Which HDD are REALLY compatible ? - Shift Development

Hello all,
I'm considering buying an HDD for the shift (I don't have it yet.. but it should arrive this week or next week).
I have read almost every single post about HDD... but things are not that clear... I think it will be better buying a 5mm HDD and not 8mm because I don't want to be worried about the rubber thing and pressure on it (and I bet that it is heavier .. which will not be fine when having the shift in my pocket).
I would like to know which HDD is REALLY compatible... I don't want to hear "it should work", "it will work"... because I have already read that it should need a LIF connector and that it should be a 1.8" and that 5mm was perfect, 8mm was a little bit harder but is working. I want to get the exact reference to the model YOU (people that have changed the HDD) are using.
What are the differences between : MK8025GAL and MK8031GAL ? Only generation but both are working fine?
Why the MK1231GAL is not working (cfr : cmats' post ) ? Will it be the same for the MK8031GAL? and what about the MK8025GAL then?
And alex_time has also talked about this kind of issue with the 80GB (cfr : this post ).
That's why I need answers from the most experienced users with users with other HDD in their shift. Answers from 8mm-drive users are welcome ! I want to get the more precise references to be sure the one I will buy.
Thanks everybody for sharing your experience !

koala996 said:
Hello all,
I'm considering buying an HDD for the shift (I don't have it yet.. but it should arrive this week or next week).
I have read almost every single post about HDD... but things are not that clear... I think it will be better buying a 5mm HDD and not 8mm because I don't want to be worried about the rubber thing and pressure on it (and I bet that it is heavier .. which will not be fine when having the shift in my pocket).
I would like to know which HDD is REALLY compatible... I don't want to hear "it should work", "it will work"... because I have already read that it should need a LIF connector and that it should be a 1.8" and that 5mm was perfect, 8mm was a little bit harder but is working. I want to get the exact reference to the model YOU (people that have changed the HDD) are using.
What are the differences between : MK8025GAL and MK8031GAL ? Only generation but both are working fine?
Why the MK1231GAL is not working (cfr : cmats' post ) ? Will it be the same for the MK8031GAL? and what about the MK8025GAL then?
And alex_time has also talked about this kind of issue with the 80GB (cfr : this post ).
That's why I need answers from the most experienced users with users with other HDD in their shift. Answers from 8mm-drive users are welcome ! I want to get the more precise references to be sure the one I will buy.
Thanks everybody for sharing your experience !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did some searching and I realize that some of the answers I posted in the HDD upgrade thread was wrong. Sorry about that.
Of the harddrives you mentioned, the MK8031GAL and MK1231GAL are NOT compatible with the shift. The reason for this is that they only support ATA-3 and ATA-4.
MK8025GAL and MK1214GAH both have LIF connectors and supports up to ATA-7. They WILL work with the Shift. I'm using MK1214GAH which is an 8mm drive. As you mentioned, I had to remove some of the rubber shock absorber when I installed it, but it has been working flawlessly since that (about 6 months).
Hope this is helpful!

Hello Koala996,
You seem to need guarantees that everything WILL work.
No one can give those....
There are many things that could go wrong when disassembling and re-assembling your shift in order to chance the HDD. The best we all can do is to say it SHOULD work with your shift, Or that it HAS worked with our own shifts...
I guess that is what you are asking...
I have got a MK1214GAH installed and it works perfectly. Once it was installed I have had no HDD issues whatsoever.
It is a 8mm drive so I had to REPLACE the rubber with a thinner strip.
First I tried to re-assemble the shift with the old rubber but I didn't fit and the pressure on the sim-card was too high and so It didn't work.
With the thinner strip everything fits perfectly, as if it was designed for 8mm drives but they put in cheaper models and padded the excess space with a rubber band...
greetz,
Pfeffa-rah

Pfeffa-rah said:
Hello Koala996,
You seem to need guarantees that everything WILL work.
No one can give those....
There are many things that could go wrong when disassembling and re-assembling your shift in order to chance the HDD. The best we all can do is to say it SHOULD work with your shift, Or that it HAS worked with our own shifts...
I guess that is what you are asking...
I have got a MK1214GAH installed and it works perfectly. Once it was installed I have had no HDD issues whatsoever.
It is a 8mm drive so I had to REPLACE the rubber with a thinner strip.
First I tried to re-assemble the shift with the old rubber but I didn't fit and the pressure on the sim-card was too high and so It didn't work.
With the thinner strip everything fits perfectly, as if it was designed for 8mm drives but they put in cheaper models and padded the excess space with a rubber band...
greetz,
Pfeffa-rah
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hello thanks for the information ... I'm not talking about "working" but about being "compatible". The reason is that some drivers were "supposed" to be working but were not (see the post above yours from deadnex).
it's my choice for 5mm drives.. I have already been into a lot of "modding" in my life, but I know that the shift is not something I want to play with .. for 40GB. 80GB is sufficient for my needs.

deadnex said:
I did some searching and I realize that some of the answers I posted in the HDD upgrade thread was wrong. Sorry about that.
Of the harddrives you mentioned, the MK8031GAL and MK1231GAL are NOT compatible with the shift. The reason for this is that they only support ATA-3 and ATA-4.
MK8025GAL and MK1214GAH both have LIF connectors and supports up to ATA-7. They WILL work with the Shift. I'm using MK1214GAH which is an 8mm drive. As you mentioned, I had to remove some of the rubber shock absorber when I installed it, but it has been working flawlessly since that (about 6 months).
Hope this is helpful!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you deadnex. yeah but you can't be totally sure about something without testing it .. because sometimes you realize that you forgot something (ata compatibility). that's sad because the 120Go 5mm would have been nice ^^. I will go for the MK8025GAL if I find somewhere to buy it. Thank you for your advise!

deadnex said:
I did some searching and I realize that some of the answers I posted in the HDD upgrade thread was wrong. Sorry about that.
Of the harddrives you mentioned, the MK8031GAL and MK1231GAL are NOT compatible with the shift. The reason for this is that they only support ATA-3 and ATA-4.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah.. I missed that, He posted while I was typing my message. I understand your question a lot better now
about "modding" your shift:
Opening up a shift can be very tricky. It is not easy opening the cover and removing the keyboard without damaging it. (I know, I've been there)
Comapared to that, replacing the rubber padding is childsplay. really!
If you go through all the trouble of replacing the HDD, take that one little step to gain 40GB....
That is what I would do...eh.. what I have done.
greetz,
Pfeffa-rah

Pfeffa-rah said:
ah.. I missed that, He posted while I was typing my message. I understand your question a lot better now
about "modding" your shift:
Opening up a shift can be very tricky. It is not easy opening the cover and removing the keyboard without damaging it. (I know, I've been there)
Comapared to that, replacing the rubber padding is childsplay. really!
If you go through all the trouble of replacing the HDD, take that one little step to gain 40GB....
That is what I would do...eh.. what I have done.
greetz,
Pfeffa-rah
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, no problem and thank you again. do you have any picture of the final result? I would like to understand better what was before and after for the rubber thing. I understand that this phase is not the most tricky and difficult.. but I don't want to have pressure on the board (even low pressure).

koala996 said:
80GB is sufficient for my needs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
80Gb is enough for me too.
I bought the MK8025GAL, it's a 5mm drive, it took about 15 mins to open up the shift and install it.

koala996 said:
do you have any picture of the final result? ...... I don't want to have pressure on the board (even low pressure).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I do not have any pics of the inside... On the outside there is nothing to see since there is absolutely no Pressure....
I just used a sheet of rubber I had laying arourd of about 1mm (maybe 1,5mm) thick and cut a strip of that (about 8mm.. the hight of the drive) and put it around the drive ... That is all.
So I did not cut the original one.....
greetz,
Pfeffa-rah

Pfeffa-rah said:
Sorry, I do not have any pics of the inside... On the outside there is nothing to see since there is absolutely no Pressure....
I just used a sheet of rubber I had laying arourd of about 1mm (maybe 1,5mm) thick and cut a strip of that (about 8mm.. the hight of the drive) and put it around the drive ... That is all.
So I did not cut the original one.....
greetz,
Pfeffa-rah
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah ok thanks.. I have installed WIn7 on the full drive and it's working perfect.. I think I don't need more space... so that's ok but thanks for the info!

Pantaloonie said:
80Gb is enough for me too.
I bought the MK8025GAL, it's a 5mm drive, it took about 15 mins to open up the shift and install it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you buy the MK8025GAL from?

kiwi45 said:
Where did you buy the MK8025GAL from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/149468
It cost around £55 when I bought it, seems to have gone up a bit.

Any suggestions for whatkind of "smaler" ribbons to use if changing to the 120GB 8mm drive?
thanks

Related

Replacement caps for the external antenna port?

Hi,
This is by far the most hi-tech question on the board... ;-)
I've lost the stupid little rubber cap that used to cover the antenna port. Cingular and Siemens are unable/unwilling to assist. Has anybody found an alternate source for replacements?
Thanks in advance!
Annoying little rubber piece
You the same exact thing happen to me. I ended up taking it from the non working display model at the sprint store. But then I lost it again. So if anybody knows, please let me know
Hum... I tried that with the styalist only to find that it was glued! Oh no let me correct that a friend of mine told me that he...
Try using the plastic bit on the non-writing end of a Bic stick ballpoint pen; it's about the right size & shape.
i-mate said they'd replace mine. Maybe I can get a few extras, too.
TheLastOne
You must be on great drugs! were do you get them from? LOL

the perfect case !!!

chekc this
http://www.bluetrade.eu/index.php?page=product&id=8720
i order it yerterday
i'll make some report as soon as possible
i order this one too (just to try to use x7500 without case)
http://www.caselogic.com/koskin_pda_slip_case/product_detail/index.cfm?modelid=57047
it seems to fit, i will see and i will report
regards
axle7517 said:
chekc this
http://www.bluetrade.eu/index.php?page=product&id=8720
i order it yerterday
i'll make some report as soon as possible
i order this one too (just to try to use x7500 without case)
http://www.caselogic.com/koskin_pda_slip_case/product_detail/index.cfm?modelid=57047
it seems to fit, i will see and i will report
regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for letting us all know.
My only concerns are that the http://www.bluetrade.eu/index.php?page=product&id=8720 case found here will do exactly as the free case does, scratch the inside of the screen, and also ensure that all the letters wear off as there is no protection from the keyboard.
the great diffence is that
you can see the external screen when closed
and !!!
there is a belt clip !!!
The one from Case Logic seems promising but I don't think it will fit:
X7500 dimensions (mm): 133,5 x 98 x 16 (or x 20 with keyboard on)
Case interior dimensions: 138,2 x 82,6 x 25,4
Please report when you receive it and post pictures if you can.
Regards,
S.
axle7517 said:
the great diffence is that
you can see the external screen when closed
and !!!
there is a belt clip !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let us know once you get the case with the belt clip. I want one like that.
This one will work, and has a velcro belt loop:
http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HP-IPAQ-H63...ryZ15034QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I like the looks of the bluetrade.eu one. Cant wait for a mini review. How exactly will the x7500 fit on the belt for daily use.... Will it make you limp?
Looks to be about $49 USD for it after all shipping and paypal tax. The shipping to the US is more than the case costs
Looks to be about the same design as the Piel Frama and about half the price for people in the US. We will see what the quality is when someone gets one.
axle7517 said:
chekc this
http://www.bluetrade.eu/index.php?page=product&id=8720
i order it yerterday
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks looks good indeed.. I did order one asw ell yesterday evening, let's see, they states it will take at least 10 days to deliver...
Hi,
I like the bluetrade one BUT ... I don't think the display will work proparly because the keyboard will a little bit separated from the Athena so the magnet will not recognized the keyboard is there (as it happens with the case it comes with the Athena). This is due to the smalls grips to hold the Athena.
4 weeks ago, I found this camera bag that fits to my Athena.
The brand name is TUCANO (www.tucano.it).
When I'm wearing a suit I use to carry the Athena in my jacket pocket without any kind of case.
But the rest of the time I use to carry a small backpack. For that reason, I was looking for a case which it could be complitely closed.
As I said, the one I'm using is from Tucano and is a camerga bad. There are several sizes. My one is 'Medium'.
I hope this would help anyone.
I will add some pictures so I'm sure you will have a better idea.
Best regards,
Alberto
axle7517 said:
chekc this
http://www.bluetrade.eu/index.php?page=product&id=8720
i order it yerterday
i'll make some report as soon as possible
i order this one too (just to try to use x7500 without case)
http://www.caselogic.com/koskin_pda_slip_case/product_detail/index.cfm?modelid=57047
it seems to fit, i will see and i will report
regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.caselogic.com/koskin_pda_...?modelid=57047
i received it yesterday
... don't fit or nearly
X7500 gets in with dificulty but it gets
X7500 dimensions (mm): 133,5 x 98 x 16 (or x 20 with keyboard on)
Case interior dimensions: 138,2 x 82,6 x 25,4
there 's 1,5 cm left
so it's get in but it is too stretch and it is hard to get in and get then out
I'm trying to stretch it with something biger but after 24 hours still the same
it depends on the using of each one but for me for a constant use every day it s not usefull at hall
but if the "forced" stretch work i will tell you
for the bluetrade case still not received
i found this one too
http://www.hama.fr/portal/articleId*58649/action*2563#4
but no information about the interior size
if some one find tell us
regard
i found this one
http://www.krusell.se/productUni.php?productID=2527&category=50&x=10&y=12
i don't know if it good
i try to order
axle7517 said:
i found this one
http://www.krusell.se/productUni.php?productID=2527&category=50&x=10&y=12
i don't know if it good
i try to order
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also saw this one today.
http://www.proporta.com/F02/PPF02P05.php?t_id=759&t_mode=des
It's under the HTC X7500 category on their website so I'm hoping it fits. Aesthetically, it does not really tick any of my boxes but I've actually ordered one to try out until I get the case I really like.
can I suggest you dont carry your credit card in there as in the photo.
the magnets will do magical and mystical things.
CPA said:
can I suggest you dont carry your credit card in there as in the photo.
the magnets will do magical and mystical things.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reminder, LOL!
No cards in there at all. Just the Ameo.
case
Ii think this is even better as it protects the screen edges from the keyboard!
http://www.pdair.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=10900000_11000093_11000094&products_id=5551
adamelphick said:
Ii think this is even better as it protects the screen edges from the keyboard!
http://www.pdair.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=10900000_11000093_11000094&products_id=5551
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does look better but personally, I do need a belt-clip/attachment option for carrying it about.
belt clip
I says it comes with one!
you can also use the aircompact casing for a nintendo DS. it fits perfectly with side pockets and extra flap in the middle to protect your lcd and the keyboard from rubbing against each other
adamelphick said:
Ii think this is even better as it protects the screen edges from the keyboard!
http://www.pdair.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=10900000_11000093_11000094&products_id=5551
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And protects the keyboard from any attempt to type on it.
It's not a BAD case; some aspects are well thought out, but it has NO belt clip option, and the keyboard is covered with a plastic sheet that warps and isn't quite flexible enough - even when new, before it had warped so much the ZXC row of keys was utterly unusable, pressing E or R would often send a half-finished reply to an SMS as it activated the soft key as well.
After a month of ownership the plastic was so bad, I traced the edges of the keyboard and cut a section out, leaving only the top row of keys covered and an edge around to hold the keyboard down.
Oh, didnt realise it had a crappy plastic cover over the keyboard! I assumed it had a magnet on the back like the original case... damn.

New case!

OK then,
I was going to get a new housing for my sad looking Ameo. They come in the standard Ameo silver or a rather smart HTC black. I already have a silver case, but here is the question.
Do the black housings, wear, scratch, or paint rub away easy? I don't want to get one and find it looks crap after six months. They ain't cheap! before anyone else says it, I know it depends how you treat it. I'm on about normal wear and tear use. How does yours look now? are there any signs of the metal underneath showing?
Regards
Jay
Black Case On The "advantage"...
Hey Jay,
I have a HTC Advantage x7501, with the black case of course, and have been using it with "typical" every-day use now for about 6 months. I have never even seen one of the silver cased "Ameo" versions of the device in person, so my review is a bit "one-sided," if you will... Also, I have a friend with whom I work with that also owns the same model as I. With saying all that, and without having experienced the silver model, I would bet the silver model would hold up a bit better on the finish due to the fact that if the silver gets scratched, the metal beneath it looks much closer to the silver finish than the black. I have a couple small blemishes on mine, and I am very particular with my mobile devices, but after using day-by-day at work and home, it has managed to get marked up just a bit. The biggest problem is, if you get a scratch on it, the metal below sticks out "like a sore thumb!"
I definitely believe that the black finish is a bit more professional looking, where sometimes the silver finishes can make a device look cheap or make it stand out.
Anyways, to give you my honest account on TWO Advantage x7501 devices (black finish) after 6 or so months of daily use, it is overall good, and neither one shows any major signs of wearing finish. Also, we both use a case that the device "slides" tightly in and out of each time you use it (without the keyboard attatched), and the device really hasn't shown any real signs of wear on the sides where it rubs the case. However, if you do happen to mark it up in any way, you will definitely notice it. Again, I am very picky, so keep that in mind, but so you have a better idea of what I am saying, I attatched a couple of pics so you can see what it looks like when or if you do scratch or mark it.
HOPE THIS HELPS!!!
-Ryan
Also Note: Only one of the devices I wrote about is pictured, but are very similar in condition, and were both purchased slightly used.
X7501 Cosmetics...
I have had my X7501 for almost 10 months now and it only has one very tiny mark on the top right corner (you have to look hard to even see it).
Since I'm also very particular about my devices (I always keep them looking new) I just used a Sharpie (permanent marking pen) to "erase" the offending mark. This works great and I would recommend it to anyone wanting to touch-up black anodized aluminum like the Athena housing.
Wow! thanks for the reply Guys, Ryan that was one hell of a reply. Must have took you a while to do that and I appreciate it. toyfreak, the idea with the marker pen is a great one. I think on just that idea alone I will get black. Its harder to touch up silver! It looks better too.
Regards
Jay
Indeed is surprisingly hard coating, I carry mine in my pockets and can't say I'm careful with it, rather the opposite, I have it since it came out and there is only a little wear in one of the corners, hardly noticeable, where the scratches are more visible, is on the silver border next to the screen, not that it look bad or anything.
Black housing - Where?
I would like to know where you can buy a black housing for your Ameo, mine needs a new one as well!
And what about your keyboard, can you get a black one too?
/HM
Silver / AMEO
Hi guys,
Proud owner of a wonderful brick since 6 months in grey color I should say that if I new I would have choosen a different color.
The grey AMEO housing is far from being "time resistant"...
Since few weeks the "video camera" around the front cam as disappeared and the "Alert" will soon do the same.
I allways take good care of my stuf and I'am bit disapointed for a 1.000 bucks machine to see it !
hmeyer said:
I would like to know where you can buy a black housing for your Ameo, mine needs a new one as well!
And what about your keyboard, can you get a black one too?
/HM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are available on ebay, if you search athena case you should find them. any problems then let me know. There is a guy who does spares on there and he has them in black or Silver.
regards
Jay
Hi,
Just a quick update on the new housing. It's arrived, and I put it on. It looks great, so glad I got black. Thanks to those who took the trouble to answer this post so well.
If anyone needs a new housing for their device then let me know and I will let you know where to get them from. He claims to have a few left!
regards
Jay
responderman said:
Hi,
Just a quick update on the new housing. It's arrived, and I put it on. It looks great, so glad I got black. Thanks to those who took the trouble to answer this post so well.
If anyone needs a new housing for their device then let me know and I will let you know where to get them from. He claims to have a few left!
regards
Jay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm looking for a new housing, for the X7501 not the 7500. Please advise me where to find one.
tootallk2000 said:
I'm looking for a new housing, for the X7501 not the 7500. Please advise me where to find one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Forgive my ignorance, What is the difference?
Jay
responderman said:
Forgive my ignorance, What is the difference?
Jay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The X7501 does not have the internal or 2nd camera, the X7500 does. So I would have a big hole in my unit if I used that one. I don't know if the inside layout is any different but that's the only visible thing on the external end.
I need a new housing too.
Anychance you could PM me a link or contact for this.
Thanks in advance.
tootallk2000 said:
The X7501 does not have the internal or 2nd camera, the X7500 does. So I would have a big hole in my unit if I used that one. I don't know if the inside layout is any different but that's the only visible thing on the external end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
7501 does have 2 cams. the 7510 doesnt
goodluckje said:
7501 does have 2 cams. the 7510 doesnt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LMAO dude have you been drinking? The 7501 has 1 camera and the 7500 and the 7510 has 2. I own the 7501 which is also cheaper than the 7500. I suggest you google them and you'll see the difference.
tootallk is correct. 7501 has 1.
back to the subjct of cases. i got the nutshell case mentioned elsewhere in this forum. definitely woth the money... and the wait. beautiful case and funtional.
wgary said:
back to the subjct of cases. i got the nutshell case mentioned elsewhere in this forum. definitely woth the money... and the wait. beautiful case and funtional.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi
you are talking about a extra case to protect the athena right?, the thread is about replacing the cover / housing of the athena itself, a step that becomes nesesary when you not use case like your nutshell .
anyhow (and to really come back to subject ) i have to replace my housing too and wonder, why nobody can simply post the web/email adress of a reseller here?. i searched alot now an only find companies in asia and prices 'far away from reality', so if someone know a good reseler please post here.
thanks mad
madbird said:
hi
you are talking about a extra case to protect the athena right?, the thread is about replacing the cover / housing of the athena itself, a step that becomes nesesary when you not use case like your nutshell .
anyhow (and to really come back to subject ) i have to replace my housing too and wonder, why nobody can simply post the web/email adress of a reseller here?. i searched alot now an only find companies in asia and prices 'far away from reality', so if someone know a good reseler please post here.
thanks mad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oops my bad.
madbird said:
hi
you are talking about a extra case to protect the athena right?, the thread is about replacing the cover / housing of the athena itself, a step that becomes nesesary when you not use case like your nutshell .
anyhow (and to really come back to subject ) i have to replace my housing too and wonder, why nobody can simply post the web/email adress of a reseller here?. i searched alot now an only find companies in asia and prices 'far away from reality', so if someone know a good reseler please post here.
thanks mad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here you go,
http://search.stores.ebay.co.uk/sk-...shopQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQsaselZ239115870QQsofpZ0
Not cheap though!
Jay
P.S if im in trouble "Madbird" made me do it

Buying a used TyTn II (Kaiser, not Tilt), anything to check for?

Hey guys, I'll be buying a used Kaiser sometime this week, is there anything in particular I should be checking to see if it works?
Just want to be sure not to get a fake (if its possible)/ defective unit.
Thanks
I've yet to see a phony Kaiser so if it's new, you should be good to go. If it's used, check everything like the sound, camera, sliding mechanism, etc.
Don't forget to check the USB port
kareem9nba said:
If it's used, check everything like the sound, camera, sliding mechanism, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As well as the USB port functionality both for charging and with Activesync (but then 'everthing' as mentioned, includes this). I saw someone recently who bought one secondhand and the USB port was faulty. My advise to the o/p is it's risky business unless you really know what you're looking for.
check if warez is installed or what, u dont wanna get in trouble for that!
Make sure the lint roller still has sticky tape on it.
If you don't mind the device being branded I would go for the T-Mobile MDA Vario III (kais130). The Dpad is sturdier and I find it look better in silver. The letters T-mobile and MDA peel off very easy, that's if you want them away. Slightly scratch them away with a scalpel or other extreme sharp knife, leaving no marks at all. I did it and posted pics somewhere... here
Hey Chumley, what exactly do you mean with:
ChumleyEX said:
Make sure the lint roller still has sticky tape on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
???

Home made Stylus for Nook

I've been waiting for week to get my materials to make the home made stylus, finally the most important piece arrived. This took hours to get it to work right. It was a lot easier to get a working stylus for an iPod Touch, but after some tinkering, screaming, sweating and fails I got a pretty good working one. Check out my youtube video (sorry for the bad quality, did on a digital kodak camera very baaad):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujdsEt5zX8I
http://lifehacker.com/5836870/build...n-the-cheap-with-a-ballpoint-pen-and-a-sponge
Here one I read about, don't know if it would work or not though.
I just use a chop stick. Must be hundreds of them floating around my house of different styles, materials, points. Same at work just not so many. I hang on to one for a while, lose/misplace it and it'll take me a day or two to settle on another. No muss no fuss.
Quick question, can you please tell me where you got all the materials?
EverythingNook said:
Quick question, can you please tell me where you got all the materials?
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The most important piece, the conductive foam, I got it from ebay. Just search conductive foam, I got a 4" x 4" still have more than half left. I'm thinking that the wire and metal casing are unnecessary, so any pen or pencil casing should do. What I have discovered so far is that the Nook stylus I made requires a large surface, like you see in the video. I wanted it to be really thin at the beginning that's why it didn't work, since the NC screen isn't as responsive as we would all want.
Anyways, the wire I used, I got it from an old coaxial cable (TV cable). Also, I got the idea from this video, which is a lot more instructive than mine...I just wanted to test it in the NC:
http://youtu.be/4YE8rGuLCtU
I think im going to try a sponge before i get conductive foam.
Very nice! Did you tried to slim the tip of conductive foam?
What is the notebook software are you using on the video?
Harlley Sathler said:
Very nice! Did you tried to slim the tip of conductive foam?
What is the notebook software are you using on the video?
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At first I was trying to get the tip to be the thinnest possible, so it would mimic a ball point pen, but apparently the LCD in the NC need a bigger surface to respond to touches. I was able to get a thin version working on an iPod Touch 3G no problem. I'm going to try to make a new following the video that inspired me, I just need a more flexible wire to make it. Anyways, the app I used is called Handrite
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Because of curiosity and creativity and inventively spirit?
These are what moves us, geeks, ahead. I did some styli myself and be proud of this.
Crwly said:
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
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Most of them dont work very well with the nook.
Crwly said:
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
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This experiment cost me less than 2 bucks, since I used everyday materials around the house. The only thing I had to buy was the foam, which I still have more than half left, maybe for making more or using them for other stuff like transporting cpus xD
Edit: Oh and you might find the foam in everyday electronics too, like HDD casings, tv remotes, etc. So you could get a working (proven to work on NC) stylus for free.
jgaf said:
This experiment cost me less than 2 bucks, since I used everyday materials around the house. The only thing I had to buy was the foam, which I still have more than half left, maybe for making more or using them for other stuff like transporting cpus xD
Edit: Oh and you might find the foam in everyday electronics too, like HDD casings, tv remotes, etc. So you could get a working (proven to work on NC) stylus for free.
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Where exactly in remotes, like where the battery goes?
EverythingNook said:
Where exactly in remotes, like where the battery goes?
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Not quite sure I remember reading it somewhere. I have seen some in an external hdd casing, it helps to reduce static
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
mgs526 said:
http://lifehacker.com/5836870/build...n-the-cheap-with-a-ballpoint-pen-and-a-sponge
Here one I read about, don't know if it would work or not though.
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it works and it was really easy to make
Yesterday I had my Nook sitting open on my desk, and plugged in my phone.
The cord dragged over the screen of the Nook, and the keyboard happened to be open. Everywhere the cord touched it tapped a letter.
I tried it again with the cord plugged in to AC, but not the phone...and nothing.
Plugged the phone back in, and was able to tap keys again using the cord.
Maybe we could get a battery-operated stylus that just runs power down to the tip .
I'm thinking triple-a battery, small insulated wire down to, then acting as, the tip, and simply return up to the other end of the battery.
No clue if this would be bad for the screen or not, but as long as it's a low level of power, can't see why it would be.
We have some very creative people here who have the skills to not only make something like this happen, but regulate the flow of power through the wire from the battery.
My thought is that since the screen isn't so great for a stylus on the Nook, maybe enhancing the tapping power of the stylus would help.
For anyone who has no clue what they are doing but wants to try anyways, DO NOT use exposed wire, and in any event i'm not responsible for what happens with the use/misuse/abuse of this information.
Any thoughts on this?
ETA:
Maybe a small triple-a flashlight would make a good starting base for this project, a lot of them go real cheap anymore. Just do away with the light itself, and replace it with a wire. You get a switch already built in and all that way.
Blue6IX said:
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That was interesting, but I must ask, will a powered stylus perform any better than bought ones or homemade foam ones?
I tried it again with the cord plugged in to AC, but not the phone...and nothing.
Plugged the phone back in, and was able to tap keys again using the cord.
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Without the phone, there is no current flow on the cable, and no magnetic field around it, and so, no capacitance distortion.
Harlley Sathler said:
Without the phone, there is no current flow on the cable, and no magnetic field around it, and so, no capacitance distortion.
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Yea, this I didn't know until I found out by accident. I had always just assumed there was, but now know that unless something is drawing power it's in a static state.
GuTsaV said:
That was interesting, but I must ask, will a powered stylus perform any better than bought ones or homemade foam ones?
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That is the question that I posed. If no one else is curious enough to find out, i'll get around to this eventually.
I have a handful of pen-light flashlights floating around here, it would be a simple matter to replace the led with a wire and find out.
When I find time to solder one in i'll let you know how it goes. My job is taking up way more time then i'd like in my life at the moment, so who knows when that'll be.
Blue6IX said:
I have a handful of pen-light flashlights floating around here, it would be a simple matter to replace the led with a wire and find out.
When I find time to solder one in i'll let you know how it goes. My job is taking up way more time then i'd like in my life at the moment, so who knows when that'll be.
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If you replace the LED by a wire, you will get a short-circuit on the batteries, what means that even if it works as a stylus, you will get your batteries hot and discharged very quickly.
Not to say that is dangerous if the batteries get hot!
Another way would be apply the Ohm's Law and calculate a resistor to replace the LED, but I don't know if this idea (a powered stylus) would be an energy efficient circuit...

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