New user, here. Long time listener, first time caller. Walmart is selling the Lenovo "Smart Clock 2", in my area, for $24.88 this holiday season. It's bundled with a Lenovo "Smart Bulb Medium", which made it all the more tempting. Of course I didn't resist.
The Smart Clock 2 runs on a Mediatek MT8176 SoC, unlike the previous "Smart Clock", which ran on an Amlogic A113X SoC. Based on the specs I'm seeing, the Bluetooth and WiFi modules have both been downgraded. From BT 5.0 to BT 4.2, and from 801.11AC to 801.11B/G/N, respectively. Hey, you've got to cut costs somewhere if you want to sell it for under $25! I suspect there are more cost-saving "features", but I haven't figured out how to go any deeper in the casing without destroying the innards of the device. Not yet, at least.
Now, I know the bootloader for the original "Smart Clock" was successfully unlocked, and I'm curious what we can do with this device. Lenovo have removed the USB port from the "Smart Clock 2", replacing it with pogo pin pads on the bottom of the unit, which interface with a dock (not included in the bundle, of course). The dock does have a USB A port, but I don't have the dock. We'll have to do this the old fashioned way. Whatever that is. Any tips for non-destructively interfacing with those pads would be welcomed! I'm thinking some blu-tack and a female USB-A pigtail? I suppose I could buy some pogo pins and wire them up to protoboard, but I'm not sure I want to make that investment (in time or money). I suppose I could also just buy the dock, but I'm not nearly that invested, and also they don't seem to sell it without the "Smart Clock 2" itself. Not exactly surprising.
Lenovo have kindly labeled the pads on the PCB inside the unit. Initial disassembly isn't too hard. Remove the rubber gasket from the bottom of the device (it's just held on with some relatively weak adhesive), unscrew the four screws underneath, and gently pry the plastic base-plate up from the front edge (the side facing the screen). Underneath we find a small PCB that looks like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The switch just turns the microphone on and off, so don't get too excited, like I did, at first. DP, DM, GND, and VBUS should get us a USB connection, though, if I'm not mistaken.
Holding the Volume Up button while powering the unit brings us, eventually, to the expected:
Holding volume down on power-up boots us into "safe mode".
I'd very much like to get this device to do something more than just "be a clock", or "stream audio". Especially considering that system specs like this thing has would've made me lose my mind back when I was 12. Granted, I only had a 386 then. I'd absolutely love to figure out how to get this thing to run Octo4a (Android OctoPrint server for driving a 3D Printer). It's more than capable of it, but I suspect I'm chasing a dream. At least I can repurpose the screen and digitizer, if all else fails.
Information online seems scant, for this device, at this time, but I'm willing to experiment. I'm not the most knowledgeable person, but I have a dusty 20 year old degree in electronic engineering, if that helps? I somehow doubt it.
So, where do I go from here? Figure out how to connect it and then "fastboot flashing unlock" as with the previous "Smart Clock" from Lenovo? All suggestions welcome! Thanks!
Maybe serial/uart can communicate to a pc for configuration?
I know this is an older thread but I wanted to point out that by following this guide you can install basically any apk on the clock. From that point you can install a launcher and open the real settings app as opposed to the default one. I was able to connect a bluetooth keyboard and also enable developer options the normal way, where an "OEM Unlocking" toggle is present. I was also able to confirm that the charging dock is connected over usb as it shows up under connected devices in settings, however the type-A port on the back doesn't seem to carry data. I tried both a wired keyboard and usb flash drive and neither seemed to work. Hope this info helps!
ScanuRag said:
I know this is an older thread but I wanted to point out that by following this guide you can install basically any apk on the clock. From that point you can install a launcher and open the real settings app as opposed to the default one. I was able to connect a bluetooth keyboard and also enable developer options the normal way, where an "OEM Unlocking" toggle is present. I was also able to confirm that the charging dock is connected over usb as it shows up under connected devices in settings, however the type-A port on the back doesn't seem to carry data. I tried both a wired keyboard and usb flash drive and neither seemed to work. Hope this info helps!View attachment 5679439View attachment 5679453
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I have been trying to follow that guide, and it says to enable the screen-reader in the accessibility settings in the google home app, but that setting isnt anywhere to be found in the google home app (on iOS). How did you do it? Thanks
Hmm... I'm on Android so the interface may be different for me. On my phone the toggle was located in Settings > Accessibility Settings > Screen reader.
So I 3D printed a small piece that lets me more easily hold some breadboard cables onto the pads. Do you think it's safe to connect the d+ and d- cables to a USB port and plug it into my computer.
ScanuRag said:
I know this is an older thread but I wanted to point out that by following this guide you can install basically any apk on the clock. From that point you can install a launcher and open the real settings app as opposed to the default one. I was able to connect a bluetooth keyboard and also enable developer options the normal way, where an "OEM Unlocking" toggle is present. I was also able to confirm that the charging dock is connected over usb as it shows up under connected devices in settings, however the type-A port on the back doesn't seem to carry data. I tried both a wired keyboard and usb flash drive and neither seemed to work. Hope this info helps!View attachment 5679439View attachment 5679453
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that you have developer options enabled, can you enable ADB over wifi ?
The guide worked fine, thank you @ScanuRag for pointing me to it. It's a bit trial and error to get the gestures right and the browser is quite painful to use with talkback on, but I managed to install a launcher and access settings, enable developer options and ADB. Next step would be to get a USB connection somehow.
ScanuRag said:
So I 3D printed a small piece that lets me more easily hold some breadboard cables onto the pads. Do you think it's safe to connect the d+ and d- cables to a USB port and plug it into my computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So did you try it yet?
nicklas2k said:
Now that you have developer options enabled, can you enable ADB over wifi ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, there is no menu option for ADB over wifi.
Unfortunately, it didn't provide a stable connection. It looks like I'll be ordering some pogo pins in the future.
ScanuRag said:
Unfortunately, it didn't provide a stable connection. It looks like I'll be ordering some pogo pins in the future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But that means you got a connection after all, right?
I was just testing to see if the 12v out would power an Arduino (it did, but very sporadically)
I finally got around to disassembling the wireless charging dock and found some exciting things. Most importantly, there appear to be contacts for a MicroUSB port. I'll have to get one of my friends who's better at soldering than I am to solder one on. I wouldn't be surprised if it gives USB access to the clock because Lenovo had to debug these things somehow.
Just dropping a line here and keeping this dev work alive, getting this thing at least with an unlocked bootloader and something stable (not relaying on lenovo or google) is a huge win. I turned of OEM updates do hopefully that works for now.
Hppy to see your work guys !
On my side I have directly solder usb connector on it:
Now if you plug it to the computer, the device is show as LenovoCD-24502F
I'm now able to see preloader boot :
If you start the device with vol- pressed we can see something like an UART Dec 6 15:08:20 AREA51 systemd[1]: systemd-oomd.service: Got notification message from PID 6014 (WATCHDOG=1) Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.094549] usb 1-10.1: new high-speed USB device number 72 using xhci_hcd Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.195180] usb 1-10.1: New USB device found, idVendor=0e8d, idProduct=2000, bcdDevice= 1.00 Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.195190] usb 1-10.1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0 Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.195194] usb 1-10.1: Product: MT65xx Preloader Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.195197] usb 1-10.1: Manufacturer: MediaTek Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.218855] cdc_acm 1-10.1:1.0: Zero length descriptor references Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.218867] cdc_acm: probe of 1-10.1:1.0 failed with error -22 Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.299163] cdc_acm 1-10.1:1.1: ttyACM1: USB ACM device
[15:27]
+++++ but the UART is removed once the device is started (modifié)
[15:28]
++++ Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-serial-by\x2dpath-pci\x2d0000:00:14.0\x2dusb\x2d0:10.1:1.1.device: Changed plugged -> dead Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-serial-by\x2did-usb\x2dMediaTek_MT65xx_Preloader\x2dif01.device: Changed plugged -> dead Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-ttyACM1.device: Changed plugged -> dead Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: sys-devices-pci0000:00-0000:00:14.0-usb1-1\x2d10-1\x2d10.1-1\x2d10.1:1.1-tty-ttyACM1.device: Changed plugged -> dead Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: sys-devices-pci0000:00-0000:00:14.0-usb1-1\x2d10-1\x2d10.1-1\x2d10.1:1.1-tty-ttyACM1.device: Collecting. Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-ttyACM1.device: Collecting. Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-serial-by\x2did-usb\x2dMediaTek_MT65xx_Preloader\x2dif01.device: Collecting. Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-serial-by\x2dpath-pci\x2d0000:00:14.0\x2dusb\x2d0:10.1:1.1.device: Collecting.
[15:29]
===============================================================
But the uart is gone after the boot
Any news on your side ?
I also managed to wire up the pins on the small board to a USB connection and I could adb into the device after enabling usb debugging. There is an OEM unlock option, not sure what I can do afterwards though, have to read about how that all works first before I destroy anything.
After a bit of trying, I managed to unlock the device. After enabling OEM unlock in the system settings, I did 'adb reboot bootloader' but the screen turned off and I didn't know what was happening. It seemed to be in fastboot mode as it was giving me 'remote: unknown command' after trying 'fastboot oem device-info'. I then tried 'fastboot flashing unlock' which got stuck.
Next I tried rebooting with holding the volume up key and selected fastboot after that. This was fine and it also showed the warning for the unlock but the volume up key wouldn't do anything, I waited a couple of minutes and retried this several times with the same result, which is interesting because I could chose fastboot in the bootloader menu without any issues.
As I knew what was happening in fastboot, I rebooted the device normally and while the boot screen was still visible, I used adb to reboot into the bootloader. Interestingly, the screen stayed on this time and unlocking worked like a charm. Device was reset and now the unlocked warning is shown when booting.
Edit: Does anyone know where to get the firmware files for this thing? Before I continue flashing anything, I'd really like to have a backup at hand that I can use to restore the device in case something goes wrong. I found guides how to backup mtk firmware with wwr_mtk + sp flash tool (on a site called hovatek, is this legit?) - but they are made for phones and I'm not sure if they do work for the clock as there is no battery.
Good news ! The firmware looks available for the first version https://smartsupport.lenovo.com/us/...er-list/component?name=Software and Utilities
As both use the same Soc and RAM/eMMC can we use the same ? I'm not self confident enought with Android and security...
You can find the open source code for this one on their portal as well, have a look here https://support.lenovo.com/de/de/solutions/ht511330-lenovo-open-source-portal
I'd be interested in OFW images that I can flash via fastboot in case I break something. I found other threads in here from @deadman96385 - maybe they can tell us where to get the s3 links for this device?
I've been following this for a bit, so if you guys have the software unlocked and are able to flash the Gen 1 software, aren't we golden? Because from there I remember many people have hacked the first generation. I might be jumping the gun, I'm not too great at this stuff but I can follow most of what you are all saying so far. Can't we just do that?
ScanuRag said:
I finally got around to disassembling the wireless charging dock and found some exciting things. Most importantly, there appear to be contacts for a MicroUSB port. I'll have to get one of my friends who's better at soldering than I am to solder one on. I wouldn't be surprised if it gives USB access to the clock because Lenovo had to debug these things somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a multimeter testing for continuity between the VBUS, DM, and DP. I tested all of the pads for the microusb location for all three of those and no continuity.
Leads me to believe that if you soldered a micro-usb port on there, it wouldn't give access. But you are right! How the heck did they debug this bad boy? And why would the microusb be there? My best guess is that they had some sort in house made Pin connector, like the dock, but real simple so they could connect to a PC.
Which leads me to thinking I can solder the VBUS, DM, DP, and GND pins on the PCB to the existing USB A connector. I would disconnect the port first and lose the charging functionality through the port but hopefully gain simple access to the clock. Although I like what @Nini00 did with adding the port to his clock.
Getting into that stupid dock was such a pain. They obviously didn't want people in there lol.
Related
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2474331#post2474331
I did some tests here and need help with finding some USB drivers for WM6.1 to have the flash show up in the OS as well under the bootloader.
This works. Please try Yourself befor flaming.
The Diamond has USB on the Go features.
I have not yet been able to power the USB device from the Diamond as I do not have 11 pin mini usb connector with all pins attached inside.
I just took a USB flash stick from the shelf and formatted it to FAT32.
put a firmware image (shine08.nbh) on it.
renamed it to DIAMIMG.NBH.
powered up the phone with vol down and right button held in.
pressed power button when the phone had found the image on the memstick to start flashing.
nbh file is the only file needed on the memstick.
no computer needed to do the flashing.
It is all described in te confidential service manual except of the cable used(it is just mentioned as the USB Y cable).
The cable works as this:
The gnd and usb signals goes from the phone to the USB memstick connector.
The USB memstick connector gets power from an external 5 volt supply (or a PC usb port,flyppy,hdd.....)
zeb crs said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2474331#post2474331
I did some tests here and need help with finding some USB drivers for WM6.1 to have the flash show up in the OS as well under the bootloader.
This works. Please try Yourself befor flaming.
The Diamond has USB on the Go features.
I have not yet been able to power the USB device from the Diamond as I do not have 11 pin mini usb connector with all pins attached inside.
I just took a USB flash stick from the shelf and formatted it to FAT32.
put a firmware image (shine08.nbh) on it.
renamed it to DIAMIMG.NBH.
powered up the phone with vol down and right button held in.
pressed power button when the phone had found the image on the memstick to start flashing.
nbh file is the only file needed on the memstick.
no computer needed to do the flashing.
It is all described in te confidential service manual except of the cable used(it is just mentioned as the USB Y cable).
The cable works as this:
The gnd and usb signals goes from the phone to the USB memstick connector.
The USB memstick connector gets power from an external 5 volt supply (or a PC usb port,flyppy,hdd.....)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why did you start a new thread just post to the right thread. you even linked to it
OMG!!!!!
doh!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the useful info
Well I guess thanks for the info would have been appropriate before "flying off the handle" , so I'll say thanks on behalf of those of us who appreciate your efforts.
Sorry you can keep all the people happy all of the time
Regards
Chad McAlister
_______________________
Phone: HTC Touch Diamond
Hi there,
I'm new here and not yet owner of an xda, but it's already dispatched at the sellers'.
Thanks go to zeb crs for working this possibility out. As soon as I can, I'll begin working on the problem, and be it writing a new driver. An usb host is really the most important feature to add to my xda, because I always have a copy of my Music and Files with me on a wd passport drive. For power problems, I plan to build a 5V AA-Powersupply for charging the xda and powering the hdd.
If anyone knows of new things I should consider, please tell me!
Just a thought
Not sure if I'm really telling people stuff they already know, but it's just a bit of food for thought...
There's so many posts about this that it's impossible to answer answer the right questions in the right posts, and give everyone a nice wholesome answer, so I'm just going to use this one...
Somewhere in some post, someone mentioned that trying to power a USB while connected to the Diamond could possibly short the phone and destroy it... Well, taking to things into consideration, I don't think it's exactly an issue:
1) the Diamond is charged via the mini-USB port, so whouldn't the power just be going to the same place anyway...?
2) the Y-cable used in the 'top secret' service manual is basically doing just that - you simply use a Y-cable to get the power source to the USB drive - this would be because the diamond will not power out frmo the mini-USB
Ok, so those are my thoughts there...
My other thoughts were that many years ago, I came across an old iPAQ, which came with a special sleeve you could 'plug' it into, which included a spot for external memory - the iPAQ itself did not come with an external memory slot...
So why can't a similar thing be done for the Diamond...?
Take one of those 'extender' battery kits http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15622 and do a bit of crafting on it to include power direct from the batter to an external memory slot all included in the enlarged battery cover... that should take care of the 'carring extra cables and other rubbish' issue that people brought up...
Sure, the Diamond will be a bit thicker (but not too thick) plus you'll get some extra battery life...
Sure this doesn't help with any of the driver issues, or the fact the Dimond has to be reset with the buttons pushed at the right time to trigger 'USB host' mode, but I feel that there are enough clever people out there (much cleverer than me) who could possibly write a simple add-on program that you could initiate which would reste the diamond in the right way to trigger the hosting mode, and while it might not be possible to use the Diamond as a phone in the trigger mode, perhaps instead, it could swap a designated portion of the internal memory with the memory on the external storage device - live swap the video and music folders - that way you're just now accessing stuff you couldn't access before, and since you can't listen to 2 songs at once, it doesn't really matter that you can't access the folders that you just swapped out...
I hope that makes sense...
anyway, just some thoughts - hope it's useful to someone....
Oh, and I guess some drivers could be sourced off the Pro... (maybe)
USB Host Cable
have anyone tried fabricating this cable and tried it in diamond? http://www.nazo-fjt.com/ptcep/w-zero3/es_usb.html
it's in japanese though, but in seconds through babelfish, it is readable in english.
anybody? haven't got any much of electronics hardware resources in my current place, but surely, back at home in the PH, can get loads of hardware stuffs...
f7b7r7 said:
have anyone tried fabricating this cable and tried it in diamond? http://www.nazo-fjt.com/ptcep/w-zero3/es_usb.html
it's in japanese though, but in seconds through babelfish, it is readable in english.
anybody? haven't got any much of electronics hardware resources in my current place, but surely, back at home in the PH, can get loads of hardware stuffs...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the cable/adaptor you are looking for:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Pocket USB host cable and pocket USB host adapter.
Links:
http://www.pocketgames.jp/item_detail/itemId,40/
http://www.pocketgames.jp/item_detail/itemId,39/
http://www.pocketgames.jp/item_detail/itemId,17/
But the problem is that the site is in Japaneese Language.
I can't find any way to contact them, because I don't speak Japaneese.
If any one can please help us.
The only method I found to contact them is this page:
https://xc523.eccart.jp/b877/inquir...588bd306fd6216e06286160f477c40585c3601ef1ade8
Their telephone:
http://www.pocketgames.jp/salemention/
Thanks
This cable seems to be designed for the Willcom W-Zero3 [es], which features USB host capabilities. So the cable should be connectable to the Diamond, but the lack of drivers will remain as a problem.
A cable alone will not work (trust me, I've tried it just to check)...
Firstly, you need to activate the USB-Host function on the diamond (Soft reset with some other buttons pushed - can't remember what it was though)
Secondly, you need power to the USB device - the Diamond itself will not deliver power to the USB port...
This is why you need the Y cable with so both power and the usb are connedcted to the Diamond...
hey everyone i found this http://forum.ppcwarez.org/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=58813 cant this help us with the usb host for the diamond
Hi all.
I made an Y cable powered with +5V and it really works in Trigger Mode.
Zeno drivers will not work for us, we need OTG drivers for our phones.
I hope someday a developer will give a try with this.
Here's some links:
Here's some code samples
http://www.jungo.com/st/win_ceusb.html
And here's a teardown that maybe useful (or not).
http://www2.electronicproducts.com/HTC_Diamond_P3700-whatsinside-73.aspx
At Platform Builder there's some guides to develop our wished drivers too....
Hi everybody,
This post just to confirm Zeb and Lilitz facts.
After reading all the posts about "Does the Diamond support USB host ?", i decided to try myself:
- connect a self powered hard drive to the Diamond with an USB cable, the one used for another hard drive which is OTG (don't know the particularities of the cable)
- soft reset + vol down + back
- bypass flash from internal storage (have a DIAMIMG.nbh on internal storage)
- the Diamond trigger USB host and wake up the hard drive
So does it ensure that the diamond has host (at least OTG) USB hardware capabilities ? For me, the answer is yes...
But, with the same hard drive, the Zeno drivers don't work.
bump
up..............
I wrote to HTC to have more informations about OTG Diamond's capabilities. Here is the answer:
Dear Sir, Unfortunately, your queries extend beyond the capabilities of our technical support centre. Officially, none of the functions you have mentioned are supported, although it may indeed be possible. For more information, I recommend you contact our developer team in writing at: HTC Headquarters 23 Hsin Hua Rd., Taoyuan 330, Taiwan, Republic Of China Email contact is not accepted by our developers. Best Regards, HTC Europe Customer Care
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does someone want to write to HTC Taiwan ?
maybe this changes something someday http://sven.killig.de/android/N1/2.2/usb_host/
Hey all,
I was wondering if it is possible to communicate with an Arduino with a Tilt through the Tilt's USB port? I've just gotten into device application development and I had a cool idea I was wanting to make but the biggest hurdle is how to communicate between the Arduino microcontroller and the Tilt.
For those that don't know what an Arduino is (I feel sorry for you ), it is a microcontroller platform based off of the AVR Atmel168 processor. The version I've got on hand right now is a Seeeduino that has a mini-USB port on-board communicating to the Atmel168 through an FTDI USB-Serial chip (shows up as a serial port when plugged into the computer). It would be great if the Arduino showed up as a new serial port on the phone when plugged in, but I doubt it will be that easy. Does anyone know if the Tilt/Kaiser USB port can host other devices?
If anyone has a suggestion or has tried something like this, please comment. Or if I'm just crazy for thinking the phone can do this, tell me so.
Thanks all!
-Jeremy
USB drivers
Im not sure how much this could help, but it may get you off to a good start http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=480899
i noticed it said serial port in there somewhere, so i hope it helps!
You can have a try with the drivers mentioned above. If this fails, hook a Bluetooth module to your Arduino and forget about wires
When I was waiting for a haircut today, I was fiddling in the task manager and looked at the devices tab. Just thought I'd run these by you all:
Com 8: serialusbfn.dll (\Drivers\USB\FunctionDrivers\Serial_Class)
Com 9: Serial_UART.dll (Drivers\BuiltIn\SERIAL_UART3)
I haved searched around or messed with these yet but what in the world could com 8 be being used for right now?
-Jeremy
P.S. I did see that link and that will be the next thing I'll try, Thanks!
AFAIK there are some internal peripherals that are connected to the main processor through serial ports. That might be those.
Use I2C - you can get at it through the DS2746... when looking at the PCB on the side with all of the metal-enclosed areas, it's on the left, and towards the bottom (IIRC)... should be able to run 4 wires (get a ribbon cable) out the bottom (into the battery compartment)...
I've been considering this seriously... I2C is a damn useful bus, and it's underused in this device (only battery chip, touch screen, and camera control, AFAIK)....
The bus itself is two wires - SDA (data) and SCL (clock), and you'll also need +5v and ground.
Would be nice to hook up a spare ds1621 (you can get these as free samples) or a compass/accelerometer chip
When I plug my N3 into a USB 3.0 port on my Windows 7 PC (using the cable that came with the phone), it works fine until I select the phone option to use USB 3.0 mode. At that point, my PC stops recognizing the phone (it disappears from Windows Explorer). Has anyone else had this problem, and does anyone know of a solution?
I had this happen to me earlier- I had to plug it into a different USB port while it was still in USB 3.0 mode. For some reason, sometimes when I switch it, it fails to enumerate the device ID. If you quickly plug it into a different USB 3.0 port, it will work. At least for me. YMMV!
eoh7678 said:
I had this happen to me earlier- I had to plug it into a different USB port while it was still in USB 3.0 mode. For some reason, sometimes when I switch it, it fails to enumerate the device ID. If you quickly plug it into a different USB 3.0 port, it will work. At least for me. YMMV!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine works and then randomly a few minutes later it is gone from the PC completely and if i am copying data it stops and i have to restart the connection.
eoh7678 said:
I had this happen to me earlier- I had to plug it into a different USB port while it was still in USB 3.0 mode.!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but that doesn't work for me.
Here's what happens, in more detail. I plug the phone into a front-panel USB 3.0 port. My PC's Windows Explorer then shows the phone as a Portable Media Player, and the phone says "Connected as a media device. Tap for UDB 3.0 and other options". I tap and then set the checkbox for "Media device (USB 3.0), selecting "Use USB 3.0". At that point, the phone immediately vanishes from Windows Explorer, and the USB "Connected as Media Device" notification also vanishes.
In contrast, when I plug the phone into a rear-panel USB 3.0 port, it never connects at all. It does vibrate briefly to show it knows it was plugged in. But neither the PC nor the phone itself gives any other indication of the connection.
Update: I found a different (Intel) rear USB 3.0 port that works. Apparently it's just finicky about what port to connect to. (All drivers on my PC are up-to-date, though.) I haven't tried any file transfers yet, but the phone notification says "Connected as USB 3.0 Media Device", and the PC Windows Explorer shows the phone and can list its files.
usb not even an option
can anybody help me I don't even have the option for 3.0 and I tried it in 3 pcs with 3.0 master reset and just wondering if its a att issue were the rom mybe was defected thanks just thinking about returning device
famejlc said:
can anybody help me I don't even have the option for 3.0 and I tried it in 3 pcs with 3.0 master reset and just wondering if its a att issue were the rom mybe was defected thanks just thinking about returning device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what happened to me when I plugged in to my front 3.0 port the phone would have the charging icon at the top but would not show connected to USB 3.0 port not pull down menu just showed charging if I put into 2.0 ports USB notification pops right up. So I thought my phone was bad and exchanged it and the same thing happened. So I then turned to the PC I went to my laptop which is a Dell with Intel chipset and i7 plug it in and it was recognized right away pull down menu and 3.0 option showed. So off to the store I went while I was there talked to one of the techs and he told me that ASMedia 3.0 controller on the boards where having problems Intel and AMD now I was on track as I have a AMD Sabertooth 990fx board so I did two thing I picked up a M5A99fx Pro 2.0 and a I/O PCI Express 3.0 card one I got had a different controller than AsMedia on it and got lucky and found one that also had a 20 pin port on the card so I could plug my front port cord to the card and it would give me access to the front ports on my tower. I installed the new mother board and the same thing happened then I put the PCI Express card in and hooked my 20 pin cord up and now I have usb 3.0 on the front but the board's ports still won't work with the phone also I tested other flash drives and USB 3.0 drives and it seems that what the tech said is true with my setup AsMedia is have problems with their controller! The PCI Express card is the Vantec one UGT-PC345 and it has then Renesas USB 3.0 Controller on it. I have since went back to my Sabertooth board and returned the M5A99fx my board is just fine just had to ad the card to get 3.0.
Well in my case the third option just doesn't exist its not grayed out its just not they're so I wonder if its a att deal can some one let me know
I dont know if its related but the issue i have is that when i tap the usb 3.0 option, my phone connects and disconnects over and over about 5 times at whic point it goes back to MTP.
Also, i forgot to add... when it stops all the connecting and disconnecting, i get the message that no software was found. I installed Kies, but its the same thing. This is windows 8.
I have same problem , did you find a solution to this
---------- Post added at 09:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 PM ----------
Gary02468 said:
When I plug my N3 into a USB 3.0 port on my Windows 7 PC (using the cable that came with the phone), it works fine until I select the phone option to use USB 3.0 mode. At that point, my PC stops recognizing the phone (it disappears from Windows Explorer). Has anyone else had this problem, and does anyone know of a solution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have same problem , did you find a solution to this
youngblood68 said:
I have same problem , did you find a solution to this[?]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only what I mentioned in the update above--it worked to use a different USB 3.0 port on the same PC. The port that didn't work has a different controller, so there may be a driver problem. But I stopped investigating as soon as I found a port that worked.
ok , I have tried both in put and not working
youngblood68 said:
ok , I have tried both in put and not working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How about a little more info on what your system is. Especially motherboard manufacturer. It seems what ive found in my searching is that most people who are having this issue share one major thing in common and thats the the board manufacturer is ASUS. Im not saying all of them, but most. With that being said im also willing to bet that most problems are on the same USB chip manufacturer. Asmedia chips seem to have the issue. I have 3 towers all with different ASUS boards but all have Asmedia controllers and they all have the same problem. However, if i plug it into my wifes laptop with an intel USB 3 controller, it works perfect.
I have done firmware upgrades, changed BIOS settings, even a reinstall on all 3 systems of the whole OS and in the end i got the same result. The only thing ive been able to get work is if i install ASUS' USB Boost software, my phone will now show its working on 3.0 but only from the rear ports. That being said, if i let it sit at idle for more than about 15-20 minutes, it automatically goes back to USB 2. I dont know if thats intended or if im still having issues.
So, any extra info you can supply might help get a better response. OS, MB manufacturer, controller manufacturer, all of those things will help.
I'm almost 100% certain that BC 1.1 is enabled on your computer. It's extremely common with ASUS boards. It is on other boards as well. Find out how you can disable it from the manufacturer and it will work.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
agent929 said:
I'm almost 100% certain that BC 1.1 is enabled on your computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly. But I don't have BC 1.1 enabled on mine, and I have the same problem on my non-Intel USB 3.0 ports (but the Intel ones work).
Gary02468 said:
Possibly. But I don't have BC 1.1 enabled on mine, and I have the same problem on my non-Intel USB 3.0 ports (but the Intel ones work).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Odd. I wish I had your machine so I could duplicate the problem.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I467 using Tapatalk 4
agent929 said:
I'm almost 100% certain that BC 1.1 is enabled on your computer. It's extremely common with ASUS boards. It is on other boards as well. Find out how you can disable it from the manufacturer and it will work.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. This is the issue I had. I have an Asus motherboard, and I did have Ai Charger+ enabled, that supposedly charges BC 1.1 devices 3x faster.
So for anyone who has AI Suite installed, open it up from the system tray, go to Tool, then Ai Charger+, and make sure it's disabled.
I just re-tried the USB 3.0 port on my PC that previously didn't connect to my N3 in USB 3.0 mode, and it now does. I don't know when or how it got fixed. The hardware is still the same and I haven't manually changed anything on my PC or N3 that would be relevant, so either the PC or the N3 must have received some intervening update that repaired the problem.
Gary02468 said:
When I plug my N3 into a USB 3.0 port on my Windows 7 PC (using the cable that came with the phone), it works fine until I select the phone option to use USB 3.0 mode. At that point, my PC stops recognizing the phone (it disappears from Windows Explorer). Has anyone else had this problem, and does anyone know of a solution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
An incompatible update for the Texas Instruments XHCI controller was delivered through Microsoft Windows Update. If your computer received this update, use the following steps to roll the controller driver back to the previous version:
Click Start , enter device manager into the search field, and click Device Manager from the results.
In Device Manager, click the plus sign (+) next to Universal Serial Bus Controllers to expand the list.
Right-click Texas Instruments XHCI Controller and select Properties . If Texas Instruments XHCI Controller is not listed, then this step will not fix the problem. Find and use another section on this page.
Paulita1 said:
An incompatible update for the Texas Instruments XHCI controller was delivered through Microsoft Windows Update.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but as just mentioned, my problem already fixed itself. Also, my PC doesn't have the TI XHCI controller. Also, the warning you quote is from more than a year ago, so it is very unlikely to still be applicable.
Just received!!!
Unboxing Video!
https://youtu.be/oU2ifSoYcR8
Let us know how it works, I want to order one next week!
https://youtu.be/NZl5I9Ga9xE
Where you will find a walkthrough on the system.
Factory Settings password is 126
Original Settings
https://youtu.be/3pO9Xlwi7Ck
Upgrade from stock to Malaysk's Firmware
want to see how does it look and work in the vehicle, thx.
u.r.rible said:
want to see how does it look and work in the vehicle, thx.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heheeh me too.
The more I do at home the less I need to do seated in the car with the engine running.
3G is still not working, can't save APN; today I'll try to find a powered USB hub.
anyuzo said:
Hello, Huawei E3276 works with Malaysk's rom.
I have a Huawei E3276s-150. First I'd accidentally updated it with the HiLink firmware (22.470.13.00.00), but I've found a post where people said if I navigate to 192.168.1.1/html/switchProjectMode.html I can switch it back to normal mode. (You may have to try the URL a few times, if it doesn't work for the first attempt.) In normal mode I was able to flash the 21.491.03.00.00 firmware. I think it might be a solution for people with E3276 HiLink modems. Then I'd set modem only mode with AT commands, using Tera Term. (Check this out for modem only: http://superuser.com/questions/586049/how-to-force-a-huawei-e3276-lte-modem-to-only-mount-as-a-modem)
Now if I connect the modem to the HU it connects to 3G network in a few seconds.
About unlocking huawei modems, well, google it, it costed me a google +1. Totally worth it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This quote is from the Uber Mega Huge Thread Huifei
I can't make mine work as it came to my hand, I still don't have the modem symbol as @dsa8310 so many times said. Already installed PPP Widget, PPP Widget 2 and Mobile Network Settings. All of them alone, or together with each other or all, with or without Externally powered Belkin F5U404-BLK USB hub in all USB ports from the radio. Does someone knows something that might do this or other hub not work with the radio?
Next step is the dongle's firmware... The quoted above post points to a link that might not be avaiable in the future, so I'll also quote it.
How to force a Huawei E3276 LTE modem to only mount as a modem?
I have a Huawei E3276 LTE USB-modem and I need to force this modem to only mount as a modem when connected to the computer. Per default, the modem also mounts as a CD-drive and a USB mass storage device, which is fine when used with a computer, but a problem when connecting it to a router or similar.
What I've read so far is that you can use PuTTY or similar to connect to the modem over the COM-port, and then send AT-commands to it to configure the modem to only mount as a modem. The AT-command mentioned for most Huawei modems is AT^U2DIAG=0 but when sending it to my modem I receive ERROR in response, which doesn't give me much to work with.
I've also tried AT^U2DIAG? which is said to work for some Huawei modems to display the possible values for this property, but that returns ERROR as well.
I've tried other AT commands, like ATI to get information about model, IMEI etc. which work just fine.
Is there some other command I can use to do this, or is there something else I need to do in order for this to work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use these AT-commands:
AT^SETPORT? - show current mode
AT^SETPORT=? - show available modes
AT^SETPORT="A1,A2;1,2,3" - set "only modem" mode.
Make sure you write down the current mode (using the first command), just in case you want to revert any changes at some later time.
After sending these commands you have to reinsert your modem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should use this command
AT^SETPORT="FF;1"
This command disables all ports excepting the modem port.
I guess you have already solved your problem but I hope this will help other users having the same problem, since I have spent a couple of hours trying to find the solution.
I have a HUAWEI E3131 modem (issued by RCS-RDS in Romania) and now it works with a Edimax 3g-6200n router
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@anyuzo do you have recommendation before I start playing with the dongle's firmware? Mine is already unlocked. Do you think I might have benefit in test it first, in modem only mode first? What's the difference between Hilink and Normal firmware? I found a page that has a very nice amount of Huawei's firmware but it doesn't have the version 21.491.03.00.00. Do you still have it? Can you share it? Google only points to Russian or Polish sites... I can't read cyrilic alfabet... yet
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Also, if I ask details on my connection, this is what I get, my dongle is not making router, I have a direct IP from my ISP.
V 21.491.03.00.00 in Russian Found it
Log from my PuTTY session
ati (info)
Manufacturer: huawei
Model: E3276
Revision: 21.491.03.00.00
IMEI: 863781012162526
+GCAP: +CGSM,+DS,+ES
OK
at^setport? (show current mode)
^SETPORT:A1,A2;10,12,16,A1,A2
OK
AT^SETPORT=? (show available modes)
^SETPORT:1: 3G MODEM
^SETPORT:2: 3G PCUI
^SETPORT:3: 3G DIAG
^SETPORT:5: 3G GPS
^SETPORT:A: BLUE TOOTH
^SETPORT:16: NCM
^SETPORT:A1: CDROM
^SETPORT:A2: SD
^SETPORT:10: 4G MODEM
^SETPORT:12: 4G PCUI
^SETPORT:13: 4G DIAG
^SETPORT:14: 4G GPS
OK
AT^SETPORT="A1,A2;1,2,3" (set "only modem" mode)
OK
Unplugged the dongle and replugled it
ati (info)
Manufacturer: huawei
Model: E3276
Revision: 21.491.03.00.00
IMEI: 863781012162526
+GCAP: +CGSM,+DS,+ES
OK
at^setport? (show current mode)
^SETPORT:A1,A2;10,12,3
OK
AT^SETPORT=? (show available modes)
^SETPORT:1: 3G MODEM
^SETPORT:2: 3G PCUI
^SETPORT:3: 3G DIAG
^SETPORT:5: 3G GPS
^SETPORT:A: BLUE TOOTH
^SETPORT:16: NCM
^SETPORT:A1: CDROM
^SETPORT:A2: SD
^SETPORT:10: 4G MODEM
^SETPORT:12: 4G PCUI
^SETPORT:13: 4G DIAG
^SETPORT:14: 4G GPS
OK
AT^SETPORT="A1,A2;1,2,3" (set "only modem" mode)
Error (Aparentelly it doesn't allow again, maybe it's already setup correctly )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's see if it worked, it's still on 4G because I have strong 4G signal at home...
It's Alive!!!! It connects with PPP Widget (1).
Apparently one problem solved! Now it's bed time. See you guys again tomorrow, this time, in the car!
nleitao said:
It's Alive!!!! It connects with PPP Widget (1).
Apparently one problem solved! Now it's bed time. See you guys again tomorrow, this time, in the car!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad it worked out.
I screamed victory to soon, the connection falls after a few seconds. Adding the USB hub make the radio not recognize the dongle... I guess I need a different hub...
Because ultimately the objective is power the USB ports with a Dc-Dc 12v to 5V converter, and my ports connect to the radio by this cable
My idea is power the USBs directly in the cable; disconecting it on the plug, and connect the wires to the converter. 3A should be enough to the dongle
Here is the one I bought
Ok, after dismantle a 700 mA car cigarette adapter to directly power one of the USB plugs I arrived to the conclusion that it's almost the same ending. Even with the dongle directly powered, 2 things usually happen;
1 - The dongle's blue light stays fixed saying the dongle is connected, but google chrome says no internet.
2 - The dongle's blue light stays fixed saying the dongle is connected, but after a couple seconds the connection falls to blinking again and the reconnection doesn't occur.
Before I wasn't able to add an APN, now I can. ( Apparently it means the HU already detects the modem. )
Any input?
nleitao said:
Ok, after dismantle a 700 mA car cigarette adapter to directly power one of the USB plugs I arrived to the conclusion that it's almost the same ending. Even with the dongle directly powered, 2 things usually happen;
1 - The dongle's blue light stays fixed saying the dongle is connected, but google chrome says no internet.
2 - The dongle's blue light stays fixed saying the dongle is connected, but after a couple seconds the connection falls to blinking again and the reconnection doesn't occur.
Before I wasn't able to add an APN, now I can. ( Apparently it means the HU already detects the modem. )
Any input?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
700mA might not be enough power to run the dongle. I would use at least a 1 amp or 2 amp power source and try again.
The dongle should only draw as much power as it needs.
rickthecabbie said:
700mA might not be enough power to run the dongle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are completely right. I had to tear all apart again, and again cannibalize other 1A adapter but even tough it's not perfect. PPP Widget is unable to auto connect and the connection lots of time must be restarted, not sure if is lack of energy of it's a network issue.. I'm waiting for some ebay 12 to 5v converters with 3A to try it again.
For any one who wants to do the MTC Sound MOD on the KD-C0250 here is how I got it to work.
MTC Sound MOD:
This option removes the resistors and can be undone by the adding the resistors back in place and retuning the headunit back to stock.
Click the image for a bigger picture.
Justsaye said:
For any one who wants to do the MTC Sound MOD on the KD-C0250 here is how I got it to work.
You have two options.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WOW!
Excellent drawings.
Can you do the same drawings for 7floor's original mod? This would make the picture so, so better to understand.
Searching the terms "MTC Sound MOD" only returns this thread... so the question is:
What is the MTC Sound MOD?
Thanks
Nuno
Hi all,
I've just bought a new car and its Android Auto doesn't detect my Xiaomi Mi 6.
I'm running MIUI Global 11.0.3 on Android 9 with Android Auto 4.8.594324.
I connect the original USB cable to the right USB port but nothing happens, both on car and phone. It just starts recharging.
I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling Android Auto on my phone and resetting car infotainment to factory settings but it didn't help.
I've enable Debug USB under Developer Options but it has been useless.
I've given to Android Auto all permissions: autostart, no battery restrictions and access to everything.
I have no cloned apps or cloned accounts.
The smartphone is already connected to the car via bluetooth and the connection works fine.
I know that I should try factory resetting my Xiaomi Mi 6 but I just did it for another reason and it's a pain in the neck.
Is there something else I could try?
Should I try cleaning Google Services cache? Maybe some other service caches?
Is there a custom ROM I could try? Something similar to MIUI or to Android One which is certified to work with Android Auto?
Thanks!
Regarding custom ROMs I found out there are several ones: https://www.getdroidtips.com/list-best-custom-rom-xiaomi-mi-6/
I could try LineageOS, I used to use CyanogenMod back in the days.
I've also found this that should allow me to install an Android Auto Development Head Unit on my PC so I can test if my smartphone is getting recognized, without needing to be in my car.
But I would really love some advices from you, guys, because these are all time-consuming activities I would like to avoid.
Thank you!
Weird, running latest Miui 11 on my Poco F1 and works perfectly in my VW Golf. You've done the correct things to put the program to autostart etc .
The time I tried a custom rom Android Auto was an issue and I immediately went back to MIUI.
Couple of things first. Can you try with another phone? Can you try with a different USB cable? I once had an issue with a cable I used.
That's really weird.
Today I tried with a Huawei Mate 10 Pro from a colleague and it immediately worked fine.
I'm trying with the Xiaomi original USB cable but I've also tried with another good cable from Anker, I have only another one left, I'll try that too.
Anyway, my colleague's phone has been detected when connected with the same cable, so I don't think it's the cable.
When I connect the smartphone to a PC or to Android Auto, using an USB cable, shouldn't the phone pop a notification from which you choose what to do? Recharge only, MTP, PTP, USB mass storage or similar?
I don't have it.
sberla54 said:
That's really weird.
Today I tried with a Huawei from a colleague and it immediately worked fine.
I'm trying with the Xiaomi original USB cable but I've also tried with another good cable from Anker, I have only another one left, I'll try that too.
Anyway, my colleague's phone has been detected when connected with the same cable, so I don't think it's the cable.
When I connect the smartphone to a PC or to Android Auto, using an USB cable, shouldn't the phone pop a notification from which you choose what to do? Recharge only, MTP, PTP, USB mass storage or similar?
I don't have it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, so it's not the car radio or probably not the USB cable. Which car is it actually?
Mine asks for charge, ... ... yup the 3 things when connecting, but not sure if it is the same case if you switch on usb developer options. Does it go into charge if you plug it in?
Do the options show up if you connect it to your pc?
If you start Android Auto (lets call it AA) on the phone and go to -> settings -> connected cars ... does it show anything? or is 'add new cars to AA' switched to 'on'?
Not sure if AA works in safe mode. From what I've read on the internet
-Press the power button till we get pop-up window.
-Then press the restart untill you get a popup to boot in safe mode.
-A restart will take take and your phone will be in safe mode.
There are some emulators on Windows and I use a raspberry pi if I need to play and don't want to go to the car all the time which might make it easier to get it running.
I know 1000 things and it can drive you crazy.
The car is a Skoda Karoq from 2019.
The smartphone correctly starts recharging when connected to USB.
When connecting, the three options don't show up. I've tried connecting it to a Windows PC and to a Linux PC, same results.
Doing this test on Windows, I've noticed I'm having issues connecting the phone to a PC and I'm receiving an error "USB device not recognised":
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I think this could be the root cause of my AA connection problem.
I've replaced the Xiaomi Mi 6 USB port few months ago, since it was broken, and maybe the new one is unable to bring up a data transfer.
I'll try to reset my smartphone to factory reset to see if it's a software glitch but now I'm pretty sure it's an hardware one.
lukesan said:
Not sure if AA works in safe mode. From what I've read on the internet
-Press the power button till we get pop-up window.
-Then press the restart untill you get a popup to boot in safe mode.
-A restart will take take and your phone will be in safe mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good advice, I wasn't aware of that!
I'll keep that in mind.
lukesan said:
If you start Android Auto (lets call it AA) on the phone and go to -> settings -> connected cars ... does it show anything? or is 'add new cars to AA' switched to 'on'?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, unfortunately it doesn't show anything. Add new cars to AA is on.
I'll let you know how it goes with the USB connection to PC test!
Skoda Karoq, nice, probably the same unit as in my VW.
Well I guess you found your issue. No data via pc will also be a no go for AA since the data of the screen etc also seems to go through the USB interface.
A thing you could try, try to put the phone into fastboot. Normally you will need other drivers .... but I'm afraid it will be the port itself which is broken or not communicating like it should.
Does it even fast charge? Normally a charger negotiates via the data lines what the output will be (referring to QC modes etc)
Seems you are techie enough to get a charge doctor / usb tester on like aliexpress for a couple of euro which will show more.
lukesan said:
Skoda Karoq, nice, probably the same unit as in my VW.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! It's probably the same unit, rebranded, with a different UI
lukesan said:
Skoda Karoq, nice, probably the same unit as in my VW.
Well I guess you found your issue. No data via pc will also be a no go for AA since the data of the screen etc also seems to go through the USB interface.
A thing you could try, try to put the phone into fastboot. Normally you will need other drivers .... but I'm afraid it will be the port itself which is broken or not communicating like it should.
Does it even fast charge? Normally a charger negotiates via the data lines what the output will be (referring to QC modes etc)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trying in Fastboot is a good idea but I think you're right when you're saying it's the port iself.
I fixed this Mi 6 myself, since the USB port was broken, I opened it, replaced USB port and battery and glued it back.
The phone recharges itself correctly and fast but I rarely connect it to my PC so the new USB connector has probably had this malfunction since I installed it, but I never noticed before.
lukesan said:
Seems you are techie enough to get a charge doctor / usb tester on like aliexpress for a couple of euro which will show more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't knew these things even existed! :laugh:
Anyway, I think I'll quit testing and I'll buy a new phone, since I don't have time and will to fix this Xiaomi Mi 6 another time.
I'll probably buy a Xiaomi Mi 9T or a Xiaomi Mi 9T Pro.
Just to track everything, before finding out the hardware problem, I did some other useless tests:
I've enabled Debug USB under Developers Options;
I've uninstalled and reinstalled AA a couple of times, also deleting all its data;
I've tried with another third USB C cable;
I've uninstalled Car Home Ultra I was keeping on my phone as a backup for AA;
I've uninstalled Battery Widget 2019 Pro, just to understand if he was messing with USB connection.
Thanks lukesan for helping me with tests and pointing me in the right direction.
I'll come back here and let you know how this ends, when I'll have a new phone
You're welcome. And if the new phone also doesn't work swap the car too. . I personally would go for the Xiaomi Mi 9T Pro but that is me.
As per my advice buy one of those USB measure things. I highly recommend this RD UM34 or the C version. For 14 euro It has saved me a lot to take the guessing out of most things. I just had someone wanting to throw out her tablet since it doesn't charge anymore. 4 years old. It's just a cable issue, the battery and charger are fine.
Want to measure the capacity of the battery. No worries. let it charge from 0 to 100% and check how many mWh went into it. You can also check the QC rates and voltages on the D+ and D- lines or how good or bad cables are.
lukesan said:
You're welcome. And if the new phone also doesn't work swap the car too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would be a mess explain to the bank why I don't want anymore that loan I've already signed
"You know, my car doesn't work with AA, so here's you thousands euros back" :laugh:
lukesan said:
I personally would go for the Xiaomi Mi 9T Pro but that is me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's also my favourite so far, for the better and faster CPU, but I don't want to pay 100 euros more than the Mi 9T only for that.
I'll keep an eye at discounts on GearBest and Banggood.
lukesan said:
As per my advice buy one of those USB measure things. I highly recommend this RD UM34 or the C version. For 14 euro It has saved me a lot to take the guessing out of most things. I just had someone wanting to throw out her tablet since it doesn't charge anymore. 4 years old. It's just a cable issue, the battery and charger are fine.
Want to measure the capacity of the battery. No worries. let it charge from 0 to 100% and check how many mWh went into it. You can also check the QC rates and voltages on the D+ and D- lines or how good or bad cables are.
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That's cool stuff!
I'll definitively buy one in my next AliExpress or GearBest order, maybe when I'll buy the phone
Hi @lukesan, hi all,
here I am again. I can confirm it was an hardware issue. The USB connector in my Xiaomi Mi 6 was faulty.
I've eventually bought a new Xiaomi Mi 9T (regular, not Pro) and it's working fine.
It has been immediately detected the first time I connected it, without any particular configuration and with the same cable I was using before.
I'm just having a minor, but annoying, issue: Android Auto randomly disconnects itself during the drive.
Sometimes it doesn't disconnect at all, more often it disconnects one or two times in a 30 minutes ride and seldom it disconnects every 5 minutes.
I've already uninstalled and re-installed Android Auto on my phone, I've given all possible permissions to it, including Auto Start, and I've disable MIUI battery optimization.
I'm using Android Auto 4.9.594934 on MIUI Global 11.0.3.
Any ideas on this issue?
I'm using a brand new short cable (10 cm) from MYLBOO (USB Type C Cable 5A,USB C Cable 5A,MYLBOO High Speed Charging & Data Transfer USB 3.0 Type C Charging Cable for Samsung Galaxy S9 S8 Note 8, LG, Huawei，Sony,and others USB Type-C supported devi (0.1m) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZZW155/) but since today I'm trying with the original Xiaomi recharge cable, which is uncomfortable because it's too long and doesn't fit the phone box of my car.
I've already done some researches and I see people is solving similar issues with Anker Powerline+ cables (like this Anker Powerline+ USB C to USB A Fast Charging Cable, for Samsung Galaxy Note 8 / S8 / S8+ / S9 /S10, Sony XZ, LG V20 / G5 / G6, Xiaomi 5 and More (3ft) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G5WSK2), so in case I'll try one of those, but they're also too long for my car.
They're talking about that in this thread: https://support.google.com/androidauto/thread/13722361
I've also found this Android Auto FAQ which could be useful for anyone who's reading: [FAQ] Can’t connect or stay connected - How to diagnose/address the issue - https://support.google.com/androidauto/thread/2467281
I'll try to come back here to write how this ends, too.
Thank you again for your help, lukesan!
No worries man, glad you finally have AA in the car. Sure that Mi9 T is more than fast enough!
I had the same issues and it is both annoying as it is dangerous. Probably it's the cable. (lol check the reviews on your link)
I have some sh*t cables that (seemingly, you guess what I recommended to measure the current) that charge ok but still slower than other good cables and disconnect randomly in the car. Coincidentally the 2 cables that I know for a fact that I have issues with are braided cables (you know the ones with the cloth around them). They were cheap and there is no brand name on them.
The cables I now use everywhere are from Orico or Ugreen which you can buy for really cheap on Aliexpress (but have to wait for a couple of weeks, hint: check shipping options and for 1 or 2 euro more take the registered or alie standard one). I always buy spare cables in all length variations and I tend to have spares at my work and in the car.
I even have a 3 meter long cable which still charges full speed and is ideal when I travel and stay in hotels. Check the reviews and variation of cables. (saw a 25cm Ugreen one while doing a quick look)
That Anker is also a very good brand but unfortunately for you a bit on the long side for use in the car. Btw : Their chargers are also very good
Hi @lukesan, hi mate,
I've ended up buying a short UGreen 90 degrees cable, as you suggested, and it's working great!
It's this one, 50 cm (1.5 ft): UGREEN USB C Right Angle Cable 90 Degree Type C Fast Charger Compatible for Samsung Galaxy S10 S10E S9 S8 Plus Note 9 8, LG G8 G7 V20 V40 V30 G6 G5, Nintendo Switch, GoPro Hero 7 8 5 6 (1.5ft) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFHB3R4/
The only issue is that the 90 degree angle is in the wrong direction and the cable gets pressed against the border of my phone box, so I don't think it will last as long as it would have (but that's my usual luck):
I'll probably buy a couple of spares of the same cable.
A friend of mine also suggested me this cheap cable he's using on his Kia Stonic: 4A Reload 25CM USB 3.1 Type-C Quick Sync Cable for Game OnePlus 6T / 5T - Red 25cm - https://it.gearbest.com/chargers-ca...=1433363&_branch_match_id=743761025176719207#
I'll probably buy a couple of them too, since they can be oriented in both directions.
So, I think I've solved all my AA issues!
Thank you very much again for your help!