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I want to keep the build around $800. I am planning on reusing my case, NZXT Tempest Evo, keyboard, mouse HD-dvd/BD drive and my monitor, Acer H233H. I don't game that often and if I do it is not the latest game out. I don't watch movies on my rig, I just encode my movies to be able to stream them to my media player, surf the web and work from home, using word and excel mainly. My wife tends to use photoshop or some other photo editing software. I would like to be able to overclock and be able to upgrade to Bulldozer, probably with the next series of chips.
So far I have come up with the following:
CORSAIR CWCH60 Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler $73.74
Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) with Transfer Kit $214.99
CORSAIR Professional Series HX650 (CMPSU-650HX) 650W $119.99
ASUS Crosshair V Formula AM3+ AMD 990FX $229.99
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T $169.99
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) $89.99
Total is $898.69
What can I change from above to bring the price down? Obviously if the board does not come with built-in video, I will need to get a video card as well. Any other info you may need to help me?
_eroz said:
I want to keep the build around $800. I am planning on reusing my case, NZXT Tempest Evo, keyboard, mouse HD-dvd/BD drive and my monitor, Acer H233H. I don't game that often and if I do it is not the latest game out. I don't watch movies on my rig, I just encode my movies to be able to stream them to my media player, surf the web and work from home, using word and excel mainly. My wife tends to use photoshop or some other photo editing software. I would like to be able to overclock and be able to upgrade to Bulldozer, probably with the next series of chips.
So far I have come up with the following:
CORSAIR CWCH60 Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler $73.74
Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) with Transfer Kit $214.99
CORSAIR Professional Series HX650 (CMPSU-650HX) 650W $119.99
ASUS Crosshair V Formula AM3+ AMD 990FX $229.99
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T $169.99
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) $89.99
Total is $898.69
What can I change from above to bring the price down? Obviously if the board does not come with built-in video, I will need to get a video card as well. Any other info you may need to help me?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Drop the SSD. You don't need that unless you're REALLY into speed and gaming. SSDs will reduce load time and boot time, but nothing a little patience can't fix. Your PSU is more than a little overpowered, too, for your current usage. Experience dictates that about 50% or more of the power goes to the GPU, and you don't have a GPU.
sakai4eva said:
Drop the SSD. You don't need that unless you're REALLY into speed and gaming. SSDs will reduce load time and boot time, but nothing a little patience can't fix. Your PSU is more than a little overpowered, too, for your current usage. Experience dictates that about 50% or more of the power goes to the GPU, and you don't have a GPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1. Ditch the SSD and use the leftover cash to get a midrange gpu. I payed 220 for a gtx 560 ti sc and am very happy with it. It plays most games on med/high without much effort and you can sli later. There are cheaper but get whatever fits your needs best.
I'll play devil's advocate here and say stick with the SSD. If you want to save a bit of cash, ditch the after-market CPU cooler.
Here's the reasoning:
That CPU running at stock speeds (with stock cooler) combined with an SSD will feel significantly faster than an overclocked CPU (with a fancy cooler) combined with a mechanical HDD.
I personally went from an 4-year-old Intel Core2Quad Q6600 to a Core i7 2600. I kept my mechanical HDD at the time. My video rendering times were slashed by half, which I was impressed with. But everything else felt the same (ie, navigating the OS, web browsing, document editing, etc).
A few months later, I threw in an OCZ Agility3 SSD. Everything suddenly just seems so much snappier. It's like day and night.
If you need to experience the difference yourself, just visit your local Apple Store (gasp!). Play around with the Macbook Air (with SSD) and the Macbook Pro (usually with mechanical HDD). The CPU in the Pros are significantly faster than the Air. Yet, the Air feels faster throughout.
ohyeahar said:
I'll play devil's advocate here and say stick with the SSD. If you want to save a bit of cash, ditch the after-market CPU cooler.
Here's the reasoning:
That CPU running at stock speeds (with stock cooler) combined with an SSD will feel significantly faster than an overclocked CPU (with a fancy cooler) combined with a mechanical HDD.
I personally went from an 4-year-old Intel Core2Quad Q6600 to a Core i7 2600. I kept my mechanical HDD at the time. My video rendering times were slashed by half, which I was impressed with. But everything else felt the same (ie, navigating the OS, web browsing, document editing, etc).
A few months later, I threw in an OCZ Agility3 SSD. Everything suddenly just seems so much snappier. It's like day and night.
If you need to experience the difference yourself, just visit your local Apple Store (gasp!). Play around with the Macbook Air (with SSD) and the Macbook Pro (usually with mechanical HDD). The CPU in the Pros are significantly faster than the Air. Yet, the Air feels faster throughout.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never thought of that approach to testing an ssd before. I guess i'll need to make a trip to the Apple store myself before building my next comp in a few months.
ohyeahar said:
I'll play devil's advocate here and say stick with the SSD. If you want to save a bit of cash, ditch the after-market CPU cooler.
Here's the reasoning:
That CPU running at stock speeds (with stock cooler) combined with an SSD will feel significantly faster than an overclocked CPU (with a fancy cooler) combined with a mechanical HDD.
I personally went from an 4-year-old Intel Core2Quad Q6600 to a Core i7 2600. I kept my mechanical HDD at the time. My video rendering times were slashed by half, which I was impressed with. But everything else felt the same (ie, navigating the OS, web browsing, document editing, etc).
A few months later, I threw in an OCZ Agility3 SSD. Everything suddenly just seems so much snappier. It's like day and night.
If you need to experience the difference yourself, just visit your local Apple Store (gasp!). Play around with the Macbook Air (with SSD) and the Macbook Pro (usually with mechanical HDD). The CPU in the Pros are significantly faster than the Air. Yet, the Air feels faster throughout.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll play the devil in the details here.
Dig a ditch with your shovel.
I'ld suggest getting a smaller ssd, and using it just for your OS partition, and for the ready you can get a huge hdd
Also, cutting some more cost down and getting a gpu would be better IMO
16GB isn't really needed much today unless your work needs it or something else, you can go for 8 and add in a gpu, after some months you can get another 8, to compensate
i say DO put in the money to get a graphics card. midrage nvidia geforce will make all the difference in the world.
cdesai said:
I'ld suggest getting a smaller ssd, and using it just for your OS partition, and for the ready you can get a huge hdd
Also, cutting some more cost down and getting a gpu would be better IMO
16GB isn't really needed much today unless your work needs it or something else, you can go for 8 and add in a gpu, after some months you can get another 8, to compensate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ideally, the SSD would house your OS and your applications folder. You should have a mechanical HDD for your personal documents.
Why did you pick the Crucial SSD? I'm looking at OCZ Agility3 specs which seems to suggest it's faster than the Crucial drive while being $40 less expensive (albeit with 8GB less capacity).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227726
I agree regarding the 16GB vs 8GB RAM. That's definitely an area where you can easily save some money without sacrificing performance. But remember to go with 2 x 4GB DIMMs (rather than 4 x 2GB DIMMs) so you leave yourself an upgrade path.
Hi everyone,
So I'm going off to college soon and I plan on getting a laptop and a desktop for my dorm (one to fall back on if the other dies for some reason). I am pretty sure I know which laptop I am getting, but I am having a harder time building a decently priced small gaming rig for a desktop.
Approximate Purchase Date: Most likely during the black friday/holiday season
Budget Range: 500-800 w/ rebates
System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, Surfing the Net, Schoolwork
Parts Not Required: Keyboard, Mouse, RAM (4gb GSkill DDR3), Hard Drive (1.5 TB Samsung 5400 rpm)
Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Newegg, Tigerdirect, (any site is okay by me)
Country: USA
Parts Preferences: by brand or type AMD CPU, NZXT Vulcan MicroATX Case, SSD
Overclocking: Maybe
SLI or Crossfire: Maybe
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
Additional Comments: Needs to be small but very powerful, which is why I selected the Vulcan case.
Here is what I have so far:
AMD Phenom II X4 955-109.99
NZXT Vulcan Micro Tower Case-69.99
OCZ 600W PSU- 69.99 (I'm bad at finding PSU's, so this is open to change)
Gigabyte GeForce 560 Ti- 220
Thanks Everyone.
monkeychef said:
Hi everyone,
So I'm going off to college soon and I plan on getting a laptop and a desktop for my dorm (one to fall back on if the other dies for some reason). I am pretty sure I know which laptop I am getting, but I am having a harder time building a decently priced small gaming rig for a desktop.
Approximate Purchase Date: Most likely during the black friday/holiday season
Budget Range: 500-800 w/ rebates
System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, Surfing the Net, Schoolwork
Parts Not Required: Keyboard, Mouse, RAM (4gb GSkill DDR3), Hard Drive (1.5 TB Samsung 5400 rpm)
Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Newegg, Tigerdirect, (any site is okay by me)
Country: USA
Parts Preferences: by brand or type AMD CPU, NZXT Vulcan MicroATX Case, SSD
Overclocking: Maybe
SLI or Crossfire: Maybe
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
Additional Comments: Needs to be small but very powerful, which is why I selected the Vulcan case.
Here is what I have so far:
AMD Phenom II X4 955-109.99
NZXT Vulcan Micro Tower Case-69.99
OCZ 600W PSU- 69.99 (I'm bad at finding PSU's, so this is open to change)
Gigabyte GeForce 560 Ti- 220
Thanks Everyone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stick to one device. Either get a desktop, or just a laptop.
Hey guys, I've (with a fair degree of certainty) picked out the pieces for my next (college now!) comp build. Just looking for thoughts and comments.
i7 2700k:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1380569&sku=I69-2700K
ASUS P8Z77-V Deluxe:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2291302&sku=A455-2037
Thermaltake VN10006W2N Level 10 GT Snow Edition:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=899127&sku=T925-7002
Corsair Vengeance 16gb PC12800 1600MHz:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7025816&sku=C13-5706
Patriot Pyro SE 120GB SSD:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1457210&sku=P33-8507
Ultra X4 750-Watt Modular Power Supply V2:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1583410&sku=U12-41562
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6076939&sku=TSD-1000FAEX
EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2827136&sku=E145-0671
Noctua NH-D14 CPU Cooler:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5592441&sku=N126-1024
The only thing i'm considering is, if it's even necessary (Running Dual-Monitor setup, gaming on 1 @ 1920 x 1080), I may just buy (after another paycheck haha) a second GTX 670. I plan on SLI'ing a 2nd one eventually anyways, so might as well now if it's necessary. On simple games (Such as League of Legends, to which i'm addicted) my current 460 SE doesn't even hiccup to easily push 60 FPS. However, in graphic intense games (Metro 2033, Crysis (though i'll never play it), etc.) I'm not sure a single card, even a 670, could push 60 FPS. So it may be worth it. Comments/opinions/thoughts?
Personally if I were you I would throw down an extra $50 and get the Kingston HyperX 120gb SSD.
That is the SSD I'm running in my desktop and I LOVE it. I have never had a single problem with it. Not to mention that out of 140+ reviews (There is another package with the same SSD but more extra stuff) and this thing has a solid 5 star review.
The one upgrade i can think of, is I'll probably get an 850W instead of the 750W. with both the GFX cards, OuterVision eXtreme's PSU calculator puts me at 730W. There is 20W room, but i'd rather have much more as the calculator is not perfect.
I'm interested in building my own gaming pc, something that can run games like BF3 and Fallout 3, New Vegas on full graphics. If I had to throw a price out there, I would say something under $700, the cheaper the better. I don't have a preference in parts since I am not experienced at all in this. I have looked at different videos and tutorials on this but I wanted peoples opinions on specific combinations, part brands, etc. Thank you beforehand! :good:
I asked this question here before, a member recommended me to go to overclocked.net they could help you out alot there on how to build a computer and what parts fit your specific needs
Sent from my LG-VM696 using Tapatalk 2
I think this isn't very helpful but you should check alienware. They have that desktop for 700 bucks which has great specs.
Georges2251 said:
I think this isn't very helpful but you should check alienware. They have that desktop for 700 bucks which has great specs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT get an alienware. They are the apple of PC's. You pay a huge premium for fancy lights.
Get a computer with something along these lines:
Nvidia gtx 670
8-16 gig ram
Because of your price range you might have to go i5 as your processor
Asus motherboards are the bomb.
A cool case but don't spend more than 40 bucks on the case.
Any store you would recommend for the parts, something maybe cheaper and as reliable as New Egg?
Moved to Off-topic.
tigerdirect.com is a great place for parts
quad core CPU i5 or i7 $200
8gb ram 1600mhz or above $40
500 or 600 gtx series nvidia video card $200
SSD 128gb or above $200
750w power supply $50
Those prices are a guestimation based on average market prices. You don't need to trick out your case IMO, any that will fit your motherboard and everything else is fine. Frys electronics is a local electronics store near me that sells it all if you have one near you go there.
Thanks guys, this really gives me a good idea on what I need. What about in regards to the monitor and such. Anything good for the money? Any tips will be really appreciated.
valdesr11 said:
Thanks guys, this really gives me a good idea on what I need. What about in regards to the monitor and such. Anything good for the money? Any tips will be really appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was as close as I could get on newegg:
Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Item #: N82E16811129042
$54.99
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Item #: N82E16822152185
$69.99
Acer G215HVAbd Black 21.5" Full HD WideScreen LCD Monitor
Item #: N82E16824009306
$119.99
SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card (100314-3L )
Item #: N82E16814102948
$169.99
Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817371030
$59.99
G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model F3-10600CL9D-8GBNT
Item #: N82E16820231422
$39.99
Intel BOXDZ77SL50K LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #: N82E16813121618
$119.99
Intel Core i3-2120 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 65W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I32120
Item #: N82E16819115077
$124.99
Total before shipping+tax: $759.92
Could probably be brought down some by going with cheaper/ghetto on many of the parts like power supply, mobo, vid card, memory, case.
Also this does not take into account a copy of Windows (could be had cheaply if you are a college student through your school most likely) and keyboard+mouse.
Also could shop around for prices, Amazon can be pretty good as well as other sites mentioned.
I mostly stick with Antec for cases/power supplies these days, they're not super-gamer oriented by they have good 12v amperage and reliability.
I've been going intel not only CPUs but also Mobos for the same reasons, they are no frills reference boards. Simple and reliable. I see the appeal of overclocking but it just has never been a priority, spending more money on proper mobo+cooling to possibly reduce video encode times by seconds, maybe minutes?
Same with SLI/Crossfire, by the time I think I could benefit from a 2nd card the newer cards are already as good if not better for around what I paid for the first one.
If you did expand your budget I'd recommend a Crucial SSD drive over beefing up the CPU and mobo. You'll get more real performance gains from an SSD. Just don't benchmark it every day like a moron, they do have limited write cycles but it will last many many years with normal use not continuous torture testing.
Nice choice.. but it would be better if you go for i5 or i7 quad core processor.. they will give you higher fps and smoother performance..
Sent from the Underdog..
heinrichkaiser said:
Nice choice.. but it would be better if you go for i5 or i7 quad core processor.. they will give you higher fps and smoother performance..
Sent from the Underdog..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Considering his budget I'd stick with the i3. An i5 won't give any meaningful performance gains for the majority of games out there as they are usually not multi-threaded.
Google for: "The Clarkdale Review: Intel's Core i5 661, i3 540 & i3 530"
It's an AnandTech review, there is a gaming page and it shows there really is only a 3-7 frame difference between the processors, and that's with the FPS being over 70.
Also as I said aside from the graphics card a Crucial SSD would provide the biggest performance gains overall. For games it will significantly cut down launch and load times. And it will make everything else faster, but with the budget as it is that will probably be an upgrade for later (though the prices have come down quite a bit, they are now under the $1/1GB ratio).
Also if you are on a budget, I'd also recommend picking up a basic Dell with an i3 processor and a PCI-Express slot and then getting a Radeon 6850 or 6870. Then expand the ram out yourself as well. It would probably be the cheapest way to get a decent base that you could upgrade to gaming duty.
I'm not really on a budget, I just wouldn't want to spend too much. I do play, but not to an extent that I would go all out. I play maybe a couple of times a week, mostly online with BF3 and story modes on games like Fallout and Skyrim. I decided to sell my laptop since my family got me an Ipad for my birthday, and with the PC that I build with this I can sell my Xbox as well with all its games. Then I'll use my PC for school, games, and surfing the web. The Ipad for traveling and taking it to school. You guys know more than me about what is best when it comes to gaming PC's, I just want to get my money's worth and not make a mistake when putting it together. If I need to go over my "budget" a bit, its no big deal, same with letting me know if you think I shouldn't even build one and just get a Dell like you said, and upgrade the main parts for gaming in order to save money.
valdesr11 said:
I'm not really on a budget, I just wouldn't want to spend too much. I do play, but not to an extent that I would go all out. I play maybe a couple of times a week, mostly online with BF3 and story modes on games like Fallout and Skyrim. I decided to sell my laptop since my family got me an Ipad for my birthday, and with the PC that I build with this I can sell my Xbox as well with all its games. Then I'll use my PC for school, games, and surfing the web. The Ipad for traveling and taking it to school. You guys know more than me about what is best when it comes to gaming PC's, I just want to get my money's worth and not make a mistake when putting it together. If I need to go over my "budget" a bit, its no big deal, same with letting me know if you think I shouldn't even build one and just get a Dell like you said, and upgrade the main parts for gaming in order to save money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Building a PC isn't too bad nowadays but there are weird little quirks you can run into.
For instance, I build a system for my wife and got a case with USB3.0 front ports but the mobo only had USB2.0 front panel connectors, oops. Ended up having to buy an adapter from another case manufacturer, wasn't a huge deal but was a little annoying. I've also had issues with cases having more fans and plug harnesses than the motherboard had but that is less the case as a lot of case fans use molex harnesses.
frank_jaeger said:
Building a PC isn't too bad nowadays but there are weird little quirks you can run into.
For instance, I build a system for my wife and got a case with USB3.0 front ports but the mobo only had USB2.0 front panel connectors, oops. Ended up having to buy an adapter from another case manufacturer, wasn't a huge deal but was a little annoying. I've also had issues with cases having more fans and plug harnesses than the motherboard had but that is less the case as a lot of case fans use molex harnesses.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah stuff like this is what I want to avoid.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
valdesr11 said:
Yeah stuff like this is what I want to avoid.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I listed earlier is a pretty decent start point I think.
Case obviously is very much up to taste, I like the Antec 300 because it has a lot of bays, large rear and top fans and looks nice. No chrome and lights n stuff.
Video card could be swapped based on brand/manufacturer preference.
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Item #: N82E16832116986
$99.99
Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Item #: N82E16820148443
$179.99
Adding the OS (Win7 Home 64-bit OEM) and the SSD drive bumps the total up to $1,035.90.
The SSD drive would be for OS, games, programs. And any big files like movies, music, etc could go on the regular 1TB.
As far as actually assembling it you can probably find some pretty good generic guides but really just need to take it slow and follow the directions. The case comes with these kind of "post" screws, that you put on first and then the MB sits on those and then you use the normal little screws. And check everything to make sure the screws you use are the correct threading for where you put them.
Oh and IO panel cover that comes with the MB goes into the case first before mounting the MB itself.
One weird area is connecting all the front panel switches and lights (power, hdd activity) from the case to the MB, usually isn't too bad as the case plugs are labeled and then you just color match.
I honestly think an i3 will be sufficient for normal use and gaming. Additional threads/cores won't really show their worth unless you're doing 3D rendering or lots of encoding jobs.
Only thing is with the OEM license it would be paired to the motherboard at license time. The retail license which you can move between complete systems is an additional $80.
frank_jaeger said:
What I listed earlier is a pretty decent start point I think.
Case obviously is very much up to taste, I like the Antec 300 because it has a lot of bays, large rear and top fans and looks nice. No chrome and lights n stuff.
Video card could be swapped based on brand/manufacturer preference.
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Item #: N82E16832116986
$99.99
Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Item #: N82E16820148443
$179.99
Adding the OS (Win7 Home 64-bit OEM) and the SSD drive bumps the total up to $1,035.90.
The SSD drive would be for OS, games, programs. And any big files like movies, music, etc could go on the regular 1TB.
As far as actually assembling it you can probably find some pretty good generic guides but really just need to take it slow and follow the directions. The case comes with these kind of "post" screws, that you put on first and then the MB sits on those and then you use the normal little screws. And check everything to make sure the screws you use are the correct threading for where you put them.
Oh and IO panel cover that comes with the MB goes into the case first before mounting the MB itself.
One weird area is connecting all the front panel switches and lights (power, hdd activity) from the case to the MB, usually isn't too bad as the case plugs are labeled and then you just color match.
I honestly think an i3 will be sufficient for normal use and gaming. Additional threads/cores won't really show their worth unless you're doing 3D rendering or lots of encoding jobs.
Only thing is with the OEM license it would be paired to the motherboard at license time. The retail license which you can move between complete systems is an additional $80.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fortunately, my school provides us with Windows 7 (all versions) for free. So that's $100 I can save. Building it doesn't worry me as much as getting the right parts and making sure they work for what I need them for. What is the deal with AMD and why do people love Intel so much over it?
valdesr11 said:
Fortunately, my school provides us with Windows 7 (all versions) for free. So that's $100 I can save. Building it doesn't worry me as much as getting the right parts and making sure they work for what I need them for. What is the deal with AMD and why do people love Intel so much over it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intel hit a homerun with the initial Core 2 Duo/Quad processors after the old Core Duo pieces of crap. Since then they haven't let their quality and performance drop. They were the SSD leaders for awhile as well but Crucial took that away from them, Samsung is making noise but still hasn't been proven.
Really though it just comes down to preference. I'm not really up to date on what AMDs current cpu offerings are, I switched from AMD to Intel during the Core 2 Duo days and stuck into the Core i series. Basically it seems the AMD cpus are sub-par compared to Intel offerings and to counter-balance AMD cuts the price.
Granted while I have no preference for AMDs processors I love their GPUs. The Radeon HD 4870 made a lot of waves when it came out and they've continued to deliver. The 6850/70/90 have excellent performance to price ratios.
That's another item you could swap, is the 6850 for the 6870 (what I'm running currently) or a comparable Nvidia card, just check the reviews on sites like anandtech, tomshardware, legitreviews. Again this is all opinion but the card manufacturers I've been partial to lately are Sapphire/XFX/EVGA, mostly Sapphire because they are the least expensive and I've had great results with them. ASUS and Gigabyte would probably be ok.
Also as an earlier posted said you can most likely get better info/recommendations from a dedicated site like overclock.net.
SKYNET 1.0
Good morning everyone,
I thought I should share the official build I purchased last night. Came out to a little more expensive than I wanted but it will be worth it in the end.
And that's with not doing exactly what I wanted of having two monitors and throwing in there a home theater system build as well.
So I just kept it as a gaming system for now. I will either be upgrading it as I go or sell it in the future and build my second one when I have money for it with exactly what I want, and possibly learn to overclock
1 x Logitech MK550 Black USB RF Wireless Ergonomic Wave Combo
1 x APC BE450G 450 VA 257 Watts UPS
1 x ASRock B75 PRO3 LGA 1155 Intel B75 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
1 x Newegg Free CPU Magazine Coupon
1 x Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, ...
1 x ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor W/Speakers
1 x SAMSUNG 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model MV-3V4G3D/US
1 x EVGA 012-P3-1571-KR GeForce GTX 570 HD w/Display-Port (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready ...
1 x Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
1 x Rosewill CAPSTONE Series CAPSTONE-450-M 450W ATX12V v2.31 & EPS12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD ...
1 x ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
1 x Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics ...
Everything including shipping came out to $1,077.18 - $30 in rebates.
I'll post some pictures later on of the building process just to share with you guys.
P.S. Thank you guys for all the advice and mad credit to everyone from the overclock.net community. You were all great and a big influence on my build.
Nice!!!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Is Samsung Tab A 10.1 in 2020 worth it?
Shopping for a tablet for daily media consumption and checking up on emails while working from home during the social distancing order? Have a look at this budget Samsung tablet just may suit the family.
Comes with Exynos 7904 octa-core processor, 2x 1.8GHz and 6x 16GHz cores with 2GB or RAM and 32GB of storage with expandable the microSD storage.
The device charges via USB-C and still spot a 3.5mm headphone jack!
10.1-inch device with the screen at a 16:10 aspect ratio.
1920 x 1200 resolution is more than enough to display movies well.
The screen is sufficiently bright with good color and contrast.
Comes with two speakers, situated at the bottom of the device when held in portrait mode. They’re thankfully loud enough, but it’s odd to have two speakers situated on one side of the device when it makes more sense to place them on different ends, which would’ve given us proper stereo separation when watching movies in landscape mode.
The battery life is excellent. The 6,150mAh battery it ships with is massive as it is, and using the device throughout the entire day for a combination of web browsing, some videos and some gaming could still leave about 40% by the end of the day.
Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 (2019)
IPS LCD WUXGA 1200 x 1920 pixels, 224 ppi
Exynos 7904 processor
32GB ROM + 2GB RAM
Battery 6150 mAh
Thickness 7.5mm
Weight 469g
Android 9.0 One UI