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I have a problem, my Kaiser connects to my WiFi Router which is a Linksys WRT54GR. And then after 10 seconds or (sometimes 30 seconds) I have no datacom. I am still connected though but no data is being sent or received. If I turn the WiFi off and then on again on my kaiser then I am again able to communicate for about 30 seconds and then it stops again. Does anyone recognise the symptoms ?
Churchill said:
I have a problem, my Kaiser connects to my WiFi Router which is a Linksys WRT54GR. And then after 10 seconds or (sometimes 30 seconds) I have no datacom. I am still connected though but no data is being sent or received. If I turn the WiFi off and then on again on my kaiser then I am again able to communicate for about 30 seconds and then it stops again. Does anyone recognise the symptoms ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have tested the WiFi Kaiser connection with my LinkSys WAG54GS and gives me no problem, works fine...
Tested with DLink Access Point without problem.
LinkSys with WPA and DLink with WPE...
No problema at all, Kaiser makes better like my last PDA, an Hermes one.
Regards.
Try a different channel on the router.
Wifi is pretty weak compared to my other PDAs, iPaq 6915, Q9000, T830, make sure you put the slider on maxium performance and even then the range is not very good.
That's not the experience I have.
I use a Linksys WRT54GL router with Hyper-WRT firmware.
I've no problems at all.
The connection is stable and fast even with the slider totally to the right (max. battery save).
Well...
I have tryed different channel.
My probblem is still in place when I stand right next to the router and have a full reception
I do not loose the connection it just does not send & receive any data, but the connection is there all right...
Hyper WRT firmware... I once flashed my old (very old) linksys router with one of those things and the router died on me, how safe is it now and do you have any recomendations?
I use max battery as well and the Kaiser performs on my home net (4 Linksys Wireless G APs) just like my 8525 good performance even with fairly low signal. I've streamed Slingbox for several hours straight with no disconnects.
I saw this problem described on another forum and unfortunately, the guy had to return his Kaiser. New one worked flawlessly.
I have had mine connected to a USR & Sweex wifi router and it is perfectly fine for prolonged periods of time, It might be worth hard reseting it and trying the wifi first before doing anything else, if its still doing it then send the handset back.
Russ
Do you have the DHCP server enabled on your router ?
When disabled you have to enter manually an ip address on your TytnII within the same ip range.
Otherwise you can't send and receive data.
Furthermore this looks like a DNS problem.
Vanstra,
I know now that it is a DNS problem... My DHCP is on and now I also set the WiFi on the Kaiser to best performance... I have proper connection now. I did have to reboot my Server as it is the primary DNS in my network. Well so far so good. Strange only that I have 2 laptops one desktop and an XBOX and they all functioned perfectly all the time...
Hi guys!
I have a Touch Diamond 2. It's great and certainly an upgrade from my Touch Cruise!
I have a strange problem though. Whenever I try to connect through 3G (T-Mobile Netherlands), immediatly after it makes the connection, it gives the dialog 'cannot connect etc'. 3G is truly connected but no data is coming in.
Now I have found where the problem lies, sort of. 3G works fine when I don't configure my home Wifi connection. Whenever I configure that, 3G stops working. It doesn't matter if Wifi is turned on or off. 3G does have a dynamic ip, where my Wifi connection requires a static IP. But I make all these settings in the Wifi part of the configuration screen, the IP details are under the 802.11 b/g network card.
This used to work flawlessy on my Cruise. Anyone have a solution? Thanks!
good morning. as you are with tmobile i'd suggest you are having the same problems as me with tmobile uk. for some reason tmobile sets up a proxy server in your 3g data connection setup, this caused huge problems for me but clearing it solved them all.
try this first and see how you go.
Possible, but where exactly do I change the proxy settings of the 3G connection?
BeQuietAndDrive said:
Possible, but where exactly do I change the proxy settings of the 3G connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey that's a coincidence, just read the same question at GoT
I have similar problems.
Now and than my HSDPA connection works good, but at some moment I just can't reach any website.
Disconnecting and reconnecting to HSDPA sometimes helps, and sometimes I just have to wait a few minutes and than it works again.
I also tried another DNS (OpenDNS) but it doesn't solve the problem,
Proxy settings can be found at (I assume your dutch):
Instellingen> Meer> Verbindingen> Verbindingen> Mijn proxyserver instellen
At my TD2 is no proxy set, so thats not the cause.
Hope sombody else can help!
Do you have a static IP for WIFI as well? I kinda found out that setting WIFI on dynamic IP solves the 3G problem, so somehow they must be connected. But this should be able to work, it's almost as if 3G 'takes over' the static IP from the WIFI settings, but the connection settings from my 3G are offcourse set to dynamic.
I had exactly the same problem with my D2. I also had it on my Cruise with the later ROMs. The official HTC 6.1 ROM did not have this problem.
I experience it when I set up my wifi 802.11b/g network card in the phone to have a static IP address and set the default gateway. If I use DHCP there is no problem.
Setting the wifi card up on the phone DEFINITELY screws up the cellular data connection.
BeQuietAndDrive said:
Do you have a static IP for WIFI as well? I kinda found out that setting WIFI on dynamic IP solves the 3G problem, so somehow they must be connected. But this should be able to work, it's almost as if 3G 'takes over' the static IP from the WIFI settings, but the connection settings from my 3G are offcourse set to dynamic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a dynamic IP, for me it doesn't work.
With my dear old Wizard (MDA Vario) I had no problem at all with the same settings!
yup thought i was the only one with this problem need a fix for it soon man otherwise we are gettin bumped for not havin the settings coz we on t-mobile
I solved it temporarily by setting Wifi to dynamic IP, but this prevents me from connecting at work. I'll send HTC an e-mail, let's see if they are willing to hot-fix this one
for me i find that the web sites work but any app that requires to go online ie facebook, msn, sky fire etc jus dont work wen you try to connect online......... stupid t-mobile
My connection problems are gone.
Maybe I (we) encountered hickups with the T-Mobile proxy-server....
maybe You can help me.
I have a MDA V (germany T-Mobile) and i can not connect to my AP here at Home.
I have a ASUS WL500g configured as AP behind my Firewall/Router. All other device in my house, a Laptop, a Netbook and a 'WII' working fine!
All get the IP from the Router, the AP works transparent.
D2 will not connect. The Mac-Address from the D2 is configured in the AP, and i can see the router statuspage and see the MAC of the D2 sometimes in the list. But only as "associated" and never as "associated authorized" as the Laptop here in example:
-------------------------------------------------
Stations List:
-------------
00:23:76:yy:xx:xx associated <-D2
00:1C:BF:yy:xx:xx associated authorized <- Laptop
--------------------------------------------------
I configured a lot in the settings, but i cant get the D2 online with wifi.
Can someone plz help a bit?
-
other question: if i manage the problem some day, is it possible to configure the Networksettings of the D2 device in the way that the device only use USB and te WiFI-Connection to access the internet? I hat it that the device use mobile-internet connection without asking me to do so.
Same problem
BeQuietAndDrive said:
I solved it temporarily by setting Wifi to dynamic IP, but this prevents me from connecting at work. I'll send HTC an e-mail, let's see if they are willing to hot-fix this one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was experiencing the same problem, only with the difference that I am using 3 different Wi-Fi adapter settings every day (for 3 different networks - two with fixed IP and one with DHCP enabled. Most elegant solution that I came up with was a small, but very handy application called "WiFi Profiles". Settings for WiFi adapter are easily changed by choosing a profile that you want to use and applying it. Before you disconnect from WiFi network, you just set adapter to DHCP, and after that your GPRS/3G/HSDPA connection works like a charm. By the way, I am proud owner of Touch HD but I am using Dutty`s Topaz based rom V3.4 XTREME SHIP.
Hello everybody,
I've a very strange problem with my wifi: Sometimes if my Kindle Fire HD is in standby it seams to block all other devices connected on the same band as the kindle. When i Switch on the kindle then, everything goes back to normal.
If I connect my kindle to the 5GHz band and it goes to standby, all devices on the 5GHz band doesn't work after a random period of time. They are connected, but cannot even ping the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normal. When I switch on the kindle, the connection of the other devices immediately starts to work again.
If I connect my kindle to the 2,4GHz band, the same happens for the 2,4GHz devices and the 5GHz devices are working normal.
My router is a Netgear WNDR3800. At first, I thought it's a problem with the router, so I've done a factory reset on it already.
Someone else experience this behaivor and/or have a Resolution/Workaround for this?
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode - Upgrade to Firmware 1.0.0.40
eisbaer82 said:
Hello everybody,
I've a very strange problem with my wifi: Sometimes if my Kindle Fire HD is in standby it seams to block all other devices connected on the same band as the kindle. When i Switch on the kindle then, everything goes back to normal.
If I connect my kindle to the 5GHz band and it goes to standby, all devices on the 5GHz band doesn't work after a random period of time. They are connected, but cannot even ping the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normal. When I switch on the kindle, the connection of the other devices immediately starts to work again.
If I connect my kindle to the 2,4GHz band, the same happens for the 2,4GHz devices and the 5GHz devices are working normal.
My router is a Netgear WNDR3800. At first, I thought it's a problem with the router, so I've done a factory reset on it already.
Someone else experience this behaivor and/or have a Resolution/Workaround for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, this is a known Bug when running firmware older than 1.0.0.38. You need to upgrade to Firmware
Version Number 1.0.0.40, you may obtain the latest Firmware from Netgear:
http://downloadcenter.netgear.com/en/Disclaimer.aspx?redirecturl=http://netgeardownload.registria.com/single_page_registration?product[sku]=wndr3800&download_url=http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WNDR3800/WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip
Download WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip to your desktop, extract to WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40. Inside the WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40
folder will be the latest firmware. You will then login to the Netgear WNDR3800 through a web browser. The
default address is usually http://192.168.1.1/ or http://www.routerlogin.com/ the default username is admin and
the default password is password. If you changed the password, use whatever password you setup. Once you
are logged into Genie Basic, you need to Select Advanced > Administration > Firmware Update. Then click
on Browse, selecting the file file inside WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40 ending with .img
WARNING!
When uploading firmware to the router, do not interrupt the Web browser by closing the window, clicking a link, or loading a new page. If the browser is interrupted, it could corrupt the firmware.
When the upload is complete, your router restarts. The upgrade process typically takes about 1 to 3 minutes.
If this does not solve your problem, respond back and I will help you to change the router to 802.11b/g/n only.
What is your maximum download rate of your ISP? Is it greater than 54Mbps? Usually not, so I find 802.11b/g
to be more stable and actually faster since the router Processor does less work, thus is able to pass packets
faster than 802.11n. The limit is rarely the ISP, it is usually the router that bogs down the traffic.
Hi,
thanks for your response.
My Firmware is 1.0.0.40 already... My ISP download rate is 100MBit/s, I bought the router because of this. I've never had a problem with it until the kindle joined my network
I not really sure if you understand my problem, because you talking about router processor load and turning off 802.11n. It's also hard to explain for me, because my native language is german and the problem is really stange to me (I learned network administration, so I've knowledge about networking).
So, I try to explain the problem again
- Kindle is in standby
- After a random amount of time, no other device on the same wifi band (like the kindle, 5GHz) is able to transfer data to the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normaly at that point
- When I turn on the kindle now, the problem goes away (Until it goes to standby and a random amount of time passes).
- When I turn off the wifi of the kindle the problem completly goes away, so the problem seams to be the kindle (although it should not be possible for a device to block data transfer when it is in standby, maybe it's a power-saving feature that the kindle uses and all of my other devices does not and the router cannot handle the power-saving feature correctly. But this is only a thought)
I've no problems with my download speed or something. It's "only" that sometimes the kindle starts to block all data transfer (on the same band) in my wifi network when it is in standby.
[EDIT] But I will try if turning off mixed mode helps.
Regards,
Dennis
prokennexusa said:
Yes, this is a known Bug when running firmware older than 1.0.0.38. You need to upgrade to Firmware
Version Number 1.0.0.40, you may obtain the latest Firmware from Netgear:
http://downloadcenter.netgear.com/en/Disclaimer.aspx?redirecturl=http://netgeardownload.registria.com/single_page_registration?product[sku]=wndr3800&download_url=http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WNDR3800/WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip
Download WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip to your desktop, extract to WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40. Inside the WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40
folder will be the latest firmware. You will then login to the Netgear WNDR3800 through a web browser. The
default address is usually http://192.168.1.1/ or http://www.routerlogin.com/ the default username is admin and
the default password is password. If you changed the password, use whatever password you setup. Once you
are logged into Genie Basic, you need to Select Advanced > Administration > Firmware Update. Then click
on Browse, selecting the file file inside WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40 ending with .img
WARNING!
When uploading firmware to the router, do not interrupt the Web browser by closing the window, clicking a link, or loading a new page. If the browser is interrupted, it could corrupt the firmware.
When the upload is complete, your router restarts. The upgrade process typically takes about 1 to 3 minutes.
If this does not solve your problem, respond back and I will help you to change the router to 802.11b/g/n only.
What is your maximum download rate of your ISP? Is it greater than 54Mbps? Usually not, so I find 802.11b/g
to be more stable and actually faster since the router Processor does less work, thus is able to pass packets
faster than 802.11n. The limit is rarely the ISP, it is usually the router that bogs down the traffic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
eisbaer82 said:
Hi,
thanks for your response.
My Firmware is 1.0.0.40 already... My ISP download rate is 100MBit/s, I bought the router because of this. I've never had a problem with it until the kindle joined my network
I not really sure if you understand my problem, because you talking about router processor load and turning off 802.11n. It's also hard to explain for me, because my native language is german and the problem is really stange to me (I learned network administration, so I've knowledge about networking).
So, I try to explain the problem again
- Kindle is in standby
- After a random amount of time, no other device on the same wifi band (like the kindle, 5GHz) is able to transfer data to the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normaly at that point
- When I turn on the kindle now, the problem goes away (Until it goes to standby and a random amount of time passes).
- When I turn off the wifi of the kindle the problem completly goes away, so the problem seams to be the kindle (although it should not be possible for a device to block data transfer when it is in standby, maybe it's a power-saving feature that the kindle uses and all of my other devices does not and the router cannot handle the power-saving feature correctly. But this is only a thought)
I've no problems with my download speed or something. It's "only" that sometimes the kindle starts to block all data transfer (on the same band) in my wifi network when it is in standby.
[EDIT] But I will try if turning off mixed mode helps.
Regards,
Dennis
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
eisbaer82,
We are Network Engineers with over 30 years of experience. I really do understand your problem, we have seen it on
several Wireless Routers when running "Mixed Mode". Factory reset never solves the problem. It is my fault for not
including more detail with the last response, sorry I was in a rush. Since you have an awesome ISP and are running
100Mbps, you are correct 802.11n is your solution. To explain the problem, when a device falls a sleep, it is suppose
to release the 802.11n signal, falling a sleep. The problem is the Kindle falls a sleep and locks the 802.11n single in
an attempt to "keep alive" the WiFi Signal. What some routers do is detect this attempt to lock the signal and then
isolates the lock or plain disconnects the signal so it does not effect other users. The Netgear freezes when the
Kindle falls asleep and the locks the signal. This is a simple explanation to a complex problem. Here are your
solutions:
1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may
not solve the issue.
3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate . Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi
when the Kindle sleeps.
Take care.
> 1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
My wife will kill me if I do this
> 2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may not solve the issue.
I see no setting in my router for this. Maybe with DD-WRT?
> 3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate .
> Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi when the Kindle sleeps.
I think this will be the best solution for me
Thank you,
Dennis
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
eisbaer82 said:
> 1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
My wife will kill me if I do this
> 2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may not solve the issue.
I see no setting in my router for this. Maybe with DD-WRT?
> 3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate .
> Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi when the Kindle sleeps.
I think this will be the best solution for me
Thank you,
Dennis
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dennis,
I completely understand, we have to keep the wife happy! :good:
DD-WRT is a Linux-based firmware for wireless routers. It is compatible
with several routers, most notably the Linksys WRT54G series (including
the WRT54GL and WRT54GS). As with similar projects, DD-WRT is a
third-party firmware designed to replace the firmware that ships
pre-installed on many commercial routers. This is done for a variety of
reasons, including the addition of features which are not typically included
in a manufacturer's router firmware. Having said all this, I would try it
since DD-WRT handles the Mixed Mode differently than the stock
Netgear Firmware. Try it!
Hi,
Having the same issue with my cheap TP-Link TL-3220 (Atheros AR9285) running OpenWRT. After some days of KFHD being connected to WLAN, the router stops accepting wireless connections. Switching from mixed mode to pure 802.11g doesn't help, but after i restart hostapd it works back again, so i guess that the problem is with it. Tried to do some debugging, but failed -- hostapd doesn't provide any info when the problem occurs, it doesn't even report about connection attempts.
To avoid it i just disable Wi-Fi when the tablet isn't used. Besides it saves battery a lot .
UPD: Just remembered that i had the same problem with parents' ZTE W300 which the same Wi-Fi chip, and the OP's Netgear WNDR3800 has some Atheros wireless chips too. Looks like KFHD has such problems with Atheros.
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
buggerm said:
Hi,
Having the same issue with my cheap TP-Link TL-3220 (Atheros AR9285) running OpenWRT. After some days of KFHD being connected to WLAN, the router stops accepting wireless connections. Switching from mixed mode to pure 802.11g doesn't help, but after i restart hostapd it works back again, so i guess that the problem is with it. Tried to do some debugging, but failed -- hostapd doesn't provide any info when the problem occurs, it doesn't even report about connection attempts.
To avoid it i just disable Wi-Fi when the tablet isn't used. Besides it saves battery a lot .
UPD: Just remembered that i had the same problem with parents' ZTE W300 which the same Wi-Fi chip, and the OP's Netgear WNDR3800 has some Atheros wireless chips too. Looks like KFHD has such problems with Atheros.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
buggerm,
You nailed it, the Atheros chipset has the issue, although there are some Open Source packages that are
able to solve the issue through software with different methods of "lock" and the "timing". You are also
correct that disabling the WiFi is a solution, this is why we recommended Juice Defender Ultimate. This
application automatically disabled WiFi when the tablet goes into Sleep Mode. Thank you for the feedback.
Hi folks !
Recently I started to experience some troubles using my WiFis connections. The problem is simple, the connection drops, the WiFi network disappears from all the devices, and a few seconds later it comes back.
At first I thought it was a problem with the router of my work. But then I started to experience the same things at home. Then I decided to test the WiFi without connecting my Razr i to it and it worked like a charm. Now, as soon as I connect my Razr i to a WiFi, it crashes a few seconds/minutes later and keep doing it until I disconnect my phone from the WiFi.
Did someone experience the same thing ? Have you any idea for solving the problem ?
Thanks anyway.
PS : I only use 5Ghz WiFis. I'll try with 2.4 soon but the 5Ghz compatibility was one of the reasons why I bought this phone...
We have also issues with our WLAN at home, which is sometimes (but not always) very unstable in connection with a Samsung 5 Laptop (regular reboots shortly after activating the laptop Wifi).
I did not experience this problem yet with my Razr i, but I will keep it in mind over the next days (we have a complex setup with several computers, phones and Android entities based around a Fritzbox 7390, so error identification and validation takes very long and is not finished yet).
BTW - if you look for help here, please specify your WLAN router in detail as well as your provider and general IT-setup.
Tevac said:
We have also issues with our WLAN at home, which is sometimes (but not always) very unstable in connection with a Samsung 5 Laptop (regular reboots shortly after activating the laptop Wifi).
I did not experience this problem yet with my Razr i, but I will keep it in mind over the next days (we have a complex setup with several computers, phones and Android entities based around a Fritzbox 7390, so error identification and validation takes very long and is not finished yet).
BTW - if you look for help here, please specify your WLAN router in detail as well as your provider and general IT-setup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well ! Thanks for the reply.
My router that provides the two WiFis is a Cisco Linksys WRT61N.
My setup is kinda complex but works well. Got another router provided by my ISP, which is the DHCP server. This router is connected to a port of the WRT61N switch. Not to the internet port. Every connection that enters in the ISP router goes to the Linksys, and then is NATed by it. I don't think those informations are very relevant but anyway here they are. That's a complex setup but it works well (needed to do that because I have cable connection, and the cable modem/router have very limited configuration).
The devices that use my two WiFi are :
2.4Ghz : My Razr i right now.
5Ghz : Two iPads, and the HTC 8X of my girlfriend.
I made some other tests, one the Razr i there is an option for switching on or off a kind of network frequency. So instead of both enabled, I enabled only the 2.4Ghz WiFi frequency and connected my phone to my 2.4Ghz WiFi. No problems detected. Stable connection. Right now I'm at work, and everything works well in 2.4Ghz. So there is clearly a problem with the 5Ghz frequency on my Razr i.
Anyway, during those tests, I discovered something very interesting. My battery life had a huge improvement with the desactivation of the 5Ghz WiFi frequency.
Thanks for the details - especially on the 2.4/5 GHz topic.
I am also at work right now, but will check it at home and keep you posted.
WPA2
I had the same problem, I think it was triggered everytime the phone went to "sleep". It was changing the security encryption that fixed it for me. I can't remember what i had on the router as default, and I'm not at home right now to check what I'm running, but I believe it's WPA2. After the change, I had no trouble whatsoever. Hope this helps, good luck!
EDIT: nevermind what i said, i just logged into my router and remembered it wasnt the encryption type settings, but rather the wifi standard used, it used to be 802.11 b+n+g, and now i got it sitting at 802.11 b+g, which equals to 2.4 GHz. Meaning the razr has apparently a problem with the 5 GHz spectrum..
I too have a RAZRi which is connected by wi-fi at home to a Fritz!Box 7390. I noticed that when the RAZRi went into sleep mode with wi-fi connected (keep wi-fi on setting) it would have lost any internet connection on waking, requiring a disconnection/reconnection to reset. More annoyingly there was also a loss of connection (IP address) at laptops also connected to the router by w-fi on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz connections, which needed a reboot of either the PC or the router to re-establish a connection. The router GUI would show them all as remaining connected.
By using the manual setting on the router to restrict 2.4GHz connections to b+g (not b+g+n), it looks so far as though both problems are avoided, and the RAZRi can be set to use either the available 2.4GHz or 5GHz (a+n) connection on the Fritz! successfully without problems. EDIT big problem is though that disabling "n" on 2.4GHz seems to cause wi-fi throughputs to crash by more than 50% on both frequencies (which for me negates the benefit of having VDSL) - they recover if I re-enable, but then the lockups start if the phone is connected. A hobsons choice.
Thanks guys.
In order to get my Chromecast working with the latest Merlin flash I had to Enable the following on the "LAN / IPTV" page of Merlin firmware:
"Enable efficient multicast forwarding (IGMP Snooping)"
(If you're not familiar with Merlin version of the firmware for this router - it is essentially like the Asus firmware with some goodies / upgrades tacked on and fixes applied.)
I DID NOT enable IGMP Snooping settings in the 2.4ghz "Wireless / Professional" tab if anyone was wondering about that setting. I have limited knowledge of what these settings actually do and was just troubleshooting via trial and error.
I did a REBOOT through the router interface after setting the enabled setting in LAN / IPTV mentioned above.
Just to let you guys know as I didn't see anyone completely address it here and I was really struggling with getting my Chromecast set up on a new flash until I found this particular setting change.
I am running a pair of RT-AC66U's. (I keep one off-line that I play around with flashing Merlin and/or DD-WRT firmware and put on-line for testing purposes if something goes wrong with a flash or setting).
My version of Merlin is the latest Beta I could download at:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/bkfq2a6aebq68//Asuswrt-Merlin#lt9d2blv8a9uh
I am using "Firmware:3.0.0.4.374.36_beta1 (Merlin build)" according to my configuration page. This is the latest Beta dated 12-23-2013.
I'd be interested in finding out if anyone is using anything different with success on Chromecast with this router configuration or if this is the only configuration that works. Haven't done any network testings of any substance yet but everything seems to be running smoothly.
Pings to my internal LAN server seem to be tight anywhere from about 1-5msec.
I run rt-n66u's and haven't had any issues but I am also not running the latest merlin.
Thanks for the post so after I upgrade if I am having issues I know what to try first.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I'm running the latest Merlin and have no issues with my cc. I haven't tweaked many if any of the router settings.
ChromeCast and Merlin firmware
Warjcowski said:
I'm running the latest Merlin and have no issues with my cc. I haven't tweaked many if any of the router settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My setup was working for a while - but after about a week or so, the setup above seemed to totally dog out my Internet connection and it was definitely something in the router as I was getting 30+ mbps download and 10-20 mbps upload which is consistent with what my ISP says they are providing to me. (Tested by hooking up my Ubuntu laptop directly to the cable modem.)
I literally couldn't run Chromecast with Netflix. Not sure why the router got so bogged down after a few weeks. So I hooked up the standard Asus firmware - this worked fine for providing Internet access at fully subscribed speeds - but now the Chromecast won't work with the most recent firmware that Asus has for the RT-AC66U. Tried IGMP snooping and it doesn't seem to matter.
I see there is a third Beta revision of the Merlin firmware - presently. I'm going to try that version on my backup version of this router and see if that presents any problem or not with the Chromecast.
Wish there was a good troubleshooting guide for CC and this router. So many settings and very little information as to what works and what doesn't when using CC with the RT-AC66U router.
Haven't had my chromecast working for months with this router now. Kind of given up. Actually not sure how I even got it set up the first time.
Must have been sheer blind luck.
A lot easier just to hook up the laptop with display port or HDMI connection and stream to the TV.
Somewhat related but I have the N66U with Tomato FW and cc not connecting for some reason. Was fine on Merlin FW
I have a RT-N66U running Merlin 374.41 build. My Chromecast was working fine until a recent Chromecast update to the 16664 firmware. Unfortunately, I did upgrade the router sometime in the same timeframe, so I don't know which is the ultimate problem. Also, I checked my "efficient multicast forwarding" setting mentioned in the OP, and it was not enabled. I will try that and see if that changes anything.
To be clear, the Chromecast seems to connect to the wireless network, but it looks like the protocol traffic is getting lost since none of the other Chromecast enabled devices on the network can see the Chromecast. To fix it, I've been having to do a factory reset on the Chromecast and go through the setup procedure every time I want to use the Chromecast.
IGMP Snooping allows/tells the router to analyze the IGMP group information of packets and handle them based on that.
This allows for more-intelligent multicast packet forwarding to specific ports rather than flooding all ports.
It's very much akin to how a network switch remembers which addresses are connected to each port and sends packets destined for that address only to that port whereas a network hub will send every incoming packet to all ports, quickly flooding available bandwidth.
Quick example case - say you have two pairs of devices communicating, A->B and C->D, all on 100 Mbps (Fast Ethernet) connection.
On a switch (assuming full switching fabric), A's traffic to B will only go to the port B is on. The same is true for C's traffic to D.
Thus, A->B traffic will have full 100 Mbps bandwidth and C->D traffic will have full 100 Mbps bandwidth (minus overhead, of course).
On a hub, A's traffic to B will still "clog the pipe" on all ports, the same with C's traffic to D.
Thus, instead of A->B having a full 100 Mbps and C->D having a full 100 Mbps, the combined traffic shares 100 Mbps.
If things are equally balanced, A->B gets 50 Mbps and C->D gets 50 Mbps, but in reality this is rarely the case.
You can also think of this like having a dynamically-created VLAN memberships for multicast traffic.
However, the potential downsides are decreased throughput and increased latency for other traffic since some processing time is required to snoop the packets. Also, if the multicast client does not properly register, or router/switch has a bug, the client might get entirely ignored and "miss" the multicast packets entirely. That's why one of the troubleshooting steps is to toggle IGMP Snooping (it's usually disabled by default, but sometimes not) to see if there is an inadvertent shunning going on.
Ok, it looks like I needed to turn TKIP back on for the 2.4GHz network. Once I switched to AES+TKIP, the Chomecast shows up again on my mobile devices.
troycarpenter said:
Ok, it looks like I needed to turn TKIP back on for the 2.4GHz network. Once I switched to AES+TKIP, the Chomecast shows up again on my mobile devices.
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Interesting situation. I run AES-only but I've seen router "quirks" like this in the past.
On some old routers I had "creeping" configuration issues where after repeated configuration changes the router would eventually lose its mind and I had to reset the configuration and apply settings by hand again. Sometimes in the "lost its mind" configuration it would do very strange things.
Now would be a good time to back up your router configuration, just in case you have an issue like I had in the past.
I have a chromecast running with rt-ac66u router with dd-wrt. if I forget which atm but the chromecast had issue with either tkip or aes. I changed it to the other and it now works flawlessly.