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Hey guys,
Im looking to unbrick my G1 (no bootloader). I have asked some questions previously but haven't had the time to do anything besides that up to now.
I haven't had any luck here in India locating what I need with confidence, but today I happened across a helpful website.
Could anyone tell me if this is what Im looking for?
wiggler-clone
robokits.co.in/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=240
pc-serial
robokits.co.in/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_64&products_id=64
The wiggler look-a-like says its compatible with GCC OCD.
The pc-serial page offers a driver under the name of pl230.
I am hoping to be able to follow the unbrick page here: wiki.cyanogenmod.com/index.php?title=JTAG_for_Dream/Magic
Thanks
The unbrick process originated on this forum and was really moved along by member ezterry. You really ought to read the threads here in the dev section about this. They do tend to be long, but there is every bit of information you could possibly want to know about unbricking a dream.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5911627&postcount=302
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5934885&postcount=6
thanks for the links. i am currently working through the multitude of posts.
Hey,
I am learning a lot and have what i think is my last issue before i order some parts. The pc-serial cable should be at 2.8 v but i only have access to converters that give 5 v output.
I first consulted the datasheet for the pl2303hx (link provided above) which states:
"RS-232 VDD. The RS-232 output signals (Pin 1 ~ Pin 3) are
designed for 5V, 3.3V or 3V operation. VDD_232 should be
connected to the same power level of the RS-232 interface.
(The RS-232 input signals are always 5V~3V tolerant.)"
which was a little confusing, so i consulted the vendor:
"It will output 5V if the jumper is shorted or else it will be 0V. But the unit is self powered and can accept 3.3V input and output levels.
which is self contradictory. but, from what i gather, the serial output will be the same as the usb input.
Lastly, from this google group discussion:
groups.google.com/group/android-platform/msg/bf66abf4515132fb
Someone states that they used an lm317 circuit to drop voltage to 2.8, and it seems like this is the route ill take.
Question is, which voltage do i control? I think if i drop usb vcc voltage i should be good?
I think i just going to buy it and see, whats 400 INR anyways (its like 8 bucks)
salsavirdi said:
"RS-232 VDD. The RS-232 output signals (Pin 1 ~ Pin 3) are
designed for 5V, 3.3V or 3V operation. VDD_232 should be
connected to the same power level of the RS-232 interface.
(The RS-232 input signals are always 5V~3V tolerant.)"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can't understand that, then you should find someone to assist you who does.
I suppose im being a overly paranoid, and would like some corroboration. Id really hate to fry my phone, im rather attached to it.
Has anyone had success pairing their Galaxy Tab to any bluetooth device using the Serial Port Profile? Description of woes below...
Alright, I went into buying the Verizon Galaxy Tab understanding a somewhat nerfed bluetooth stack, I have intentions on trying to correct this later, but for the time being it doesn't really bother me all that much. I found this page prior to purchasing: http://ars.samsung.com/customer/usa...=2&PROD_SUB_ID=2076&PROD_ID=2083&AT_ID=346816 which outlines that it does in fact support SPP (Serial Port Profile). I got all excited about this, ordered up a BlueSmirf from sparkfun and set out to make a based device for all my electrical engineering serial monitoring needs. I'm sitting here with my shiny red box of parts, and I decided to make sure the BlueSmirf module worked. I powered it up on a bench supply and after RTFM and a couple of Doh moments I had it sucking down 0.030A, happy days. So then I tried to connect to it with my Galaxy Tab... which failed, miserably, I can't even find the device. My Droid 1 connects like a champ, and the serial app I prototyped using the App Inventor hums right along, sending and recieving serial data like its supposed to. A little more investigation (and this may be indicative of an issue on the BlueSmirf end) shows that every time my Galaxy Tab scans for Bluetooth devices the power usage on my bluetooth module drops to 0A. This is my first go with bluetooth (I've worked with ~900mhz rf before and GPS) so I'm not wholly sure what to make of this.
Did you ever get this figured out? I was hoping that it could be done easily via app inventor and a small script attached to a button to issue commands to an Arduino Uno.
What kind of range are you getting with that BlueSmirf? I am considering getting a Bluetooth Mate Gold for a robotics project of mine. I want to communicate using my T-Mobile G2 and also maybe a tablet.
Any help you can offer I would greatly appreciate!
Tom
the ec02 update for verizon moved bt support to the HID stack.
you can find the old, dj11 files, which support the SPP stack, in a sticky in the dev section, i believe.
I've been trying to get an older (2007?) version of a BlueSMiRF to pair/connect with my Vibrant running Bionix-v 1.3.1 with absolutely no success. The Vibrant doesn't even see the BlueSMiRF during a Scan for devices. My MacBook Pro pairs and communicates with the BlueSMIRF with no problems, and the Vibrant talks to the MacBook Pro and a Bluetooth headset with no issues.
Maybe there's an issue with Samsung's Bluetooth hardware or drivers?
- Chris
TheCodeBenders said:
Has anyone had success pairing their Galaxy Tab to any bluetooth device using the Serial Port Profile? Description of woes below...
Alright, I went into buying the Verizon Galaxy Tab understanding a somewhat nerfed bluetooth stack, I have intentions on trying to correct this later, but for the time being it doesn't really bother me all that much. I found this page prior to purchasing: http://ars.samsung.com/customer/usa...=2&PROD_SUB_ID=2076&PROD_ID=2083&AT_ID=346816 which outlines that it does in fact support SPP (Serial Port Profile). I got all excited about this, ordered up a BlueSmirf from sparkfun and set out to make a based device for all my electrical engineering serial monitoring needs. I'm sitting here with my shiny red box of parts, and I decided to make sure the BlueSmirf module worked. I powered it up on a bench supply and after RTFM and a couple of Doh moments I had it sucking down 0.030A, happy days. So then I tried to connect to it with my Galaxy Tab... which failed, miserably, I can't even find the device. My Droid 1 connects like a champ, and the serial app I prototyped using the App Inventor hums right along, sending and recieving serial data like its supposed to. A little more investigation (and this may be indicative of an issue on the BlueSmirf end) shows that every time my Galaxy Tab scans for Bluetooth devices the power usage on my bluetooth module drops to 0A. This is my first go with bluetooth (I've worked with ~900mhz rf before and GPS) so I'm not wholly sure what to make of this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hello! im new to this forum, and this is my first thread so sorry if i happen to be posting this in the wrong place, but ive been looking all over trying to find a remedy to my problem so now im turning to the forums for help.
i have a newly acquired 2010 chevy malibu LTZ, with a freshly installed pioneer SPH-DA120 APPRADIO 4 double din headunit. it loooks amazing, and it works great with an exception of a HUGE headache. i have a google nexus 6, and ive been told multiple times this phone is compatible with android auto, and i have even seen videos of it working, but i cant get i to work at all on my head unit. now mind you my headunit is compatible with car play, mirrorlink, and appradio and theres videos of it running android auto. my problem lies when i plug the phone into the unit, the only message i get is an error on the unit reading "incompatible usb". the device ans the headunit are at the latest firmware, and as added measure, i reset the device, and tried applying the parking brake, and enabling USB debuggind, all with the same end result. im at my wits end trying to figure this out, someone help please!
Mikeno11 said:
hello! im new to this forum, and this is my first thread so sorry if i happen to be posting this in the wrong place, but ive been looking all over trying to find a remedy to my problem so now im turning to the forums for help.
i have a newly acquired 2010 chevy malibu LTZ, with a freshly installed pioneer SPH-DA120 APPRADIO 4 double din headunit. it loooks amazing, and it works great with an exception of a HUGE headache. i have a google nexus 6, and ive been told multiple times this phone is compatible with android auto, and i have even seen videos of it working, but i cant get i to work at all on my head unit. now mind you my headunit is compatible with car play, mirrorlink, and appradio and theres videos of it running android auto. my problem lies when i plug the phone into the unit, the only message i get is an error on the unit reading "incompatible usb". the device ans the headunit are at the latest firmware, and as added measure, i reset the device, and tried applying the parking brake, and enabling USB debuggind, all with the same end result. im at my wits end trying to figure this out, someone help please!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The head unit isn't compatible with Android Auto. The Pioneer Avh-4100NEX runs Android Auto out of the box.
Sorry to bear bad news, but that model does not support "Android Auto": http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/AppRadio/AppRadio+4+(SPH-DA120)
It supports CP, "AppRadio" mode and Mirrorlink.
I think it's unlikely to be upgraded.
Well in that case does anybody know where I can get a cheap HDMI to micro USB splitter for app radio mode then..
Mikeno11 said:
Well in that case does anybody know where I can get a cheap HDMI to micro USB splitter for app radio mode then..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't answer that.
But if you are going with AppRadio, you may want to look into AppRadio Unchained or Reloaded; it seems a lot of people prefer it to AppRadio.
I have old OBD2 v1.5 adapter. Chinese, big one. Which pairs with HU and works well.
I wish to buy new one, that call 'mini'. I know I have to look for v1.5 (as 2.1 is a crap) and with PIC18F25K80 chip.
But I read that even much of these new mini are PIC based, that have some strange Mac address like AA:BB:CC:11:22:33.
Anyone has experience with such adapters? Do they pair and work with Torque on our HUs?
If anyone is using such an 'mini' adapter, please post link to eBay/AliExpress where you purchased it. Will be very grateful (and it may help other people here, too, as many have issues pairing/using crap adapters).
I personally bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-16-Pi...le-Diagnostic-Adapter-For-elm327/152700822059 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/2017-ELM32...uto-Car-Scanner-Scan-Tool-Cable-/112070132071 so I connected it over USB and only thing I've made is HW MOD to get ACC+ instead BAT+ from OBD2 so that it is powered only when Key is turned on.
Resolved pairing issue with no pairing and all works along with BT and WiFi free for other devices.
PekeMM said:
I personally bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-16-Pi...le-Diagnostic-Adapter-For-elm327/152700822059 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/2017-ELM32...uto-Car-Scanner-Scan-Tool-Cable-/112070132071 so I connected it over USB and only thing I've made is HW MOD to get ACC+ instead BAT+ from OBD2 so that it is powered only when Key is turned on.
Resolved pairing issue with no pairing and all works along with BT and WiFi free for other devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for sharing. I was not considering USB option, but it sounds interesting.
I see you both the 'big' one (same as my old one). And they really work very good.
But I would like to buy some of 'mini' models as my OBD2 port is in such place (under steering wheel and just above brake pedal) that big one is too big and my feet is hitting it while driving. Here is obe model I consider
Hardware V1.5 Chip PIC18F25K80 ELM327 Bluetooth V1.5 Auto Code Reader Super MINI ELM 327 Works ON Android Symbian FW V1.5 BEST
http://s.aliexpress.com/I3i26fy2
There are 2 models of these (not colours): old design with 2 PCB boards, and new one with just 1 board. I wonder if anyone has any of these?
pa.ko said:
But I would like to buy some of 'mini' models as my OBD2 port is in such place (under steering wheel and just above brake pedal) that big one is too big and my feet is hitting it while driving.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:silly: I do not see the problem there as if you checked both links from my post you would see that I use extension cable that do not have issue with connector position. Mine is located right above gas pedal so I could not drive car normally with any OBD Adapter unless I used extension cable.
pa.ko said:
Here is obe model I consider Hardware V1.5 Chip PIC18F25K80 ELM327 Bluetooth V1.5 Auto Code Reader Super MINI ELM 327 Works ON Android Symbian FW V1.5 BEST
http://s.aliexpress.com/I3i26fy2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PIC is programmed micro controller and not actual ELM327 see https://www.elmelectronics.com/products/ics/obd/ and v1.5 nor v2.1 exist officially as they are clones and you should use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.applagapp.elm327identifier to test actual model and support.
Re which one: I ordered 6 different models and kept two that worked flawlessly with my car 1 was broken (got refund) and resold other 3 to get my money back.
PekeMM said:
I personally bought so I connected it over USB and only thing I've made is HW MOD to get ACC+ instead BAT+ from OBD2 so that it is powered only when Key is turned on.
Resolved pairing issue with no pairing and all works along with BT and WiFi free for other devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you mod this?
gazenbeek said:
How did you mod this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is fairly simple MOD:
1. Soldered positive wire of lighter connector that have power only when Ignition is turned on.
2. Bought FLAT cable that I can easily cut the wires like in picture s-l1600.jpg
3. Cut Wire on pin 16 BAT power see ODBII%20Master%20Pinout.jpg
4. Connected wire that goes to OBDII to Positive wire I prepared in step 1
5. Connected OBDII to connector from FLAT CABLE
6. Connected USB to HU SINGLE USB CABLE
7. Tested if all works with Toque
8. Used cable ties to secure all cabling behind dashboard
and now I enjoy the all the diags on HU
PekeMM said:
so I connected it over USB and only thing I've made is HW MOD to get ACC+ instead BAT+ from OBD2 so that it is powered only when Key is turned on.
Resolved pairing issue with no pairing and all works along with BT and WiFi free for other devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this info, very helpful, just got Android 8 Eonon 2170, and I've been struggling to pair OBD, Kiwi 3 doesn't show (BLE not supported? Don't know), Tomtom unit won't pair, no name unit seems to work, but, I've thought, why not USB, started searching for USB Android supported, luckily came across your post.
To change BATT to ACC, is that just so it's ' done properly'?
Surely battery drain would be miniscule, or not? I guess makes sense to have it not powered all the time.
Going by your posts, so, some of these units didn't work properly,ECU side or Android side? Thanks again, A
I just looked into factory settings, there is a CANBUS section, currently set to NONE, should that that altered to car maker's CANBUS ?
abbots said:
Thanks for this info, very helpful, just got Android 8 Eonon 2170, and I've been struggling to pair OBD, Kiwi 3 doesn't show (BLE not supported? Don't know), Tomtom unit won't pair, no name unit seems to work, but, I've thought, why not USB, started searching for USB Android supported, luckily came across your post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I helped someone
abbots said:
To change BATT to ACC, is that just so it's ' done properly'?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is safe no issues at all
abbots said:
Surely battery drain would be miniscule, or not? I guess makes sense to have it not powered all the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the problem that it drains a ot but all small drains can pile up so eventually you have a problem. I have park mode security enabled on my dashcam system so it drains some, OBDII can drain a littl, but it is known that in some cases keeps ECU awake that can drain a lot due teh number of sensors it keeps awake also
abbots said:
Going by your posts, so, some of these units didn't work properly,ECU side or Android side? Thanks again, A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All was ECU side due the different pinouts see my pics, I have seen in the past several USB -> COM chips that are not supported on Android due the OEM build and specific drivers like some factory that are not recognized on laptop till you install their licensed software (Usually JUNGO Based Drivers).
---------- Post added at 00:24 ---------- Previous post was at 00:20 ----------
abbots said:
I just looked into factory settings, there is a CANBUS section, currently set to NONE, should that that altered to car maker's CANBUS ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only if you got specific cables with canbus decoder (black little box). even then USB OBDII is used to diagnostic and clear codes. I use Toque 1.83 and it works on one unit that v1.52 didn't worked with. Usually ELM v1.5 works better than v2.1
thanks! I have now got USB OBD unit 1.5 (still need splitter/extender), tried yesterday with Torque as well as with Palmer's DashCommand:
it kinda worked - during first trip, 45min, Torque app crashed twice or more, worked after restart, on return trip, DashCommand also choked once or twice, thenm I relaized, as fuel tank level is not reported, unless I run app 100% of the time, fuel consumption won't be correct - and, realsiticall, I need TomTom on the screen more than gauges....
I see there are OBD spliters that 'allow' two or three OBD devices plugged in, wouldn't you know, is it OK to split/use multiple OBDs ?
like, I have TomTom 'Curfer' OBD data logger - just logs 'quality of driving", thoiught to get splitter to log data, AND, if so desire, call gauges on screen ?
thanks for explaing CANBUS!
do you use TPMS tyre pressure units, if so, which ones ? my radio has an app to read such, wonder if it's worth it ?
I have connected my USB OBD. Torque not recognised device. How to check that Scanner is properly installed on android system?
OBD scanner is generic just like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELM327-USB-Interface-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B00IWLLX1Y
BTW I have MTCE with android 8.0 with KLD MCU.
Torque lite ain't work with android/usb, only in bluetooth mode.
I have torque pro so there is no problem there.
Any way problem solved. Bought Bluetooth version.
I've given up on the Google Forums, looking for some relief here. Last September we bought a new 2017 Honda CRV. Great car, except...
It worked for several months, now I can't get AA to remain connected at all. I think I have been through everything. I just tried the recommended high quality Belikin 3.1 USB cord, it didn't make any difference. Tried other cords as well. This is so frustrating. One of the main reasons we went with the Honda over the Toyota was the availability of Android Auto. Unfortunately, this has been a real excercise in frustration.
When I start the car (USB not connected at this point), Bluetooth connects and AA automatically starts up on my phone. After a few moments, I plug in the USB cord. On the CRV's home screen the blue Android Auto logo shows in the smartphone field. I tap it and my phone connects to the head. So far so good. However, within a minute Android Auto vanished from my phone's screen and on the car's display I get "Device Not Connected".
Has anyone else had/solved this problem? Any of you using an HTC phone? It's not like the phone disconnects, it seems more like AA on the phone just shuts itself off/crashes within a minute or two of starting, but what do I know? Here is the kicker, the system seems to work fine with my wife's Samsung Galaxy S7 phone, SM-G930V. I just went out for a little drive. The HTC refuses to remain connected, the Samsung did just fine.
Error message: On head, "Device Not Connected". AA on my phone just stops. It's like AA on the phone stops working causing a disconnect from the car. Here is more info about my system.
Car/Head Unit make & Model
2017 Honda CRV
Head model: MY16DA
Android Auto version 4.2.2
Kernel Version 3.1.10+
Build number 1.F195.80
HTC 10, model HTC6545LVW USB C cable
Verizon
Android 8.0.0
Android Auto version 3.4.582534-release
Google play services: ver. 12.8.72 (040400-202717283)
Developer Options >USB debugging enabled. USB set to MTP and also tried other settings.
Tried changing out HTC cords to no avail. Just purchased new Belikin USB 3.1 cord. It didn't make any difference.
I have done a factory reset on my phone and on the Honda's display unit as well. I uninstalled HTC's Boost+, reset my phone's Bluetooth. I changed the battery settings on my phone to not optimize AA, Waze and Google Maps.
How can I fix this? Is there anyway out of this rabbit hole?
Switch USB debugging off change Bluetooth from 1.4 to 1.6 in the developers settings
Running into the same problem with an after-market Sony head unit (XAV-AX5000) and a Samsung Galaxy S7 (Oreo 8.0). I'll have to give the BT setting a try.
dq0 said:
Switch USB debugging off change Bluetooth from 1.4 to 1.6 in the developers settings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, didn't work. It seems to connect to the phone fine, but then it quickly disconnects, within seconds, or a minute or two. Posting on Honda thread, it doesn't seem to be an across the board problem, I think it's limited to my phone. Having said that on the AA forums there are plenty of complaints about connecting problems. I was hoping against hope that this forum might have a deeper understanding or possible resolutions.
SammyQ2 said:
Nope, didn't work. It seems to connect to the phone fine, but then it quickly disconnects, within seconds, or a minute or two. Posting on Honda thread, it doesn't seem to be an across the board problem, I think it's limited to my phone. Having said that on the AA forums there are plenty of complaints about connecting problems. I was hoping against hope that this forum might have a deeper understanding or possible resolutions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try turning Dev mode in AA. OPEN app go to About. Click on the title several times.
dq0 said:
Try turning Dev mode in AA. OPEN app go to About. Click on the title several times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm willing to try anything, I had no idea that setting existed. Sorry to say that it didn't work. Ugh.