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ATT tilt - usb RISK

hi, all. there is a rumor going around that the tilt will have problems if we frequently use non-original charger or usb cable (the one came with tilt) to charge the phone or transfer data such as causing the tilt not functioning or possibly burn out the device/battery, is that true??? do we always use the original usb cable and charger for charging the ATT tilt or transfering data? cuz I m currently using a usb car adapter to charge the tilt. I m really scare of it if this rumor is true. I don't want my tilt get burnt out. Please confirm or disconfirm it.. many thx

usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe

Rudegar said:
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the confirmation. seriously, I didn't believe that a usb cable will cause such serious problems since there is only minor difference in the original cable and a regular usb cable. they all look the same internally except for the terminal shape.

as an extra safety precaution, i wouldn't start the car with the tilt plugged in. might be nothing, might be something. once the car is running then i'd plug the tilt in....

i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.

Don't plug the phone in while the moon is out and the planets are aligned, it could cause the charger to spike and then brike your phone. j/k
My buddy had a problem with his USB. I think he put in a funky cable and it bent the connectors that are in the mini usb hole. Careful careful.

I would have to agree with that any usb be fine but be careful. When I first got my tilt awhile back I got this free usb car charger with it. It worked fine but something broke on the inside of it cause i could hear rattling inside. Prob a chip or something to tell the charger to stop charging if batttery is full. Well long story short I fried my usb connection and could not charge my phone or sync it. End up exchanging my Tilt out for a new one.

I am using the same USB cable to charge and sync since my Cingular 8125. I never charge using AC power.
As for car chargers, here is a simple way to check for potential power surges during starting:
1) Turn your key to "ON" but don't actually crank it. Let the radio come on and start playing. Now start the engine. Did your radio cut off during ignition?
-If Yes, unplug devices before starting because your car is not wired to supply continuous power to its outlets.
2) With your car off, and the key removed, plug in your phone. Does it start charging?
-If No, wait until the engine is running before plugging in your phone.
I am able to keep my phone connected at all times because as part of my ~$2000 audio upgrade, I also added an industrial-grade circuit breaker (not a fuse, an actual circuit breaker) between my battery and the inside of the car. In 4 years of running it, I have yet to stress it enough to pop.

Oh nice, I haven't seen too many breakers in a car. Saves on those uber expensive fuses.

The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.

I bought a sweet 3 in 1 charger kit from frys for 20 dolla..
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Be jealous it's ok!
http://www.wirelessemporium.com/pro...-1-mobile-phone-charger-motorola-razr2-v9.asp

Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Of course store guys are going to say that. That's what HTC says. And Store Guys are nothing but Puppets who read papers given to them by corporate and they recite them. Plus they can charge you more, there for make more money, if they sell you a OEM Charger then a "compatible" charger.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_ExtUSB
Plus the cable I got with my Tilt works just like a Standard USB cable so I don't think there is an issue. But what I'd like to see is the Numbers. Using the "HTC USB Sync cable" and a standard USB cable what amps are being sent. And What does the Device Prefer?

It can't use the name mini usb if it's not mini usb. I have a zippy belkin mini usb and it works greeeeat.

stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just make sure that your car charger has a fuse. If needed, change the fuse to a lower type (one that is just above the recommended for the Tilt, .5a is what I think it draws at). This will protect it from spikes when you start the car.
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used so many different types of USB cables and/or chargers on my Tilt. I have not once had an issue. Just make sure the power ratings are correct and you're good.

Whilst I normally subscribe to the view that the HTC branded part is no better than a decent quality 3rd party part, I have had issues with non-HTC chargers.
I manage the BlackBerries at work, and have tried numerous BB miniUSB chargers (The one with the cord hard wired and the one which is effectively a mains plug to female USB) and neither work with my Kaiser.
I also had issues with car cigarette lighter to USB adapters. As soon as I obtained an official HTC car charger, all the problems went away.

Scott_F said:
...
I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't supply more current then the device can consume. The number on the charger just shows the highest value of a current the charger can produce without dropping the voltage.

I bought a Cell phone & USB charging kit from BestBuy today and my Tilt got fried when I connected it to this charger after the car had already started. I just noticed the charger output is 5.3V 0.5A whereas the battery pack is only 3.7V ???

hey improtant question. i think that the usb port in the kaiser actually dose get messed up using other chargers. i belive this becouse i used to be able to charge with any charger like some of you but now only htc's charger works. and that sucks but whatever the bad part is the headphones downt work any more. cany any one else that has to use htc's charger confirm that the headphones no longer work?

I've seen issues with various chargers (including one for the Dopod 838pro, Motorolla, and no-name car chargers), where I've seen it not activate the charging mode on the PDA intermittently. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to conclusively rule out that the HTC original chargers will work 100% of the time either, since that particular Tilt unit wasn't mine.
Also for some reason, I've had this accessory fail to connect to the headphones port after using it for a while (with a car charger connected). Fortunately, i had bought a few (for myself and others), and the port on the HTC is still working. So maybe you can try another headphone accessory and see if it's really the port on the HTC that is dead.

From my personal experience, testing, and reading on these forums, it appears that there are three conditions that need to be satisfied for reliable use of the USB port:
First - The Mechanical Fit
Standard mini-USB connecters DO NOT fit the same as the HTC extended USB implementation. To address this, I use the HTC signal splitter (headphone+charger/sync) on almost all standard USB cables for chargeing. It's fully compliant with the HTC in all ways and has added benefits. (see below)
Second - Pinout
The charging circuit in the Tilt (and others) can be finicky with regard to whether or not it works using a standard USB cable. The HTC splitter solves that and allows slow charging from virtually any USB compliant source. I also have the adapter from http://www.pocketpctechs.com/ in my car that even allows you to select the fast charge or slow charge pinout via a switch. (VERY COOL) This works great because I'm usually looking for the fast charge in the car. (Note... fast charge is disabled when transferring data via USB)
Third - Electrical Spec
Voltage is 5V for all USB outputs. Spikes generated in a car are pretty tough to transmit past the step down circuit/ic in the auto USB power adapters. I have never heard of a device being damaged by a spike from the car via one of these adapters. The chip itself would fail to open before frying the USB power client (aka the Phone).
Current draw for these phones is 0.5A for slow charging and around 1A+ for fast charging. This is determined by the pinout of the cable you are using. Slow charge is the default on all data type cables. Some cables sold as "charging cables" enable the fast charge. (The PPC Techs cable has the switch to do this) I recommend using at least 750mA chargers to allow the phone to have enough current to run the gps, bluetooth, etc with the screen brightness turned up and still have a small excess trickle to charge the battery.
I hope this summary helps a bit.
Cheers!

Doesn't charge via wall charger, OK car and usb

Hello Group
My Kaiser has stopped charging via a wall charger. I woke up this morning, and the battery had not charged at all
Some notes
-This problem occurs with 2 different chargers from 2 different outlets
-The device does show the charging indicators (lights and icons) even though it isn't charging
-The device does charge on PC USB port
-The device does charge on the car charger
-No visual bending of the USB pin
I've searched forums, and although I can find references to the opposite issue (wall power OK, USB power or car power NG), I can't seem to find any reference to what I'm seeing. My apologies to the group if I've missed any previous thread regarding this.
Thanks to all who help.

hello, strange problem. have you powered off the phone, pull out battery and try again, see if that might help
lupe

overhaulengines said:
hello, strange problem. have you powered off the phone, pull out battery and try again, see if that might help
lupe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, and I have removed and re-inserted the battery.
I thought this also might have to do with a battery going bad, but from what I understand a wall charger gives more power than a usb port, so, again, if that were the case I'd think the opposite would be true
And I did find the thread on some Kaisers are eating up a lot of idle current, but after standby BatteryStatus/HomeScreen PlusPlus says just 1 ma

It sounds like your wall charger has gone bad. It may provide enough current to light up the charge LED, but it certainly doesn't have enough power to charge the battery. Try another wall charger- they all work the same way. I have a number of USB-mini devices and they all interchange for charging.

lsica said:
My Kaiser has stopped charging via a wall charger. I woke up this morning, and the battery had not charged at all
Some notes
-This problem occurs with 2 different chargers from 2 different outlets
-The device does show the charging indicators (lights and icons) even though it isn't charging
-The device does charge on PC USB port
-The device does charge on the car charger
-No visual bending of the USB pin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For what it's worth, you are NOT alone! The EXACT same thing has been happening to me on and off now for the past several months. At first, I thought it was the wall charger (I have 3 iGo chargers); however, ALL 3 of them failed to charge. I can understand one them failing, but ALL 3? No way. In my case, the car charger wasn't working either (it's also from iGo).
I ended up having to charge by USB. I eventually thought it was a battery problem, so I bought a new battery.
That worked...until the problem re-appeared again. The bottom line for me right now is that every now and then the wall charging does not work. So it will work fine for some time and then it will not, and then it starts to work again, etc. This erratic behavior happens with both batteries.
The duration of the wall charging working/not working is not fixed, I have found. For example, I have gone a couple of months of it charging fine and then it stops. At other times, it has been as short as a day. In any case, I usually find out about the problem in the morning, when I still see the amber charging light.
I'm convinced it's a Tilt problem.

I've loaded HomeScreenPlus to monitor current draw, and have seen the following:
-One wall charger is showing positive current (negative draw) SOMETIMES, and during those times it does charge the phone. This unit also makes the charge light turn off and on when I jiggle the plugs or cable. Obviously this charger is just broken.
-Another charger does not turn off/on the charge light or current draw when the wire is jiggled, but also never shows a positive current on the phone. This is an IGo charger, and based on previous posts here I'm thinking they just don't supply enough current to charge the phone. in other words, they suck
Any one have recomendations for a replacement wall charger for my Tilt?

i had the same issue with my htc tytn. no charger worked well for more than 5 minutes, until i got an official htc charger from my wifes shadow... now i use it because it works... and she uses the 3rd party one that came with my hermes when i bought it used... it charges her smart phone just fine, i assume beause it requires less juice? I dont know, but get a official htc branded charger... black berries have the same issue after they start getting a little old... probably something to due with wear and tear on resistors of some sort?

Found a charger that works
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2935909
although I expect any ac to usb power adapter that supplies enough current will do. You just need to use your Kaiser/Tilt usb sync cable with it

I got exactly same problem for my Moto Q.
Tried several charger that worked before. Now, none of them works.

Here is the solution.
From www dot heberts dot net/motorola-q-wasnt-charging-via-usb
Start → Settings → Connections → USB to PC. I make “Enable advanced network functionality” on and off, and it works.
szniwawa said:
Tried several charger that worked before. Now, none of them works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

My Kaiser
- Charges via AC
- Charges via Doc
- Does not Charge vis USB
- Does not charge via Car Charger
But if I use an "audio Adaptor" which has usbMini Input it will charge whatever i plug in!!
Weird as hell.
Regards
Mo

I bought one of these from fleebay and it works a treat with ANY charger I plug into it.
HTC Multifunction Audio Cable YC A300
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Regards
Mo

[Q] Charging on CM7 With A Non Nook Charger

Hey Guys,
So I've been using CM7 since Nightly 13 or so. Around that time I was using both my stock charger and other micro usb cables I had. I would plug the non-stock into a non-stock wall plug usb outlet thing or to the computer and I had no trouble charging the nook. This is great for being at work.
Then, somewhere around nightly 22 or so this stopped working. The icon in the status bar on the nook shows charging, spare parts reports "Charging USB" and "Charging AC" respectively, but the battery level only goes down.
To make matters worse, around nightly 22 I found that after I had used the non-stock charger even the stock stopped working. I was not getting ANY charge. I read somewhere that I could use CWM to clear the battery stats so I did and that appears to correct the problem. I'm able to use the stock again.
So here I am, running CM7 rc4 but I see that I'm still not able to charge from non-stock.
Does anybody know what gives here or can you point me towards more information?
Thanks

yeah, I seem to be having the same problem
My nook was out of juice this morning so I brought a usb cable with me to work
it's been plugged in for over an hour and it still won't even turn on..

mine charges fine with the cabble that came with my evo into my laptop

This sounds important enough to repost in the Developer forum, no?

actually, I think it is charging
it's just charging REALLY slowly
mine's finally booted up now

Well I understand it always has charged much slower without the standard Nook charger, so maybe this is just an isolated case for the OP?

If I don't turn off the screen and use 1100 mhz + performance governor and have live wallpaper running, it won't charge. I think it's because it's using more power than my USB can supply.
If I have it on interactive 300/1100, with the screen off, it will charge overnight.

I don't think its and isolated event, I have the same problem but with the original nook charger its all out of juice its been connected to the wall jack for 1 hour and its not even trying to turn on.
It's a very pretty paperweight telling me that I should try again in 15 minutes for the past hour.

Yours won't charge with the original charger? What kind of light are you getting on the charger cable? Have you tried turning the machine completely off?

chisleu said:
If I don't turn off the screen and use 1100 mhz + performance governor and have live wallpaper running, it won't charge. I think it's because it's using more power than my USB can supply.
If I have it on interactive 300/1100, with the screen off, it will charge overnight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, after waiting the day it appears this is the case. I have to leave the screen off and it will charge. If I actually use it I think I'm consuming more power than trickles in. That's really lame.
I've had the screen off for the last 5 hours (using it occasionally) and it is now at 50% battery, up from 8%. So I guess it is charging... just REALLY slowly.
What, if anything, can be done about this? Is this a purely hardware issue or is there a software aspect to this. I'm telling you, I didn't have this issue with nightly 13 (or so).

You know, I had been using the "ondemand" governor but have changed over to the "interactive". I wonder if that has anything to do with it. I'm going to switch it back and see if it makes a difference.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the nook only charges with the nook charger.
When I plug CM7 into the PC the battery percentage will jump to 100% after some (brief) time. Since I know it's too short of a time to fully charge the battery I rebooted the Nook Color and it showed the proper battery percentage.
As an aside, you're not supposed to let lithium ion batteries fully discharge. It's bad for the battery.

No I understand that it does charge via regular USB, just more slowly. The Nook cable is specially designed to add additional pins for higher voltage charging. Or something like that.

I have this plugged into a standard Motorola microUSB wall charger and it works fine for my Nook Color.
The only thing is that it charges at a much lower amperage.
You can verify this with a quick dmesg piped to grep in a terminal:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
With the standard Nook Color Charger, it charges at a rate of 2A.
It works fine at 500 mA; it just takes a lot longer.
Does anyone know if charging this way might cause damage over time to the Nook?

Logically, if it were harmful they wouldn't allow you to use a USB cable to connect to a powered USB port on a PC. (Or they'd disable charging upon such a connection.)
I mean, some people are going to leave the things connected to their PC for long periods.

xdabr said:
Logically, if it were harmful they wouldn't allow you to use a USB cable to connect to a powered USB port on a PC. (Or they'd disable charging upon such a connection.)
I mean, some people are going to leave the things connected to their PC for long periods.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... for the record, the stock nook complains when you use the non-stock charger. And it doesn't report charging.
It definitely charges using CM7, but it is super slow AND using the nook while charged seems to break even on battery consumption. If I shut the screen off though it definitely puts power into the battery.
You can see all this by using SpareParts. It shows battery info on demand and you'll actually be able to see the voltage in the battery and watch it charge. Percentage be damned I'm looking at voltage
So... I think my original question is answered. Yes, it will charge off USB or non-stock charger using a non-stock cord. It charges slowly and with a low amount of voltage meaning I can't really use the thing if I expect it to charge.
Maybe I just need to man up and buy another stock charger. :/

Paul22000 said:
It works fine at 500 mA; it just takes a lot longer.
Does anyone know if charging this way might cause damage over time to the Nook?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quite the opposite. For Li-Ion batteries, a slower "trickle" charge is actually recommended over the "quick" version via higher amps.

3rd party chargers aside, are you saying with stock Nook Eclair it doesn't "report" any charging when attached with a standard USB cables to a PC -- and does it in fact NOT charge at all that way? 'Cause that would be a signifier to me that it's not intended and is potentially unsafe.
I thought I had read that it does eventually charge, just as it does in CM7....

Mine will charge with the non-oem chargers, but it takes forever. I try not to let mine completely die because it's such a pain to get it powered on again. I get the notice on screen that says something about "continue charging and try again in 15 minutes" and it takes much longer than that. Last time it died all I had was a non-oem charger at my parents' place and I had to leave it plugged in over night and when I woke up it was back on but STILL not 100%. It's a pain when you're in a hurry, but if you're in a bind and that's all you have but have time to leave it, it will eventually power back on. At least that's my experience with the nook running cm7.

Definitely seems software/driver issue. For me, the Nookie Froyo SD build had great battery time, and would slow-charge from a normal USB cable plugged into laptop. I know this because 1. It would charge, and 2. If it was fast-charging as normal, and pulling too many milliamps from the laptop, it would have informed me the USB port draw was too great, and disabled it. I have a Y USB power splitter for external hard drive - I should test if it changes anything if I use it (I'll assume it won't as it wouldn't have the custom pins).
Now that I'm messing with CM7 (sd) builds, battery drain is horrible, so I often get that "15 minutes" screen and I've had cases where it won't charge from a regular USB cable. Haven't done a lot of testing with these much, as I didn't want to have to leave it plugged in constantly.

[Q] Touchpad charging at 100ma only

Hi there, long time lurker first time poster as I cant find this problem anywhere and my googlefu has failed me.
Background:
I have a HP Touchpad 32gb, Ive been running CM9 recently.
A month or two into first getting the touchpad I had problems turning it on (assumed battery problem) and got it fixed through HP warranty, returned the same device in working order, non the wiser about what went wrong.
Onto the problem at hand:
Nearly a year later the battery appears to go below safe capacity and wont turn on at all no matter the button combination used or charge/discharge tricks/chargers.
Resorted to taking apart, removing and charging the lipo battery with a RC battery charger and SUCCESS! powers up 100% battery etc.
HOWEVER now no matter what charger or cable combination I use the battery will not charge, webos claims that I am not using the official charger yet I have tried 2 official chargers and many micro usb cables to no avail.
Using JCSullin's TPChargeTest-v1.0 application displays that the device is only receiving 100ma charge using official charger and 0ma (!!) when charging from usb host.
my next guess is that the battery is dead/dying and need a new one, but before I shell out and wait for delivery of a battery I was wondering if anyone had any similar problems or perhaps a suggestion on how to fix this?
Thanks :good:

I have left the charger plugged in with the touchpad off for 24h+ and the battery has gone from 93% to 50% in that time. The battery is clearly not charging.
Does anyone have anything I could try?

If its the battery port, you can try to get a Touchstone charger, which will eliminate the need for a charging cable. If its the battery, the only thing you can really do is try and replace it if you know how. And you are charging it in a wall outlet right? Not a computer? Because a computer wont charge it.

Having exact same problem with my touchpad which previously was charging fine off the original ac charger.
Left it charging with wifi & screen off, went from 11% to 25% in a little over 8 hours ... Not good!

Ok, further update ...
Have swapped over the usb board with another TP brick. Its now charging at the recommended 2A from the wall/mains charger.
So ... best guess seems to point to the usb port/board being faulty. Guess the only option with that is to do what I did or use a wireless charger.
Peace
Edit - a further hint that it was the usb port, was that I could not get it recognised when plugging into pc or laptop. Not in any mode, shape or form...

I had the Usb board replaced while it was still under warranty. Your lucky (sort of) that you had a spare.

Aye, lucky! It's a tp that is totally resistive to any attempts at resurrection, even tpdebrick can't touch it! So it is serving another purpose, as a donor!
I guess a touchstone would have done but file transfer was gonna prove difficult ... the damaged USB port meant my pc could not understand what the hell was being plugged in ...

chris5s said:
Ok, further update ...
Have swapped over the usb board with another TP brick. Its now charging at the recommended 2A from the wall/mains charger.
So ... best guess seems to point to the usb port/board being faulty. Guess the only option with that is to do what I did or use a wireless charger.
Peace
Edit - a further hint that it was the usb port, was that I could not get it recognised when plugging into pc or laptop. Not in any mode, shape or form...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a similar problem to me! I shall have a look for parts online. Might try a new battery aswell.
Thanks!

alowva said:
Sounds like a similar problem to me! I shall have a look for parts online. Might try a new battery aswell.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of interest, what happens when you connect to a pc with the USB cable? Is the device recognised? If not, likely the USB port is u/s and a new battery might be an unnecessary expense ... Just a thought.
Peace

chris5s said:
Out of interest, what happens when you connect to a pc with the USB cable? Is the device recognised? If not, likely the USB port is u/s and a new battery might be an unnecessary expense ... Just a thought.
Peace
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent idea! I have checked on android and webos and neither are detecting a USB connection to my PC, but it does detect as "charging" however Touchpad Charge Test still shows its charging at 0ma
I thought it might have been the port assembly that was broken, and I checked to see if it was seated properly where it connects to the motherboard and it seemed to be, perhaps a the data+ or - has been broken, I shall inspect it closer and maybe get out the multimeter.
Thanks for the idea, hopefully i can fix this without getting a new battery! :good:

I have checked the micro USB port on the TP and it seems that the data connections and even possibly the power connections aren't working.
Im going to attempt to resolder them before getting a replacement as they're hard to find and expensive (In in the UK) hopefully that will fix it.

alowva said:
Hi there, long time lurker first time poster as I cant find this problem anywhere and my googlefu has failed me.
Background:
I have a HP Touchpad 32gb, Ive been running CM9 recently.
A month or two into first getting the touchpad I had problems turning it on (assumed battery problem) and got it fixed through HP warranty, returned the same device in working order, non the wiser about what went wrong.
Onto the problem at hand:
Nearly a year later the battery appears to go below safe capacity and wont turn on at all no matter the button combination used or charge/discharge tricks/chargers.
Resorted to taking apart, removing and charging the lipo battery with a RC battery charger and SUCCESS! powers up 100% battery etc.
HOWEVER now no matter what charger or cable combination I use the battery will not charge, webos claims that I am not using the official charger yet I have tried 2 official chargers and many micro usb cables to no avail.
Using JCSullin's TPChargeTest-v1.0 application displays that the device is only receiving 100ma charge using official charger and 0ma (!!) when charging from usb host.
my next guess is that the battery is dead/dying and need a new one, but before I shell out and wait for delivery of a battery I was wondering if anyone had any similar problems or perhaps a suggestion on how to fix this?
Thanks :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello @alowva,
I know it's been a long time since you posted this.
Do you remember what pin did you plugin your LIPO charger?
Did you use nicad?
I have a very low battery I need to boost.
Thanks a lot

pas7771 said:
Hello @alowva,
I know it's been a long time since you posted this.
Do you remember what pin did you plugin your LIPO charger?
Did you use nicad?
I have a very low battery I need to boost.
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this is a blast from the past...
I eventually gave up on this tablet, but not before soldering a usb cable directly to the charging board to get a little more life out of it!
However since then I have had plenty of experience with other phones, tablets and laptops, and bare 18650 liion cells recharging and reusing for other projects.
WARNING! DO THE BELOW AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
I would recommend taking out the battery from the tablet (which is possible to do without completely dissasembling if you're careful enough)
Once removed the battery itself has a 7 pin connector, the outside wires 2x red (positive + ) and 2x black (negative - ). check the voltage on the battery using a voltmeter, "healthy" voltage is between 3v and 4.2v, if its below 3v you may have issues depending on the charger and if the battery is internally damaged.
The easiest way to connect to a charger is to use some solid core wire (or paperclip) pushed into the white connector on the battery, one wire connecting both red cables, and another connecting both black cables. then connect those wires to the red (positive + ) and black (negative - ) cables on your charger.
Charge at a slow rate and and be careful not to connect red to black!
Make sure you dont leave the charger and battery on anything flamable, a concrete floor or baking tray might help, and keep an eye on it as if the battery is internally damaged it may swell and catch fire (search for videos of lithium battery fire)
I have had a lot of success with reviving batteries in this way, however its best to be safe!
EDIT: dont use NICAD charger, only liion or lipo charger

alowva said:
Well this is a blast from the past...
I eventually gave up on this tablet, but not before soldering a usb cable directly to the charging board to get a little more life out of it!
However since then I have had plenty of experience with other phones, tablets and laptops, and bare 18650 liion cells recharging and reusing for other projects.
WARNING! DO THE BELOW AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
I would recommend taking out the battery from the tablet (which is possible to do without completely dissasembling if you're careful enough)
Once removed the battery itself has a 7 pin connector, the outside wires 2x red (positive + ) and 2x black (negative - ). check the voltage on the battery using a voltmeter, "healthy" voltage is between 3v and 4.2v, if its below 3v you may have issues depending on the charger and if the battery is internally damaged.
The easiest way to connect to a charger is to use some solid core wire (or paperclip) pushed into the white connector on the battery, one wire connecting both red cables, and another connecting both black cables. then connect those wires to the red (positive + ) and black (negative - ) cables on your charger.
Charge at a slow rate and and be careful not to connect red to black!
Make sure you dont leave the charger and battery on anything flamable, a concrete floor or baking tray might help, and keep an eye on it as if the battery is internally damaged it may swell and catch fire (search for videos of lithium battery fire)
I have had a lot of success with reviving batteries in this way, however its best to be safe!
EDIT: dont use NICAD charger, only liion or lipo charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your explanation..
I have seen videos on Lipo battery revival.
mine is at 2.540v I will use a Lipo B6 charger, some people said that slow charging in nicad or nimem mode because on lipo mode it will show a low voltage.
I do have a lipo fireproof bag.
Do you know what the blue, yelow and green wire do?
Thanks
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Dash Charge protocol analysis

On the Oneplus forum there is a thread where they analysed the dash-charging cable ( https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/...-cable-doing-internally-lets-probe-it.456017/ ).
The topic was finished by somebody posting a teardown of the cable revealing that it's dash-charging capabilities are encoded on a BQ2022 from ti.
The next logical step is to dig into the communication between the phone and the charger.
The same guy that tore down the cable also took a look at the chargers (google translate will be helpfull):
http://www.chongdiantou.com/wp/archives/1228.html Mains
http://www.chongdiantou.com/wp/archives/1339.html Car
Maybe we can continue the investigation here....

So, I did some digging around the Car-Unit with my Logic Analyzer.
Description of setup here: http://imgur.com/a/G7pPN
The charger waits for a current draw (i didn't bother testing it's thresholds) and then reads/checks-for the E²PROM embedded in the plug of the cable (presumably containing an authentication for dash).
At a similar time the phone sends a kind of "preamble" consisting of high-low transitions of varying lengths (but this doesn't seem to important to the charger, it tries to "dash" even without it).
Afterwards the phone and charger start exchanging 9 bits of data in bursts. One USB-Data-Line is clock, the other one is data. The chargers supplies the clock and the first 9 bits and after a short pause the phone gets to reply with another 9 bits as the charger supplies another "clock-burst".
At the beginning (before dash-charging is in effect), the charger sends 150h and the phone replys with 158h.
Once the phone is ready to begin dash-charging it replys with 178h instead.
The charger then configures it's Step-Down Converter for ~4.5V of output voltage and then sends 148h to the phone.
It either replies with 170h if the voltage is too high or 178h if the voltage is correct (I didn't see a reply for "too low", but it might exist).
If the phone replies 170h the charger lowers the voltage by about 100mV-200mV and "asks" again.
Once the phone replies with 178h the charger stops lowering the voltage and sends 14Ch to which the phone replies with 141h.
During the dash-charging process the charger periodically sends 144h to which the phone replies with a number which seems to roughly coincide with the state of charge (i have seen values from 16Eh to 178h).
The charger seems to nudge-up the voltage every once in a while (presumably when the current dropped below a threshold).
If the battery is relatively full (i tested at 90% charge) the "dash-charging-cycle" doesn't even start and the communication stays at an exchange of 150h/158h data "words".
I did some minor probing on the wall-wart with a stripped USB 3.0 extension and found that it uses the same commands but with the lowest bit set (i.e. it adds 1 to the command codes). Unfortunately the USB 3.0 cable had some internal resistance ruining most of the analog measurements.
todo:
- I didn't manage to capture is the transition from dash charging back to "normal" 5V mode at the end of the charge cycle.
- The values communicated at the transition from the voltage-setting process to the dash charging operation are unclear to me (but they appear to be always the same).

Do you think it's safe to use OnePlus 3 brick or car Dash charger with let's say micro USB cable and charge other phones? Or OnePlus power bank?

nitramcek said:
Do you think it's safe to use OnePlus 3 brick or car Dash charger with let's say micro USB cable and charge other phones? Or OnePlus power bank?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's safe as with other phone or cable it will act as a normal charger blocking at 1.5A.
Dash charge will only activate if, the dash cable is used with a dash charging phone or oppo vooc phone.

Le_Zouave said:
it's safe as with other phone or cable it will act as a normal charger blocking at 1.5A.
Dash charge will only activate if, the dash cable is used with a dash charging phone or oppo vooc phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, so It's safe to use my car Dash charger for charging other phones to.

atheist93 said:
So, I did some digging around the Car-Unit with my Logic Analyzer.
Description of setup here: http://imgur.com/a/G7pPN
The charger waits for a current draw (i didn't bother testing it's thresholds) and then reads/checks-for the E²PROM embedded in the plug of the cable (presumably containing an authentication for dash).
At a similar time the phone sends a kind of "preamble" consisting of high-low transitions of varying lengths (but this doesn't seem to important to the charger, it tries to "dash" even without it).
Afterwards the phone and charger start exchanging 9 bits of data in bursts. One USB-Data-Line is clock, the other one is data. The chargers supplies the clock and the first 9 bits and after a short pause the phone gets to reply with another 9 bits as the charger supplies another "clock-burst".
At the beginning (before dash-charging is in effect), the charger sends 150h and the phone replys with 158h.
Once the phone is ready to begin dash-charging it replys with 178h instead.
The charger then configures it's Step-Down Converter for ~4.5V of output voltage and then sends 148h to the phone.
It either replies with 170h if the voltage is too high or 178h if the voltage is correct (I didn't see a reply for "too low", but it might exist).
If the phone replies 170h the charger lowers the voltage by about 100mV-200mV and "asks" again.
Once the phone replies with 178h the charger stops lowering the voltage and sends 14Ch to which the phone replies with 141h.
During the dash-charging process the charger periodically sends 144h to which the phone replies with a number which seems to roughly coincide with the state of charge (i have seen values from 16Eh to 178h).
The charger seems to nudge-up the voltage every once in a while (presumably when the current dropped below a threshold).
If the battery is relatively full (i tested at 90% charge) the "dash-charging-cycle" doesn't even start and the communication stays at an exchange of 150h/158h data "words".
I did some minor probing on the wall-wart with a stripped USB 3.0 extension and found that it uses the same commands but with the lowest bit set (i.e. it adds 1 to the command codes). Unfortunately the USB 3.0 cable had some internal resistance ruining most of the analog measurements.
todo:
- I didn't manage to capture is the transition from dash charging back to "normal" 5V mode at the end of the charge cycle.
- The values communicated at the transition from the voltage-setting process to the dash charging operation are unclear to me (but they appear to be always the same).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really interesting analysis. What's your goal? Enabling dash charging without dash accessories?
(USB-C for example)

My primary motivation is curiosity.
If the protocol turns out to be sufficiently simple to replicate (which is looking good at the moment) I might try and build a dash powerbank to quickly top of my battery. I wouldn't want 3+ Amps going through a flimsy micro-to-c adapter from a vooc bank...

atheist93 said:
My primary motivation is curiosity.
If the protocol turns out to be sufficiently simple to replicate (which is looking good at the moment) I might try and build a dash powerbank to quickly top of my battery. I wouldn't want 3+ Amps going through a flimsy micro-to-c adapter from a vooc bank...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm, so you're trying to replicate it on the hardware side, that's a cool application and it'd be great to have other options for power banks and car chargers.
i honestly don't know much about the topic, but do you think i'd be possible to replicate it on the software side? ie, mimic the protocol to enable faster charging when plugged into a USB-C fast charging output? (but also limit it to 3A since that's a safe max similar to the Nexus 5X/6P)

I am pretty sure that it is not possible to do it in software only.
The whole point of Dash is to let the charger do the regulating and make the phone just "pass-through" the raw connection to the battery.
You might be able to trick the phone into switching it's "pass-through" feature on without getting the right initialization, but this would frankly be stupid as the result would be 5V from the USB-Port pushing directly into the lithium cell which is supposed to stay below 4,2V. Initially the internal resistance of the USB-Cable might limit the current sufficiently to prevent an immediate catastrophic failure, but I can't imagine it working out well in the long run...
The only possible solution i see for this to work is to have a device that plugs into your existing USB and steps down the voltage appropriately, but that is hardware again.

atheist93 said:
I am pretty sure that it is not possible to do it in software only.
The whole point of Dash is to let the charger do the regulating and make the phone just "pass-through" the raw connection to the battery.
You might be able to trick the phone into switching it's "pass-through" feature on without getting the right initialization, but this would frankly be stupid as the result would be 5V from the USB-Port pushing directly into the lithium cell which is supposed to stay below 4,2V. Initially the internal resistance of the USB-Cable might limit the current sufficiently to prevent an immediate catastrophic failure, but I can't imagine it working out well in the long run...
The only possible solution i see for this to work is to have a device that plugs into your existing USB and steps down the voltage appropriately, but that is hardware again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a physical device which enables dash charging, particularly up to 3A via USB-C and 2.4A via USB-A to USB-C, would be of great use too

atheist93 said:
My primary motivation is curiosity.
If the protocol turns out to be sufficiently simple to replicate (which is looking good at the moment) I might try and build a dash powerbank to quickly top of my battery. I wouldn't want 3+ Amps going through a flimsy micro-to-c adapter from a vooc bank...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought the Dash car charger to be used as a car charger as well as backup power for camping etc. The dash charger seems to work with a wide range of input voltage. I would guess 8V-28V works fine.
I tested the dash car charger with eight AA Eneloop batteries but it didn't work well. The input voltage dropped from 11V to 6,6V. I think the stress was too much for eight batteries and dash charging didn't work. Ampere (app) displayed a reading of 1120mA for charging current.
Ten AA Eneloops were enough to dash charge the phone twice from 40% -> 90%. I also tested the dash car charger with a 19V PSU and it workerd fine as well.
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The next step is to buy lifepo 4 / lipo battery and build a case.

Thanks for the work done.
The problems with the enelope is the wiring... I guess there will be a massive voltage drop over the holder/wires and clips.
These things are not made for higher currents. I have seen experiments failing because of battery holders and crocodile clips very often. The problem is that these cables often have massive resistance which is no problem as long there is no current flowing... Greetings from Ohms law

Squabl said:
I bought the Dash car charger to be used as a car charger as well as backup power for camping etc. The dash charger seems to work with a wide range of input voltage. I would guess 8V-28V works fine.
I tested the dash car charger with eight AA Eneloop batteries but it didn't work well. The input voltage dropped from 11V to 6,6V. I think the stress was too much for eight batteries and dash charging didn't work. Ampere (app) displayed a reading of 1120mA for charging current.
Ten AA Eneloops were enough to dash charge the phone twice from 40% -> 90%. I also tested the dash car charger with a 19V PSU and it workerd fine as well.
The next step is to buy lifepo 4 / lipo battery and build a case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did your project go? And why Lipo batteries? Why not 18650 batts?

MonoTovarisj said:
How did your project go? And why Lipo batteries? Why not 18650 batts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get custom Li-Po batteries to fit any size and are generally square. 18650s are cylindrical and there would be wasted space between the batteries so with a Li-Po you would be able to get higher capacity. Just a wild guess

MonoTovarisj said:
How did your project go? And why Lipo batteries? Why not 18650 batts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up using battery from my 18V cordless drill. The battery is quite small and light weight for it capacity. It was the easiest and cheapest option as I need battery backup very seldom.

I did a case for 4 x 18650 and the car charger, but got a little stuck in the project. Mostly because I don't have any electronic skills.

This looks cool.
What questions do you have? I can help out with the electronics. But it seems to be quite straight forward. But to be safe use protected 18650 cells. I can recommend the Panasonic NCR18650b, they are the best ones currently available. See: https://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_187046.html. You might need to adjust your design the protection makes them a bit longer than standart 18650 cells.

The design is already for the panasonic protected 18650 cells. However I would have liked a pcb in the buttom with full charging circuit and a usb-c for charging. With my current design I have to take the cells out for charging. :-/

MonoTovarisj said:
The design is already for the panasonic protected 18650 cells. However I would have liked a pcb in the buttom with full charging circuit and a usb-c for charging. With my current design I have to take the cells out for charging. :-/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want to connect the 4 cells in series right?
I haven't found any good 4s charging modules yet.
Building you own charger circuit based on an charger IC is hardcore electronics. I have tried and i took months.
So charging the externally should be fine really.

affmalg said:
You want to connect the 4 cells in series right?
I haven't found any good 4s charging modules yet.
Building your own charger circuit based on a charger IC is hardcore electronics. I have tried and I took months.
So charging the externally should be fine really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah series, as I need the voltage for the car charger, and 3.7 times 4 gives a nice 14,8V for the charger.
Regarding charging that was my conclusion as well, however if I wanted to commercialise it, I would need a built-in charging circuit.
I would be able to get wires to the top poles as well if that would help the design, then you would be able to charge them individually and switch to a serial connection when in use.