Database Develop

USB master capabilities on the Diamond

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2474331#post2474331
I did some tests here and need help with finding some USB drivers for WM6.1 to have the flash show up in the OS as well under the bootloader.
This works. Please try Yourself befor flaming.
The Diamond has USB on the Go features.
I have not yet been able to power the USB device from the Diamond as I do not have 11 pin mini usb connector with all pins attached inside.
I just took a USB flash stick from the shelf and formatted it to FAT32.
put a firmware image (shine08.nbh) on it.
renamed it to DIAMIMG.NBH.
powered up the phone with vol down and right button held in.
pressed power button when the phone had found the image on the memstick to start flashing.
nbh file is the only file needed on the memstick.
no computer needed to do the flashing.
It is all described in te confidential service manual except of the cable used(it is just mentioned as the USB Y cable).
The cable works as this:
The gnd and usb signals goes from the phone to the USB memstick connector.
The USB memstick connector gets power from an external 5 volt supply (or a PC usb port,flyppy,hdd.....)

zeb crs said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2474331#post2474331
I did some tests here and need help with finding some USB drivers for WM6.1 to have the flash show up in the OS as well under the bootloader.
This works. Please try Yourself befor flaming.
The Diamond has USB on the Go features.
I have not yet been able to power the USB device from the Diamond as I do not have 11 pin mini usb connector with all pins attached inside.
I just took a USB flash stick from the shelf and formatted it to FAT32.
put a firmware image (shine08.nbh) on it.
renamed it to DIAMIMG.NBH.
powered up the phone with vol down and right button held in.
pressed power button when the phone had found the image on the memstick to start flashing.
nbh file is the only file needed on the memstick.
no computer needed to do the flashing.
It is all described in te confidential service manual except of the cable used(it is just mentioned as the USB Y cable).
The cable works as this:
The gnd and usb signals goes from the phone to the USB memstick connector.
The USB memstick connector gets power from an external 5 volt supply (or a PC usb port,flyppy,hdd.....)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why did you start a new thread just post to the right thread. you even linked to it

OMG!!!!!
doh!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the useful info
Well I guess thanks for the info would have been appropriate before "flying off the handle" , so I'll say thanks on behalf of those of us who appreciate your efforts.
Sorry you can keep all the people happy all of the time
Regards
Chad McAlister
_______________________
Phone: HTC Touch Diamond

Hi there,
I'm new here and not yet owner of an xda, but it's already dispatched at the sellers'.
Thanks go to zeb crs for working this possibility out. As soon as I can, I'll begin working on the problem, and be it writing a new driver. An usb host is really the most important feature to add to my xda, because I always have a copy of my Music and Files with me on a wd passport drive. For power problems, I plan to build a 5V AA-Powersupply for charging the xda and powering the hdd.
If anyone knows of new things I should consider, please tell me!

Just a thought
Not sure if I'm really telling people stuff they already know, but it's just a bit of food for thought...
There's so many posts about this that it's impossible to answer answer the right questions in the right posts, and give everyone a nice wholesome answer, so I'm just going to use this one...
Somewhere in some post, someone mentioned that trying to power a USB while connected to the Diamond could possibly short the phone and destroy it... Well, taking to things into consideration, I don't think it's exactly an issue:
1) the Diamond is charged via the mini-USB port, so whouldn't the power just be going to the same place anyway...?
2) the Y-cable used in the 'top secret' service manual is basically doing just that - you simply use a Y-cable to get the power source to the USB drive - this would be because the diamond will not power out frmo the mini-USB
Ok, so those are my thoughts there...
My other thoughts were that many years ago, I came across an old iPAQ, which came with a special sleeve you could 'plug' it into, which included a spot for external memory - the iPAQ itself did not come with an external memory slot...
So why can't a similar thing be done for the Diamond...?
Take one of those 'extender' battery kits http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15622 and do a bit of crafting on it to include power direct from the batter to an external memory slot all included in the enlarged battery cover... that should take care of the 'carring extra cables and other rubbish' issue that people brought up...
Sure, the Diamond will be a bit thicker (but not too thick) plus you'll get some extra battery life...
Sure this doesn't help with any of the driver issues, or the fact the Dimond has to be reset with the buttons pushed at the right time to trigger 'USB host' mode, but I feel that there are enough clever people out there (much cleverer than me) who could possibly write a simple add-on program that you could initiate which would reste the diamond in the right way to trigger the hosting mode, and while it might not be possible to use the Diamond as a phone in the trigger mode, perhaps instead, it could swap a designated portion of the internal memory with the memory on the external storage device - live swap the video and music folders - that way you're just now accessing stuff you couldn't access before, and since you can't listen to 2 songs at once, it doesn't really matter that you can't access the folders that you just swapped out...
I hope that makes sense...
anyway, just some thoughts - hope it's useful to someone....
Oh, and I guess some drivers could be sourced off the Pro... (maybe)

USB Host Cable
have anyone tried fabricating this cable and tried it in diamond? http://www.nazo-fjt.com/ptcep/w-zero3/es_usb.html
it's in japanese though, but in seconds through babelfish, it is readable in english.
anybody? haven't got any much of electronics hardware resources in my current place, but surely, back at home in the PH, can get loads of hardware stuffs...

f7b7r7 said:
have anyone tried fabricating this cable and tried it in diamond? http://www.nazo-fjt.com/ptcep/w-zero3/es_usb.html
it's in japanese though, but in seconds through babelfish, it is readable in english.
anybody? haven't got any much of electronics hardware resources in my current place, but surely, back at home in the PH, can get loads of hardware stuffs...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the cable/adaptor you are looking for:
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Pocket USB host cable and pocket USB host adapter.
Links:
http://www.pocketgames.jp/item_detail/itemId,40/
http://www.pocketgames.jp/item_detail/itemId,39/
http://www.pocketgames.jp/item_detail/itemId,17/
But the problem is that the site is in Japaneese Language.
I can't find any way to contact them, because I don't speak Japaneese.
If any one can please help us.
The only method I found to contact them is this page:
https://xc523.eccart.jp/b877/inquir...588bd306fd6216e06286160f477c40585c3601ef1ade8
Their telephone:
http://www.pocketgames.jp/salemention/
Thanks

This cable seems to be designed for the Willcom W-Zero3 [es], which features USB host capabilities. So the cable should be connectable to the Diamond, but the lack of drivers will remain as a problem.

A cable alone will not work (trust me, I've tried it just to check)...
Firstly, you need to activate the USB-Host function on the diamond (Soft reset with some other buttons pushed - can't remember what it was though)
Secondly, you need power to the USB device - the Diamond itself will not deliver power to the USB port...
This is why you need the Y cable with so both power and the usb are connedcted to the Diamond...

hey everyone i found this http://forum.ppcwarez.org/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=58813 cant this help us with the usb host for the diamond

Hi all.
I made an Y cable powered with +5V and it really works in Trigger Mode.
Zeno drivers will not work for us, we need OTG drivers for our phones.
I hope someday a developer will give a try with this.
Here's some links:
Here's some code samples
http://www.jungo.com/st/win_ceusb.html
And here's a teardown that maybe useful (or not).
http://www2.electronicproducts.com/HTC_Diamond_P3700-whatsinside-73.aspx
At Platform Builder there's some guides to develop our wished drivers too....

Hi everybody,
This post just to confirm Zeb and Lilitz facts.
After reading all the posts about "Does the Diamond support USB host ?", i decided to try myself:
- connect a self powered hard drive to the Diamond with an USB cable, the one used for another hard drive which is OTG (don't know the particularities of the cable)
- soft reset + vol down + back
- bypass flash from internal storage (have a DIAMIMG.nbh on internal storage)
- the Diamond trigger USB host and wake up the hard drive
So does it ensure that the diamond has host (at least OTG) USB hardware capabilities ? For me, the answer is yes...
But, with the same hard drive, the Zeno drivers don't work.

bump
up..............

I wrote to HTC to have more informations about OTG Diamond's capabilities. Here is the answer:
Dear Sir, Unfortunately, your queries extend beyond the capabilities of our technical support centre. Officially, none of the functions you have mentioned are supported, although it may indeed be possible. For more information, I recommend you contact our developer team in writing at: HTC Headquarters 23 Hsin Hua Rd., Taoyuan 330, Taiwan, Republic Of China Email contact is not accepted by our developers. Best Regards, HTC Europe Customer Care
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does someone want to write to HTC Taiwan ?

maybe this changes something someday http://sven.killig.de/android/N1/2.2/usb_host/

Nexus 7 on a VW Transporter

Hi everyone,
This post is about a love story between a nexus 7 and a VW Transporter.
It all starts by needing a gps in car for deliveries or just to navigate over alternative roads.
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Personally I dont ever liked the original VW dashboard, it's really boring, doesnt have nothing, not even a 'cool' radio.
So, 2 years ago we put one new radio that supports usb playing (WOW! Even when I got home, I stay in the car just to hear music), new wiring sound cables and some new Pioneer columns.
The paintjob its pretty damaged by now, so we start recovering it this year, all motor parts being veryfied.
TO DO LIST
Painting it with EWP WHITE BRANQUISE _link, black roof.
2.4 diesel engine and fuel pump revised, all oils changed, timing belt changed,
new tires, new rims, new brake pads and discs, new full exhaust system
Lights: daylights led using old headlights, xenon kit, led stop lights (3rd stop led bar too),
all domelights changed to LED, license plate light changed to led, odometer led
Extra: New dash (home-made) with Nexus 7, start button, parking sensors,
all interior has been cleaned and renewed.
TIMELINE
11/2012
Buying n7
Window mount for gps nav
Root and install SmoothROM
30/1/2013
Bootanimation w/ VW logo
2/2013
Idea to make a new dash myself that includes a built-in tablet.
Not anymore that ugly and sad dash.
Doing it in spare time
3/2013 > 5/2013
Starting hardwork with motor and new belts.
Some paintjob under the hood.
All front painted.
6/2013
Original dashboard remove. Keeping my headunit.
Trying solutions to fit new one, and easiest way to take n7 with me when needed.
7/2013
Ordered some parts, chargers, hub, etc.
8/2013
"Ain't nobody got time for dat!" :/
9/2013
Painting
Discovered USB-ROM and installed it, pretty amazing, extreme battery save
USB host pretty much like a computer. Doesnt understand yet how to install drivers.
Buying a webcam for test recording with dailyroads
10/2013
Daytime LED headlights audi style
Ordered parts, dc-dc converters, otg cable, usb extension, switch on/off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WIRING DIAGRAM
Charging tablet and HUB: dc-dc 12v-5v 3a charges tablet + dc-dc usb 5v 2a for external powering a 4-ports hub.
Connected to HUB: Huawei 3G HSDPA stick, HD-3000 webcam, dvb/fm stick, extension usb cable (usb port in dash)
Source: __link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Phone: And a dual usb-port 5v 3a for charge my phone and fm transmitter (because my phones bluetooth wastes my battery)
ROM/KERNEL
USB-ROM (update 17-08-2013) with USB-host kernel by Timur __link1 __link2
Really the best ROM/Kernel for a car install.
One night (8 hours) without charging, only loss 2% batt. Also supports fast charging.
AUTO-POWER-ON WHEN IGN-ON __link
Even when n7 is completly off, when charger connected it automatically turns on.
Code:
fastboot oem off-mode-charge 0
revert:
Code:
fastboot oem off-mode-charge 1
BOOTANIMATION
This is what I did using photoshop and a simple tutorial:
It is only a sample, using desc.txt its faster than this gif.
Tutorial: __link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TASKER
When IGN-ON:
keyguard off, airplane mode off, GPS on, start video dailyroads, launch NDrive, play music,
WiFi on (for PPP Widget + 3G Huawei HSDPA), and keep display ON USB.
IGN-OFF:
airplane mode on, pause music, stop video dailyroads + kill app, go home page 1,
lock screen, kill all apps (dont needed apps), deep sleep
WEBCAM DASH + RECORDING
I bought a HD-3000 webcam thats connected via otg and hub. Reading this post u will know that is possible to connect webcams and uvc sticks+cctv cam.
All devices must be UVC-COMPLIANT, check this list: __link
After this, i've been testing dashcam apps like DailyRoads, AutoGuard, AutoBoy, iOnRoad. For me, till now, the best with my configuration is DailyRoads (and because its a free app)
If you have OBD2 BT adapter you can also use Torque + Track recorder plugin.
This configuration will disable your front cam. redeyedjedi said that found a way to make both work, but I already try it and get stuck on bootloader.
Anyone please try his solution: __link
THIS IS ALL I USED:
My beautiful NEXUS 7 32GB WIFI :')
OTG cable (transform it myself to do a OTG-Y-cable + external powering hub, see wiring diagram)
OTG Angled cable
DVB FM rtl2832u (waiting for it)
Huawei 3G hsdpa stick (w unlimited traffic)
USB HUB 4ports
USB extension (from hub to dashboard)
Dual usb port charger 5v 3a
DC-DC 12v-5v 3a
Voltmeter & Ampmeter
Cooling system
Webcam Microsoft HD-3000
FM Transmitter (for phone)
3,5mm spliter + 3,5mm to RCA cable (left/right)
Cable directly from positive battery with 10a fuse
ON/off switch / circuit breaker
OBD2 ELM327 BT (dont work with this car)
APPS INSTALLED AND WHY
Free:
PPP Widget -using for connect my 3g stick, internet anywhere with a wifi n7 :')
3CX Phone -for VoIP calls (with free calls (only for Portugal fixed numbers))
Deliveries -real time parcels tracking
Audio Glow Visualizer -only used when dont need gps (thanks to PHiL_G4 & Kookie_Monster)
MX Player
NDrive 10 -navigation app (offline maps)
DailyRoads +HD-3000 -very nice, dash cam recording app
*not tested* SDR Touch + RTL2832u driver (If works fine, maybe need to change a bit of this project and dont keep the headunit)
Paid:
Poweramp PRO +ICS Theme -for me, best music player.
Solid Explorer PRO -organize, manage files
Torque PRO -amazing!
Tasker PRO
FUTURE TO DO LIST
Have to try somehow if can have two cameras connected (webcam in dash and a rear cam).
Webcam should still recording, and when put in rear gear it opens carcam app ou simplewebcam app to show rear cam.
Dont know if this will work. __link
I have a Easycap 4CH 1c88:0007 but cant put it working, someone knows how to install it? Drivers? Non-compatible?
PLEASE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTION, I'M KINDLY LISTENING TO ALL OPTIONS
.

Shooting time
Reserved for beautiful pics.

Having a T5 and thinking about transforming my simple din sony car unit into a multimedia center with a nexus 7, I'm very interesting about seeing how you integrated it into the dashboard.
If you have any picts of the nexus in place would be great.
Thx in advance ! T5 rules

Xyleme said:
Having a T5 and thinking about transforming my simple din sony car unit into a multimedia center with a nexus 7, I'm very interesting about seeing how you integrated it into the dashboard.
If you have any picts of the nexus in place would be great.
Thx in advance ! T5 rules
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey!
I actually have a T4 so its a bit easier, but you can look for a din that fits with n7
link1 link2 link3 link4
Hope this help you, I think you want OEM original look.
Tell me if you get it done

AVH-4100-NEX With Chromecast

If anyone is interested, I posted a YouTube video of my 4100-NEX set up with Chormecast.

Cool thanks

That was nice!!! But i cant get the damn Android Auto or Mirrorlink or App Radio to work... i got the USB and HDMI plugged to the pioneer MHL converter to my micro usb port in my phone and it doesnt detect it
Sent from my SM-G925P using XDA Free mobile app

XTeCnOX said:
That was nice!!! But i cant get the damn Android Auto or Mirrorlink or App Radio to work... i got the USB and HDMI plugged to the pioneer MHL converter to my micro usb port in my phone and it doesnt detect it
Sent from my SM-G925P using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have my micro usb connected to usb port 2 for the android auto. Make sure the parking brake is set the first time you set up android auto. Might also have to have usb debugging turned on. Only works right now with certain phones, and needs lollipop 5.0 or better. You probably already knew that. If you haven't done the firmware update for the 4100, do that first.
Worked the first time with my Nexus 6.

pjosman said:
I have my micro usb connected to usb port 2 for the android auto. Make sure the parking brake is set the first time you set up android auto. Might also have to have usb debugging turned on. Only works right now with certain phones, and needs lollipop 5.0 or better. You probably already knew that. If you haven't done the firmware update for the 4100, do that first.
Worked the first time with my Nexus 6.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes my parking brake is on. I have the Galaxy S6 which is not in the supported list but it does have Android 5.0 and I was able to download Android Auto App from Google play... I also attempted to do it with my old Galaxy S4 but it doesn't have Android 5.0 so cant download Android Auto... and to top that for MirrorLink I guess I need this Samsung Drive Link App which is not compatible with either phone!
its frustrating... Samsung is not keeping up with the Car technology... for the most part on Samsung's end I keep hearing it mostly works with the Galaxy S3 and some people have it working half ass on the Galaxy S5.

earsmccoy said:
If anyone is interested, I posted a YouTube video of my 4100-NEX set up with Chormecast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whats the parking break bypass called or link please. I can't find it on amazon specifically for 4100.

killa2009 said:
Whats the parking break bypass called or link please. I can't find it on amazon specifically for 4100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the Amazon link for the Microbpass that is needed for the 4100,
http://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Parking-Automatic-Interface-AVH-4100NEX/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429570863&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=micro+bypass+4100

Thanks

The bypasses are relatively easy to make with a relay as well. The reason you can't just ground it out is they went above and beyond to make sure it is only active when the break is on. So, you have to create a delay in the bypass. Attach the amp on wire to the relay, the ground and the emergency break, and you're good to go. It is cheaper and quicker, as any decent electronic store will have the relay. Mine was $4 from RadioShack (RIP). This diagram shows it...
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Sent from my Blissful RAZR M 5.1 from Tapatalk

You do not need a bypass! I just bought the 6100-nex. Turn off radio to standby mode. Hold finger 1/2" up from bottom and 1/2" in from left side of screen for like 30-60 seconds. There are YouTube vids on it. Works on all nex radios. Also only the Samsung MHL/HDMI 2.0 adapter will work. NOT the pioneer one.
Sent from my SM-G900P using XDA Free mobile app

pimpsht421 said:
You do not need a bypass! I just bought the 6100-nex. Turn off radio to standby mode. Hold finger 1/2" up from bottom and 1/2" in from left side of screen for like 30-60 seconds. There are YouTube vids on it. Works on all nex radios.
Sent from my SM-G900P using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The AVH NEX's do require a bypass.
The AVIC NEX's don't require a bypass.

Nice! I'm hoping to pick up am android auto head unit soon. Once those pioneer ones come down in price that is.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using XDA Free mobile app

How do you get the chromecast set up to work outside your home network?

slaakker said:
How do you get the chromecast set up to work outside your home network?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Turn on your phone's WiFi hotspot
-Connect a computer to it
-Set up your chromecast to use your phones hot spot as the network
-Plug your chromecast into your radio
Now whenever you want to use your Chromecast you just have to turn on the hotspot feature on your phone. The Chromecast will connect to the hotspot and you can cast to it just like it was on your home (or any other) network.

Thanks!

Stupid question... This vs mirroring or like the unchained app.... no cables?? Not trying to be an ass about to pull the trigger on the appradio4 or 4100-nex so trying to see all the possibilities.. Thanks

earsmccoy said:
If anyone is interested, I posted a YouTube video of my 4100-NEX set up with Chormecast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! Just got the 6 edge plus last week which lacks any form of video out via hdmi/mhl which was unfortunate but this would resolve that issue! Going to try this asap

Got mine all hooked up yesterday. Seems to be working good. Kind of takes a bit of time getting all synched up, but works good when going.
Sent from my P01MA using Tapatalk

This might be a stupid question, but if you set your Chromecast up to stream to your AVH-4100NEX over your phone's WiFi hotspot and then bring it back into your house to plug into your TV will it automatically recognize your home WiFi network or do you have to set it up again? I haven't gone through the initial setup process with my Chromecast for a while so I don't remember if it has memory for prior network setups. Not that I'll use the Chromecast in my car all that much, but they are cheap enough to justify buying two units if it becomes a hassle to reconfigure the Chromecast every time you transfer it between your home and car.

kjdBonez said:
This might be a stupid question, but if you set your Chromecast up to stream to your AVH-4100NEX over your phone's WiFi hotspot and then bring it back into your house to plug into your TV will it automatically recognize your home WiFi network or do you have to set it up again? I haven't gone through the initial setup process with my Chromecast for a while so I don't remember if it has memory for prior network setups. Not that I'll use the Chromecast in my car all that much, but they are cheap enough to justify buying two units if it becomes a hassle to reconfigure the Chromecast every time you transfer it between your home and car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so. As far as I know, the Chromecast will only look for the network it was set up on. ( sorry for the late response.)

Android Auto not detecting Xiaomi Mi 6 with MIUI Global 11.0.3 (Android 9)

Hi all,
I've just bought a new car and its Android Auto doesn't detect my Xiaomi Mi 6.
I'm running MIUI Global 11.0.3 on Android 9 with Android Auto 4.8.594324.
I connect the original USB cable to the right USB port but nothing happens, both on car and phone. It just starts recharging.
I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling Android Auto on my phone and resetting car infotainment to factory settings but it didn't help.
I've enable Debug USB under Developer Options but it has been useless.
I've given to Android Auto all permissions: autostart, no battery restrictions and access to everything.
I have no cloned apps or cloned accounts.
The smartphone is already connected to the car via bluetooth and the connection works fine.
I know that I should try factory resetting my Xiaomi Mi 6 but I just did it for another reason and it's a pain in the neck.
Is there something else I could try?
Should I try cleaning Google Services cache? Maybe some other service caches?
Is there a custom ROM I could try? Something similar to MIUI or to Android One which is certified to work with Android Auto?
Thanks!

Regarding custom ROMs I found out there are several ones: https://www.getdroidtips.com/list-best-custom-rom-xiaomi-mi-6/
I could try LineageOS, I used to use CyanogenMod back in the days.
I've also found this that should allow me to install an Android Auto Development Head Unit on my PC so I can test if my smartphone is getting recognized, without needing to be in my car.
But I would really love some advices from you, guys, because these are all time-consuming activities I would like to avoid.
Thank you!

Weird, running latest Miui 11 on my Poco F1 and works perfectly in my VW Golf. You've done the correct things to put the program to autostart etc .
The time I tried a custom rom Android Auto was an issue and I immediately went back to MIUI.
Couple of things first. Can you try with another phone? Can you try with a different USB cable? I once had an issue with a cable I used.

That's really weird.
Today I tried with a Huawei Mate 10 Pro from a colleague and it immediately worked fine.
I'm trying with the Xiaomi original USB cable but I've also tried with another good cable from Anker, I have only another one left, I'll try that too.
Anyway, my colleague's phone has been detected when connected with the same cable, so I don't think it's the cable.
When I connect the smartphone to a PC or to Android Auto, using an USB cable, shouldn't the phone pop a notification from which you choose what to do? Recharge only, MTP, PTP, USB mass storage or similar?
I don't have it.

sberla54 said:
That's really weird.
Today I tried with a Huawei from a colleague and it immediately worked fine.
I'm trying with the Xiaomi original USB cable but I've also tried with another good cable from Anker, I have only another one left, I'll try that too.
Anyway, my colleague's phone has been detected when connected with the same cable, so I don't think it's the cable.
When I connect the smartphone to a PC or to Android Auto, using an USB cable, shouldn't the phone pop a notification from which you choose what to do? Recharge only, MTP, PTP, USB mass storage or similar?
I don't have it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, so it's not the car radio or probably not the USB cable. Which car is it actually?
Mine asks for charge, ... ... yup the 3 things when connecting, but not sure if it is the same case if you switch on usb developer options. Does it go into charge if you plug it in?
Do the options show up if you connect it to your pc?
If you start Android Auto (lets call it AA) on the phone and go to -> settings -> connected cars ... does it show anything? or is 'add new cars to AA' switched to 'on'?
Not sure if AA works in safe mode. From what I've read on the internet
-Press the power button till we get pop-up window.
-Then press the restart untill you get a popup to boot in safe mode.
-A restart will take take and your phone will be in safe mode.
There are some emulators on Windows and I use a raspberry pi if I need to play and don't want to go to the car all the time which might make it easier to get it running.
I know 1000 things and it can drive you crazy.

The car is a Skoda Karoq from 2019.
The smartphone correctly starts recharging when connected to USB.
When connecting, the three options don't show up. I've tried connecting it to a Windows PC and to a Linux PC, same results.
Doing this test on Windows, I've noticed I'm having issues connecting the phone to a PC and I'm receiving an error "USB device not recognised":
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I think this could be the root cause of my AA connection problem.
I've replaced the Xiaomi Mi 6 USB port few months ago, since it was broken, and maybe the new one is unable to bring up a data transfer.
I'll try to reset my smartphone to factory reset to see if it's a software glitch but now I'm pretty sure it's an hardware one.
lukesan said:
Not sure if AA works in safe mode. From what I've read on the internet
-Press the power button till we get pop-up window.
-Then press the restart untill you get a popup to boot in safe mode.
-A restart will take take and your phone will be in safe mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good advice, I wasn't aware of that!
I'll keep that in mind.
lukesan said:
If you start Android Auto (lets call it AA) on the phone and go to -> settings -> connected cars ... does it show anything? or is 'add new cars to AA' switched to 'on'?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, unfortunately it doesn't show anything. Add new cars to AA is on.
I'll let you know how it goes with the USB connection to PC test!

Skoda Karoq, nice, probably the same unit as in my VW.
Well I guess you found your issue. No data via pc will also be a no go for AA since the data of the screen etc also seems to go through the USB interface.
A thing you could try, try to put the phone into fastboot. Normally you will need other drivers .... but I'm afraid it will be the port itself which is broken or not communicating like it should.
Does it even fast charge? Normally a charger negotiates via the data lines what the output will be (referring to QC modes etc)
Seems you are techie enough to get a charge doctor / usb tester on like aliexpress for a couple of euro which will show more.

lukesan said:
Skoda Karoq, nice, probably the same unit as in my VW.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! It's probably the same unit, rebranded, with a different UI
lukesan said:
Skoda Karoq, nice, probably the same unit as in my VW.
Well I guess you found your issue. No data via pc will also be a no go for AA since the data of the screen etc also seems to go through the USB interface.
A thing you could try, try to put the phone into fastboot. Normally you will need other drivers .... but I'm afraid it will be the port itself which is broken or not communicating like it should.
Does it even fast charge? Normally a charger negotiates via the data lines what the output will be (referring to QC modes etc)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trying in Fastboot is a good idea but I think you're right when you're saying it's the port iself.
I fixed this Mi 6 myself, since the USB port was broken, I opened it, replaced USB port and battery and glued it back.
The phone recharges itself correctly and fast but I rarely connect it to my PC so the new USB connector has probably had this malfunction since I installed it, but I never noticed before.
lukesan said:
Seems you are techie enough to get a charge doctor / usb tester on like aliexpress for a couple of euro which will show more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't knew these things even existed! :laugh:
Anyway, I think I'll quit testing and I'll buy a new phone, since I don't have time and will to fix this Xiaomi Mi 6 another time.
I'll probably buy a Xiaomi Mi 9T or a Xiaomi Mi 9T Pro.
Just to track everything, before finding out the hardware problem, I did some other useless tests:
I've enabled Debug USB under Developers Options;
I've uninstalled and reinstalled AA a couple of times, also deleting all its data;
I've tried with another third USB C cable;
I've uninstalled Car Home Ultra I was keeping on my phone as a backup for AA;
I've uninstalled Battery Widget 2019 Pro, just to understand if he was messing with USB connection.
Thanks lukesan for helping me with tests and pointing me in the right direction.
I'll come back here and let you know how this ends, when I'll have a new phone

You're welcome. And if the new phone also doesn't work swap the car too. . I personally would go for the Xiaomi Mi 9T Pro but that is me.
As per my advice buy one of those USB measure things. I highly recommend this RD UM34 or the C version. For 14 euro It has saved me a lot to take the guessing out of most things. I just had someone wanting to throw out her tablet since it doesn't charge anymore. 4 years old. It's just a cable issue, the battery and charger are fine.
Want to measure the capacity of the battery. No worries. let it charge from 0 to 100% and check how many mWh went into it. You can also check the QC rates and voltages on the D+ and D- lines or how good or bad cables are.

lukesan said:
You're welcome. And if the new phone also doesn't work swap the car too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would be a mess explain to the bank why I don't want anymore that loan I've already signed
"You know, my car doesn't work with AA, so here's you thousands euros back" :laugh:
lukesan said:
I personally would go for the Xiaomi Mi 9T Pro but that is me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's also my favourite so far, for the better and faster CPU, but I don't want to pay 100 euros more than the Mi 9T only for that.
I'll keep an eye at discounts on GearBest and Banggood.
lukesan said:
As per my advice buy one of those USB measure things. I highly recommend this RD UM34 or the C version. For 14 euro It has saved me a lot to take the guessing out of most things. I just had someone wanting to throw out her tablet since it doesn't charge anymore. 4 years old. It's just a cable issue, the battery and charger are fine.
Want to measure the capacity of the battery. No worries. let it charge from 0 to 100% and check how many mWh went into it. You can also check the QC rates and voltages on the D+ and D- lines or how good or bad cables are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's cool stuff!
I'll definitively buy one in my next AliExpress or GearBest order, maybe when I'll buy the phone

Hi @lukesan, hi all,
here I am again. I can confirm it was an hardware issue. The USB connector in my Xiaomi Mi 6 was faulty.
I've eventually bought a new Xiaomi Mi 9T (regular, not Pro) and it's working fine.
It has been immediately detected the first time I connected it, without any particular configuration and with the same cable I was using before.
I'm just having a minor, but annoying, issue: Android Auto randomly disconnects itself during the drive.
Sometimes it doesn't disconnect at all, more often it disconnects one or two times in a 30 minutes ride and seldom it disconnects every 5 minutes.
I've already uninstalled and re-installed Android Auto on my phone, I've given all possible permissions to it, including Auto Start, and I've disable MIUI battery optimization.
I'm using Android Auto 4.9.594934 on MIUI Global 11.0.3.
Any ideas on this issue?
I'm using a brand new short cable (10 cm) from MYLBOO (USB Type C Cable 5A,USB C Cable 5A,MYLBOO High Speed Charging & Data Transfer USB 3.0 Type C Charging Cable for Samsung Galaxy S9 S8 Note 8, LG, Huawei，Sony,and others USB Type-C supported devi (0.1m) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZZW155/) but since today I'm trying with the original Xiaomi recharge cable, which is uncomfortable because it's too long and doesn't fit the phone box of my car.
I've already done some researches and I see people is solving similar issues with Anker Powerline+ cables (like this Anker Powerline+ USB C to USB A Fast Charging Cable, for Samsung Galaxy Note 8 / S8 / S8+ / S9 /S10, Sony XZ, LG V20 / G5 / G6, Xiaomi 5 and More (3ft) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G5WSK2), so in case I'll try one of those, but they're also too long for my car.
They're talking about that in this thread: https://support.google.com/androidauto/thread/13722361
I've also found this Android Auto FAQ which could be useful for anyone who's reading: [FAQ] Can’t connect or stay connected - How to diagnose/address the issue - https://support.google.com/androidauto/thread/2467281
I'll try to come back here to write how this ends, too.
Thank you again for your help, lukesan!

No worries man, glad you finally have AA in the car. Sure that Mi9 T is more than fast enough!
I had the same issues and it is both annoying as it is dangerous. Probably it's the cable. (lol check the reviews on your link)
I have some sh*t cables that (seemingly, you guess what I recommended to measure the current) that charge ok but still slower than other good cables and disconnect randomly in the car. Coincidentally the 2 cables that I know for a fact that I have issues with are braided cables (you know the ones with the cloth around them). They were cheap and there is no brand name on them.
The cables I now use everywhere are from Orico or Ugreen which you can buy for really cheap on Aliexpress (but have to wait for a couple of weeks, hint: check shipping options and for 1 or 2 euro more take the registered or alie standard one). I always buy spare cables in all length variations and I tend to have spares at my work and in the car.
I even have a 3 meter long cable which still charges full speed and is ideal when I travel and stay in hotels. Check the reviews and variation of cables. (saw a 25cm Ugreen one while doing a quick look)
That Anker is also a very good brand but unfortunately for you a bit on the long side for use in the car. Btw : Their chargers are also very good

Hi @lukesan, hi mate,
I've ended up buying a short UGreen 90 degrees cable, as you suggested, and it's working great!
It's this one, 50 cm (1.5 ft): UGREEN USB C Right Angle Cable 90 Degree Type C Fast Charger Compatible for Samsung Galaxy S10 S10E S9 S8 Plus Note 9 8, LG G8 G7 V20 V40 V30 G6 G5, Nintendo Switch, GoPro Hero 7 8 5 6 (1.5ft) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFHB3R4/
The only issue is that the 90 degree angle is in the wrong direction and the cable gets pressed against the border of my phone box, so I don't think it will last as long as it would have (but that's my usual luck):
I'll probably buy a couple of spares of the same cable.
A friend of mine also suggested me this cheap cable he's using on his Kia Stonic: 4A Reload 25CM USB 3.1 Type-C Quick Sync Cable for Game OnePlus 6T / 5T - Red 25cm - https://it.gearbest.com/chargers-ca...=1433363&_branch_match_id=743761025176719207#
I'll probably buy a couple of them too, since they can be oriented in both directions.
So, I think I've solved all my AA issues!
Thank you very much again for your help!

Lets get started on the Lenovo Smart Clock 2!

New user, here. Long time listener, first time caller. Walmart is selling the Lenovo "Smart Clock 2", in my area, for $24.88 this holiday season. It's bundled with a Lenovo "Smart Bulb Medium", which made it all the more tempting. Of course I didn't resist.
The Smart Clock 2 runs on a Mediatek MT8176 SoC, unlike the previous "Smart Clock", which ran on an Amlogic A113X SoC. Based on the specs I'm seeing, the Bluetooth and WiFi modules have both been downgraded. From BT 5.0 to BT 4.2, and from 801.11AC to 801.11B/G/N, respectively. Hey, you've got to cut costs somewhere if you want to sell it for under $25! I suspect there are more cost-saving "features", but I haven't figured out how to go any deeper in the casing without destroying the innards of the device. Not yet, at least.
Now, I know the bootloader for the original "Smart Clock" was successfully unlocked, and I'm curious what we can do with this device. Lenovo have removed the USB port from the "Smart Clock 2", replacing it with pogo pin pads on the bottom of the unit, which interface with a dock (not included in the bundle, of course). The dock does have a USB A port, but I don't have the dock. We'll have to do this the old fashioned way. Whatever that is. Any tips for non-destructively interfacing with those pads would be welcomed! I'm thinking some blu-tack and a female USB-A pigtail? I suppose I could buy some pogo pins and wire them up to protoboard, but I'm not sure I want to make that investment (in time or money). I suppose I could also just buy the dock, but I'm not nearly that invested, and also they don't seem to sell it without the "Smart Clock 2" itself. Not exactly surprising.
Lenovo have kindly labeled the pads on the PCB inside the unit. Initial disassembly isn't too hard. Remove the rubber gasket from the bottom of the device (it's just held on with some relatively weak adhesive), unscrew the four screws underneath, and gently pry the plastic base-plate up from the front edge (the side facing the screen). Underneath we find a small PCB that looks like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The switch just turns the microphone on and off, so don't get too excited, like I did, at first. DP, DM, GND, and VBUS should get us a USB connection, though, if I'm not mistaken.
Holding the Volume Up button while powering the unit brings us, eventually, to the expected:
Holding volume down on power-up boots us into "safe mode".
I'd very much like to get this device to do something more than just "be a clock", or "stream audio". Especially considering that system specs like this thing has would've made me lose my mind back when I was 12. Granted, I only had a 386 then. I'd absolutely love to figure out how to get this thing to run Octo4a (Android OctoPrint server for driving a 3D Printer). It's more than capable of it, but I suspect I'm chasing a dream. At least I can repurpose the screen and digitizer, if all else fails.
Information online seems scant, for this device, at this time, but I'm willing to experiment. I'm not the most knowledgeable person, but I have a dusty 20 year old degree in electronic engineering, if that helps? I somehow doubt it.
So, where do I go from here? Figure out how to connect it and then "fastboot flashing unlock" as with the previous "Smart Clock" from Lenovo? All suggestions welcome! Thanks!

Maybe serial/uart can communicate to a pc for configuration?

I know this is an older thread but I wanted to point out that by following this guide you can install basically any apk on the clock. From that point you can install a launcher and open the real settings app as opposed to the default one. I was able to connect a bluetooth keyboard and also enable developer options the normal way, where an "OEM Unlocking" toggle is present. I was also able to confirm that the charging dock is connected over usb as it shows up under connected devices in settings, however the type-A port on the back doesn't seem to carry data. I tried both a wired keyboard and usb flash drive and neither seemed to work. Hope this info helps!

ScanuRag said:
I know this is an older thread but I wanted to point out that by following this guide you can install basically any apk on the clock. From that point you can install a launcher and open the real settings app as opposed to the default one. I was able to connect a bluetooth keyboard and also enable developer options the normal way, where an "OEM Unlocking" toggle is present. I was also able to confirm that the charging dock is connected over usb as it shows up under connected devices in settings, however the type-A port on the back doesn't seem to carry data. I tried both a wired keyboard and usb flash drive and neither seemed to work. Hope this info helps!View attachment 5679439View attachment 5679453
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I have been trying to follow that guide, and it says to enable the screen-reader in the accessibility settings in the google home app, but that setting isnt anywhere to be found in the google home app (on iOS). How did you do it? Thanks

Hmm... I'm on Android so the interface may be different for me. On my phone the toggle was located in Settings > Accessibility Settings > Screen reader.

So I 3D printed a small piece that lets me more easily hold some breadboard cables onto the pads. Do you think it's safe to connect the d+ and d- cables to a USB port and plug it into my computer.

ScanuRag said:
I know this is an older thread but I wanted to point out that by following this guide you can install basically any apk on the clock. From that point you can install a launcher and open the real settings app as opposed to the default one. I was able to connect a bluetooth keyboard and also enable developer options the normal way, where an "OEM Unlocking" toggle is present. I was also able to confirm that the charging dock is connected over usb as it shows up under connected devices in settings, however the type-A port on the back doesn't seem to carry data. I tried both a wired keyboard and usb flash drive and neither seemed to work. Hope this info helps!View attachment 5679439View attachment 5679453
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that you have developer options enabled, can you enable ADB over wifi ?

The guide worked fine, thank you @ScanuRag for pointing me to it. It's a bit trial and error to get the gestures right and the browser is quite painful to use with talkback on, but I managed to install a launcher and access settings, enable developer options and ADB. Next step would be to get a USB connection somehow.
ScanuRag said:
So I 3D printed a small piece that lets me more easily hold some breadboard cables onto the pads. Do you think it's safe to connect the d+ and d- cables to a USB port and plug it into my computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So did you try it yet?
nicklas2k said:
Now that you have developer options enabled, can you enable ADB over wifi ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, there is no menu option for ADB over wifi.

Unfortunately, it didn't provide a stable connection. It looks like I'll be ordering some pogo pins in the future.

ScanuRag said:
Unfortunately, it didn't provide a stable connection. It looks like I'll be ordering some pogo pins in the future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But that means you got a connection after all, right?

I was just testing to see if the 12v out would power an Arduino (it did, but very sporadically)

I finally got around to disassembling the wireless charging dock and found some exciting things. Most importantly, there appear to be contacts for a MicroUSB port. I'll have to get one of my friends who's better at soldering than I am to solder one on. I wouldn't be surprised if it gives USB access to the clock because Lenovo had to debug these things somehow.

Just dropping a line here and keeping this dev work alive, getting this thing at least with an unlocked bootloader and something stable (not relaying on lenovo or google) is a huge win. I turned of OEM updates do hopefully that works for now.

Hppy to see your work guys !
On my side I have directly solder usb connector on it:
Now if you plug it to the computer, the device is show as LenovoCD-24502F
I'm now able to see preloader boot :
If you start the device with vol- pressed we can see something like an UART Dec 6 15:08:20 AREA51 systemd[1]: systemd-oomd.service: Got notification message from PID 6014 (WATCHDOG=1) Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.094549] usb 1-10.1: new high-speed USB device number 72 using xhci_hcd Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.195180] usb 1-10.1: New USB device found, idVendor=0e8d, idProduct=2000, bcdDevice= 1.00 Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.195190] usb 1-10.1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0 Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.195194] usb 1-10.1: Product: MT65xx Preloader Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.195197] usb 1-10.1: Manufacturer: MediaTek Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.218855] cdc_acm 1-10.1:1.0: Zero length descriptor references Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.218867] cdc_acm: probe of 1-10.1:1.0 failed with error -22 Dec 6 15:08:37 AREA51 kernel: [1299860.299163] cdc_acm 1-10.1:1.1: ttyACM1: USB ACM device
[15:27]
+++++ but the UART is removed once the device is started (modifié)
[15:28]
++++ Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-serial-by\x2dpath-pci\x2d0000:00:14.0\x2dusb\x2d0:10.1:1.1.device: Changed plugged -> dead Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-serial-by\x2did-usb\x2dMediaTek_MT65xx_Preloader\x2dif01.device: Changed plugged -> dead Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-ttyACM1.device: Changed plugged -> dead Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: sys-devices-pci0000:00-0000:00:14.0-usb1-1\x2d10-1\x2d10.1-1\x2d10.1:1.1-tty-ttyACM1.device: Changed plugged -> dead Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: sys-devices-pci0000:00-0000:00:14.0-usb1-1\x2d10-1\x2d10.1-1\x2d10.1:1.1-tty-ttyACM1.device: Collecting. Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-ttyACM1.device: Collecting. Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-serial-by\x2did-usb\x2dMediaTek_MT65xx_Preloader\x2dif01.device: Collecting. Dec 6 15:08:39 AREA51 systemd[1]: dev-serial-by\x2dpath-pci\x2d0000:00:14.0\x2dusb\x2d0:10.1:1.1.device: Collecting.
[15:29]
===============================================================
But the uart is gone after the boot
Any news on your side ?

I also managed to wire up the pins on the small board to a USB connection and I could adb into the device after enabling usb debugging. There is an OEM unlock option, not sure what I can do afterwards though, have to read about how that all works first before I destroy anything.

After a bit of trying, I managed to unlock the device. After enabling OEM unlock in the system settings, I did 'adb reboot bootloader' but the screen turned off and I didn't know what was happening. It seemed to be in fastboot mode as it was giving me 'remote: unknown command' after trying 'fastboot oem device-info'. I then tried 'fastboot flashing unlock' which got stuck.
Next I tried rebooting with holding the volume up key and selected fastboot after that. This was fine and it also showed the warning for the unlock but the volume up key wouldn't do anything, I waited a couple of minutes and retried this several times with the same result, which is interesting because I could chose fastboot in the bootloader menu without any issues.
As I knew what was happening in fastboot, I rebooted the device normally and while the boot screen was still visible, I used adb to reboot into the bootloader. Interestingly, the screen stayed on this time and unlocking worked like a charm. Device was reset and now the unlocked warning is shown when booting.
Edit: Does anyone know where to get the firmware files for this thing? Before I continue flashing anything, I'd really like to have a backup at hand that I can use to restore the device in case something goes wrong. I found guides how to backup mtk firmware with wwr_mtk + sp flash tool (on a site called hovatek, is this legit?) - but they are made for phones and I'm not sure if they do work for the clock as there is no battery.

Good news ! The firmware looks available for the first version https://smartsupport.lenovo.com/us/...er-list/component?name=Software and Utilities
As both use the same Soc and RAM/eMMC can we use the same ? I'm not self confident enought with Android and security...

You can find the open source code for this one on their portal as well, have a look here https://support.lenovo.com/de/de/solutions/ht511330-lenovo-open-source-portal
I'd be interested in OFW images that I can flash via fastboot in case I break something. I found other threads in here from @deadman96385 - maybe they can tell us where to get the s3 links for this device?

I've been following this for a bit, so if you guys have the software unlocked and are able to flash the Gen 1 software, aren't we golden? Because from there I remember many people have hacked the first generation. I might be jumping the gun, I'm not too great at this stuff but I can follow most of what you are all saying so far. Can't we just do that?

ScanuRag said:
I finally got around to disassembling the wireless charging dock and found some exciting things. Most importantly, there appear to be contacts for a MicroUSB port. I'll have to get one of my friends who's better at soldering than I am to solder one on. I wouldn't be surprised if it gives USB access to the clock because Lenovo had to debug these things somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a multimeter testing for continuity between the VBUS, DM, and DP. I tested all of the pads for the microusb location for all three of those and no continuity.
Leads me to believe that if you soldered a micro-usb port on there, it wouldn't give access. But you are right! How the heck did they debug this bad boy? And why would the microusb be there? My best guess is that they had some sort in house made Pin connector, like the dock, but real simple so they could connect to a PC.
Which leads me to thinking I can solder the VBUS, DM, DP, and GND pins on the PCB to the existing USB A connector. I would disconnect the port first and lose the charging functionality through the port but hopefully gain simple access to the clock. Although I like what @Nini00 did with adding the port to his clock.
Getting into that stupid dock was such a pain. They obviously didn't want people in there lol.