Good afternoon, I took my Moto G4 XT1626 to the technical assistance and found that the audio circuit and headphone connector were burned, the problem is that I am not with the money to have it replaced and when I open certain applications FIFA 14, Gangstar Vegas they say it has stopped working, but other games work without the sound.
I would like to know how to disable the sound check of these applications as it looks like they do a check before opening.
Thank you, I have root
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Hi all,
As i started servicing all pdas for a couple of monthes (only as a hobby, i fix them for friends and relatives), i came across one BA that gave me some trouble.
i got it to replace its LCD that was broken as it was dropped and thats very simple to replace it, so far so good. now it has two main problems :
1. no sound from speaker (even when in speakerphone mode), but there is sound in the stereo earphones (i plugged to the connector by the sd card slot). - i can only assume that a bluetooth handsfree device it will also work.
2. although the backup battery is fully charged, if i remove the main battery even for a brief second, when turned on, the BA acts as if i made a hard reset.
as for solving the problems :
1. using a digital multimeter, i managed to track the conductivity from the internal speaker through its connector, flat ribbon to the connector which connects to the main pcb - so there is no contact problem from the speaker to the main pcb.
using the help from WIKI, i went to site that has the list of all components and their description - the IC that is responsible for audio amp is a MAXIM's MAX4410 which is a stereo headphone driver. a quick look at its charasteristics and typical configuration and i understood that (assuming this is the IC that drives the internal speaker) the speaker should have one pin which is ground and the other goes to the amplified signal from the IC. neither one of the pins showed it has GND to it. so maybe there is a bad GND line to the connector.
2. regarding the backup battery issue i do not know what makes this problem.
I am sharing this info with you all with two ideas in mind :
1. to resolve my problem and know those devices hardware better.
2. because i am quite a while watching xda-developers and WIKI and i got the feeling that a lot of eforth is given to the software side of all those pdas (which is greate!!! keep going, this work helps lots of people and it shows al thos mega corps they are not the only ones), but the hardware is a bit forgotten and left behind. let me tell you this, there are many VERY simple mini projects i made useing electronics (i am an electronics engineer in my profession) that made my life easy . i am now investigating those instruments hardware as i have several ideas to develope useful accessories to my pda (like an external IR transciver to control IR devices like TV,DVD and to communicate with my laptop, and some other ideas) and i believe we can do the same info sharing as done on software side but on the hardware side.
I will thank any ideas, thoghts or commentsabout this matter. Yol.
Hi all,
As i started servicing all pdas for a couple of monthes (only as a hobby, i fix them for friends and relatives), i came across one BA that gave me some trouble.
i got it to replace its LCD that was broken as it was dropped and thats very simple to replace it, so far so good. now it has two main problems :
1. no sound from speaker (even when in speakerphone mode), but there is sound in the stereo earphones (i plugged to the connector by the sd card slot). - i can only assume that a bluetooth handsfree device it will also work.
2. although the backup battery is fully charged, if i remove the main battery even for a brief second, when turned on, the BA acts as if i made a hard reset.
as for solving the problems :
1. using a digital multimeter, i managed to track the conductivity from the internal speaker through its connector, flat ribbon to the connector which connects to the main pcb - so there is no contact problem from the speaker to the main pcb.
using the help from WIKI, i went to site that has the list of all components and their description - the IC that is responsible for audio amp is a MAXIM's MAX4410 which is a stereo headphone driver. a quick look at its charasteristics and typical configuration and i understood that (assuming this is the IC that drives the internal speaker) the speaker should have one pin which is ground and the other goes to the amplified signal from the IC. neither one of the pins showed it has GND to it. so maybe there is a bad GND line to the connector.
2. regarding the backup battery issue i do not know what makes this problem.
I am sharing this info with you all with two ideas in mind :
1. to resolve my problem and know those devices hardware better.
2. because i am quite a while watching xda-developers and WIKI and i got the feeling that a lot of eforth is given to the software side of all those pdas (which is greate!!! keep going, this work helps lots of people and it shows al thos mega corps they are not the only ones), but the hardware is a bit forgotten and left behind. let me tell you this, there are many VERY simple mini projects i made useing electronics (i am an electronics engineer in my profession) that made my life easy . i am now investigating those instruments hardware as i have several ideas to develope useful accessories to my pda (like an external IR transciver to control IR devices like TV,DVD and to communicate with my laptop, and some other ideas) and i believe we can do the same info sharing as done on software side but on the hardware side.
I will thank any ideas, thoghts or commentsabout this matter. Yol.
I recently replaced a digitizer and lcd on a HTC HD7.
Since reassembly there isn't any sound.
If someone rings me i can talk to them and i can hear them, however if i play music or play a game, or if the phone rings i cant hear anything.
Anyone know what i need to check/replace? The phone still vibrates to touch and calls and i can hear people when in a call. Just no sound from music/phone ringing/apps/games.
I don't remember pulling the speaker when I replaced those components. Do you get sound through the head phone jack when you play music? If you do then I would say that you have one of those little single click in connectors that are not properly seated.
Or maybe you where too violent when you removed the the ribbon style circuit board from the housing. If you where a little too rough with the part that your battery hides then I would say you got away lucky. If you used more force than you did heat to remove this part then you where too rough.
Hello
I got an I9000. A few days ago I dissasembled the phone to separate the glass from the frame to fix the "home" button.
I was able to remove it without breaking the screen and fixed it. When I assembled everything back together I noticed that the earphone doesn't work and I can't hear what the other person says in a call. If I enable hands free it works well (uses the main speaker of the phone) and if I connect headphones to the audio jack it works as well.
Microphone is working fine (using the audio jack or using the phone's microphone).
I tried to replace the earphone-audiojack-light sensor module and it still doesn't work. I tried 2 different ones with no success.
The light sensor / proximity sensor works good as well. So I don't think there's a damage on the motherboard or the socket itself.
According to the I9000 technician manual it says to follow a few checks for this module that I attached on the attachments.
The components it asks to check are:
U207 - IC-CODEC
UCP200 - IC-MODEM
HDC302 - HEADER-BOARD TO BOARD
Surpsingly I am sure those components are used for other features of the phone. For example the IC-Codec must be the audio codec used to play sound. Sound works perfectly on the other speaker and on the audio jack. IC-MODEM is probably the chip that holds the modem.bin firmware of the phone, so if there was a failure with this chip I think I should have no signal, and I do. HDC302, well, could be, I wonder why tho since I've been carefully with this and I have dissasembled this phone a few times already with no issue.
Could you help me? How do the tests indicated in the manual? I only have a multimeter, but not an oscilloscope.
Thank you!
Hello
Seems this is a tough question. Do you know where I could find information? Maybe another forum that it's more into mobile hardware stuff?
Thank you.
Hello
After checking the pins with a multimeter I noticed that the pins 11 and 13 from the earpiece were not in continuity. Replaced the piece (a few times because all of them were broken) and phone is working again.
Thanks.
Hey guys,
I bought a Chinese head unit a while back with an external microphone included, plugged with a jack. It's taped closed to the speedometer on my car, so that it's closer to my head, for better sound strength. The cable isn't in the way either, which is nice.
However the result is quite bad, with lots of noise, and I'm forced to speak rather loudly so that my interlocutor might hear me.
Is there anyone with an external microphone like me that is satisfied of it's performances ? Something with noise reduction maybe ?? It might be good to have a system that would remove the engine noise as well as the sound of my interlocutor voice through the speakers... not sure it's available or efficient though. I'm not willing to spend more than 30$ on this.
Also, I don't want any Bluetooth stuff. Cables only.
So far, this is what I found that might work. But I doubt the quality of the sound is that great :
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Hands-Free-GOgroove/dp/B008XMV05G
It's Bluetooth OR wired.
Hey!!
I have the same issue.
Have you solved your issue with your new external mic?
thank you
No I didn’t buy it on the end, nothing progressed do far, sry...
I found with mine that placement was the ultimate game changer in usability. I routed mine up through the A pillar and to the headliner right above the head unit and it works flawless after having nothing but issues all over the dash and center console. I have just an average cheapo mic too.
RUGGNATION said:
I found with mine that placement was the ultimate game changer in usability. I routed mine up through the A pillar and to the headliner right above the head unit and it works flawless after having nothing but issues all over the dash and center console. I have just an average cheapo mic too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After looking for the same info, the consensus for best placement I found as you describe - A pillar, headliner as the windscreen acts as a parabolic reflector. This position yielded the best results in my scenario.
The advice I found was to not place on a pillar due to wind noise etc, which I found was good advice.