hi!
I'm letting a cartuner build a 1-iso-drawer where I'll attach the original samsung car holder. attached are some drafts
the slot is 2 units height, so I'm planning to put a bluetooth capable cd-radio into the top slot, hooked up to the steering wheel, and that special drawer (red on the pictures) in the bottom one. so the tablet is basically right infront of the radio, rendering it unusable, but I've got the steering wheel for that. controls should be forwarded via remote control profile of bluetooth. A2DP should have sufficient soundquality, if not, maybe AUX and bluetooth control profile can be combined. dunno.
good idea?
"verstellbar" means "adjustable", sry it's german.
okay, back to the actual question:
the 'tuner' wants to have the holder now to build the cover, or it'll look ****ty.
but I do want to wait for GT2, dualcore and everything.
will the form-factor be the same? will the old hold work for GT2?
thanks!
What sort of question is this? The darn thing hasn't even been announced! For all we know it could be 2 cm thick or they upgraded to 7.5inches or something. How about you wait till we actually see a picture of it.
From the Tab.
www.twitter.com/ayman07
rumor has it the tab2 will be 10inch, if it is, then no its not going to fit.
Related
Well the bundled stock headphones include a right angle connector.
But I want to use my iPhone headphones (aftermarket, not the bundled ones)
There's plenty of right angle connectors that are 3 conductor/2 band but you lose the mic/play button with that.
Has anyone found a right angle adaptor with 4 condutor/3 bands?
Without a right angle adapter I fear too much movement will damage the port or the connector on the headphones (and it doesnt really feel right in the pocket)
Found this one, It may be cheaper to build your own.
I also found some that include are TRRS at the phone (male) end, TRS at the female end and include a mic like this one. With this adapter you can use any headphones and still make calls.
The first like seems to be what I need, it's a bit pricier then what I wanted but it's the right description of what I want. If there was one for approx $10 inc shipping it'd be perfect.
My headphones are the apple in ear headphones so they already include a mic (and more importantly a button to control audio)
marvin02 said:
Found this one, It may be cheaper to build your own.
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That's perfect, but the pricing is loonacy !
It came to nearly $20 after (even the cheapest) shipping. As the headphone jack was the last piece from keeping me from completely retiring my old iphone (i only used it for music) I figured it while it was expensive it was redicilously expensive.
Once it arrives i'll do a mini review of it, should be here by the middle of the week.
You could probably get the right angle plug and make one, but then you have to actually take the time to make the darn thing. you would also need the straight plug and wire and solder and the skill, Nah - I would probably order one just like you did.
Mini-review
So I recieved my connector today.
It doesnt match the picture exactly on the earlier link, but that's a good thing.
The headphone port body seems to be made of electrical shrinkwrap. This good as it means there's nothing on it that can possibly scratch your phone. The issue is that the overall look makes it look like someone hand assembeled it and is not factory made.
It does exactly what it's supposed to do, passes all signals without any perceptable loss in quality.
Pros:
TRRS on both ends (passes all 4 wires)
No metal on body so cant scratch anything
No perceptable change in audio quality
Cons:
Electrical shrinkwrap doesnt scream quality
Price, very expensive for what it is and the build quality
Other:
Doesnt match picture
Cable is 6 inches
Cable is very thick! compare the headphone cable and the extension's cable.
Final Thoughts:
If it were around $8-15 with shipping it'd be a pretty good buy even for it's quality. At $20 it's a bit much for something so small even if it had really good build quality/materials.
But as I mentioned earlier this is the last piece I needed to make my streak fully replace my old iphone. Being able to carry 1 less device makes the high cost not so high.
Issues left to tackle related to streak:
I'm currently using doubletwist to sync with my itunes library and as my music player, currently you can only do single press on the headphone button to play/stop music. It cant do double press to skip forward a track or triple press to go back a track.
Edit: It turns out doubletwist does support double press to skip a track, but not triple press to return to a track. It's a bit finicky though, as it seems to be a hack on detecting that you pressed play/stop quickly and not as a single smooth command.
Also unfortunately you cant use the vol up/vol down button on the headphones (but this isnt the fault of the streak, it's intentional vendor lock-in)
As I'm currently using the apple in-ear headphones I dont expect to change them any time soon, not that other non iphone headphones support volume buttons on the mic block anyway.
The volume buttons on the streak are small and with the right angle connector connected and the port so close to the vol buttons it might be a bit difficult to change the volume without removing it from your pocket. As I have no case for my streak but did for my iphone I dont have the case to guide me to the buttons as easily (You can feel the vol buttons even though the outside of jeans with a case) But I have to walk around a bit and try this part first. The vol buttons work fine for me, I have the phone upright in pocket with screen facing outwards. Finding the buttons isnt an issue at all.
The fact the streak has a metal body means I dont need a case to protect the back from scratches (the front is a different story).
Great review, thanks for taking the time to follow up.
Edited review, turns out using the vol buttons is fine even with the connector.
Doubletwist also includes double tap for skip track so it's pretty much everything I need
I have been working on using my Nook as an In-Car PC. The setup as taken some time to perfect, but I think I've finally got it. I am running CM7 nightly 117. Internet is being supplied to it by an AT&T Mifi and the audio is being streamed over bluetooth through a modded Plantronics Voyager 855 ( headset has A2DP). I modded the headset by removing the earpiece and replacing it with a 3.5mm headphone jack.
I found a tutorial on Lifehacker.com about modding the headset.
My mount in the car was created using a piece of 1" aluminum flatstock, some black self adhesive felt and some velcro. The dash kit in my car has a pocket under the stereo that was the perfect height for the bracket that supprt the nook. All I did was cut the flat stock to 2 8" pieces and bend the into hooks at the end. I covered the Hooked ends with felt to protect the Nook from getting scratched and then velcroed them to the top of the pocket. A piece of velcro on the back of the nook and on the dash above the stereo finished the install. I posted the video on youtube under the username jboyz1007 ( sorry haven't posted enough to be able to post a hyperlink.)
Here is a pic of the modded bluetooth
Nice attempt! Here's the embedded video for ya.
Thank you for posting the video. I appreciate it.
I would be interested in some pictures of the mounting you did. Vehicle make/model, etc.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
I am at work right now but when I get home for lunch I will post a pick of the mount. The car is a 2004 Chevy Cavalier 5 speed. The mount puts it at a great angle for viewing and I can reach it with my hand on the shifter.
Here's the pics that were requested.
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
kalel2000 said:
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
View attachment 1265233
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Very nice man. Might have to check this out
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
kalel2000 said:
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
View attachment 1265233
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Nice, I like the custom molded dash panel, too.
Is CarHome Ultra your default launcher? How do you handle volume control? Power control for the Nook (in the event of a hang, for example)?
Tiezane said:
Nice, I like the custom molded dash panel, too.
Is CarHome Ultra your default launcher? How do you handle volume control? Power control for the Nook (in the event of a hang, for example)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the compliments.
To answer your questions. The dash panel isn't custom molded. I just covered it in carbon fiber vinyl because I have a few too many holes in it and don't have the money for a new panel right now.
ADW EX is my default launcher. Carhome Ultra is an app, but in the settings of the app you can set it to respond to the home key as if it were a launcher.
Volume is controlled by an app called oddly enough "volume control" by Rubberbigpepper. It has a slider on the side of the screen. I put it to the right side on the center and set it to auto hide so all I do is touch that spot and slide my finger up and down.
As far as power, that is a funny one. My nook doesn't run on battery. A circuit fried inside and since then it won't run on battery power. It is way outside warranty and works fine when plugged in so this just seamed like a logical use for it. If I have to hard reboot it, which is rare, I simple pull the power. As far as sitting the screen down, for that I use Button Savior.
Hope this answers all you questions.
Latest tweak.
Didn't like the way carhome ultra was chopping off the words on the icons and the time. After reading in a couple of forums, I found out that it doesn't support non standard dpi like 160dpi. Which is the default of the nook color. I used the nook odds and ends app to change it from 160 to 180 and here is how it looks now.
As you can see it is much better and all my other apps still work. As a matter of fact pandora even looks better.
What about access to the SD Card? Are you still data tethering through the Mifi?
Tiezane said:
What about access to the SD Card? Are you still data tethering through the Mifi?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have access to the sd card, but if I do need to transfer files,I use Dropbox and file manager. As for your other question, yes I am still using the mifi.
Also the mifi has an sd slot, so if I need to access a big file like a movie, I can put it on there and then use a file manager app to transfer the file that way.
Was wanting to try something like this in a 2002 Honda civic, thanks for the tips!
Sent from my ADR6400L using xda app-developers app
Last update.
Just got a OBDii Bluetooth reader off Amazon. Running Torque lite. Works great.
kalel2000 said:
Last update.
Just got a OBDii Bluetooth reader off Amazon. Running Torque lite. Works great.
View attachment 1294656
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No problems with range?
No problems with range. The obd II device is only about a foot and a half away from the nook. The GPS receiver is about 2 feet away and it works fine too.
Thanks for your post, I wish I would have seen it earlier.
Just started a project like this myself recently using a Nook Color, but I'm wishing I would have spent the extra money and got a tablet that works a bit better. Seems too unstable, but it could be my dislike of CM7 and the need to use CM10.
Anyway, I use A2DP as well (which isn't working for me on the recent Beta 4 of CM10 all of the sudden) with a Blackberry Bluetooth Remote. I really hate Android's handling of Bluetooth, as I have to use AutomateIt to turn off Bluetooth when the power shuts off, and turn it back on in order to connect every time. The wireless part is nice though. I also use AutomateIt to keep the screen on when I turn on the car (usb power connected), open Poweramp when Bluetooth is connected, and turn the screen off when the car goes off.
Also use Poweramp as my music player, and was hoping to get music videos on there too, but it's another limitation of the old NC that it can't seem to play much. I don't have mine built in to my dash, but I did pick up an iKross car mount and I'm using it without the arms to hold my NC. Unfortunately, another problem I'm having, is the suction on the back of the tablet is causing ghost touches all over the screen instead of working properly like when I just hold it. I bought a cheap case thinking that would help, but it hasn't helped at all.
I like your setup though, and I'm glad someone is getting it right, I'm hoping I can get mine working in the next several weeks before I decide to just get rid of the NC and pick something up for Christmas that will work better for me.
Hey guy, im about to start my car audio install and i figured being such a avid android person haha i might as well use a nexus 7 as a headunit. I consider myself to be a bit of an audiophile when it comes to sound quality. Most people that go the nexus route just want it in there and aren't too concerned with sq it seems like. I'll be running a custom rom obviously, with a kernal for otg data and charging so i am able to charge the tablet and also have a flash drive plugged in to store various files.
My main questions are:
1. Whats my best option as far as wiring goes for SQ (thinking buetooth reciever in trunk that will have rca outs to an amp)
2. Kinda want to be able to take it out easily so best options or ideas for that
3. Is there a way to turn on the device without touching the power button? Not just wake it, actually boot the nexus
SQ doest NOT equal bluetooth a2dp to the trunk. Just wanted to mention that. Direct wire... or usb audio dac.
NFC tags would help, It wont boot the N7 up, but it will launch a media player and a change some settings at the same time.
1. Whats my best option as far as wiring goes for SQ (thinking buetooth reciever in trunk that will have rca outs to an amp)
Already posted, but bluetooth would be about as poor as you could go. I have my Nexus outputting to a Sabre USB-DAC, that feeds into a JBL MS8 and then onto the amplifiers.
2. Kinda want to be able to take it out easily so best options or ideas for that
This depends a lot on what car you are putting it in, and how much fabrication you want to do. I want to be able to take mine out easily, but am kind of lucky in that the dash panel I have it behind pulls out fairly easily allowing me to remove the Nexus.
3. Is there a way to turn on the device without touching the power button? Not just wake it, actually boot the nexus
I don't know that there is one, but to be honest I did not look into it that much. I use Tasker to put my Nexus to sleep, switch on Airplane mode etc. and to do the reverse whe it gets power.
For mine I am using Timur's ROM, it works really well for me, and I recommend you look into it.
So I've replaced my stock Navigation system in my '09 Mazda 6 with a 2nd gen Nexus 7.
I bought a used one off ebay because it didn't matter to me if the case/cover was banged up or not as I was planning on building it into the dash. The Nexus fits pretty well in the 2-din opening of the aftermarket panel I got [American International brand kit# MAZK860]. I used a Minisuit-X TPU case to help hold the tablet in place. The case creates a raised frame around the screen and makes it easier to locate the screen from the back of the 2-din panel. Notches needed to be cut in the sub-frame piece of the din kit for the USB connector and headphone jack, but other than that very little modifications were needed. I used a piece of PVC perforated sheet to hold the tablet into the din plate. The perforations in the sheet made it easy to cut out notches and holes with side cutters and achieve the shape I wanted without having to make a mess using a dremel.
For audio, I had purchased a Syba SD-CM-UAUD DAC but had trouble getting it to work right so I am now just using a 3.5mm 4-pin splitter to 3.5mm headphone/mic jacks. I have a JK MIC-J 044 lapel clip microphone stashed behind a small vent in the upper console panel and wired a headphone jack into the harness [Metra 70-7903]. I know some people think the DAC is far superior but I found the headphone jack audio output good enough for me and running it through the stock Bose amplifier in my car sounds excellent.
I'm also using a Joycon EXR to capture steering wheel controls and an EasyCap Dc60 to capture video from my KS1 dual channel dash camera. The camera is set to show the rear view for the video out so I can use it as a back-up camera on the tablet.
My first time installing the tablet worked ok. I had a few problems including the steering controls not working (except Volume down) and the battery wouldn't stay charged enough, forcing me to remove the tablet and charge it every other week. The Easycam also wouldn't work and flash drives wouldn't load right. The Joycon, Easycap, and flash drive issues were due to the $2 4-port hub I got free with something. I tried an Amazon Essentials hub too and it had an intermittent short. A 4-port Insignia hub from Bestbuy did the trick and everything is working now.
I did rebuild the harness last weekend because I wanted to get the Li-Ion battery out of the hot dash. Even though this setup was working ok, when it's 90-plug degrees outside, the tablet will shut itself off and boot-loop until it cools down. I decided to replace the battery with a 12V to 4.2V DC Step-Down regulator. I got an extra battery from ebay and remove the tiny controller board. I had read where other people just replaced the battery with a power supply and were getting odd messages from the tablet about how it was at 0 volts and wouldn't sleep or update properly. So, I used the battery control board and it reports the battery level to the tablet (usually around 90~95%).
The only issue I am having with the power is that when I start the engine, either the power is dropping too much or the car kills power to the radio harness and then I have to wait for the tablet to restart.
To fix this, I plan on using a capacitor to try and keep the tablet powered while the car is starting.
I do need some help. Though I have removed the Li-Ion battery, the overheated tablet will still shut down and boot-loop until it cools down. Is there a way to program it to ignore the temp. sensor? If not, does anyone know where this particular sensor is so I can replace it with a fixed resistor and make it think it's always room temp?
Questions, comments, and ideas welcome!
~Mike
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
amazing. navigation works well ?
ccb101 said:
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
Click to expand...
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I'm using Timur's USB Rom for 4.4.4.
eldar4uk said:
amazing. navigation works well ?
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I haven't been on any trips yet, but I did test it on the ride home from work and it works well; picks up the GPS signal well. I just used Google Maps navigation for it and I input the directions using "OK Google".
~Mike
Hey all,
So I searched the forum and found quite a few headphone port issues discussed, but no mention of my exact problem. And yes, I looked inside my port and scraped around with a toothpick... there is nothing immediately obvious obstructing the port- hence the need for my post
My headphone port seems to be short on depth. I have a pair of headphones with an inline mic. There are perfectly fine for listening to music (they even snap into place as they should). But the mic doesn't work. I don't use that often so i forgot about it.
Well the other day I bought a selfie stick (I know... I know... don't kick me! My fiance and I travel a lot and sometimes it is impossible to find someone to take a photo for you in front of a landmark). I bought a wired one to avoid the battery drain of BT (which I don't use much except in the car). Well, the shutter button on the stick doesn't work with my N6. I have 5 camera apps installed and all have the volume buttons mapped to the shutter...I tried it with my fiance's LG G4 and my old GS2, it works on both of them.
So while trying to trouble shoot this issue, I plugged my headphones into her phone and made a call... low and held, the mic worked. Next I searched the forums and Google and found the issues of clogged ports. Mine isn't. And I used a bright halogen light to peer inside. Nothing but port. So I measured it.
Here is the interesting part, my first measurements just involved watching how far the jack entered the port. I tried my phone, my S2 and the LGG4... the S2 and the G4 both ingested the entire jack. My N6, about 1mm was left out. So I measured by inserting a tooth pick and measuring how far it went in, sure enough, my N6 is about 1mm shallower then the others.
I did find one post here on XDA where people suggested that you had to press very hard to fully insert a jack. I tried, I nearly broke the headphones in the attempt... and no change.
Has anyone else had this exact issue? Were you able to solve it?
Has anyone attempted to replace the port?
Just a bump...
Anyone? TIA
Those mics don't tend to work in most cases if they work on an iphone vice versa, there are converters on dx.com as example. Sony headphones are known to work fine on android phones, I got a sony mdr-1 with an inline mic and controls that works fine on my n6.
If you want I can send pictures of the headphone jack connector when the back panel is removed, my back panel is currently loose after replacing the battery and I'm still waiting for the replacement ^^
seahorsepip said:
Those mics don't tend to work in most cases if they work on an iphone vice versa, there are converters on dx.com as example. Sony headphones are known to work fine on android phones, I got a sony mdr-1 with an inline mic and controls that works fine on my n6.
If you want I can send pictures of the headphone jack connector when the back panel is removed, my back panel is currently loose after replacing the battery and I'm still waiting for the replacement ^^
Click to expand...
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Sure, the photo would be great.
The headphones I have work on two other Android devices, as well as the selfie stick. So it doesn't appear to be a comparability issue with Android.
Thanks!
So,
When I had a Moto X (V2) I asked moto about the volume controls and was told that they did not implement them, as it was not an Android standard feature. My guess it that it is the same with the Nexus 6 (I now use bt headphones, so haven't tried). My guess is that the microphone doesn't work on your headphones (try another set) and that the volume control over the headphone jack is not implemented.
Note10.1Dude said:
So,
When I had a Moto X (V2) I asked moto about the volume controls and was told that they did not implement them, as it was not an Android standard feature. My guess it that it is the same with the Nexus 6 (I now use bt headphones, so haven't tried). My guess is that the microphone doesn't work on your headphones (try another set) and that the volume control over the headphone jack is not implemented.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Note Dude.
Thanks for responding. It's an interesting theory, but I have an inline volume control on this headset that does indeed adjust the volume. So, it's really just the mic.
Thanks, though!