Like most people, I am using a FranklinCovey Binder (CL size), bought a FranklinCovey Universal PDA Clip holder for my previous PDA, but due to the size of Dopod U1000, it cant fix into the holder.
I can just put my U1000 inside the binder and zip it up, but it will knock against the metal rings .... which I would not like.
Since the U1000 have magnetic keyboard, been searching for a thin piece of metal, so I can put inside my binder, found some metal that is too soft to hold the keyboard and some metal hard enough but too thick and heavy.
Finally, found a metal ruler (USD$0.70), then use double side tape to stick inside my FranklinCovey plastic ruler (comes with the binder). It hold the keyboard very firmly (pic 1 & 2), then I can place my U1000 inside (pic 3) and zip it up without to worry that it will run about and hitting the metal rings.
Or you can use it to do presentation under NB view (pic 4)
BTW, I have also put in the VGA cable inside the pen holder so I can do presentation on LCD monitor or projector if needed
From the size of the U1000, I think you can use compact (CO) or classic (CL) which I am using
http://shopping.franklincovey.com/s...tion=push&crc=cat30007&navCount=12&id=prod207
Job Well Done!
johnnykok said:
Like most people, I am using a FranklinCovey Binder (CL size), bought a FranklinCovey Universal PDA Clip holder for my previous PDA, but due to the size of Dopod U1000, it cant fix into the holder.
I can just put my U1000 inside the binder and zip it up, but it will knock against the metal rings .... which I would not like.
Since the U1000 have magnetic keyboard, been searching for a thin piece of metal, so I can put inside my binder, found some metal that is too soft to hold the keyboard and some metal hard enough but too thick and heavy.
Finally, found a metal ruler (USD$0.70), then use double side tape to stick inside my FranklinCovey plastic ruler (comes with the binder). It hold the keyboard very firmly (pic 1 & 2), then I can place my U1000 inside (pic 3) and zip it up without to worry that it will run about and hitting the metal rings.
Or you can use it to do presentation under NB view (pic 4)
BTW, I have also put in the VGA cable inside the pen holder so I can do presentation on LCD monitor or projector if needed
From the size of the U1000, I think you can use compact (CO) or classic (CL) which I am using
http://shopping.franklincovey.com/s...tion=push&crc=cat30007&navCount=12&id=prod207
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ingenius and very useable from what I can see in the photos. Good job mate.
Related
never being happy with what is already made..i decided to modify my accesories so they fit my needs.
keyboard: took a chance on this one..wasn't sure if it worked with hd2 bluetooth stack but it worked right out of the box (press a button and connect it to the phone..that easy). and it's actually great..the keys are very clicky with good depth despite the really tiny size (as big as the hd2). it comes with an optional stand and a case. and btw..it's cheaper than other keyboards...around 50$ and it's designed in canada..actually made in china..but still..
the headphones..this project has already been done before..but i used the great headphones from my old omnia phone..really good fit..deep base..buttons and mic still work after i soldered the wires inside it
and for the case ..this was the biggest pain in the a..; this case made by melko protects really well the hd2 by covering all the edges without covering any part of the screen. however it has design flaw..i had to chop of the top of the back part..(see photos) so the "hook" that grips over the phone (there is no magnet etc) can go all the way back. if not..the front part of the case would stay a bit open..dumb.
the second modification is that i "transplanted" the the clip from an old cellet case to the back of the case (glued it under the leather and sewed it through the plastic of the case with a nylon double wire..extra safety..you know. and ofcourse i had to buy the new metal clip that works with any cellet case. only downside is that i removed the zagg shield from the back and side. total cost for the case and new clip..about 30$..plus a few good hours of work.
oh..and the case doubles as a reasonably solid stand
so what do you guys think?
one last pic
mikgangal said:
one last pic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is still big keyboard have a look here ..
http://www.chinavasion.com/product_info.php/pName/mini-bluetooth-keyboard-for-smartphones/
yup..u're right..it's smaller..but i don't see myself actually typing a text on that.
on the one i got..i can type with full speed
Wow. That keyboard is huge. I think I'd rather pull out my netbook...
wow all looks good to me!
how did u solder the headphones? i would like to try it too!
wow all looks good to me!
how did u solder the headphones? i would like to try it too!
actually this project has been done b4
in short..you pop open the buttons (with your nail). gently you pull out the circuit board from the case and you give yourself some loose. you clean up the white stuff around the connections..unsolder the old headphones and then clean up the extra solder so that you can see the holes.
IMPORTANT the wires of the headphones you wanna add have to be cleaned either with heat from the soldering iron or with aspirin works best i believe (put the wire over the aspirin..heat it up..and as it melts you 'wash' the wires in the aspirin really well..carefull not to inhale !)
this will help uncoat the wire from the protective plastic film. then just solder them to the circuit board...use some epoxy over the connections for extra strength..put everything back togather...and voila
Modify Leo HTC Headset to In-Ear Headphones
I picked up this color changing USB hub from Radio Shack for $5 and it has a storage area that fits an HD2 perfectly.
I can't post a link so just google "Radio shack color changing 4 port hub" and you'll find it.
After looking at the nice fit I thought it would be easy to put a usb cable in the bottom of the compartment, so I could use it as a docking/charging station.
It's only held together by one screw in the storage compartment and then a couple pieces of double stick tape, so it was easy to open up. After taking it apart I held the phone next to it and marked where the USB port on the phone was using the dry marker that came with it. It had to be placed in the front corner of the storage compartment because of the circuit board directly underneath that storage compartment.
After marking it out I used a dremel rotary tool to put a hole in it, but I think a drill bit would have worked just as well. Then I put the USB jack in the hole so that it stood about a half inch off the bottom of the storage compartment. I took a sharp knife and trimmed those ring like pieces of plastic on the back of the usb jack off so that it was possible to put a 90 degree bend in the cable to fit it in the hub. Then I also put a small hole in the back edge and ran the cable out and plugged it into the hub.
It fits well with the stock rubber cover on the phone, or no cover on your phone, but I don't think it would fit very well if your case was much bigger than the stock case.
The dry marker that comes with the hub doesn't fit in the hole any longer, and you can't reach the buttons on your phone, but the button problem could be fixed by having the jack stand 1" off the bottom instead of the 1/2" I used.
Great job!!
Cool! Could you please measure the opening dimensions? I'm wondering if my HD2 in Otterbox Defender might fit inside?
Nice, if only we could get them in Australia.
Thx outstanding mod/hack. On my way to rat shack today thanks to your brilliant idea
Sent from tin can with string.
Hi Guys,
I own original HTC Car Kit Cradle for HD2 (the amazing CU-S400). Up to now I used it in comapny car, mounted on front shield. Now I get a new company car with front shield more afare from driver than before. So mounting on front shield is not really doable because I have to stretch my arms always when using the phone.
With Car Kit Cradle there was a small pad with 3M glue on backside included for mounting on cockpit instead of front shield. Does any one knows, if i use this pad, is it residue-free removable? As you know, it is a company car and after 3 years I have to change it to a new one and have to give it back without any changes or adverse effects.
Thank you for hints!
pus push push
Try these:
http://tipnut.com/25-helpful-items-to-remove-sticky-adhesive-goo/
Thank you for hint how to remove glue remains. But! I actually do not have adhere it on car cockpit so I do not need cleaner
As I know there are glues outside which does not generate any remains after removing them. They are developed in special for mounting things in car cockpits.
And I want to know if HTC used such glue on there mounting plate before I adhere it on cockpit of new car.
Super push!
Just a few quick pics to show you an idea for a way of easily maxing a cheap OTG adapter more discreet. I'm not claiming its pretty but it works
Started with one of there for £1.90;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150758616053?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1480wt_1037
Slit the side of the soft black plastic cover. I found all the wires to be embedded on one side so made 1mm deep cuts on the other side allowing it to bend. Cover with material of your choice (I've not got that far). Add a simple velcro pad to your case and usb device of choice and attach in place.
Sorry the pic is an attachment. Haven't had chance to look for the upload rules/sites
Why not just get the ones that are a cable? They bend easier, and you can still velcro if you want it attached to the back.
http://www.amazon.com/T-Flash-Adapter-Samsung-GT-i9100-GT-N7000/dp/B005FUNYSA/ref=wl_mb_recs_1_dp
I have one but wanted something more compact.
so i was staring at this GameKlip accessory and thought, I could probably make one myself. They sell for about $20 including shipping online. Why not save some $ since I had the material.
What I used:
1 piece of 3" long and 1/8" thick stainless steel wire ( I got from a welding shop )
some shrink tubing from an electronics store, to protect the mounting points on the controller.
lighter or hair drier to shrink the tubing.
2 pairs of pliers to bend the wire
1 Sharpie marker to mark my bending points.
Playstation 3 Sixaxis wireless bluetooth joystick.
you can design as you see fit, but i started by bending the wire in half like a big V
bent the curved part 1/4" down @ 180 degrees. this is my anchor point for the joystick. this part goes right between the thumb sticks at the back.
from there i went underneath the joystick, making small bends to follow the contours of the controller.
NOTE: this is where you slide small pieces of shrink tubing over the wire at any point you don't want scratches on your joystick. Keep adding more as you progress, if you make too many sharp bends, you wont be able to slide the tubing around the bends.
anyways from the bottom to the front the wire goes, again following the V shape and spreading towards the L1 and R 1 buttons.
from there I bent the wires up, again following the contours and adding shrink tubing. Every time i needed a bend, i marked the wire with the Sharpie first and eyeballed it. the great thing is if you mess up, just bend the wire back and try again.
After going to the top front of the joystick, i made mounting bends like the first one. now with two single wire ends instead. (see photo) went backwards a tad and curved back 180 deg foward again.
i bent the remaining wire into a smallish platform then back to the joystick again, aiming for the USB charging port for my final brace to hold the weight of the phone.
I finished off by joining the two loose ends at the bottom of the joystick again with the shrink tubing. Both ends in one piece of tubing.
now i need a cheapo eBay TPU rubber case to permanently glue/double side tape to the mounting platform.
In all it took me about an hour.
you can use a thicker gauge of wire to make the whole assembly stiffer, but that would be too hard to bend and possible damage your controller when putting it on or removing. I had to remove it many times during the build to test my bend angles and fit.
oh and if you're not feeling the MacGuyver-ness, buy a real one here: http://buy.thegameklip.com/
reserved
More pics without joystick
Nice work
thanks
on second thought, thicker,copper wire would be doable too, as you can easily solder the pieces any way you want, and its malleable enough to bend easily.
I thought about Aluminum Wire but its too soft and likely to come loose and make your hands all black from the oxidation. It would be light though
I may just tack weld a small sheet of metal to the platform part so i can stick a case on easier.
Maybe just punch some small holes in the TPU case and zip tie it to the frame....
Can we get a pic with the phone attached?
mr mystery said:
Can we get a pic with the phone attached?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He said in the OP that he needs to get a cheap case so he can adhere it to the mount.
Nice craftsmanship ^_^
Sent from my Kangadore 64
mr mystery said:
Can we get a pic with the phone attached?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using an ultrathin 3mm case and double sided tape. I dont recommend this case for this job as its super hard to remove the phone from it.. A softer flexable TPU case is best.
Sorry for the bad photo, using my Nexus 7 for a camera blows.
The last 3 photos from my Note 1. Anyways the finished product. Enjoy.
What about modifing this car mount to clip in and out?
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Dakota0206 said:
What about modifing this car mount to clip in and out?
View attachment 1572530
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
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Click to collapse
looks good but likely cost way more than its worth. may as well just spend the $20 for an original one. you'd still have to make a clip on part and bond it to that mount.
Good job buddy. And here I am, thinking about spending the $25 bucks to get this item n' all.
See this one
Such wow, reviving a very old thread.
My next target controller will be the Dualshock 3.