won't power up after 2 year sleep - One (M7) Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I used it as back up phone perhaps 2 yrs ago. Charged before I placed it at rest.
Can't get it to power up. Tried holding power only, 3 mins; power & Vol Up 3 mins; power & Vol down 3mins; power & both up/down 3mins all connected to wall power with HTC cable.
Any other ideas?

metropical said:
I used it as back up phone perhaps 2 yrs ago. Charged before I placed it at rest.
Can't get it to power up. Tried holding power only, 3 mins; power & Vol Up 3 mins; power & Vol down 3mins; power & both up/down 3mins all connected to wall power with HTC cable.
Any other ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replace battery. The battery's voltage dropped below its onboard controller's critical limit and it permanently disabled it.

blackhawk said:
Replace battery. The battery's voltage dropped below its onboard controller's critical limit and it permanently disabled it.
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Click to collapse
bummer. that's a surgery I don't think I want to attempt.

metropical said:
bummer. that's a surgery I don't think I want to attempt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With the right tools and skillset it's not that hard for most phones. My N10+ is rated difficult but once I saw it done I realized it was well within my capabilities to do.
Or simply have a local shop do it for you.

I just did my HTC U11, but that wasn't too bad. I'll have to watch some vids again.
Favorite phone design ever. Built like proverbial brick ... house.
I'd bet it'd be pretty slow now. But a good back up.

Just be careful not to use any solvents including isopropyl alcohol as even a small amount can poison the LCD. These displays are vented on the sides and not sealed.

never use solvents. just them creakers and the like.

metropical said:
never use solvents. just them creakers and the like.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah on the N10+ anhydrous isopropyl alcohol makes it a lot easier, especially the battery.
A heat tray or gun is the first step to help remove the N10+ rear cover which is glass. It's fun...
Get a new seal for the rear cover too. Take your time, no rush, easy does it.

I assume the get in is from the front, IE the display side, not the back?

metropical said:
I assume the get in is from the front, IE the display side, not the back?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know. On Samsung's it the rear cover.

Related

[A] Power/resetting problems - should I return my "new" phone?

Post-end edit and TL;DR for others having the sort of problems I was:
The power button will, if held in (or stuck engaged) for 10 seconds, reset the phone. Unconditionally. If your phone starts randomly resetting after the power button is pressed (or after you press it, the shutdown menu appears, then the phone resets), your power button is sticky and needs to be replaced. Save yourself some frustration and stop using the button to sleep/wake your phone. Pop the keyboard slider open half an inch to wake it up, use a widget or one of CM and SlimKat's many shortcuts to put it to sleep. Unless you're still on stock JB, in which case quit being on stock JB you square you're probably limited to widgets.
---
Bought a D4 off ebay. According to the seller, there's nothing wrong with it, aside from "the power button occasionally does not work".
And until this afternoon, not even that. The phone was working flawlessly. So, I sat down and flashed it so I could transfer my PagePlus account over, which also seemed to be successful; 1x and 3g signals, nice and strong. And even after that, it was fine for a bit.
Then, I go to put the phone to sleep...and it wouldn't. The power switch problem that the seller described rearing its ugly head, seemingly. So I kept trying, and every few button presses, the shutdown menu came up, rather than the device sleeping. Seemed like a sticky button, easy enough to fix.
And then...the phone reset itself. And now, when it's woken with the button, there's a decent chance that it resets itself within 10 seconds of leaving the lock screen; assuming it even wakes up with the button, which seems to be rather hit-and-miss. Putting the phone to sleep with the button is equally fidgety, but doesn't seem to be able to reset it.
I'd already planned on replacing the button, if necessary; I'm not at all afraid of opening the phone up. What concerns me is the self-resetting, which as I understand the Droid 4 is only supposed to do if the power button and volume- buttons are held; I haven't so much as touched the volume buttons since this started.
Should I send it back for a refund, or is the self-reset behavior a symptom of a stuck/failing power button, and likely to go away if I open it up and replace it?
My power button did same thing a year ago.
The power button is two parts external and internal
I took it apart and pulled the external part off, it just pulls straight off.
Now need a pen or something to press button, but normally use a widget to turn screen off and use an volume button app to turn screen on
There are replacement power buttons on eBay but never got around to it.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
sd_shadow said:
My power button did same thing a year ago.
The power button is two parts external and internal
I took it apart and pulled the external part off, it just pulls straight off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So wait. Despite how loose/flimsy it feels, it's actually the external plastic bit getting stuck/hung up? I figured it was the actual button being gunked up (poor-quality grease or somesuch) and sticking.
And, is the phone supposed to reboot if only the power button is "held", then? That's what I'm primarily worried about; whether the power button is responsible for the reboots, or it started at the same time by coincidence and something else is actually wrong.
With mine the exterior part was sticking and causing reboots, yours may be different
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Hmm, seems to be different indeed. Out of curiosity, I very carefully slipped a screwdriver in above the plastic button to open a small gap, and clicked the actual hardware button with a small paperclip...nothing. Holding it long enough seems to eventually make contact and put the phone to sleep, clicking it repeatedly sometimes causes the shutdown menu to come up (and shortly thereafter a reboot)...
Very strange behavior. Think I have some electrical contact cleaner around here somewhere, maybe I can squirt some of that down into the button...failing that, I guess I can live with it, hoping it's just the button itself and not something wonky with the board logic, and eventually change the button for something a bit higher quality...
Septfox said:
Hmm, seems to be different indeed. Out of curiosity, I very carefully slipped a screwdriver in above the plastic button to open a small gap, and clicked the actual hardware button with a small paperclip...nothing. Holding it long enough seems to eventually make contact and put the phone to sleep, clicking it repeatedly sometimes causes the shutdown menu to come up (and shortly thereafter a reboot)...
Very strange behavior. Think I have some electrical contact cleaner around here somewhere, maybe I can squirt some of that down into the button...failing that, I guess I can live with it, hoping it's just the button itself and not something wonky with the board logic, and eventually change the button for something a bit higher quality...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This happened to my old SE XPERIA X2, the switch wore off. In this case I got the switch replaced under warranty claim.
Generally all the faulty micro switches I opened had somehow faulty flat spring inside. If it is the case, it won't click soundly when pressed. Then you need to replace the whole switch (or the spring if you can find the same), no cleaning can help.
I can't imagine any valid SW situation leading to reboot because of pressing only the power switch - unless you installed some utility to do it, which I doubt. Maybe the Vol Down button is faulty/sticky too?
I'd try to clean the insides first (if the cleaner gets inside the switches, even better), and if that doesn't help, get inside and check these two switches yourself. You can't get a refund then though
LuH said:
Generally all the faulty micro switches I opened had somehow faulty flat spring inside. If it is the case, it won't click soundly when pressed. Then you need to replace the whole switch (or the spring if you can find the same), no cleaning can help.
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Click to collapse
Mine makes a clicking sound and seems to return after being pressed. However, comparing it to the volume buttons (which look to be the same switch going by the teardown pictures I've seen), it does sound and feel slightly less "crisp".
LuH said:
I can't imagine any valid SW situation leading to reboot because of pressing only the power switch - unless you installed some utility to do it, which I doubt. Maybe the Vol Down button is faulty/sticky too?
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Click to collapse
Yea, completely stock, since I was flashing the phone over to PP before doing anything else.
I was kind of hoping someone on stock or modified stock would come in and test it for me; hold the button down for a good 10-20 seconds, see what happens. It's not supposed to happen, but I've read elsewhere online that it's one of the symptoms of a sticky button.
Curiously, the Volume- key seems to be working perfectly, sounds and feels like I would expect.
LuH said:
I'd try to clean the insides first (if the cleaner gets inside the switches, even better), and if that doesn't help, get inside and check these two switches yourself. You can't get a refund then though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have some "QR Electrical Cleaner" here that I obtained from Walmart a while back...unfortunately someone lost the nozzle, so I can't get a concentrated blast down around the switch stem :\
Wedging the plastic external button aside and spraying it in the general direction of the top of the switch doesn't seem to have done anything, unfortunately. I think these switches are probably semi-sealed unless in the pressed position, which is going to make things interesting...
And yes, you're right, doing anything further would technically void the warranty. Thinking about it, though, I actually did get a pretty good deal; the phone is obviously a return from a customer who found the problem early on, as it's basically new in condition with a completely unscratched screen. Even if I can't get the button working right, the phone wakes up with the keyboard, and a notification widget puts it to sleep...and if the button isn't used to wake it, it doesn't seem to stick (or at least register as it), so the phone continues working properly. So, a mostly-perfect phone, for all of $27.50, with the potential to be perfect.
Once my screen protector gets here and I'm not afraid of scratching the glass up, I think I'll open it and see what I can find out. It should be easy enough to short the contacts at the rear of the switch and see that the board is working properly; if so, then I can go hunting for a compatible switch. I can't seem to find any direct replacements, unfortunately.
Which reminds me, any guesses as to why there are three poles on the switch rather than two?
Edit: nevermind, looking at pictures it seems that the two "outer" pins attach to the common pad on the board, while the center pin is attached to the appropriate circuitry.
Septfox said:
Mine makes a clicking sound and seems to return after being pressed. However, comparing it to the volume buttons (which look to be the same switch going by the teardown pictures I've seen), it does sound and feel slightly less "crisp".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a swan's song...
Septfox said:
Yea, completely stock, since I was flashing the phone over to PP before doing anything else.
I was kind of hoping someone on stock or modified stock would come in and test it for me; hold the button down for a good 10-20 seconds, see what happens. It's not supposed to happen, but I've read elsewhere online that it's one of the symptoms of a sticky button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckily I just fastbooted mine Completely stock 188, only rooted and with SS installed - which should make no difference. To my complete surprise, while holding the power down, it shows the Power menu after 2 secs and forcibly reboots after 10 seconds. So I guess your only problem is the power button :good:
Septfox said:
And yes, you're right, doing anything further would technically void the warranty. Thinking about it, though, I actually did get a pretty good deal; the phone is obviously a return from a customer who found the problem early on, as it's basically new in condition with a completely unscratched screen. Even if I can't get the button working right, the phone wakes up with the keyboard, and a notification widget puts it to sleep...and if the button isn't used to wake it, it doesn't seem to stick (or at least register as it), so the phone continues working properly. So, a mostly-perfect phone, for all of $27.50, with the potential to be perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great catch If you find another, let me know
Septfox said:
Once my screen protector gets here and I'm not afraid of scratching the glass up, I think I'll open it and see what I can find out. It should be easy enough to short the contacts at the rear of the switch and see that the board is working properly; if so, then I can go hunting for a compatible switch. I can't seem to find any direct replacements, unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually bought one two years ago while buying mine D4 to have the whole package stuffed with all imaginable replacement parts sent from the US - postage to Europe was about 1/3 of the whole price. I never used any of the replacement parts yet, guess I got lucky I don't have it on me now though...
Septfox said:
Which reminds me, any guesses as to why there are three poles on the switch rather than two?
Edit: nevermind, looking at pictures it seems that the two "outer" pins attach to the common pad on the board, while the center pin is attached to the appropriate circuitry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My guess is in some other devices the switch may switch between two circuits, not just break/connect the circuit. I think most of the switches I saw had the unnecessary third leg. Also it may help it hold tighter to the PCB.
LuH said:
Luckily I just fastbooted mine Completely stock 188, only rooted and with SS installed - which should make no difference. To my complete surprise, while holding the power down, it shows the Power menu after 2 secs and forcibly reboots after 10 seconds. So I guess your only problem is the power button :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, thank you! Now I don't have to strip it down until I have a new switch in hand...though I'm still tempted to, just for fun. Strange that the phone can be rebooted by only holding the power button, though.
LuH said:
Great catch If you find another, let me know
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly. FYI, the seller I got it it from is named "soonersoft" if you want to use ebay's Follow Seller thing, by the looks of their listings they seem to mainly do business in items returned under warranty for damage/defects.
LuH said:
I actually bought one two years ago while buying mine D4 to have the whole package stuffed with all imaginable replacement parts sent from the US - postage to Europe was about 1/3 of the whole price. I never used any of the replacement parts yet, guess I got lucky I don't have it on me now though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been thinking about it, and even if I could find a 1:1 replacement, it might be better to just replace it with an entirely different, more common switch. Having looked it up, power switch failures aren't incredibly frequent, but they are enough that I would rather have a more reliable (or at least, cheaper to replace), more standard design. Ebay is full of cheap bulk lots of microswitches, just gotta find one small enough.
LuH said:
My guess is in some other devices the switch may switch between two circuits, not just break/connect the circuit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, maybe. I just had the thought that it might alternatively be a dual-stage switch (e.g. as are used for cameras), with one of the stages disabled or defective to the extent that it could only be sold as a single-stage switch. Such would be a good way to get rid of components that would otherwise be garbage.
Whichever it is, it seems to me that such a small switch with so many moving parts inside, in a location and with a role that it sees a lot of use and abuse, is just asking for trouble...that the problem isn't more widespread is a testament to the quality of the switch manufacturer's design and assembly, I guess.
Regardless, it looks like only a dual-pole switch is actually needed, so that considerably widens the range of possibilities.
Thanks for the assistance, it has been invaluable. Now I can continue loading up and enjoying my phone without worrying that it's going to suddenly drop dead...well, more than the usual worrying, anyway
Septfox said:
Awesome, thank you! Now I don't have to strip it down until I have a new switch in hand...though I'm still tempted to, just for fun. Strange that the phone can be rebooted by only holding the power button, though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know your feelings, even though I waited for a first issue to rationalize opening it up, which was only this summer, after almost two years. I'm still a student and the phone was ****load of money for me. Now that they are so cheap (and I don't see any potential replacement on the market as QWERTY devices vaporized) I'm not that cautious.
BTW most breakdown instructions or videos specify you'll only need T5 screwdriver but if you want to disassemble the display part as well, which you will need to, you'll need T3 as well (T4 still kinda fits to the screws, but it's T3). When you slide the diplay (or keyboard, depending on your point of view) out, you can see the small screws next to the outer rim.
Also, the phone heavily relies on adhesive - be sure to have plenty and be aware that after first opening the see-through plastic piece with rear camera, flash LED, hole for opening the back door and with two screws underneath will never look the same, you'll be lucky to have it somehow stick with most parts looking OK. I never saw anywhere replacement for this printed adhesive, the "HD 720p" sign gets semi-destroyed when opening it...
Septfox said:
Certainly. FYI, the seller I got it it from is named "soonersoft" if you want to use ebay's Follow Seller thing, by the looks of their listings they seem to mainly do business in items returned under warranty for damage/defects.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Septfox said:
I've been thinking about it, and even if I could find a 1:1 replacement, it might be better to just replace it with an entirely different, more common switch. Having looked it up, power switch failures aren't incredibly frequent, but they are enough that I would rather have a more reliable (or at least, cheaper to replace), more standard design. Ebay is full of cheap bulk lots of microswitches, just gotta find one small enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or you can do it the hardcore and noticeable way I used to fix out old home LCD monitor's faulty power switch - solder wires to the PCB, take it out the hole left after the switch plastic and solder to them a switch of your choosing that will hang outside the phone... You can tell people that it's an antenna that helps with bad reception in your area
Septfox said:
Yea, maybe. I just had the thought that it might alternatively be a dual-stage switch (e.g. as are used for cameras), with one of the stages disabled or defective to the extent that it could only be sold as a single-stage switch. Such would be a good way to get rid of components that would otherwise be garbage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not likely IMO. This was marketed as luxurious device, I don't think they'd do it. Also the new switch isn't as expensive I guess, especially compared to all the advanced electronics inside.
Septfox said:
Whichever it is, it seems to me that such a small switch with so many moving parts inside, in a location and with a role that it sees a lot of use and abuse, is just asking for trouble...that the problem isn't more widespread is a testament to the quality of the switch manufacturer's design and assembly, I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, I never understood how microswitches, especially those used in mouses, could take so much...
Septfox said:
Regardless, it looks like only a dual-pole switch is actually needed, so that considerably widens the range of possibilities.
Thanks for the assistance, it has been invaluable. Now I can continue loading up and enjoying my phone without worrying that it's going to suddenly drop dead...well, more than the usual worrying, anyway
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad I helped Enjoy your "brand new" slider
LuH said:
BTW most breakdown instructions or videos specify you'll only need T5 screwdriver but if you want to disassemble the display part as well, which you will need to, you'll need T3 as well (T4 still kinda fits to the screws, but it's T3).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know. As it turns out, I don't have anything below a T6 or 7, so no adventures in disassembly for me today.
LuH said:
Also, the phone heavily relies on adhesive - be sure to have plenty and be aware that after first opening the see-through plastic piece with rear camera, flash LED, hole for opening the back door and with two screws underneath will never look the same, you'll be lucky to have it somehow stick with most parts looking OK. I never saw anywhere replacement for this printed adhesive, the "HD 720p" sign gets semi-destroyed when opening it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fond memories of stripping my Ally down to the digitizer come back to me; everything simply snaps or bolts together and there's nary a drop of glue to be seen :<
I wonder if I can eyeball pictures of a removed plastic bit and use a straightblade bit to simply "drill" through mine to the screws...will have to keep it in mind when I evenetually open it up.
Any suggestions on what kind of glue to get? All I have around are hot glue and Gorilla Glue, neither of which strike me as particularly appropriate for this sort of thing.
LuH said:
Or you can do it the hardcore and noticeable way I used to fix out old home LCD monitor's faulty power switch - solder wires to the PCB, take it out the hole left after the switch plastic and solder to them a switch of your choosing that will hang outside the phone... You can tell people that it's an antenna that helps with bad reception in your area
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sad thing is, I would have actually done this with my first flip-phone. Heck, my current computer is a collection of loosely-assembled parts kind of haphazardly spread out on a nearby endtable, so I can say I would definitely do this to a phone ; \
LuH said:
Not likely IMO. This was marketed as luxurious device, I don't think they'd do it.
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Click to collapse
Yes, a luxurious device with a Pentile TFT display, non-removable battery, entirely plastic casing and no dedicated camera button :v
There's no denying that it's a nice phone, but I see a lot of cut corners; what's another one that the majority of users will be fortunate enough to never notice?
Septfox said:
Fond memories of stripping my Ally down to the digitizer come back to me; everything simply snaps or bolts together and there's nary a drop of glue to be seen :<
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too hate this adhesive hell
Septfox said:
I wonder if I can eyeball pictures of a removed plastic bit and use a straightblade bit to simply "drill" through mine to the screws...will have to keep it in mind when I eventually open it up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking the same. Don't know what straightblade is, but I wouldn't recommend any blade - the plastic is pretty thick. My plan would be to really cautiously drill it by an actual power drill. There's a bit of space between screws and the plastic piece, so I think it's safe to drill.
Septfox said:
Any suggestions on what kind of glue to get? All I have around are hot glue and Gorilla Glue, neither of which strike me as particularly appropriate for this sort of thing.
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Click to collapse
Double-sided adhesive tape I bought cheap 3mm wide one off eBay, works like charm. Also I thought they say it's 3M as in 3 meters long, but actually got a 3M branded one, possibly 3 meters long
Septfox said:
The sad thing is, I would have actually done this with my first flip-phone. Heck, my current computer is a collection of loosely-assembled parts kind of haphazardly spread out on a nearby endtable, so I can say I would definitely do this to a phone ; \
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't see how it's a bad thing The phone would look badass
Septfox said:
Yes, a luxurious device with a Pentile TFT display, non-removable battery, entirely plastic casing and no dedicated camera button :v
There's no denying that it's a nice phone, but I see a lot of cut corners; what's another one that the majority of users will be fortunate enough to never notice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True...
LuH said:
I was thinking the same. Don't know what straightblade is, but I wouldn't recommend any blade - the plastic is pretty thick.
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Click to collapse
Sorry, what I was referring to was a flat-edge screwdriver bit, in the same style as one of these for example. A small, sharp one makes a surprisingly good boring tool once you get it started.
LuH said:
Double-sided adhesive tape I bought cheap 3mm wide one off eBay, works like charm. Also I thought they say it's 3M as in 3 meters long, but actually got a 3M branded one, possibly 3 meters long
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Click to collapse
Ah, double-sided tape. I probably would have gone for rubber cement or somesuch, but this is a much better idea...far less messy.
LuH said:
I don't see how it's a bad thing The phone would look badass
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Click to collapse
And cats everywhere would instantly be huge fans of it.
Septfox said:
Sorry, what I was referring to was a flat-edge screwdriver bit, in the same style as one of these for example. A small, sharp one makes a surprisingly good boring tool once you get it started.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's an interesting idea
Septfox said:
Ah, double-sided tape. I probably would have gone for rubber cement or somesuch, but this is a much better idea...far less messy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried it and turns out while it works great for the main body (the first frame that probably wouldn't even need it in the first place), the tape I bought is a disaster for the digitizer. Since there is a pressure contact for the ear speaker being pressed by the adhesive connection only, it gets pressed away all the time. I got to re-assemble it with new tape every like two or three weeks, which is unbearable. Any alternative idea? I don't think we have rubber cement here - tried to google it and it seems it's used only in the US. I don't want to use any solution that's too permanent though - the time may come when I shatter the glass and need to replace it.
Also the display screws may actually be T4 - it seems my T3 and T4 screwdrivers are a tad more thick than they are supposed to be, compared to my brother's bit more expensive set.
LuH said:
I tried it and turns out while it works great for the main body (the first frame that probably wouldn't even need it in the first place), the tape I bought is a disaster for the digitizer. Since there is a pressure contact for the ear speaker being pressed by the adhesive connection only, it gets pressed away all the time. I got to re-assemble it with new tape every like two or three weeks, which is unbearable. Any alternative idea? I don't think we have rubber cement here - tried to google it and it seems it's used only in the US. I don't want to use any solution that's too permanent though - the time may come when I shatter the glass and need to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm.
I haven't taken mine apart yet - waiting on soldering wick so I can replace the power button with minimal mess - and wasn't planning on stripping it down that far anyway, so all I have to look at is the teardown guide. It looks to me like you could:
Press in the screen glass at the top to where it's supposed to be (to align the speaker with the frame as best as possible)
Get some sort of thin material to fill in/bridge the gap between the sides of the speaker and the frame
Inject a small amount of superglue into the gaps between frame/material/speaker
Finding something to bridge the gaps shouldn't be too difficult, anything will work (the superglue will just soak and make it rock hard anyway), it's only there so there's not enough of a gap for the superglue to shrink and void as it dries.
Just don't use enough glue that it works its way down to the glass, or it'll be a pain to detach later.
Like so (blue: spacer/shim, red: glue):
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Alternatively, gluing the speaker directly to the board it interfaces with (using a small shim between them to make room for the contacts)...but the positioning might be trickier to get right.
'course, these both have the problem of being rather permanent...and while I haven't read that there are widespread problems with the ear speaker going out, it does seem to occasionally happen. I just don't really know of any adhesives that are both strong enough to hold without eventually coming apart, and weak enough to be somewhat easily removed if needed : \
LuH said:
Also the display screws may actually be T4 - it seems my T3 and T4 screwdrivers are a tad more thick than they are supposed to be, compared to my brother's bit more expensive set.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a cheap set off ebay that includes T3-T6, so I should be good to go for when I eventually get around to opening the whole thing up (it is certain to happen at some point, if for no other reason than curiosity). At the moment I'm just enjoying customizing SlimKat and playing with the phone; it's so much more able in every way than the old LG I came from, it's ridiculous. Curiosity can, in this case, wait a while~
Septfox said:
It looks to me like you could:
Press in the screen glass at the top to where it's supposed to be (to align the speaker with the frame as best as possible)
Get some sort of thin material to fill in/bridge the gap between the sides of the speaker and the frame
Inject a small amount of superglue into the gaps between frame/material/speaker
Finding something to bridge the gaps shouldn't be too difficult, anything will work (the superglue will just soak and make it rock hard anyway), it's only there so there's not enough of a gap for the superglue to shrink and void as it dries.
Just don't use enough glue that it works its way down to the glass, or it'll be a pain to detach later.
Like so (blue: spacer/shim, red: glue):
[picture shown in above post]
Alternatively, gluing the speaker directly to the board it interfaces with (using a small shim between them to make room for the contacts)...but the positioning might be trickier to get right.
'course, these both have the problem of being rather permanent...and while I haven't read that there are widespread problems with the ear speaker going out, it does seem to occasionally happen. I just don't really know of any adhesives that are both strong enough to hold without eventually coming apart, and weak enough to be somewhat easily removed if needed : \
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I think when I bought the phone in summer 2012 I was like "cool, the only known issue is not showing up in my unit", and almost two years later when earpiece problems started, I was like "****, it finally caught me"...
The idea of hard-fixing the earpiece is nice, I actually thought of it before. I'd love it to be fixed to the PCB, thinking of some non-sticky insulation to be put between the earpiece and the digitizer. It's holding really tight on the digitizer though. I'll see what I can do when I open it up next time - I fixed it this Saturday, so I think it should hold itself somehow at least till the weekend
I was thinking of soldering it to PCB, but was quite scared of messing it up. Super glue is interesting alternative idea But I'm a bit afraid that it will tear the PCB's top layer apart when being pushed away continuously by the pressure contacts. I'll probably first try gluing it to the frame as you indicated in the picture and see then Hope I'll get to send pictures here, although it's a hard thing to do with a phone (my only camera) taken apart...
LuH said:
The idea of hard-fixing the earpiece is nice, I actually thought of it before. I'd love it to be fixed to the PCB, thinking of some non-sticky insulation to be put between the earpiece and the digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Paper~
alternatively, thinner and clear, plastic/saran wrap. Stick it down in there, then simply tear the little bit out that covers the speaker hole (or probably easier and cleaner, take a craft knife to it).
LuH said:
I was thinking of soldering it to PCB, but was quite scared of messing it up. Super glue is interesting alternative idea But I'm a bit afraid that it will tear the PCB's top layer apart when being pushed away continuously by the pressure contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a good point, PCB pads aren't strong at all (found that out while pulling a replacement switch off another phone, which is why I'm waiting on wick; don't want to tear my traces up).
I'd like to propose a combination alternative, then
Get some of your double-sided tape, stick a small strip to where the speaker sits on the PCB, try not to get stuck to it
Find a pair of lengths of small-gauge wire, an inch apiece should be enough
On each side, solder one wire to the copper interface pads
Using a small pair of wire snips, snip off the sprung sections of the contacts on the earpiece speaker, leaving enough to solder to
Solder the other ends of the wires to the remainder of the contacts on the speaker
Carefully align the speaker with the PCB, and stick it to the double-sided tape
Finally, tuck the wires out of the way so they don't get pinched and severed when the front assembly is bolted back on
The double-sided tape should be under little to no strain, so it ought to be fine for this task. The digitizer won't be receiving spring pressure from the speaker anymore, so it should stay put. Everything should be oK.
The only potential problems I can think of are that the lack of a seal between digitizer and speaker might reduce the earpiece volume somewhat, and the extra sound movement in the top of the phone casing might have some interesting interactions with the second mic up top.
Of course, this is only if you decide to add something to insulate/destick the digitizer, which actually might not be necessary without the glass being sprung outwards all the time.
It's completely reversible regardless (just need a new speaker and clean up the solder and tape on the PCB), so...might be a better alternative than just straight gluing everything together.
So after all I came up with an alternative solution: since I succeeded on fastening the digitizer with two layers of adhesive tape so well it still holds together for over two months now, I just needed to make the contacts hold so I don't lose the earpiece sound when they don't. The contact for pressure pins is actually not on display's PCB, but on a T-shaped strip of metal, attached to the display, so I just bent the arms in and it works like charm since
Heh, two layers.
Glad to hear you got it worked out. Now I know what to do in the (hopefully unlikely) event that I ever have this issue.
For my end of things, my adventures in power button repair have unfortunately met a disappointing end; the power button completely quit working for normal functions shortly after my last post. The tools I ordered came in, I opened up the phone and tried shorting the leads on the button, to make sure it was indeed the button that was bad. Nothing, nada, no response. I then performed some exploratory surgery on the button (as I have a suitable replacement sitting here), and found it to be of a somewhat simple, rugged design (typical metal-dome design, center pops down to make contact, sides/pins 1 and 3 are common). No manufacturing faults evident.
Working theory is that somewhere in the circuit that it completes, there is a defect. A component that overheated each time the button was used until the point of complete failure, perhaps. Curiously, the button (or rather the pads, no more button at this point) can still be used in combination with Volume - to reset the device. It just...won't respond to normal short/longpresses. I'd imagine there's another trace that splits off before the defective component, leading to the Volume - button and creating a sort of hardware AND condition that triggers a reboot.
Don't know. Don't have the knowledge, nor the equipment, to really diagnose it properly, let alone affect repairs. Guess I'm stuck with popping the keyboard open to wake it until the glorious day that the Droid 5 comes around~

Water Damage Repair Help Nexus 6

Hello everyone
So a couple weeks ago I took a unexpected swim with my Nexus 6 in my pocket, and haven't gotten it to work since. When I got out I immediately took the phone out of my pocket and turned it off, only to have it boot back into fastboot a few seconds later, turn off, boot to fastboot, and turn of again. It did this several times till it just stayed off. I took it apart, dried it, and cleaned it in Isopropyl alcohol and tried to turn it on but got no response no matter what I did. :crying:
I would consider it fried except whenever I plug it into my charger, the charging icon comes up like normal and even does the battery filling up animation. I replaced the power/volume button strip inside the phone hoping that it was the only problem, but it still would't turn on. I haven't replaced the battery yet because the charging animation shows it's holding charge, but loosing 40ish% after a week and a half of sitting there.
So is there something else I can do, or is it fried? I'm probably going to get a new battery to see if that improves anything, but I honestly don't know what more to do. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them.
Thanks in advance!
It's fried. Best you can do is send to shop and see if they can salvage it.
Alright, I'll guess I'll have to do that. Thank you for your reply.
I would like to share photos of my phone and seee if anyone vcan help, my situation is kind of similar. I tried to charge after to days of silica drying and cleaning with IPA.
I thin the connection around the battery area isn't secure. Is there a glue that i could buy?
The only thing a shop may do, is give it a bath in a ultrasonic machine, and bake the board. Try a new battery, internal batteries never do well in WD.
oOflyeyesOo said:
The only thing a shop may do, is give it a bath in a ultrasonic machine, and bake the board. Try a new battery, internal batteries never do well in WD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How about sticking the charging coil to the new battery? What type of adhesive is needed?
uncle_buckman said:
How about sticking the charging coil to the new battery? What type of adhesive is needed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may still have enough adhesive left over on the coil to stick it to it. Otherwise it doesn't matter much, as long as its connected and not crazy loose, the frame will hold it in place.
oOflyeyesOo said:
You may still have enough adhesive left over on the coil to stick it to it. Otherwise it doesn't matter much, as long as its connected and not crazy loose, the frame will hold it in place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got it kind of working, but the sound is fuzzy and the screen is flickering a little.
I'm missing some screws, so I'll need to buy some new ones.
T3/M3 torx screws, 2mm/3mm height/diameter?

Need help removing power button from frame.

Long story short: broke my screen, replaced it, bought new frame as well (old one is a bit broken from the fall).
The problem is: I really can't think of any way to move the power button from the old frame to the new one, without breaking it.
Is there anyone that has done this before, and can maybe tell me how they did it?
Thanks,
Same problem here. Ordered a replacement combo of frame, lcd, glass but it didnt come with the power switch in the frame. I cant see a way to transfer the old power switch to the new frame. I guess ill have to carry a toothpick around to turn on my phone?
I looked at mine when I had it apart to replace the cracked screen and it looks like the little pegs on the back of the power button are flared on the ends to prevent the button from coming back out after it is pressed in to the holes of the frame. You would have to try and cut the frame around those pegs to remove the power button without damaging the flared ends. I think there are four little pegs and 2 of them are flared. Good luck if you try it.
Is there any updates on this issue as far as how to remove it? Also can anyone who got their replacement screen/frame combo confirm if that metal mesh earpiece cover comes with it? Thanks
I think the only good way to remove it is the way I described in my post before yours
I found this thread while trying to figure out how to remove my button. I took a chance and drove it out with a small punch. Not really 'drove' it out, but pushing pretty hard while making sure I kept it centered on the plastic pins. The point needs to be smaller than the hole the pins push into. After removing the button from the old frame I just gently pushed it in the new one using a small pair of needle nose pliers. I don't think it damaged the flared ends of the pins too bad as it's solidly in place. There's no real force trying to push it back out.
Since the frame is pretty much trashed, I used a very small pair of nibs to cut the frame up and remove the power button undamaged. Of course, that was with another, similar, repair job. I went with the cool look on my Turbo and bought the red power button period.
Einsteindks said:
Since the frame is pretty much trashed, I used a very small pair of nibs to cut the frame up and remove the power button undamaged. Of course, that was with another, similar, repair job. I went with the cool look on my Turbo and bought the red power button period.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here trashed mine pulling it out. I ended up ordering a power button from Ebay item 172224370774 ordered Feb 24 say it will be here March 14.
I am using old one still works with two out of three pins. I got a vinyl protector fits over phone so that's holding the button in phone.
This just happened to me. Customer will be here within the next hour or so and I just noticed it, because I'm a genius who didn't check the part before assembly.
Thanks ebay.
Old frame assembly is no good, right? Not really useable without much detailed hassle? Cut it, then! Small nibs, and that button should be just fine to press into to new assembly.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Brick?

So i installed cm13 then decided to go back to miui, I installed by sideload and everything went well. Pressed reboot system and it has never come on since. The battery was charged but now its flat. Plug into charger red led blinks for awhile then stops. No fastboot or recovery available to me due to lack of power in battery. Have ordered a new battery in the hope it just died ,I have had a few problems charging from completely flat recently anyone got any suggestions? thanks James.
jazz452 said:
So i installed cm13 then decided to go back to miui, I installed by sideload and everything went well. Pressed reboot system and it has never come on since. The battery was charged but now its flat. Plug into charger red led blinks for awhile then stops. No fastboot or recovery available to me due to lack of power in battery. Have ordered a new battery in the hope it just died ,I have had a few problems charging from completely flat recently anyone got any suggestions? thanks James.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take phone apart, unplug battery. Plug phone into mains with battery unplugged. While plugging in hold Vol Up, wait for Mi screen to appear, then it will disappear if it doesn't try again unplug charger and plug back in. When it disappears let go of Vol Up then plug the battery back in while still plugged into the mains (be careful I would just push the connector on using the plastic cover, no metal) that should get you into the recovery.
Kahun said:
Take phone apart, unplug battery. Plug phone into mains with battery unplugged. While plugging in hold Vol Up, wait for Mi screen to appear, then it will disappear if it doesn't try again unplug charger and plug back in. When it disappears let go of Vol Up then plug the battery back in while still plugged into the mains (be careful I would just push the connector on using the plastic cover, no metal) that should get you into the recovery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea saw your other post my battery is completely dead not the same as the other miui forum. Plugging in to mains with battery unplugged does nothing but I don't think its supposed to, something about certain ammount of charge before most modern phones will boot. I just seen some recent modern phone batteriy tests, where if the phone gets to a certain temp it takes the battery out and can't be stopped. Flashing the note pro with 810 snapdragon might not be a good idea, thermal throttling doesn't work while in TWRP. Will post back when new battery arrives. Thanks Kahun
Kahun said:
Take phone apart, unplug battery. Plug phone into mains with battery unplugged. While plugging in hold Vol Up, wait for Mi screen to appear, then it will disappear if it doesn't try again unplug charger and plug back in. When it disappears let go of Vol Up then plug the battery back in while still plugged into the mains (be careful I would just push the connector on using the plastic cover, no metal) that should get you into the recovery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If this is true then the phone must be completely broke, but nothing happened why would it just break doesn't make sense, surely even if I flashed the wrong rom something would still work (but I didn't).��
The battery won't be here till Wednesday at the earliest.. I have been flashing Roms for 10 years never made a brick before.
jazz452 said:
If this is true then the phone must be completely broke, but nothing happened why would it just break doesn't make sense, surely even if I flashed the wrong rom something would still work (but I didn't).��
The battery won't be here till Wednesday at the earliest.. I have been flashing Roms for 10 years never made a brick before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sure it's fixable. I never had a brick myself either. My battery failed on me at random so it could be same for you but I was able to turn my phone on using the method I told you.
So the new battery didn't help, not recognized by pc no recovery no fastboot so it's game over for this phone.
So there was a way to fix it, involving removing motherboard and connecting a wire to 2 test points, heat gun needed and loads of time, lost interest and binned it ��. May not have fixed it but I think it would have corrupted boot sector or something, if anyone else gets the same search " mi note pro dead" if you fancy a mission��
http://en.miui.com/thread-100855-1-1.html
jazz452 said:
So there was a way to fix it, involving removing motherboard and connecting a wire to 2 test points, heat gun needed and loads of time, lost interest and binned it ��. May not have fixed it but I think it would have corrupted boot sector or something, if anyone else gets the same search " mi note pro dead" if you fancy a mission��
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn you binned the phone? I would have bought it off you mate as I need a couple spare parts
Kahun said:
Damn you binned the phone? I would have bought it off you mate as I need a couple spare parts
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oops got 2 good batterys. You should of said if not fixable I would of had it. Send you the batterys for free if you want. Got a redmi note 3 pro now. The screen had a crack and the back wasn't original (plastic not glass) still got the sim holder, silver not gold (snapped the original) remember
jazz452 said:
Oops got 2 good batterys. You should of said if not fixable I would of had it. Send you the batterys for free if you want. Got a redmi note 3 pro now. The screen had a crack and the back wasn't original (plastic not glass) still got the sim holder, silver not gold (snapped the original) remember
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got a new battery in mine. What i need is the power button flex cable
Kahun said:
I got a new battery in mine. What i need is the power button flex cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's virtually impossible to remove the buttons think you need a new mid section, thats why I binned it, snapped when I took the motherboard out, although the midsection is cheap need to seperate the screen.
Kahun said:
I got a new battery in mine. What i need is the power button flex cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's virtually impossible to remove the buttons think you need a new mid section, thats why I binned it, snapped when I took the motherboard out, although the midsection is cheap need to seperate the screen. I took the flex out but didn't notice it was glued to the motherboard.:crying: The flex is volume +- and power cheap as chips but can't see how it could be fitted without removing screen.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/for-..._7&btsid=7afa7fca-e9dc-4a40-9007-bb701f8c097f
jazz452 said:
It's virtually impossible to remove the buttons think you need a new mid section, thats why I binned it, snapped when I took the motherboard out, although the midsection is cheap need to seperate the screen. I took the flex out but didn't notice it was glued to the motherboard.:crying: The flex is volume +- and power cheap as chips but can't see how it could be fitted without removing screen.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/for-..._7&btsid=7afa7fca-e9dc-4a40-9007-bb701f8c097f
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is cheap indeed hah! and you do not need to remove the screen? Don't see why you would. It's easy just heat it up and take it off as there's a bit of adhesive.
Kahun said:
It is cheap indeed hah! and you do not need to remove the screen? Don't see why you would. It's easy just heat it up and take it off as there's a bit of adhesive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually give up on the removing screen bit unless it smashed, saying that if the mid section is dented may as well replace it. I couldn't see how the button flex came out looked like it was essembled from under the screen not from the back.
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale...105806&isPremium=y&SearchText=mi+note+pro+mid
jazz452 said:
I actually give up on the removing screen bit unless it smashed, saying that if the mid section is dented may as well replace it. I couldn't see how the button flex came out looked like it was essembled from under the screen not from the back.
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale...105806&isPremium=y&SearchText=mi+note+pro+mid
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But this mid section is not gold! People will think you have the Mi Note and no it definitely comes out the back the vol/pow flex cable as it connects to the mobo on the back.
http://www.honorbuy.com/385-mid-frame-assembly-for-xiaomi-mi-note-pro.html
Gold is no problem, the link I posted said black gold or silver but the new link says only for the pro so your probably right.If you look closely on the new link the volume flex comes with the mid section. Damn if I had seen this before it would be working now:crying:
jazz452 said:
http://www.honorbuy.com/385-mid-frame-assembly-for-xiaomi-mi-note-pro.html
Gold is no problem, the link I posted said black gold or silver but the new link says only for the pro so your probably right.If you look closely on the new link the volume flex comes with the mid section. Damn if I had seen this before it would be working now:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh damn it Did you buy a new phone now?
New phone
Yes I bought lg g5 and gave it my wife, them broke it for her. Now she got redmi3 note pro,I'm not touching it
My phone is now a brick too! Woo! It wont charge as the sensor thinks the battery is -19.5 C. Oh well downgraded to a Samsung S5 at the moment and just awaiting payday so i can order OnePlus 3
No way, it might comeback to life in a month or 2
How can that happen,?

Note 9 wont turn on after rear glass removal.

I cracked my screen a while ago and just got the time to do the install, but as some of you may know the adhesive holding this turd together is very tough. After blasting with a hair dryer and buying an automotive suction cup I finally got the glass off but it cracked too bad to be reused. I cant do anything with the device now. I've held all buttons for a restart but the broken pixels light up for a split second and then it vibrates for a quick second. as i continue to hold it runs through that process over and over. Even plugging it in to the wall I cant even get a charge light. The only cause i could think of is too much heat. i replaced the screen on a note 5 with no issues. It just makes no sense that it doesn't do anything from peeling the rear glass off. Unfortunately I'm at the parents house where I'm the only android user so i cant plug into a PC as i have the 2 sided typeC cable.
Any Ideas?? As I'm Stumped. And to top it off my spare phone an unlocked Pixel 2 is having the No Sim issue.... Fun times.... It just finished the factory reset and still wont detect my Verizon SIM or ATT. So that's cool, haha.
Thanks for the help. Much appreciate2
Bananas HD said:
I cracked my screen a while ago and just got the time to do the install, but as some of you may know the adhesive holding this turd together is very tough. After blasting with a hair dryer and buying an automotive suction cup I finally got the glass off but it cracked too bad to be reused. I cant do anything with the device now. I've held all buttons for a restart but the broken pixels light up for a split second and then it vibrates for a quick second. as i continue to hold it runs through that process over and over. Even plugging it in to the wall I cant even get a charge light. The only cause i could think of is too much heat. i replaced the screen on a note 5 with no issues. It just makes no sense that it doesn't do anything from peeling the rear glass off. Unfortunately I'm at the parents house where I'm the only android user so i cant plug into a PC as i have the 2 sided typeC cable.
Any Ideas?? As I'm Stumped. And to top it off my spare phone an unlocked Pixel 2 is having the No Sim issue.... Fun times.... It just finished the factory reset and still wont detect my Verizon SIM or ATT. So that's cool, haha.
Thanks for the help. Much appreciate2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stupid question did you reconnect the fingerprint sensor back in? It might need that to be connected to work.
Recheck all the connections again and ribbon cables for any damage maybe it got loose or heat damaged or cut.
BluePhnx said:
Stupid question did you reconnect the fingerprint sensor back in? It might need that to be connected to work.
Recheck all the connections again and ribbon cables for any damage maybe it got loose or heat damaged or cut.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes its been plugged in and the only thing i damaged was the foam on top of the lock button but its barely peeled back. no visible damage to the cable its self. and with the back cover the only part i took off the only exposed cable is really the fingerprint scanner. The scanner does though have some visible heat damage. there's little spots on it that wasn't there before. I think that's the cause of the problem.
could it be possible that i overheated the battery and now the device is in some kind of protection mode? the device could be thinking that it could catch fire or something? I know that Li-on batteries are pretty fragile to temperature.
Thanks for the help
Bananas HD said:
Yes its been plugged in and the only thing i damaged was the foam on top of the lock button but its barely peeled back. no visible damage to the cable its self. and with the back cover the only part i took off the only exposed cable is really the fingerprint scanner. The scanner does though have some visible heat damage. there's little spots on it that wasn't there before. I think that's the cause of the problem.
could it be possible that i overheated the battery and now the device is in some kind of protection mode? the device could be thinking that it could catch fire or something? I know that Li-on batteries are pretty fragile to temperature.
Thanks for the help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a multimeter you can check the battery voltage. If you have voltage then it should be okay but maybe the life of it won't be as long as before. Does the phone charge when you plug it in?
The fingerprint sensor might be the problem. I would replace it as with the battery as well.
Best bet have a Samsung service center look at it, it might be something else.
Good luck with it hope you get it figured out!
BluePhnx said:
If you have a multimeter you can check the battery voltage. If you have voltage then it should be okay but maybe the life of it won't be as long as before. Does the phone charge when you plug it in?
The fingerprint sensor might be the problem. I would replace it as with the battery as well.
Best bet have a Samsung service center look at it, it might be something else.
Good luck with it hope you get it figured out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good thinking on throwing a meter on it. will do that when i get home. it doesn't charge or do anything when plugging into a computer or the wall. any idea what the voltage should be on the battery? is there anywhere i can get values like that for different components of the device? thanks
Bananas HD said:
good thinking on throwing a meter on it. will do that when i get home. it doesn't charge or do anything when plugging into a computer or the wall. any idea what the voltage should be on the battery? is there anywhere i can get values like that for different components of the device? thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery specs should be 4000 mah, 15.4 Wh and 3.85 V.
Even though it will show voltage it might not have enough amperage to run. So might check for amperage as well.
Might want to hook up a light circuit to the battery and place the meter in between the + battery to + side of light (meaning the same line) to measure amps.
If it doesn't charge from the wall might as well replace the battery.
If that doesn't work most likely a dead phone (motherboard).
For any voltage values for the motherboard, sorry no idea if you can find that info.
You've been quite the help Blue. Thank you so much. Will be home tmrw and will check on the device. I'll be sure to come back with findings to return the favor. Thanks again! Hope you had a good holiday and Happy New Year!

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