I have rooted my Captivate with Cognition 2.1 and decided to try a new rom. Cognition 2.2. In the middle of the process the update would not complete and after an hour of waiting I pulled the usb cable. Now it does not power at all or make a connection with the laptop. I have tried all sorts of three button and two button methods along with building the homemade jig but it still does not go.
On the three battery prongs the one on the left is facing up. Would this keep the phone from charging or starting up. There is wear marks on the battery on that spot so I would assume it is making connection. From what I read these phones do come back to life but it is a charging issue then it will not happen. Also was thinking that the captivate will power on without a battery through the USB or power cable.
Have talked to ATT and they will not do a warranty on the phone because of the bent prong (does not matter if it has nothing to do with whats wrong with the phone) it has physical damage.
well that just sucks don't it? lols
i know this is probably a pretty obvious question but did you try to bend the prong back so it matches the other ones?
i have tried to bend it back but it just seems to bounce back to where it was. was thinking about pulling the whole back off the phone but I have never taken a captivate apart so not quite sure what it entails.
etm11871 said:
i have tried to bend it back but it just seems to bounce back to where it was. was thinking about pulling the whole back off the phone but I have never taken a captivate apart so not quite sure what it entails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ive never taken one apart either but i would imagine that you would need a small screw driver and wouldnt have to take more than the back cover off.
here is a pictoral teardown of the phone
http://content.techrepublic.com.com/2346-13625_11-456848.html
OK I guess the captivate is coming apart. I supposed this would call for a u-tube video
etm11871 said:
OK I guess the captivate is coming apart. I supposed this would call for a u-tube video
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you take a picture of it with another camera so someone else could tell you if it appears as it should?
etm11871 said:
OK I guess the captivate is coming apart. I supposed this would call for a u-tube video
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not hard to take apart....just pry up slightly in center of battery lock slide to expose two bottom screws and a fingernail to pry case apart...no scratches that way. The tabs holding it together are breakable but working around the entire device gradually works well.
PICTURES
here are some pictures of the battery pronges
etm11871 said:
here are some pictures of the battery pronges
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They might not do a warranty exchange, but you aren't killed. I don't see why you think taking the phone apart is going to make any difference, as the prong is damaged on the outside of the phone.
As for if thats the cause of the brick, I doubt it. Unless you bent the prong AFTER you pulled the USB cable, i don't think it's the problem. It wouldn't work for awhile and then decide not to just because you botched a flash.
When you bend them back into place, does it look normal before it pops back? And I work at AT&T, I deal with that crap every day. Word to the wise; don't mention it, they don't bother looking.
Late Edit: Has your prong been bent before, and is the wear mark on the batteries connector in the same spots as the other ones? With the way yours is positioned, it might not be making a full connection.
I do not think the battery prong is my problem either. The girl at the store mentioned it to the so called Android specialist and she said that was physical damage and because of that ATT would charge me $454 for a new phone even if it had nothing to do with why the phone will not turn on. I would have to assume that I am now black flagged on my account.
I am going to hold off on taking the phone apart and see about trying some other suggestions first. Of course not sure what those suggestions are at this point.
This is not Development related.
etm11871 said:
here are some pictures of the battery pronges
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That same thing happened to me, it still worked fine for me, but I ended up bricking it a bit later. I used insurance and got a new phone, bricked it, sent both in to samsung, the fixed the prongs on the broken one, (yeah I didn't send back the phone to AT&T's insurance, **** em) and reflashed both of them to stock firmware, and got them both back, in working condition. But always make sure you have Button combos before flashing. In the Wiki there's a link to DesignGear's fix you can flash with Clockwork.
I think I would just carefully push the bad pin down as you insert the battery. Don't take the battery out unless you have to.
geokhentix said:
I don't see why you think taking the phone apart is going to make any difference, as the prong is damaged on the outside of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't understand the need to pull the phone apart. As a temp fix, u could try soldering a small copper wire piece to the battery terminal, either on the battery or on the phone.
If you don't want to get into the mess of soldering, place the battery and push the single strand wire into it so the contact is made. Or else u could put the wire on the bottom and bend it little so it stands up touching the connector, and place the battery on top of it.
May want to edit those pics and black out the IMEI and other info.
Problem with just doing the temp fix in order to get your phone back into download mode - one of the last steps is jamming the battery back in with the USB cable plugged in while holding down both VOLUME buttons.
But - um you don't even see the grey battery charging icon?
There are other ways to get into download mode. He could apply the temp fix, open odin, hold both volume buttons, then plug the usb cable in. That's what I do.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
How bout you go back to another art store, say you where doing an ota update, and when you went to turn your phone on, all you got was a bland screen
Related
The ExtUSB port on my tytn2 seems to be broken, or something.
When I plug it into my computer it is no longer recognised, and doesn't even start to charge anymore.
Similarly, if I plug in any sort of charger, then the device will not do anything.
In an effort to charge it, I did the following. I removed the battery, thereby switching the device totally off, put the battery back in and then attached a mains charger. At this point I got a solid red LED at the top where the signal/charge LED is. I left it like this for 2 hours and came back to it. I switched it back on and it had fully charged the device - yet I still could not get it recognised by anything.
So what's going on here - is it broken or is this a software issue.
Ignore the reflash bit. How am I supposed to do that if I can't get USB working? Stupid question sorry. Still, I've tried a hard reset and still nothing, so I guess it's knackered huh
EDIT: Replacement is on it's way for tomorrow. Puts an end to that saga I suppose!
HTC's miniUSB port uses traces for contacts instead of pins, which I can't even begin to express how ridiculous that is. To make matters worse, the soft reset pinhole is located right next to it so one slight jab of the stylus, car keys in your pocket etc and you're screwed. You may have done it without even noticing.
Flashing roms is out of the question, but you can use PocketController to make it look as stock as possible through wifi. Another alternative is to take your device to a college/university micro-electronics lab where they will fix it for a small donation or free.
dazultra2000 said:
Ignore the reflash bit. How am I supposed to do that if I can't get USB working? Stupid question sorry. Still, I've tried a hard reset and still nothing, so I guess it's knackered huh
EDIT: Replacement is on it's way for tomorrow. Puts an end to that saga I suppose!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best of luck, but it might not be the end of your saga. When it gets to servicing, if they notice something was jabbed in the miniSUB port, they could come at you with out of warranty fees.
I have insurance on my phone. It's covered for accidental damage anyway.
Yep. Figured that out the hard way. Accidently stuck my stylus into the USB rather than the reset hole.
If you're lucky, you may be able to "push" the traces on the bottom side of the connector back in place... only one side of my connector was bent. Then I gently connected and re-connected a mini-usb connector.
dazultra2000 said:
I have insurance on my phone. It's covered for accidental damage anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where are you getting insurance ? I can't find anywhere.
Thanks,
DLD
With Orange! Orange Care. Has done me proud a few times in the past, like when I crushed my SPV M2000 on the day I got it! Or when someone dropped my SE K700i in a pint of beer.
New phone is here and instantly I have noticed a couple of things:
1) Different type of battery, as already reported by some people. It's the Dynapack that doesn't quite fit properly.
2) Screen seems brighter and more colourful - again, as reported by some people already
3) The screen tilt is much stiffer (which is good cos the old one was really loose)
4) MicroSD cover feels of better material.
5) Whole thing feels so much quicker - but that's probably just because I've not loaded anything into it yet.
This is really bugging me but on occasion, when I slam the keyboard shut, the phone turns off. It also has happened when I opened the keyboard but only a few times.
I actually dissassembled the phone to see if maybe it was a loose connection somewhere. I did find that the keyboard ribbon cable was loosely connected so I reseated it firmly...but the problem didn't go away.
I also thought it may be either the SIMM card or the memory card contacts but after removing them, again, I still can reproduce the problem.
Understand that this is an intermittent problem and a little unpredictable but I can make it happen within a few tries. If I cautiously open and close the keyboard (without slamming it shut), I have no problems.
I don't believe it's software related because I can force it to happen when the device is booting up (with the Ericsson logo on the screen) before the OS loads.
Anyone else experiencing this?????
11/17/08 UPDATE: PROBLEM RESOLVED!
After further review and testing, it appears that the battery was losing connection to the battery contacts. I shoved a small crumb of paper folded up (about 1mm thick) at the back of the batt and the problem has gone away. Of course, I'm still holding my breath every time I open and close the keyboard but it looks like that may have been the problem. That's strange because I'm using the original battery. Thought this may help in case anyone else ever runs into this.
That sounds like a problem with the internals, maybe a you should get it replaced/repaired?
Kid says to doctor " IT hurts when I twist my arm backward like this." Doctor replies "then don't do that"
You say "my phone shuts off when I slam my keyboard shut" Doctor says "don't slam your keyboard shut"
this thought just made me laugh.
Seriously though. It does sound like an internal hardware issue that you should have fixed otherwise it may just get worse and start happening more regularly and at very inconvenient times.
Good luck.
Reminds me of my samsung slider phone the day that it died. I was sliding it back and forth.. sometimes the screen would go completely white and then come back.
By the end of the day, it went white and stayed that way.
Turns out the cable on the inside was slowly being cut from rubbing against the metal hole it was going thru every time the slider moved.
You've checked the cables before... but maybe its not cut yet, but something on the slider mechanism is hitting a wire/pulling on it.
Nobody knows.
But we all do know thats not normal. So yea get it replaced.
LOL!
hotrod101 said:
Kid says to doctor " IT hurts when I twist my arm backward like this." Doctor replies "then don't do that"
You say "my phone shuts off when I slam my keyboard shut" Doctor says "don't slam your keyboard shut"
this thought just made me laugh.
Seriously though. It does sound like an internal hardware issue that you should have fixed otherwise it may just get worse and start happening more regularly and at very inconvenient times.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's funny!!!
I think you're right...
Nippero said:
Reminds me of my samsung slider phone the day that it died. I was sliding it back and forth.. sometimes the screen would go completely white and then come back.
By the end of the day, it went white and stayed that way.
Turns out the cable on the inside was slowly being cut from rubbing against the metal hole it was going thru every time the slider moved.
You've checked the cables before... but maybe its not cut yet, but something on the slider mechanism is hitting a wire/pulling on it.
Nobody knows.
But we all do know thats not normal. So yea get it replaced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep...It's going back. Might as well get a fresh one. I know this problem existed for other phones before and the fix was mostly something simple that didn't require a replacement.
im getting exactly the same problem. gonna send mine back as well.
i have the exact same problem too! Waiting for a new one...
i thought i was the only one with this problem, but it looks like a production error as there are already 3 people on this board who have this defect.
technillion said:
This is really bugging me but on occasion, when I slam the keyboard shut, the phone turns off. It also has happened when I opened the keyboard but only a few times.
I actually dissassembled the phone to see if maybe it was a loose connection somewhere. I did find that the keyboard ribbon cable was loosely connected so I reseated it firmly...but the problem didn't go away.
I also thought it may be either the SIMM card or the memory card contacts but after removing them, again, I still can reproduce the problem.
Understand that this is an intermittent problem and a little unpredictable but I can make it happen within a few tries. If I cautiously open and close the keyboard (without slamming it shut), I have no problems.
I don't believe it's software related because I can force it to happen when the device is booting up (with the Ericsson logo on the screen) before the OS loads.
Anyone else experiencing this?????
11/17/08 UPDATE: PROBLEM RESOLVED!
After further review and testing, it appears that the battery was losing connection to the battery contacts. I shoved a small crumb of paper folded up (about 1mm thick) at the back of the batt and the problem has gone away. Of course, I'm still holding my breath every time I open and close the keyboard but it looks like that may have been the problem. That's strange because I'm using the original battery. Thought this may help in case anyone else ever runs into this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep, my problem seems to have gone now as well by using you're method. i was almost ready to send it back and then i saw you're post and tried your method and it worked !
Thats a pretty stupid mistake by SE...
They should do a quick fix by making new batters a smidge thicker. Of course they probably wouldn't offer free replacements, but they should fix it anyway.
technillion said:
11/17/08 UPDATE: PROBLEM RESOLVED!
After further review and testing, it appears that the battery was losing connection to the battery contacts. I shoved a small crumb of paper folded up (about 1mm thick) at the back of the batt and the problem has gone away. Of course, I'm still holding my breath every time I open and close the keyboard but it looks like that may have been the problem. That's strange because I'm using the original battery. Thought this may help in case anyone else ever runs into this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you place the paper exactly ? On the back of the battery where all the info text is or on the bottom ?
When my device is cold, eg in the morning for first use, this sometimes doesnt happen for >20x tries...but when i used it for a longer time and it almost always shuts down when slammed shut..but i already thought it might be something with the battery, but sometimes while slamming it shut for numerous times even the battery cover would come up and it didnt shut down...then in another situation it shuts down immediatly
Poor design...
toxical said:
Where did you place the paper exactly ? On the back of the battery where all the info text is or on the bottom ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea...what I found with the design is that the ribbon cable connecting the keyboard sits right under the battery. In fact you can see the protrusion when you remove the battery under the white label. It moves when the keyboard is opened and closed. Slightly...but it does move.
...anyway...I folded a small piece of paper to wrap around the back edge of the battery.
Try this:
1. Make a small rectangular strip of paper about 10mm x 20mm and fold it the long way so you end up with a 5mm x 20mm piece.
2. Wrap it around the back/bottom edge of the battery as you reinsert it.
(If the battery fits more snug in its compartment, you got it right!)
3. Put the back cover back on--which should also be more snug.
4. Turn on the device and try it out (slam the keyboard).
(You don't have to wait for it to completely boot up...you can test it when the SE logo appears).
Be careful to use regular copy paper and not paper that's too thick as it may cause some other damage/problems with the device.
could you make a picture of that ?
Actually i will recieve a new device tomorrow, but i still have the feeling that this problem might reoccur as it seems to be a design flaw
technillion said:
11/17/08 UPDATE: PROBLEM RESOLVED!
After further review and testing, it appears that the battery was losing connection to the battery contacts. I shoved a small crumb of paper folded up (about 1mm thick) at the back of the batt and the problem has gone away. Of course, I'm still holding my breath every time I open and close the keyboard but it looks like that may have been the problem. That's strange because I'm using the original battery. Thought this may help in case anyone else ever runs into this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm currently playing around with an old XV6800 I got off ebay, and this seems to have fixed the problem, so thanks
I had the same problem too.. but it was linked with the flex cable. Now i just don't use my keyboard even after fixing it.
PLZ help im freaking out. i accidentally booted into the blue light mode, but when i pulled the battery and rebooted the backlight wouldnt work. i could see everything and even navigate my phone but only under a light. the backlight just wont turn on during boot and changing the setting doesnt help.
i dont get it the thing was working 10 minutes ago and now i cant use it what should i do? i love this phone but i cant afford a new one. is there a way to tell it to turn on during boot in the console?
ok new update the backlight works if i have the keyboard open. i know 100% its software and not the screen. something when wrong with the boot prosses or something.
i think the trackball boot (bluelight boot) must have options but wont display on the screen maybe. like a bios menu. this is very infuriating
Why don't you restore a recent backup?
i have even went as far as downgrading with the .nbh file. and re installing the bootloader (Just the original, didnt want a brick).
Definitely NOT a software problem.
This is a HARDWARE problem -- hence the fact that it works when the keyboard is open.
When you pulled the battery, you might have twisted/pulled something.
*** I would check the ribbon cable connecting the display to the main body!!!
Bluelight mode (where you end up by booting with the trackball pushed in), is just a serial console allowing interfacing with the radio firmware. Unless you actually had a serial cable connected and punched in some commands (which happen to be security locked, therefore wouldn't work for you anyways), bluelight mode wouldn't be able to do this.
lbcoder said:
Definitely NOT a software problem.
This is a HARDWARE problem -- hence the fact that it works when the keyboard is open.
When you pulled the battery, you might have twisted/pulled something.
*** I would check the ribbon cable connecting the display to the main body!!!
Bluelight mode (where you end up by booting with the trackball pushed in), is just a serial console allowing interfacing with the radio firmware. Unless you actually had a serial cable connected and punched in some commands (which happen to be security locked, therefore wouldn't work for you anyways), bluelight mode wouldn't be able to do this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if that were the case than wouldnt it flicker if i flex the screen/hinge ? ill try anything at this point cuz im outa warranty and have no money . im going to the store later trying to update to official 1.6 so i can convince them its software related and they may replace it for me.
oh forgot to mention that if i close it and open it the light stays off untill i hit end and unlock with menu again. im not to sure if that helps.
OK OK OK you are right. i just half closed it and the light stayed on untill it compleatly closed (so the screen flipped, i thought that is what triggered it) and then i got it to stay on completely closed and then the problem flipped to it wouldnt come on while open and now back to the way it was. so im going to go buy a T5 screw driver today and clean the contacts of the ribon cable and reinsert it (i have had experience with that just need to know what ribon. a pic would be nice)
projectzro said:
OK OK OK you are right. i just half closed it and the light stayed on untill it compleatly closed (so the screen flipped, i thought that is what triggered it) and then i got it to stay on completely closed and then the problem flipped to it wouldnt come on while open and now back to the way it was. so im going to go buy a T5 screw driver today and clean the contacts of the ribon cable and reinsert it (i have had experience with that just need to know what ribon. a pic would be nice)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is only one ribbon running to the screen. Try THAT one.
lbcoder said:
There is only one ribbon running to the screen. Try THAT one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL lbcoder - always practical.
lbcoder said:
There is only one ribbon running to the screen. Try THAT one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol ok didn't know that a lot of the devices I have taken apart have had 2 one for the desplay and one for the backlight. Getting a T5 screw driver in half an hour. Will post results later. Hopefully this works, therr area few more ppl with the same problem.
projectzro said:
lol ok didn't know that a lot of the devices I have taken apart have had 2 one for the desplay and one for the backlight. Getting a T5 screw driver in half an hour. Will post results later. Hopefully this works, therr area few more ppl with the same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are two wires going to the screen.. sounds like the "top" one is loose... The jtag photos will give you an idea (it's the two com ports next to the jtag test points)
These are usually taped down very well..
Also you need both a T5 and T6.. the "Security" (has black void sticker) screw is larger than the others.. and a small flat head screwdriver to unclip the cover..
If all else fails: replacement screens seem much cheaper than the phone on ebay.
ezterry said:
There are two wires going to the screen.. sounds like the "top" one is loose... The jtag photos will give you an idea (it's the two com ports next to the jtag test points)
These are usually taped down very well..
Also you need both a T5 and T6.. the "Security" (has black void sticker) screw is larger than the others.. and a small flat head screwdriver to unclip the cover..
If all else fails: replacement screens seem much cheaper than the phone on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok got it apart 3 times and no luck its prolly the ribbon cable. im going to test that soon. i have a donor phone comming soon from a friend who dropped it in water, the ribbon cable should be fine to use. if that doesnt work im thinking maybe it is software. either way if i cant get it fixed by next month im spending $410 on a new mytouch 3G brand new from the store and getting insurance XP
I dropped my phone in water and took the battery out to let everything dry. The phone turns on now and seems to work for the most part, but I am having trouble with the internet connection and also my new text messages are not showing up. I can see all of the old ones, though. I wanted to know if anyone knows how to take the phone apart. I've removed the screws, but can't figure out how to take the back off. Any help would be great!
Sunkist79 said:
I dropped my phone in water and took the battery out to let everything dry. The phone turns on now and seems to work for the most part, but I am having trouble with the internet connection and also my new text messages are not showing up. I can see all of the old ones, though. I wanted to know if anyone knows how to take the phone apart. I've removed the screws, but can't figure out how to take the back off. Any help would be great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im away from home at the moment but I haven't got a clue, in saying that, isn't the galaxy S2 almost identical? maybe worth looking in to,
im also guessing that its probably just a case of slipping a very thin piece of hard plastic down the edge unclipping the plastic clips
however, in saying all that, i seriously doubt its anything to do with water damage. your radio will either work or wont work, you can either get calls, internet and sms/mms or you cant,l water is very unlikely to effect the radio "some" of the time, if the device is dried out its highly unlikely that opening it up will make any difference other than the fact you will have a broken phone that now looks like you've opened it up as well.
first things first, id format the thing and see if that works, its not beyond reason to suggest that perhaps the phone was doing something important before it took up scuba diving and perhaps it didn't get to finish it meaning corrupt files etc, if it doesn't, you could leave it in a warm dry environment for a day or so to make sure it is completely dry, if its still buggered you'll be pretty much screwed, there is minimal user serviceable parts inside, esp to do with the radio.
Sunkist79 said:
I dropped my phone in water and took the battery out to let everything dry. The phone turns on now and seems to work for the most part, but I am having trouble with the internet connection and also my new text messages are not showing up. I can see all of the old ones, though. I wanted to know if anyone knows how to take the phone apart. I've removed the screws, but can't figure out how to take the back off. Any help would be great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I take my focus s apart almost weekly when I'm bored watching tv haha. Once you have all the screws removed, slide your finger nail between the glass of the screen and the bezel and pull away from the screen. The whole back side is snapped onto the screen and internal components. While applying pressure to the back with the battery removed helps a lot. Just note that the speaker will stay inside the plastic backing and can be popped out if needed. From what I'm willing to try, I've removed both cameras, antenna, and a few other things I forget. Overall it comes apart really easy and goes together just as easy. Good luck!
Sunkist79 said:
I dropped my phone in water and took the battery out to let everything dry. The phone turns on now and seems to work for the most part, but I am having trouble with the internet connection and also my new text messages are not showing up. I can see all of the old ones, though. I wanted to know if anyone knows how to take the phone apart. I've removed the screws, but can't figure out how to take the back off. Any help would be great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
Recently i connected my Focus S a data cable damaged and made me a curt circuit in the power adapter, which it broke down the device.
The repair was very simple and the device is simple to open.
This is what i replaced:
http://viewitem.eim.ebay.pt/New-Usb...Samsung-i937-w-Tracking-Num/350588022212/item
See the photos you see how to disassemble the device.
Hello, Today I will show you how to replace a problematic sim/microsd/volume/power. The reason why they can be fixed together is because they are all on the same PCB that we will be replacing.
I made this guide because I went snowboarding and I dropped my phone in the snow. I tried the rice trick but after that my power button was still dying. I looked up prices for getting a professional to replace it and it was around $60 for a part that costs $10 MAX. So i just bought the part off of ebay and documented my process
EDIT: if the pictures don't show up, just right click and open in new tab for now
EDIT: There is now no need to remove the motherboard to solve this issue
Credits:
http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairsUniverse
and
http://www.youtube.com/user/RuedasLocas
DISCLAIMER: I DO NOT TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU MANAGE TO MESS UP YOUR DEVICE. TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Prerequisite:
-A brain​-Spare Sim Card Reader Tray Holder
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hot-Sim...x-Cable-Replacement-for-LG-P880-/301129602162
-Read/Watch all the links below
http://androidforums.com/lg-optimus...us-4x-hd-screen-replacement-repair-guide.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFmHFNKY8og
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGD64_g-ssE
After you are done, do it again to make sure you understand it
You can download these pictures from here
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8kdrxz28aku1x9x/tMsO_WAAuV
Tools I Used:
Small flathead
Small Philipshead
Thin pointy object
Scissors
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p9es5uyfej3jymz/1.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1evpx5782ei5nen/2.jpg
1) Remove these Screws only because the others are not required
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lub8senef5uhsqa/IMG_20140414_151433.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3dw6lf5rtqsslut/IMG_20140414_153856.jpg
2) Use the flathead to pry off the cover from the frame
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1nqhr45zzoa4ssf/IMG_20140414_151527.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a0ladgpn954fpkr/IMG_20140414_151534.jpg
3) Use the flathead to pry off the cover from the frame
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1nqhr45zzoa4ssf/IMG_20140414_151527.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a0ladgpn954fpkr/IMG_20140414_151534.jpg
4) This is what it should look like
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fzb7wh8jnn4ljwq/IMG_20140414_151604.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rcbyzvql8uy6p20/IMG_20140414_151627.jpg
5) Remove the silver screw with the philips head and put it in a safe place
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0u1yl88w08y5011/IMG_20140414_151702.jpg
New "easy" method
6) You DO NOT need to remove all the connectors, only the ones in red
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5cgxcq2ocm7fkwi/IMG_20140414_151844 - Copy.jpg
Take note that the electronic above the sim card slot just needs to be peeled off gently, It is NOT a connector but it does rest on top of the PCB.
Also, you'll need to pry off the vibration motor (the circle to the right of the Sim card slot) as it is glued in
7) This is what the PCB looks like when separated from the motherboard
Note: your motherboard will still be in your phone, i just wanted to shop you what both parts look like
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ysyid9eu2v5jjw/IMG_20140414_152536.jpg
8) Get out your new PCB
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6130c74hcx...414_152619.jpg
If The PCB you ordered did not come with the shielding then follow these steps
Note: Your motherboard should still be in your phone
8.a) Remove the shielding from the back of the original PCB, be careful of the glue to not damage any components
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nfpuwzf3om1ib3s/IMG_20140414_152657.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/73sbx0k32f4x5x4/IMG_20140414_152731.jpg
8.b) Now, put the shielding back onto the motherboard, it should fit into place nicely
https://www.dropbox.com/s/li966nnqujajgog/IMG_20140414_153037.jpg
8.c) Take out your new PCB and connect the connector to the motherboard before, placing it on the shielding
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mn97igyuir7o9q6/IMG_20140414_153154.jpg
Make sure everything is secure
8.d) Take out your new PCB and connect the connector to the motherboard before, placing it on the shielding
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mn97igyuir7o9q6/IMG_20140414_153154.jpg
Make sure everything is secure
Old Method by removing mother board
Procedure:
Follow the steps from the guide here up to Figure 3.4
8.a) After removing the motherboard, remove the following connector
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bsgwmyf6t1djpdb/IMG_20140414_152518.jpg
8.b) Now just pry off the PCB from the motherboard, be weary of the adhesive
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ysyid9eu2v5jjw/IMG_20140414_152536.jpg
8.c) Get out your new PCB
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6130c74hcxd413x/IMG_20140414_152619.jpg
8.d) Remove the shielding from the back of the original PCB, be careful of the glue to not damage any components
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nfpuwzf3om1ib3s/IMG_20140414_152657.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/73sbx0k32f4x5x4/IMG_20140414_152731.jpg
8.e) Now, put the shielding back onto the motherboard, it should fit into place nicely
https://www.dropbox.com/s/li966nnqujajgog/IMG_20140414_153037.jpg
8.f) Take out your new PCB and connect the connector to the motherboard before, placing it on the shielding
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mn97igyuir7o9q6/IMG_20140414_153154.jpg
Make sure everything is secure
8.g) Slide the motherboard back into place inside the frame
(Make sure not to damage any connectors by safely getting them out of the way BEFORE putting in your motherboard)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ojvh1vftm6s3qza/IMG_20140414_153415.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f3k5f1c7qelaq74/IMG_20140414_153420.jpg
9) Reconnect all of the connectors you previously disconnected EXCEPT the volume and power
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v0oyeoaswkd0gb9/IMG_20140414_153602.jpg
10) Now carefully slide in the power and volume buttons into their correct spots
(I used the flathead the push the rockers out of the way to slide in the buttons)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l94dfverf2ziwl7/IMG_20140414_153832.jpg
Now test the feel of the buttons before putting the Screw back in. (You should hear the tactile feedback)
11) Screw in the screw you removed to get the motherboard out
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3dw6lf5rtqsslut/IMG_20140414_153856.jpg
12) Put the cover back on (do NOT put the screws back in yet) and see if the all the sides close properly
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e4sc0thp8ioi1dn/IMG_20140414_153954.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wyob0xuxaqkp8ve/IMG_20140414_154002.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7x46humbisb5lm7/IMG_20140414_154010.jpg
13) Well crap, i have a bump
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3h6mejmug79o8ar/IMG_20140414_154015.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/69w769ubiz03fpk/IMG_20140414_154131.jpg
Time to backtrack and see what is not seated properly
14) After all that is done and is properly fitted, Put in your sim car, micro sd, and battery
(Do NOT put in the screws yet)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/it26v6h7763flzs/IMG_20140414_154143.jpg
15) Now power on and see if it works
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fumzxsuewnqqgn4/IMG_20140414_154158.jpg
(Mine did, I was so happy I could cry!)
16) After it power on, test all your buttons
17)Test Cases:
Press power button once to see if the screen turns off
Press the power button to see if the Screen wakes up
Press the volume up to see if the volume increases
Press the volume down to see if the volume decreases
Check your sim connectivity, should have bars
Check your micro sd card by going to Setting>Storage>SD Card
Check your cameras
check your sound
If something does not work, backtrack and check all of your connections.
If your power or volume buttons don't work, check the PCB connection. If it still doesn't work, you might have received a defective PCB like I did (My volume buttons didn't work). Contact your seller and ask for a replacement for your defective item (I got mine for free and now everything works).
18) If everything works, NOW screw in your remaining screws and close her up and enjoy your day!
You can download these pictures from here
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8kdrxz28aku1x9x/tMsO_WAAuV
Don't forget to hit thanks!
vibration motor?
hi i have been following your instructions and everything has been going very smoothly. however, i cant figure out how you take out the vibration motor from the old pcb and put it into the new one. do you simply yank it out? i dont want to break anything, thanks!
bobbidik said:
hi i have been following your instructions and everything has been going very smoothly. however, i cant figure out how you take out the vibration motor from the old pcb and put it into the new one. do you simply yank it out? i dont want to break anything, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No do not yank it, the wires are sensitive, I used a soldering iron and heated the contacts up enough to the point where the wires were able to be pulled out. Then I soldered it to my new one. (Remember which wire goes to which contact)
don't forget to hit thanks!
abhi08638 said:
No do not yank it, the wires are sensitive, I used a soldering iron and heated the contacts up enough to the point where the wires were able to be pulled out. Then I soldered it to my new one. (Remember which wire goes to which contact)
don't forget to hit thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aww i dont know how to solder nor do i have a soldering kit. oh well, i guess i can live without the vibrate function. thanks anyways!
bobbidik said:
aww i dont know how to solder nor do i have a soldering kit. oh well, i guess i can live without the vibrate function. thanks anyways!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its honestly really easy and a good skill to learn, but there are PCBs with the motor already attached on eBay if you ever need it.
don't forget to hit thanks!
Awesome walkthrough.
I might use it one of these days as my power button is pretty much gone.
Thank you. I'm having weird SIM card reading issues. Flash the same ROM twice, and once it will detect the SIM, the other time it won't.
sketchman16 said:
Thank you. I'm having weird SIM card reading issues. Flash the same ROM twice, and once it will detect the SIM, the other time it won't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That doesn't mean anything is broken.
Try flashing a stock ROM and if it works then your sim tray is still working
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One
Don't forget to hit thanks!
So if I flash SlimKat 8.9 which I know the SIM card would read on before, and now it doesn't that doesn't mean it's a hardware thing?
Also, no custom ROM will now read the SIM. I've tried probably 5 since it started not reading. I'll try the stock ROM before I tear into it, I guess, but it seemed logical to me. IDK.
Radio is extremely crappy on this device. Custom roms don't implement all stock radio features so there can be (even randomly) broken things.
Hmm. Well, I tried to go back to stock. It just won't. Even got to a point where the LG update tool would flash in and out of being connected to the phone, and it would never settle on one or the other, so it can't do anything. Flash tool also reports no connection to the phone no matter what I do. I'm just about sick of this thing.
sketchman16 said:
Hmm. Well, I tried to go back to stock. It just won't. Even got to a point where the LG update tool would flash in and out of being connected to the phone, and it would never settle on one or the other, so it can't do anything. Flash tool also reports no connection to the phone no matter what I do. I'm just about sick of this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your recovery is still available, then just flash one of the stock 4.1.2 ROMs from the android development section
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One
Don't forget to hit thanks!
I don't suppose....
sketchman16 said:
Thank you. I'm having weird SIM card reading issues. Flash the same ROM twice, and once it will detect the SIM, the other time it won't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably a silly question but have you tried a different SIM card in the reader to see if it could be the SIM card itself that is a problem?
---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------
abhi08638 said:
Its honestly really easy and a good skill to learn, but there are PCBs with the motor already attached on eBay if you ever need it.
don't forget to hit thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that soldering is indeed a useful skill but I am not sure that a relatively expensive (and I am sure in everyone's eyes, precious) phone is the best place to start practicing; heat damage from a soldering iron can do irreversible damage to sensitive components as well as the copper tracks on the PCB.
Also, I may be a good idea to edit the guide a little to mention the possibility of needing to desolder/solder if the appropriate parts require it?
Yes, tried multiple SIM cards. None work on a custom ROM now. My first flash with SlimKat 8.9, was golden in every way but the camera. Then nothing but trouble with everything else. Even the "stable" CM 10 wasn't stable for me. I just managed to get a pure LG 20d ROM installed, and everything works fine. Battery life is even great. I started flashing custom ROMs to get a better device, but now with a rooted, Xposed, and stable stock ROM, I kind of wonder if it's worth bothering. It would be nice to have KK, but I don't really miss it TBH. I still have root, I still have "most" of what I liked about KK, and there are no more bugs.
Same with my original Nexus 7. Both had been flashed to KK of one sort or another (MANY times before I gave up), and both developed issues from it no matter how I did it. Went back to stock JB on both devices, and everything is fine.
If I flash any more custom ROMs I'm def going to keep a solid JB backup ready to get a stable device back if need be, and so far need be indeed.
Hello,
My LG Phone on KK stopped reading my SIMs a month or so back. I tried different SIMS, but still wont work. I flashed KK again and then later Lollipop AOSP, but still wont work. I thought maybe the SIM Reader was faulty, so ordered a new one. But even after changing, same problem. Don't know what the issue is. Can anyone suggest any further solutions / ideas ? Thanks.
....... duplicate message removed.....
abhi08638 said:
Hello, Today I will show you how to replace a problematic sim/microsd/volume/power. The reason why they can be fixed together is because they are all on the same PCB that we will be replacing.
.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I want to repair only power only button that has became defective and doesn't respond well I have to do all these steps?? OMG
Is this the right component to purchase to fix power switch? (see attachment)