Anyone interested?
Simply put I am going to create a mound and cast a landscape sync cradle for the X1 since I don't like the plug a lead in the side approach of the available commercial ones.
I will be willing to make these for people who want them once I have my own one done, and if I have enough taker there will be some economy of scale.
So with that in mind I have a few questions to ask people.
1. Material
(a) Hard material
(b) Rubberised material
2. How much should the X1 be inclined in the cradle?
3. Is anyone interested?
4. Any suggestions about features people would like?
Im very interested.
1. Material should be mixed. The stand itself should be plastic, but the parts that come in contact with the X1 should be rubber, or at least have rubber stands.
2. I think a 30 to 45 degree incline would be good? That should allow for a good viewing angle with and without the keyboard open.
3. Yep
4. Hm.. Maybe somehow accomidate for X1s that use a case? So X1s that have a case can still fit on the stand.
Not exactly sure how that would be done.. maybe some sort of spacer system.
A nice little LED under the stand that projects onto the desk would be a bit flashy and nice >.> (I'm getting this idea from one of Sony's VAIO laptops, the CR or SR.. dont remember which).
sign me up (if it's cheap and you're in the UK)
1: definetly rubber for the mount...the base can be either hard or soft
2: 10 degree of vertical
3: yep
4: must be able to plug headphones in (would like to connect to stereo)
Very good initiative! I have been thinking of doing something similar myself, but if you're on it, would be even better..!
What you should have to make it a good product:
- Make sure the mini-usb is embedded in the cradle, so you let the X1 slide onto it. (obvious one)
- Make sure you can still slide out the keyboard when it's cradled. (see the other threads about carkits for examples how to achieve that)
- Make sure that the sound jack is still accesible.
- Make sure that the X1 sits tightly in it, not being able to wobble.
Then there's some optional things you might want to think about.
- Doesn't matter which materials are used, as it's all plastic, it won't scratch anyway. I wouldn't recommend any rubber types, as it might not slide in and out smoothly.
- If you add some sort of LED light to indicate it's powered (recommended) do make a switch to turn only the LED off. (to use it at night)
- A nice way to add a LED is by making plexiglass bottom. Drill a hole in the center and put 4 LEDs facing all sides of the sheet in that hole, facing outwards. Add another Layer to protect the LEDs and voila, stylish light. Shouldn't be too bright though.
---
More ideas will probably pop up. Some take some effort to implement, but making these things yourself always do take some effort.
If ever you get this done, I'll order three cradles and pay well!
EDIT: Sketch it first and post it so we can evaluate and give feedback!
I'm certainly interested, in either a desk top version or a portable stand.
A portable cradle which could be used on a plane/train table to watch videos. I've seen some plastic holders, but they look cheap.
cwh.
THJahar said:
sign me up (if it's cheap and you're in the UK)
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Click to collapse
I'm not in the UK, but not too far away. I'm in Ireland, I will probably be able post via Royal Mail.
Angelusz said:
- Make sure the mini-usb is embedded in the cradle, so you let the X1 slide onto it. (obvious one)
- Make sure you can still slide out the keyboard when it's cradled. (see the other threads about carkits for examples how to achieve that)
- Make sure that the sound jack is still accesible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, have those ones on my list.
- Make sure that the X1 sits tightly in it, not being able to wobble.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually that doesn't take any effort and the mini-usb helps a lot here.
- Doesn't matter which materials are used, as it's all plastic, it won't scratch anyway. I wouldn't recommend any rubber types, as it might not slide in and out smoothly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The really depends on the hardness. A soft compound will stick, a hard rubber will work fine.
- If you add some sort of LED light to indicate it's powered (recommended) do make a switch to turn only the LED off. (to use it at night)
- A nice way to add a LED is by making plexiglass bottom. Drill a hole in the center and put 4 LEDs facing all sides of the sheet in that hole, facing outwards. Add another Layer to protect the LEDs and voila, stylish light. Shouldn't be too bright though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely won't be in the first design. I'm going to try to keep this as a single cast first time round. Might look at doing it in a later run.
EDIT: Sketch it first and post it so we can evaluate and give feedback!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll see if I can get that done later today.
Alright, fair enough on the plexiglass part. Though my suggestion does keep it fairly simple, as you don't need to cast plexiglass, just use a saw/ viles. It's something I can add myself later though. You'll need to use a screw or something similar for the bottom part anyway, to be able to put in the cable, right?
You're probably right on the harder rubber by the way. It's a good one to try.
On being able to do it in a single cast, I can see how it's convenient, but for design's sake, perhaps it's better (and in some cases easier) to cast it in two parts: The bottom part (with the USB connector, hard, reflecting plastic) and the part that actually holds the X1 (hard rubber) and glue it together with compound glue. If you do that properly it'll look just as good, sit just as tight, but be better! (in my view anyway. ^^)
In the end, it's all your choice though, let us know what you come up with!
Angelusz said:
Alright, fair enough on the plexiglass part. Though my suggestion does keep it fairly simple, as you don't need to cast plexiglass, just use a saw/ viles. It's something I can add myself later though. You'll need to use a screw or something similar for the bottom part anyway, to be able to put in the cable, right?
You're probably right on the harder rubber by the way. It's a good one to try.
On being able to do it in a single cast, I can see how it's convenient, but for design's sake, perhaps it's better (and in some cases easier) to cast it in two parts: The bottom part (with the USB connector, hard, reflecting plastic) and the part that actually holds the X1 (hard rubber) and glue it together with compound glue. If you do that properly it'll look just as good, sit just as tight, but be better! (in my view anyway. ^^)
In the end, it's all your choice though, let us know what you come up with!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All good points, and a helpful discussion for me.
A two part cast is just as easy, it just requires more compounds and more moulds and more time ( I'm not averse to spending more time or createing the extra moulds). A single cast can be done with a recess to take the usb cable and a couple of small self tappers will keep it place. I may be forced for practical reasons to go that way anyway so I'll experiment with both.
For your idea of the plexi parts, I'll have to admit I'm not convinced, cut parts don't usually work out as well as cast ones without a lot of finishing so I'd rather not do that unless it's on the bottom. If I go down the route of LED support I'll most likely cast a translucent part with a colour pigment in it to diffuse the light with space behind/below for the LED.
By the way if I do two parts, they will be either bonded or screwed together, not glued.
Alrighty. Good to see that at least you're willing to try a multi-cast (woo! new terminology!) design. The idea you had with a translucent cast would be even better, but I presumed that to be a very difficult process. If it can be cast, then indeed it'd be better.
And you're right on the finishing of plexiglass, it'd require sawing, viling and sanding, finished by polishing. If you have to make many, it'd indeed by a time-consuming process.
How exactly would you bond stuff together? Screwing speaks for itself. Do realise that compound glue (if you use the right one) kind-of melts the plastics together. In effect, you'll have a bond stronger than screwing.
The bonding method is similar to the chemical weld you describe, just without the solvent. The second part is a wet join to the first which is almost but not quite cured. The advantage is that there is no deformation at all like there is in the chemical weld, and it also produces a cleaner result.
Screwing them has the advantage that a faulty/worn usb cable can be replaced.
The translucent part is easy, it's just clear compound with a pigment in it. The result is similar to a fake jewel.
Sign me up, also!
Depending on final price to Portugal, I would defenitly buy it.
In fact, I could even propose it on PocketPT forum, to buy several in one go, so bringing down mail costs.
reborg said:
The bonding method is similar to the chemical weld you describe, just without the solvent. The second part is a wet join to the first which is almost but not quite cured. The advantage is that there is no deformation at all like there is in the chemical weld, and it also produces a cleaner result.
Screwing them has the advantage that a faulty/worn usb cable can be replaced.
The translucent part is easy, it's just clear compound with a pigment in it. The result is similar to a fake jewel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very nice. I'm starting to think you're in the business, considering your knowledge on the matter.
Where are you located by the way?
I'm in Ireland.
I'm not in the business, but I have done a lot of fabrication work for custom audio systems in cars in the past and as a result I have a very good knowledge of the advantages of different materials and methods, and the different finishes you can get with them.
Angelusz, I appreciate the input and as a result I'd like to ask if you'd be willing to test and help me refine the prototypes ?
Naturally. How do you suggest I can help? The only thing that might complicate that slightly is that I live in The Netherlands. Perhaps a more direct means of communications would make it easier as well. Any suggestions?
That would be a good start, I'll PM you my email address(es) for now, and we can take that discussion there.
cwh060 said:
I'm certainly interested, in either a desk top version or a portable stand.
A portable cradle which could be used on a plane/train table to watch videos. I've seen some plastic holders, but they look cheap.
cwh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I understood that correctly you want a cradle with a removable USB lead, or is it a cradle-like stand you're after ?
Honestly if it's just a stand you want it's probably not worthwhile using anything too fancy and check is good when travelling because breakages are common.
I just had a thought though that might be interesting. A stand with a base that can hold up to two standard batteries in the the base (connected in parallel) that can be used to power the X1 for a long flight/train journey.
im interested, but it would be good if the cradle could be used to hold the x1 landscape and portrait. All that the user would need to do is pick up the phone and rotate it
Ive drew some basic (very basic) sketches:
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Hope you like them. All feed back welcome.
indy.89 said:
im interested, but it would be good if the cradle could be used to hold the x1 landscape and portrait. All that the user would need to do is pick up the phone and rotate it
Ive drew some basic (very basic) sketches:
View attachment 173502
View attachment 173503
Hope you like them. All feed back welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That one is easily doable. It is essentially as you describe it in the images; a holder rather than a cradle from the point of view that it wouldn't be usable as a sync station, but from that POV I think you would find that there are already options that can do what you want, so you might want to examine other options than having me make this. Given the number of units I can do I doubt I would be competitive compared to mass-produced options even if I simply operate at cost.
Good initiative! I'm very interested in the cradlle. The two points I would appreciate is that it can be connected to the laptop/PC for synchronisation and charging. Charging could be via an external or build-in charger, but if that is too difficult or work, charging via USB is also OK.
Related
Hey XDA Adam fans I'd like to introduce my work in progress case for the Adam. I'm calling it Goliath Pro, short for Goliath Protection. I just started last weekend after pre-ordering my Adam (wifi+pixelqi) and finding no suitable cases for my requirements (rugged yet stylish).
I've been posting on Notion Addicts but want to get the feedback of the XDA community too. I'm already on version 2 you can see renders at goliathpro site. I'm hoping to get to prototype next week so I can move quick with this (I work for a product design company so I've already got manufacturing connections in China). If you guys have any suggestions or needs you'd like to see implemented let me know and I'll do my best to produce everyone's dream case. It may even end up being two renditions one being the base model and another later thats beefed up to mil-spec. (NIH also has a cool case but we need variety!)
I figure Adam lets you use the tablet comfortably outside with pixelqi so it better be built for it.
All input is appreciated!
(oh, and I've attached an exclusive XDA preview of a new the version 2 color scheme, smoky grey transparent)
*UPDATE: First prototypes arrived today!
Pre-Production Render
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Prototype Case!
Looks great! Not sold on the name though. 99.99999% of the time, 'pro' is short for professional and imo, it just sounds strange. That's like calling a product solid-tit where the 'tit' is short for titanium. Makes sense, just isn't a good name. Not that the name actually matters if the case does its job...
Off topic: Did you use Solidworks to draw this up? I'm an ME and I've used Inventor rather extensively but I just got a new job at a startup (I'm the second full-time employee) and I'm going to be using Solidworks for design. Can't wait to get the program in because I'll get a free home license too!
Valid point wynalazca, I guess I like pro 'cuase its what you call your protective gear in rock climbing. Then again you could think of it as a case for professionals or maybe in its final rendition it'll be the full Goliath Protection, we'll see how the logo's look . Yes, solidworks was used to mock up the case, it's a really intuitive program. I'm in the opposite situation, I'd like to try inventor as a lot of people I know use it and love it.
How about a stand build in...somewhere..?
Looks good though.
Looking really good! -CC
nice idea
for sure i will put it on my wish list
regards
Logos and Eco Friendly Materials
Finally, Logos! let me know what you think of these, the top one is the primary logo which i envision embossed on the product somewhere, haven't decided if it should be prominent (like the apple logo on back of iPad) or kinda hidden so you only see it on the inside or something. I guess that will depend on what you guys think. Let me know if you can get down with this or if you hate it, another idea I was playing with was a silhouette of a Goliath beetle from the side. I thought it'd be cool to reference the insects exoskeleton but I put the idea aside for this more clean looking design (if you guys hate this one and want to see the beetle I'll revive it!)
*logo attached below
I got an email requesting Goliath be made from eco-friendly materials, such as recycled plastics etc. I would love to do this but fear that recycled plastics would shorten the lifespan and quality of the product. From my experience recycled plastics tend to break/fracture much more quickly than virgin material. If anyone knows otherwise and has eco-material suggestions I'd be happy to take them. I've seen a lot of requests for a leather case, so maybe I'll have to do a recycled leather case to compliment this one.
Again, thanks for all the feedback, it's awesome how Adam fans like to get involved!
Reminds me of aftermarket car mods for some reason, which isn't a positive or negative ...
Let's see the beetle, the idea intrigues me.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
On another note, if you designed the connections right I don't think the brittleness of recycled plastics would be much of an issue. There really isn't much stress placed upon these covers unless they arent tight to the device body or (obviously) dropped.
Any possibility of a bidirectional kickstand?
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
nosanon said:
Yes, solidworks was used to mock up the case, it's a really intuitive program. I'm in the opposite situation, I'd like to try inventor as a lot of people I know use it and love it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to stay off topic, but after going through a hands on course from one of the sales people, Solidworks is a much better program to use. I'm not sure if it was just the computer I had, but Inventor seemed a little buggy and crashed all the time on me.
Also, I'm really digging the logos. If the price is reasonable, I'm definitely interested in purchasing!
Hey XDA, so last Monday my server got hacked and it screwed up my entire weeks schedule. I learned some lessons, i.e. never host all your work critical websites on one server. Luckily no damage was really done and I learned a lot about what I need to do in the future to be more careful. Monday was going to be dedicated to version 2 modeling and updates but since that day was completely occupied by damage control I've had to fit in the modeling after hours and this weekend. Luckily our manufacturer was able to get me estimates and timetables for prototyping and first production, so all was not lost. I hope to have some prototypes by end of next week so we can all have something real to look at, not just renders.
football0552: thanks for the heads up, I'm considering using living hinges to create the integrated stand while keeping everything flush. Do you know about recycled plastics in this application? I know virgin material can be flexed over a million times. Bidirectional Kickstand is in the works, I have several solutions, working on a final to patent before releasing images.
That looks great, hope your planning on shipping international!!!
One question / idea are you planing a cover / folio case to protect the screen.
I fly in helicopters occasionally and the luggage gets tossed about a bit so I am needing some protection for the screen too.
Cant wait to see the real deal.
nosanon said:
Hey XDA, so last Monday my server got hacked and it screwed up my entire weeks schedule. I learned some lessons, i.e. never host all your work critical websites on one server. Luckily no damage was really done and I learned a lot about what I need to do in the future to be more careful. Monday was going to be dedicated to version 2 modeling and updates but since that day was completely occupied by damage control I've had to fit in the modeling after hours and this weekend. Luckily our manufacturer was able to get me estimates and timetables for prototyping and first production, so all was not lost. I hope to have some prototypes by end of next week so we can all have something real to look at, not just renders.
football0552: thanks for the heads up, I'm considering using living hinges to create the integrated stand while keeping everything flush. Do you know about recycled plastics in this application? I know virgin material can be flexed over a million times. Bidirectional Kickstand is in the works, I have several solutions, working on a final to patent before releasing images.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To answer your question about recycled plastics and living hinges-- No, I don't. I could do some research if needed, but off the top of my head I don't know.
I like the Icon only as well as the Horizontal format. Torn, as either one would be nice.
living hinge
Hey, maybe you could do something like a snap version of a livinge hinge; at the top and sides. Disconnect the snaps you're not using and flip the cover open to either a portrait or landscape kickstand. My concern is for the longevity of a living hinge...
Hankdula said:
Hey, maybe you could do something like a snap version of a livinge hinge; at the top and sides. Disconnect the snaps you're not using and flip the cover open to either a portrait or landscape kickstand. My concern is for the longevity of a living hinge...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it could die... (sorry, couldn't resist).
I saw a funny engineering post called Night of the Living Hinge. Anyways, got updates!
It's been a hectic couple of weeks but finally I'm ready to share pre-production renders. We've patented design in China and US, as well as trademarked our name so without further delay. Here are the updates:
1. Ruggedized re-design brings a better grip on the second skin as well as increasing impact resistance.
2. Screen Protector with design features that direct screen impact to the outside of the case not the screen.
3. Micro SD card slots to store 3 extra MicroSD cards
4. Integrated kickstand
5. fully accessible ports when open, fully protected ports when closed
6. Sliding Camera cover protects the lens when closed, allows full use when slid open.
more images uploaded to the site.
super project. I will buy one foe my future Adam. Really good. All what I need from case
I'm in, I will definitly get one of these...that second pic looks amazing....what is the site again? and what will be the cost?
Price and Site
strboy said:
I'm in, I will definitly get one of these...that second pic looks amazing....what is the site again? and what will be the cost?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The site is goliathpro.com and the cost we're shooting for is estimated around USD$20 for the Second Skin and USD$50 for the Full Protection. These estimates aren't solid yet tho as we have yet to finalize our manufacturing partner.
So I bought THIS DOCK off eBay, and if you're looking for one, this is the one to get since it's a US seller who is only charging $1 more for it than the one you have to wait 2+ weeks for coming out of China:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160860164735?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
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Images above borrowed from the eBay auction page, they are not my own images
If you can't find this one months or years after it disappears from eBay, you're looking for something similar to a Charging & Syncing Docking Station Dock Cradle for ASUS Google Nexus 7. All in all, it's a good dock, I felt it leaned a little forward prior to installing a case on the N7, but some people may want that for their uses - I personally have it mounted on my charging valet in my bedroom, so it is a little above my waist when looking at it on the dock, in which case I'd like it to lean a little further back compared to the intended usage of placing it on your desk at work so that it's nearly at eye level.
When I got the Cruzerlite case for the N7, the dock wasn't going to work at ALL. The MicroUSB charging port wouldn't even come close to mating up to the connector on the stand, and would put the N7 at a horrible viewing angle even if it did, leaning like 20+ degrees forward instead of 10 degrees backwards! So time to get to work on this lovely Labor Day, here's what you'll need to modify the dock:
Eyeglass Phillips Screwdriver
Small Flathead Screwdriver
Needle-Nose Pliers
Electrical Tape
X-Acto Knife
Crazy Glue / CA Glue (for hobbies and crafts) / Hot Glue Gun and Glue Sticks
Protective Eyewear
Sanding Apparatus (I used a belt sander, but if you don't have one, use a Dremel or good old fashioned hand sand paper)
Finishing Sand Paper (400 grit and up)
USB charging plug out in the garage or wherever you'll be doing this so you can test the connections
Time and Patience
I'm going to apologize in advance for not taking pics of the modifications. I'm awful at this, but since I do custom stuff like this for a living, it really isn't in my nature to take pics all the way through doing custom work, so I'm sorry but the descriptions will have to hold up for now! This is what it will look like when you're done though, I'll show that first:
Before you ask, the wallpaper was something custom I worked up, and isn't available for download, sorry.... using trademarked logos is something I don't mind doing for my personal device because no one can complain about it, providing it for others isn't cool though!
And here's what you need to do to get it to look like that:
Start by pealing off the little rubber pads adhered to the bottom of the dock, they conceal the small Phillips head screws to disassemble it.
Remove the screws and don't lose them!
Make sure you have the cable disconnected from the wall outlet and start picking at the hot glue stuck to the inside of the dock, but BE CAREFUL not to damage any wires in the process! Once you get it started on the very outside with the Flathead screwdriver, just peal the rest of it up by hand, slowly. You'll want to remove the glue from around the LED and the MicroUSB connector.
Once the glue is off, the MicroUSB connector will pop out with some force to the top of it - just push down with your thumb and it should break through the melted plastic that was tacking it in place from underneath.
Completely remove the USB cable from the docking station and set aside, now the seat back of the dock is clear to sand without the MicroUSB connector in the way!
START SANDING, however you have planned. Do this evenly and make sure you are starting with knocking down the high spot on the top of the seat back of the dock. Yes, read that again, and then continue with this description. The "seat" of the dock is "L" shaped, if you will. The bottom of the L needs no sanding, just the top of it, on the face of the L. You want it to lean like an italicized L would look, or maybe a J for you visual learners. Again, sorry for no pics of the progress.
Do a little at a time and check your progress - clean your hands, pick up the tablet that should have been far enough away from the sanding process, and while looking from underneath the dock, see if you can visually line up the charging port on the N7 with the slit that the MicroUSB connector used to protrude from. Not yet? Keep sanding! Man, I feel bad if you're doing this by hand, I ground the crap out of the dock to get it where I wanted it....
One thing that you may encounter if you're using a belt sander or even a Dremel is that you'll start to sand through the material on the very top corners, or at least get to an outline of the molded plastic from the inside. That's okay, it actually turned out interesting for me when I finished, and you'll see why. Just be careful not to sand right through it and leave a gaping hole, it isn't easy to do, but it's not hard if you're not paying attention to what you're sanding, and stopping every few seconds to see the progress.
After you've got it perfect, whatever that means to you, hit it with the high numbered sand paper to smooth it all down and finish it up, I used 400 because that gives plastic a really nice feel, in my opinion.
Wash the dock down and your hands as well, and rub it all over to get off all the loose sanded plastic. Dry with a paper towel and blow dry before continuing.
Now line up the charging port to where the MicroUSB connector once resided, and while holding the N7 with the case on it in place, see if that's the right angle you want it in, mine has a nice gangsta lean to it, and that's what I was going for.
If you sanded too much, you may want to use some heavy duty glue to repair it from the inside. I did just to strengthen it and since I sanded it down a little too much on one side (the belt sander will do that, quickly!), I actually created a second window from the front for the blue LED to shine through by using glue on the inside! You'll see what I mean below in pics.
Now that you've visually got the port lined up with where the connector will go, we need to mate the two together. Start by cutting the MicroUSB connector slit open even more than it once was. You need to widen that opening because the MicroUSB plug will need to sit higher than it did previously, as the case will raise the N7 off the base of the dock about 1/8th of an inch.
Where the plug used to sit, you'll see from the inside that it looks thinner at the very base of the opening. Using the X-Acto Knife, cut perpendicularly to the hole on the very left and right of it, making an "H" on from the outside, where the horizontal bar on the letter H is the exisiting MicroUSB plug slit. Once you cut deep enough, you can use the Needle-Nose Pliers to break off the thin tabs. You will now have enough room for the entire base of the MicroUSB plug to feed through (see macro pictures of the plug below for reference to see how much the hole is widened and how high the plug sits in comparison to before).
Before you even TOUCH the MicroUSB cable after removing it in step 5, let's tape it up so you avoid any accidents. Grab the electrical tape and carefully wrap all the bare wires and the base of the MicroUSB plug. Be very gentle with the wires, they are VERY fragile and will break if you use force in tearing the electrical tape - trust me, I know.... I had to repair a loose wire because of it! Don't use too much on the base of the plug though, the more you use, the more you'll have to shave down with the X-Acto Knife to widen the opening for the plug to fit through. Don't use too much on the cables because it won't bend easily later.
Now, if you're handy enough, you can hold the N7 and the dock with one hand and feed the plug up through the dock with the other, if not, get some help holding it up. Be careful not to break the plug or bend it too much while test fitting it!!! Once fitted, plug in the cable and see if your N7 is charging - if not, you need to feed the plug up higher and most likely shave down the sides of the hole to feed more of it up to reach the dock. Now's a good time to check the viewing angle as well, making sure you're okay with it!
Optionally, you can stop here before hard mounting the MicroUSB plug and prep and paint your dock, I recommend using texture black spray paint if you want to, but I didn't care that much to do it.... Think about what you want to do with it now, once you continue, you can't paint it effectively.
Holding the N7 to the dock and the charging port securely fixed to it and verifying once more it charges the device, tack some glue to the inside to hold the port in place. The reason I use CA Glue is because with the accelerator, it takes 10 seconds for it to go from a liquid to ROCK SOLID, speeding up the time I need to hold something firmly together for it to stay glued together.
Carefully remove the N7 from the dock, making sure it didn't break the tacked glue (if it did, repeat the process clearing out the glue you just tacked), and smother the inside of the dock with glue to seal that sucker in there for good.
Depending on what glue you used, you may even want to apply some glue to the top, by where the MicroUSB plug sits on the base to strengthen it even further - if you're only using hot glue with this, don't even think about it!
Optionally, you'll want to glue back the blue LED, but before you do, you can put some electrical tape over the hole to dampen the brightness of that damn beacon of a light! Why the Chinese think we need such a bright light to tell us that these docks have power, I'll never know....
Keeping the cable connected to the power supply to ensure the blue LED stays lit, carefully bend the wires and reinstall the base with screws.
Put the rubber feet back on the dock once the screws are all snug, and your dock has been modified!
Optionally, cover the bottom with industrial strength Velcro and mount it to the place you're going to keep the dock positioned. I do that to all my docking stations, the one for my Harmony 1000 remote, my cell phone, everything. There's just something so appealing about being able to grab the device with one and and pulling straight up without having to hold the dock or base with the other hand to keep it from coming with the device! Trust me, you'll thank me later....
Oh, yeah, one more thing, and this isn't really optional.... You want to throw out the 1.0A wall plug that came with this and find yourself a 2.0 - 2.1A wall plug to charge your tablet. Newer devices require more power to charge them faster, some, charge at ALL, so ditch that 1.0A one because it isn't designed for your tablet. You can find the right one by using the one that came with the device, just not using the USB cable since this one is attached to the dock, but don't use the cheap 1.0A one that comes with this dock!
Here are more images as I promised:
If this has helped you in any way, please don't forget to say thanks! I wasn't planning on doing this write up but after seeing some of the ones done on here for other simple little things (that DIY DVD Case / Tablet Stand is awesome!), I figured I'd try and help if possible. I'm not looking to boost my ego or anything here, but as you can see, it took me a white writing up these 25 steps!
Enjoy and let me know if I need to be more clear on any of the steps! I'm always open to criticism of my write ups, just be kind and don't get crazy, I'm here to help but need to know what you need help with first.... Also, PLEASE don't click reply to this post and quote this whole thing, it wastes a lot of space and reproduces this whole post for no reason - if you need to quote something from what I said, quote just what you need! Also, we will laugh at you for quoting the whole post.... Thanks!
Alright, I meant to post this about a month ago but I have been very busy.
I present to you the full body custom protection for the gear:
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Now LoL, dont laugh. It is not the best looking protection, but it is damn tuff. This was my first attempt and took some skill and patience to complete. When I originally did this there was a fair bit of "head scratching" going on.
This mod is pretty basic, but requires PATIENCE (very key). It is simply electrical shrink wrap tubing.
OhMGee! YOU USED HEAT ON A $300 HIGH TECH WATCH WITH DELICATE ELECTRONICS???!?!?!?!??!?!? YES, yes I did. That is where the patience part comes in. Take it slow and simple. Do not rush for any reason. The key is to heat up an area, shrink the wrap and let it cool. This way you do not get the watch too hot. Getting the watch warm is not a problem because electroincs get warm under operating conditions. Just dont heat the watches body up to the point that it is uncomfortable to touch. Size up the shrink wrap according to the watch size. A fairly large diameter piece is required for the main body, and the watch band part has to be at least the size of the clasp with the speaker in it. (I believe the watch band required a 1in diameter shrink wrap size which was a tight fit pulling it over the clasp but will fit)
Some other pointers I can give. Take your time and work all the way around the entire wrap. Meaning do not try to completely shrink one area at a time. The idea is to work around the outside shrinking the wrap evenly so it takes the shape of the watch. Also buy more shrink wrap than what you need. Your first attempt may not turn out like you expect.
You will have to trim some places. As will be seen in following pictures below, you will have to cut out a notch for the watch clasp. It will be obvious once you get things in place. Simply trim to fit. You will also have to cut out for the screen, camera, microphones, and speaker. The best way to do this is use a very sharp razor blade to score the surface of the wrap. Dont try to cut through the material in one go or you are going to cut your watch and/or scratch the surface.
Now a trick I used to cut out the camera. I used a fired .22 casing to score the surface of the wrap directly over the camera. Then slowly worked the razor around the mark the .22 made. The idea was to not cut out the entire area for the cameras lens so that over time the edges wont roll up. Just enough to let the camera see out is all I wanted.
Some other tips. This mod will make the watch band STIFF. Thats ok because I want it to be as ridgid and tuff as possible. During the process of shrinking the wrap to the band, you might want to bend the band inwards while the wrap is still warm and let it cool like that. You can always reheat the band later to reform it. This is all self explanatory but I wanted to explain for peeps that havnt used heat shrink before.
One more little note. When I did the watch face, I made a template of the screen size (actual screen) to go by. I would also highly advise that you put a screen protector on before wrapping the main body. Also required is to make little holes for the microphones and power button. No the charger wont fit with the main body wrap in place. I simply made a split right down the middle on the underside. Right now I have a small piece of blue painters tape holding it together. Cant see the tape when wearing the watch so I dont care. When I need to charge it, peel the tape back on one side and pull the wrap off. Same tape works when putting the wrap back on after charging. And yes, the wrap on the watch band is far back enough to allow the chrager to fit.
I do plan on remaking the body wrap part since I messed up the one I have on it now. Again, order more material than you need. Your first attempt will most likely not be that great.
Enjoy the Gear pr0n!!!
I dunno man... Part of the reason for getting the gear was the great looks compared to the other watches out there. I mean you wouldn't put something like this on a traditional watch! Looks are one of the main features
But then again, my day job is on front of a computer, where no harm will come to my watch so maybe I'm the wrong person to reply
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
le3ky said:
I dunno man... Part of the reason for getting the gear was the great looks compared to the other watches out there. I mean you wouldn't put something like this on a traditional watch! Looks are one of the main features
But then again, my day job is on front of a computer, where no harm will come to my watch so maybe I'm the wrong person to reply
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with you, but when you break your watch looks wont really matter! LoL
My work calls for some pretty rough conditions. I work in commercial kitchens and on rooftops. Im jn the repair industry and my hand are constantly dirty and nasty. The main reason I bought the gear was to not have to handle my phone every 5secs when someone calls me. I also use my camera A LOT so having the camera on the Gear is just plain awesome for getting a pic of equipment and data plates with model/serial numbers.
This thread is for those that need good protection in extreme conditions. I know my Gear would have been destroyed on the first day at work.
Just food for thought
Hah yeah I kinda realised that might be the case once I wrote my first paragraph lol!
It's definitely impressive what you did though!
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
BUT WHY !
I personally dont like it.. In saying that tho I dont even put screen protectors on my phones/watch.
I can understand why you did it tho..
Thank you sir! Keep in mind the watch body part is not necessary. When I am not working, I run the watch without the body part.
Just the protection for the clasp and camera is enough of a reason to do this. Not only that, shrink wrap comes in all kinds of colors. Dont like the black band? Change it up and make it yellow! Tired of that color? Cut it off and put something else on. The shrink wrap that I used is really thick. There are other pieces that are thinner.
Oh yeah I almost forgot. There is clear shrink too! If I can find some big enough I will give that a try. That would probably look better.
Sent from my SM-N900V using xda app-developers app
fire3element said:
Thank you sir! Keep in mind the watch body part is not necessary. When I am not working, I run the watch without the body part.
Just the protection for the clasp and camera is enough of a reason to do this. Not only that, shrink wrap comes in all kinds of colors. Dont like the black band? Change it up and make it yellow! Tired of that color? Cut it off and put something else on. The shrink wrap that I used is really thick. There are other pieces that are thinner.
Sent from my SM-N900V using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You get points for innovation, but its ugly.. LOL
Good work and well done!!
Maybe for your work is good......but...... I don't like at all. It's very ugly
JigJanus said:
Good work and well done!!
Maybe for your work is good......but...... I don't like at all. It's very ugly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Keep in mind he is a tradesmen, If I was still a tradie myself I would be doing the same !
Its a great idea tho, really is..
aww cmon now. For a bunch of guys yall sure are worried about lookin purtty
I just want the functionality of the watch. No one even looks at my watch or phone... probably cause I am so hot. >.> I kid I KID rofl
Well shoot... I though more people would like it. LoL
Oh well back to the drawing board. Maybe I will repost if I find some clear shrink to redo it.
Honestly though, doesn't look that bad in person. Pics make it look worse.
.oops double post
fire3element said:
aww cmon now. For a bunch of guys yall sure are worried about lookin purtty
I just want the functionality of the watch. No one even looks at my watch or phone... probably cause I am so hot. >.> I kid I KID rofl
Well shoot... I though more people would like it. LoL
Oh well back to the drawing board. Maybe I will repost if I find some clear shrink to redo it.
Honestly though, doesn't look that bad in person. Pics make it look worse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahahahaha, you did well man.. Considering the materials you used its a clean job.
Dont try justify it with the pictures making it look bad tho bahahaha !
hahahaha. touche'
Looking at two possible GVR cooling solutions for less than $5:
TEST RESULTS:
Metal Sponges - FAIL:
At first I thought the copper sponges were causing interference and stutter but I then realized I was using the wrong governor in Synapse. Once I fixed that the lag disappeared.
Unfortunately, although the copper became warm, it was not wicking off enough heat to prevent shutdown. I am thinking this is because there is not enough surface area of the copper in contact with the battery as you would have in an actual heatsync with 100% contact.
So, metallic sponges are a fail due to not enough surface contact. Interesting idea, doesn't work.
Chilled Hobby Ziplock Bags Full of Fake Ice Goo - SUCCESS!:
Ok, bought 4" x 3" plastic ziplock bags from the hobby section of Walmart. Also bought bag of Coleman Ice Goo. Filled baggy about 1/2 full (don't want it too thick) and triple bagged it alternating direction of the seal to protect against leaks. Chilled baggy until cold but not frozen (didn't want to fog lenses if too cold). Played various 3D games for about 1/2 an hour before I had to quit to do some other things. After 1/2 hour no heat warnings and battery was cool to the touch - so I'm assuming it was working.
The baggie was however only cool and no longer cold. I do not know if it would still cool the battery enough in that state but might due to the fact this is good and not just water. Will need a longer test for that. Regardless, easy enough to create multiple baggies for quick replacement without quitting your game.
So anyway, there it is, $5 cooling solution from your local Walmart. Hope it works for you.
** I do not claim using chillpacks to be an original idea, just a really cheap implementation of an idea lots of folks have discussed.
*** I placed this directly on the battery but if that makes you nervous I should think it would still work placed on the back cover - as a matter of fact it might stay cold longer that way and will be easier to switch out on the fly without your battery falling out. Make sure you don't overfill the baggie because with the cover on you will have a lot less room.
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I just read this online:
From a chemical standpoint, aluminum is a better thermal and electrical conductor than steel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll see if I can buy some at Lowe's.
mitchellvii said:
This may be a crazy idea but I'll put it out there. What if you were to take some loosely woven aluminum wool and stuff it between your Note 4 with the back cover off and the GVR cover? Would this provide enough of a heat sync to prevent overheating while gaming?
Super cheap and easy if it works. I'll try it and report back.
** I know nothing about electronics. Is this will short out my phone or something else terrible, please give me a heads up before I break things.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you're gonna want to do that, because that aluminum wool can shed little "flecks" of aluminum just by squeezing/pulling it- just from the friction action within the wool. These little microscopic flecks can get into everywhere and everything. If they get inside electronics, they can create electrical bridges (shorts), and truly mess up your electronics. I'm not saying absolutely don't do it, I'm just sharing that it's something to be aware of. I don't like that stuff.
FauxForce said:
I don't think you're gonna want to do that, because that aluminum wool can shed little "flecks" of aluminum just by squeezing/pulling it- just from the friction action within the wool. These little microscopic flecks can get into everywhere and everything. If they get inside electronics, they can create electrical bridges (shorts), and truly mess up your electronics. I'm not saying absolutely don't do it, I'm just sharing that it's something to be aware of. I don't like that stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks yes I also considered that. What I ended up getting was two small copper sponges from Walmart. I don't think these will shed as they are woven not wool.
I also picked up some of that ice substitute stuff and some 4 x 3 hobby zip lock bags. My idea is to chill the baggy full of goop then place it inside a cloth sunglass pouch and that between the N4 back cover and the GVR cover. Will report back.
Just a followup. I do recommend you go with a chilled pack as opposed to frozen for a couple reasons:
1) Frozen may not fit well as the liquid expands when it freezes.
2) Frozen will cause fogging.
3) I believe a nicely fridge chilled pack will last you about 30 to 40 minutes of gaming at which point you can swap in a new one without stopping.
Yes this is a bit of a cludgy inelegant solution but it is simple, cheap and it works without modding anything permanently.
Did you experience any problems with condensation when you used the ice pack?
aclays said:
Did you experience any problems with condensation when you used the ice pack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the pack was frozen, yes. If only chilled well then no. YMMV.
mitchellvii said:
Looking at two possible GVR cooling solutions for less than $5:
TEST RESULTS:
Metal Sponges - FAIL:
At first I thought the copper sponges were causing interference and stutter but I then realized I was using the wrong governor in Synapse. Once I fixed that the lag disappeared.
Unfortunately, although the copper became warm, it was not wicking off enough heat to prevent shutdown. I am thinking this is because there is not enough surface area of the copper in contact with the battery as you would have in an actual heatsync with 100% contact.
So, metallic sponges are a fail due to not enough surface contact. Interesting idea, doesn't work.
Chilled Hobby Ziplock Bags Full of Fake Ice Goo - SUCCESS!:
Ok, bought 4" x 3" plastic ziplock bags from the hobby section of Walmart. Also bought bag of Coleman Ice Goo. Filled baggy about 1/2 full (don't want it too thick) and triple bagged it alternating direction of the seal to protect against leaks. Chilled baggy until cold but not frozen (didn't want to fog lenses if too cold). Played various 3D games for about 1/2 an hour before I had to quit to do some other things. After 1/2 hour no heat warnings and battery was cool to the touch - so I'm assuming it was working.
The baggie was however only cool and no longer cold. I do not know if it would still cool the battery enough in that state but might due to the fact this is good and not just water. Will need a longer test for that. Regardless, easy enough to create multiple baggies for quick replacement without quitting your game.
So anyway, there it is, $5 cooling solution from your local Walmart. Hope it works for you.
** I do not claim using chillpacks to be an original idea, just a really cheap implementation of an idea lots of folks have discussed.
*** I placed this directly on the battery but if that makes you nervous I should think it would still work placed on the back cover - as a matter of fact it might stay cold longer that way and will be easier to switch out on the fly without your battery falling out. Make sure you don't overfill the baggie because with the cover on you will have a lot less room.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What governor do you use? I've noticed on Lollipop that there is stuttering using the interactive governor.
I have had no problems just yet. But also I have not used it for more than half hour.
Wow, interesting read.
I just got a Gear VR Innovator edition for Note 4. It overheats like crazy!
I was thinking of a way but I am glad I found this because at least I can use the freezy things while I work on what I had planned for cooling.
My plan... Ummm, is to make the battery remote. The note 4 fits in the gear vr without the back cover installed, so I am wanting to make some sort of remote battery tray, just to get all that heat AWAY from the phone.
If anyone has any cheap ideas on what to use to make a battery tray, and also the dummy battery that I would need to put in the phone, please chime in?
I was thinking I could do it all with cardboard(ugly style) or dremel out the parts from flat plastic. 3D printer would be nice... lol
Edit) This would be ideal. All I would have to do is pry it apart and solder 3 leads onto the board where the pins connect, then use the spare battery, with the leads blocked, or gutted, or some sort of homemade insert for the connection to the phone.
In my case, 25 bucks would be worth it. Both my kids, and I have Note 4's, so about 8 bucks per phone.. not bad. OOPS. I chose that link because I thought it would last a while, but I found many of these for 20-30 bucks elsewhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Battery-Charger-Replacement/dp/B00NQG2XNC
Found a knockoff here,, 10 bucks.. I am ordering this one for sure.
http://www.amazon.com/LEMFO®-Galaxy...id=1456774018&sr=1-18&keywords=note+4+charger
mitchellvii said:
Looking at two possible GVR cooling solutions for less than $5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use to see your post all the time on the Tab S forums. Do you still have it? Anyway I think it's crazy to have to go through so much to use a GVR without it overheating. I'm using mine with a S6. 5 to 10 minutes after using it, videos, games, pictures, doesn't matter, I get the need to cool down message. I tried all of the phone settings suggestions I could find to resolve the overheating and nothing works. I pre-ordered a S7 and should have it around next Friday. Hopefully I'll have better luck with the S7. If not I may try your solution or just sell it and wait for a reasonably priced PC VR to come out.
In my opinion the best of the cooling fan.
There seems to be zero magnets on this thing, so it slides around when I close it.
https://imgur.com/a/AsH5MFS
Also the thing is unusable on a lap.
Thing is wobby like crazy.
https://imgur.com/a/44tGC2h
outside of the TouchPad this feels like a overall downgrade from last years... bummer.
I felt same way, its clicks securely in place but then moves around when holding it while walking. It feels much weaker magnet than Tab S3. S Pen falls off Tab S6, they should have used stronger magnets. The S Pen entire body should hold magnets
cdig said:
There seems to be zero magnets on this thing, so it slides around when I close it.
https://imgur.com/a/AsH5MFS
Also the thing is unusable on a lap.
Thing is wobby like crazy.
https://imgur.com/a/44tGC2h
outside of the TouchPad this feels like a overall downgrade from last years... bummer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Feels solid to me. Doesn't move like this at all. Probably it is good idea to check your unit, maybe it's a manufacturing defect.
And one question - how did you manage to get text suggestions typing on a physical keyboard? I'm looking for this a lot. Thank you
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techops said:
Feels solid to me. Doesn't move like this at all. Probably it is good idea to check your unit, maybe it's a manufacturing defect.
And one question - how did you manage to get text suggestions typing on a physical keyboard? I'm looking for this a lot. Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't get that working for the samsung keyboard, but i get suggestions with swiftkey.
I agree, the keyboard cover is a disappointment. I was looking forward to the trackpad on the new case, but am disappointed in the "floppyness". My tab S3 and keyboard were much more functional to use in the hands, on the lap, while on the couch etc. This is impossible to use unless sitting on a table.
---------- Post added at 06:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------
My other thought was I used to be able to pickup my tab s3 and keyboard case as one solid unit, like a small laptop, and move it, like from one room to another. This is a floppy mess to move around.
Yeah... I'm thinking ill return this and wait for the tab s7. s4 still is solid imo.
cdig said:
There seems to be zero magnets on this thing, so it slides around when I close it.
https://imgur.com/a/AsH5MFS
Also the thing is unusable on a lap.
Thing is wobby like crazy.
https://imgur.com/a/44tGC2h
outside of the TouchPad this feels like a overall downgrade from last years... bummer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For me, this year's keyboard cover is a significant upgrade over previous years.
The phone can now finally recognise when the cover is opened, and now wakes the device as we've been accustomed to for years with our phones. No previous Tab Sx keyboard cover had this ability.
The way the tablet remains permanently connected to the case is superior to the design of previous years. Previously, one had to connect the tablet to the case pins whenever one wanted to use the keyboard, which made for a lot of wear and tear on those connectors. Now, you plug the tablet in once and leave it there.
The stylus can now be safely stowed inside the case, rather than attached to the edge with a fragile clip that can get caught on things and pulled off. This is so much better than the system that the Tab S3 and S4 had.
The hinged flap at the back makes it possible to use the tablet in a variety of viewing angles, which is flexibility we didn't have before. I don't really like the way that opening the flap exposes the back of the tablet, but at least it's a trade-off for the viewing angle, rather than an outright step backwards.
Either the plastic of this keyboard is softer than that of the Tab S4 or the glass of the Tab S6 is harder than its predecessor's, because the tiny scratches that would appear around the edge of the Tab S4's screen seem to be a thing of the past on this new device.
I loathe touchpads, so I've disabled that, as I do on all the laptops I ever buy. If the touchpad couldn't be disabled, I would have called that a step backwards, but since it's configurable, it's a neutral feature for me and an upgrade for some.
The main thing wrong with this keyboard cover from my point of view is its ludicrous price. The way things are going, one or two years from now the keyboard cover will cost the same as a lower end phone or tablet. As it is, it adds nearly 25% to the price of the Tab S6 in some markets.
The one physical feature I don't like is that the moulding of the stylus storage compartment makes it impossible to lay the device flat on a table. The incline isn't so bad that it's a hindrance, but it takes a little getting used to after years of flat usage.
To clarify, I have the normal book cover keyboard and it isn't nearly as loose as this, it holds very well.
I am sure I read this before although can't find it.
The onboard keyboard doesn't show if the keyboard is connected, so if you have the keyboard folded around the back the tablet is unuseable. Am I doing something wrong.
seal said:
I am sure I read this before although can't find it.
The onboard keyboard doesn't show if the keyboard is connected, so if you have the keyboard folded around the back the tablet is unuseable. Am I doing something wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
see this tread on Samsung
https://us.community.samsung.com/t5...S6-Physical-vs-On-Screen-Keyboard/td-p/822651
My issue is that when I have the keyboard attached, I swing it to the back and it gets disabled but then I can't get the on-screen keyboard to work. I have to detach the keyboard to get it to even show up. Anyone else?
keyboard icon works fine in dex ode which is what I'm using most of the time with the keyboard case. Gotta say even tho I do wish the case closed more solid, I'm really loving this case. I like the tear off,, leaving the kickstand on which holds pen and acts as a grip. Never even bought one for s4 due to lack of track pad. How anyone works on an ipad without a mouse I have no idea.
Also for me it works fine in my lapt, just like my old Surface Pro.
So far I'm really loving this tab, sitting here playing game in one windw, spotify running in back and reading up on xda.
My problem has been getting the back to stay connected. The part with the kickstand relies on micro-suction cups to stay in place. I've been through 3 keyboards now - cleaned the back of the Tab, cleaned and dried the micro-suction ring, pressed it firmly in place for many minutes. No matter what I do, I can't get the back to stay on more than an hour at best. At some point without the keyboard itself attached, the Tab just slides off the back. Thankfully so far, it just ended up on my desk - no falls.
The worst part? The normal Book Cover (non-keyboard) connects via a magnet, and it is rock-solid. Comes off easily when I want it to, stays on firmly when I don't want it to. But the keyboard does not have enough room to connect when this cover is on, so I can't use it without switching to the keyboard back.
Why, Samsung, couldn't you use the same magnetic connector on the keyboard?
da_ferreira said:
My problem has been getting the back to stay connected. The part with the kickstand relies on micro-suction cups to stay in place. I've been through 3 keyboards now - cleaned the back of the Tab, cleaned and dried the micro-suction ring, pressed it firmly in place for many minutes. No matter what I do, I can't get the back to stay on more than an hour at best. At some point without the keyboard itself attached, the Tab just slides off the back. Thankfully so far, it just ended up on my desk - no falls.
The worst part? The normal Book Cover (non-keyboard) connects via a magnet, and it is rock-solid. Comes off easily when I want it to, stays on firmly when I don't want it to. But the keyboard does not have enough room to connect when this cover is on, so I can't use it without switching to the keyboard back.
Why, Samsung, couldn't you use the same magnetic connector on the keyboard?
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I dont have the issue but agree completely on the design being a stupid experiment.
JarkMackson said:
My issue is that when I have the keyboard attached, I swing it to the back and it gets disabled but then I can't get the on-screen keyboard to work. I have to detach the keyboard to get it to even show up. Anyone else?
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I had this issue as well. The solution is to enable the "Show the on-screen keyboard" option in the physical keyboard settings. With this enabled the on-screen keyboard always popup when you click in a text box, it will go away as soon as you start typing with the physical keyboard, or remain up if start typing with the on-screen keyboard. I also found that I had to use the Samsung on-screen keyboard to get it to work correctly, G-Board caused some issue. Hope this help.
da_ferreira said:
My problem has been getting the back to stay connected. The part with the kickstand relies on micro-suction cups to stay in place. I've been through 3 keyboards now - cleaned the back of the Tab, cleaned and dried the micro-suction ring, pressed it firmly in place for many minutes. No matter what I do, I can't get the back to stay on more than an hour at best. At some point without the keyboard itself attached, the Tab just slides off the back. Thankfully so far, it just ended up on my desk - no falls.
The worst part? The normal Book Cover (non-keyboard) connects via a magnet, and it is rock-solid. Comes off easily when I want it to, stays on firmly when I don't want it to. But the keyboard does not have enough room to connect when this cover is on, so I can't use it without switching to the keyboard back.
Why, Samsung, couldn't you use the same magnetic connector on the keyboard?
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Click to collapse
What did you use to clean them? I had the problem until I used an alcohol wipe to clean both the tablet back and the sticky area of the case back. Now there's no way the back is coming off without some prying.
As described above, the back cover is not magnetic, it's microsuction. The ADVANTAGE of this, is that it's meant to be easily removed if you want to use your tablet naked at times. The disadvantage of this, is that you should push firmly on it before and after opening the kickstand.
However, if you're looking for a more semi-permanent fix, a couple simple 3M strips placed in the rectangular area between the microsuction works great!
nicholb said:
What did you use to clean them? I had the problem until I used an alcohol wipe to clean both the tablet back and the sticky area of the case back. Now there's no way the back is coming off without some prying.
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I tried rubbing alcohol on both sides. No change.
I let the Best Buy customer service agent talk me into try number 4, I guess mainly because I am gullible like that. You know what? The alcohol thing worked this time, and I am approaching 4 hours without the tablet slipping out. If I make it overnight tonight, I am willing to declare this a success.
Fingers crossed.
gottahavit said:
I dont have the issue but agree completely on the design being a stupid experiment.
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I may have found a solution to the problem...I simply mounted 2 or 3 double stick photo wall mounts. The stand is VERY stable now...to the point that it is somewhat difficult to remove the stand from the device
charlie
Yeah no adhesive for me. But mine works fine