Related
Here are my computer's specs:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...4322&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&jumpid=reg_R1002_USEN
Only difference is that it's been upgraded to 4Gb of RAM.
My issue is this: My cpu cooling fan recently died and my comp has been overheating and shutting down. Under load it's been as high as 97*C before shutdown. Obviously I need a new fan but getting THAT hot has to be bad for the CPU so I might as well upgrade while I'm in there. I was just told by HP support that my motherboard (Narra2-GL8E) will only handle CPUs from 45W to 65W. I was really hoping to upgrade to amd 64 x2 6400+ processor but according to them it would be wayyy too much for the motherboard. I'm operating under the assumption that the rep was full o' **** and feeding me some standardized response so as not to encourage me to do something that *could* possibly be damaging to my pc.
My question is what's the best processor can I realistically upgrade to with my current set-up??
I've got the Pavilion Elite m9402f, almost exact same specs, except it has 7GB of RAM, and runs at 2.3GHz. Watch that GPU, it sucks! Seems like the NVIDIA card isn't supplied with enough power. It prob isn't the reason for the overheating, but if you use any graphic-intensive apps/games, it may not help the issue.
Believe it or not, but the HP rep may have been correct. Your motherboard won't support CPU's with the designation AM2+. When AMD released the AM2+ CPU's, they intended them to be backwards compatible with existing AM2 motherboards. However, most manufacturers have refused to release the BIOS updates to allow this.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_AM2+
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01080282&lc=en&cc=ca&dlc=en&product=3445425
The 6400 is a special CPU that actually should have been released for the AM2+. But since the HT speed is the same as your stock processor, the wattage won't matter. I will warn you, the 6400 has been known to have severe overheating issues. You'll likely spend a good chunk in a high quality heatsink/fan for the processor.
The HP site doesn't list a PSU. What is the rating on yours? That may be what the rep was referring to... I couldn't imagine HP building a machine with more than enough wattage for the internal components. Usually PC Manufacturers cut those things pretty close to keep costs down.
I ended up deciding to err on the side of caution and bought an x2 5600+ processor to throw in there. My power supply is only 250W and that's definitely on the list of things to replace. Gonna need a better power supply to put a half decent GPU in there. Going to install the new CPU and heatsink/fan tomorrow and see if that doesn't help. I have a feeling there are other issues though...to be continued..?
**As a confusing little edit to the situation..upon closer inspection it turns out that the cpu fan IS actually working. So now I'm even more lost. It's understandable to run hot with no fan..but with a fully functional fan?!**
hi peeps,
At least in the 1Ghz cpu weight devision, is it still worth buying at ~US$545? i'm not that impressed with the past and current 1Ghz offerings. My main concern is software updates -- which, ironically, was why i hesitated buying the SGS a year ago. But then Samsung appears to have released a Gingerbread update ahead of everyone else( *cough* HTC *cough*), has even announced that it won't lock the bootloader, and appears to have a ton of custom ROMs and just as much "unofficial" developer support.
Then again, the projected price range of the dual core monsters coming in May isn't really that big; imho a US$100 price premium is well worth it for me.
I think as of right now, anyone who wants a phone should wait for the SGSII, but as for buying the SGS, im glad i bought it when i did (jan). The community make it what it is. If there wasnt custom roms to speed the phone up then i would have been bitterly disapointed with the lag of a stock SGS, yes gingerbread is quick but its been awhile in the making.
One year and another month different story SGS 2 on sale SGS 1 at a cheaper price .
jje
Nope. Save your money for SGS2 or dual-core HTCm whatever suits you.
I would definitely hang on for whichever dual core floats your boat, be it HTC or SGS II. As good as the SGS is (I love mine) it will struggle to compete with the heavyweight dual core handsets.
Get a Tegra 2 based device. See how much juice they consume though.
SGS 2 is silly big, well for me personally, there ought to be some constraints to limit overall size of device, afterall its mobile phones we're talking about. Bigger devices defeat the purpose of having a mobile phone and tend to look rather unprofessional, more like portable gaming devices.
I'm going to take the opposite opinion to many on here.
+es
SGS is a solid, reliable, known platform, that just keeps improving with each android revision.
not possible to have a problem that can't be answered by reading here
****load of 3rd party hardware, from spare batteries on up
-es
doesn't have dual core, waaa waaa my penis isn't big enough, go and buy 3 spare batteries to run the dual core SGS2, better still buy a laptop, because the only people I have seen with ANY kind of computing power problems are frankly assholes who could bring a cray to its knees in a week.
============================
phones have got to the place desktops got with 3ghz cpu's and xp/linux, almost nobody actually needs faster more than 0.5% of the time.
============================
The next big revolution is going to be in battery tech, when you can get 5000 mAh into the volume and mass of 1000 mAh today, that will open new doors
thermal rejection of an SGS at full battery draining whack is already as high as you can go and stay healthy silicon wise.
just be grateful it ain't x86.... (speaking as someone who used to run 64bit MIPS Cobalt RAQ2's back in the day when they were the new kid on the block... wow, an empty pizza box with not even any heatsinks on the silicon...)
save your money for SGS II
i just bought mine last week. got it for around $470 (8GB version) in Vietnam. the reason i got it was mainly due to the great screen as well as the strong community developer support which coming from the Galaxy Spica is a BIG difference in the overall user experience. I love tech and love tinkering with my phone. I don't believe dual core will make that much of a difference unlike on a laptop/desktop where you really have to run multiple programs (note: antivirus). I know my SGS will be astounding as soon as the devs finish tweaking the heck out of the GB code!
If you are going to pay that kind of price (around 500$) and you care about updates, why don't you get a Nexus S ?
Same phone, slightly better and corrected hardware-wise. It is supported by Google and CyanogenMod.
I think it's worth considering buying second hand. I just bought a 1 month old handset for quite a bit less than a new one. It's in perfect condition. And I'll use it for the next year and then upgrade when the SGSII (and others like it) are down to a reasonable price. Rinse and repeat (too expensive to be on the bleeding edge all the time ).
benoitb85 said:
If you are going to pay that kind of price (around 500$) and you care about updates, why don't you get a Nexus S ?
Same phone, slightly better and corrected hardware-wise. It is supported by Google and CyanogenMod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the deal breaker for me on the nexus s was the lack of micro SD support
mmjuban said:
the deal breaker for me on the nexus s was the lack of micro SD support
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had 2 deal breakers...
No microsd slot and no fm radio.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
depends on $$$$
Johnny55555555 said:
I'm going to take the opposite opinion to many on here.
+es
SGS is a solid, reliable, known platform, that just keeps improving with each android revision.
not possible to have a problem that can't be answered by reading here
****load of 3rd party hardware, from spare batteries on up
-es
doesn't have dual core, waaa waaa my penis isn't big enough, go and buy 3 spare batteries to run the dual core SGS2, better still buy a laptop, because the only people I have seen with ANY kind of computing power problems are frankly assholes who could bring a cray to its knees in a week.
============================
phones have got to the place desktops got with 3ghz cpu's and xp/linux, almost nobody actually needs faster more than 0.5% of the time.
============================
The next big revolution is going to be in battery tech, when you can get 5000 mAh into the volume and mass of 1000 mAh today, that will open new doors
thermal rejection of an SGS at full battery draining whack is already as high as you can go and stay healthy silicon wise.
just be grateful it ain't x86.... (speaking as someone who used to run 64bit MIPS Cobalt RAQ2's back in the day when they were the new kid on the block... wow, an empty pizza box with not even any heatsinks on the silicon...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. SGS is still a great buy.
honestly, i do find dual cores a bit of an overkill for phones...but yeah, the price diff is just too close, esp. if you compare it with the G2X. dual core it is then. i just wish HTC(and all the other brands) would stop with the signed bootloader crap.
Then again, once the other dual cores come out, then the SGS drops to US$350...hmm...
badkuk said:
hi peeps,
At least in the 1Ghz cpu weight devision, is it still worth buying at ~US$545?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For sure it wasn't worth buying one year ago when I bought mine...
maybe it's like wine, the older the better
Soulbrighter
In Austria, you get the I9000 for 299€ .
A year ago, I paid the same + 24 months contract...
As you look around and see the tons of fixes / mods / developments, I would suggest, this is a very good buy even though I guess, SGS 2 is quite interesting as well...
Kind regards,
ww
in scotland you can get galaxy s's from £170 second hand on gumtree.
most are around £200 but to me thats still a bargain
regards
I came to hate this thing, that damn drive took forever to spin up and caused significant lag on the tablet constantly, I regretted not just getting a flash based one. So, this week I got bored and pried it apart. Pulled out the drive, used Gparted to shrink the partition to 120gb, copied that partition to an OCZ Petrol 128gb SSD, took it out of the metal case, and sticky taped that bad boy in. Tablet is amazingly fast now Movies load instantly. I never see that hated drive access indicator anymore. I shall see if the battery life is any better. Putting a mechanical drive in something like this was a terrible idea. I have some pics of the guts of this thing if anyone is interested.
yes upload photos, pictures of the tabled opened too. is hd sata? thank you
It is indeed SATA. Has an extremely easy to pull out of the motherboard cable that caused it to short the old SSD I was going to use. So watch that. Also, the original drive was covered in gold metal tape that was a beast to pull off, I suppose for RF shielding. I forgot to take pictures before I took the drive out. The only negative so far is that I now have that weird screen anomaly, which has GOT to be something pushing against the screen's back, I may have gotten a wire in the way. I will yank it back apart later this week to address that. Didn't have it before. It has TWO big batteries in it as well. In the pictures, the circuit board near the top kind of by itself is the naked SSD in the former drive bay. Motherboard is at the bottom, in one of them, you can see the bigger battery laying outside on my table.
Mega props to you. That's am awesome project. I installed a sad in my notebook and it was the best thing I ever did for performance.
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using Tapatalk
great idea
have you a process ? (send me by mp)
is sata port also present in the no hd g9 mainboard? thank you
Nice Project
Nice project.
Was just wondering if the RAM is soldered onto the board or it is upgradable as I got the 80 G9 8GB non turbo and could do with a ram boost.
Not sure if the innards are the same as the 250GB model but worth asking as you have had it open.
Thanks in advance.
Psi.
wifi
Hello, could you say where is wifi antenna?
I have problem with the strength of signal...
Thank you
wonderka said:
Hello, could you say where is wifi antenna?
I have problem with the strength of signal...
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's just a universal issue with the archos g9 tablets.
You just got to re-position your router closer or use 3G dongle.
Psi.
well, I bought stronger router because of signal, but no change. So I compare my and my colleague Archos G9 80 and samsung mobile and my tablet was about 30-50% worse...
Factory reset I tried
No idea id the non-hdd has it, I only own the Hdd model. Since my case is actually thicker, I imagine it doesn't exist in the non-hdd, and seeing as I. have no micro sd slot. There are physical differences in the models. I was looking at the mobo, as I wanted to upgrade the ram as well, didn't see anything that looked like a SODIMM slot. I imagine its soldered in. I will check again when I crack it to fix the screen issue. I will attempt aome sort of legible walkthrough when I get some time.
sent from my Holy Rezound. its cooler than your phone.
steve adams said:
Mega props to you. That's am awesome project. I installed a sad in my notebook and it was the best thing I ever did for performance.
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's so much faster in this too. Battery life seems much better so far. Off charger all day, light use, at 75% now. I'm wondering if the HDD model has the 2 batteries to compensate for the extra drain. I found it odd that it has 2 different sized batteries wedged in it.
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using xda premium
Mine is the same. Even when sitting on top of my router I don't get full signal
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using Tapatalk
reverendbill said:
It's so much faster in this too. Battery life seems much better so far. Off charger all day, light use, at 75% now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SSD's are faster and since there is no moving part they require less power to operate
reverendbill said:
I'm wondering if the HDD model has the 2 batteries to compensate for the extra drain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's very likely
reverendbill said:
I found it odd that it has 2 different sized batteries wedged in it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Physical shape/size doesn't matter, I bet they have the same capacity (connecting batteries with different capacity together would kill them both soon)
way cool reverendbill! (and assuming rather broadly that you are clergy, good luck with holy week!) i am considering purchasing the new 1gb version of the g9 101 250gb and am inspired by your work. i am pretty clever with a screwdriver and an idiot with programming and would really like to know how you get all your data off the old hdd and onto the new ssd. please be as detailed as possible (i'm sure others would love to know as well) pm and email if necessary. thanks in advance for your time and patience!
did you have to do anything special to the new drive? I see you did a partition copy, but is that needed if you don't care about loosing whats on it? Right now, I only have two movies and a few songs on mine because I just got it and haven't done much as far as copying my media to it. Yet...
So I'm just curious if getting a new drive to work is as simple as formatting it correctly and that's it. Guess I'd have to format it under linux so I could do ext4 properly? Or will the archos format it just fine?
I tested battery drop after in 3 different gen 9 archos...one with original, one with a massive 1TB, one with M4 SSD...
No significant battery improvements...Giving it's not scientific test but still.
Every time I measured battery after one how of playing video and always had a drop of around 25% to 27% in both of them..
I also tried a hybride SSD/HDD seagate and same thing.
So please do the SSD replacement for other reasons; quite operation, less, heat, less weight, less failure. As af as speed and power consumption not very much to gain acording to my tests.
The only explanation may well be that since Archos is already pairing Flash to HDD and caching...the HDD is turned off as needed. Ran seveal speed test reading and writing...and did not see much change...I guess it'all just go thru the cache flash used by the HDD versions of Archos.
That was my experience. I reverted back to my 1Tb HDD..No gain for me with an expensive HDD. The hDD is very cheap and if it fails I can still replace it just like that.
Hey guys!
hitman72 said:
is sata port also present in the no hd g9 mainboard? thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, there's no USB2SATA logic on the S models.
psiman24 said:
Was just wondering if the RAM is soldered onto the board or it is upgradable as I got the 80 G9 8GB non turbo and could do with a ram boost.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RAM is soldered on top of the CPU, it's called PoP memory.
psiman24 said:
Not sure if the innards are the same as the 250GB model but worth asking as you have had it open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, mainboards are different, see my comment above.
reverendbill said:
I was looking at the mobo, as I wanted to upgrade the ram as well, didn't see anything that looked like a SODIMM slot. I imagine its soldered in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure... see above. You'll never find something like a SODIMM slot or similar inside cost sensitive devices like tablets. Please be aware that most of them are not x86 but based on ARM SoC's.
The architecture is basically very different to what you've learned from your PC at home (there's also nothing like a PC-BIOS).
See my comment here as well:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=24428967&postcount=14
Best regards,
scholbert
Would you be able to post pictures of how to open it step by step?
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that and cannot be use anymore. Now in the feeder just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (4 USB pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, bricked because of no battery power. It was just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if you can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can you share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. Thankyou in advance.
ok, i know this is a site for phone devs but im sure some of you guys have built yourself a computer or to. i have built them but never assembled by hand. im trying to re build an old Compaq using a new mother bored and video card ( even a new power supply if needed) i would like to use all my old parts if possible other then the ram ( that can be new) id like it to be a high powered computer with DDR3 ram for gaming and media editing ( it needs to have more then 2 monitors plugged into it) if i have to i will buy a new case but i would very much like to use AS MANY of the existing parts as i can (ex: HD,fans, disk drive ..etc... my price range for the new parts is about $300-600 over time . (so i will buy the parts one at a time)
(it will run win 7 x64 or Linux upon completion ) if anyone knows ..how to *ehem* get ahold of the OS in an easy fashion please post/pm me
here is a link to the specs
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883107288
General Spec
Brand
COMPAQ
Series
Presario
Model
SR2150NX(RR790AA)
Type
Home / Home Office
Processor
Intel Celeron D 356(3.33GHz)
Processor Main Features
64 bit Processor
Cache Per Processor
512KB L2 Cache
Memory
512MB PC2-4200 DDR2
Hard Drive
120GB 7200RPM SATA
Optical Drive 1
SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology
Graphics
ATI Radeon Xpress 1100 Graphics with 64MB dedicated graphics memory. Up to 128MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows Vista
Audio
Integrated audio
Ethernet
10/100BaseT network interface
Operating System
Windows Vista Home Basic
Motherboard
Chipset
ATI Radeon Xpress 1100 Chipset
CPU
CPU Type
Celeron D
Installed Qty
1
CPU FSB
533MHz
CPU Speed
356(3.33GHz)
L2 Cache Per CPU
512KB
CPU Main Features
64 bit Processor
Graphics
GPU/VPU Type
ATI Radeon Xpress 1100 Integrated
Graphics Interface
Integrated video
Memory
Memory Speed
DDR2 533
Form Factor
DIMM 240-pin
Memory Spec
1000MB x 2
Memory Slots (Available/Total)
1/2
Hard Drive
HDD Capacity
120GBx2
HDD Interface
SATA
HDD RPM
7200rpm
HDD Spec
SATA 3Gb/s
Audio
Audio Chipset
Integrated
Communications
Modem
56k modem
LAN Chipset
Integrated
LAN Speed
10/100Mbps
Front Panel Ports
Front USB
2
Front Audio Ports
Headphone
Back Panel Ports
PS/2
2
Video Ports
1 VGA
Rear USB
2
RJ45
1 port
Rear Audio Ports
Microphone/line-in/line-out
Expansion
PCI Slots (Available/Total)
(2/3) PCI slots
(1/1) PCI Express x16 Slot
front
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/83-107-288-05.jpg
inside
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/83-107-288-10.jpg
back
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/83-107-288-12.jpg
thank you for your help!
.
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The only thing that you can get from that is a working PSU, all the fans, RAM, HDDs, CD/DVD drive and the casing itself. Based on your preference, you have to change the motherboard and the processor to a newer one.
OR, you can stick with the old setup, but with liquid cooling for extreme overclocking and higher spec PSU. I think there is a PCIe slot in it, doesn't it? So stick in a higher end GPU and voila! XD
Budget? Dunno, there is so much difference in monetary exchange I lose my calculation.
drpsyko said:
The only thing that you can get from that is a working PSU, all the fans, RAM, HDDs, CD/DVD drive and the casing itself. Based on your preference, you have to change the motherboard and the processor to a newer one.
OR, you can stick with the old setup, but with liquid cooling for extreme overclocking and higher spec PSU. I think there is a PCIe slot in it, doesn't it? So stick in a higher end GPU and voila! XD
Budget? Dunno, there is so much difference in monetary exchange I lose my calculation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was planning to upgrade the mother bored and put a i7 in it with a new video card a bit later . I should be saving a bunch of money by recycling the old components. Considering I'm only going to need the mother and the i7 right away. Then mby a power supply ( which I may be able to take from an old computer somewhere )
It has 2 PCi and 1 pci e ( I was going to just upgrade with a video card at one point but the computer is just so slow and incompatible with most new cards )
I don't have much in terms of monetary funding so I was planning to do this over time .
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
ianwardell said:
I was planning to upgrade the mother bored and put a i7 in it with a new video card a bit later . I should be saving a bunch of money by recycling the old components. Considering I'm only going to need the mother and the i7 right away. Then mby a power supply ( which I may be able to take from an old computer somewhere )
It has 2 PCi and 1 pci e ( I was going to just upgrade with a video card at one point but the computer is just so slow and incompatible with most new cards )
I don't have much in terms of monetary funding so I was planning to do this over time .
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't buy parts over time.
You will end up kicking yourself.
OmegaRED^ said:
Don't buy parts over time.
You will end up kicking yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK , so its better to save up and buy at the same time then?
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
OmegaRED^ said:
Don't buy parts over time.
You will end up kicking yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So true. Though this is a bad time to purchase parts. Urgh, how I wish I bought my PC from back then before the flood happen. But then, purchasing all of it in one go is a good thing. You can get bundle price, freebies, and you ought to buy different things in that specific time, given that you have accumulate enough money. Aaaand, all the prices will be lower eventually. So, it's best for you now to start saving money and generate patience.
Since i often help guys with upgrades and so on.
I would suggest you please take my advice.
Too many people i know hurt them self by not saving and buying a entire new machine.
Sometimes they end up wasting way more than what was planned.
Also ask yourself this question "what am I using my PC for?"
Because i7 is way hardcore overpowered... but a very good choice for gaming.
Best of luck.
I'm on a:
AMD Phenom II x6 T1100
8GB ram
"Hybrid" gpu setup "not recommended to AMD 2GB 7890HD + n-vidia 250gtx on crossfire board"
It's not the best.. but it's a bang for what i paid.
So far nothing lags my pc... ever.
i can play "lol" while compiling in the background, watching anime and still have loads of resources left.
OmegaRED^ said:
I'm on a:
AMD Phenom II x6 T1100
8GB ram
"Hybrid" gpu setup "not recommended to AMD 2GB 7890HD + n-vidia 250gtx on crossfire board"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dat setup!
Damn, you made me jelly. It really is not recommended, but that firepower...even Unigene would cry.
drpsyko said:
Dat setup!
Damn, you made me jelly. It really is not recommended, but that firepower...even Unigene would cry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know... completely overpowered.
And the price wasn't even that bad.
And i can safely say stability is spot on with intel.
drpsyko said:
So true. Though this is a bad time to purchase parts. Urgh, how I wish I bought my PC from back then before the flood happen. But then, purchasing all of it in one go is a good thing. You can get bundle price, freebies, and you ought to buy different things in that specific time, given that you have accumulate enough money. Aaaand, all the prices will be lower eventually. So, it's best for you now to start saving money and generate patience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a laptop that has an i7 chip in it and a dedicated graphics card + an integrated one
. So I can't have a desktop with less power then my laptop . ( I used a replacement to get this laptop ) verizon expert care or w/e its called is amazing ! I told them " the reason my computer failed is because of the inter grated graphics card" and they said OK and showed me computers with dedicated ones ( it was a true statement ) . I have started saving up for the computer and Im hoping if I get the money right before win 8 is out I can by the parts cheeper because the company have new parts coming out at that time.when I used to have the money I would buy a new system . But I just can't spend 1 grand on a computer...when what I really want is a project and something to have fun with and video edit+ play games .
OmegaRED^ said:
Since i often help guys with upgrades and so on.
I would suggest you please take my advice.
Too many people i know hurt them self by not saving and buying a entire new machine.
Sometimes they end up wasting way more than what was planned.
Also ask yourself this question "what am I using my PC for?"
Because i7 is way hardcore overpowered... but a very good choice for gaming.
Best of luck.
I'm on a:
AMD Phenom II x6 T1100
8GB ram
"Hybrid" gpu setup "not recommended to AMD 2GB 7890HD + n-vidia 250gtx on crossfire board"
It's not the best.. but it's a bang for what i paid.
So far nothing lags my pc... ever.
i can play "lol" while compiling in the background, watching anime and still have loads of resources left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im going to use it for gaming and video editing + school
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
ianwardell said:
I have a laptop that has an i7 chip in it and a dedicated graphics card + an integrated one
. So I can't have a desktop with less power then my laptop . ( I used a replacement to get this laptop ) verizon expert care or w/e its called is amazing ! I told them " the reason my computer failed is because of the inter grated graphics card" and they said OK and showed me computers with dedicated ones ( it was a true statement ) . I have started saving up for the computer and Im hoping if I get the money right before win 8 is out I can by the parts cheeper because the company have new parts coming out at that time.when I used to have the money I would buy a new system . But I just can't spend 1 grand on a computer...when what I really want is a project and something to have fun with and video edit+ play games .
Im going to use it for gaming and video editing + school
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then go for power.. save up.. buy once.
Phenom II should serve you well.
Nothing less than the T1050... and i suggest you stay away from the new bulldozer chips.
They need to mature more first.
Else core i5 if your a bit AMD shy.
OmegaRED^ said:
Then go for power.. save up.. buy once.
Phenom II should serve you well.
Nothing less than the T1050... and i suggest you stay away from the new bulldozer chips.
They need to mature more first.
Else core i5 if your a bit AMD shy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am AMD shy, im sorry to say i am a huge Intel fan ( due to the fact that most of the computers i have had that are AMD haven't lasted but the Intel ones have) im working on saving up the money , i should have enough in about a month or two i hope
OmegaRED^ said:
Then go for power.. save up.. buy once.
Phenom II should serve you well.
Nothing less than the T1050... and i suggest you stay away from the new bulldozer chips.
They need to mature more first.
Else core i5 if your a bit AMD shy.
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Click to collapse
+1
ianwardell said:
i am AMD shy, im sorry to say i am a huge Intel fan ( due to the fact that most of the computers i have had that are AMD haven't lasted but the Intel ones have) im working on saving up the money , i should have enough in about a month or two i hope
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Click to collapse
I'm sorry for your AMD loss.
Good luck with the savings and the new computer.
drpsyko said:
+1
I'm sorry for your AMD loss.
Good luck with the savings and the new computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i appreciate it !
what i have picked thus far
i chose liquid cooling due to the fact that the case i am using is small and doesn't have very much air flow.
(push pull configuration from back fan)
the PSU is variable but so far to be safe im going with a 500W
the memory is also something i might lower to 1x4gb however at this moment im going with 8
the I7 is so the computer has more power then my laptop
what i need to decide upon is a good Micro ATX motherboard that can handle the equipment im using and be able to have more then one 4 pin fan plug in
the motherboard also needs to be able to use all 4 of the PCIe/PCI slots on my computer with the ability to use the existing front USB (2x) ports and the 1 headphone jack also in front
i also need a good video card, i would like to be able to at some point fit 2 in (as an upgrade in the future ) but that is wishful thinking im going to be installing a wireless N card (at some point) so the MB needs to be able to have that with the video card
any ideas on a video card?
( i like nvida as a #1 and ATI as #2) in order of my favs
thanks for your help, also the links to the parts above are below .!
TOPOWER ZU-500W 500W ATX12V Ver. 2.0 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817101011
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820231314
Antec Kuhler H2O 620 Liquid Cooling System
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209049
Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 ...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115071
motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na&AID=10521304&PID=4176827&SID=n8p9f7wlxa1y
this is the micro ATX board i thought was the best i could find. any ideas? i am measuring to see if i could put an ATX instead of a micro atx (i believe i might be able to get one to fit)
*edit*
im looking for full size cases just to see if i could get a bigger board (and more fan space) so that means for the time being im looking at both micro atx and atx
*edit #2 *
I decided to get a new case so i can put a full ATX board in and have the ability to cool the machine.
im still looking at motherboards and video cards i have everything else either picked out or i own the part already
NEW CART
COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233
TOPOWER ZU-500W 500W ATX12V Ver. 2.0 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817101011
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
Antec Kuhler H2O 620 Liquid Cooling System
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209049
Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I72600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115071
*edit 4*
here are the mother and the video card and the new case
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 Black CECC Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237
XFX Double D HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with ...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150549
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.892323
what i have picked
ok what case should i go with
Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, come with Five Fans, window side panel, top HDD dock
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.892323
vs
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 Black CECC Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237
Hmmm...seems like a decent setup. But then, please revise your selection of PSU. The HD 6950 could drain a lot of power from that PSU as high as 300w. And for future expandability, I would recommend you to use higher output PSU. That is if you planning to use SLI or crossfire configuration. The casing is an OK, but for me, I don't really emphasis on casing. I'm a DIY user, that is. Hehe. As my opinion on the cooling system, there is no need for the processor's liquid cooling. For now, it is best for you to use stock cooling block as it is already adequate enough.
As for the alternative option, you can change entire casing and cooling system into custom liquid cooling system from Koolance. IF, you have extra budget to spare AND planning for expanding your setup or overclocking your processor and GPU.
drpsyko said:
Hmmm...seems like a decent setup. But then, please revise your selection of PSU. The HD 6950 could drain a lot of power from that PSU as high as 300w. And for future expandability, I would recommend you to use higher output PSU. That is if you planning to use SLI or crossfire configuration. The casing is an OK, but for me, I don't really emphasis on casing. I'm a DIY user, that is. Hehe. As my opinion on the cooling system, there is no need for the processor's liquid cooling. For now, it is best for you to use stock cooling block as it is already adequate enough.
As for the alternative option, you can change entire casing and cooling system into custom liquid cooling system from Koolance. IF, you have extra budget to spare AND planning for expanding your setup or overclocking your processor and GPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what would you recommend as a good enough PSU? also i figured that if i off the bat installed liquid cooling in that one spot then when i did upgrade further (another day) and put in another video card i could still be safe in knowing that certain parts will stay cool .
like this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817159126
I'm interested in building my own gaming pc, something that can run games like BF3 and Fallout 3, New Vegas on full graphics. If I had to throw a price out there, I would say something under $700, the cheaper the better. I don't have a preference in parts since I am not experienced at all in this. I have looked at different videos and tutorials on this but I wanted peoples opinions on specific combinations, part brands, etc. Thank you beforehand! :good:
I asked this question here before, a member recommended me to go to overclocked.net they could help you out alot there on how to build a computer and what parts fit your specific needs
Sent from my LG-VM696 using Tapatalk 2
I think this isn't very helpful but you should check alienware. They have that desktop for 700 bucks which has great specs.
Georges2251 said:
I think this isn't very helpful but you should check alienware. They have that desktop for 700 bucks which has great specs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT get an alienware. They are the apple of PC's. You pay a huge premium for fancy lights.
Get a computer with something along these lines:
Nvidia gtx 670
8-16 gig ram
Because of your price range you might have to go i5 as your processor
Asus motherboards are the bomb.
A cool case but don't spend more than 40 bucks on the case.
Any store you would recommend for the parts, something maybe cheaper and as reliable as New Egg?
Moved to Off-topic.
tigerdirect.com is a great place for parts
quad core CPU i5 or i7 $200
8gb ram 1600mhz or above $40
500 or 600 gtx series nvidia video card $200
SSD 128gb or above $200
750w power supply $50
Those prices are a guestimation based on average market prices. You don't need to trick out your case IMO, any that will fit your motherboard and everything else is fine. Frys electronics is a local electronics store near me that sells it all if you have one near you go there.
Thanks guys, this really gives me a good idea on what I need. What about in regards to the monitor and such. Anything good for the money? Any tips will be really appreciated.
valdesr11 said:
Thanks guys, this really gives me a good idea on what I need. What about in regards to the monitor and such. Anything good for the money? Any tips will be really appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was as close as I could get on newegg:
Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Item #: N82E16811129042
$54.99
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Item #: N82E16822152185
$69.99
Acer G215HVAbd Black 21.5" Full HD WideScreen LCD Monitor
Item #: N82E16824009306
$119.99
SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card (100314-3L )
Item #: N82E16814102948
$169.99
Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817371030
$59.99
G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model F3-10600CL9D-8GBNT
Item #: N82E16820231422
$39.99
Intel BOXDZ77SL50K LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #: N82E16813121618
$119.99
Intel Core i3-2120 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 65W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I32120
Item #: N82E16819115077
$124.99
Total before shipping+tax: $759.92
Could probably be brought down some by going with cheaper/ghetto on many of the parts like power supply, mobo, vid card, memory, case.
Also this does not take into account a copy of Windows (could be had cheaply if you are a college student through your school most likely) and keyboard+mouse.
Also could shop around for prices, Amazon can be pretty good as well as other sites mentioned.
I mostly stick with Antec for cases/power supplies these days, they're not super-gamer oriented by they have good 12v amperage and reliability.
I've been going intel not only CPUs but also Mobos for the same reasons, they are no frills reference boards. Simple and reliable. I see the appeal of overclocking but it just has never been a priority, spending more money on proper mobo+cooling to possibly reduce video encode times by seconds, maybe minutes?
Same with SLI/Crossfire, by the time I think I could benefit from a 2nd card the newer cards are already as good if not better for around what I paid for the first one.
If you did expand your budget I'd recommend a Crucial SSD drive over beefing up the CPU and mobo. You'll get more real performance gains from an SSD. Just don't benchmark it every day like a moron, they do have limited write cycles but it will last many many years with normal use not continuous torture testing.
Nice choice.. but it would be better if you go for i5 or i7 quad core processor.. they will give you higher fps and smoother performance..
Sent from the Underdog..
heinrichkaiser said:
Nice choice.. but it would be better if you go for i5 or i7 quad core processor.. they will give you higher fps and smoother performance..
Sent from the Underdog..
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Click to collapse
Considering his budget I'd stick with the i3. An i5 won't give any meaningful performance gains for the majority of games out there as they are usually not multi-threaded.
Google for: "The Clarkdale Review: Intel's Core i5 661, i3 540 & i3 530"
It's an AnandTech review, there is a gaming page and it shows there really is only a 3-7 frame difference between the processors, and that's with the FPS being over 70.
Also as I said aside from the graphics card a Crucial SSD would provide the biggest performance gains overall. For games it will significantly cut down launch and load times. And it will make everything else faster, but with the budget as it is that will probably be an upgrade for later (though the prices have come down quite a bit, they are now under the $1/1GB ratio).
Also if you are on a budget, I'd also recommend picking up a basic Dell with an i3 processor and a PCI-Express slot and then getting a Radeon 6850 or 6870. Then expand the ram out yourself as well. It would probably be the cheapest way to get a decent base that you could upgrade to gaming duty.
I'm not really on a budget, I just wouldn't want to spend too much. I do play, but not to an extent that I would go all out. I play maybe a couple of times a week, mostly online with BF3 and story modes on games like Fallout and Skyrim. I decided to sell my laptop since my family got me an Ipad for my birthday, and with the PC that I build with this I can sell my Xbox as well with all its games. Then I'll use my PC for school, games, and surfing the web. The Ipad for traveling and taking it to school. You guys know more than me about what is best when it comes to gaming PC's, I just want to get my money's worth and not make a mistake when putting it together. If I need to go over my "budget" a bit, its no big deal, same with letting me know if you think I shouldn't even build one and just get a Dell like you said, and upgrade the main parts for gaming in order to save money.
valdesr11 said:
I'm not really on a budget, I just wouldn't want to spend too much. I do play, but not to an extent that I would go all out. I play maybe a couple of times a week, mostly online with BF3 and story modes on games like Fallout and Skyrim. I decided to sell my laptop since my family got me an Ipad for my birthday, and with the PC that I build with this I can sell my Xbox as well with all its games. Then I'll use my PC for school, games, and surfing the web. The Ipad for traveling and taking it to school. You guys know more than me about what is best when it comes to gaming PC's, I just want to get my money's worth and not make a mistake when putting it together. If I need to go over my "budget" a bit, its no big deal, same with letting me know if you think I shouldn't even build one and just get a Dell like you said, and upgrade the main parts for gaming in order to save money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Building a PC isn't too bad nowadays but there are weird little quirks you can run into.
For instance, I build a system for my wife and got a case with USB3.0 front ports but the mobo only had USB2.0 front panel connectors, oops. Ended up having to buy an adapter from another case manufacturer, wasn't a huge deal but was a little annoying. I've also had issues with cases having more fans and plug harnesses than the motherboard had but that is less the case as a lot of case fans use molex harnesses.
frank_jaeger said:
Building a PC isn't too bad nowadays but there are weird little quirks you can run into.
For instance, I build a system for my wife and got a case with USB3.0 front ports but the mobo only had USB2.0 front panel connectors, oops. Ended up having to buy an adapter from another case manufacturer, wasn't a huge deal but was a little annoying. I've also had issues with cases having more fans and plug harnesses than the motherboard had but that is less the case as a lot of case fans use molex harnesses.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah stuff like this is what I want to avoid.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
valdesr11 said:
Yeah stuff like this is what I want to avoid.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I listed earlier is a pretty decent start point I think.
Case obviously is very much up to taste, I like the Antec 300 because it has a lot of bays, large rear and top fans and looks nice. No chrome and lights n stuff.
Video card could be swapped based on brand/manufacturer preference.
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Item #: N82E16832116986
$99.99
Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Item #: N82E16820148443
$179.99
Adding the OS (Win7 Home 64-bit OEM) and the SSD drive bumps the total up to $1,035.90.
The SSD drive would be for OS, games, programs. And any big files like movies, music, etc could go on the regular 1TB.
As far as actually assembling it you can probably find some pretty good generic guides but really just need to take it slow and follow the directions. The case comes with these kind of "post" screws, that you put on first and then the MB sits on those and then you use the normal little screws. And check everything to make sure the screws you use are the correct threading for where you put them.
Oh and IO panel cover that comes with the MB goes into the case first before mounting the MB itself.
One weird area is connecting all the front panel switches and lights (power, hdd activity) from the case to the MB, usually isn't too bad as the case plugs are labeled and then you just color match.
I honestly think an i3 will be sufficient for normal use and gaming. Additional threads/cores won't really show their worth unless you're doing 3D rendering or lots of encoding jobs.
Only thing is with the OEM license it would be paired to the motherboard at license time. The retail license which you can move between complete systems is an additional $80.
frank_jaeger said:
What I listed earlier is a pretty decent start point I think.
Case obviously is very much up to taste, I like the Antec 300 because it has a lot of bays, large rear and top fans and looks nice. No chrome and lights n stuff.
Video card could be swapped based on brand/manufacturer preference.
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Item #: N82E16832116986
$99.99
Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Item #: N82E16820148443
$179.99
Adding the OS (Win7 Home 64-bit OEM) and the SSD drive bumps the total up to $1,035.90.
The SSD drive would be for OS, games, programs. And any big files like movies, music, etc could go on the regular 1TB.
As far as actually assembling it you can probably find some pretty good generic guides but really just need to take it slow and follow the directions. The case comes with these kind of "post" screws, that you put on first and then the MB sits on those and then you use the normal little screws. And check everything to make sure the screws you use are the correct threading for where you put them.
Oh and IO panel cover that comes with the MB goes into the case first before mounting the MB itself.
One weird area is connecting all the front panel switches and lights (power, hdd activity) from the case to the MB, usually isn't too bad as the case plugs are labeled and then you just color match.
I honestly think an i3 will be sufficient for normal use and gaming. Additional threads/cores won't really show their worth unless you're doing 3D rendering or lots of encoding jobs.
Only thing is with the OEM license it would be paired to the motherboard at license time. The retail license which you can move between complete systems is an additional $80.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fortunately, my school provides us with Windows 7 (all versions) for free. So that's $100 I can save. Building it doesn't worry me as much as getting the right parts and making sure they work for what I need them for. What is the deal with AMD and why do people love Intel so much over it?
valdesr11 said:
Fortunately, my school provides us with Windows 7 (all versions) for free. So that's $100 I can save. Building it doesn't worry me as much as getting the right parts and making sure they work for what I need them for. What is the deal with AMD and why do people love Intel so much over it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intel hit a homerun with the initial Core 2 Duo/Quad processors after the old Core Duo pieces of crap. Since then they haven't let their quality and performance drop. They were the SSD leaders for awhile as well but Crucial took that away from them, Samsung is making noise but still hasn't been proven.
Really though it just comes down to preference. I'm not really up to date on what AMDs current cpu offerings are, I switched from AMD to Intel during the Core 2 Duo days and stuck into the Core i series. Basically it seems the AMD cpus are sub-par compared to Intel offerings and to counter-balance AMD cuts the price.
Granted while I have no preference for AMDs processors I love their GPUs. The Radeon HD 4870 made a lot of waves when it came out and they've continued to deliver. The 6850/70/90 have excellent performance to price ratios.
That's another item you could swap, is the 6850 for the 6870 (what I'm running currently) or a comparable Nvidia card, just check the reviews on sites like anandtech, tomshardware, legitreviews. Again this is all opinion but the card manufacturers I've been partial to lately are Sapphire/XFX/EVGA, mostly Sapphire because they are the least expensive and I've had great results with them. ASUS and Gigabyte would probably be ok.
Also as an earlier posted said you can most likely get better info/recommendations from a dedicated site like overclock.net.
SKYNET 1.0
Good morning everyone,
I thought I should share the official build I purchased last night. Came out to a little more expensive than I wanted but it will be worth it in the end.
And that's with not doing exactly what I wanted of having two monitors and throwing in there a home theater system build as well.
So I just kept it as a gaming system for now. I will either be upgrading it as I go or sell it in the future and build my second one when I have money for it with exactly what I want, and possibly learn to overclock
1 x Logitech MK550 Black USB RF Wireless Ergonomic Wave Combo
1 x APC BE450G 450 VA 257 Watts UPS
1 x ASRock B75 PRO3 LGA 1155 Intel B75 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
1 x Newegg Free CPU Magazine Coupon
1 x Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, ...
1 x ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor W/Speakers
1 x SAMSUNG 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model MV-3V4G3D/US
1 x EVGA 012-P3-1571-KR GeForce GTX 570 HD w/Display-Port (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready ...
1 x Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
1 x Rosewill CAPSTONE Series CAPSTONE-450-M 450W ATX12V v2.31 & EPS12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD ...
1 x ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
1 x Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics ...
Everything including shipping came out to $1,077.18 - $30 in rebates.
I'll post some pictures later on of the building process just to share with you guys.
P.S. Thank you guys for all the advice and mad credit to everyone from the overclock.net community. You were all great and a big influence on my build.
Nice!!!
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