Database Develop

Busted screen replaced, still not working

My dumb butt child was sucking on my phone a couple weeks ago and caused the LCD to short out or something. The phone still worked and if I used a bright light I could shine it onto the screen and barely make out what was on the screen. It was booting properly and I assume that if I could make out the menu options the phone would still function. I assumed that she shorted out the LCD so I ordered, received and replaced the LCD tonight. Apparently this was not the problem, sucks to be me. I do think there was a problem with the touch screen portion already which is now working properly again but still I can still not see the screen for crap. It's like the brightness setting is on 1 or something. If I use a flashlight I can make out the screen, use the stylus and operate the phone. When I was replacing the LCD I noticed that the two circuit boards to the north and south of the LCD seemed to have a bit of corrosion on some of the tiny chips. I used an alcohol swab to clean the area off but that didn't make a difference. I am utterly convinced that the motherboard is fine since it seems to be well protected in the case and not easily accessible to moisture. I see no signs of corrosion on the motherboard like I do the two circuit boards around the LCD area. I noticed that there are only two contacts on the LCD one of which is a cable that plugs into the south circuit board just underneath the front panel key pad. Just to the right of that cable connection is where I saw signs of corrosion so I wonder if that board is the problem.
The computer tech in me says that I could be swapping parts all night before I get this right. Since the LCD plugs into that board, that could be the problem, there is a ribbon cable that wraps around the back of the LCD which also seems to make contact with the LCD which could also be the problem, that ribbon cable plugs into the north circuit board, so that might be a problem and finally, the ribbon cable plugs into the main board so that too might end up being a problem.
Can anyone take a guess as to why I might be seeing such low contrast/brightness from the LCD? I have already adjusted the brightness setting in the menus. I think it was called the backlight setting, but I moved them to the far right with no change. Again, this is a near pitch black screen that is only visible when I shine a light onto the screen.

i haven't taken my tilt apart but as a computer tech repairing broken laptops etc i know your problem.
as for laptops, there is a little inverter card that powers the backlight. its connected to the display unit by 2 cables (same as with my digital camera, rip ) and this boards are really weak / vulnerable to moisture...
so most likely this board is damaged...

That sort of explains what I think is going on too. Take a look at this cable (apparently it's clickable and will grow slightly in size to give more detail):
Let me explain the cable. This fits directly behind the LCD. The LCD comes with one flat ribbon cable and it plugs into a port on the right side of this picture. On that right circuit board if you notice the top left portion of the board there is thin black slot which is where the LCD plugs into if I recall correctly. There is another cable that plugs in just to the right of that jack from where I forget actually, lol. Once that cable is flipped over the bottom keypad on the phone sits right on top of that board. In fact on the other side you can even see the contacts for the outside buttons. The buttons in question would be like the green phone and red phone, the "e" shortcut and pretty much all the silver external shortcut buttons. Getting back to the cable, you will notice that in the middle of the cable there is a rather wide connection and that is the one that plugs onto the motherboard.
When I was replacing the LCD I spotted two sources of corrosion on both boards. The more plausible culprit was about 1/8 of an inch away from where the LCD plugs into the right circuit board.
I sent HTC an email seeing if they would help to which they told me to send it in. I have no intentions of doing that. I already know how to disassemble and reassemble the phone at this point and I already have 35 dollars invested into a new LCD. I am not about to spend 250 bucks to have HTC take 3 weeks to replace that cable. After some searching last night though, I have no idea where to get the cable. It seems that all the normal parts places on the web want 90 bucks for this cable, but at the same time they want 120 for the LCD. Obviously prices have dropped some because I was able to get the LCD new from ebay for 35. I just need help finding a place that will sell me that cable at a reasonable price.
Now that you have looked at the cable and that board, do you think it's possible that the right board could be the back light inverter that you were mentioning? If that's truly the correct board then it would make since that there is something wrong with it since I saw signs of possible damage and the LCD does work, just not strong enough to be seen with the naked eye. Since these things tend to work much like laptops do, I am leaning towards the possibility that you totally know what your talking about and that it would make since that this is the faulty part.
One other thought, the backlight is the piece that increases the brightness of the LCD right and not just some sort of overhead flashlight or something, correct? The term backlight almost implies a different part but I am pretty sure it's the term used to describe the brightness of the LCD in this case. I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page here.
Any additional thoughts?
Thanks

okay, to be clear about this. i am not 100% sure, if the backlight on the kaiser works the same way as the one on my IBM Thinkpad T41.
tl;dr; i don't know if the kaiser actually has an inverter board.
as for the cable: if you found a bit corrosion on both boards, i'm pretty sure that the reason why your backlight doesn't work.
about the last part: yeah, with "backlight" i mean the unit sits behind digitizer and LCD and increases the brightness of the lcd so you are able to read everything on the screen. i don't mean an overhead flashlight
btw, i just found this one
http://www.cellulardr.com/50H10051-41M-XC.htm
selling the cable / boards or about 90$
<edit>
disregard that... i noticed that the boards allways come with that cable assembly.... and cost about 90$ everywhere... will keep an eye on that.
</edit>

I'm going through the same thing. Did you ever replace that piece? Please let me know because it sucks to not use this phone.

screen problem, most of the time do not work

Hi, i think i have problem with my screen, it's not work anymore, so I decided to reflash device with official Rom. But it didn't work.
Moreover before windows system start for the first time ir requires to tap on screen to boot. So now I cannot use my TytnII at all.
Is it any options to boot it without tapping on screen?
Or just to flash with other ROM, but HARdspl is not installed so a bit afraid to brick my phone. please help

hurdleman said:
Hi, i think i have problem with my screen, it's not work anymore, so I decided to reflash device with official Rom. But it didn't work.
Moreover before windows system start for the first time ir requires to tap on screen to boot. So now I cannot use my TytnII at all.
Is it any options to boot it without tapping on screen?
Or just to flash with other ROM, but HARdspl is not installed so a bit afraid to brick my phone. please help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
install hardspl (same procedure as flashing) and then install rom of your choise if it dosn't work have you done any of the following
dropped it in water
gone in the washing machine
etc.... stuff like that

why don't you get a new digitizer??? it's $10 for kaiser?? i've been changing them like underwear...every half a year.
what is it, what's asking you to click on screen? if it's just a welcome screen, put welcome.not file in root.

papo said:
why don't you get a new digitizer??? it's $10 for kaiser?? i've been changing them like underwear...every half a year.
what is it, what's asking you to click on screen? if it's just a welcome screen, put welcome.not file in root.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hehehe funny expression 'changing them like [email protected]
what do you only change your underwear 2 a year

hehe, i live in Lithuania, so price with shipping will be around 25$. I think this isn't very cheap. Finally got screen working, but after 30min of using again no respond to tapping, then again working fine, and after that again no. it's annoying. I think it's problem with digitizer? I haven't it dropped to water, it almost brand new

hurdleman said:
hehe, i live in Lithuania, so price with shipping will be around 25$. I think this isn't very cheap. Finally got screen working, but after 30min of using again no respond to tapping, then again working fine, and after that again no. it's annoying. I think it's problem with digitizer? I haven't it dropped to water, it almost brand new
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats good you got it working
hope the problem doesn't happen again

if we assume the problem is harware, it would most likely by at one of two spots.
place, where the ribbon cable is soldered to lcd
or place where two piecies of digitiizer are connnected to each other.
might help if you check on the ribbon and glue a plastic tape all around the edge of digitizer, making it press little bit more on it
well, if that's hw probllem. but first you shoud try different rom. you can reflash without digitizer working. and check for pocket controller or similar if you want you can control pda from pc with it. there are two free and Pocket contr is trial.

if you just want to bypass the "tap here to use your device" message on the first boot up, search for "welcome.not".
create a blank file named "welcome.not" and place it in the root of your sd card and then power on the device for first boot up.
make sure it is a blank file. make sure it is named EXACTLY "welcome.not". if you are doing this with your windows pc, make sure you have turned off "hide file extensions of known file types". otherwise, the file might actually be named "welcome.not.txt" but might show as "welcome.not" on your pc.
search about it for more information.

hi, have tried differnt rom, but problem still persist. screen is not working, but sometimes it starts working very well. but most of the time it not respond. when backlight goes out and touch screen it starts to light but can't touch any options on. So what can be the problem, only digitezer or whole screen?

it was more probable it would be hw. but we need to eliminate all possibilities and reflash was easiest.
Still there is more things which could be the problem.
And there is no way to tell for sure what is it.
Did you say the pda is new? or digitizer?
And then you said when backlight goes off, digitizer will stop working, but still reacting on touch (to light the backlight) Is this right?
When will it stop / start working? Does it change if you press on body - case?
Does it change if you slide keyboard out or in?
There would be a short test each time pda/screen is powered, if digitizer fails in this test, it would be ignored till next test pass. Could this be your case?
digitizer could be broken on corner, or has bad contact inside
- You can test it, if you'll solder test wires on it and measure resistance, which should be around 500 ohms without touch and going down on each touch, can't go higher! test for both H & V
but the same reaction could be if ribbon cable connecting two parts of kaiser is broken (or connector on mobo side)
but if it's new it shouldn't.
and at last there could be problem on mobo. inside the controller chip or on it's connection, soldering. But not very probable.
It definitely looks like bad connection somewhere. You need to find out where, so you'll not buy digitizer if it's good or ribbon cable.
Put plastic tape around digitizer inside, as I wrote before, inspect ribbon cable and digitizer and it's connections. Try to locate event when it goes wrong.
If you'll not open it and check on these things, then maybe get a new part which will show bad, then I don't see how more we could help you.
You can use it without touch screen somehow or get a new phone.
Digitizer is US$8 with shipping to Lithuania. That's really cheap, even for us from central european countries.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HTC-P4450-Ka...m&pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item5192adf317#shId
and ribbon cable have fair price too,
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Flex-Cable-R...ewItem&pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3cadad06a3

papo very informative
All i want to add is that it's easier to replace the whole screen with a digitizer already on as the digitizer is very hard to remove since glued to the glass more than likely will get wrecked and not able to replace new, whereas full kit wont cost a lot more and will be less stress just 4 screws on the back plate of Tilt "where sim door is".

Well, it is not new, i've bought it from one girl, but it's like brand new, no scratching at all, very good condition.
also, yesterday i checked all the connection inside it, but the problem persisted.
I think I have understood what kind off problem it is...when remove sim card it stars to work perfectly. When insert sim, it work some time very well. Then again screen start not to respond, any ideas?

hurdleman said:
Well, it is not new, i've bought it from one girl, but it's like brand new, no scratching at all, very good condition.
also, yesterday i checked all the connection inside it, but the problem persisted.
I think I have understood what kind off problem it is...when remove sim card it stars to work perfectly. When insert sim, it work some time very well. Then again screen start not to respond, any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mm, I know some pretty good spells, but you need a magic wand to make them work. If you don't have any you need to:
tape the screen as I wrote before (half millimeter tape),
if no help, hardwire analog multimeter on digitizer and test it properly (while pda off and open) as I wrote before
tape bended paper across connector on mobo.
OR just get a new digitizer straight away. it's $8 and pretty good chance that it's the issue. it's maybe 50% chance but what I mean is:
You have $200 phone (now on market) let's assign it 200 points
It's working on 20% with digitizer broken, now you have 40 points
digitizer 8 points to add. With 50% chance to fix = 16 points to add
result: by adding 16 points you gain 160 (200 - 40) that's 10x gain = good risk

WTF with my screen? post photos. on the first my screen, on the second lcd screens which are beiing sold on ebay.
I decided to buy new digitizer, but when looked at my screen, it realized have completely different layout where digitizer is connecting to screen. Am i right? Is the digitizers which are sold on ebay will suit my screen?

that's fine. they all work. They are not oem but works well. Maybe not so scratch resistive.
You may get the digitizer solo, but they will not include a special double side tape which goes around and is holding it together. You can make that tape, but it's pain as stylez said. A lot of cleaning the used old one, then cutting small strips of ds-tape. and you need to put a paper or something in between two layers of tape as you need a little space in between. And then soldering that ribbon. Better just get whole assembly.
==
I see you tried that tape, before you buy it, try the last thing. The place where digitizer is soldered to lcd modul.
On that piece you sent photo of, you need to open back cover.
check the picture:
1. peel off antistatic tape from connector, from up -> down
2. take cover off
3. there will be attachment of digitizer behind the cover, like on your second picture.
Check for good connection
AND
check if soldered pins could not be touching the back cover you took off
( i had this problem once)
put electric tape accross it a give it a try - that will isolate it from back cover & make a little pressure if bad connection
=

Dead Diamond - Flat cable ripped - what now?

Ok, my fault. While repairing I ripped the black flat cable that goes from the main board to the top board (there the cam and vibrator is located).
I can't simply change the cable since it's heat glued to the top board (on the mainboard it has a locked connector).
Any suggestion from the repair specialists here? I guess I have to replace the whole top module, that includes the cable.
Any idea where I can get one? Or is it possible the replace just that cable? Seems very difficult though (and I work in electronics)
Note: see the pix, there is a hairline crack on one side near the connector (center in the pix). It's completely open there.

Update:
There is now way one can replace just the flex cable coz it's heat sealed onto the top PCB. Only thing one can do is to replace the complete top PCB.
After some searching I found this interesting Taobao link:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=4686372956&is_b=1
That's the PCB I want! RMB98 is US$ 15.00 or so. However, I don't want to waste any money on stuff that doesn't work.
So I went to the "phone mall" in Shenzhen (Hua Quan Lu, near Saige). There were at least 10 shops with that module for my phone. I got one for RMB 90 and assembled my phone right away there.
After some fine tuning it worked. However, my phone has still the LCD digitizer problem and often (but not always) recognizes any touch only as a touch to the right side.
Another problem is that the G-sensor works only right-left axis and not up-down.
Since the digitizer change is quite difficult (even though the digitizer itself costs only $3 in China) I may just leave it like that. I bought already an HD2 anyway.

[Q] Help! Screen off with open qwerty!

Hi guys, I've this terrible problem: when I open the qwerty, the screen just turns off. The touch works, and also the x1. It's like there's no video signal, as if I removed the VGA cable from the video card of my PC. It's a software or hardware issue? thanks in advance guys, you rock. I hope you can help me!

xtype23 said:
Hi guys, I've this terrible problem: when I open the qwerty, the screen just turns off. The touch works, and also the x1. It's like there's no video signal, as if I removed the VGA cable from the video card of my PC. It's a software or hardware issue? thanks in advance guys, you rock. I hope you can help me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? This has been said so many times before.
It's the ribbon / flex cable. It fails over time. You need to replace it. I've had to do it myself too. They sell them on eBay.

Thank you, I apologize for not having used the search button before what about the warranty? If I go to a SE center, they will repair my X1 for free or not?

yes i think the problem is flexible cable

If you can't order via ebay (I mean not everyone is having credit card beside the price is pricey for an old phone), you can try what I have practiced...
This is credited to Russell.Eclair (from russelleclair.blogspot.com but his blog is closed right now, here is some important information I archieved) so if you want to thank, just thank to him.
Manipulating your XPERIA X1's broken flex cable.
Sony Ericsson XPERIA X1 is manufactured by HTC. Since HTC is an advance company that produced PDA-Phone and its classes, some speculation about HTC hidden plan show up when Sony Ericsson XPERIA X1 shows many problems; broken housing, terrible signal reception and unacceptable high price device. One of its other problem is flex cable. Once it is broken, it will start from giving unresponsive touchscreen till blackout screen while slider is out. Leaving the speculation, the problem actually can be prevented and cured...
See my tutorial about dissambly your X1 (you can try to look for in youtube)
- You can stop when the front and rear compartment being separated.
First method "Tape Patching", (not working with me)
- You can also apply this method as a prophylaxis, prevent this problem while you like using the XPERIA X1 keyboard.
- As easy as ABC, just put insulator tape on the scratch side of flex cable -see blue rectangle with red 'X' inside.
- You may put on another side but it will give a hard slide-out.
Second method "Arc Manipulator", (it's working)
- Try this when you are failing from the first method.
- You can make a very thin plastic with a proper size -see black rectangle with red 'X' inside- and the thick of the plastic should not be thicker than half height of left compartment -see gray rectangle. (I use broken Lego, about 2-3 mm thick and 1x2 cm large)
- Glued it as close as possible to the edge of the 'arc' flex cable -see yellow line.
Explanation: So even the flex cable being retracted while the slider out, the position of 'arc' flex cable is manipulated as closed slider flex cable position. You've got to be sure that the thick of the plastic will not make the flex cable out of the housing so for assurance, try to move the slide locker upside down several times -see gree rectangle.
Third "Replacing", (you will try this if you're inpatient and fully desperate)
- Replace with a new flex cable and don't forget to apply first method before you go on with your X1.
If you found this post is helpful.
please support by donating or give your comment...
Since I don't check this blog regularly, please contact me via facebook.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

[Q] M7 no display after replacing battery

Hi
I tried to replace my battery and after assemble it back i only get a black display when turning my m7 on.
I broke this little plastic thing from the display cable off (look in attachment)
Is this thing essential for a working display? (i thought i can fix it with a drop of glue)
Should the display work when the backcover is off the device? Because there are some connectors on the backcover....
cheers

00Nuclear00 said:
Hi
I tried to replace my battery and after assemble it back i only get a black display when turning my m7 on.
I broke this little plastic thing from the display cable off (look in attachment)
Is this thing essential for a working display? (i thought i can fix it with a drop of glue)
Should the display work when the backcover is off the device? Because there are some connectors on the backcover....
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shouldn't have done that, I think you accidentally broke something. I'd send it to a HTC service center. But that's gonna cost you probably.

nah, official repair isn't worth it. The phone is more than 2 years old...
and yes i think i broke something... thats why im asking

You're gonna have to be good with a solder and a couple of tiny wires if you want to revive your phone.

00Nuclear00 said:
Hi
I tried to replace my battery and after assemble it back i only get a black display when turning my m7 on.
I broke this little plastic thing from the display cable off (look in attachment)
Is this thing essential for a working display? (i thought i can fix it with a drop of glue)
Should the display work when the backcover is off the device? Because there are some connectors on the backcover....
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You definitively need this clip to be intact so the flex cable sits firmly in place otherwise you'll have bad contact between the cable and the pins.
If you don't want to send to HTC for repair you'll need at least to send it to your local electronic repair shop so someone skilled with the proper soldering tool (not the standard iron you have at home) can replace the connector. BTW some of these clips must be lifted from the cable side and some other from the opposite side of the cable, so next time use tweezers and apply very light force on each side you'll find from what side it must be lifted.
LCD should work fine with the back cover removed, afaik. Connectors in the back cover are often for antennas but I wouldn't recommend to run the phone with antennas disconnected to avoid damaging the radio chips (reflected power).
If you are from the US, you can easily find this connector on ebay for about 10$. I'm sure it won't be that much expensive to repair if you bring the new connector and the phone already disassembled to your local repair shop.
Btw are you sure its only the LCD? When trying to boot the phone can you here the HTC theme or does it vibrate? Recognized by your computer when connected with usb?

thx for your response
I found an replacement part on ebay but first i have to look for someone who can solder this for me.
When i try to turn it on it only vibrates without a htc theme sound and there is no display reaction.
The other thing i mentioned is that the phone gets very hot in the middle (should be the cpu) where i dont know if it should get that hot.
I have to try the pc connetion again and let you know asap.

00Nuclear00 said:
thx for your response
I found an replacement part on ebay but first i have to look for someone who can solder this for me.
When i try to turn it on it only vibrates without a htc theme sound and there is no display reaction.
The other thing i mentioned is that the phone gets very hot in the middle (should be the cpu) where i dont know if it should get that hot.
I have to try the pc connetion again and let you know asap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not really worried about the absence of HTC sound when booting, if your phone is on silent / vibration mode, it will only vibrate when booting. If your computer does detect it once booted, then I guess the broken connector clip is the problem.
---------- Post added at 09:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 AM ----------
Here is a video about the connector replacement, it doesn't look that hard to replace but wouldn't recommend to do it yourself if you never soldered electronics before. Soldering isn't that hard but you need some practices and knowledge to make good joints. I don't think your phone motherboard is a good candidate to practices yourself if you never did it before. You'll also need a really tiny tip for your iron, probably a type "L", 50/50 solder + some flux. Flux must be cleaned after use to avoid corrosion. The most difficult when soldering on motherboard, imo, is to find the right temperature. If your iron is to hot, you'll damage your connector. If its not hot enough, solder will take more time to liquefy and some heat will be absorbed by surrounding components which can cause irreversible damage.

Easy fix mate
You don't need to replace the connector, I've done this before, it is just the connector clip that has come off and it goes back on reasonably easily.
You will need a good magnifier.
You will need a good light source.
The phone held securely on its side with the socket pointing up.
Some masking tape on the loose part because it WILL go "ping" into the distance if you don't and you will not find it.
Look at the other connectors to see the proper orientation for the part, mark it with a permanent marker on top and at one end.
The insertion looks difficult, it isn't too bad, keep the part nice and straight and the motion is kind of like clicking it down on the ribbon.
Forget replacing the connector, that is 100 times harder.
If you do lose the loose part I have one or two laying around.
Good luck.