Database Develop

tilt not charging with sync cable but with power

Has anyone else experienced this? My tilt will not charge if I use a cable that is a retractable charge/sync cable. The cables work because I use them with other devices and they charge fine. If I plug in my power cable, the tilt charges. If I use a portable battery charger, it charges. If I plug the tilt into the sync cable that came with it (not retractable and plugged into a usb port), it both charges and syncs. But it will not charge/sync if I use the sync/charge retractable cables. Like I said before, they both work because I use them for other devices.
I know this worked prior to cooking my own ROM. But now it does not. I'm not for sure if the two are related.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Alan

Firstly, make sure that under Settings\System\Power\Advanced that the box labeled "When device is on, do not charge the battery when connected to PC" is NOT checked.
If That box is NOT checked, it should work.
Secondly, & most unfortunately, check to see if the USB port on your device is bent, curved slightly, or is slightly lower on the right side.
If it is, then you've got problems & may need to RMA your device

Mine use to do that. It would charge on the AC charger, but would not charge
on a car charger. I eventually had AT&T replace it under warranty.
Take a look at the two pictures below. The top one is what mine looked like
and the bottom one is the new one.
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A RMA may not be required, but the truth is, it is even quite possible that the cable is not capable of providing enought power for the kaiser to charge from. From my own experiance of retractable cables I have seen that they were not able to power my USB DVD-RW. While another, single, normal cable was more than capable. Id just like to add that the DVD-RW was meant to be only powered by USB. So try a different normal cable first before RMA. This as well the above posters information should fix your problems. If this helps, your welcome in advanced.
Adil AS

@ p51d007
Great Pic Post! I can't tell you how many people have argued with me stating "If the USB is damaged it won't charge at all, anywhere, no matter what".
I certainly know that if it's a curved USB or slightly lowered on the right side it can definitely cause a loss of only car & PC-USB charge because it happened to me. People still argue though saying that's immpossible.

As another poster suggested, try another cable or try your cable on another device.
Im personally using an insten retractable mini USB cable, and I have no problems syncing/charging with it.

Erg. I looked at the usb port and I indeed had a pin bent all the way down. I tried to straighten but of course it broke. I purchased through Amazon (with a two year contract) so I don't think it came with a warranty. So that sucks.
Can anyone recommend someone to repair (close to Houston, TX would be nice ? Or would it be easy to repair it myself by replacing the port?
Thanks!
Alan

I have an unusual problem which is even worse!! My kaiser ONLY charges from the USB port on my computer. I've tried 2 or 3 car chargers now and the orange light comes on for a bit then goes off. Mains charger won't work either - orange light stays on but the battery level continues to decrease. It's a real bummer if I go away anywhere as my phone just eventually runs out of charge!!

Yeah, same thing going on here... my wall charger works when plugged into the phone, but I have a desktop stand charger that stopped working a few days ago... and I have the same thing going on with my phone's port...

I have trouble getting Activesync to pick it up. Usually says "must install 4.5" on my phone. I can usually delete the partnership and reboot and it works, but my pin is slightly bent.
Sucks.

where can i find the pin to fix this myself. Just the part. I looked at mines today and its slightly bent maybe thats why its it doesn't charge. I will look online in google.com but let me know if anything.

You can get it from pocketpctechs.com. I asked them the same question and here is the answer I got:
"Yes, we can sell you the usb port as a part only for $25.00 + shipping. Place the order online for the full service repair, then email me your order number and I can change the order before it's processed."
But of course it requires the skill and tools of soldering.

For whatever reason, my pin became bent in my mini usb port on my phone. It bends down to the right and my phone will no longer charge from my car charger, but does charge from the ac adapter and does charge and sync via usb (thank goodness).
I called ATT for a replacement phone and they told me that this is not covered under warranty. Oh man was I steamed. I told the rep that this was not my fault but was due to faulty manufacturing. I explained that the pin must sustain hundreds if not thousands of events of being plugged and unplugged as the phone must be charged daily due to low battery life. I've only had the phone for 6 weeks. How could this be my fault? So, after much arguing, he agreed to set up the exchange, but warned me that HTC upon receiving the phone may have my account charged $450 stating that this was user induced and not covered under warranty.
Can you all believe this?

Same problem here

Same here, maybe worse
Since I had a Hermes I had problem with this connector. It is not very durable, especially if you use plugged head-sets with the phone in your pocket.
It happened that my kaiser stopped charging properly in the mais, I had to leave it with something forcing from below for it to work : )
Then one day the worst happened, the plastic bit around the pins came off, and it bent, and trying to fix it broke.
end of the story, since 13th of december I gave it back to tmobile and I'm waiting for it to be fixed. They also told me that tmobile could not consider that as been defect. That connector is the ****tiest thing ever!!! How can that be my fault???? Anyway, I have insurance that I can rely on as a last resort...
Going again to the shop to check if there is any news about my telephone.
Meanwhile they try to push a G1 to me, no way...
regards to all
Emerson

echofloripa said:
Since I had a Hermes I had problem with this connector. It is not very durable, especially if you use plugged head-sets with the phone in your pocket.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To make the long story short, I took it to the shop, they send to repair, then it came back with a dodgy power button, as they had changed the WHOLE board!!! Send it back to repair, came still a bit weird button, the manager then gave me a new Kaiser, nice end

ATT tilt - usb RISK

hi, all. there is a rumor going around that the tilt will have problems if we frequently use non-original charger or usb cable (the one came with tilt) to charge the phone or transfer data such as causing the tilt not functioning or possibly burn out the device/battery, is that true??? do we always use the original usb cable and charger for charging the ATT tilt or transfering data? cuz I m currently using a usb car adapter to charge the tilt. I m really scare of it if this rumor is true. I don't want my tilt get burnt out. Please confirm or disconfirm it.. many thx

usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe

Rudegar said:
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the confirmation. seriously, I didn't believe that a usb cable will cause such serious problems since there is only minor difference in the original cable and a regular usb cable. they all look the same internally except for the terminal shape.

as an extra safety precaution, i wouldn't start the car with the tilt plugged in. might be nothing, might be something. once the car is running then i'd plug the tilt in....

i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.

Don't plug the phone in while the moon is out and the planets are aligned, it could cause the charger to spike and then brike your phone. j/k
My buddy had a problem with his USB. I think he put in a funky cable and it bent the connectors that are in the mini usb hole. Careful careful.

I would have to agree with that any usb be fine but be careful. When I first got my tilt awhile back I got this free usb car charger with it. It worked fine but something broke on the inside of it cause i could hear rattling inside. Prob a chip or something to tell the charger to stop charging if batttery is full. Well long story short I fried my usb connection and could not charge my phone or sync it. End up exchanging my Tilt out for a new one.

I am using the same USB cable to charge and sync since my Cingular 8125. I never charge using AC power.
As for car chargers, here is a simple way to check for potential power surges during starting:
1) Turn your key to "ON" but don't actually crank it. Let the radio come on and start playing. Now start the engine. Did your radio cut off during ignition?
-If Yes, unplug devices before starting because your car is not wired to supply continuous power to its outlets.
2) With your car off, and the key removed, plug in your phone. Does it start charging?
-If No, wait until the engine is running before plugging in your phone.
I am able to keep my phone connected at all times because as part of my ~$2000 audio upgrade, I also added an industrial-grade circuit breaker (not a fuse, an actual circuit breaker) between my battery and the inside of the car. In 4 years of running it, I have yet to stress it enough to pop.

Oh nice, I haven't seen too many breakers in a car. Saves on those uber expensive fuses.

The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.

I bought a sweet 3 in 1 charger kit from frys for 20 dolla..
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Be jealous it's ok!
http://www.wirelessemporium.com/pro...-1-mobile-phone-charger-motorola-razr2-v9.asp

Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Of course store guys are going to say that. That's what HTC says. And Store Guys are nothing but Puppets who read papers given to them by corporate and they recite them. Plus they can charge you more, there for make more money, if they sell you a OEM Charger then a "compatible" charger.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_ExtUSB
Plus the cable I got with my Tilt works just like a Standard USB cable so I don't think there is an issue. But what I'd like to see is the Numbers. Using the "HTC USB Sync cable" and a standard USB cable what amps are being sent. And What does the Device Prefer?

It can't use the name mini usb if it's not mini usb. I have a zippy belkin mini usb and it works greeeeat.

stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just make sure that your car charger has a fuse. If needed, change the fuse to a lower type (one that is just above the recommended for the Tilt, .5a is what I think it draws at). This will protect it from spikes when you start the car.
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used so many different types of USB cables and/or chargers on my Tilt. I have not once had an issue. Just make sure the power ratings are correct and you're good.

Whilst I normally subscribe to the view that the HTC branded part is no better than a decent quality 3rd party part, I have had issues with non-HTC chargers.
I manage the BlackBerries at work, and have tried numerous BB miniUSB chargers (The one with the cord hard wired and the one which is effectively a mains plug to female USB) and neither work with my Kaiser.
I also had issues with car cigarette lighter to USB adapters. As soon as I obtained an official HTC car charger, all the problems went away.

Scott_F said:
...
I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't supply more current then the device can consume. The number on the charger just shows the highest value of a current the charger can produce without dropping the voltage.

I bought a Cell phone & USB charging kit from BestBuy today and my Tilt got fried when I connected it to this charger after the car had already started. I just noticed the charger output is 5.3V 0.5A whereas the battery pack is only 3.7V ???

hey improtant question. i think that the usb port in the kaiser actually dose get messed up using other chargers. i belive this becouse i used to be able to charge with any charger like some of you but now only htc's charger works. and that sucks but whatever the bad part is the headphones downt work any more. cany any one else that has to use htc's charger confirm that the headphones no longer work?

I've seen issues with various chargers (including one for the Dopod 838pro, Motorolla, and no-name car chargers), where I've seen it not activate the charging mode on the PDA intermittently. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to conclusively rule out that the HTC original chargers will work 100% of the time either, since that particular Tilt unit wasn't mine.
Also for some reason, I've had this accessory fail to connect to the headphones port after using it for a while (with a car charger connected). Fortunately, i had bought a few (for myself and others), and the port on the HTC is still working. So maybe you can try another headphone accessory and see if it's really the port on the HTC that is dead.

From my personal experience, testing, and reading on these forums, it appears that there are three conditions that need to be satisfied for reliable use of the USB port:
First - The Mechanical Fit
Standard mini-USB connecters DO NOT fit the same as the HTC extended USB implementation. To address this, I use the HTC signal splitter (headphone+charger/sync) on almost all standard USB cables for chargeing. It's fully compliant with the HTC in all ways and has added benefits. (see below)
Second - Pinout
The charging circuit in the Tilt (and others) can be finicky with regard to whether or not it works using a standard USB cable. The HTC splitter solves that and allows slow charging from virtually any USB compliant source. I also have the adapter from http://www.pocketpctechs.com/ in my car that even allows you to select the fast charge or slow charge pinout via a switch. (VERY COOL) This works great because I'm usually looking for the fast charge in the car. (Note... fast charge is disabled when transferring data via USB)
Third - Electrical Spec
Voltage is 5V for all USB outputs. Spikes generated in a car are pretty tough to transmit past the step down circuit/ic in the auto USB power adapters. I have never heard of a device being damaged by a spike from the car via one of these adapters. The chip itself would fail to open before frying the USB power client (aka the Phone).
Current draw for these phones is 0.5A for slow charging and around 1A+ for fast charging. This is determined by the pinout of the cable you are using. Slow charge is the default on all data type cables. Some cables sold as "charging cables" enable the fast charge. (The PPC Techs cable has the switch to do this) I recommend using at least 750mA chargers to allow the phone to have enough current to run the gps, bluetooth, etc with the screen brightness turned up and still have a small excess trickle to charge the battery.
I hope this summary helps a bit.
Cheers!

Brodit Active car holder

Just installed the Brodit active car holder. Holds the phone securely, charges it and looks nice. What more could one want ?
http://www.brodit.com/?main=searchb...-94CF-A04BFE025E64&showTypeHidden=0&showID=43
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Does it have the standard car holder interface with the 4 small blocks, as shown in this picture?

Let me answer this question myself: No it doesn't have the standardized interface. Is has a tilt & swivel mounting with a 4 hole plate to screw it onto something. I ordered one and screwed it to my dashboard.

what output does it have?... like Volts and Amps....
when you put the phone in isn't it a bit harder because of the microusb?... i'd go for one of these but i'm afraid that the microusb port will break with time (getting to loose)...

Hi,
I'm using the active holder already for several months now without any issues.
I also changed the plug to a USB instead of the cig to listen to the music on my storage card and it works absolutely perfect.
Joerg

schrej said:
Hi,
I also changed the plug to a USB instead of the cig to listen to the music on my storage card and it works absolutely perfect.
Joerg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what do you mean exactly?...
by the way... the cigplug version comes with a usb cable stuck in it or is it in one piece?...
and whate is with that molex adaptor?

ccezar2004 said:
what output does it have?... like Volts and Amps....
when you put the phone in isn't it a bit harder because of the microusb?... i'd go for one of these but i'm afraid that the microusb port will break with time (getting to loose)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
900 mA. I guess it outputs 5 V like any other charger or else I would have fried my HD2 .
Sliding in the phone is not easy at first. Not because of the micro USB jack but because the holder is tight. In order not to tilt or swivel it you need 2 hands to slide in the phone. That's the only disadvantage I could find: you can too easily alter the position you put your phone in. The advantages are:
It's very stable. No shaking phone.
It quickcharges. No slow draining of the battery then using the GPS and playing music at the same time.
It is not too big and looks fine in the car.
No leds or other shiny stuff to distract you constantly.
I think the cable is thick enough to withstand the normal abuse (sunlight, high temps, movement).
ccezar2004 said:
what do you mean exactly?...
by the way... the cigplug version comes with a usb cable stuck in it or is it in one piece?...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it's in 1 piece.

i think ițll go for one... active... i just have to find a way to hide the cable...
does anyone knows what is with the molex one?

i ordered an active holder... i have many doubts regarding the fact that every time i'll put tho phone in the holder it will charge... and i don't need it to charge every time... like when i go to work in the morning... a 20-30 min ride... won't this affect the battery over time?...
schrej ... give me more details about changing to usb and listening to music....

ccezar2004 said:
i ordered an active holder... i have many doubts regarding the fact that every time i'll put tho phone in the holder it will charge... and i don't need it to charge every time... like when i go to work in the morning... a 20-30 min ride... won't this affect the battery over time?...
schrej ... give me more details about changing to usb and listening to music....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
well I remembered a good explanation in a "Kaiser" thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=339263&highlight=brodit
It works the same way with the Leo.
Only difference: There's no more need to peel off the the rubber casing from the micro-usb-plug. Just remove the top plate as described, remove the mircro-usb plug incl. the car-charger, replace it by your micro-usb cable, reattach the top plate and there you go.
One more tip: insert the HD2 while adjusting the micro-usb plug and reattaching the top plate. This assures a perfect fit.
schrej

that was for the 3 in 1 adapter... no need with HD2 as it has separate audio jack...
in about 2-3 weeks i'll have my holder... to much time... but that's the way it is done here... once a month import...
i'll be bcak with photos and impressions...

I'm after one of these, whats it like rotated? Maybe a photo? Secure?

ccezar2004 said:
that was for the 3 in 1 adapter... no need with HD2 as it has separate audio jack...
in about 2-3 weeks i'll have my holder... to much time... but that's the way it is done here... once a month import...
i'll be bcak with photos and impressions...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't understand your point. You can use any cable you need as long as it has the micro-usb on one end.
I used a mirco-usb to usb cable and am now able to connect my HD2 directly with the USB of my radio. So HD2 2 ist charging and my radio recognizes the HD2 SD card as an external usb device and plays the music on the SD card.
schrej

I have this holder too, and a pro clip for my car, so it doesn't sits in the way while driving. it works perfectly and don't have any problems at all with it.
And regarding the molex question: this is the version without a cig plug, but with a solution to hide all your cables behind the dashboard and connect it to a power source there.

Brodit holder and Car Kit Mode
Has anyone succeeded in making the Brodit Active holder operate car kit mode - preferably by a registry tweak or the likes. In one of the other threads it's been suggested that by grounding pin 4 of the Micro USB it will automatically activate NaviPAnel the way the HTC car holder does. Has anyone tried this yet with another holder?

i just got mine... perfect!
will post some pics if i'll have the time...
LE: next I'll do something to hide the power cable...

there's only 1 problem. if you are using extended battery, it wont fit, does it?

i'm not planning to use one (that's the reason i got the active holder) and actually i think it will fit, as there is quite a large space remaining behind the phone

hmmm would be nice if there's a way to mod the other usb end to a external pack like sanyo 5500mah battery. then mount it to a bicycle.
does it connect straight to the 12v adaptor? or it has a USB type A head also?

straight to the cig plug...
now i wanna find a way to add a fix audio jack in the holder so when i put the phone in the holder to have it routed through auxiliary audio input on my stereo...

[USBHOST] DIY USB Host dongle

Problem, Samsung?
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Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
Pinout here. With the connector plugged into the Tab, and the Tab oriented with the chat camera on top and the connector on bottom, pin 1 is to the left of the connector.
Chop off the plug end of the extender, separate out the wires, cut / strip / tin. Cut off the shield. Slide on the plastic shroud for the dock plug and a piece of heat shrink for strain relief. Don't forget this or you'll have to undo the whole thing (like I did). You might also want to cut thin heat shrink to go around each wire to protect it from shorting at the connector pins.
Solder the two resistors in series and put them between pins 13 and 15. This tells the Tab to go into OTG host mode. Be creative. Surface mount parts might be better here.
Solder:
ground (black) to pin 1
green (D+) to pin 3
white (D-) to pin 4
red (+5V) to pin 6
Test this out before shrinking the pins by plugging into the Tab along with a USB key. If it works, you should get the message above.
Once it works, put the connector shield, spring clip, and shroud on.
All said and done, this comes out to about half the price of the Samsung adapter, but at the expense of some elbow grease and potential unreliability. I expect clones will be showing up on eBay someday though, so if I've done anything useful here it's to entice our friends in China to start their assembly lines.

Clean it up and start selling them imo.

mbh87 said:
Clean it up and start selling them imo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better?
Taken before I have to ugly it up with a bit of hot glue. The connector housing is too shallow to fit the resistors and make a good strain relief with heat shrink. I also noticed that the retainer ring that holds the housing together pops right off when you unplug the connector. A little super glue needs to go there too.

Nice job dude specially since they are taking forever to release the damn thing

Lol. This is awesome goodjob. Might have to try this out

Well played
I'll give this a shot

i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out

time_shock said:
i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will pay you infinity for that, give you my firstborn, whatever you want. But seriously, what use is a "media dock" if you can't charge while I are passing hdmi thru.
Back on topic, nice job OP, that is my new weekend project

Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?

nemir said:
Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, won't work. With this you won't get the 5V power from the tablet, and you won't have the resistor on the ID pin to tell it to go into OTG mode. I suppose you could provide your own 5V power to the device, and hack the kernel to force it into OTG. But that's probably as much trouble as building a cable anyway.

This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?

ericlmccormick said:
This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.

If you create a cable that charges the Tab while using it in host mode, you could probably pull the power off the charging cable instead of from the accessory pin.
If doing that, might want a selector switch or diode to keep current from flowing into the accessory pin.
I ordered a few of the 30pin connectors yesterday and I am starting my designing now for my "docking station". I am trying to figure out if I will have 1 or 4 USBs on it.

pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Omg thankyou so much, I've been waiting for this. i was missing the two 10 ohm resistors!!!!!
Already cut up a USB and galaxy cable trying this..
will try this when i get home. im at work. let you know what i find

pokey9000 said:
Problem, Samsung?
...
Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?

joedoe said:
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't have a 20k resistor on hand, and 20k isn't a common value in smaller resistor kits. The most readily available values in the 10k range are usually 10k, 22k, and 47k.

pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.

pokey9000 said:
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does HDMI share any of the same pins as the USB? I ask because I am gonna piece together a hub and then add an HDMI cable to that, and then plug that into the media dock, and then it will be a true dock. Just need to get power for charging involved in that mix

can you try hooking up an usb microphone? I'd like to see if they will work and how well. I have a samson go mic that I wouldnt mind using as a recording tool.

Doesnt the orginal galaxy tab's hdmi dock work on the 10.1 i saw vidos of it working on the google io version should be easy to add a switch and usb to it

Question Broken screen - access internal memory

Hi,
A maniac stole my phone and almost destroyed it. No more screen. Sadly I had some photos from my kids, birthday party and did not backup them :/
When I pluged the phone to a windows computer I see Pixel 7 on the device manager. I think I activated the developper mode though
I went to my local IT strore and he tried with an USB-C-HDMI adapter to see the screen on a computer screen, nothing appears.
Any hint ?
Thanks !
PS : Next move, buy a new pixel 7, plug a mouse and make the same movement to click the right digit and get in the phtone :/

Do u try to transfer data to new phone using USB cable?

One solution is to buy a replacement screen and connect it. You don't have to install it, just let it dangle.
What is your screen lock? If it's alphanumeric you can just use a keyboard.
You need to see what USB interfaces are active. MTP? ADB?
I wrote something to let a master Android login swipe a slave Android, see: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/accessing-my-phone-with-a-dead-screen.4542763/post-88013171

I try to save some pictures in DCIM with an USB cable to my computer. Should I try with another phone ? ???
A replacement screen is about 250 €
How do I know which interface is active ?
In your solution the slave Android seems to have adb active.

hubertes said:
In your solution the slave Android seems to have adb active.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the slave has to simply support OTG (which I'm sure the P7 does).
The master is acting like an absolute digitizer (and not a relative mouse) and also a keyboard.
If ADB is not on, this allows you to navigate to Settings and turn it on.
It's not simple or easy.
You'd need a rooted master of any random model.
You'll probably want a 3rd Android to test the master Android.
You'd need reference screenshots from some helpful P7 owner.
The video shows how, with a BT keyboard paired to the master Android.
There is the additional problem of there being no "hot key" for settings.
You'd have to remember where it was on your launcher.
OTOH, if you did have ADB already enabled all you have to do is unlock the P7.
Even if the screen is black the touch sensing may/may not be broken.
Use this utility https://ftdichip.com/utilities/#MicrosoftUSBView (or lsusb -v if you're on Linux).
Find your device in the left pane and copy/paste the text in the right.
(You can redact your serial number.)

It's really nice to help me like u do
Sadly it seems that my destroyed pixel 7 stoped to send data to my computer. I don't see anything on my w$ devices.
Do someone know if the motherboard "starts" with only the battery pluged-in ?
Which pin should be active to start up ?
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Most devices that have a battery require a battery.
Batteries include a circuit board with the BMS (battery management system).
You're showing four contacts, quite a common setup.
One is for minus, one for plus, one usually for a 10k NTC thermistor to minus.
The fourth could be a simple resistor as identification of the battery pack or a one wire communication to some monitoring on the battery pack.
I'd need a better photo to say anything.
Is that your board? Did you remove it from the case?
You should probably just try to run things normally with the battery connected.
Ok, I often run Androids on a power supply but it requires care and a bit of know-how.
The advantage is that you can see if/how the device is booting.
I think this is a Moto E6 booting up, but I forget.

Found 0 ohm between contactor 1 and 4 when I push the power button in regard to those pins, so it should be it.
I still have 10 % hope, but the battery wont charge anymore...
NB : motherboard photo is from here

Did you check the battery for voltage?
With 99% certainty the two power pins are the outside two.
Is it possible that more than the screen was damaged?
It seems more likely that without an active screen you left it on until the battery died?
Heck, this thing is practically brand new.
Edit: Huh? I saw the video. The battery is connected on a mezzanine connector. I thought that first photo you posted was showing the battery connector.
It sucks that apparently the P7 only natively supports "GoogleCast" and not a Type C alt-mode video.
You can't get a slightly damaged (but working) screen from a repair place? You could just plug it in. Even just to borrow one.

The battery pion is so uncommon(mezzaine connector ?), I d'ont know where to make the measure :/
Yes it is possible, like I said it was a maniqac who destroyed my phone
The phone was 80 % full and left for a week end on the ground under water but fliped back (no water on the motherboard)
Yeah, my phone was 2 month old :/
NO video possible through usb C then ?
The screen costs approximatively 250 €. The maniac destroyed it ion purpose (connector screen riped of)

So the screen was actually removed?
I presume that you've tried to charge it?
Do you have one of those little USB adapters that measure voltage/current?
Can you see if it's trying to charge?
You won't be able to probe/measure anything on the mezzanine connector easily.
Since you're not sure of what is working, this is one of those cases where measuring current on the USB and the voltage/current on the battery are your first steps.
You might want to CAREFULLY remove the battery and take off the tape at the top of the battery until you can see the two tabs of the actual battery.
Be very careful not to short anything!
Do you have an adjustable bench power supply?

Hi,
Don't have those tester. Went to my it store, nothing's charging whern pluged in :/ I did remove the tape, but don't see any +/- tabs :/
could I try with the wireless charger ?
I could have such a bench in my highschool yes.

hubertes said:
I did remove the tape, but don't see any +/- tabs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you remove enough layers of tape (only on the TOP of the battery where the flex circuit goes in) you should see some shiny (somewhat) flexible tabs about 5mm wide.
Don't bend them too much and break them.