Does anyone know of a good way to remove the battery when tabs on the adhesive tape are broken?
I tried heating the phone, but the way the internals are designed is such that I don't have much leverage to pry the battery out. I didn't dare to use more force because I'm worried about puncturing the battery.
Force is the only way. Try to get two credit cards or something that you can push a bit further in and "cut" the adhesive from the battery. I had to do the same thing, it didn't puncture for me.
use something thin and solid like credit card or licence card, maybe u can use guitar pick too, but yeah, force the only way to remove battery.
Try from the right side where there is a gap and bottom as well. Plenty of youtube videos on how to do it.
I can confirm that brute force works ?️
I found that the tape was slightly weaker at the top right corner, and started prying from there.
My old battery is now curved into almost a C shape. It was pretty scary, especially since I watched all the punctured batteries burn on YouTube.
Related
Got out of the truck this morning and heard a clink and saw my stylus had fallen to the ground. I picked it up and noticed its not staying in anymore. Used to be some kind of friction holding it in, but now any movement and the stylus starts to slide out.
Before I try tape, has anyone had this before? I've checked one other mogul and I don't see anything missing, but did narrow it to my phone chassis.
Same Here
I got the same prob. So i put a piece of electrical tape on the end of the stylus, Not the point part the other part. Just put a little square on it.
It fit by actually being a fraction bigger than the hole u just shoved it up to hold it but after a while of putting the stylus in and out the heat will eventually morph it making it a bit smaller sliding it out and the cap well that basically just kept it up! My sister actually bit hers off i would try addidng something to the tip of the stylus like elctrical tape as stated above.
I used to have a hell of a time keeping stylii in my 6700. The eventual cure for the 6700 was to bend the stylus ever so slightly. Have you tried that?
Stylus fix..
Hey every-1 had the same problem till i stuck a piece of paper inside slot so when stylus goes in it gives it a tighter squeeze..but if you take off battery cover you should be able to see where the looseness is coming from...
Why not buy a third-party stylus replacement (found quite a few that fit the Mogul) that also have a pen?
Do a google search. Seidio offers one just not in 3-packs.
I've been using my Touch Diamond for a couple of days now, and just read about the lens protector that apparently needs to be removed in order to take decent pictures.
Now I find, that it is impossible for me to remove the back cover!! I tried all sort of ways of pressing and sliding, but now I'm afraid to damage the device by using too much force...
Have any of you guys have similar problems?
Does have something to do with the heat build-up from the battery the expands the plastic cover?
Clean the back side so you have friction, and push UP. Should work. Just did it
pedmond said:
Clean the back side so you have friction, and push UP. Should work. Just did it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That worked! You are GOLD, thanks.
Or you could throw it really hard towards the floor. Should also work...
I'm sorry, I couldn't resist
this has to be one of toughest problems ever to be resolved here!
a hammer would have helped...
I find taking the stylus out and pushing from that corner the easiest way. Its a bit of a pain to get off if you have greasy hands!!
this sounds disgusting. it sounds like his phone is submersed in oil and he needs to wash it to remove the cover =\
i also heard if you rub the diamond against your head several times then place it against a wall...it will stick..like a balloon.
now you try =\
Dude, WTF, you're a puss. You couldnt get the back cover on the phone open?
Clicky-clicky!
As you know by now, I managed to get the back cover off (...), but now I'm anoyed by a clicky-clicky unstability on the back - along the right side just above where it says "HTC innovation". It seems there too much room (or something) just under that spot.
Anyone else experiencing this?
zyborg said:
As you know by now, I managed to get the back cover off (...), but now I'm anoyed by a clicky-clicky unstability on the back - along the right side just above where it says "HTC innovation". It seems there too much room (or something) just under that spot.
Anyone else experiencing this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Diamond has a very solid feel, so I'm afraid I can't help you there. Just to make sure: are you certain the back cover is well inserted?
Trust me, I have (tried to make sure that it's properly inserted). I'm now considering sticking some aluminum foil in there - as this should also act as a heat sink (I'm also experiencing intense heat from the processor when WiFi is turned on for more than 5 minutes).
Maybe then the foil will also fill out that extra space, I don't know.
In general, I think that the back cover is VERY poor quality and really needs to be redone/redesigned. The diamond shapes on the back is a mess, as the device rocks back and forth when you have it on a completely flat surface (like a table) and operate the screen/buttons. It should be made with a completely flush back and a more sturdy plastic material (thicker, at least). Don't you think?
zyborg said:
Trust me, I have (tried to make sure that it's properly inserted). I'm now considering sticking some aluminum foil in there - as this should also act as a heat sink (I'm also experiencing intense heat from the processor when WiFi is turned on for more than 5 minutes).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably a bad idea. Sure aluminium might transfer heat well, but it also transfers electricity very well.
If yours is asloose as you say there's the risk of it moving and making Sony-style exploding battery fireworks.
What if the foil just sits in the bottom part and doesn't come into contact with the battery? Does that still present a risk?
mr_Ray said:
Probably a bad idea. Sure aluminium might transfer heat well, but it also transfers electricity very well.
If yours is asloose as you say there's the risk of it moving and making Sony-style exploding battery fireworks.
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Click to collapse
zyborg said:
What if the foil just sits in the bottom part and doesn't come into contact with the battery? Does that still present a risk?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have a Diamond yet to answer that properly. It was just a general warning about putting metal foil in electronics. If you can see ANY way for it to move from where you put it to any other component or connector - don't do it. And that includes small parts of foil that may flake off from rubbing when the case moves (which is exactly what you're trying to stop, soit's potentially an issue).
I'd not risk it myself, but you probably wouldn't die. Probably. Much.
By the way, I tested the aluminum foil, and it worked well to remove the clicky-clicky sensation/sound, but I quickly removed it again after reading the warning above.
Can anyone suggest an alternative material to fill the gap?
zyborg said:
As you know by now, I managed to get the back cover off (...), but now I'm anoyed by a clicky-clicky unstability on the back - along the right side just above where it says "HTC innovation". It seems there too much room (or something) just under that spot.
Anyone else experiencing this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes on two different Diamonds, poor design, or design flaw.
Clicky-clicky has gone bye-bye!
I found another solution:
Cut a business card (not too thick) in half and place it over the battery on the inside of the back cover. Slide the back cover back on. No more clicky-clicky!
Today i spent what seemed like an hour attempting to remove the battery cover on my touch pro and FINALLY did it! I wonder why HTC made it so difficult. To fix the creaking problem, i just put some strips of tape on my battery cover and that stopped the problem
So here it is! (Pics below!)
After a couple of days of refinement I am quite proud to share my Defender extended battery mod
The reasons for doing this are obvious enough I guess...I love my Defender but i also want maximum battery power! so after some time wondering if i dare do it, I went for it and I'm pleased with the results.
I decided early on, that with the Defender backing in place there is little need for another backing inside as long as the extension part is not too big the battery should be held in place quite nicely.
Firstly here is what i used for the Mod:
http://www.superetrader.co.uk/htc-hd2-extended-battery-2400mah-high-csht8585xl-p-11745.html
I used this battery, firstly cos its cheap but secondly because i think its a little thinner than the official one (could be wrong, mostly the cheap part) the battery is suprisingly good quality but the cover that came with it didnt even fit properly to start with so i didnt mind cutting it up.
A Dremel with a circular saw blade
Milliput Epoxy putty
Super Glue
Polyurathane sealant
Epoxy Rapid set glue
I wish i had taken step by step photos for you guys but I was so busy trying Not to screw up my case beyond repair i only thought of it afterwards!
Method
First of all the use the battery to mark out the hole in the back of the case,
Then using the dremel cut the hole going to the outside of the line to give about 1mm clearance all round.
The next step is to modify the cover that came with my battery , this whole process was a little fiddly and takes some careful measuring...basically it needs to fit the hole I just made; cut one end down to the same length and then put the defender backing on with the new battery installed to get the height of the of the battery that is now poking out!
So with some cutting and sanding get the cover to the right size, and glue onto the case (with the open end at the camera lens end) with the super glue.
Now on the inside is where i applied the epoxy putty, maybe its not esencial but I figured it added some strength.
You will need to cut a small additional strip for the open end ...its easier tocut a small strip slightly taller than is needed then trim it down after it has been glued into place. Fill any gaps from the inside with putty.
Carefully measure the new hump and then cut the rubber of the defender backing to fit as closly as possible around it.
Once happy with all this CHECK the back now fits on with the battery in place before going any further!
If it fits ok and your happy mix up a small amount of epoxy glue and very carefully apply to the outside; where the hump meets the back and apply a small fillet around all the edges this is gonna make the whole thing much stronger than just using superglue.
The next thing I did was to glue the offcut of rubber backing onto the new hump, I guess this is optional but i figured it would give the finished piece a more pro look
Anyway, after a couple of days I decided to use the polyurathane sealer to seal it all up round the edge and to stop the rubber peeling...
So here are the pics: again sorry i didnt take any step-by-step's, hope you like it cos I do.
The last 2 pics are the Final.
Not bad at all, I can't do that I am terrible doing stuff like that.
thats a nice guide but its too complicated
xabhi said:
thats a nice guide but its too complicated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish it was not so complicated too, maybe I can write it better!!, it is a good way to do it if you have the know how
Really good work. I like it. But you should put your parts into dishwasher before next photoseries
The screen on my Rogers HTC Raider is scratched. It is deep enough that I cannot remove by applying polisher. Screen still works but I rather replace the screen as the scratch is visible.
Where can I purchase the screen and replace it myself?
http://www.tmart.com/Replacement-LCD-Display-Screen-for-HTC-G19-Raider-4G_p137438.html
http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-vivid-screen-replacements-repair-parts.html
..
Thank you.
tap the thanks button
and good luck
A little advice - I've already replaced the screen on my Raider
Hi, glad someone else is attempting this. I had never replaced a screen in a phone before trying this so for me it was a little hair raising the first time I took it apart. On the back of the phone under the battery cover are 5 screws you need to remove, and one little plastic cover. Under the cover is the connector from the mainboard. Its just a little pop out connection, gently lever it loose before removing the shell to avoid hurting the ribbon.
Once you get this far, flip the phone face-up, and *from the bottom*, gently lever the sides and bottom of the plastic shell away from the screen. Its relatively easy.
Continue working along the edges toward the top until the plastic shell pops free, after that put it face-down again and remove the screws holding the battery holder to the rest of the phone. Pull it up and out to the left to remove it, being careful not to bend the battery contacts as they stay with the rest of the phone. Keep the screws with it, trust me - its easier to remember what goes where this way.
Once you have the battery holder off, put it aside and remove the screws holding the mainboard(s) to the shell. Also you will find three wires with little cup contacts at the ends, gently detach these as well, and when the screws and wires are off, carefully remove the boards. Look closely at the plastic tabs holding them in and you'll see how they come out. When taking them out of the phone you'll need to lift them like you were opening a book - ie. folding them to the right. Underneath are two sockets with ribbon cable connections, one should already be detached - the other can be popped off at this point. If you skipped detaching it at the beginning, now's the time to remove both.
This should leave you with two free boards attached in the middle by a black ribbon. Put them aside and what you have left in your hand is the metal shell, LCD, and digitizer.
NOW..the crappy news. This wonderful, beautiful, powerful, ESPENSIVE phone, is held together by black double-sided tape. Yep. Tape. AND you'll need some more before installing the new digitizer. I ordered mine from tmart as well and it not only comes with the wrong screwdrivers (btw you need a #1 philips bit - VERY tiny!!) but it doesn't come with any adhesive to mount the screen to.
Your new screen should also come with some prying tools, and they are quite handy. The guitar pick one didn't do much but the lever is very handy. You'll need to gently pry the digitizer away from the LCD with this tool being careful not to put too much pressure on the lcd or it might snap. Its only a few mm thick. GO SLOW.. you should have no problems. I've done it a few times now - I'm kinda rough on my toys.
Once you have the part un-taped, its still got the ribbon cable going back behind the lcd. Its connected to a small, thin socket on ther board. You lift a small white lever (remove the tape and save it - reapply it to the new connection) and slide the cable out. You'll need to use your lever again and pry up the lcd enough to slide the ribbon out from behind it. This can be tricky. Again, go slow, be real cautious..the tape is pretty strong. Once you have the panel out completely its just a matter of reversing the process. If you're real careful when removing the original panel, you might be able to reuse the double-sided tape thats in there.. I wasn't so lucky. Mine was covered in glass shards, as I mashed my screen pretty good.
Hope this helps!! I had a rough time the first time, but now its easy for me. I like taking it apart lol..
Let me know how you do! Good luck!
Brian
I'm preping to open my nook to make sure the battery cable isn't loose. There's this gummy stuff when I got a corner of the case up, but when I looked at the newpower99 battery replacement video it makes no mention of applying double sided tape or the like when reassemblin.
Basically I don't want to end up with a front plate that'll constantly fall off.
I'm pretty sure there's another video that does mention double-sided tape. If you check your office supply stores or well stocked hardware stores, there are two flavors. One of them being "permanent." Either will work if the surface is clean enough. That's going to be the trick. Almost anything that will remove the old adhesive, will also interfere with the new adhesive (Duh). I'd use a minimal amount of Goo Gone on the end of a cotton swab, followed by as many swabs of clear water as necessary. People often use alcohol, and alcohol usually leaves a film but does a poor job of removing the old adhesive.
P.S. I wonder why they felt it necessary to show us the removal and re-installation of all those screws!