:roll:
O.K. Been a while since I have posted but here goes the new mod. I had wired in an old Ericsson car charger to the modded IPAQ connector to supply 5 volts to the XDA for power. Problem was I still had to use batteries or a seperate power supply for the GPS.
The cable that runs up to the GPS is a standard phone line RJ11 connector (3 wires). The GPS has a six wire RJ45 connector on the circuit board. What yo have to do is to replace the black wire (three 3 wires in it) with a four 4 wire phone cable. You will have on extra wire. We will use this for our power running up to the GPS. Connect this to the + 5 volt wire running in from the car charger. Connect the black to the ground and the green and yellow toio the data contacts on the PDA connector. Look at the two RJ11 jacks and use the correct wires. Now connect the black to the ground running in on the car charger.
Next unscrew the case on the gps. You will need to solder two jumper wires across from the RJ45 jack over to the standard power connector. Run a jumper from the - on the poer supply over to the pin that had the black wire connected to it through the RJ jack. Next run a jumper from the power jack + over to where the red power wire runs up providing 5v. Now it doesnt matter if you have batteries in it or not you will have power from the car charger being plugged in.
Will try to piost some pics.
Here is a link to the previous mod for the IPAQ cinnector.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=2244&highlight=digitraveler
Dave
Thanks for that, makes it a much more tidy job.
Related
What's the deal with the battery on this phone. It takes several hours (3-4) to go from (near) 0 to 100% charge, with USB.
And, when using navigation on the phone, with a car charger plugged in, the phone still loses a little bit of charge. All other phones I had, they would charge somewhat slowly with the GPS on (since GPS is using draining a lot), and never seen one that loses charge even while connected.
I have tried 2 different car chargers, both aftermarket though. Do you see the same?
hkk said:
What's the deal with the battery on this phone. It takes several hours (3-4) to go from (near) 0 to 100% charge, with USB.
And, when using navigation on the phone, with a car charger plugged in, the phone still loses a little bit of charge. All other phones I had, they would charge somewhat slowly with the GPS on (since GPS is using draining a lot), and never seen one that loses charge even while connected.
I have tried 2 different car chargers, both aftermarket though. Do you see the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of the car chargers only deliver 500mAh - when your phone is plugged in, go to settings-> about phone and see if it says AC or USB charging. You also need a car charger that is rated at more then 500 mA.
But even with a charger rated at more then 500mA - the phone still thinks it is plugged into USB. I got around this by modifying a USB cable - I connected the data lines together on the micro usb end and the phone thinks it has AC power and charging keeps up with GPS.
BTW I am using a 2 port car charger (2 1Amp USB ports) Griffin I think, but i tested with many others, and after other internet searching realized the wall charger shorts the data wires and we can mimic this on a car charger.
alphadog,
Thanks for the reply.
Can you give more details on how to connect the data lines together? And, no issues doing that?
hkk said:
alphadog,
Thanks for the reply.
Can you give more details on how to connect the data lines together? And, no issues doing that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No issues for me. First - use a decent USB cable. Also, see this thread for more info... one of my posts is page 2. Page one shows you an easier hack for testing - no cutting required.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=774665&highlight=battery
I took a USB cable and did all my work on the micro end - where the connector for the phone is. I stripped back some of the outer insulation, so i could work on the inner wires. I didn't cut the whole end off. The two wires that are not red and black are the data wires. I cut them, stripped them, and soldered them together. These 2 wires are from the micro plug end, so i created a loop back or connection of the 2 data wires at the plug end.
Phone
V+ Red wire -------------------------------USB Plug @ Car Charger
D+ ----------------| connect
D- ----------------| these 2 wires
V- Black wire ------------------------------ USB Plug
Today I managed to get my NookColor cable caught in my car door while I was getting in my car to head to work. This mangled the cable up pretty good. After much swearing and a trip to Barnes and Nobles I purchased a replacement cable. With the new cable in hand I figured I might as well take the end apart on the broken one to see how it was wired up. Using a pocket knife I forced the joint where the two pieced of plastic are joined together apart. The end result is rather interesting.
The first image is of the top side of the connector. This is where the little LED is located. The second image is of the bottom side of the connector. The third is of the bottom side of the connector with the shield removed.
The interesting thing is that the connector does not actually have the four standard pads for connecting to the normal USB pins in the NC's socket. It only connects to the twelve extra pins at the back of the NC's socket. Two of those extra pins must be for the standard USB communications. At least two more are used for the power connection to the NC. That leaves eight unknown pins. One or two of which probably controls the LED on the cable. As soon as I can find my multimeter, I plan on doing a continuity check between the USB cable wires and the pins in the connector. Any other suggestions of things I should be looking for?
I read in passing that the deeper socket on the nc, that makes regular microUSB cables not charge the nc, relates to the extra contacts needed to charge the bigger battery more quickly. Will try to find the reference-
Regular cables DO charge... At 500mha, the stock rom does not she charging but it does around 10%/hr if idle.
There are certainly several ground pins which should be ready to find. finding those will help narrow it down.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA App
Khaytsus: i stand corrected. Found the reference: barnes& noble 'book clubs' (ie forums) thread on "things that you should know about the NookCOLOR." A non nook color USB won't charge it when in a wall socket, but may keep the battery from at least going down.
Even a NC branded USB isn't officially expected to charge a NC, if plugged into a pc USB port. Neverrtheless, some say it trickle charges when left atrached to a computer all night (like 8hrs). In a wall socket it supposed to charge in 4 -5 hours.
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
The same thing happened with me too(my cable also broke, and i decided to experiment with it). Here's what i found out.
1. Three wires in the usb cables are solely meant for charging.
2. If only two (ground an one live) wires are connected, the stock cable charges nook like a ordinary usb cable(very slow).
3. The nooks usb cable tip had 3-4 more outputs which were not connected to any wires in the usb cable(they could be anything from mic input to video output).
I was trying to get more info on these extra outputs by soldering some wires to them but it needs very fine soldering, i couldn't achieve that and i broke mine entirely.
That reminds me can anyone send me a extra cable as am not in U.S(so B&N won't send me one) and am sick of waiting for 10 hours before i can play with my nook again.
mjf0000000 said:
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uummm... Don't think this is true as I charged my Nook just last night with it turned off.
I'm sure you have this, but for anyone else who would like to look at the standard USB pinouts.
While I'm on the topic, did the Nova disection help in determining the Nook end of the connections?
the last time i looked, Nova hadn't really looked that close at the USB...they were focusing on the wifi/BT chip.
very nice was planning on doing this myself one day soon...any chance you can go in a bit closer and get clearer pics of the traces on the pcb? Would really help to decipher it.
Interested to see a breakdown of a standard micro usb vs nooks for comparisons sake
A couple of things:
-The NC connector has a row of 12 pins, but does not have any pins that match with the "legacy" microusb pins. At least 4 of the signals on that connector duplicate the microusb pins (gnd, d+, d-, +5). IIRC there are two +5 pins on that row and three grounded pins.
-Hooking only +5 and gnd to the USB end of the stock cable causes the NC to charge at max current draw. I made a short USB interposer that does this. I suppose you could put some carefully applied tape over the middle pins if you wanted to try. Here are some measurements I did of various ways of powering the NC a while back:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9410625&postcount=243
mjf0000000 said:
Khaytsus: i stand corrected. Found the reference: barnes& noble 'book clubs' (ie forums) thread on "things that you should know about the NookCOLOR." A non nook color USB won't charge it when in a wall socket, but may keep the battery from at least going down.
Even a NC branded USB isn't officially expected to charge a NC, if plugged into a pc USB port. Neverrtheless, some say it trickle charges when left atrached to a computer all night (like 8hrs). In a wall socket it supposed to charge in 4 -5 hours.
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one interesting finding to note. Most USB wall adapters are 500mA. I happened to have a USB wall adapter that is 1A. With my 1A, I was able not only able to keep the battery from draining, but I was able to replenish it (although it was very slow) As a comparison, the USB adapter from B&N is capable of 2A.
I will try and get closer pics of the PCB when I get home from work. I just need to get better lighting than my dark home office.
Hello everybody, I read in a few post some time ago that if I have a 1000mah car charger and i solder something inside it, ti ahould make the phone read that I'M CONNECTED TO a wall charger instead of a car charger, so I can charge up to 1a...now I can't find any pictures or tutorial regarding this procedure, maybe somebody can help me?
Thank you
Basically data- & data+ pins need to be bridged together
pins 2 3 in diagram (4 pin female A)
You can also just mod a lead if you do not want to dissemble the car charger.
Mister B said:
Basically data- & data+ pins need to be bridged together
pins 2 3 in diagram (4 pin female A)
You can also just mod a lead if you do not want to dissemble the car charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you...what do you mean by: "You can also just mod a lead if you do not want to dissemble the car charger"
any pciture of a car charger modified?
thanks
materoprodutions said:
thank you...what do you mean by: "You can also just mod a lead if you do not want to dissemble the car charger"
any pciture of a car charger modified?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bridge cable data pins rather than charger pins is what I meant.
I prefer internal mod of charge units. Some charge units have data pins soldered into board some don't, easier on those with data pins left loose & you can bend them closer together & bridge them together with just solder or if gap too large a bridging wire or off-cut from a resistor leg or similar ...
i didn't feel confindent modifying the charger so I modified the cable joining the green and the white cable. After a while it worked showing "charging AC" insted of USB. thank you!!
Hi,
i bought used Nook HD with generic ac<>usb charger + generic usb cable.
And i notice that using that generic usb cable does not charge the device, and
only lights up to green led indicator [ and stay that way].
Searched forum found out that on original cable B&N there is somewhere set
resistor that make nook take charge.
I am ready to modify that generic usb cable when i know what exact thing
i need to do.
Thanks for the help.
I think you can just connect/short the two data wires.
twiztid_ said:
I think you can just connect/short the two data wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Showrted D+ and D- on the Nook HD side and didn't work.
Thanks.
Charging problem partially solved
I was able to get the nook to start the charger light on with a hardware modification.
I used two pull down resistors of 15k on D+ and D- lines of usb. This made the charging light go to red instead of green. Red indicates charging.
( Note : Later I found out that only one resistor on D+ to ground is sufficient to do slow charging. Finally i resorted to shorting D+ and D- and pull down with a 15k resistor )
This is the basic specification of USB host.
When i connected the nook to pc and powered on the pc , nook instantly started to charge with red led before os started. and during the pc boot there will definitely never be a
usb bus remuneration. This prompted me to put the pull down resistors.
I believe that there may be some other value resistor to be placed on d+ or d- line for the software to detect nook is charging as this are the only pins available in charger cable other than power pins.
But the software still does not recognizes the charging state. The software still says it is discharging the battery. But the battery is charging slowly.I still have to resolve the issue.
I am using a 3A charger with LM2577 chip based board adjusted to provide 5V @ 3A.
Any comments.
purenoise said:
Hi,
i bought used Nook HD with generic ac<>usb charger + generic usb cable.
And i notice that using that generic usb cable does not charge the device, and
only lights up to green led indicator [ and stay that way].
Searched forum found out that on original cable B&N there is somewhere set
resistor that make nook take charge.
I am ready to modify that generic usb cable when i know what exact thing
i need to do.
Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Assuming that the charger will charge other Android tablets and phones then the fault is in the cable. If not then the fault is in the charger and you could spend a while with resistors and what not, or you can buy a cheap Anker or other compatible charger that does the job properly.
If its is the cable at fault its usually really simple to fix the cable. If you look really closely at the 30-pin connector you'll see that some pins are shorter than others. The Data pins and Earth are ever so slightly longer than the charging power pin by a fraction of a mm. If that charging pin doesn't make good contact it won't charge the Nook.
Unlike the original B&N cables the generic cable casing isn't moulded to the cable's data pin carrier, and it has two slots in thye outer connector housing into which the pin carrier will sit. If the housing gets twisted slightly you can usually hear a creaking sound from the connector and if you are pushing it home at this point there is a very high chance of the pin carrier dropping back a tiny fraction. In this lower position the cable will only show a green light, never a charging light.
If you pop open the generic cables connector using the two lugs on its edge you will see the two ridges that I refer to on the inside of the moulding. To confirm that nothing else is broken you can now connect the pin carrier directly to the Nook and wait a few seconds for the lamp to light green, then drop to orange to indicate charging.
Now you know the cable is sound you can glue the pin carrier to the upper slot in the connector and it will never drop down again. Clip the connector housing together again and you should be good to go.
We have three original cables and 4 generic cables. All 4 of these have needed glueing into place due to them not charging the Nooks.
---------- Post added 6th March 2016 at 12:04 AM ---------- Previous post was 5th March 2016 at 11:59 PM ----------
mailads said:
I was able to get the nook to start the charger light on with a hardware modification.
I used two pull down resistors of 15k on D+ and D- lines of usb. This made the charging light go to red instead of green. Red indicates charging.
( Note : Later I found out that only one resistor on D+ to ground is sufficient to do slow charging. Finally i resorted to shorting D+ and D- and pull down with a 15k resistor )
This is the basic specification of USB host.
When i connected the nook to pc and powered on the pc , nook instantly started to charge with red led before os started. and during the pc boot there will definitely never be a
usb bus remuneration. This prompted me to put the pull down resistors.
I believe that there may be some other value resistor to be placed on d+ or d- line for the software to detect nook is charging as this are the only pins available in charger cable other than power pins.
But the software still does not recognizes the charging state. The software still says it is discharging the battery. But the battery is charging slowly.I still have to resolve the issue.
I am using a 3A charger with LM2577 chip based board adjusted to provide 5V @ 3A.
Any comments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've just noticed the last post. That charger just wasn't built for Android charging. Any charger that copes with a Samsung Galaxy Tab or a Nexus Tablet will charge the NookHD and NookHD+ with no need to resort to modifying the cable.
The Anker IO range works very well.
I suggest you use one of the compatible chargers and make life a bit easier.
simon-edwards said:
Assuming that the charger will charge other Android tablets and phones then the fault is in the cable. If not then the fault is in the charger and you could spend a while with resistors and what not, or you can buy a cheap Anker or other compatible charger that does the job properly.
If its is the cable at fault its usually really simple to fix the cable. If you look really closely at the 30-pin connector you'll see that some pins are shorter than others. The Data pins and Earth are ever so slightly longer than the charging power pin by a fraction of a mm. If that charging pin doesn't make good contact it won't charge the Nook.
Unlike the original B&N cables the generic cable casing isn't moulded to the cable's data pin carrier, and it has two slots in thye outer connector housing into which the pin carrier will sit. If the housing gets twisted slightly you can usually hear a creaking sound from the connector and if you are pushing it home at this point there is a very high chance of the pin carrier dropping back a tiny fraction. In this lower position the cable will only show a green light, never a charging light.
If you pop open the generic cables connector using the two lugs on its edge you will see the two ridges that I refer to on the inside of the moulding. To confirm that nothing else is broken you can now connect the pin carrier directly to the Nook and wait a few seconds for the lamp to light green, then drop to orange to indicate charging.
Now you know the cable is sound you can glue the pin carrier to the upper slot in the connector and it will never drop down again. Clip the connector housing together again and you should be good to go.
We have three original cables and 4 generic cables. All 4 of these have needed glueing into place due to them not charging the Nooks.
---------- Post added 6th March 2016 at 12:04 AM ---------- Previous post was 5th March 2016 at 11:59 PM ----------
I've just noticed the last post. That charger just wasn't built for Android charging. Any charger that copes with a Samsung Galaxy Tab or a Nexus Tablet will charge the NookHD and NookHD+ with no need to resort to modifying the cable.
The Anker IO range works very well.
I suggest you use one of the compatible chargers and make life a bit easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opened connector casing, and even removed metallic holder,
connected to the device - still just green.
Connector made solid, and nothing cracking.
mailads said:
I was able to get the nook to start the charger light on with a hardware modification.
I used two pull down resistors of 15k on D+ and D- lines of usb. This made the charging light go to red instead of green. Red indicates charging.
( Note : Later I found out that only one resistor on D+ to ground is sufficient to do slow charging. Finally i resorted to shorting D+ and D- and pull down with a 15k resistor )
Any comments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
can you point me to the pics/specs of that resistors,
would like to try, but
not sure how that resistors looks like.
Thanks.
I'm anticipating power outages here from Hurricane Irma. I'm throwing together a quick AA powered cell phone charger using a voltage regulator circuit. My question concerns the wiring of the type C connector. I cut a cable that came with my car cigarette lighter charger (charging only, no data). The guides I have read all say there should be red, black, green and white. The red and black are supposed to be the power. Mine only has red, green and white, with an outer shield braid. The shield is connected to the outer section of the type C connector. I can't find any information on this setup. I've considered using the red for positive and the braid for ground, but I would rather not ruin my phone if this is wrong (Nexus 5x). Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
There are three contacts within the C connector which I assume are the three wires, and the outer section as I mentioned connects to the braided shield. Thanks for any help, I would like a way to charge after the power goes out, and I have tons of AA batteries here.
Thank you!
Unless you can find the info somewhere, I guess the only way to find out how to connect the cables properly is to either open up the cable where it connects to the type C connector, or open up the cigarette lighter charger and see how the wires are connected there.
you could also just connect the car charger to 5 or so AA in series and power it that way. It would also help since it will likely have a fuse and regulate the output to the phone properly.
I appreciate the quick replies. I finally just took a gamble and it seems to be working as it should. I used an LM2596 Buck DC-DC Converter Step Down Module connected to 8 AA cells adjusted to 5v. Works like a charm so at least I should have some access to info after the power goes out. Thanks again!