Kaiser Diagram - Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General

I was wondering if anyone had a diagram of the kaiser like completely apart.
The wires for the LED part of the screen are either loose or corroded, don't know which. So I'm taking it apart. Also if anyone knew of what color wires I might be looking for, it would be appreciated

Anybody? ._.

Related

Alpine Motherboard pictures

Added some pretty good detailed images of the alpine motherboard.
Is the white thing the antennas?
If anyone can explain what the different parts are on the alpine_mb_small.jpg, it would help me alot.
If anyone like to know, I'm building a new casing for my "spare alpine".
Thanks!
Why don’t you track the path form the external antenna plug in your first picture then maybe you will find the antenna.
thanks & Best Regards
yup the white thing is the antenna

PCBA subboard for scroller and buzzer

Hello,
Does anyone know where i can get the PCBA board that the scroller is attached to? this subboard attaches to the mainboard. I opened this POS phone and found that the little chip that attaches the subboard to the main board came off hence why i could no longer scroll or any audio from the speaker. I don't want to sauter this little chip because i can hardly see the contact because it is so small. Please if someone knows where i can get the part from, let me know.
Or if someone has a POS kaiser laying around because it is broken, and want to sell this part, let me know
Thanks,
Mo
Mo76 said:
Hello,
Does anyone know where i can get the PCBA board that the scroller is attached to? this subboard attaches to the mainboard. I opened this POS phone and found that the little chip that attaches the subboard to the main board came off hence why i could no longer scroll or any audio from the speaker. I don't want to sauter this little chip because i can hardly see the contact because it is so small. Please if someone knows where i can get the part from, let me know.
Or if someone has a POS kaiser laying around because it is broken, and want to sell this part, let me know
Thanks,
Mo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
POS ? hmmm if its no good for you, then why do you want to fix it ?
I was just venting because i have no audio. It's a good phone aside from missing gfx driver, hopefully comin soon.
The part number is 51H00396-00M but not sure where to get it from.
EDIT: I may of found the part that i am looking for from http://cnn.cn/shop/ they'll let me know by next week. I hope they have it.

Diamond Stopped vibrating

My Alltel Touch Diamond stopped vibrating. Since I did not get it from Alltel directly...they will not replace it even though it is only 3 months old. Contacted HTC as well as PCD and no help there. Is there anyway I can fix this myself?
TIA
Go to eBay and search for 'htc diamond vibrator'. There are around $45. I never use the ringer so not having vibrate mode is killing me too.
possiblility
the ebay "vibrators" for diamond are for the gsm versions, not the cdma. note that they are laid completely differently. here's a pic of cdma (ripped from someone who knows)
ftp://ppcgeeks.com/Diamond/Users/snovvman/DSCF2199.JPG
now, in my case, kind of neat. if you open the case up that far (four screws on inside, that's all), you'll notice that the vibrator motor can be detached from mainboard relatively easy through the two pin (black/red) header. you can test the vibrator motor with like some AAA 1.5V battery or something. in my case it worked, so drats, that means that the driver could be blown.
however, i looked real closely, above the header are discrete components, like a tantalum capacitor (surface mount), super tiny, and something that didn't make sense--a cold solder blob over one land pad (but not the other, ... perhaps there was one at manufacture time and it fell out??)
anyways, htc apparently intended for either an inductor or a short (0 ohm resistor) at that land pattern. sometimes they cheat and just manufacture it as with a blob of solder. in this case part of the blob fell out. hence, no connection to the vibrator motor header.
i put blob in and i was in business.
note that these are super tiny. DO NOT ATTEMPT without sufficient tools (magnifying jig, really fine tip soldering iron)
...
OF COURSE before you do ANY of this, try a hard reset first.
Thanks! I almost wasted $45.
pictures
Could you take some pictures of the areas you soldered? Im also trying to fix mine.
Also, to test the vibrator, did you just take two wires and put it on each end?
Sorry for bringing back to life this old threat but this appear to be a very common issue among diam500 owners and nobody knew what to do apart from swap it (if it still in warranty which by 3rd quarter 2010 i really doubt someone still has it)
i googled around lots of forums and this was the only one with a real answer surprisingly this was also the one with the less replies... i confirm what chnhnm said THERE IS A 0 OHM RESISTOR THAT FELL OFF(perhaps caused by the vibration itself and real poor quality soldering from htc in this specific resistor) when i gutted my diamond the resistor was still there sticked to the vibrating motor connector in the mainboard i tested it with a multimeter and confirmed it is a "0 ohm one" real tiny color black)
once again as chnhnm said i just put blob in and it worked like a charm
so there is a relatively easy fix here (if u have the tools and some soldering skills) i strongly recommend you to try this as your last resort
will post some pics later
im uploading a picture of it before i applied the blob (the resistor is missing) this is the best one i could get i hope u cant see it
elamodelmerol said:
im uploading a picture of it before i applied the blob (the resistor is missing) this is the best one i could get i hope u cant see it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for this! I will do this soon when I get a soldering iron.
Ok, I tried doing this, but it is hard to solder it. Everytime I try to put the blob there, the solder attaches to the iron and doesn't stick to the connection on the board.
Can I get some help on how to keep it on the connection instead of melting and sticking to my iron?
sorry for the late reply...
well i don't really know how to solder either but i have learnt something by just giving it a try(and a few youtube videos xD) ...this is how i did it.
first off make sure the surface is clean wipe it if needed with acetone(don't flood the board) and a cotton swab (that will remove the grease and dirt it may have)
be careful not to apply to much solder on the iron tip...just use a little bit more almost nothing than the needed to coat the tip...
do not overheat ur iron that will cause the metal to oxidize quicker (oxide prevent the metals from joining) unplug the iron as soon as it is hot enough to melt the solder
use some soldering flux be careful not to add too much just enough to cover that tiny area (u can use a needle) this cleans even more the area and prevents the metal oxidation
now u just need a steady hand and eagle like vision
even after following this directions i still find it hard to achieve for a noob like me maybe i just got lucky...xD
if you are out of luck maybe u can buy one of this conductive ink pens and that way u just have to draw fine line or should i say a dot. Or u can try using a pencil (graphite is a relative good conductor) but that didn't work for me...
Good Luck Mate

[Q] Streak replacement capacitive buttons.

I damaged my Capacitive buttons (flex circuit).
Can anyone recommend where to get a replacement part?
Lol. I did the same thing. Ladies and gentlemen please wait for the plastic tool to arrive in the mail before you start trying to disassemble your streak! I used a screwdriver and it cut through the flexible circuit card. Contemplated fixing it, but there`s five tracks on the circuit board!
I got a quote from an ebay seller in the UK for the capacitive buttons and plastic bezel. 90 pounds plust postage. What a rip off! I ended up buying a complete streak from ebay. It was locked to O2 and had the lcd bleeding problem, but perfect for me. Keep your eye out.
In the meantime, install softkeys from the market. It is a replacement home/settings/back button. A little inconvenient, but keeps you going while you bide your time on evilbay.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
printed circuits
My first streak also has a broken capacitive circuit board, didn't use this plastic tool for disassembling..
Now i use a old modified tooth brush
Was ready to ask a flexible board manufacturer what it would cost to reproduce such a circuit but for now i'm also using softkeys..
Maybe if we get 100 people together who needs one of those capacitive button circuits its worth asking a reproduction?
Thanks for the inputs. I got the key to work again after some fiddling. I'm just waiting for it to inevitably fail. I'll probably just get a new phone when that happens.
how do you get it broken? not that i wanted too, but it sound strange to me
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Pretty easy... First time pulling it apart, had not seen any videos of the process. Fixit. Com (OR IFIXIT?) wasn't that comprehensive. Of course I was overtired and of course used a small screwdriver instead of a plastic removal tool.
Excuses, excuses. The screwdriver ultimately was the wrong thing.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Does anyone know where i can buy the Streak front 4 buttons and volume rocker buttons ribbons ?
http://www.dellstreakrepairs.co.uk/spares.html
I broke my capacitive button ribbon cable, anyone have any luck finding replacements? I'm going to try to repair it.
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Posted in error
is it available now . coz i searched all through the internet and couldnt find the home and back buttons strip .
DashingGentleman said:
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I may attempt this...$40usd for a new assembly is a bit high...
You can find the top/bottom parts on Ebay and on Lingosbox.com
I've purchased some spare parts for other phones on lingosbox - they are not genuine oem parts but for this price, it's a bargain for replacement parts that are rare/difficult to find. There's some delay(15-27days) but everything has arrived without any problem.
good to know someone found it cheaper

[Q] Hardware Help

Hi guys
Does anybody know what is the small battery soldered to pcb, and does anyone have schematic of it?
netto99 said:
Hi guys
Does anybody know what is the small battery soldered to pcb, and does anyone have schematic of it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not getting what you wrote...
When you take off red back cover from a phone you'll see printed circuit board (pcb) or motherboard if you like. All chips, processors and ICs are soldered to it. In the bottom left corner there is a very small tablet battery soldered to the board (or at least this thing looks like battery). I'm trying to find out what it is, and is it possible to replace it, mine fell of.
netto99 said:
When you take off red back cover from a phone you'll see printed circuit board (pcb) or motherboard if you like. All chips, processors and ICs are soldered to it. In the bottom left corner there is a very small tablet battery soldered to the board (or at least this thing looks like battery). I'm trying to find out what it is, and is it possible to replace it, mine fell of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are talking about the little rectangle thing at the bottom left that has a clear view to it, thats the vibrator.
I guess nobody have seen pcb of their phone.
It'll be as was said, the vibrator, I've had mine in pieces and there's no battery onboard or after reflashing or battery removal the internal clocks would not reset.
Schematics don't show an internal battery either although they're not HTC's in any case. Failing soldering it back on and it's still not working leave as is or remove it, probably make battery last longer
Bashing away with my Desire C
Check here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2272612
It does look like a motherboard battery like you'd find on a pc motherboard, normally this would keep the time and date and bios settings.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk
If you're insisting it's a battery (I wonder why you lose all settings for WDOG, TCK etc within a couple of mins tops???) It's more than likely just a capacitor set for slow discharge whilst you put the actual battery back in, or it's just the vibrator ... No battery... It's not on the BOM either
Bashing away at my HTC Desire C

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