Database Develop

[Q] Can Chromecast turn off the TV automatically?

I haven't seen any mention of this. It turns on the TV fine, but won't turn it of. That's only partially useful, as I still have to keep the TV remote around.

Since it uses CEC to control the TV, it could turn the TV off, but it doesn't. Hopefully this feature is added in a future update.

Yeah I agree. I only now have a TV remote for only one purpose, to shut it off...
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

I totally Agree!
I just got my ChromeCast today and I was extremely happy that my TV is new enough to have the ChromeCast turn my TV on and change video modes. However, when streaming is done, I'd like it to shift back to previous video mode (your cable box)
If we all submit feedback, it'll at least help put the thought in Google's head at least.

[Q] Setup issue. Black home screen

I've just bought a Chromecast device and I'm trying to
setup it. The problem is that when I plug it to the tv, a message appears
saying "Starting chromecast" and then the Chrome logo. After that, black
screen. Nothing appears. The setup program in my pc can find the device but
I can't see anything on the TV.
My TV model is LG 32LE5500
I tried rebooting the TV by unplugging everything and nothing changed.
Also I tried the Chromecast devide in another TV and it worked there, but it's not my TV and I need it to work in the LG one.
I've tried all hdmi ports and it's the same in all of them. The chrome logo and then black.
The last thing I did is to configure the device from the other TV and then plug it on the TV that doesn't work. I realized that the audio does work, I launched the YouTube app from my cellphone and I could hear the video, but again, black screen.
Could it be that my TV has a resolution of 1900x1080 and not 1920x1080?
Please I will appreaciate any kind of help, I really wanted to use the device and it's useless for me right now

According to LG, that's a normal 1080p screen.
http://www.lg.com/levant_en/tvs/lg-32LE5500-led/technical-specifications
More likely there's a router setup issue. This may help as a starting point -
https://support.google.com/chromecast/table/3477832?hl=en

santi.marro said:
I've just bought a Chromecast device and I'm trying to
setup it. The problem is that when I plug it to the tv, a message appears
saying "Starting chromecast" and then the Chrome logo. After that, black
screen. Nothing appears. The setup program in my pc can find the device but
I can't see anything on the TV.
...
Could it be that my TV has a resolution of 1900x1080 and not 1920x1080?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your TV is 1080p, so it's 1920 horizontal.
IIRC the boot logo sends 480p, then Chromecast negotiates with the TV as to what resolutions are supported.
Your TV might not be playing nice in the negotiation process.
So, try booting Chromecast without it connected to the TV.
Disconnect power from Chromecast
Disconnect Chromecast from TV
Reapply power to Chromecast
Wait for it to boot (wait until LED goes solid steady white)
Turn on TV if it is not already on
Set TV to Chromecast input
Plug Chromecast into TV input

bhiga said:
Your TV is 1080p, so it's 1920 horizontal.
IIRC the boot logo sends 480p, then Chromecast negotiates with the TV as to what resolutions are supported.
Your TV might not be playing nice in the negotiation process.
So, try booting Chromecast without it connected to the TV.
Disconnect power from Chromecast
Disconnect Chromecast from TV
Reapply power to Chromecast
Wait for it to boot (wait until LED goes solid steady white)
Turn on TV if it is not already on
Set TV to Chromecast input
Plug Chromecast into TV input
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried it and it's the same, a black screen. It works with a monitor that I have and another TV, but, sadly, I need it to work in the LG TV
EarlyMon said:
According to LG, that's a normal 1080p screen.
More likely there's a router setup issue. This may help as a starting point -
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The chromecast device works, I checked it and configured it in another TV, but I need it to work in the LG one.

santi.marro said:
I tried it and it's the same, a black screen. It works with a monitor that I have and another TV, but, sadly, I need it to work in the LG TV
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very strange. Almost sounds like an HDCP handshake problem.
Try the HDMI extender in case it's just not plugging in quite right.
Other than that, you can try disabling HDMI CEC (LG calls it SimpLink) and see if that makes a difference.
Do you know what firmware build it has? (Chromecast app will tell you)

bhiga said:
Very strange. Almost sounds like an HDCP handshake problem.
Try the HDMI extender in case it's just not plugging in quite right.
Other than that, you can try disabling HDMI CEC (LG calls it SimpLink) and see if that makes a difference.
Do you know what firmware build it has? (Chromecast app will tell you)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've just tried the device with the extender and SimpLink deactivated and it's the same again
Here I leave a screenshot of the Chromecast app attached

santi.marro said:
I've just tried the device with the extender and SimpLink deactivated and it's the same again
Here I leave a screenshot of the Chromecast app attached
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice names.
Well, you're on the latest firmware build (15250) so either Google broke something in the newest update, or your TV is finicky.
Since your TV is Smart, it might have a firmware update available.
Wait... The specs say "TruMotion 100Hz" - is your TV PAL? It might not support NTSC input...

bhiga said:
Nice names.
Well, you're on the latest firmware build (15250) so either Google broke something in the newest update, or your TV is finicky.
Since your TV is Smart, it might have a firmware update available.
Wait... The specs say "TruMotion 100Hz" - is your TV PAL? It might not support NTSC input...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDMI doesn't care about PAL vs NTSC frequencies by design, exactly why so many in the UK were able to adopt early last year.

EarlyMon said:
HDMI doesn't care about PAL vs NTSC frequencies by design, exactly why so many in the UK were able to adopt early last year.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree that it shouldn't matter in this day and age, they still exist separately in the EDID data because of the differing pixel clocks.
It's possible (though ill-advised) for a modern display to reject an input signal based on it being 50/100 Hz or 60/120 Hz.
I deal with a lot of AV stuff and have run into this issue from time to time.

Well, TIL then.

EarlyMon said:
Well, TIL then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm learning every day... sometimes the hard way.
Traditionally European TV sets have been more forgiving than their US counterparts, accepting NTSC "nudged" into PAL-60 or NTSC 4.43 in the analog realm.
While the transition to HD did unify the display resolutions and pixel aspect ratios (everything's square, yay!), the differences in refresh/sampling rates remained.
One day my friend, one day... everything will be 600 Hz or better so 24, 25, 30, 50 and 60 fps content will all be supported and play without judder or needing interpolation. :cyclops:
So back to the topic at hand, it's possible the OP's TV doesn't know what to do with a 30/60 Hz input from Chromecast, though that would be quite silly of LG to impose such a restriction. Still, silly happens more often than you think for all kinds of reasons (gray market sales due to varying exchange rates and import/export laws often is a concern, as we burden on regional support that got no revenue from the foreign sale).
TBH, I don't know for certain whether Chromecast is capable of 25/50 Hz output, it might be. But being that Google isn't selling it outside of US/Canada yet, I doubt they've tested it.
>> Anybody in Europe, can you confirm me whether Chromecast outputs 720/50p, 1080/50i or 1080/50p to your TV? <<

Sent from my Nexus 10 using xda app-developers app

Thank you for all your replies,
For what I know, my TV accept NTSC but I'm not 100% sure. I am from South America by the way, in theory electronics here are NTSC.
kDnZP said:
Sent from my Nexus 10 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That TV in the picture you posted is very similar to the one I have. Did you have any problem using the chromecast device?

The link I gave was from the Eastern Mediterranean, I was more curious about verifying your resolution at the time. There's a 60/120 Hz (NTSC) version of your set, same model number, popular in several South American countries.
I apologize for adding the confusion.

santi.marro said:
That TV in the picture you posted is very similar to the one I have. Did you have any problem using the chromecast device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not any problem with LG 26LE3300 (1366x768 native resolution).

santi.marro said:
Thank you for all your replies,
For what I know, my TV accept NTSC but I'm not 100% sure. I am from South America by the way, in theory electronics here are NTSC.
That TV in the picture you posted is very similar to the one I have. Did you have any problem using the chromecast device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, should work.
Worst-case, since you have other displays that Chromecast does display properly on, you could try this: (it worked on 13300, haven't had need or opportunity to try it on 14975 or 15250)
Locate working monitor and LG TV in close proximity
Connect Chromecast to working monitor and wall power
Once Chromecast is booted, unplug Chromecast from monitor only
Plug Chromecast into LG TV
Likely this will not survive a Chromecast reboot though...

I've got a Sanyo DP50740, and my Chromecast is now showing this same behavior. It used to work fine, but I think that the update to firmware 15250 broke something with hdcp in some TV's.
I filed a bug with Google, but the end result was that the google helpdesk can't tell what was updated in the latest build.
I suggest you file a similar bug with Google, so that they see that this is happening with multple TV models.
Until they fix this I'm stuck with a paperweight.

AustinMartin said:
Until they fix this I'm stuck with a paperweight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It won't sync up even if you hot-plug Chromecast HDMI after it's already booted?

bhiga said:
It won't sync up even if you hot-plug Chromecast HDMI after it's already booted?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, tried that. The only thing I haven't tried is to boot up plugged into another device then plug in. Don't have any portable monitors with hdmi input. It might be that they fixed this glitch in the latest firmware.
This is the annoyance of allowing google to update firmware at will. They can break your device, and there's then nothing you can do except wait for the next release. That's why I encourage the original poster to file a bug with them. That's their only window into what's happening.

AustinMartin said:
Nope, tried that. The only thing I haven't tried is to boot up plugged into another device then plug in.
...
They can break your device, and there's then nothing you can do except wait for the next release. That's why I encourage the original poster to file a bug with them. That's their only window into what's happening.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The no HDMI and different HDMI scenarios should be different, they have been in my case at least, but understand not having a practical means to try.
Agree. That's the danger of forced updates.
Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.

[Android 4.1+]Proxy/GateWay for Android Auto

Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
AAGateWay Documentation.
Beta released (04.01.2020)
What is it?
AAGateWay is a an app which should allow you to use an auxiliary (slave) device to connect your existing Android Auto compatible car to your phone (master) using a hotspot created on your phone.
How to use it?
SLAVE SETUP
1) Install the app using XDA Labs (Only on SLAVE) : https://www.b3itlabs.com/prod.php?id=3
2) Configure
FOR BOTH ROOTED AND NOT-ROOTED SLAVES
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Pair Master and Slave over BT (do this from the normal BT settings)
Open app
If slave is ROOTED and ONLY if you are using a TV STICK convert the app to system app. (if app not visible after conversion, reboot device)
Enable the start tethering option (If asked make sure you manually configure the hotspot, to have the name HUR and the password AndroidAutoConnect)
Select the masters phone BT MAC
Exit
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Create a Wifi hotspot from the master
Connect slave to it
Reopen AAGateWay and select the masters hotspot from the "Phone Wifi SSID" list
Slave is ROOTED - This will give a much bigger compatibility with cars, it should work with any car/unit (but depends a lot on the slave used, read below)
Slave is NOT ROOTED - This mode won't work on all cars and it has caveats.
MASTER SETUP
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Install WiFi Launcher for HUR (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borconi.emil.wifilauncherforhur)
Make sure WiFi Launcher is version 2.1 or higher!!!
Open WiFi Launcher
FOR Android 10, set permission location to ALWAYS!!!!!!
Select slaves BT from the BT list and exit
DO NOT ENABLE ANY OF THE OTHER OPTIONS!!!!
If you do not want to use WiFi Launcher you can use the following Tasker task to launch AA on any condition you want: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO-Z5P0oQpHEdrQjYqvSM48L1TI-K5g8/view?usp=sharing
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Open Android Auto, go to Settings, scroll down tap the version 10 times, then from the 3 dotted top right corner select start headunti server.
Exit Android Auto
Leave the Headunit Server running
When you get into the car turn on the hotspot on the master (or use Tasker, automate or anything else do that for you)
CONNECTING
Go to the car, plug in the slave to the car's USB and start the car
Slave is ROOTED
Nothing should happen, car should NOT detect the phone (SLAVE) at this stage. If the car does detect the slave being connected, it means your slave doesn't allow a proper USB toggle, in which case you should try enabling non-root mode.
Master is Pie and above
If you selected to tether from the slave, at this point you should see the slave turning on the hotspot, otherwise you might see the slave trying to connect to a Wifi network.
Slave will notify master
Master will automatically start WiFi Launcher
Master will connect to slaves hotspot
Master will start AA on the phone and notifies slave
Slave will enable USB
If you are using a phone as slave you will get a prompt if you want to use AAGW as the default app for this action, make sure you select ALWAYS ans yes. (TV stick should work automatically)
Projection should start
Slave is NOT-ROOTED (or running in non-root mode)
You will get a prompt to use AAGateWay for this action, make sure you select always.
Car should display a splah-screen saying waiting for master. (on some car's screen you might see a scrambled image)
After splash-screen is displayed, the slave will start tethering, or will try to connect to the masters hotspot depending on the setting.
Once a network connection is established between the 2 devices, you will see the AA icon turning on on the master and Android Auto should be displayed on the car's screen. It is possible that the screen will stay /turn black, if that happens, you can try to press the home button on the infotainment system, then re-open Android Auto on it.
Troubleshoot and getting help
As the thread has so much information it will be really nice if we can try to stick to one format of troubleshooting, by using one of this 2 templates:
Master is running Pie or above and slave is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave actually turned on the hotspot on the slave: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the slaves BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up?: (Yes/No)
Did the master connected to the slaves hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the AA icon appeared on the master at all (in the notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Master is running Oreo or below and master is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did you select the masters hotspot name in AAGW?: (Yes/No)
Have you started the Headunit server on the master?: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the cars BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up (notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Did the master turned on the hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave connected to the masters hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Getting rid of all automation and manually starting it all (regardless of Android version on master and slave):
Uninstall AAGW on the master
Start the headunit server from within Android Auto on the master
Create a hotspot on the master
Open AAGW on the slave and make sure it's not set to tether
in AAGW make sure you select the masters hotspot
If AAGW is set to non-root mode make sure you select the masters BT (just press the button AAGW will do a BT scan of nearby devices and you can pick it from the list)
Go to the car and plug the slave in
Start the car
If slave is running in ROOT mode, slave will first try to connect to the masters Wifi and you will see a notification on the master that AA is running, only then the car should recognise a plugged in device.
If the slave is running in non-root mode, first you will see a splash screen on the car, then you will see slave connects to masters Wifi (if not already connected), then you will see AA starting on the master.
How do I collect a bug report / logcat
Open Settings > About phone.
Scroll down to the Build number.
Tap the Build number 7 times in quick succession until "You're now a developer" appears.
Return to the Settings menu and select Developer options.
At the top of the screen, make sure 'Developer options' is set to On (green).
Scroll down to Debugging and enable both USB debugging and Bug Report Shortcut on (green).
Tab on Logger buffer sizes: Default setting is 256K. Select 16M to help capture more information for debugging. Of note, it can affect the apps performance especially with lower spec phone, so change it back after you have finished submitting bug reports.
On slave make sure you enable debugging inside AAGW, on master open Android Auto go to developer settings and make sure force logging is enabled.
Reproduce the problem
Hold the Power button down until the menu appears.
Select Take bug report. and wait for the device to capture the bug report.
Tap the 'Bug report captured' notification when it appears.
Send the bug report by email to [email protected]
Know problems, workaround:
- Latency & lag. This will be really down to the devices you are using. I have tested it with a MK808B Plus, it work’s ok most of the time but occasionally you will get the odd lag. I’ve also tested it with a Nexus 7 tablet, and there was no lag at all, so device does matter, as well as probably ROM.
- I get random disconnection. There can be 2 causes for this, one the USB connection fails between the car and the auxiliary device, or the Wifi fails between the phone and the auxiliary device. In my tests I saw a few Wifi disconnections without any reason on the MK808, but non on the Nexus. Changing the tethering option from WPA2 to Open did help with this.
- App is closed without error or reason. The app runs in a background process, with a minimal interaction with the foreground, some devices/OS will kill background apps. I saw this happening on Nokia and I saw this happening on OnePlus as well. Try disabling battery optimisation for AAGateWay, that might help.
- I just cannot get it to work… Try using a phone, that will at least give you some visual guidance. Make sure that your device connects to the phone Wifi hotspot, make sure that AA Headunit server is running on the phone (try to force stop Goolge Play Services, stop and restart the headunit server)… All fails contact me
- Nothing happens on the master, using Wifi Launcher for HUR app. In this case, try to manually start the headunit server on the master, and manually turn on a hotspot, then reconfigure you're slave to connect to the masters hotspot (even if the master is running Pie or higher).
Device compatibility:
Master:
Any phone which normally works with Android Auto
Slave with ROOT:
- Tested and know to work: - MK809V, Nexus 7 (depending on rom), Sony X Compact (depending on rom)
-Tested and not working as expected: Pixel 2, MK808B
- While root is necessary, not all phones can toggle USB port on and off by software. And there can be other problems, for example on some devices when you turn off the USB the phone loses the ability to detect the power connection as well, which is use as trigger to start the whole process. It is almost impossible to predict if a phone will be a good slave candidate or not.
Other things
- Xiaomi phones (MIUI makes a mess), try not to use it for Slave
- Generally older phones (pre oreo) are more likely to work fine as a slave device.
Any suggested slave?
- Yes, use an MK809V TV stick, as the experience with it, is pretty slick and it should work out of the box. If you get a MK809IV try to get the one with Android 5.1.1 as the one with Android 7.1 has problems with the tethering.
FAQ.
Q: Can I use this with any car and phone combination?
A: Assuming your car is already Android Auto compatible, then YES.
Q: Can I also automate the start of the Headunit server?
A: Only with a rooted phone, using the following shell command: am startservice -W com.google.android.projection.gearhead/com.google.android.projection.gearhead.companion.DeveloperHeadUnitNetworkService
Q: Can I use Wifi-Direct to connect instead of WIfi?
A: No.
Q: Does the traffic come out from my monthly data allowance?
A: NO, traffic between auxiliary device and phone hotspot does NOT count as internet traffic, HOWEVER if you do have other apps on the auxiliary device which download updates, etc in the background that WILL be counted as internet traffic. So I suggest double check the apps on the aux device and disable all those which aren’t needed.
Q: Will the car/head unit provide enough power?
A: It should provide at least 500mA that’s the standard USB current, while I cannot guarantee that will be enough in all cases, it should do, assuming you do turn off all unneeded services on the TV stick.
Q. What about start up time?
A. It will depend a lot on the device you are using. A low-entry TV stick boot time is about 1 minute, which can be a bit too much for an initial car setup. As mentioned earlier, these devices usually have 2 USB ports, you can for example connect the power USB port to a continues power supply in the car, in which case the boot time will be non-existent since the device is always running. If you are using a phone, the phone battery will probably hold the charge just fine for a couple of days, if you disable all apps on it and you set up a profile to go into aeroplane mode when it’s not charging. Tasker or Automate are your friends for that. If you cannot connect the TV stick to a continues power source, you might consider using a small portable power pack which powers the tv stick (should hold power for a few days) and the power pack can be charged while the car is running.
Q. Can I decrease boot time for TV Sticks/Phones by removing all unrelated software.
A. Yes, actually quite a lot. Once you have your configuration ready and everything is working as expected, you can uninstall/disable all packages beside this ones:
package:android
package:com.android.apkinstaller
package:com.android.providers.settings
package:com.android.packageinstaller
package:com.notriddle.null_launcer (or any other launcher, but NULL launcher has no memory consumption, no app drawer no nothing, perfect for headless - see: https://github.com/notriddle/null-launcher )
package:com.android.inputmethod.latin
package:com.android.settings
package:uk.co.borconi.emil.aagateway
package:com.android.shell
package:com.android.systemui
Easy way to list / disable all apps will be using a computer and following commands
Code:
adb shell pm list packages
This will list all installed packages
Code:
adb shell pm disable xxxx
where you replace xxxx with the package name (Ex: com.android.shell )
Q. Will using Wifi 5Ghz give me better performance?
A. Well if both of your devices support it, SURE!
Q. Is the source code available?
A. Sort-of, please see: https://github.com/borconi/AAGateWay this is only for the sketch, however new version does contain code which lift restrictions on 3rd party apps in Android Auto. To prevent the abuse of this by some, further code won't be updated to GitHub, however if you want to build your own version, please do contact me for details.
Guarantee or Warranty
- Due to the fact that there are so many possibilities and combinations of cars, head units, slave and master devices, there is no way for me to test all of them, however if you did purchase the software and you are not able to get it to work for any reason, please email me on [email protected] and I'm more then happy to refund the purchase.
Teaser:

VERY interested in the progress on this, Emil. For one, this would allow me to charge my Samsung using the Quick Charge adapter in my cigarette lighter, rather than relying on the anemic power output of my truck's USB port. Or if I want to get fancy, I could install a wireless charger and use that.
Thanks for all of your hard work.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?

Another great idea.
Definitely interested..
thanks.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I thought of you instantly when I saw this thread on Reddit, but didn't imagine that you were the creator.
Congratulations and thanks again!

Jackos said:
Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly no, that will require altering the firmware on the car and each unit is different. It is possible that those unit might get an official update for Wifi support, but although I'm not 100% certain, I think it will only work with 5Ghz Wifi network, so if you're unit is 2.4Ghz only probably it won't get the update.
If I will ever have times (something which I never have ) I might look into adding this to some units out there, but that is so far down the line, that realistically speaking probably will never happen.

Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?

This is awesome news! looking forward to progress!

lukesan said:
Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly

Emil Borconi said:
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.

lukesan said:
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.

Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, sounds like a bit of an issue that you can't really test since we'll have no screen. Well maybe a sort of a config txt file. Most of us will have to clear the thing on a tv screen or monitor anyway because a lot of crap is installed on these devices. I guess it makes sense to have something that can show if the stick is getting data from the phone. There is always a way.

Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No offense to obd2aa, I use it daily, but I'd be interested in this even without it

Where is the APK to give it a try ?

Emil Borconi said:
Currently only a placeholder for those interested in the project while working on development.
Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
If you are interested in this project please simply subscribe to this thread and follow the updates.
Teaser:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested, I have a Tahoe with AA and an Android stick. Your project sounds great, can't wait!!

You should have it by the 17th of July, I'm just in the middle of rewriting another app, once I completed that I will focus on this one. I'm going away on a holiday on the 17th of July so I'm really pushing to have it out there by then.

Having the same XAV-AX100, and I was pissed off when I heard that in order to use wireless android auto it needs to be replaced.
Great idea, can`t wait to test it.

Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

jeromeo01 said:
Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.

Emil Borconi said:
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its exactly the same.
Mini PC stick, but using windows 10 as OS.
Just a little bit more expensive. But I already have one to try. [emoji6]
https://www.windowscentral.com/best-stick-pcs
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Smart View Not Working

Today i updated to OneUI 2.5 and the Smart View function from the notification panel doesn't find my TV anymore. It used to work before. My TV is a 2011 Series 6 one. The 32D6100 model connected via wire to internet. I tried the Smart Things app and it found it as a directly connected device but sharing things from the app is cumbersome compared to using the Smart View toggle. Can someone on OneUI 2.5 please see if it works for them?

Worked for me. Sometimes I need to restart either tv or phone or both of them to connect again. Other then that it works great. I use wireless dex if cast doesnt work.

ravijani said:
Worked for me. Sometimes I need to restart either tv or phone or both of them to connect again. Other then that it works great. I use wireless dex if cast doesnt work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Weird. I restarted tv and phone and nothing. Actually my phone does find something but every time it's a different random device. One time it was a LG TV, one time a Sony, then some random projector. And if i try to connect it disappears from list. I'm connected to wifi and there's only one TV that's also connected to the same internet in my home. TV doesn't support miracast as it's quite old though so i can't use wireless dex or screen mirroring on it. Smart view could only show some content from the default Samsung gallery, music and video apps. Will buy an Anycast M9 Plus dongle and hope everything works with it.

Android 12 update for Chromecast with Google TV

Tech site says that Chromecast with Google TV got Android 12 update. Has anyone received?
Android 12 arrives on the two-year-old Chromecast with Google TV
Adding new playback, privacy, and security settings.
www.theverge.com

Yes, i have installed yesterday.
The frame rate switch is working fine with Mavens Kodi.
But i have experienced a few bad things as well.
I wasn't able to figure out how to install unknown sources apk files anymore.
There is no option for that.
I have experienced some performance issues as well (e.g. if i jumped chapter in Kodi it wasn't capable to follow things, (delay in audio etc), but this can be just cache setting issue).
Streaming apps:
Netflix - no frame rate switch
HBO Max - no frame rate switch and some reason no Dolby Vision either (sending out as HDR).
I don't see that smooth the system as i expected to be.

Google assistant not executing commands on my device after update.

zenowaren said:
Google assistant not executing commands on my device after update.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't use that, so i am not sure if it is working for me.
Maybe you should do a hard reset or just reset the google assistant?
But i figured out how to install Unknown sources, just needed to grant Always allow storage permission for the file manager what i use (in this case x-plore) and i can see the APKs now

I just wanna share this info. If anyone using this device with a third party ethernet adapter and using vpn with wireguard app...
This firmware update will break your wireguard app usage. You would not be able to establish a connection. Activating one of peers in your wireguard app will disconnect the ethernet. Youd get a notification "VPN is connected" then youll received another notification after few seconds "Network connection lost". Your ethernet setting will disappear in the CCwGTV setting. Ethernet setting will return back once you deactivate the peer connection in WireGuard App.
Connection via Wifi with Wireguard App is not affected though with the firmware update. Its still works. You can establish wireguard connection with wireguard app.
Idk if this is a bug in the firmware update for those using ethernet adapters. I have not test the official google ethernet adapter so i can not fully say that too is affected, but im 100% sure third party ethernet adapter of CCwGTV are affected.
So if youre using ethernet adapter with CCwGTV and utilizing Wireguard app to establish VPN... you need to stay away from this update. Or else you gonna connect thru wifi to get the wireguard app working.

guys i have problem on this latest it can't my flash drive while i'm using my usb hub , any idea to revert back to android 10 ?

I experienced zero performance development. Same glitches, issues.
Some aps doesn't work. Simply can't open. Others take ages to start.
It was bad now worst.
Hdmi loses connection every minute . (I switched color format to Ycbcr 4.4.0, it seems fine now).
How to downgrade? or I will sell. Because this device is not better in terms of performance then my old 2017 LG TV software.

stupid update it doesn't read my flash drive while using my usb hub to expand it storage

ctorbaoglu said:
I experienced zero performance development. Same glitches, issues.
Some aps doesn't work. Simply can't open. Others take ages to start.
It was bad now worst.
Hdmi loses connection every minute . (I switched color format to Ycbcr 4.4.0, it seems fine now).
How to downgrade? or I will sell. Because this device is not better in terms of performance then my old 2017 LG TV software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the whole experience of the new update made the ccwGTV crawl. I notice lagginess after the update. Its kinda like what Apple do to their iphones.... Sure theyd support and keep rlsing ios update to their old iphones, but they will mess up the updat and add lagginess experience for you to ditch your old iphone to buy new iphones. Same thing is happening ccwgtv.. theyre fcking our experience with their update so we would buy their "new ccwgtv."

UNG7896 said:
stupid update it doesn't read my flash drive while using my usb hub to expand it storage
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
probably kernel of usb hub is not supported with the update. this update fckup every third party usb peripheral that exist. I have not checked mine if the usb storage is broken too, but i would not be surprise if its broken.

I have an Chromecast with Google TV 4k (model: GZRNL). It's still on Android 10 (see screenshots attached) and it's no update available. Tried resetting to factory defaults, still same issue.

asinboi said:
I just wanna share this info. If anyone using this device with a third party ethernet adapter and using vpn with wireguard app...
This firmware update will break your wireguard app usage. You would not be able to establish a connection. Activating one of peers in your wireguard app will disconnect the ethernet. Youd get a notification "VPN is connected" then youll received another notification after few seconds "Network connection lost". Your ethernet setting will disappear in the CCwGTV setting. Ethernet setting will return back once you deactivate the peer connection in WireGuard App.
Connection via Wifi with Wireguard App is not affected though with the firmware update. Its still works. You can establish wireguard connection with wireguard app.
Idk if this is a bug in the firmware update for those using ethernet adapters. I have not test the official google ethernet adapter so i can not fully say that too is affected, but im 100% sure third party ethernet adapter of CCwGTV are affected.
So if youre using ethernet adapter with CCwGTV and utilizing Wireguard app to establish VPN... you need to stay away from this update. Or else you gonna connect thru wifi to get the wireguard app workin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't suppose you've found a fix for this other than using WiFi? I use Windscribe and even with other protocols I have the same problem through wired connection on my hub. Vpn connects then network disconnects. Very frustrating!

google devs/guys could fix this problem if only anyone know where you can report this bug to official google forum for chromecast with google tv but idk where that is.
I tried posting here so anyone experiencing can see this and people can report it to google devs who are here in this forum, but i guess no devs has caught this yet it here or experiencing the problem...im pretty sure it would be fix if "someone" who know guys in google and brought this at their attention

Hi, or is it possible to downgrade ?
I can't install APK or map button for exemple.
This device loses a lot of its interest now, for me.

idk. never tinker with firmware of chromecast gtv before, but this is android device so if youve been rooting or downgrading with android before, i guess its the way as this with the device.
worst scenario that you can remedy this problem is buy another one ccwgtv the 4k version and dont upgrade to the latest firmware one. And disable the auto update. to prevent force upgrade from google...block the url of firmware update with pihole or similar dns blocking to keep google away from updating your device wo your consent.

zenowaren said:
Tech site says that Chromecast with Google TV got Android 12 update. Has anyone received?
Android 12 arrives on the two-year-old Chromecast with Google TV
Adding new playback, privacy, and security settings.
www.theverge.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received the update and I hate it... A lot of the functionality I was used to that was present before the update occurred such as accessing directory paths w/in apps has been neutered. Also, the sound effects like when you toggle w/in the OS or when you select OK to open an app are ruined and there's noticeable crackling/pop. Now I'm actively searching for a way to root the device and to revert the update back to Android 11 or Android 10.

Janaboy82 said:
Yes, i have installed yesterday.
The frame rate switch is working fine with Mavens Kodi.
But i have experienced a few bad things as well.
I wasn't able to figure out how to install unknown sources apk files anymore.
There is no option for that.
I have experienced some performance issues as well (e.g. if i jumped chapter in Kodi it wasn't capable to follow things, (delay in audio etc), but this can be just cache setting issue).
Streaming apps:
Netflix - no frame rate switch
HBO Max - no frame rate switch and some reason no Dolby Vision either (sending out as HDR).
I don't see that smooth the system as i expected to be.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ik you can get to the page to allow unknown sources but you need to download "send to my TV" on CC with GTV and on another android device or I assume could work if Ios has the app and install it on there also on same wifi network. Transfer an apk file to the CC with GTV click to install it from that app and it will bring a prompt up saying needing to allow from unknown sources. Click yes and it will bring you to the she setting for it like your use to seeing before this update. Worked that way for me then I could choose what to allow to install. I assume maybe if you Transfer a file manager (a certain one like this one thay brought the prompt up) you might be able to bring up the setting page on CC w/ GTV to allow Access to file directories best luck all.
This worked for me for what I needed to do so I don't need to get into the directories.

pjcman2001 said:
Ik you can get to the page to allow unknown sources but you need to download "send to my TV" on CC with GTV and on another android device or I assume could work if Ios has the app and install it on there also on same wifi network. Transfer an apk file to the CC with GTV click to install it from that app and it will bring a prompt up saying needing to allow from unknown sources. Click yes and it will bring you to the she setting for it like your use to seeing before this update. Worked that way for me then I could choose what to allow to install. I assume maybe if you Transfer a file manager (a certain one like this one thay brought the prompt up) you might be able to bring up the setting page on CC w/ GTV to allow Access to file directories best luck all.
This worked for me for what I needed to do so I don't need to get into the directories.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can choose to install from unknown sources when you activate developer mode, but you already knew that I presume lol

Can I root with the old way on the latest update or would that brick it?

I am unable to use USB C Hub with my Google Chromecast 4k. Only PD USB C port is working. 3.5mm audio jack output, card reader and USB storage is not working. Kindly suggest.
https://www.amazon.in/Voltem-Aluminium-Multiport-Transfer-Charging/dp/B09YK1BH5J?ref_=ast_sto_dp