WHere to fix my tilt?? - Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General

Well I messued up my USB port (thinking about sending it out to get repaired just for the resell value - and so I can mess with ROMS) any suggestions? Is there someone here on the forums that can replace the USB port professionally - I rather pay a forum member that is recognised than some SHOP - If not what shop do you all recommend (im in USA) don't want to go outside USA?

Well I started using an Exacto Knife and pushing pins around and everything seems perfect again. Works every time I plug it in for activesync and charges up with no jiggling the cable to make the pin touch. Though I still want to change the port if I can.. any recomendations?

If you're handy with small electronics, you can buy the port and replace the old one. Or you can send it into a repair shop. I would recommend PPC Techs (ppctechs.com) as they're quick and do great work.

Comp1demon said:
Well I started using an Exacto Knife and pushing pins around and everything seems perfect again. Works every time I plug it in for activesync and charges up with no jiggling the cable to make the pin touch. Though I still want to change the port if I can.. any recomendations?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Words of wisdom, " If it ain't broke , don't fix it "
Does this sound familiar to anyone? " It worked great, but I just wanted to make it a little better, and the exacto knife slipped and I cut the data ribbon to the LCD screen. Where can I buy a new screen? "

denco7 said:
Words of wisdom, " If it ain't broke , don't fix it "
Does this sound familiar to anyone? " It worked great, but I just wanted to make it a little better, and the exacto knife slipped and I cut the data ribbon to the LCD screen. Where can I buy a new screen? "
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea i guess I should leave it alone untill the USB port dont work EVERY TIME. Then i will send it for repair, PPC techs huh? - thanks for the heads up on that i'll look em up and keep em on the side just incase...

I've recently done the same thing. Except, this time I accidentally put my stylus in the usb port when I was pressing the reset key lolz. i just used the stylus to mess with it and now it charges in the computer but not the wall. so im still figuring with that part.

Related

Help!! Phone won't charge.

I tried to soft reset my tytn II in the dark, and accidently put the stylus into the usb/charging slot and somehow screwed up my phone. It will not charge, or connect with my computer. Any suggestions?
OMG! I did the same thing, but luckily i didn't do further damage except the copper parts become bent
HTC should have done something about this! i am sure many other users did the same
can u take it back to your supplier for warranty claim?
same problem here...
i could bend back the copper contacts with a WOODEN (!!) toothpick (dont steer around with metal in there....)
Looks like i tried to reset the device in darkness last night and fumbled around in the usb jack.
Damn... really bad position for the reset-button!
Same issue here-- though some chargers now work, some don't. My phone will charge with my OEM charger and usb to computer, but not my 3rd party wall charger or my car charger. Aaargh
Same Problem Here
Check out this thread at AT&T Forum regarding my attempt to get a replacement phone.
http://forums.wireless.att.com/cng/board/message?board.id=cingular&thread.id=65536
I got mine replaced at the store. I was under 30 days and was lucky.
I am going to order one of these:
http://www.eforcity.com/silicone-mini-5-pin-plug-for-motorola-v3-2-pc-smoke-cmotv3xxpc01.html
it should fit. i also heard that certain verizon phones have rubber usb plugs on them. I may just stop in a verizon store and see if one fits. My tmobile wing had one on it and it worked great to protect the usb port.
Well...I did the samething last night. Tried to soft reset my phone while driving in the dark. Luckily I've had my tilt less than 30 days, called and now all I have to do is go to the AT&T store for a replacement....Also, I'm going to pay 10% restocking fee so I can get an extra battery and charger...W00T!!!!! I actually saved about 50 bux
One way to avoid doing this in the dark is to flip the phone upside down, locate ExtUSB socket with your left index finger, keep your finger over the socket and slide your stylus down your finger tip. Of course the easiest way is to turn a light on.
wizzzard said:
One way to avoid doing this in the dark is to flip the phone upside down, locate ExtUSB socket with your left index finger, keep your finger over the socket and slide your stylus down your finger tip. Of course the easiest way is to turn a light on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
true, but for those of us with this problem already, it is too late
Luckily, I tried a newer charger, and my car charger, and they both work. As far as connecting to my computer, I have to use my Y cable that was included with my old 8525. I'm still pissed, and I have a TyTn II and not a tilt, so warranty will be a pain in the ass, considering I have to send it to the UK. If it starts to act up, I will have to send it in, and if I get it fixed, I will definitely buy one of those plugs from the above post. Thanks for all the replies, and good luck to everyone with this problem.
Lesson # one don't put things in holes in the dark in bed
Well, good news is ATT is sending me out a replacement phone for free since I am still under warranty (outside the 30 days, but inside the 1-year). Now I just need to re-flash back to OEM status so I don't get busted on the return...time to test out the "Idiot's Guide to Re-Flashing Back to Original ROM" and see if it does me right.
Heijdemann said:
Lesson # one don't put things in holes in the dark in bed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's why I have so many kids!?! anyways I had my phone charging in my car and it fell of my seat onto the floor. the nezt day I noticed it wasn't charging (tytn 2 no easy warranty fix) I then noticed that inside the usb thing is a black plastic piece with the small metal connections. the black piece was bent a little on one side so I removed the battery took a pair of tweazers and bent it it straight again than I took some forced air in a can (for a computer keyboard) and blew in there to make sure none of that cheap plastic shredded and got in the way of the metal connections. it looked like after I used the tweazers some of that black plastic chipped off (very small pieces) anyways after that it worked perfectly. hopefully this will help others
well it seems i messed up now and stuck my stencil in there one of the small Metal wires is out of whack now ad some chargers work and some dont did anyone get a plug yet?
pissed
so I live in metro detroit with a tytn 2 not a tilt. after I stuck my stencil in there it seems my car charger don't work. when charging with my audio adapter its flaky losing some power, maintaining, gaining some power. but when I use my wall charger with no adapter it charges!! if you put the kaiser flat on the table I see by 2nd wire (in the hole) is bent down(whereas the others are up) and its sitting in the middle of the whole.(my buddy told me to use a needle and a magnify glass because the 2nd wire was actually bent all the way down but I got it in the middle after messing with it. when that one wire was out of whack my car charger gave me a red constant light (no charge) after the stencil incident. I hope all that helps somebody! anyways so I call HTC first they tell me that's not covered under warranty. Then they tell me I have to send it to houston tx for 3 weeks. Then they tell me it will cost $300 usd to repair!!!! this is insane for a little miniusb piece that got hit once with a stencil. it probaly cost 22cents. what is everyone else doing? I think if I can get that metal piece to stick to the top it'll be fine. I just switched to att and I have 6 days until im locked to a 1yr contract I could buy a tilt for 250 or whatever but id have to sign a 2yr contract.
I stuck the stylus in the USB port as well but luckily I didnt seem to do any damage. I did bend it a bit but with some gentle pressure in the opposite direction it went back into place. I havent had any problems charging or syncing since then, so it seems I got lucky. Just gotta hope I dont do it again, lol.
ya the black piece as a whole seems to be able to bend a little but if u mess the little little metal connections in there you're gonna have problems
Hi, this is my first post and I hope to help someone. I had the same problem with my phone, it charged with the home charger and in the cradle but the car charger won't work. using a close light and a magnifier I could notice that with the phone with the screen upside looking at the usb connector that the pin al the way to the right was flat and a tip was showing as opposite to the others. I returned it to the former position and voila!! it works. I hope to help someone.

Fix Broken microUSB Port

So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
I wouldn't fix it myself...there is more to it then you think
kusanagisan18 said:
So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
chrislj said:
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
kusanagisan18 said:
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's virtually NEVER the connection between the leg and pad that is the issue, but rather always the inner connector that touches with the pins on the USB cable itself. So basically no, re-flowing the legs to pads won't do anything. I always ohm through the leg to the pad before replacing them to check if it's an easy fix but that's never the case and the whole connector ends up being replaced...
Download Jig Works But Won't Charge/Connect USB
I think I am having the same problem. I can use a download jig that I got from MobleTech some time ago, but the USB will only connect if I fiddle with the connection and will drop out almost immediately. I first noticed it because the phone was not charging overnight. I was running teamhacksburg ICS and thought I had developed the charge bug, but appears that I might need a new USB connection. Have tried differn't computers with same results. Is it safe to say I need a new USB port for my Captivate or are there some other things I should check. Thanks for the help.
If it's finicky like that then yes almost certainly.
So how would you go about replacing your USB port on your Captivate? or is it not worth trying for most people? One of the pins on my port came loose and got smashed to the outside shell. In trying to bend it back, it broke of course. So now no Download mode from Jig and no computer recognition.
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
YzRacer said:
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could I also get the link?
sebastienhwb said:
Could I also get the link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never got a PM but I followed the clues over to mobiletechvidoes. Once you add usb repair to your cart and check out you will receive an email about sending in the phone (after an hour or so) and I have just sent one in. It says send the phone without a battery or battery cover and I went ahead and wiped the phone just for safety.
Anyone ever find the link or know how much this costs?
in my sig if i remember correctly it is about $35
I paid $35 and it worked out well for me! Mobiletechvideos.com is where I signed up and they were fast and professional.
Fixed with vice grips
Just did this and slowly applied a little pressure and adjusted for more pressure at the end of the USB metal connection. It's a sturdy fit now and I'm not losing connectivity.
So the fix is to replace the connector altogether? Does anyone have a digikey part # or equivalent?
My issue seems to be that it charges, but I have no data connection. The pins don't need a reflow. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare micro usb cable to splice and check continuity on hand.
Is there any way I can talk with the enumerator chip to make sure it isn't fried, or should I just do the continuity check?
hi
I have the same problem, i searched on sites how to change it your self, but i couldn't find anything
Just check his signature.
http://mobiletechvideos.mybigcommerce.com/
other stuff available from them too. i am a past customer. they saved my cappy
MICRO USB
Anyone else had the USB port become mildly loose (moves back and forth if any pressure is put on the cable)? I believe its on its way out.

USB Port Fix

Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
KillerbawX said:
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could probably buy two new Raiders for $250! Replacement might be the best bet, as you can likely find one on Kijiji for $100 or so. If you have a local cell repair joint, give them a call, and see if they offer the replacement. It might be tricky since the USB on the Raider (as other HTC phones) is actually a special type of HDMI jack that also has USB (known as MHL).
If you're adventurous, you might track down a broken Raider and attempt a part swap yourself. I've not seen the inside of the unit, so I can't say how easy or hard that would be at any skill level...
Hope you get it fixed up!
The part is on eBay you can always try to do it yourself should be a few small solder points
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using xda premium
KillerbawX said:
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A friend needed this. We ordered one off ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-USB-Pow...328529?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c422a1d1 ) and although it required opening the phone up and voiding the warranty, it required no soldering. He doesn't open electronics up very often, and said it wasn't very hard to do.
i was babbling abt this in a thread in the dev forum, thot i'd best do it also here in the proper forum for it:
i changed the USB port in my Raider, was very simple. Six little screws, two different lengths so keep track of them. One screw also holds down the teeny cover under which is where the tiny connector resides that connects the port to the fone circuit board. Once the fone is back together that's where you make the final connection between port and fone.
Slip off the battery cover, undo the six screws, take off that tiny little cover. Carefully work off the entire back housing. There's no front housing, just the screen glass and the fone circuitry bundled together.
Micro-USB port and ribbon connector is fastened to the housing with two more of those little screws. Change out the port with the new one. New part may not be an exact duplicate of the old part: that's ok. Reassemble the fone. Under that hole left by the tiny cover, press home the miniscule plug that connects up the port to the fone.
Put back the tiny cover, fasten back all the screws, and you're done. Port cost me $9 USD plus shipping on ebay.
lowfatmilk said:
i was babbling abt this in a thread in the dev forum, thot i'd best do it also here in the proper forum for it:
i changed the USB port in my Raider, was very simple. Six little screws, two different lengths so keep track of them. One screw also holds down the teeny cover under which is where the tiny connector resides that connects the port to the fone circuit board. Once the fone is back together that's where you make the final connection between port and fone.
Slip off the battery cover, undo the six screws, take off that tiny little cover. Carefully work off the entire back housing. There's no front housing, just the screen glass and the fone circuitry bundled together.
Micro-USB port and ribbon connector is fastened to the housing with two more of those little screws. Change out the port with the new one. New part may not be an exact duplicate of the old part: that's ok. Reassemble the fone. Under that hole left by the tiny cover, press home the miniscule plug that connects up the port to the fone.
Put back the tiny cover, fasten back all the screws, and you're done. Port cost me $9 USD plus shipping on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, dude, I know this thread is a little old, but can you PM me the link to where you bought your USB port? I think I need to replace my port (issues connecting to PC and charging requires wire wiggling), but I've read about certain ports not working with data transfer and only charging, and I don't want to make that kind of mistake.
projectisaac said:
Hey, dude, I know this thread is a little old, but can you PM me the link to where you bought your USB port? I think I need to replace my port (issues connecting to PC and charging requires wire wiggling), but I've read about certain ports not working with data transfer and only charging, and I don't want to make that kind of mistake.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this? Says OEM so I imagine you wont lose functionality.
http://www.globaldirectparts.com/product-p/htc747235-qs.htm
Thank you! And only $8 too
Sent from my Vivid 4G using xda app-developers app

[Q] Docking station broken, is it repairable?

Hi,
My made-in-china docking station has just arrived, unfortunately its already been broken (quality material of a matchbox :\),
I have plugged in my micro usb into the socket (female micro usb on the dock) and somehow after few tests the female receiver of the dock fell out.. (I guess it wasn't glued strong enough because I haven't use any extra power to push it in)
Any way.. I have opened it up to see whats going on and found this:
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/9554/a84p.jpg
The small piece on the left is the female micro usb plugger that was attached to the green board but fell off..
This is a sort of explanation:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/2971/4wbl.jpg
And thats the part it self:
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/8735/ew44.jpg
Unfortunately I can't glue it back and definately not weld it on since its too tiny and I don't have proper equipment for that..
But I do want to try to fix it because god damn its 1 day old ! totally brand new!
So I was thinking maybe I should simply tear a cable and plug the + - to the red and black wires at the end of that board..
And so, here comes the question for you expert fellers.
First this is the board:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/8915/xo1u.jpg
I have a basic knowledge in electricity but its from engineering study and not from real world, so I don't really know how to read this thing..
Perhaps a better intuition than mines will help too..
Is this board necessary? What does it do? and can't it live with out it?
Why they didn't simply plug the + and - straight to the + - pins of the docking points?
Because thats what I am willing to do but I guess that "Ask the experts before you ruin it" is a helpful tip my mom taught me..
Thanks!
Jordan.
its actually soldered, not welded. its not very hard to solder, even tiny parts.
theres still solder on it. you can reflow it with a heat gun... assuming from your post that you have a welder so im guessing you have a heat gun.
just put the part on where its supposed to go, align it, then heat it.
dont get too close and slowly let the heat build, it'll flow at once. try to avoid applying heat to other parts to prevent them from shifting around.
if you are worried theres not enough solder, buy some solder paste and put a little bit on it.
you can check youtube/google for tutorials on reflowing with a heatgun.
if you dont have a heat gun theres other ways but be mindful of the temperatures of the rest of the components, you dont want anything else falling off.
btw, only pins 2 and 3 are necessary, thats power and ground.
Thanks for your reply but I've actually already fixed it,
I didn't soldered (I used Google Translate for that word ) it all,
I simply plugged out the whole board and attatched the two wires to the +- of a usb cable...
It works great.
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium
i think this is not a good idea
you can destroy the phone with this "FIX", if the phone is fully loaded the dock would load further.
In a extremsituation it can flame up
Search for the heatgun and fix it correctly, please
0p3r4t0r said:
i think this is not a good idea
you can destroy the phone with this "FIX", if the phone is fully loaded the dock would load further.
In a extremsituation it can flame up
Search for the heatgun and fix it correctly, please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm sorry but thats a full of crap..
first you absolutely cant flame up your phone by over charging it.. (where the hell have you ever heard about it?!)
secondly, the system for disconnect when the battery is full is inside the phone and not on the charger..
There are few circuit things for defending on the charger but not that..
And last, I already done it months ago and it wasn't bad at all.. sometimes it didn't charge to 100% or dropped down immediately.. but overall was fine..
I use now a new charger (also chinese crap), this one has the circuit board, I don't really feel anything different..
It charges good now but nothing extra noticeable...
Hey man, sorry i won't flame.
I mean the dock can lightup if you don't connect it correctly (short circuit)
But it's not my so you can do what you want
Sorry for missunderstanding
0p3r4t0r said:
Hey man, sorry i won't flame.
I mean the dock can lightup if you don't connect it correctly (short circuit)
But it's not my so you can do what you want
Sorry for missunderstanding
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest man there isn't enough current running through the USB to do anything nasty to the dock even if it did short circuit. It certainly wouldn't burn and you couldn't shock yourself, worst case scenario, the dock would just stop working.

Replace USB PCB board?

I have a broken USB port and looking to open this up and replace, but haven't seen anything posted. I found this, so if this will work...the heating up bit I haven't' done before to remove a back cover, but if lieu of a repair not sure how useful the tablet is
Anyone replace this part before?
Thanks!
NitDawg
It looks like it's modular - probably pretty simple to fit.
But remember - the Tab is plastic welded shut and you need to heat it up to separate the halves.
Depending on whether Murphy's Law visit you a lot (as it does me), you might be better of sending it in for repairs.
nitdawg said:
I have a broken USB port and looking to open this up and replace, but haven't seen anything posted. I found this, so if this will work...the heating up bit I haven't' done before to remove a back cover, but if lieu of a repair not sure how useful the tablet is
Anyone replace this part before?
Thanks!
NitDawg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read about many different ways of heating to open the tablet. A simple solution that worked well for me, was using a plain old steam iron, a single edge razor blade of the type used in box openers and an exacto knife. Be careful not to cut the LCD ribbon cable on the bottom edge of the tablet. It starts about 3" in from the Samson logo side of the tablet.
Thanks all! Yeah, I've opened up a few others before, but not one with heat. Using a place close by in the Raleigh area, they were willing to do it for $70 including the part...so well-worth it to me.
Thanks again!
Worth the price is they do it right, seal it up again, guarantee the work...
So after 2 different repair shops and half a year later, I was able to get this replaced. The first place held it for a month waiting for the part and eventually said it was not going to come in (strange). I let it sit for a while and then hit up another repair store...they said they can get the part. Was read the riot act on the risk, etc...but it was worthless at this point, so why not. They were able to do and all appears fine.
However, I wanted to transfer some files in prep for maybe a newer ROM when I noticed the replacement port does not allow any data transfer. I have another T810, so I know its not the various cables I tried. So that part is a bummer, but at least it charges...not sure why data transfer does not work, but I'm taking it!

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