My review of the Samsung Kvadrat case. - Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Ultra Accessories

Feels really nice but doesn't have much or any drop protection.

Some pics from your amusement. Lower part of case where the usb port is , very thin flimsy silicon.

There is the same "problem" or "design specificity" with the "U" shape. I am referring to the the fact that the screen itself is only protected on the vertical bars of the U and not on the horizontal bar of the U (most likely due to the fact that the screen bends into the phone side).
Also it seems on the second picture that the bulge of the camera lens is still going out with your case?
Do you use a protection for that camera lens, like some glass cover or something?

Update on my review after a few days of usage. Pinky finger fatigue due to the sharp edge of the lower back material meeting the silicon tpu , it's raised and cuts into pinky finger.
5 out of 10. Not worth it.
Going back to my Ringke Air and Spigen thin fit , both offer slightly better protection but more importantly more comfortable to hold at around 70% less in price .

htchd2sucks said:
There is the same "problem" or "design specificity" with the "U" shape. I am referring to the the fact that the screen itself is only protected on the vertical bars of the U and not on the horizontal bar of the U (most likely due to the fact that the screen bends into the phone side).
Also it seems on the second picture that the bulge of the camera lens is still going out with your case?
Do you use a protection for that camera lens, like some glass cover or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The lens area of the cover is raised slightly and yes I have a lens cover .

Limeybastard said:
Update on my review after a few days of usage. Pinky finger fatigue due to the sharp edge of the lower back material meeting the silicon tpu , it's raised and cuts into pinky finger.
5 out of 10. Not worth it.
Going back to my Ringke Air and Spigen thin fit , both offer slightly better protection but more importantly more comfortable to hold at around 70% less in price .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look at the Bolt case. Been using it for my 10+ for over a year. My favorite case ever.
Doesn't add much bulk, easy to hold and in spite of half dozen plus drops on concrete shows no damage*. 2 layer composite or 3 layer if you use the clip on back; it's very well protected in that configuration.
*replace one out of concern of corner fatigue from repeated same corner hits. At $20 a pop better safe than sorry...

blackhawk said:
Take a look at the Bolt case. Been using it for my 10+ for over a year. My favorite case ever.
Doesn't add much bulk, easy to hold and in spite of half dozen plus drops on concrete shows no damage*. 2 layer composite or 3 layer if you use the clip on back; it's very well protected in that configuration.
*replace one out of concern of corner fatigue from repeated same corner hits. At $20 a pop better safe than sorry...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's too lumpy, remember - death grip comment?

Limeybastard said:
It's too lumpy, remember - death grip comment?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, yeah. I don't notice that in actual use. It doesn't slip out of your hand easily.
I'm holding it by it's flip out stand as I pecked this out. A lot of ways to easily hold it.
Talking of death grips I have the Kyber 2 mountain boots which are great but they're a bear to lace up tight. Finally realized after straining a second first finger joint that the lace up was the cause. Damn finger strain hurts.
So I can see you crippling yourself with the wrong case

blackhawk said:
Lol, yeah. I don't notice that in actual use. It doesn't slip out of your hand easily.
I'm holding it by it's flip out stand as I pecked this out. A lot of ways to easily hold it.
Talking of death grips I have the Kyber 2 mountain boots which are great but they're a bear to lace up tight. Finally realized after straining a second first finger joint that the lace up was the cause. Damn finger strain hurts.
So I can see you crippling yourself with the wrong case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might treat myself to one for educational purposes since I'm giving up smoking lol.
Don't worry, I cripple myself just cutting hedges lately .

Limeybastard said:
I might treat myself to one for educational purposes since I'm giving up smoking lol.
Don't worry, I cripple myself just cutting hedges lately .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like cigars.
Good as long as you remember never to inhale... sometimes I forget, briefly

blackhawk said:
I like cigars.
Good as long as you remember never to inhale... sometimes I forget, briefly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd only be kidding myself with a cigar or a pipe. I'd stopped for 8 years until last year.
Reference the Zizo bolt case, are the insides soft or hard plastic?

Limeybastard said:
I'd only be kidding myself with a cigar or a pipe. I'd stopped for 8 years until last year.
Reference the Zizo bolt case, are the insides soft or hard plastic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
High density urethane. The last corner can be tough to put in. Fair warning: use care in this stage with a screen protector. Glass ones may not have clearance, not sure*. I use a piece of stretched teflon tape to protect the buttons and R/L side rails from dirt and make insertion easier.
Warming it in the sun etc may help... will try this next time.
Obviously you then the snap on polycarbonate back piece on last. This piece is stiff but almost impossible to break. Put the button side on first.
Button side is last when disassembling.
With the fold out stand: either leave it snapped in or use fully extended. The retaining pins can slip out if left loose in pocket. They can be put back in if not lost as I discovered one day. Otherwise it's surprisingly sturdy; I use it constantly.
*since it's urethane you can easily machine, cut, file, sand it if you need to but I recommend not to unless absolutely needed as that could reduce the level of protection.
Lol, it will be ok

blackhawk said:
High density urethane. The last corner can be tough to put in. Fair warning: use care in this stage with a screen protector. Glass ones may not have clearance, not sure*. I use a piece of stretched teflon tape to protect the buttons and R/L side rails from dirt and make insertion easier.
Warming it in the sun etc may help... will try this next time.
Obviously you then the snap on polycarbonate back piece on last. This piece is stiff but almost impossible to break. Put the button side on first.
Button side is last when disassembling.
With the fold out stand: either leave it snapped in or use fully extended. The retaining pins can slip out if left loose in pocket. They can be put back in if not lost as I discovered one day. Otherwise it's surprisingly sturdy; I use it constantly.
*since it's urethane you can easily machine, cut, file, sand it if you need to but I recommend not to unless absolutely needed as that could reduce the level of protection.
Lol, it will be ok
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What worries me, and it has done so since my using a hard inner plastic case in the past is damage to the frame of the device. Yes, dirt will cause this , but I regularly remove devices and dust out the frame and case. But with hard gizzarded cases I always seem to get micro marring or scratches on frames. Hence I've avoided them like a plague during the last 5 years.

Limeybastard said:
What worries me, and it has done so since my using a hard inner plastic case in the past is damage to the frame of the device. Yes, dirt will cause this , but I regularly remove devices and dust out the frame and case. But with hard gizzarded cases I always seem to get micro marring or scratches on frames. Hence I've avoided them like a plague during the last 5 years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It happens with soft silicon inner liners too
This really irritates me... to put it politely.
Therefor the teflon tape. It's a little tedious but it's cheap so you can practice.
No damage yet to my 10+ doing it this way.
I start just after the holes on the top, around the corner to as far as the first hole on the bottom.
I stretch it somewhat and try to keep it right below the screen. Same on other side but take the spen out them simply punch through the tape.
The stretch at the corners hold it in place.
It can get pushed out when putting on the case but that's just cosmetic. It can be pushed down but some while may show.
Seals it well from that damn grit.
If you have any better ideas, please share.

blackhawk said:
It happens with soft silicon inner liners too
This really irritates me... to put it politely.
Therefor the teflon tape. It's a little tedious but it's cheap so you can practice.
No damage yet to my 10+ doing it this way.
I start just after the holes on the top, around the corner to as far as the first hole on the bottom.
I stretch it somewhat and try to keep it right below the screen. Same on other side but take the spen out them simply punch through the tape.
The stretch at the corners hold it in place.
It can get pushed out when putting on the case but that's just cosmetic. It can be pushed down but some while may show.
Seals it well from that damn grit.
If you have any better ideas, please share.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep soft silicon as its name implies contains silicon , one can clearly see the micro marring on high polished silver frames when using these.

Limeybastard said:
Yep soft silicon as its name implies contains silicon , one can clearly see the micro marring on high polished silver frames when using these.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a polymer based on silicon, it is no more abrasive than soft plastics.
Silicone - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
It's actually the external grit that causes the marring. If you seal the surfaces completely from foriegn particles they will stay pristine.

blackhawk said:
It's a polymer based on silicon, it is no more abrasive than soft plastics.
Silicone - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
It's actually the external grit that causes the marring. If you seal the surfaces completely from foriegn particles they will stay pristine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen silicon cases marring stainless steel frames, and these were cleaned before , however, the device and the case were placed in a grip like a car phone holder . Using tpu or other plastics didn't cause marring. I've ran tests as nerdy as it sounds

Related

the "wanted" case project

Ok so i dont think many of us are impressed with the current available cases for out n7's
we seem to have to pick between protection-price-visual appeal.
we dont seem to have a case with all 3 .
so im implying my project idea,
im goin to check in at my old high school. where i remember in "Design&tech" we used "vacuum forming" machines to heat hard plastic sheets and re-mould them into covers and shapes over a pre-made wooden mould.
im goin to put forth an idea to create a case from shock-absorbent hard plastic front and back that either clip or screw closed. the next part of the project would be to imply some kind of clear glass screen area. one that conducts touch-responsiveness, good for display, and scratch/shatter resistance,.
im thinking after a few attempts we may be able to pre-cut the required "pattern" to perfectly fit to each edge while heat-moulding if so would could then attempt cutting the button/rocker area's then re-attaching them with a stretchy silicone between the actual button cover to make a professional finish to the buttons
so we would end up with a Hard shock resistant Full back/corner surface cover with clear scratch resistant full screen glass face and silicone set button rockers and attached plugs to insert into usb/headphone ports to keep out dust.
this is a 1 hour idea so far do you guys think its worth pursuing?
im think the school maybe interested as if this project works and can be made at a cheap price they could look into marketing it.
i would make sure xda'ers get a discount thou lol :good:
i too hate all the cases. ended up settling for a fitfolio which provides the protection i want without covering the edges of the screen.
however, the ideal case i think would be one that provide protection for corners, silver bezel (just the silver bezel, not wider), and raised edge for front protection. an added bonus would be a sturdy kickstand like the ones on the trident kraken case.
does it have to be hard plastic?
i think TPU material would be better for shock absorption.
TPU
I have an idea, we buy one of these or similar, then 2 small magnets in the nexus 7 back plate, then make a magnetically attached flap, like in the ipad
http://www.cruzerlite.com/cases/asus/nexus7/cruzerlite-androidified-clone-army-for-asus-nexus-7
Sagar96 said:
I have an idea, we buy one of these or similar, then 2 small magnets in the nexus 7 back plate, then make a magnetically attached flap, like in the ipad
http://www.cruzerlite.com/cases/asus/nexus7/cruzerlite-androidified-clone-army-for-asus-nexus-7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like the idea, and maybe add groves in the front flap so we can stand the device up to watch movies too?
chismay said:
Ok so i dont think many of us are impressed with the current available cases for out n7's
we seem to have to pick between protection-price-visual appeal.
we dont seem to have a case with all 3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to design one yourself go for it and let us see the results but don't try to get consensus on what is ideal because you will be waiting forever, you can't make a case that's all things to everybody.
NewbCentral said:
I like the idea, and maybe add groves in the front flap so we can stand the device up to watch movies too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im just wondering if i mount magnets in the inside of the back cover on the left hand side, will it affect any of the electronics (they will be mounted near the corners so it doesn't trigger the magnet switch. Then i can get my mom to sew me a flap with magnets, and have a legit apple style "smart cover"

I dropped my case enclosed Note 2 and...

So I'm looking at Note 2 cases and want something not too bulky but provides protection from accidental drops.
All these "I've dropped my Note 2 and it cracked" threads are freaking me out.
No case review site has test drops, so I'm looking to you and asking that you share your stories about dropping your phone, if it survived, and what case you had on.
I haven't seen a thread like this before so hope others will find it useful.
I personally have seen the Otterbox Defender on a friends Note2 and he dropped it many times with no problems.
However, that thing is ginormous, and doubles the size of the phone.
I'm looking for something that'll still fit in my pocket.
So my question to you:
1) what case?
2) dropped on what surface as how high?
3) what happened?
- nothing, works great!
- cosmetic damage, but screen good, works well.
- screen cracked...
- screen fine, but internal damage affecting functionality...
Thanks for your time!
go look at note 2 otterbox vids.on youtube... dude throws it out the second story window etc.
Cruzerlite. Had dropped out of the hip pocket of my sweats and I bent over to pick up a piece of mail I dropped out of the mail box. Was a pretty short drop, probably less than 2 feet as I was fully bent over when it fell out, and never in a million years would have imagined that small drop would have broke it. Not a bad break, just a hairline crack going from the home button to the ear piece.
FIREONHIGH said:
go look at note 2 otterbox vids.on youtube... dude throws it out the second story window etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the OP, he doesn't want anything that large.
Back on topic: I've dropped my note 2 about 3 or 4 times now, all without a case, all I have is a small, barely noticeable scratch in the chrome bezel and what I noticed the other day is on the bottom right corner the chrome seems to have been rubbed off somehow. I'm now using a samsung the case, seems like it'll provide pretty good protection for its size. It completely covers the chrome bezel, and the outer edge is a softer material so it should do some (albeit not much) shock absorption while the back of the case is hard plastic (and a fingerprint magnet, this must be why there's no black note 2 although one would have looked brilliant.)
I should also add that I've pretty much always dropped I on a wooden floor, which is a bit more forgiving than tiles or concrete
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda app-developers app
DeoreDX said:
Cruzerlite. Had dropped out of the hip pocket of my sweats and I bent over to pick up a piece of mail I dropped out of the mail box. Was a pretty short drop, probably less than 2 feet as I was fully bent over when it fell out, and never in a million years would have imagined that small drop would have broke it. Not a bad break, just a hairline crack going from the home button to the ear piece.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope that doesn't happen to my diztronic case that I bought. It's pretty similar to the cruzerlite case that you have
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
The problem with this thread is all drops are different. Unless you get enough sample of a certain drop for a specific case , you can't really generalize. The best you'll get here are a bunch of anecdotal samples.
For the most part though, the thicker the case, the better the protection. So get the thickest case you're willing to tolerate.
swyped all these spelling errors from my galaxy note 2
http://www.tech21.uk.com/Category/samsung_galaxy_note_2
Supposedly Tech21 has a line of cases for the Note 2 that has D3O strips that turn rock hard on impact to prevent damage to the phone on drops. The D3O material works much like cornstarch and water, which turns hard when you press on it.
Review of the case without cover:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af_AARLbKeA
Here's a youtube video of it in action being thrown onto the floor on another phone:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw0Kky6sZCA
If you're super scared of your note 2 breaking, maybe get a wallet type of case?
I've dropped my note 2 three times. The first and second one, it was in a wallet type flip case, after the drops, it was scratch-less.The third time I dropped it was when it was on a jelly case. I had it gripped by my armpit when it fell on the ground face down!! It was raining then too so I did panic quite a bit. Fortunately, my note 2 survived that fall without a single scratch too >
I'm only 5'2 so that may not be much of a fall. -__-
ichibanjay said:
http://www.tech21.uk.com/Category/samsung_galaxy_note_2
Supposedly Tech21 has a line of cases for the Note 2 that has D3O strips that turn rock hard on impact to prevent damage to the phone on drops. The D3O material works much like cornstarch and water, which turns hard when you press on it.
Review of the case without cover:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af_AARLbKeA
Here's a youtube video of it in action being thrown onto the floor on another phone:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw0Kky6sZCA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh wow, that's actually pretty amazing, are the strips enough though? looks like they're the thickness of sticky tape.
is the entire case not made of the stuff?
they make cases/bumpers made out of d30..how come the note only gets 2 tapes on the back?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtMNfSHfkv4
I bought the Tech21 D30 for my Note 2 before watching those videos, and I'm extremely happy with the case. I don't drop my phone often or anything, but I like to have something on the back to prevent scratches and dings from laying it on various tables, etc. The two times it has dropped 3-4, there are virtually no signs of it. The case grip could be better but then it wouldn't slide out of my pocket easily so there is always that trade-off to consider.
I'm ordering a wallet case from Story of the but I'm sure I'll continue to use this case as well due to how it keeps the phone fairly thin and manageable.
Sent from my Note II using the XDA Premium app
finalhit said:
oh wow, that's actually pretty amazing, are the strips enough though? looks like they're the thickness of sticky tape.
is the entire case not made of the stuff?
they make cases/bumpers made out of d30..how come the note only gets 2 tapes on the back?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtMNfSHfkv4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the videos. To think I was starting to believe their hype.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda premium
Why don't they make a bumper style case with a pinky-finger-thick bead of this stuff around the edges? Might add bulk, but I'd think it would be far better than any silicone or hardshell case.
If you find the OtterBox Defender too bulky, try the Commuter. It's thinner and still provides ample protection as it's a two piece case made from a silicone layer and a poly-carbonate hard shell. I can vouch for the level of protection they provide from past experiences (I had one on my GALAXY S II and dropped it by accident, landed face down and I was petrified that it would've damaged something... not so much as a scratch).
I have one on my GALAXY Note II and it fits very well - the buttons retain their tactile feel and "click" and it doesn't make the phone harder to hold or use in any way.
ichibanjay said:
http://www.tech21.uk.com/Category/samsung_galaxy_note_2
Supposedly Tech21 has a line of cases for the Note 2 that has D3O strips that turn rock hard on impact to prevent damage to the phone on drops. The D3O material works much like cornstarch and water, which turns hard when you press on it.
Review of the case without cover:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af_AARLbKeA
Here's a youtube video of it in action being thrown onto the floor on another phone:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw0Kky6sZCA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in the tech21 case, it works well since its a different layer and it just distributes the force evenly across the layer to minimise damage.
with other cases though, hard cases are a double edged sword. hard plastic and metal cases may be pretty to look at, but hard plastic and metal cases also amplify vibrations, which can cause damage to the internals of your phone and to your screen. normally i'd say avoid cases where most of the hard material is in direct contact with the case. ie. only go for hard plastic if theres a silicone/tpu layer between the plastic and the case. and only go for aluminium cases/bumpers if theres a layer of soft material between the metal and the case. this way, the vibrations are dampened before they reach your device.

How to remove Glue from Edges-Frame

Hello gyuz,
As mentioned in another thread in Accessories sub-forum, while Installing the Whitestone Dome Screen Protector (https://www.whitestonedome.com/) on my Samsung Galaxy Note 8, there was UV glue spillage all around the phone & now I have dried (UV cured) glue in the tiniest gap between the screen edges and the metal frame of the phone. Please check attached image, I have circled with red the exact location of the glue, however imagine this almost all around the phone:
Now I need a good UV glue remover to soften the dried glue and an extremely thin blade (or a similar tool) to reach in the gap and remove it. I saw some products on ebay, however I am not sure which will do the job.
First of all which Glue Remover is more suitable? Does it have to be a branded one? Or the unbranded ones will do the job as well? Is there danger that the remover will dry and stay in the gap making it worse? Will it damage the color or consistency of the metal frame? Will it damage the buttons (Power, Volum, Bixby)?
Secondly, which tool should do the job reaching such tiny gap while at the same time not scratching the screen or the metal frame? Metal Blade? Plastic Blade? Wire? Some other tool?
Please advise, as I am nearly desperate. Thank you!
Damn, I'm sorry you're having to deal with this. This is one of the biggest reasons why I don't use screen protectors on my phones. I've used a glass one on my Note 5 but didn't like it. Naked display feels the best and performs the best. Not fuss, no glue, no BS. Eeek!
roaduardo said:
Damn, I'm sorry you're having to deal with this. This is one of the biggest reasons why I don't use screen protectors on my phones. I've used a glass one on my Note 5 but didn't like it. Naked display feels the best and performs the best. Not fuss, no glue, no BS. Eeek!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree with everything. if i had the chance again I would leave it naked, however I would still feel very uncomfortable without protection.. Actual screen exposed to everything is a little risky!
OP, wish I could advise you, but all I can say is take your time and don't rush this task. Since as you aware, you don't want to use a chemical or item that will damage the frame or buttons. Don't use any metal objects.
Feel for you bro, you go ahead with good intentions to protect your device and now in a predicament.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Limeybastard said:
OP, wish I could advise you, but all I can say is take your time and don't rush this task. Since as you aware, you don't want to use a chemical or item that will damage the frame or buttons. Don't use any metal objects.
Feel for you bro, you go ahead with good intentions to protect your device and now in a predicament.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your understanding mate. Indeed tried for the best and ended up worse.
I am not rushing for now, just conctacted Whitestone themselves asking advise on how to fix it, as well as an ebay seller that sells such equipment/tools. He suggested me these:
http://ebay.eu/2g3RySr
http://ebay.eu/2kATYJV
I am not sure about the quality of the Glue Remover and how thin the tools (blades & spudger) are though. Have to make a little research.
That is why also I opened the thread to ask for opinions from people that may have done this or similar task before and to help others in the future.
Warlord1981 said:
Thanks for your understanding mate. Indeed tried for the best and ended up worse.
I am not rushing for now, just conctacted Whitestone themselves asking advise on how to fix it, as well as an ebay seller that sells such equipment/tools. He suggested me these:
http://ebay.eu/2g3RySr
http://ebay.eu/2kATYJV
I am not sure about the quality of the Glue Remover and how thin the tools (blades & spudger) are though. Have to make a little research.
That is why also I opened the thread to ask for opinions from people that may have done this or similar task before and to help others in the future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before using any chemicals, I would try and use the finest /thinnest plastic card or tool to scrape the glue out of the edges first. Chemicals would be my last resort. Good luck my friend.:good:
roaduardo said:
Damn, I'm sorry you're having to deal with this. This is one of the biggest reasons why I don't use screen protectors on my phones. I've used a glass one on my Note 5 but didn't like it. Naked display feels the best and performs the best. Not fuss, no glue, no BS. Eeek!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have dropped my phones at least 5 times in the last year and each time it landed screen side down. I broke all 5 glass protectors but never the screen. That is why I must have a full adhesive glass protector on. It is a PITA to get perfect but for me, it's worth it.
Mike02z said:
I have dropped my phones at least 5 times in the last year and each time it landed screen side down. I broke all 5 glass protectors but never the screen. That is why I must have a full adhesive glass protector on. It is a PITA to get perfect but for me, it's worth it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand, some people need it. I haven't chipped or broken a display since I had an iPhone. Knock wood. Naked is glorious, though.
Plastic tools and alcohol are your friends.
99% Isopropyl should be able to dissolve the glue, and shouldn't leave a mark on the phone (iso evaporates completely and is not dangerous to plastics or metals). A stiff bristled plastic brush would be ideal, maybe an old toothbrush. The thinner and stiffer the bristles, the better.
The iso will dissolve the glue, but you'll need to mechanically agitate it to remove it completely. Bear in mind that traces of iso having touched the glue will streak glass , so a second/third rinse with iso may be necessary.
I'd be careful about getting iso into the switches, as long term iso can degrade rubber (switch seals etc) but as long as you clean, then dry out effectively there shouldn't be an issue (iso will evaporate at room temp in any case). Covering the switches with tape could help, but iso is so thin it will probably go under the tape, and will likely dissolve the glue on the tape too!
e: Whatever you do don't use acetone or any other stronger solvent. Depending on the plastics used acetone will eat right through them, and may affect the finish on other parts too.
Iso really is a decent cleaning solution for most electronic devices.
e ii: Oh, and if you use an old toothbrush, make sure it's very clean. Getting some toothpaste grit on the screen and rubbing it in with a brush would be tragic. Maybe even buy a brand new brush just for this job? Not too expensive for the job, imho.
Limeybastard said:
Before using any chemicals, I would try and use the finest /thinnest plastic card or tool to scrape the glue out of the edges first. Chemicals would be my last resort. Good luck my friend.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I'm trying to find such thin tool made of plastic. Cards are too thick for it. It needs to be so thin that can cut you..like razor blades maybe even thinner.
Warlord1981 said:
Yes I'm trying to find such thin tool made of plastic. Cards are too thick for it. It needs to be so thin that can cut you..like razor blades maybe even thinner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Packaging plastic is often thin and stiff... Cut it into a triangle and see if you can get "under" the glue in the gap.
roaduardo said:
I understand, some people need it. I haven't chipped or broken a display since I had an iPhone. Knock wood. Naked is glorious, though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HAHAH, SNAP! Same here, last phone I ever broke was my last iphone I owned , it was the iphone 4s. That was when I was drinking also,
Nekid, is always glorious, without a shadow of a doubt. But I am too shy and need coverage.
iPhone screens can be so brittle. I got used to changing screens for friends at work. During lunch they'd bring me their replacement display kits that they ordered from Ebay and I'd replace their broken screen for some Subway (as payment).
Warlord1981 said:
Yes I'm trying to find such thin tool made of plastic. Cards are too thick for it. It needs to be so thin that can cut you..like razor blades maybe even thinner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, but not metal.
What i used after installing the whitedome was a sheet of paper, running the corner around gap. Cleaned it easily this way.
princeasi said:
What i used after installing the whitedome was a sheet of paper, running the corner around gap. Cleaned it easily this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think OP needs something as thin but stiffer as his glue is cured fully now.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Limeybastard said:
I think OP needs something as thin but stiffer as his glue is cured fully now.
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The glue stays soft. If you run the paper around it, it will come up. After about a half a cycle thru, I would cut the edge of the paper each time so that I can continue with a firm edge. I did this after a week of installation.
princeasi said:
The glue stays soft. If you run the paper around it, it will come up. After about a half a cycle thru, I would cut the edge of the paper each time so that I can continue with a firm edge. I did this after a week of installation.
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Guyz you won't believe it! For the past 2 hours I was doing exactly that! Actually what worked best was a piece of paper that had the dust removal stickers on it (got it from the Olixar Sentinel Case/Screen Protector kit), which is more firm than plain A4 paper. And I was cutting it all the time to keep its sharpness. At some point it finished and I used just plain A4 paper, which wasn't the same but it kinda worked as well..
I was running it inch by inch around the whole frame, taking out glue (indeed soft) little by little! I think it's much better now, though I think I will do another round in the near future.
well after watching videos.. I could see I never needed ALL of that small tube of glue. I always use some kind of screen protector. I like to sell or give away. And you can ALWAYS tell the used phones that never had a screen protector. Always some kind of scratches.. For me selling it mint.. gets more money.
So use some kind of plastic not metal blade to get the excess glue off. It comes off so easily
Warlord1981 said:
First of all which Glue Remover is more suitable? Does it have to be a branded one? Or the unbranded ones will do the job as well? Is there danger that the remover will dry and stay in the gap making it worse? Will it damage the color or consistency of the metal frame? Will it damage the buttons (Power, Volum, Bixby)?
Secondly, which tool should do the job reaching such tiny gap while at the same time not scratching the screen or the metal frame? Metal Blade? Plastic Blade? Wire? Some other tool?
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I had the same issue with mine and all I used is the film that you remove from the Glass protector before application.. cut off small squares and I ran that in the tiny gaps but making sure you don't go too deep.. Patience and time is must..
I do have a question though.. What is the best thing to use if I wanted to remove my protector off, clean the cured adhesive and use the 2nd bottle to reapply??

Protect the base of the Gemini

Any ideas on a nonslip thin cover for the bottom of the Gemini or very small felt or rubber feet?
I expect to receive my unit soon.
My idea was to use silicone to create my own "feet".
The idea is to cut feet shaped holes into thin foam, the kind you would use for scrapbooking, stick the foam onto the bottom of the gemini, fill the cut out holes with a thin layer of silicone (should be neutral curing silicone, not the type that causes a vinegar smell when curing), then remove the foam molds and let it cure.
Since I haven't physically held a Gemini PDA in my hands yet I still don't know where the rear feet underneath the LCD need to be so that the device doesn't tilt backwards. Possibly the rubber feet will need to be on the metal hinge itself, which would make things a bit more complicated.
Silicone shouldn't stick that well, so I expect to loose a foot now and then and I hope that it will be easily removable without damaging the devices case.
drwatson said:
I expect to receive my unit soon.
My idea was to use silicone to create my own "feet".
...snip...
Silicone shouldn't stick that well, so I expect to loose a foot now and then and I hope that it will be easily removable without damaging the devices case.
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Or just get wide enough grip tape to cover the entire bottom plate. That's what I plan to do with mine since cases that allow you to keep using it are pretty much impossible with this sort of device.
Oh, how nasty I can't imagine this will ever come off again
If you want to make feet, you guys should really check out Sugru! It's amazing stuff. It makes for a great present too. They should just about give me a commission, haha
https://sugru.com
I had a leftover woven carbon fiber sticky sheet that I cut to size and put on the bottom metal plate. Protects and looks good.

Official ASUS Case (the $60 one) is a POS

I wouldn't advise wasting your money on the case. Mine came today and I am sending it back. It is three pieces of cheap plastic. Not rubberized in any way. The pieces click together to form a hard shell around the back , top and bottom of the phone... Not the sides.
The back plate is also very thick and does not sit flush against the phone, so it makes a horrible rattling noise when the phone vibrates.
The phone feels better in the hand with the glass back. I'll take my chances with it naked unless something better comes out.
ballanda said:
I wouldn't advise wasting your money on the case. Mine came today and I am sending it back. It is three pieces of cheap plastic. Not rubberized in any way. The pieces click together to form a hard shell around the back , top and bottom of the phone... Not the sides.
The back plate is also very thick and does not sit flush against the phone, so it makes a horrible rattling noise when the phone vibrates.
The phone feels better in the hand with the glass back. I'll take my chances with it naked unless something better comes out.
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I think the cheap cases are just fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Phone-AVIDET...pID=414tLGS-1AL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Tesla74 said:
I think the cheap cases are just fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Phone-AVIDET...pID=414tLGS-1AL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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They are ok, but squeeze and air triggers don't work with them. Clearly ASUS didn't take into account having the sides covered by a case, you can tell that because the official case doesn't cover the sides meaning the squeeze function doesn't work with the sides covered.
I would advise to wait for a case that has the sides uncovered unless he doesn't care if that's the case then he can go with your suggestion.
P.S: Even if the case was good i wouldn't pay 60$ for any case period unless it doubles as a power bank 2
Rashad83 said:
They are ok, but squeeze and air triggers don't work with them. Clearly ASUS didn't take into account having the sides covered by a case, you can tell that because the official case doesn't cover the sides meaning the squeeze function doesn't work with the sides covered.
I would advise to wait for a case that has the sides uncovered unless he doesn't care if that's the case then he can go with your suggestion.
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Good point. Hopefully, someone will consider those features. I do like how the cheap rubberized cases feel in hand compared to the hard plastic ones.
I was finally able to find a reseller for the ASUS RoG case, but they we asking $90USD for it....WTF, I decided on a 3rd party case, for $20, but
the case "supposedly" works for the airtriggers, but it doesn't. There are openings where the AirTriggers are, but the edges are too sharp, and the material just absorbs your applied pressure, and they never detect.
Instead of making an opening, might be better to add some conductive material, like what they use for winter gloves, and place them on the inside of the case where the triggers are located.
That sounds like a workable option.
Would be almost beneficial if they released 3d printing templates(something the've done in past with rog pc hardware) on rog.asus.com seeing as skinomi isnt the most thrilling alternative
It took me one week to discover my phone actually came with official case (creatively hidden drawer in the box). Within that one week that it's naked, it managed to get noticeable scratches on the left metal frame as well as on the back piece where the Aerodynamic System phrase is written. Looks ugly af now. ?

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