So with a PD USB hub and a UVC camera, its pretty easy to get video conferencing software (zoom in particular) working on this "chromecast" Android TV dongle. The only problem is that there is no outgoing sound, even if the camera has a microphone. Incoming and outgoing video work perfectly, as does INCOMING audio, but no outgoing audio.
I've considered the possibility that the microphone on the remote is somehow hijacking the whole show, but nothing changes when you "forget" the remote.
Anybody tried this and/or have any pointers? I'm trying specifically for zoom, since that's the platform used by our dojo during this panicdemic.
same. I have tried usb microphone, webcam built in microphone, bluetooth microphone. Nothing. I double checked zoom has permission. All other meeting apps work with the mics i have except zoom. Anyone that has any ideas for me to try let me know.
nottingham82 said:
same. I have tried usb microphone, webcam built in microphone, bluetooth microphone. Nothing. I double checked zoom has permission. All other meeting apps work with the mics i have except zoom. Anyone that has any ideas for me to try let me know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hm, check and see if there are any additional options in the developer options that might help, activate as usual via repeated tapping on the build number
Any success?
I have been trying to make it work with Logitech c920 but it didn't work.
I was thinking on switching the usb connection type to Audio but this actually crashes the setting app.
Maybe u guys can try to use LesserAudioSwitch by sideloading...
yan2xme said:
Maybe u guys can try to use LesserAudioSwitch by sideloading...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That crap doesn't do ANYTHING.
96carboard said:
That crap doesn't do ANYTHING.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
o **** I can conclude it doesn’t do its job on Android TV’s… same in FireStick too the crap doesn’t route its audio to usb dac
Related
Hi,
Can you please test and see if the phone is hardware limited to record the voice of the other person on a call like many other HTC PPC phones.
Software like:
VITO AudioNotes v1.3
Resco Audio Recorder 4 betas
LivePvr
PM Recorder
or even with the build-in Windows Notes.
10x
somebody ? anybody ?
mentox said:
somebody ? anybody ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i think there was a post like this on modaco, and the answer was:
resco recorder
http://www.resco.net/pocketpc/audiorecorder/default.asp
also you could try
vito audio notes
http://vitotechnology.com/en/products/audionotes.html
I am using Resco audio recorder on my Kaiser
austin_boy said:
I am using Resco audio recorder on my Kaiser
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
but does it record the call partner voice too?
I know it was possible to record the whole conversation only on smarphone because of an hardware limitation in pocket pc instead smartphone.
Thats also very important for my decision whether to buy the Kaiser or not!
Anybody - please check and post... (would be perfect if somebody could make and record a short test call and attach it here )
Thanks a lot!
El_Mar1ach1 said:
but does it record the call partner voice too?
I know it was possible to record the whole conversation only on smarphone because of an hardware limitation in pocket pc instead smartphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, vito audio notes records the other person's voice too. you can just record whenever, or have it automaticly record when u make or recieve a call. it has different settings of sound quality too.
mikeeey said:
yes, vito audio notes records the other person's voice too. you can just record whenever, or have it automatically record when u make or receive a call. it has different settings of sound quality too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know they say that it works, but actually it doesn't for all newer HTC Pocket PCs - that's why we are asking. Anybody here who really tried it and can attach a test call (without loudspeakers turned on!)?
DoctorT said:
I know they say that it works, but actually it doesn't for all newer HTC Pocket PCs - that's why we are asking. Anybody here who really tried it and can attach a test call (without loudspeakers turned on!)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i really cant see why it couldnt... but i suppose if someone tests it then it would be nice ot know
mikeeey said:
well i really cant see why it couldnt... but i suppose if someone tests it then it would be nice ot know
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, you can see if you do some research - it's a hardware limitation as the phone audio system is not fully integrated into the Windows Mobile audio system...
This is also a feature i would like to see!
There is talk about utilising the Bluetooth Stack to record the call (both ends) but i dont know how far along it is.
Its really frustrating that the PPC phone edition isnt smarter than the 'Smartphones' that can record both ends!
Perhaps we should actually look at this a little differently.
The PPC recorders all seem to record via the mic, but how about a recorder that can record only the audio sent to the speaker! (Thus recording the other person!)
@GLO
Perhaps we should actually look at this a little differently.
The PPC recorders all seem to record via the mic, but how about a recorder that can record only the audio sent to the speaker! (Thus recording the other person!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The PPC recorders record via the mic because recording the audio sent to the speaker doesnt work, that is the limitation everybody is talking about. This audio routing is handled in hardware itself and software is not able to tap it in between...
shantzg001 said:
@GLO
The PPC recorders record via the mic because recording the audio sent to the speaker doesnt work, that is the limitation everybody is talking about. This audio routing is handled in hardware itself and software is not able to tap it in between...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Shantzg001,
I realise they dont record both, but i am suggesting that it would be great to find something that can only record the speaker, not the mic. Just as if you wanted to record streaming music. (that doesnt record from the mic).
I havent found anything yet that can do this but it could just be the search terms im using.
I can confirm that unless you use the speakerphone that Vito Audio Notes, as was supsected, records only the microphone (your own voice, not the other party of the call)of the phone conversation. Also the "auto record" for phone calls does not work when activated either.
Try Resco Audio Recorder, it has trial version for sure.
Some people said it works.
I tried it - you don't hear the other side of the call on the recording unless you use the speaker.
Damn
I really missed this feature (phone recording).
I hope there is a registry setting "EnablePhoneRecording" or something like that.
Do you think this is hardware limitation? Or application issue? or OS? ... hard to guess.
BaldBoy said:
I tried it - you don't hear the other side of the call on the recording unless you use the speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Worth to try this one:
http://www.softtrends.com/products/livepvr/livepvrwmsp.htm
Well, I think it is not possible
Read here :
http://www.pocketpcmag.com/blogs/index.php?blog=3&p=1931&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1
So guys, move on ....
Hi I'd like to use my Kaiser as a wireless microphone (baby monitor function) and receive sound on my PC.
I've been thinking about using Bluetooth as well as WiFi connection.
Any Help?
Thanks
it would reqire a special made program to run on both the pda and the computer
the pda would have to be on all the time recording every sound and compress it to mp3 or something smaller then wav
and transmit it over the network to a program on the pc which would play store or alert you
basicly it would require a lot of programming
and unless you phone was being powered by ac
it would suck your batt dry very very very fast
There is a more advanced software for it, it's called Video Camera Plus but it streams video signal as well as the sound. The thing is it doesn't always work well on my kaiser and I don't need a video to be transmited.
Basically I'm looking for something simpler.
bklonica said:
Hi I'd like to use my Kaiser as a wireless microphone (baby monitor function) and receive sound on my PC.
I've been thinking about using Bluetooth as well as WiFi connection.
Any Help?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi bklonica,
i think i have found for what you have asked....take a look here. We will use that in hospitals for childs. To hold contact with the parents, where not network cam from axis is possible...
http://www.babymonitor-mobile.com/index.htm
Skype? Install fring on it and call your computer. Disable the sound on Kaiser and keep it plugged in. If you have wifi it should work.
Hey guys I am a newbie to app development and I have gotten as far as doing the tip calculator. I am trying to make an intervalometer app based on the ti- calculator app at the link below. Basically, it would use the headphone jack to trigger a camera remote shutter release at a predictable rate for time lapse photography on a Canon DSLR. Here is the TI-83 reference. Any idea how to do this on android. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
http://potatoeskillme.com/code/ti-86-intervalometer-for-canon-xti/
Dude, I'm really sorry I'm not skilled enough (yet) to help make this happen.
What a fantastic idea! I would love to see this happen.
Anyone have an idea how to access the audio port in code? I have to close the loop on the headphone jack for an instant and then release it.
You are attacking the wrong hole.
Audio jacks don't behave in the same way as the TI data jack.
Investigate using USB.
I would love to see some sort of wireless control of the camera's basic functions, similar to the hardware wireless control modules for those cameras.
Perhaps easier to accomplish and just as nice would be a way to make the camera a wi-fi storage device for those level Canon cameras. It would be sweet to snap shots to the phone for easy posting to the various places Android supports.
My guess would be that Dalvik (SDK level Code) doesn't have access to hardware level controls.
So this would have to have some Native (NDK Code) in c++ written to make it work. I don't think it would be entirely difficult for someone, but I personally have never tried to use an audio jack for anything other than..well...audio.
Kcarpenter said:
My guess would be that Dalvik (SDK level Code) doesn't have access to hardware level controls.
So this would have to have some Native (NDK Code) in c++ written to make it work. I don't think it would be entirely difficult for someone, but I personally have never tried to use an audio jack for anything other than..well...audio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that was kinda what I was afraid of. I have really bitten off more than I can chew with this project.
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
centran said:
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB is the way to go. I've written a few apps for windows that control canon cameras using the canon sdk. Unfortunately, the SDK is all C++, so a wrapper is needed to work with java. Plus there are functions that are windows specific. The other option for Linux is libgphoto2. Unfortunately, documentation is not the greatest (nor is it for csdk).
If I had more time, I would have coded this already. But all my coding time is spent programming for work.
centran said:
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am going to test your audio idea and see if it shorts the connection. Yeah, I wish I even knew where to begin with working on the USB. I am very new to this. The farthest I have gotten is building a potential layout for the program.
I just looked up some stuff.
I think the canon remote needs a little over 3volts to trigger the shutter. You are not going to be able to get anywhere close to that with the audio output.
I think the only option is to go through the usb.
centran said:
I just looked up some stuff.
I think the canon remote needs a little over 3volts to trigger the shutter. You are not going to be able to get anywhere close to that with the audio output.
I think the only option is to go through the usb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the info. I am downloading the Canon SDK right now(not that I have any idea what to do with it at this point).
is this still going? we are about to make the gsm hero usb-host-mode-able, then all that is missing is libgphoto2 and gphoto2... anyone fancy porting it?
First of all, sorry for my English.
I was searching in Google for something like this and I can't find nothing.
Using the usb is not simple, but the audio option is not crazy at all.
Obviously, that option will require some kind of interface, but can be much simple than the USB option.
You can generate different audio frequencies, for example, 1 KHz for focus and 5 KHz for shutter. With a filter for each frequency you can separate the signal in two circuits. Each circuit can trigger the camera with a transistor, in open collector configuration.
Whatever, if you choose one or another (USB or audio) you will must make some kind of electronic interface.
If someone can works with the software, I can do my part with the circuit. I'm sure that will be easy to build for anyone, even if you don't know electronics.
I am also looking into doing this sort of app, but I am starting with a Pentax k110d... Some camera's only require you to short out the wires, and doing so with the audio headphone jack seems to be possible, from the quick little test I just did with a media player, a 3.5mm jack extension cord, and a multimeter. When the track was playing, i got some resistance across the poles, but when I stopped it, I got nothing registering.
I had actually just given up on the headphone jack, and was looking into doing it over USB as well. I might just have to do several code paths, depending on what kind of camera the person is hooking up /ponder
Alrighty, I just did some more testing with a quick framework app that I had been working on for this. There is apparently a constant 1.7 mV on the headphone jack, which is enough to trigger the shutter release on my camera... boo urns... and when the tone is played, the voltage actually drops, because as all learned ppl know(at least those who paid some attention in physics) is that according to Ohms law, Resistance goes up, Voltage goes down.
Any progress on this?
I would love an intervalometer on Android for my Canon EOS 550D
+1 for the development of such app & hardware it may need.
i hate to bust your bubble but this died over a year ago
ya, development has kinda stalled out... I realized that it is not possible to do over the headphone jack, as there is always voltage there, and I don't know if it is possible just over usb...
The only way I can think that this would be possible would be to get ahold of a google hardware kit/arduino dev kit, and then program that.
I have a home cinema projector with no audio out, so in order to make my chromecast work I bought the J Tech DHDMI Audio Extractor. I've seen this exact model discussed elsewhere online, so as far as I know, others have used it successfully with Chromecast.
So my setup is - Chromecast into the IN of the HDMI Audio Extractor. HDMI cable OUT to my projector. And Optical Audio OUT to my sound system.
The problem? No audio.
I tried the exact same setup with my PS3 instead of the chromecast, and it worked - video and audio, with the exact same hookup. So the extractor works and the cords are fine.
I've tried all 3 audio toggles on the Audio Extractor (Pass-through/2.1/5.1) and none work for this.
I've tried multiple reboots and factory resets to no success.
I have heard that the ChromeCast tries to be smart about it's A/V capabilities, and there is a chance it may be looking at the HDMI connection, seeing that the projector has no Audio capabilities, and giving up, but I don't know how to attempt to reconfigure that, and there are certainly other people out there who have made my exact setup work, and I can't imagine what they are doing differently...
This theory does have additional evidence: When setting up my PS3 I had to set the sound set up to "Manual" rather than "Automatic" - in automatic mode, the PS3 said the HDMI connection had no audio capabilities. However in Manual mode it seemed to pass through audio just fine. I wonder if the same is happening with the Chromecast, only it's too "smart" to just push the audio through?
To test that theory I used an HDMI to VGA adapter to try to get VGA into my projector, but had the exact same result.
Finally, I tried to configure the Chromecast with JUST the optical audio out from the extractor without video so that it wouldn't try to guess what the audio was, and then hooking up the video after. Same result. Tried turning the projector/audio extractor on and off a bunch of times too..
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
deanCommie said:
This theory does have additional evidence: When setting up my PS3 I had to set the sound set up to "Manual" rather than "Automatic" - in automatic mode, the PS3 said the HDMI connection had no audio capabilities. However in Manual mode it seemed to pass through audio just fine. I wonder if the same is happening with the Chromecast, only it's too "smart" to just push the audio through?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can borrow an HDMI display/TV that has audio, you can try hooking that up first, booting the Chromecast to get audio, then do a hot-swap. That might work, but if it does, it's only a temporary solution and proves your theory that Chromecast is inspecting the audio capabilities on the HDMI side.
HDfury2 works well for me with its built in audio breakout.
bhiga said:
If you can borrow an HDMI display/TV that has audio, you can try hooking that up first, booting the Chromecast to get audio, then do a hot-swap. That might work, but if it does, it's only a temporary solution and proves your theory that Chromecast is inspecting the audio capabilities on the HDMI side.
HDfury2 works well for me with its built in audio breakout.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I think that's got to be my next move if only to make sure the Chromecast is not a lemon.
In case you don't end up getting yours to work. This is what I use to split the audio and use the chromecast on my projector. and it works flawlessly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECTHIKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The latest:
* Confirmed Chromecast sends audio by hooking it up to a regular TV
* Tried to hook it up to projector through HDMI->VGA connection and still no audio
* Found out that I'm not the only one having Projector-Chromecast-HDMI splitter problems: (I can't post links but go to the AMazon page for the product)
Ugh. Who wants a free Chromecast? I just don't see this working out for me...
So whatever adapter is used must report audio capabilities. Like I mentioned, I have HDfury2 and get audio fine. The one @Znomon mentioned is cheaper though. Then again, it's still close to the cost of a Chromecast, so...
The latest:
* Confirmed Chromecast sends audio by hooking it up to a regular TV
* Tried to hook it up to projector through HDMI->VGA connection and still no audio
* Found out that I'm not the only one having Projector-Chromecast-HDMI splitter problems: (I can't post links but go to the AMazon page for the product)
Ugh. Who wants a free Chromecast? I just don't see this working out for me.../QUOTE]
Sorry u can't get it to work if u really want to give the chromecast away I'll take it been wanting to try one out.
Hi. I just registered to this forum to say that I am able to do EXACTLY what you trying to do.
But the trick is the "guy" i'm using. It's a chinese cheap HD Converter that splits hdmi audio into RCA output and hdmi video. I know that I have not that special audio since it is turned on a rca output, but it works.
I bought from a local tech market. And the first one I bought did not work and the difference between them is energy source (the first had not).
Good luck and keep persistent.
PS: If you really want, i can buy one for you here in Brazil and send you by mail... but the postage will cost more than the converter!
b3ltazar said:
The latest:
* Confirmed Chromecast sends audio by hooking it up to a regular TV
* Tried to hook it up to projector through HDMI->VGA connection and still no audio
* Found out that I'm not the only one having Projector-Chromecast-HDMI splitter problems: (I can't post links but go to the AMazon page for the product)
Ugh. Who wants a free Chromecast? I just don't see this working out for me.../QUOTE]
Sorry u can't get it to work if u really want to give the chromecast away I'll take it been wanting to try one out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So there is no way to hack the audio without other hardware (splitter)? I was hoping maybe bluetooth can be a solution?
goprojojo said:
So there is no way to hack the audio without other hardware (splitter)? I was hoping maybe bluetooth can be a solution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, need hardware to extract it.
Bluetooth, even if you managed to get Chromecast's Bluetooth enabled, paired and sending audio, wouldn't be good because the audio stream would be delayed, unless it also delayed the video stream too but even that would probably not guarantee lip sync.
I'll take it
Deancommie, I'll take it off your hands. I'm a school teacher, so free is the best price.
deanCommie said:
The latest:
* Confirmed Chromecast sends audio by hooking it up to a regular TV
* Tried to hook it up to projector through HDMI->VGA connection and still no audio
* Found out that I'm not the only one having Projector-Chromecast-HDMI splitter problems: (I can't post links but go to the AMazon page for the product)
Ugh. Who wants a free Chromecast? I just don't see this working out for me...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Time to upgrade to an Av receiver with hdmi input me thinks. Chromecast works flawlessly with my home pj setup.
I just recently noticed this setting under sounds on the setting menu, does anyone here also have trouble enabling it? and does it work?
darweezie21 said:
I just recently noticed this setting under sounds on the setting menu, does anyone here also have trouble enabling it? and does it work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to have headphones plugged in before you can enable it. Not sure exactly about the results you get from it as i don't use it.
JKLIMES1 said:
You have to have headphones plugged in before you can enable it. Not sure exactly about the results you get from it as i don't use it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I'll have my bluetooth speakers connected but the option isn't made available to switch on.
Wired headphones
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
JasonJoel said:
Wired headphones
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is it a wired only feature? non bluetooth?
darweezie21 said:
is it a wired only feature? non bluetooth?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
plug in headphones and turn it on. when you are on bluetooth it will likely still be to the "on" position but greyed out. Not sure if it actually does its thing via bluetooth though. Try it out with it turned on and off and see if it makes any difference in sound when connected to bluetooth.
As far as I know you can't actually transfer ultra high quality audio over bluetooth. I haven't seen any bluetooth headphone or speaker that supports over CD quality. (In terms of sample rate, bit depth etc.) but I might be wrong.
cewrld said:
As far as I know you can't actually transfer ultra high quality audio over bluetooth. I haven't seen any bluetooth headphone or speaker that supports over CD quality. (In terms of sample rate, bit depth etc.) but I might be wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that makes sense.