, etc.) and share them here. Do not use a photo sharing service as that might compress the pictures. Do not remove any EXIF data from the pictures.
In case I wasn't clear enough please point it out. I'm not in the best environment to write.
Let's see what comes out.
daniel_loft said:
@Sky33 what you are sharing there are screenshots which is not ideal. In order to clear the situation up let's do the following:
0. Disable location saving in the camera app.
1. Pick a well lit scene (at least as lit as a cloudy mid day) with a well defined object (the sky or a wall won't do) that is at least 2 m from your phone. Most of the times indoor lighting is not enough, except maybe for a very bright kitchen light.
2. Place your phone on an object (preferably on a tripod) or make you're holding it very still (you have to be in a confortabile position yourself).
3. Frame the photo with the above object close to the middle and force the camera to focus on it by tapping the screen on the object.
4. Take a picture with the auto mode.
5. Switch to pro mode and repeat points 3 and 4. Be careful to have approximately the same framing.
6. Upload the original photos to a file sharing service (Google Drive, One Drive, mega.nz, etc.) and share them here. Do not use a photo sharing service as that might compress the pictures. Do not remove any EXIF data from the pictures.
In case I wasn't clear enough please point it out. I'm not in the best environment to write.
Let's see what comes out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Take into account the differences in iso, shutter speed, exposure and AF point between the 2 modes.
On my N10+ I will use manual mode when automated mode fails. Usually because of an AF lockon issues.
These micro lense systems have no adjustable aperture so no aperture priority mode, the most useful mode to have when shooting.
That sucks.
blackhawk said:
Take into account the differences in iso, shutter speed, exposure and AF point between the 2 modes.
On my N10+ I will use manual mode when automated mode fails. Usually because of an AF lockon issues.
These micro lense systems have no adjustable aperture so no aperture priority mode, the most useful mode to have when shooting.
That sucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I came from N10+ and didn't have this issue. Usually just open camera, point, and shoot, and will definitely get those fine results.
I guess this is a new normal for me :/
Sky33 said:
I came from N10+ and didn't have this issue. Usually just open camera, point, and shoot, and will definitely get those fine results.
I guess this is a new normal for me :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Return it if not happy.
If anything it should be better than the 10+'s AF.
I got a second new N10+ 2 weeks ago because both Samsung latest and Android 11 didn't thrill me.
Sky33 said:
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is peculiar. Have you a different photo app?
Sky33 said:
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for my late response but I've been rather busy lately.
I kept on looking at the two sets of pictures and I must say there are some interesting things happening there. I assumed that the objects in focus are the boxes of Crunchies and the chair on the grass, respectively. I took a look at the EXIF data and it might explain a lot.
Indoor picture:
Auto: The blur seems to be caused by movement. If the exposure time is correct (1 s) than it is very much explainable. I'm not sure how capable Samsung's OIS is, but from my experience 4 stops is what OIS would compensate for and there are approx 5 stops (1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1) between pro and auto exposure times.
Pro: The exposure time is just about right for a clear shot (1/50 sec). The exposure seems to be calculated differently, for whatever reason.
Outdoor picture:
Auto: Same as before, there is a 1 sec exposure time.
Pro: The photo seems to be more sharpened in pro mode.
I would recommend you wipe the cache of the camera app and try again. If the results are not improving then try wiping the data of the camera app. If things are still blurry, call Samsung service center. There is a possibility that your camera module is not properly calibrated.