Has anyone else experienced this? My tilt will not charge if I use a cable that is a retractable charge/sync cable. The cables work because I use them with other devices and they charge fine. If I plug in my power cable, the tilt charges. If I use a portable battery charger, it charges. If I plug the tilt into the sync cable that came with it (not retractable and plugged into a usb port), it both charges and syncs. But it will not charge/sync if I use the sync/charge retractable cables. Like I said before, they both work because I use them for other devices.
I know this worked prior to cooking my own ROM. But now it does not. I'm not for sure if the two are related.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Alan
Firstly, make sure that under Settings\System\Power\Advanced that the box labeled "When device is on, do not charge the battery when connected to PC" is NOT checked.
If That box is NOT checked, it should work.
Secondly, & most unfortunately, check to see if the USB port on your device is bent, curved slightly, or is slightly lower on the right side.
If it is, then you've got problems & may need to RMA your device
Mine use to do that. It would charge on the AC charger, but would not charge
on a car charger. I eventually had AT&T replace it under warranty.
Take a look at the two pictures below. The top one is what mine looked like
and the bottom one is the new one.
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A RMA may not be required, but the truth is, it is even quite possible that the cable is not capable of providing enought power for the kaiser to charge from. From my own experiance of retractable cables I have seen that they were not able to power my USB DVD-RW. While another, single, normal cable was more than capable. Id just like to add that the DVD-RW was meant to be only powered by USB. So try a different normal cable first before RMA. This as well the above posters information should fix your problems. If this helps, your welcome in advanced.
Adil AS
@ p51d007
Great Pic Post! I can't tell you how many people have argued with me stating "If the USB is damaged it won't charge at all, anywhere, no matter what".
I certainly know that if it's a curved USB or slightly lowered on the right side it can definitely cause a loss of only car & PC-USB charge because it happened to me. People still argue though saying that's immpossible.
As another poster suggested, try another cable or try your cable on another device.
Im personally using an insten retractable mini USB cable, and I have no problems syncing/charging with it.
Erg. I looked at the usb port and I indeed had a pin bent all the way down. I tried to straighten but of course it broke. I purchased through Amazon (with a two year contract) so I don't think it came with a warranty. So that sucks.
Can anyone recommend someone to repair (close to Houston, TX would be nice ? Or would it be easy to repair it myself by replacing the port?
Thanks!
Alan
I have an unusual problem which is even worse!! My kaiser ONLY charges from the USB port on my computer. I've tried 2 or 3 car chargers now and the orange light comes on for a bit then goes off. Mains charger won't work either - orange light stays on but the battery level continues to decrease. It's a real bummer if I go away anywhere as my phone just eventually runs out of charge!!
Yeah, same thing going on here... my wall charger works when plugged into the phone, but I have a desktop stand charger that stopped working a few days ago... and I have the same thing going on with my phone's port...
I have trouble getting Activesync to pick it up. Usually says "must install 4.5" on my phone. I can usually delete the partnership and reboot and it works, but my pin is slightly bent.
Sucks.
where can i find the pin to fix this myself. Just the part. I looked at mines today and its slightly bent maybe thats why its it doesn't charge. I will look online in google.com but let me know if anything.
You can get it from pocketpctechs.com. I asked them the same question and here is the answer I got:
"Yes, we can sell you the usb port as a part only for $25.00 + shipping. Place the order online for the full service repair, then email me your order number and I can change the order before it's processed."
But of course it requires the skill and tools of soldering.
For whatever reason, my pin became bent in my mini usb port on my phone. It bends down to the right and my phone will no longer charge from my car charger, but does charge from the ac adapter and does charge and sync via usb (thank goodness).
I called ATT for a replacement phone and they told me that this is not covered under warranty. Oh man was I steamed. I told the rep that this was not my fault but was due to faulty manufacturing. I explained that the pin must sustain hundreds if not thousands of events of being plugged and unplugged as the phone must be charged daily due to low battery life. I've only had the phone for 6 weeks. How could this be my fault? So, after much arguing, he agreed to set up the exchange, but warned me that HTC upon receiving the phone may have my account charged $450 stating that this was user induced and not covered under warranty.
Can you all believe this?
Same problem here
Same here, maybe worse
Since I had a Hermes I had problem with this connector. It is not very durable, especially if you use plugged head-sets with the phone in your pocket.
It happened that my kaiser stopped charging properly in the mais, I had to leave it with something forcing from below for it to work : )
Then one day the worst happened, the plastic bit around the pins came off, and it bent, and trying to fix it broke.
end of the story, since 13th of december I gave it back to tmobile and I'm waiting for it to be fixed. They also told me that tmobile could not consider that as been defect. That connector is the ****tiest thing ever!!! How can that be my fault???? Anyway, I have insurance that I can rely on as a last resort...
Going again to the shop to check if there is any news about my telephone.
Meanwhile they try to push a G1 to me, no way...
regards to all
Emerson
echofloripa said:
Since I had a Hermes I had problem with this connector. It is not very durable, especially if you use plugged head-sets with the phone in your pocket.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To make the long story short, I took it to the shop, they send to repair, then it came back with a dodgy power button, as they had changed the WHOLE board!!! Send it back to repair, came still a bit weird button, the manager then gave me a new Kaiser, nice end
Related
hi, all. there is a rumor going around that the tilt will have problems if we frequently use non-original charger or usb cable (the one came with tilt) to charge the phone or transfer data such as causing the tilt not functioning or possibly burn out the device/battery, is that true??? do we always use the original usb cable and charger for charging the ATT tilt or transfering data? cuz I m currently using a usb car adapter to charge the tilt. I m really scare of it if this rumor is true. I don't want my tilt get burnt out. Please confirm or disconfirm it.. many thx
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Rudegar said:
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the confirmation. seriously, I didn't believe that a usb cable will cause such serious problems since there is only minor difference in the original cable and a regular usb cable. they all look the same internally except for the terminal shape.
as an extra safety precaution, i wouldn't start the car with the tilt plugged in. might be nothing, might be something. once the car is running then i'd plug the tilt in....
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Don't plug the phone in while the moon is out and the planets are aligned, it could cause the charger to spike and then brike your phone. j/k
My buddy had a problem with his USB. I think he put in a funky cable and it bent the connectors that are in the mini usb hole. Careful careful.
I would have to agree with that any usb be fine but be careful. When I first got my tilt awhile back I got this free usb car charger with it. It worked fine but something broke on the inside of it cause i could hear rattling inside. Prob a chip or something to tell the charger to stop charging if batttery is full. Well long story short I fried my usb connection and could not charge my phone or sync it. End up exchanging my Tilt out for a new one.
I am using the same USB cable to charge and sync since my Cingular 8125. I never charge using AC power.
As for car chargers, here is a simple way to check for potential power surges during starting:
1) Turn your key to "ON" but don't actually crank it. Let the radio come on and start playing. Now start the engine. Did your radio cut off during ignition?
-If Yes, unplug devices before starting because your car is not wired to supply continuous power to its outlets.
2) With your car off, and the key removed, plug in your phone. Does it start charging?
-If No, wait until the engine is running before plugging in your phone.
I am able to keep my phone connected at all times because as part of my ~$2000 audio upgrade, I also added an industrial-grade circuit breaker (not a fuse, an actual circuit breaker) between my battery and the inside of the car. In 4 years of running it, I have yet to stress it enough to pop.
Oh nice, I haven't seen too many breakers in a car. Saves on those uber expensive fuses.
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
I bought a sweet 3 in 1 charger kit from frys for 20 dolla..
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Be jealous it's ok!
http://www.wirelessemporium.com/pro...-1-mobile-phone-charger-motorola-razr2-v9.asp
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Of course store guys are going to say that. That's what HTC says. And Store Guys are nothing but Puppets who read papers given to them by corporate and they recite them. Plus they can charge you more, there for make more money, if they sell you a OEM Charger then a "compatible" charger.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_ExtUSB
Plus the cable I got with my Tilt works just like a Standard USB cable so I don't think there is an issue. But what I'd like to see is the Numbers. Using the "HTC USB Sync cable" and a standard USB cable what amps are being sent. And What does the Device Prefer?
It can't use the name mini usb if it's not mini usb. I have a zippy belkin mini usb and it works greeeeat.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just make sure that your car charger has a fuse. If needed, change the fuse to a lower type (one that is just above the recommended for the Tilt, .5a is what I think it draws at). This will protect it from spikes when you start the car.
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used so many different types of USB cables and/or chargers on my Tilt. I have not once had an issue. Just make sure the power ratings are correct and you're good.
Whilst I normally subscribe to the view that the HTC branded part is no better than a decent quality 3rd party part, I have had issues with non-HTC chargers.
I manage the BlackBerries at work, and have tried numerous BB miniUSB chargers (The one with the cord hard wired and the one which is effectively a mains plug to female USB) and neither work with my Kaiser.
I also had issues with car cigarette lighter to USB adapters. As soon as I obtained an official HTC car charger, all the problems went away.
Scott_F said:
...
I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't supply more current then the device can consume. The number on the charger just shows the highest value of a current the charger can produce without dropping the voltage.
I bought a Cell phone & USB charging kit from BestBuy today and my Tilt got fried when I connected it to this charger after the car had already started. I just noticed the charger output is 5.3V 0.5A whereas the battery pack is only 3.7V ???
hey improtant question. i think that the usb port in the kaiser actually dose get messed up using other chargers. i belive this becouse i used to be able to charge with any charger like some of you but now only htc's charger works. and that sucks but whatever the bad part is the headphones downt work any more. cany any one else that has to use htc's charger confirm that the headphones no longer work?
I've seen issues with various chargers (including one for the Dopod 838pro, Motorolla, and no-name car chargers), where I've seen it not activate the charging mode on the PDA intermittently. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to conclusively rule out that the HTC original chargers will work 100% of the time either, since that particular Tilt unit wasn't mine.
Also for some reason, I've had this accessory fail to connect to the headphones port after using it for a while (with a car charger connected). Fortunately, i had bought a few (for myself and others), and the port on the HTC is still working. So maybe you can try another headphone accessory and see if it's really the port on the HTC that is dead.
From my personal experience, testing, and reading on these forums, it appears that there are three conditions that need to be satisfied for reliable use of the USB port:
First - The Mechanical Fit
Standard mini-USB connecters DO NOT fit the same as the HTC extended USB implementation. To address this, I use the HTC signal splitter (headphone+charger/sync) on almost all standard USB cables for chargeing. It's fully compliant with the HTC in all ways and has added benefits. (see below)
Second - Pinout
The charging circuit in the Tilt (and others) can be finicky with regard to whether or not it works using a standard USB cable. The HTC splitter solves that and allows slow charging from virtually any USB compliant source. I also have the adapter from http://www.pocketpctechs.com/ in my car that even allows you to select the fast charge or slow charge pinout via a switch. (VERY COOL) This works great because I'm usually looking for the fast charge in the car. (Note... fast charge is disabled when transferring data via USB)
Third - Electrical Spec
Voltage is 5V for all USB outputs. Spikes generated in a car are pretty tough to transmit past the step down circuit/ic in the auto USB power adapters. I have never heard of a device being damaged by a spike from the car via one of these adapters. The chip itself would fail to open before frying the USB power client (aka the Phone).
Current draw for these phones is 0.5A for slow charging and around 1A+ for fast charging. This is determined by the pinout of the cable you are using. Slow charge is the default on all data type cables. Some cables sold as "charging cables" enable the fast charge. (The PPC Techs cable has the switch to do this) I recommend using at least 750mA chargers to allow the phone to have enough current to run the gps, bluetooth, etc with the screen brightness turned up and still have a small excess trickle to charge the battery.
I hope this summary helps a bit.
Cheers!
Hello Group
My Kaiser has stopped charging via a wall charger. I woke up this morning, and the battery had not charged at all
Some notes
-This problem occurs with 2 different chargers from 2 different outlets
-The device does show the charging indicators (lights and icons) even though it isn't charging
-The device does charge on PC USB port
-The device does charge on the car charger
-No visual bending of the USB pin
I've searched forums, and although I can find references to the opposite issue (wall power OK, USB power or car power NG), I can't seem to find any reference to what I'm seeing. My apologies to the group if I've missed any previous thread regarding this.
Thanks to all who help.
hello, strange problem. have you powered off the phone, pull out battery and try again, see if that might help
lupe
overhaulengines said:
hello, strange problem. have you powered off the phone, pull out battery and try again, see if that might help
lupe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, and I have removed and re-inserted the battery.
I thought this also might have to do with a battery going bad, but from what I understand a wall charger gives more power than a usb port, so, again, if that were the case I'd think the opposite would be true
And I did find the thread on some Kaisers are eating up a lot of idle current, but after standby BatteryStatus/HomeScreen PlusPlus says just 1 ma
It sounds like your wall charger has gone bad. It may provide enough current to light up the charge LED, but it certainly doesn't have enough power to charge the battery. Try another wall charger- they all work the same way. I have a number of USB-mini devices and they all interchange for charging.
lsica said:
My Kaiser has stopped charging via a wall charger. I woke up this morning, and the battery had not charged at all
Some notes
-This problem occurs with 2 different chargers from 2 different outlets
-The device does show the charging indicators (lights and icons) even though it isn't charging
-The device does charge on PC USB port
-The device does charge on the car charger
-No visual bending of the USB pin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For what it's worth, you are NOT alone! The EXACT same thing has been happening to me on and off now for the past several months. At first, I thought it was the wall charger (I have 3 iGo chargers); however, ALL 3 of them failed to charge. I can understand one them failing, but ALL 3? No way. In my case, the car charger wasn't working either (it's also from iGo).
I ended up having to charge by USB. I eventually thought it was a battery problem, so I bought a new battery.
That worked...until the problem re-appeared again. The bottom line for me right now is that every now and then the wall charging does not work. So it will work fine for some time and then it will not, and then it starts to work again, etc. This erratic behavior happens with both batteries.
The duration of the wall charging working/not working is not fixed, I have found. For example, I have gone a couple of months of it charging fine and then it stops. At other times, it has been as short as a day. In any case, I usually find out about the problem in the morning, when I still see the amber charging light.
I'm convinced it's a Tilt problem.
I've loaded HomeScreenPlus to monitor current draw, and have seen the following:
-One wall charger is showing positive current (negative draw) SOMETIMES, and during those times it does charge the phone. This unit also makes the charge light turn off and on when I jiggle the plugs or cable. Obviously this charger is just broken.
-Another charger does not turn off/on the charge light or current draw when the wire is jiggled, but also never shows a positive current on the phone. This is an IGo charger, and based on previous posts here I'm thinking they just don't supply enough current to charge the phone. in other words, they suck
Any one have recomendations for a replacement wall charger for my Tilt?
i had the same issue with my htc tytn. no charger worked well for more than 5 minutes, until i got an official htc charger from my wifes shadow... now i use it because it works... and she uses the 3rd party one that came with my hermes when i bought it used... it charges her smart phone just fine, i assume beause it requires less juice? I dont know, but get a official htc branded charger... black berries have the same issue after they start getting a little old... probably something to due with wear and tear on resistors of some sort?
Found a charger that works
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2935909
although I expect any ac to usb power adapter that supplies enough current will do. You just need to use your Kaiser/Tilt usb sync cable with it
I got exactly same problem for my Moto Q.
Tried several charger that worked before. Now, none of them works.
Here is the solution.
From www dot heberts dot net/motorola-q-wasnt-charging-via-usb
Start → Settings → Connections → USB to PC. I make “Enable advanced network functionality” on and off, and it works.
szniwawa said:
Tried several charger that worked before. Now, none of them works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Kaiser
- Charges via AC
- Charges via Doc
- Does not Charge vis USB
- Does not charge via Car Charger
But if I use an "audio Adaptor" which has usbMini Input it will charge whatever i plug in!!
Weird as hell.
Regards
Mo
I bought one of these from fleebay and it works a treat with ANY charger I plug into it.
HTC Multifunction Audio Cable YC A300
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Regards
Mo
I have the HTC orginal car charger with Mini-USB connector. This car charger has and intelligent chip "IC" to prevent overheating when charge is 100%
Now, HD2 has a MICRO connector. My question is, if I use it with a mini-to-micro converter, will this "IC" feature continue working?
Talking about this:
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And this:
wat, IC stands for integrated circuit.
Also, the charging mechanism to prevent overcharging or damage to batteries is on the device (phone) not the adapter.
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Hello,i've the same thing and it works fine . All pins are connected in the adaptator .
pckshd said:
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no it's the phone that's drawing the current, not the adapter. Adapter is a "dumb" servant that serves current upon request.
the converter is just a wiring converter so again ther'es no intelligence involved.
Thank you!
I have 2 of that EXACT converters shown in the photo above... IT DOES NOT WORK!!!
For some reason, my phone will not charge when I use that adaptor... I also bought a Motorola one which works well
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
pckshd said:
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup That one works fine and data works also... you can charge and sync with it
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Guys,
I use Motorola P513 microUSB car charger. It works like a charm. After fully charged HD2 disconnects from it so there's no possibility to overheating. I really recommend it. An it looks fancy too
http://www.motorola.com/Consumers/U...gers/P513-microUSB-Car-Charger-89143N-US-EN-2
Price about $14 in Poland
psdos said:
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... 1 have two of those and they both wont charge... not in car, via charger or anywhere else.... I was so pissed off as I got two of them... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
THe one showing in the picture... when I plug it on the cable with the other end in the cigarette lighter adaptor, the cigaretter indicator light goes out on that end as if a circuit has been cut.... this happens even without anything plugged in and happens with both adaptors I bought... nothing charges also.... pissed me off!
from what i see that is also a surge protector. 8v to 3v, being a surge protector, it has a capacitor inside, and that will naturally block all data connection.
eskasi said:
... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Som30ne said:
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MicroUSB-Adapter-RAZR2-SKN6252/dp/B001EJFZ5G
This is the one... as long as it looks like this... I am using it right now as I type this
Thanks for the reply.
I tried checking where and how they ship - and (as in many other cases) it seems they only shim within the US.
Since Im not in the US . . .
Is there any other one ?
About the comment that says - "as long as it looks like this" - well - I saw several of them, and as I mentioned in my previous post - they specify that they (the ones I saw) only charges the device, and when I asked the seller - they aslo claimed that it's only for charging, and does not transfer data.
(maybe they look the same on the outside, but the wiring is different ? - I wonder)
Be careful.
By the time you plug a mini USB plug into such an micro adapter, the potential leverage on the phone / micro socket will be quite considerable!
Why? What do you mean exactly?
The above one piece adaptor together with the charger's Mini USB plug is similarly rigid & I'm guessing about 2½ to 3 inches long - maybe 10 to 12 times the length of the actual micro socket! Some 10:1 leverage ratio. Maybe 3 times as much as without an adaptor.
I doubt that the design spec of a USB micro socket was ever designed to withstand the potential force that even mild accidental input leverage applied at a right angle would exert, on conversion to output leverage, on the phone's socket. For example, the leads tend to be 1 metre and are quite restricting. with the lead at right angles to the phone, 'testing' the cables length, the 'moment of force' (technical term) applied is likely to exceed the the design spec of the socket many fold.
I am suggesting there is a risk of separating the socket from the phone's chassis and/or its electrical connections to the printed circuit board within the phone.
At the vary least, due to the cables inherent stiffness, over a period of time the phones micro socket will get enlarged / bell shaped simply from small gentle leverage movements. IE. whilst USB connected, simply picking up the phone, messaging, or making a call. Eventually electrical / mechanical connections will gradually fail.
To reduce, but not eliminate this effect, I would suggest an adaptor cable as opposed to a one piece adaptor.
(Think I've waffled a bit here, but hope I've conveyed what I mean)
So i accidently plugged in the usb the wrong way and the phone shut off. Have tried every button combination and holding down the powerbutton numerous times with no success. Led light doesn't light up and have tried leaving it in the charger for various hours and used different chargers. My next step was to disassemble the phone and hope a battery pull did the trick but that didn't work. However when I disconnect the black battery connector and plug in a usb the red led lights up for about 15 seconds and dissapears.
anyone know any possible solutions? I think my battery might have fried
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Is there a way to jump the battery and hope that that works? I've jumped plenty of batteries on phones with removable batteries but I'm not sure if the Z has metal contacts for negative and positve
no one?
normally any device that has DC input (like usb) is secured with diodes so that even when a faulty charger is connected it doesn't fry. But that's my electrical knowledge speaking. Please reply when you found out what the problem is
laandennis said:
normally any device that has DC input (like usb) is secured with diodes so that even when a faulty charger is connected it doesn't fry. But that's my electrical knowledge speaking. Please reply when you found out what the problem is
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My One X did fry when I connected it to a car charger not too long ago
still no luck on this phone however
How did you even manage to connect the usb the wrong way? lol
wawyed said:
How did you even manage to connect the usb the wrong way? lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
**** happens lol what sucks is that as soon as it made contact the phone turned off
adolfo778 said:
My One X did fry when I connected it to a car charger not too long ago
still no luck on this phone however
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thx for the info but maybe you had another problem with you charger and the transformation from 12V to 5V was bad, that can't be controlled with only a diode. Or maybe your One X hadn't any security internally because the manufacturer wanted to save money on that component / no place anymore to put it in the phone.
Think I have something similar..... Connected to car charger, led didn't go red,pushed charger in moved wire in phone charger goes off, phone won't start tried all button combos.
Sad bit is I only just got phone 3 days ago:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
Sent from my C5303 using xda premium
Can anyone else comment on this? I recently did this and my Xperia Z will not turn on. Would replacing the battery work or is the damage related to the other internals?
Do you see any damage to the usb port?
ngvuanh said:
Do you see any damage to the usb port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I don't see any damage to the USB port.
I did the same to my xperia Z1 (reverse biased it using usb and 5 volts wires) The battery however had charge so as soon as I connected the phone restarted and could not charge any more. Any solution please ????
Might be an old post but I had the same problem. I was fixing a cable (18V) and I wanted the range the cable in the corner. I was so lazy to use a screw driver or something else. So I used what I have in my hand: The jack cable, plugged into my phone. So I used the bare part of the cable (Don't ask me why, I don't know). I don't remember if my phone restarted, but he was fine. But not my jack connector. When I plug an earphone it says that my earphones are not recognized. So I change it (by my self) But still the same problem...
Seems like the problem comes from somewhere else.
do you found the fried parts of your phone or fixed it ?
i have same issue today i connected an experimental cable (v+ was placed into gnd pin and gnd to v+) to my lumia 625 and it flashes then shut off immediately now it show no sign of life not charging not turning on
anyone knows what parts have been fried ?
Hi,
A maniac stole my phone and almost destroyed it. No more screen. Sadly I had some photos from my kids, birthday party and did not backup them :/
When I pluged the phone to a windows computer I see Pixel 7 on the device manager. I think I activated the developper mode though
I went to my local IT strore and he tried with an USB-C-HDMI adapter to see the screen on a computer screen, nothing appears.
Any hint ?
Thanks !
PS : Next move, buy a new pixel 7, plug a mouse and make the same movement to click the right digit and get in the phtone :/
Do u try to transfer data to new phone using USB cable?
One solution is to buy a replacement screen and connect it. You don't have to install it, just let it dangle.
What is your screen lock? If it's alphanumeric you can just use a keyboard.
You need to see what USB interfaces are active. MTP? ADB?
I wrote something to let a master Android login swipe a slave Android, see: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/accessing-my-phone-with-a-dead-screen.4542763/post-88013171
I try to save some pictures in DCIM with an USB cable to my computer. Should I try with another phone ? ???
A replacement screen is about 250 €
How do I know which interface is active ?
In your solution the slave Android seems to have adb active.
hubertes said:
In your solution the slave Android seems to have adb active.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the slave has to simply support OTG (which I'm sure the P7 does).
The master is acting like an absolute digitizer (and not a relative mouse) and also a keyboard.
If ADB is not on, this allows you to navigate to Settings and turn it on.
It's not simple or easy.
You'd need a rooted master of any random model.
You'll probably want a 3rd Android to test the master Android.
You'd need reference screenshots from some helpful P7 owner.
The video shows how, with a BT keyboard paired to the master Android.
There is the additional problem of there being no "hot key" for settings.
You'd have to remember where it was on your launcher.
OTOH, if you did have ADB already enabled all you have to do is unlock the P7.
Even if the screen is black the touch sensing may/may not be broken.
Use this utility https://ftdichip.com/utilities/#MicrosoftUSBView (or lsusb -v if you're on Linux).
Find your device in the left pane and copy/paste the text in the right.
(You can redact your serial number.)
It's really nice to help me like u do
Sadly it seems that my destroyed pixel 7 stoped to send data to my computer. I don't see anything on my w$ devices.
Do someone know if the motherboard "starts" with only the battery pluged-in ?
Which pin should be active to start up ?
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Most devices that have a battery require a battery.
Batteries include a circuit board with the BMS (battery management system).
You're showing four contacts, quite a common setup.
One is for minus, one for plus, one usually for a 10k NTC thermistor to minus.
The fourth could be a simple resistor as identification of the battery pack or a one wire communication to some monitoring on the battery pack.
I'd need a better photo to say anything.
Is that your board? Did you remove it from the case?
You should probably just try to run things normally with the battery connected.
Ok, I often run Androids on a power supply but it requires care and a bit of know-how.
The advantage is that you can see if/how the device is booting.
I think this is a Moto E6 booting up, but I forget.
Found 0 ohm between contactor 1 and 4 when I push the power button in regard to those pins, so it should be it.
I still have 10 % hope, but the battery wont charge anymore...
NB : motherboard photo is from here
Did you check the battery for voltage?
With 99% certainty the two power pins are the outside two.
Is it possible that more than the screen was damaged?
It seems more likely that without an active screen you left it on until the battery died?
Heck, this thing is practically brand new.
Edit: Huh? I saw the video. The battery is connected on a mezzanine connector. I thought that first photo you posted was showing the battery connector.
It sucks that apparently the P7 only natively supports "GoogleCast" and not a Type C alt-mode video.
You can't get a slightly damaged (but working) screen from a repair place? You could just plug it in. Even just to borrow one.
The battery pion is so uncommon(mezzaine connector ?), I d'ont know where to make the measure :/
Yes it is possible, like I said it was a maniqac who destroyed my phone
The phone was 80 % full and left for a week end on the ground under water but fliped back (no water on the motherboard)
Yeah, my phone was 2 month old :/
NO video possible through usb C then ?
The screen costs approximatively 250 €. The maniac destroyed it ion purpose (connector screen riped of)
So the screen was actually removed?
I presume that you've tried to charge it?
Do you have one of those little USB adapters that measure voltage/current?
Can you see if it's trying to charge?
You won't be able to probe/measure anything on the mezzanine connector easily.
Since you're not sure of what is working, this is one of those cases where measuring current on the USB and the voltage/current on the battery are your first steps.
You might want to CAREFULLY remove the battery and take off the tape at the top of the battery until you can see the two tabs of the actual battery.
Be very careful not to short anything!
Do you have an adjustable bench power supply?
Hi,
Don't have those tester. Went to my it store, nothing's charging whern pluged in :/ I did remove the tape, but don't see any +/- tabs :/
could I try with the wireless charger ?
I could have such a bench in my highschool yes.
hubertes said:
I did remove the tape, but don't see any +/- tabs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you remove enough layers of tape (only on the TOP of the battery where the flex circuit goes in) you should see some shiny (somewhat) flexible tabs about 5mm wide.
Don't bend them too much and break them.