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Wow I am wanting to replace my usb miniport myself I have the AT&T Tilt 8925/HTC Kaiser. The other day I was trying to reset the phone In the Dark thought that I was pressing the reset button on the bottom of the phone, what was happening I had my styles in the usb port DAM IT!!!! Next thing you know I go to charge and the USB port just falls back I then open the unit, and find the usb port has broken from the motherboard, seems to be a pretty clean break, all I need is a new MINIPORT does anyone know where I can buy? An OEM port...
Please HELP!!!!
Afrojack
HELP USB Miniport Broke
Can someone help I have an issue, I broke my usb port, I have the phone opened, I was able to access the usb port it has been completely broken off the board, seems to be broken of clean no cracks on the board, all I need is the usb port does anyone know where I can buy a miniport? Also the correct size of the head for the Soldering pen? Is there anything else I may need to repair this issue. Keep in mind I have the phone open, and Have the ability, but if there is any more steps I may use I would really appreciate it. Thanks
AfroJack
Is this a common problem? Mine is now loose, and it will be so annoying of it breaks off the mobo.
I don't know anywhere where you can buy the miniport, but surely warrantee will cover fixing the miniport?...
I did almost the exact thing a couple days ago. I only noticed now from this post. My pins were bent but it didn't break. I had to bend it pretty far so my charger would work again. Do you have pictures of what it looks like from the inside? Maybe you can buy a cheap device with the same pin layout?
No Picture
No I dont could take one, the usb port broke off the board I have talked to PocketPCTechs.com They will sale me a USB Port for $25.00 dollars I wish they had a picture of it maybe I will call them for a picture. They also said they will fix it for $79.00 dollars. I would like to do myself but for 79.00 dollars well I think it is well worth it.
I had the same problem 25 for the part 0 for a local company to put it in. pocketpctechs does give you the mogul usb port which I think is better than what comes standard on my kaiser. (humorous fact htc wanted $350 and 3 wks to fix it)
its not covered under warranty its considered misuse
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=HTC_Kaiser
there are disassembly pics somewhere on this page, if your comfortable soldering it shouldn't be a problem. did it w/ my 8525.
Hey maybe you can extract the port from this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-HTC-MINI-US...ryZ20336QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I get one like the one I posted and it has the HTC symbol on it and everything. It looks OEM to me. Well the mini usb port on there to where you can plug in the headphones has all the pins on there and it seems like you would be able to just extract the one on the adapter for much cheaper. (around $5)
HTC repairs
I recently sent my kaiser to htc repairs USA austin tx and had to give them my credit card number. Anything they find broken not covered by the warranty they fix for $28 which seems cheap since you know they will repair it the right way. Also its oem parts
Hey I am currently living in Austin, TX for school. I just have an ATT Tilt and am not with ATT so I am probably not covered by anything.
damn, smaething happened to me , but it didnt broke off the phone, now that i look at it the usb thing its bend, now I know why the charger didnt want to plug in yesterday...
HTC has a one year warranty and as I stated befor they will fix non warranty items for only $28. That is what I was told when I sent in a Tilt that was not with AT&T.
I think mine must be bent or something too. The USB goes into it to charge, but it falls out really easily. It's not as big of a deal if i am charging it at my house and just leave it alone. The problem is when I'm in my car and it moves around and the charger falls out when it just slides a little bit.
taylor310 said:
I think mine must be bent or something too. The USB goes into it to charge, but it falls out really easily. It's not as big of a deal if i am charging it at my house and just leave it alone. The problem is when I'm in my car and it moves around and the charger falls out when it just slides a little bit.
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Thats how it started with my apache, now it doesnt charge at all. I found a site on google, search for PPC techs and they do the repair for $60, but you have to be without the phone for that time.
Tilt port repair from HTC USA
Called them about a port repair and was told it would probably be around $350 since it is part of the main board. Might be covered under warranty, up to the technician to determine if it is a normal failure or customer caused.
Too big a crap shoot!!
I just had the same thing happen, and they also told me it was "user error" and that it would be $300+ to fix...... this is clearly a manufacturing/design error and should be covered by warranty!
Big_Dutch said:
I just had the same thing happen, and they also told me it was "user error" and that it would be $300+ to fix...... this is clearly a manufacturing/design error and should be covered by warranty!
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Just bumping this thread because I have the same problem. One of the metal pins inside the usb port ended up being "pushed down" so my phone wouldn't charge/connect to activesync.
It might be time to move on from an HTC phone, I guess.
The phone was a refurb though, and I've had it for 8 months.
Hi guys. I've been a member of this forum for a fair while now and you guys are the most helpful, wonderful and pleasant people to ask appropriate questions to, so I pray that a fellow statesman can help me with this problem.
I hooked up my TyTn II to my PC yesterday and noticed it wasn't working, trying everything software didn't help. I pulled the USB cord out and to my surprise, the furthest right pin was pointing a little bit wrong. So, I spent an hour carefully moving it back in place, connected it up, worked.
I have two methods of hooking up, one to my PC and another to a wall charger that came with my BluANT Bluetooth Car Kit. After reading that non-standard ports on anything other than an official HTC product can bend and damage pins because of the way they are designed or somesuch, I became a little paranoid.
But, everything was working fine.
Until this morning.
The furthest right pin was ON TOP of the pin to the left of it. I spent another hour moving it back in place, tried to plug it in to the computer, didn't want to go all the way in. I did not jam it. I did not push it. Looking at the pins I saw that the furthest right has completely ****ed itself. I can't see exactly if it's snapped or just bent right around, but it won't sync and it won't charge.
Fonebiz are apparently the HTC repair people in Australia, is it possible that the whole chargeport can just be replaced and I can have my phone back relatively soon?
Answers as soon as you can guys, I really can't go without a phone for long.
P.S. It's Friday and I'm getting an engaged signal everytime I call their Adelaide office.
Please help me.
EDIT: I am using a cooked ROM, running Touch Commander so it all looks legit on the surface, apart from the boot screen. I am hoping that this doesn't get the phone sent straight back to me, because it's a hardware issue. Am I correct?
darkstarwastaken said:
Fonebiz are apparently the HTC repair people in Australia, is it possible that the whole chargeport can just be replaced and I can have my phone back relatively soon?
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I'm not familiar with what repairs that company undertakes and how quickly but certainly if you've been reviewing these forums for a while you'll know there are plenty of companies elsewhere that offer a broken USB port repair service. There really is something wrong with whatever you're plugging in to your TyTN II or how you're doing it. I've had mine since they first came out (bought it here in the UK at the end of September 07) and haven't had a single problem with the port despite regular usage of my charging cradle, non HTC official AC Adapter (the original HTC one blew up after a couple of weeks and 4 recharges), 3-in-1 USB adapter and 3 HTC Headsets. All pins are still straight as a die and connections rock solid. I'm careful not to get any dirt in it and always gently plug in the device straight on.
EDIT: I am using a cooked ROM, running Touch Commander so it all looks legit on the surface, apart from the boot screen. I am hoping that this doesn't get the phone sent straight back to me, because it's a hardware issue. Am I correct?
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If you're wanting it repaired under warranty there are instructions in the wiki about restoring your device to it's 'as from the factory' state and you could use the micrSD method to restore all except your spl - that final step needs a working USB port (one of the risks in running a non-official setup while under warranty). I don't know what your chances are but I suspect a little better if only the spl is non-official than the whole lot (irrespective of what it looks like on the surface). Even if you have to pay for the port to be replaced though, as long as it's just a case of soldering in the new connector, that service doesn't cost the earth (at least from the American website I saw offering the service).
In all honesty Kiwi, I think the guy I bought the phone from didn't take care of it in the short time he had it.
But I got a TyTn II for $250 AUD. I'm happy to spend $80 odd to get it repaired in a neighbouring state.
Thank you for your words of wisdom, I am having it repaired as we speak.
Does anyone know how to initiate a JTAG with out the riff box. Im more than capable of jtaging and have tons of tools as I am an electrical engineering student. Im not getting definitive answers from people online they all want me to send the my phone and $50 to them. I know you can get RIFF software from theyre site but I wont pay $150 for the RIFF box.
adam oulter has also suggested this is possible in a thread but he never tried it. he seems to have an idea of what you need. like a computer with a parallel port and software but i think he is trying to avoid the need to try it untill he has a way to force download mode and flash the normal way even with bad bootloaders or param.ifs. that is what he is actively developing and he wants the jtag to be a backup, and the riffbox service from connexion is a backup for his backup.
re:
I spoke with someone from mobile tech videos on youtube about jtagging with out RIFF he said "ORT Tool or maybe the SPT box but both require the same level of soldering. I must warn you though, the Captivate is most likely harder to solder than anything you have ever done. It's pads are .1mm in size and spacing and I know many electrical engineers that consider it extremely challenging." Im just freaking out because my baby (captivate) is dead. Maybe Ill just go play dumb at AT&T or blame it on KIES since Ive seen people say the bricked the bootloader with kies
if the phone doesnt boot they cant prove anything.
Dont blame it on keis. none of the keis updates touch bootloaders. so this should not happen. dont blame bootloaders at all.
ALL YOU SAY "it stopped working. i woke up, it was dead"
THATS ALL YOU NEED TO SAY.
Dani897 said:
adam oulter has also suggested this is possible in a thread but he never tried it. he seems to have an idea of what you need. like a computer with a parallel port and software but i think he is trying to avoid the need to try it untill he has a way to force download mode and flash the normal way even with bad bootloaders or param.ifs. that is what he is actively developing and he wants the jtag to be a backup, and the riffbox service from connexion is a backup for his backup.
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That about sums it up... however we are exploring UART, I2C, Serial, USB, and all other methods of communications supported by the Application processor... maybe even tunnling though the call processor into the application processor... Basically, if we can get something into memory and then tell the processor to execute that code, we'd be in business.
There's about 25 total external pins available on the phone, two of which we believe make up the "EXT-I2C" bus. This would allow almost direct communication with the Application Processor and OneNand. .... Gotta find those pins.
There's nearly 20 test-points on the main-board inside the phone... 5 of those testpoints are likely the "OM" pins. If we can locate and apply 3.7VDC to OM5, then we can get the memory value OM=9 to change to OM=10+ which would allow booting from the external MMC card.
Research still needs to be done and the single diagnostic output we have located thus far is UART which uses the USB port... 619kohm resistor between pins 4-5, and read/write to D+ and D- on the USB port.
All of these things need help. You can help with your brick. Bricks will put out UART communications.
UGART3 said:
I spoke with someone from mobile tech videos on youtube about jtagging with out RIFF he said "ORT Tool or maybe the SPT box but both require the same level of soldering. I must warn you though, the Captivate is most likely harder to solder than anything you have ever done. It's pads are .1mm in size and spacing and I know many electrical engineers that consider it extremely challenging." Im just freaking out because my baby (captivate) is dead. Maybe Ill just go play dumb at AT&T or blame it on KIES since Ive seen people say the bricked the bootloader with kies
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You can contact Connexion2005. He can JTAG your phone. it's been made easy now because I located the proper jacks and recepticals, and had a couple of receptical circuitboards made for JTAG.
Just to clarify...... my definition of brick...
1. black screen
2. unresponsive to buttons or button combos
3. appears to operate equally with or without the battery
4. 301Kohm resistor between USB pins 4-5 is not effective
If it does not meet those qualifications, then it's not really bricked. it just needs to have software reloaded.
Im gonna give the jig a whirl just in case. i think I got a waranty on my phone so if jig dont work I may just tell ATT its stolen, get a new one and use the old one for testing. Ill post results of the jig afterwards. Can I just use a micro usb wall plug for jig, I only got 1 USB-micro cable and I aint cutting it lol.
Which jig? Usb or uart?
I tried to just use resistors only and I had 270k and 39k ohms which reads 298.8k on my DMM and on mobile tech videos he said he did it with 295k so it should work......but it didnt. Ripped apart my ONLY micro usb cable cable tried to touch the leads to the resistors......nothing ://....soldering Iron is warming up gotta make sure leads are solid.
Well I guess its off to AT&T lol cuz it aint doin nothin right now. Its $125 deductible If i say i lost it so no candidate for a lab rat. Now i gotta rock this busted old cracked screen samsung solstice til I get my new one. I appreciate your help immensely guys, this is why I love this community.
The RIFF will run you closer to $225 after shipping as it's all overseas and they only ship with big carriers and ground shipping.
I've been pricing them at $190 on ebay.
AdamOutler said:
I've been pricing them at $190 on ebay.
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This is true if you can find the parcel post China sellers. Good luck if you ever need support though or a return! There are definitely some defective boxes floating around that will have you pulling out your hair until your realize it's a RIFF hardware defect. One of my boxes I believe has an issue with i897 ressurection and has me thinking it's why I was successful on the the i897 I did a few days back.
Hi to all can someone tell me how to open riff jtag manager without box
AdamOutler said:
Just to clarify...... my definition of brick...
1. black screen
2. unresponsive to buttons or button combos
3. appears to operate equally with or without the battery
4. 301Kohm resistor between USB pins 4-5 is not effective
If it does not meet those qualifications, then it's not really bricked. it just needs to have software reloaded.
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I have a captivate board that you can have if you want it. I believe that it is softbricked. Though due to the busted screen I can't say for sure. I have a T959D screen that doesn't have a board which I have dremeled here and there to be able to accept the captivate board which you can have too.
If you can cover shipping it's yours or if I pay shipping could you help me with unbricking my SGH-I727R. I bricked it during a failed ODIN flashing of clockworkmod. For some reason the partition box got auto ticked the second time by the time I stopped my wide eyed loud inhale "OHHH NOO" it was all over.
I can get QHUSB mode. At least I was able to until the USB gave out. I had another USB board but it came from a corroded phone and during the cleaning I knocked off two resistors. I salvaged the same two resistors I knocked off from a the broken board. The person I got the phone from somehow managed to melt the USB cable to the phone, how this was achieved I haven't a clue.
Anyway I haven't gotten around to soldering the resistors to the board yet, I was waiting for a new soldering iron to come come in. It did the other day and I have to pick it up. Sorry for the rambling if you would like the captivate board to play with and or the T959D's screen let me know and we can arrange shipping etc...Thanks
I've been using this Xperia Z for about 2 years now, I haven't root it or anything like that. It started a few weeks ago after a drop (I'm not sure if it's related, the drop was quite mild compared to everything it has been through). The battery fell out, because I got the mic replaced from water damage and the technician did a lousy job gluing the backplate back on, I also removed it myself to help it recover from a second water damage a few months ago.
Now, the phone seems to be having problems with its USB port. Either that or it's a software problem. When I plug it in my wall charger, it detects its but won't charge until the battery is completely empty (htt p://postimg.org/image/z3lvehtxn/). No pc will detect it when plugged in via USB (MTP & MSC mode tried with and without USB debugging), so I can't flash any roms to it try to fix it, it has also been factory reset twice. Tried different chargers and cables, none of them made any difference.
Yes, I should probably get a new phone, but as a broke student I don't have a lot of money to spare
you can eliminate the possibility of a software related issue by flashing smth from the external sd card, even try flashing another kernel just to make sure, if not that then im sorry but it should be hardware
the drop was quite mild compared to everything it has been through
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The battery fell out
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Well.... thats "mild drop"...
Not to mention that Battery is self is glued to housing(two peaces of double side tape, to be more precise) and everytime when I had to mess with internal of XZ it was actually pain to remove it without brutal force.
Other thing worth mentioning is that battery on XZ is really... sensitive, especially controllers inside battery and pins on connector. Even slightly damage can totally brick your phone.
And microUSB connector? Its hard to tell, but I can say that connector is self is not damaged, because as you mentioned, PC detect is without a problem, the same with charger. In terms of durability I can say that microUSB port on XZ is actually one of best I encounter. Its damn hard to damage it as far as you dont put there screwdriver..
I can say that fist of all, as @aaronkatrini mentioned back up what you need, and then flash new clean rom, if problem is still there, its probably battery it self or one of controller that was damaged. In the first case, new battery should cost about 10-15Euro(original) in second case you are more screwed because cost of repair/new board is unprofitable.
Also taking in to the account that XZ new cost now about 120Euro(I love that price falls of phones jump from 600 to 120 in less than 3years...) I could say that you can buy BETTER phone for 120-150Euro, even Xperia Z1Compact or Xperia Z2 cost 150-200Euro.
Student or not, 150euro is not much if you use phone for work so with small savings you could buy it in less than two months, and trust me, Xperia Z1Compact still can kick ass even if it have smaller screen.
Akinaro said:
Well.... thats "mild drop"...
Not to mention that Battery is self is glued to housing(two peaces of double side tape, to be more precise) and everytime when I had to mess with internal of XZ it was actually pain to remove it without brutal force.
Other thing worth mentioning is that battery on XZ is really... sensitive, especially controllers inside battery and pins on connector. Even slightly damage can totally brick your phone.
And microUSB connector? Its hard to tell, but I can say that connector is self is not damaged, because as you mentioned, PC detect is without a problem, the same with charger. In terms of durability I can say that microUSB port on XZ is actually one of best I encounter. Its damn hard to damage it as far as you dont put there screwdriver..
I can say that fist of all, as @aaronkatrini mentioned back up what you need, and then flash new clean rom, if problem is still there, its probably battery it self or one of controller that was damaged. In the first case, new battery should cost about 10-15Euro(original) in second case you are more screwed because cost of repair/new board is unprofitable.
Also taking in to the account that XZ new cost now about 120Euro(I love that price falls of phones jump from 600 to 120 in less than 3years...) I could say that you can buy BETTER phone for 120-150Euro, even Xperia Z1Compact or Xperia Z2 cost 150-200Euro.
Student or not, 150euro is not much if you use phone for work so with small savings you could buy it in less than two months, and trust me, Xperia Z1Compact still can kick ass even if it have smaller screen.
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Maybe it's time for a new phone.
The guy who repaired my phone took the battery out and didn't even glue it back on, so it comes off easily. All the pc I tried to connect it to won't detect the phone, so it's impossible to flash it with a PC. Is it possible to flash a new rom with an SD card? I remember doing so with an Acer A500 to fix a wifi issue and it worked.
AgVargr said:
Maybe it's time for a new phone.
The guy who repaired my phone took the battery out and didn't even glue it back on, so it comes off easily. All the pc I tried to connect it to won't detect the phone, so it's impossible to flash it with a PC. Is it possible to flash a new rom with an SD card? I remember doing so with an Acer A500 to fix a wifi issue and it worked.
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Yes you can, root with kingroot, flash the recovery, boot into recovery and flash. Read first
aaronkatrini said:
Yes you can, root with kingroot, flash the recovery, boot into recovery and flash. Read first
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Root was a success, still figuring out how to flash without a PC
Will update
I have a Razer Phone 2 with the infamous non-working USB C port. There seems to be very little supply for the board itself unless it's a used part and those seem to be farelt expensive. Looking at a teardown video of the phone it looks as though the port itself is attached to a flimsy ribbon type cable attachment. If anyone has any experience with this specific part could you please tell me if there are solder points that could be either reconnected or replaced with a completely new port without replacing the whole board? A friend of mine has a a fair bit of know how when it comes to doing repairs of this sort, but I'd hate to take it apart to try and replace the port it self and risk damaging the seal of the device for no reason at all if this procedure is not even possible without a replacement of the full part. Thank you in advance for any replies. I know this question might be a long shot, but we are just trying to weigh our options and figured someone on here might have the experience to point us in the right direction.
murderfacexx87 said:
I have a Razer Phone 2 with the infamous non-working USB C port. There seems to be very little supply for the board itself unless it's a used part and those seem to be farelt expensive. Looking at a teardown video of the phone it looks as though the port itself is attached to a flimsy ribbon type cable attachment. If anyone has any experience with this specific part could you please tell me if there are solder points that could be either reconnected or replaced with a completely new port without replacing the whole board? A friend of mine has a a fair bit of know how when it comes to doing repairs of this sort, but I'd hate to take it apart to try and replace the port it self and risk damaging the seal of the device for no reason at all if this procedure is not even possible without a replacement of the full part. Thank you in advance for any replies. I know this question might be a long shot, but we are just trying to weigh our options and figured someone on here might have the experience to point us in the right direction.
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I have the same problem. And since sending it back to Razer( don't get me started on how much there customer support sucks!) would cost more than buying a used phone 2. I am thinking to replace the port. Did you have any luck?
I work in a repair shop where I get these from time to time. You can try a used charge port board, but that doesn't always fix it and that seems to be a temporary fix. I have yet to find the root cause of the charging bootloop on the nearly dozen rp2's I have