Database Develop

Lanyard Hole Problem

Yes, this a serious post. Does anyone have any tips for getting anything attached using the lanyard holes of the Kaiser? I have tried string, thin twine, key rings, lobster type clips and I can't get anything to hook underneath the lanyard holes. It is getting really frustrating. I know someone must have some tips. Thanks.

i used a paper clip to fish out a wii remote strap

outphase said:
i used a paper clip to fish out a wii remote strap
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A paperclip is a good idea, thanks. I guess I could keep bending it with pliers to make it fit...

If you must use something metal, get some nylon-coated beading wire and some crimps, and make your own.
Mare

outphase said:
i used a paper clip to fish out a wii remote strap
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thats what i did with mine too lol i had a psp strap on it for a wile too.

I used a twist tie to push the string through, then tied the string to a heavy wrist strap and pulled in back through with the string.....
I like the end result, I wouldn't have put anything there for my tilt, until i saw the thickness on the string for the wrist strap, it just barely fits through the holes... So i feel fairly confident in it..... still gonna keep it in a belt holdster though

I put the string through as far as it will go, the use a safety pin/stick pin tip to kind of drag it though the rest of the way.

I used a needle threader, of course I took it off right away. Wearing the tilt could be a pain in the neck with the weight. But I just had to try it.

See, I'm weak in the force so my abilites are perfect for pulling the small string out.

trial and error, took me about 30 mins to get my tiny MicroSC reader keychain thing attached to it! Perseverance, and also dipping it in hot wax helped keep it in a "C" shape to allow it to curve round hope that helps

GilesTheAlmighty said:
trial and error, took me about 30 mins to get my tiny MicroSC reader keychain thing attached to it! Perseverance, and also dipping it in hot wax helped keep it in a "C" shape to allow it to curve round hope that helps
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Very crafty... Typically if I'm doing anything involving hot wax it relates more to nymphomania or pyromania...

I kow this is an old thread but I went looking for an answer..
I was trying to install a lanyard on a USB-C adapter but the tiny hole and normal lanyard thread for this type of device had me stimied. After fooling around for 30 minutes I stripped off a 2" strand of twisted copper from some 16 guage wire, folded it over the lanyard thread at the wire mindpoint, used needle nose pliers to pull both ends of the wire through and the lanyard thread came with it. Ended up doing 4 units in about 5 minutes. Hardest part was getting the copper wire separated from the lanyard thread. (Not that hard).

BEST case, keyboard, headphones (finally...)

never being happy with what is already made..i decided to modify my accesories so they fit my needs.
keyboard: took a chance on this one..wasn't sure if it worked with hd2 bluetooth stack but it worked right out of the box (press a button and connect it to the phone..that easy). and it's actually great..the keys are very clicky with good depth despite the really tiny size (as big as the hd2). it comes with an optional stand and a case. and btw..it's cheaper than other keyboards...around 50$ and it's designed in canada..actually made in china..but still..
the headphones..this project has already been done before..but i used the great headphones from my old omnia phone..really good fit..deep base..buttons and mic still work after i soldered the wires inside it
and for the case ..this was the biggest pain in the a..; this case made by melko protects really well the hd2 by covering all the edges without covering any part of the screen. however it has design flaw..i had to chop of the top of the back part..(see photos) so the "hook" that grips over the phone (there is no magnet etc) can go all the way back. if not..the front part of the case would stay a bit open..dumb.
the second modification is that i "transplanted" the the clip from an old cellet case to the back of the case (glued it under the leather and sewed it through the plastic of the case with a nylon double wire..extra safety..you know. and ofcourse i had to buy the new metal clip that works with any cellet case. only downside is that i removed the zagg shield from the back and side. total cost for the case and new clip..about 30$..plus a few good hours of work.
oh..and the case doubles as a reasonably solid stand
so what do you guys think?

one last pic

mikgangal said:
one last pic
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this is still big keyboard have a look here ..
http://www.chinavasion.com/product_info.php/pName/mini-bluetooth-keyboard-for-smartphones/

yup..u're right..it's smaller..but i don't see myself actually typing a text on that.
on the one i got..i can type with full speed

Wow. That keyboard is huge. I think I'd rather pull out my netbook...

wow all looks good to me!
how did u solder the headphones? i would like to try it too!

wow all looks good to me!
how did u solder the headphones? i would like to try it too!

actually this project has been done b4
in short..you pop open the buttons (with your nail). gently you pull out the circuit board from the case and you give yourself some loose. you clean up the white stuff around the connections..unsolder the old headphones and then clean up the extra solder so that you can see the holes.
IMPORTANT the wires of the headphones you wanna add have to be cleaned either with heat from the soldering iron or with aspirin works best i believe (put the wire over the aspirin..heat it up..and as it melts you 'wash' the wires in the aspirin really well..carefull not to inhale !)
this will help uncoat the wire from the protective plastic film. then just solder them to the circuit board...use some epoxy over the connections for extra strength..put everything back togather...and voila

Modify Leo HTC Headset to In-Ear Headphones

[Q] Whats your ideal case for the NC?

What is the ideal case for your Nook Color?
Is it one that is available or not?
What are some of the features you would like it to have?
Do you want a fold case that covers the screen?
Is the micro usb port in a convenient location?
Looking for some ideas. Working on a shell now for a mold. Not sure if anything will come of it but want to see what you all are looking for in a case. Feel free to post your thoughts. Thanks.

I would like to see a one sided hard cover that can protect the screen when not in use and snap onto the rear when in use. Probably use the typical four corner frame system you see in many cases so nothing is obstructed.
Also, have a stand "system" so that when it is snapped to the rear you can prop up the NC. Maybe something like what you see on back side of keyboards. And like some keyboards I've seen, have different levels of lift. One lift level that slightly raises the NC off the surface, for typing and such. Another lift level that is like the leg stand you see on the EVO 4G or Archos 70, for video/picture viewing and the like.
Heh. First post around here. Been meaning to chime in on a thread and this is the perfect one to start. Only because I've been looking for something I described but there is nothing out there yet.

I'm looking for an inexpensive silicone gel skin, something I'd keep on pretty much all the time. I'm also keeping my eyes open for sturdy travel case.
There seem to be choices out there for both, I'm just waiting a bit for more of them to hit ebay.

I missed your last question about the micro usb port. IMO its not in a good location because its awkward when trying to read while charging, particularly when reclining or lying down. I'm concerned about putting pressure on the usb cable, especially considering its not just a standard cheap cable. Not sure how a case will help this, though.

drp1 said:
I missed your last question about the micro usb port. IMO its not in a good location because its awkward when trying to read while charging, particularly when reclining or lying down. I'm concerned about putting pressure on the usb cable, especially considering its not just a standard cheap cable. Not sure how a case will help this, though.
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ill be trying out a few designs once the mold sets. i can add a ribbon cable in the case to move the USB port to the sides which I might try. trying to keep it thin but actually worth putting on.

techboydino said:
ill be trying out a few designs once the mold sets. i can add a ribbon cable in the case to move the USB port to the sides which I might try. trying to keep it thin but actually worth putting on.
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Are you designing desktop/multimedia cases as well? I would love additional speakers on the NC and also a magnetic swivel X mount stand for desktop use.

My ideal case is not available yet. It is an envelope-like case that will allow me to pull the Nook out and use it naked. Something in nice black leather.

Something similiar to the covers of the TI calculators, with a little more thought about aesthetics obviously.

A 90deg connector or adapter would be nice. Then run the cable through the corner loop thingie.
Cheers,
kev

bugeyed1 said:
A 90deg connector or adapter would be nice. Then run the cable through the corner loop thingie.
Cheers,
kev
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Good Idea, I may try that out.
Im not any sort of professional or anything, but I do have access to some pretty sweet resin's and molding equipment. Carbon fiber is the idea, but the glass mold and how I want to do the front part comes first. Ill keep the thread updated.

ideal nook case
looking for something very close to this case
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040VNRTG/ref=oss_product
just substituting the swivel belt clip for a kickstand
i like the idea of moving the usb jack to another spot but i think that would add alot of cost and effort to the case build

Rube Goldberg lives; or, is this even possible?
You asked for the ideal, here is mine. Not at all sure it is doable....
1. In the interest of keeping the total package as slim as possible, no back, unless it is necessary to support other features.
2. [Front] cover has a slot for a pad of paper and/or corner slots for index cards.
3. [Front] cover is hinged on the right (I'm right handed and I want to be able to write easily).
4. [Front] cover has a foldover flap to keep the paper or cards from contacting the screen when the cover is closed.
5. The cover can fold 180 degrees so that the cover lies flat against the back of the tablet.
6. The cover can support the Nook as an easel in landscape mode.
7. The cover can support the Nook as an easel in portrait mode - this might involve some sort of short extension legs or other support to raise the lower edge of the Nook an inch or so (and this might help with the need to plug in the USB connector at the bottom).
8. Bonus points for the ability to fold out a handle attached at the lower left corner when in portrait mode, sort of like a hand mirror.
9. And of course it should be strong, light, durable, elegant, and less than $40 US.
I'm ready to order as soon as I see the pictures of the finished product.

Thanks for the ideas everyone. Haven't worked on it in a few due to being out at CES. Unfortunately there were NO cases out there. Working with Speck to find something but tried everything else and could not even find a nice slip cover. Otterbox said they are testing designs so no real info there either.

My ideal case is something like
http://shop.brando.com/samsung-galaxy-tab-case-with-bluetooth-keyboard_p05269c0299d057.html
this.
Bluetooth keyboard case, waiting for bluetooth to work for NOOK!! and I could use it as a netbook and a tablet. IDEAL.

This is my cheap (free) case for my nook color. It’s the zippered case for my trucks instruction manual. The patch covers the ford symbol; if I need to hide it in plain sight I can pull the patch off and leave it in the back seat. It fits perfectly and there is a plastic divider on the inside I can put business cards and a small pad of paper (as others have asked). All I keep in it is a set of skullcandy headphones in an microfiber Oakley sunglass bag for cleaning the screen.
michael
-"I learned a very valuable lesson on my travels, Tucker. No matter how bad things might seem..."
-"They could be worse?"
-"Nope, no matter how bad they seem, they can't be any better, and they can't be any worse, because that's the way things fraking are, and you better get used to it Nancy. Quit yer *****ing."

Perfect case for the Nook Color
Before I bought my Nook, I had a Pandigital Novel that I bought on eBay.
In the same eBay search results page the Novel appeared on was a great case called BookArmor. Although it was $35, I bought it. And I haven't regretted it either.
The BookArmor case comes with a set of velcro-like pads that stick on the back of the tablet and allow it to be fixed to the case. The case itself is laminated steel and plastic covered with textured fabric. It zippers shut and the zipper sides are soft and stay out of the way when the case is opened. You have total access to all side buttons and ports. The inside surface that comes in contact with the screen is covered with a soft foam pad.
When I decided to get the Nook, I found out that the case I had for the Novel is the exact same case for the Nook Color. I really like this case and haven't even considered another one.
For more info go to extremeinkjet.com and click on BookArmor cases in the blue left-hand column. Pick any Delta 6 case ... there is a Nook Color one. Checkout their video at the bottom of the page.
It looks like this case is really popular too ... there aren't any left on eBay and the extremeinkjet site shows all out of stock for the Delta 6 case. Amazon shows one Delta 6 left for the Pandigital (same case) but it doesn't even show up for Nook Color.

I don't know if I'd call it perfect. But, I bought the B&N case with the vertical flap and ribbon with magnet on the end to hold it closed/open. It works well for me.
If they were available in store when I bought my nook, I would have also considered the silicone one. Although, if I went that route, I'd probably prefer the otter box version with the hard resin exterior an rubber liner. I would also have considered the black leather pouch one where you completely remove the nook to use it.
Alas, none of these were available to me when I made my purchase so I'm using what I have.
With either the otter box or the silicone I would gain a thinner form factor. But, I would never be able to completely cover the screen. With the pouch one, I would gain the thin form factor when using and would not add much when transporting. But, it's basically just a branded leather sleeve.
In the end, what drew me to the case that I bought was the vertical flap and ribboned magnet. 1 - with the horizontal flapped ones, the magnet does not flip around to hold the flap to the back of the case so it's open like a book with the flap dangling out the right side. 2 - with the vertical one that I got, you flip the cover over the top, move the magnet to the back to hold the cover in place and you have all your nooky goodness to go to town with!
Just my 2 cents.

jlh8733 said:
Something similiar to the covers of the TI calculators, with a little more thought about aesthetics obviously.
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Wow...love love love this idea.
This would be great..a hard protective slide case.
This would definitely be a $$$ maker.

I bought a "Industriell Cover in Storm" cover and it works perfectly, very simple, protects the screen, and it's small.

I'm stealing your "DON'T PANIC" sticker on the back idea. thanks for reminding me.

I've become one of the Angry Birds because of the poor quality of NC's USB Cables.

I know this post is quite useless. I just wanted to vent out my frustration.
I just got off the phone with a B&N rep after 20 minutes of talking--because the rep kept beating around the bush and kept placing me on hold--and was told that I needed to callback on Monday to get the tracking no. for my 2nd--yup, this happened twice before--USB cable replacement. Yup, it broke again like the first one I got included with the NC--SIMPLY BECAUSE OF IT'S POOR QUALITY.
In generic micro USB cables, you would notice that most of them are made of rubber material, especially the one covering the tiny metal tip that you insert on the device's USB port, which makes them quite durable. Even if you bend it intentionally multiple times, the metal tip will not be affected that much. Only downside is, it doesn't fast charge the NC. In my experience, it takes a day and a half (about 36 hours) to be able to charge the NC fully. And yup, my NC is now turned off for a week (and counting).
The NC's stock USB cable however is made out of a gloss plastic material, probably to give way to the LED? light indicator? Downside is, it gets cracked/chipped off easily whether it was done unintentionally or not, because of the plastic material not being 'hard' enough, and that's where most NC owners like me are getting pissed off.
You have to be very careful whenever you charge the NC--you need to make sure that it's on a flat surface, not on a surface where it can sink itself say for example, a foam bed, so that the cable will not 'sink' with it in and put pressure on the metal tip, finally chipping off the plastic coating.
Do you guys know of any alternative that can fast-charge the NC like it's stock USB cable? Does anyone have the ability to modify the NC's stock USB cable to coat it with rubber or something to make it more durable?
I'm sure there are others who are experiencing these things. Hope we can gather around and start a discussion about getting a permanent fix. Maybe rally at a local B&N store or something, I dunno.

Well, a cheap and quick bit would be to wrap it with electrical tape. If you have an electronics store or Radio shack carrying it, there is also something called shrink tubing. this is a rubberish tube that when carefully heated with a heat gun (not a blow dryer) or a lighter, will shrink down around wires, or plastic.
But, I am rather annoyed with this serious design flaw as well. Would be nice if B&N either recalled these cables with a properly designed one, or get a 3rd party available to handle that.

I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.

epoxy putty usually cures to something a bit too brittle for what this really needs. As the OP said, the plastic on the plugs are really way too brittle for what it's meant for. other than those things, the other option I can think of is some of that latex dip sold in some hardware stores, or sex shops. wrap the metal bit in tape, then give it a few dips, let it cure, then carefully cut the tape off. instant rubberized plug. could even carefully cut an indicator window for the charge light.

heat shrink tubing sounds best. will try that. you can get it from home depot or lowes. get the multiple size package. it is really best to use a heat gun. if you dont know what your doing and use a lighter you will burn right through the heat shrink.

It sounds like you might be looking for Sugru. It hardens to a rubbery flexible consistency. There's also a how to floating around the web on making your own using caulk and ...baking soda? I think?
For that matter, a flexible clear caulk might do the trick.

I was thinking that RTV silicone (downside is long cure time) or maybe hot melt glue would be worth a try. Either one would be translucent enough to see the LED color. The Sugru looks interesting, although opaque like heat shrink tubing.

You could probably use something like Scotch Coat (more or less liquid electrical tape..) or plasti-dip perhaps?
*I'm still waiting on my NC to arrive. So, I'm not sure exactly which portion of the connector you're talking about. If it's the entire outside portion that is typically metal... this is normally a chasis ground which equalizes the chasis potential between the NC and whatever it's plugged into..., and really shouldn't be coated with anything

I ordered this off Amazon with the intent of fixing several things in my house. I was going to use the clear for the tip of the charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JIEPU

I think the shame of it is that all they had to do was use a strain relief sleeve like one of there:

Using the shrink tubing-
1. make sure you get a size large enough to get around the connection end.
2. Measure out a length. you want at least from the bottom of the N light to about 1/2 inch past the nub where the cord goes into the connector.
3. Slip the tube into place
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, carefully shrink the tube into place (NOTE: with a lighter, keep the flame moving, don't let it linger too long or you'll melt something)
5. If the resulting reinforcement doesn't seem enough, feel free to add another layer or 2.
WHAT DOES THIS ACCOMPLISH?
Well, most of the failure pictures I have seen, as well as the failed cord of my own, it seems the plastic is too friable (meaning it cracks really easy) to handle the stresses put on it at that end. Most of the cracks and fractures take place below the N, towards the cable side of the connection.
By adding this, it not only adds a semi flexible reinforcement around where it likes to crack up, it also stiffens and immobilizes a stretch of the cable, relieving a little of the stress that can happen in that part.
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.

Srilania said:
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
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Heat shrink tubing isn't a bad idea. I don't know how readily available it is in consumer stores and stuff... but I know I've used the Heat shrink tubing with the glue inside on quite a few connectors (higher end coaxial/heliax connectors tend to come with it). It's a bit thicker and more durable than typical heat shrink tubing, and the glue holds it solidly in place.

I used scotch tape. ugly, but it works.

Heat Shrink tubing shouldn't be too hard to find, most any electrical / hardware store should carry it, even Wal-mart will have it from time to time in the automotive section.

A better option may be plastidip. It gives a thick rubnery coating.
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk

After having a Nook Color for less than 6 months, mine just broke this morning! I would do without the LED indicator for a durable rubber casing.

Imbroglio said:
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
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Epoxy works very well actually, but you need to put it on the inside, not the outside. Split open the plastic cover. Clean it up so it fits back together cleanly. Mix up a batch of translucent 5 Minute epoxy and completely fill the cavity with epoxy. Fit it back around the cable and secure it with a clip or clamp of your choice. A small binder clip works perfectly. After about 5 or ten minutes you can remove the clip and use an exacto knife to clean up the excess. Clamp it up again and
let it cure for 12 hours or so. Works well for me.

Triple wall heat shrink is just what you need. A heat gun (not a lighter, it won't work well) is the way to go. A hair dryer most likely won't have the heat needed.
I use the stuff in my home business and have tons of it...if you need some let me know!

I bent the male end that plugs into the nook unit... I Pressed the male end against a counter in my kitchen so it was bent back into place, put a few spots of super glue (the kind you get at the dollar store) and waited overnight for it to dry. good as new, no more wiggle or bend in my usb end.

My semi DIY car mount.

So lately I've been trying to figure out a way to get my tablet mounted at the optimum position for GPS usage without obstructing anything. In my van I have the Arkon seat bolt tablet mount, which is perfect because it keeps the tablet lower in the dash area so it's not blocking my view or baking in the sun, and it's also a solid mount point. I'd have no where else to mount it in the van aside from the window if it wasn't for this mount, and I absolutely don't like window mounting anything bigger than a cell phone. So in that instance, things work out great. Recently I put that Arkon mount in my car, which is a Hyundai Elantra. I thought since the distance from the seat bolt to the mount area would be less, I'd have more (if anything, too much) "neck" to work with. It turned out to be the opposite. My Elantra is stick shift, so when I had the tablet mounted in the most convenient spot that reached, I was all but punching the screen when I went to 3rd/5th gear. The only other alternative was to have it sitting over in the passenger area, which works for me but it adds as a huge inconvenience to any passengers in that seat since their left knee is where the tablet is. As a result I decided to put the Arkon seat bolt mount back in the van and work on something else for the car.
I have an empty space under my head unit for random storage, etc. I began to wonder if I could somehow utilize that space for incorporating a mount there. It would be the perfect height because it's higher up from the gear shift and it would definitely be optimum viewing for GPS usage. Originally I made the perfectly sized wooden block that had a slight slight slope to it so it would wedge itself in place. I then epoxy'd a BluRex Amazon case to it that I wasn't too happy with and was no longer using. This proved to be an awesome 10 minute mount, but it also gave me zero adjustability. I began to think was going to be important since last time we were on a road trip when the road I was on was going to be 3 hours long my wife watched a movie, so I knew I'd want a way to move it around for best viewing in multiple scenarios.
Here's two pictures from that build:
http://i.imgur.com/dsfQx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/guw86.jpg
I began to give it more thought. I knew that the empty space under my head unit was going to be the mount point, but I just had to figure out how. I searched through multiple mounts, particularly from Arkon. In the end I bought this mount on eBay for about 20 bucks. It came with a suction cup which I knew wouldn't work for my uses. My plan was to cut the arm off, drill a hole into a wooden block, then fill it with epoxy and shove the arm in. The block of wood in question would be a piece that I cut to perfectly fit the open slot under my deck with a slight slant to it, that way as I pushed it in, it wedged itself in place (much like the last mount)
When I got this mount from eBay I began to wonder if I even needed to cut the arm off. Fortunately the height of the suction cup base was ALMOST the height of the opening in my dash. I figured all I had to do was wedge that in place and I wouldn't have to do the whole sha-bang with the wooden block and epoxy. I ended up cutting off the suction cup since it was useless in my case. The bottom of the plastic suction cup area had some flat ridges, so I figured I'd use double sided tape instead of epoxy to adhere it to a flat piece of wood. The flat piece of wood was to bump the thickness up just enough to replace the need for that wooden wedge.
http://i.imgur.com/yHOLR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/l9mRO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/O4Gin.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KFJad.jpg
In the last picture you can see that I flipped things around. Originally I had the arm facing downward, but when I had the tablet mounted, 5th gear was still a problem as the gear shift would nearly hit the tablet. I knew if I flipped it upside down the arm would be facing upward, giving me some height... so I re-did the tape and put it on the other side. Since I mounted it more to the right (to ensure there was a super low chance of the steering wheel ever obstructing view, even if I was leaning far to the left while driving) I sensed a small amount of uneven stability since there was nothing keeping the left side tight against the roof of the opening. A small wooden wedge later and we were golden.
http://i.imgur.com/t7v4P.jpg
I ended up painting that wooden piece black to blend it in a little bit. I also noticed while driving that some roads had a degree of ripple to them, which would cause the tablet to sway back and forth. It didn't obstruct my view-ability of the screen at all, but if I was in an area where the tablet was casting a glare from the screen it became more obvious. On a hunch I pulled out two quarters and slid them under the arm mount, which is where I thought I was seeing a degree of flexing. Surprisingly it helped quite a bit and that area no longer has any flex. Not bad.
http://i.imgur.com/gzcV0.jpg
Final product:
http://i.imgur.com/LoUZT.jpg
Hopefully those of you out there who are finding some tablet mounts are *almost* perfect but not a home run can utilize some sort of DIY ideas like I did to make it work. I now have a solid mount for both vehicles, so no more worries about where the tablet will sit, etc. No complaints there. :good:

Great mod! I too have a compartment like that when I replaced my factory double din to a single din radio. To compensate, I had to put in a CD holder type opening, much like your area. I just have slots for CD cases. In my case, it wouldn't work out too well because my opening is held by epoxy and because of the texas heat, loses it's adhesiveness big time and alas, too weak for N7.
I have since bought a Kropsson Aero, which can hold both my tablet and Sensation. I do wish someone made a mount that can fit like the Aero can. Oh well, sorry to detract, just wanted to give you some kudos in getting a mount that works for you! :good:

I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?

JaSauders said:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
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I just got the Aero in actually. It doesn't fit the N7 with my Seidio Case installed. So it's a fail on my end. It fits my Sensation fine, but thats a given lol.
As for the surface areas, I think you are correct that maybe the surface I am trying to apoxy to (on the car) does not play well/adhere with the epoxy I put on. No biggie though. I wanted something off the dash anyways. I may just get the exogear/kropsson mounts eventually...
EDIT: semi DIY modding LOL...
Just getting back, regarding the Kropsson Aero. Because of the Seidio case making the N7 bigger than expected to fit in the Kropsson Aero, I decided to cut down the foam pads on the sides. Now the N7 fits! The said arms are maxed out, but I will try it in the car after work. I took pics, but my work computer is borking at the card reader. But I'll try to upload them at home if I have time ( I have a 4 yr old to contend with lol).

I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.

I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10

xxgoosexx said:
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
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I have that same disk that came with my tomtom gps that I never used. But it works! I have it installed and holds the arkon mount fine without issues.

ydoucare said:
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
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Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:

JaSauders said:
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
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I don't, I'll try to grab one and post it here.