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Will not charger of wall charger.

My 18 month old Tytn is not longer charger via the wall chager or car charge. But strangely it will charge is connected to the PC. I have tried a few different wall chargers including the original one and also test the wall charger on other charge by USB plug devices.
I have done a hard reset and also re-installed the stock rom.
Any other idea's ?

Same strange thing happens to me since 2 weeks.
No Charge with power adapter, tried different modells.
No Charge in car
But Charge via USB from PC . And Activesync works...
Any Idea would be very helpful.

tytn2user said:
My 18 month old Tytn is not longer charger via the wall chager or car charge. But strangely it will charge is connected to the PC. I have tried a few different wall chargers including the original one and also test the wall charger on other charge by USB plug devices.
I have done a hard reset and also re-installed the stock rom.
Any other idea's ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here, no fix, just dealing with it, hoping the charge by usb doesn't crap out.

A few months ago I receive a wallcharger from a friend who had a HTC TOUCH, as I inspected the voltage on my original TYTN II charger and the touch charger I figured out the touch charger would do the job, so I plugged in and for a brief moment the amber light go on, but almost inmediately it went of, so I guess it would not work with my phone.
But I rechecked the voltage and got me thinking what could be wrong, and after messing around a little bit with the charger and the usb plug I found out that for some reason if I plug the usb jack all the way down it doesn't make contact with the phone usb, so I have to plug it half way to make it contact and charge the phone.
Maybe that would be your case.
Good Luck.

in my situation the yellow loading light of the TytnII is even switching on when I connect the power charger . But even after being yellow=loading for a full night .
No Change in battery status
Freecall

My Tilt had a loose Mini-USB connector thing.
:S

OK. After reading people having the same problem I decided to pull mine down and take a look. Expecting to find a blown SM fuse on the circuit board. To my surprise I did not find any SM fuses in that area of the USB plug. While I had it apart I noticed some damage to the USB socket, viewable from the outside without having to pull it apart . I re-assembled the unit and VERY VERY carefully tweaked the damaged pin (pin 1 in my case) with the tiniest sewing needle I could find in the sewing kit. I bent the gold color wire back into a position matching the other 4 and pulled it into a wall charger and it started charging. So the problem in my case was a damaged pin 1 in the USB plug visible from the outside.
Charging is done by the two outside pins.
For the pinouts check out http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml Picture on the left hand side of the screen called MINI is the same as looking at the plug on the tytn from the outside.
While looking at the plug with a magnifier I could clearly see that pin 1 was collapsed into the plastic center part and would not be making contact with the USB charger when inserted.
I will need to take more care when inserting a USB plug from now on and reduce the amount of time I used the plug. I have been geocaching with my TytnII the last few weeks and it has resulted in a lot of plugging in each time when returning to the car. This practice will have to stop for me if I want to get more millage out of my tytnII.

Charging while navigating

What's the deal with the battery on this phone. It takes several hours (3-4) to go from (near) 0 to 100% charge, with USB.
And, when using navigation on the phone, with a car charger plugged in, the phone still loses a little bit of charge. All other phones I had, they would charge somewhat slowly with the GPS on (since GPS is using draining a lot), and never seen one that loses charge even while connected.
I have tried 2 different car chargers, both aftermarket though. Do you see the same?

hkk said:
What's the deal with the battery on this phone. It takes several hours (3-4) to go from (near) 0 to 100% charge, with USB.
And, when using navigation on the phone, with a car charger plugged in, the phone still loses a little bit of charge. All other phones I had, they would charge somewhat slowly with the GPS on (since GPS is using draining a lot), and never seen one that loses charge even while connected.
I have tried 2 different car chargers, both aftermarket though. Do you see the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of the car chargers only deliver 500mAh - when your phone is plugged in, go to settings-> about phone and see if it says AC or USB charging. You also need a car charger that is rated at more then 500 mA.
But even with a charger rated at more then 500mA - the phone still thinks it is plugged into USB. I got around this by modifying a USB cable - I connected the data lines together on the micro usb end and the phone thinks it has AC power and charging keeps up with GPS.
BTW I am using a 2 port car charger (2 1Amp USB ports) Griffin I think, but i tested with many others, and after other internet searching realized the wall charger shorts the data wires and we can mimic this on a car charger.

alphadog,
Thanks for the reply.
Can you give more details on how to connect the data lines together? And, no issues doing that?

hkk said:
alphadog,
Thanks for the reply.
Can you give more details on how to connect the data lines together? And, no issues doing that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No issues for me. First - use a decent USB cable. Also, see this thread for more info... one of my posts is page 2. Page one shows you an easier hack for testing - no cutting required.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=774665&highlight=battery
I took a USB cable and did all my work on the micro end - where the connector for the phone is. I stripped back some of the outer insulation, so i could work on the inner wires. I didn't cut the whole end off. The two wires that are not red and black are the data wires. I cut them, stripped them, and soldered them together. These 2 wires are from the micro plug end, so i created a loop back or connection of the 2 data wires at the plug end.
Phone
V+ Red wire -------------------------------USB Plug @ Car Charger
D+ ----------------| connect
D- ----------------| these 2 wires
V- Black wire ------------------------------ USB Plug

NookColor USB cable disected

Today I managed to get my NookColor cable caught in my car door while I was getting in my car to head to work. This mangled the cable up pretty good. After much swearing and a trip to Barnes and Nobles I purchased a replacement cable. With the new cable in hand I figured I might as well take the end apart on the broken one to see how it was wired up. Using a pocket knife I forced the joint where the two pieced of plastic are joined together apart. The end result is rather interesting.
The first image is of the top side of the connector. This is where the little LED is located. The second image is of the bottom side of the connector. The third is of the bottom side of the connector with the shield removed.
The interesting thing is that the connector does not actually have the four standard pads for connecting to the normal USB pins in the NC's socket. It only connects to the twelve extra pins at the back of the NC's socket. Two of those extra pins must be for the standard USB communications. At least two more are used for the power connection to the NC. That leaves eight unknown pins. One or two of which probably controls the LED on the cable. As soon as I can find my multimeter, I plan on doing a continuity check between the USB cable wires and the pins in the connector. Any other suggestions of things I should be looking for?

I read in passing that the deeper socket on the nc, that makes regular microUSB cables not charge the nc, relates to the extra contacts needed to charge the bigger battery more quickly. Will try to find the reference-

Regular cables DO charge... At 500mha, the stock rom does not she charging but it does around 10%/hr if idle.

There are certainly several ground pins which should be ready to find. finding those will help narrow it down.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA App

Khaytsus: i stand corrected. Found the reference: barnes& noble 'book clubs' (ie forums) thread on "things that you should know about the NookCOLOR." A non nook color USB won't charge it when in a wall socket, but may keep the battery from at least going down.
Even a NC branded USB isn't officially expected to charge a NC, if plugged into a pc USB port. Neverrtheless, some say it trickle charges when left atrached to a computer all night (like 8hrs). In a wall socket it supposed to charge in 4 -5 hours.
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.

The same thing happened with me too(my cable also broke, and i decided to experiment with it). Here's what i found out.
1. Three wires in the usb cables are solely meant for charging.
2. If only two (ground an one live) wires are connected, the stock cable charges nook like a ordinary usb cable(very slow).
3. The nooks usb cable tip had 3-4 more outputs which were not connected to any wires in the usb cable(they could be anything from mic input to video output).
I was trying to get more info on these extra outputs by soldering some wires to them but it needs very fine soldering, i couldn't achieve that and i broke mine entirely.
That reminds me can anyone send me a extra cable as am not in U.S(so B&N won't send me one) and am sick of waiting for 10 hours before i can play with my nook again.

mjf0000000 said:
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uummm... Don't think this is true as I charged my Nook just last night with it turned off.

I'm sure you have this, but for anyone else who would like to look at the standard USB pinouts.
While I'm on the topic, did the Nova disection help in determining the Nook end of the connections?

the last time i looked, Nova hadn't really looked that close at the USB...they were focusing on the wifi/BT chip.
very nice was planning on doing this myself one day soon...any chance you can go in a bit closer and get clearer pics of the traces on the pcb? Would really help to decipher it.

Interested to see a breakdown of a standard micro usb vs nooks for comparisons sake

A couple of things:
-The NC connector has a row of 12 pins, but does not have any pins that match with the "legacy" microusb pins. At least 4 of the signals on that connector duplicate the microusb pins (gnd, d+, d-, +5). IIRC there are two +5 pins on that row and three grounded pins.
-Hooking only +5 and gnd to the USB end of the stock cable causes the NC to charge at max current draw. I made a short USB interposer that does this. I suppose you could put some carefully applied tape over the middle pins if you wanted to try. Here are some measurements I did of various ways of powering the NC a while back:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9410625&postcount=243

mjf0000000 said:
Khaytsus: i stand corrected. Found the reference: barnes& noble 'book clubs' (ie forums) thread on "things that you should know about the NookCOLOR." A non nook color USB won't charge it when in a wall socket, but may keep the battery from at least going down.
Even a NC branded USB isn't officially expected to charge a NC, if plugged into a pc USB port. Neverrtheless, some say it trickle charges when left atrached to a computer all night (like 8hrs). In a wall socket it supposed to charge in 4 -5 hours.
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one interesting finding to note. Most USB wall adapters are 500mA. I happened to have a USB wall adapter that is 1A. With my 1A, I was able not only able to keep the battery from draining, but I was able to replenish it (although it was very slow) As a comparison, the USB adapter from B&N is capable of 2A.

I will try and get closer pics of the PCB when I get home from work. I just need to get better lighting than my dark home office.

usb cable defy+ different than normale ones

My defy+ cable has on the mirco side two metal pins on each side. Normale cables got only two metal pins on the wider side of the mirco side.
Do you follow me? I made picture below had to use * because spaces will disapere when posting
Defy+
**'***'**
----------
*\***/*
------
**'**'**
Normal
**'***'**
----------
*\***/*
------

Sorry, I don't understand you, but you can use standard microusb wires for data and charge with your Defy+ (I usually use a Samsung usb wire)

The cables i used on my htc Desire wont charge or are only use full for date transfer. When i trie to charge true my charger or car charger. It start charging and within a second i got a message that it is unconnectend and then connected again. And it loops.

taarmen said:
My defy+ cable has on the mirco side two metal pins on each side. Normale cables got only two metal pins on the wider side of the mirco side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those aren't "pins" in the sense of providing data signals or charging current. They are more like small springs designed to improve the mechanical retention of the micro USB plug in the socket. They don't make any difference to the electrical or electronic function of the USB cable, beyond reducing the risk of a poor physical connection, or a loss of physical connection if the handset is moved which charging/transferring data.
My Blackberry charger's micro USB plug doesn't have them , but the short USB to micro USB cable which came with my noise-cancelling headphones does - and the only function of that cable is to charge the battery in the headphones. I think you will find that there are a number of subtle mechanical variations of this kind between micro USB plugs from different manufacturers.

taarmen said:
The cables i used on my htc Desire wont charge or are only use full for date transfer. When i trie to charge true my charger or car charger. It start charging and within a second i got a message that it is unconnectend and then connected again. And it loops.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used with my Defy+ usb chargers and usb cables from Samsung Wave and Blackberry 8990 and all of these works property for charging and for data transfers.
Maybe your HTC usb cable don´t work propertly?

elTorres said:
Maybe your HTC usb cable don´t work propertly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Other possibilities are that the charger is faulty or providing a charge current which is slightly outside spec, or that there is a problem with the battery. I have seen problems caused by both of these kinds of fault (with third-party chargers and batteries) when using my Motorola USB cable.

Hurricane Irma Charger Hack Help Needed - Time Sensative

I'm anticipating power outages here from Hurricane Irma. I'm throwing together a quick AA powered cell phone charger using a voltage regulator circuit. My question concerns the wiring of the type C connector. I cut a cable that came with my car cigarette lighter charger (charging only, no data). The guides I have read all say there should be red, black, green and white. The red and black are supposed to be the power. Mine only has red, green and white, with an outer shield braid. The shield is connected to the outer section of the type C connector. I can't find any information on this setup. I've considered using the red for positive and the braid for ground, but I would rather not ruin my phone if this is wrong (Nexus 5x). Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
There are three contacts within the C connector which I assume are the three wires, and the outer section as I mentioned connects to the braided shield. Thanks for any help, I would like a way to charge after the power goes out, and I have tons of AA batteries here.
Thank you!

Unless you can find the info somewhere, I guess the only way to find out how to connect the cables properly is to either open up the cable where it connects to the type C connector, or open up the cigarette lighter charger and see how the wires are connected there.

you could also just connect the car charger to 5 or so AA in series and power it that way. It would also help since it will likely have a fuse and regulate the output to the phone properly.

I appreciate the quick replies. I finally just took a gamble and it seems to be working as it should. I used an LM2596 Buck DC-DC Converter Step Down Module connected to 8 AA cells adjusted to 5v. Works like a charm so at least I should have some access to info after the power goes out. Thanks again!