Grab this in the marketplace here!
I purchased a D-series Samsung 2011 TV a week or so ago (UN55D8000 to be specific) and noticed that iOS and Android both had remote control apps available, so I figured that the Mango release would be a great opportunity to try out sockets on WP7. I used the SamyGo project as a base for the TV's communication format and the great UI posted here (he asked for a WinMo version earlier in the thread, so I figured the images were meant to be used) to create a WP7 version of the remote.
The app requires you to be on the same network as the TV (Wi-Fi or wired via USB) because it uses a UDP Multicast socket to find the TV, receives the response(s) via UDP Unicast, then initiates a direct TCP connection to whichever TV you choose. I was pretty excited to get to blaze a trail through Mango sockets land to develop this .
Here are the TV's that this should work with:
LED 6500 series or higher (model code starts with 'U')
LCD 650 series or higher (model code starts with 'L')
PDP 6500 series or higher (model code starts with 'P')
When in doubt, look for an option like "network remote" on the TV's menu. You may try toggling this off and back on if it doesn't work right away.
edit: Some notes:
Make sure the TV is on - the remote cannot turn on the TV because it has to talk to a server that the TV only runs when it's on.
If the TV is in its "Smart Hub" program, it may not work - I noticed in my testing that if the TV was in its internet tv/smart hub mode, it would not prompt me to authorize the new remote. So if you have troubles, try exiting any programs the TV is running and try again.
edit: Update 1 posted:
Added timeouts and retries to TV searching - the app will attempt to re-search for TV's every 2 seconds. After 10, it will give up and allow you to either enter demo mode or refresh and try again.
Added ability to exit demo mode - now if you press the 'refresh' button while in demo mode, the app will do a real refresh and look for TVs again instead of requiring you to exit and restart. Note that if you try to refresh without being on WiFi, no TVs will be found.
Pressing 'power off' will drop back to the tv list - instead of just sitting at the controls screen, powering off your TV will drop back to the list of TVs and automatically remove the one that was just powered off. You can refresh the list if there are other Samsung TVs on the network or you turn yours back on.
Added device lock/multi-task resume detection - the app will automatically attempt to reconnect to a TV when resuming if you were connected to one when the app was deactivated. Note that there's currently no timeout for a TV connection attempt, so if your TV has been powered off, you'll have to exit the app and restart it to connect to a new TV.
edit: Update 2 posted:
Added text input - there's a new QWERTY button on the navigation page that will allow you to input text on the phone and send it to the TV. NOTE: This only works in areas where the TV actually supports it. The YouTube app is not a supported area, unfortunately. It doesn't even work with the actual TV remote's keyboard. If anyone knows of a way to make this work, please let me know, but for now I'm assuming the TV just doesn't support text entry in all areas.
Minor 'searching for tv' fixes - the app should try a bit more aggressively to find TV's during its 10-second searching window. Previously it was giving up too soon, so now it has had a new motivator installed and is ready to go to work.
edit: Removed the .xaps posted here as they were way out of date. This is a free app available on the marketplace from the link above.
Feedback quite welcome.
Good to see mango apps are coming out, that's the one thing missing in this update.
i will test this app with my samsung c650 tomorrow, and let you know if it works : )
don't work on samsung c6000...you can make it work on this samsung??
mrbel87 said:
don't work on samsung c6000...you can make it work on this samsung??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe...what's it doing? Does it sit forever at "searching for tv..."? Do you have your TV hooked up to your network?
yeah, my tv is connected to the network via Ethernet, how do I find it?
searching fot tv...forever
sorry for bad english
same here, samsung le40c650 connected via ethernet to same network and phone is searching for connection forever .
Alright, thanks for the feedback guys. I don't have any other TV to test it with, so I'll have to go back to the drawing board and see what I'm doing wrong. If either of you wants the source to poke around with, I'm happy to share.
I assume you both have Mango, right?
Works perfect on my UN55D6000. Thanks, awesome work
yes, i've mango
is it possible that my TV does not support this feature?
mrbel87 said:
yes, i've mango
is it possible that my TV does not support this feature?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
check Menu-system-network remote control
If it's not there its not supported
megagprime said:
Works perfect on my UN55D6000. Thanks, awesome work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's exciting to hear. Guess I need to find a C-series and see what's different if it's working on my D-series and yours.
mrbel87 said:
yes, i've mango
is it possible that my TV does not support this feature?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that's possible. Try what megagprime suggested. It's also possible that the C-series TVs have a slightly different format in their response message that my app isn't picking up. I will see if any of my friends has a C-series that I can test the app on .
Wait wait... i checked my remote controll settings , and reseted the remote access (off, and then on) and it works.
So im officially telliing you that le40c650 is supported in your app
yeeees!
you're my new hero!
will test this this weekend!
behh said:
Wait wait... i checked my remote controll settings , and reseted the remote access (off, and then on) and it works.
So im officially telliing you that le40c650 is supported in your app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hooray! I appreciate the follow-up .
I updated the first post to include some extra things to try if the remote isn't working with your C- or D-series Samsung TV.
This app is sick
I found that if ur phone goes to sleep and wakes up it thinks it's still connected but it's not, you have to refresh the list and reconnect, maybe auto reconnect feature?
megagprime said:
This app is sick
I found that if ur phone goes to sleep and wakes up it thinks it's still connected but it's not, you have to refresh the list and reconnect, maybe auto reconnect feature?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah yes, thanks for the feedback. Haven't had time to work on this lately, but hope to get auto-retries for TV searching in soon as well.
Parnic said:
Ah yes, thanks for the feedback. Haven't had time to work on this lately, but hope to get auto-retries for TV searching in soon as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
been using this app full time now, so cool. Definitely needs autoreconnect or something like that and too bad these bad boy tvz don't have wake_on_Lan
I recently got a lumia 822 and would like to use it as a USB connected http proxy. I don't want a full network connection or wifi based solution as I need to keep my computer connected to the existing network but would like to be able to tell Firefox to connect to the Internet via a proxy so web traffic if passed through the phone thus avoiding the internal web monitoring.
I do this via proxoid on my android phone and it works perfect. If there a comparable solution for windows phone 8?
Thanks
The only solution available is TetherX. Its available in the Windows Phone Store. It works via WiFi that's hosted from a laptop and only WebPages work. The only device at this time that supports USB tethering is the Samsung ATIV, using Diagnosis.
Sent from my RM-860 using Tapatalk
That's... not really USB tethering in the usual sense at all (which does exist, at least for the Samsung WP8 phones) but it might be possible. I don't know if anybody has written a proxy server app for the phone yet, but it's a pretty clever thing to do, now that I think about it. The SDK should support it; we can do server sockets just fine. Doing it over USB would be tricky - the phone can do Ethernet over USB, but it's not part of the official SDK - but it might be possible. Setting it up as a WiFi proxy (with some security, ideally...) shouldn't be too hard.
GoodDayToDie said:
That's... not really USB tethering in the usual sense at all (which does exist, at least for the Samsung WP8 phones) but it might be possible. I don't know if anybody has written a proxy server app for the phone yet, but it's a pretty clever thing to do, now that I think about it. The SDK should support it; we can do server sockets just fine. Doing it over USB would be tricky - the phone can do Ethernet over USB, but it's not part of the official SDK - but it might be possible. Setting it up as a WiFi proxy (with some security, ideally...) shouldn't be too hard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, calling it a tether is not exactly right but I wasn't really sure what to call it. The issue with having it as a wifi spot is that it would be visible. The real reason I was looking for something like this is work has pretty draconian monitoring software. I haven't gotten the phone yet but once I do I may try to look into how the computer sees it when plugged into USB. If the phone can be exposed as an ip (127.0.0.1) via USB then it would seem possible to write an app to open a port and pass the traffic back and forth.
Thank you though.
HT123 said:
Yeah, calling it a tether is not exactly right but I wasn't really sure what to call it. The issue with having it as a wifi spot is that it would be visible. The real reason I was looking for something like this is work has pretty draconian monitoring software. I haven't gotten the phone yet but once I do I may try to look into how the computer sees it when plugged into USB. If the phone can be exposed as an ip (127.0.0.1) via USB then it would seem possible to write an app to open a port and pass the traffic back and forth.
Thank you though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, I don't have the phone yet so all of these ideas are just wild speculation but at quick glance the program ipoverusbenum may help in a USB proxy solution. without a way to do this, I'm stuck with my old android device.
Hi All,
Today I just bought vulnerable Chromecast from Bestbuy, and I may order OTG cable from Amazon today for the rooting.
I'm kinda new for Chromecast and custom ROM, so if somebody can help me for the following questions, I would sincerely appreciate.
1. What is the main difference we can expect now from Custom ROM? e.g., Does it support "LOCAL MEDIA PLAYING" or other extra features the original Chromecast can't do now? What option we have so far?
2. Is it possible to unroot the ROM to the original Chromecast? I just want to know I have the chance to go back original Chromecast ROM later if I want after rooting the Chromecast.
Thank you very much for your help in advance, and let's enjoy CC.
If you have set up your Chromecast with Internet access, UNPLUG IT NOW - until you update to a rooted firmware that doesn't auto-update, it will try to auto-update itself and make itself unrootable.
For PwnCast 1.0, you get ADB enabled, root access, no auto-update from Google stock (which means no auto-un-rooting!), use of DHCP-supplied DNS (instead of always using Google's DNS). You also get the ability to flash more mods like KyoCast which will let you play local media via an appropriate AirCast/AllCast version. There's another mod that lets you force the DNS to Unlocator, if you want only your Chromecast to use Unlocator (versus the rest of your network by changing your router's DNS).
Umm... I don't know if anyone posted a stock firmware.
bhiga said:
If you have set up your Chromecast with Internet access, UNPLUG IT NOW - until you update to a rooted firmware that doesn't auto-update, it will try to auto-update itself and make itself unrootable.
For PwnCast 1.0, you get ADB enabled, root access, no auto-update from Google stock (which means no auto-un-rooting!), use of DHCP-supplied DNS (instead of always using Google's DNS). You also get the ability to flash more mods like KyoCast which will let you play local media via an appropriate AirCast/AllCast version. There's another mod that lets you force the DNS to Unlocator, if you want only your Chromecast to use Unlocator (versus the rest of your network by changing your router's DNS).
Umm... I don't know if anyone posted a stock firmware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply. So far, I've unboxed CC and now looking for OTG with power cable (from the Amazon search, "Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power", it seems many people are complaining that "micro-USB OTG with power cable" do not give the power, so I have no idea now what OTG cable I should purchase since I requires power for CC to root.)
Once anyone post a stock firmware, is it possible to go back unrooted version using Flashcast?
Sorry for many questions~, thanks.
I got this powered Micro USB OTG cable and this identical one from a US-based seller. Both work fine for rooting Chromecast. The MicroUSB plug goes into the Chromecast, the flash drive into the USB A port, and the Chromecast's power plug into the MicroUSB jack.
My first Flashcast attempt involved a cable from one of my external hard drives and a mess of adapters. It worked, but I went with the dedicated cable for future flashing convenience.
As for a flashable stock firmware, I suppose it's possible just like it is for phones, just nobody has made it a priority since Chromecast is a cheap device compared to a multi-$$$ phone.
Hi,
Noob here. I have an RKM 802IV (4.4. KitKat) with SuperUS installed that I have upgraded to SuperUS Pro. I also have the Hola App installed and thereby the problem.
Basically Hola does not work properly on the RKM while it works on every other device I have installed it on both Windows and Android. The RMK is the only "rooted" device and I I have read that Hola needs SuperUS Permissions but it has never "requested" them.
What I mean by does not work is that I am based in OZ and am a Netflix Subscriber, when I try to use Hola to access Netflix in the USA, it says it is in the USA but then it accesses Netflix in OZ? On every other device/system it works perfectly but not on the "rooted" RMK with SuperUS.
Any help to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
laopa99
Update and Possible Resolution
Hi,
Just an update on my problem. I have been discussing the issue with Hola Support (Skype) and they passed it on to their R&D.
After numerous updates to Hola this week the RKM802IV is now working, for me, with SuperUS Pro and with no Permissions Problems.
Streaming Netflix is no problem but other sites e.g. CBS still need some work, as picture quality sucks.
Regardless Hola Support have done a fantastic job and have now seemed to recognized "mini pc's" as important to their development.
Thanks and Regards
laopa
Not the App, it was the Ethernet Apapter
Don't know why I putting myself out there as an idiot but just to clear matters up.
OK, quick update.
Physically the RKM802IV is connected to the "dumb" Samsung CD via a HDMI Cable. For the Internet connection there is a NetGear EX6200 Range Extender, literally next to the TV. The Internet WiFi signal to the EX6200 comes from my Router/Modem, a Fritz Box 7490, which is about 10-15 meters away from the EX6200 with a clear line of sight.
Now when I connect the RKM802IV to the EX6200 via WiFi, Hola/Netflix does not work - even the latest versions (844) however if I connect the RKM802IV to the EX6200 via an Android Compatible USB to Ethernet Adapter (has three extra USB Ports = <> $10 Aus$) then Hola/Netflix works????
No idea why Hola/Netflix does not work with a WiFi connection and then does with an Ethernet connection to the same EX6200 Range Extender - over a distance of <> 30cms.
Whatever Hola may or may not have done with updating their App it would appear the problem was fixed by the Ethernet Connection?
No idea!
Hola Update
Hi,
This is not meant to be "bumping", just an update.
Latest from Hola.
[Hola does not yet officially support these platforms, but this is coming soon! Follow us to know when this is available: Follow us on Twitter or Like us on Facebook ]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yahoo!:fingers-crossed:
Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
AAGateWay Documentation.
Beta released (04.01.2020)
What is it?
AAGateWay is a an app which should allow you to use an auxiliary (slave) device to connect your existing Android Auto compatible car to your phone (master) using a hotspot created on your phone.
How to use it?
SLAVE SETUP
1) Install the app using XDA Labs (Only on SLAVE) : https://www.b3itlabs.com/prod.php?id=3
2) Configure
FOR BOTH ROOTED AND NOT-ROOTED SLAVES
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Pair Master and Slave over BT (do this from the normal BT settings)
Open app
If slave is ROOTED and ONLY if you are using a TV STICK convert the app to system app. (if app not visible after conversion, reboot device)
Enable the start tethering option (If asked make sure you manually configure the hotspot, to have the name HUR and the password AndroidAutoConnect)
Select the masters phone BT MAC
Exit
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Create a Wifi hotspot from the master
Connect slave to it
Reopen AAGateWay and select the masters hotspot from the "Phone Wifi SSID" list
Slave is ROOTED - This will give a much bigger compatibility with cars, it should work with any car/unit (but depends a lot on the slave used, read below)
Slave is NOT ROOTED - This mode won't work on all cars and it has caveats.
MASTER SETUP
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Install WiFi Launcher for HUR (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borconi.emil.wifilauncherforhur)
Make sure WiFi Launcher is version 2.1 or higher!!!
Open WiFi Launcher
FOR Android 10, set permission location to ALWAYS!!!!!!
Select slaves BT from the BT list and exit
DO NOT ENABLE ANY OF THE OTHER OPTIONS!!!!
If you do not want to use WiFi Launcher you can use the following Tasker task to launch AA on any condition you want: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO-Z5P0oQpHEdrQjYqvSM48L1TI-K5g8/view?usp=sharing
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Open Android Auto, go to Settings, scroll down tap the version 10 times, then from the 3 dotted top right corner select start headunti server.
Exit Android Auto
Leave the Headunit Server running
When you get into the car turn on the hotspot on the master (or use Tasker, automate or anything else do that for you)
CONNECTING
Go to the car, plug in the slave to the car's USB and start the car
Slave is ROOTED
Nothing should happen, car should NOT detect the phone (SLAVE) at this stage. If the car does detect the slave being connected, it means your slave doesn't allow a proper USB toggle, in which case you should try enabling non-root mode.
Master is Pie and above
If you selected to tether from the slave, at this point you should see the slave turning on the hotspot, otherwise you might see the slave trying to connect to a Wifi network.
Slave will notify master
Master will automatically start WiFi Launcher
Master will connect to slaves hotspot
Master will start AA on the phone and notifies slave
Slave will enable USB
If you are using a phone as slave you will get a prompt if you want to use AAGW as the default app for this action, make sure you select ALWAYS ans yes. (TV stick should work automatically)
Projection should start
Slave is NOT-ROOTED (or running in non-root mode)
You will get a prompt to use AAGateWay for this action, make sure you select always.
Car should display a splah-screen saying waiting for master. (on some car's screen you might see a scrambled image)
After splash-screen is displayed, the slave will start tethering, or will try to connect to the masters hotspot depending on the setting.
Once a network connection is established between the 2 devices, you will see the AA icon turning on on the master and Android Auto should be displayed on the car's screen. It is possible that the screen will stay /turn black, if that happens, you can try to press the home button on the infotainment system, then re-open Android Auto on it.
Troubleshoot and getting help
As the thread has so much information it will be really nice if we can try to stick to one format of troubleshooting, by using one of this 2 templates:
Master is running Pie or above and slave is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave actually turned on the hotspot on the slave: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the slaves BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up?: (Yes/No)
Did the master connected to the slaves hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the AA icon appeared on the master at all (in the notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Master is running Oreo or below and master is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did you select the masters hotspot name in AAGW?: (Yes/No)
Have you started the Headunit server on the master?: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the cars BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up (notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Did the master turned on the hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave connected to the masters hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Getting rid of all automation and manually starting it all (regardless of Android version on master and slave):
Uninstall AAGW on the master
Start the headunit server from within Android Auto on the master
Create a hotspot on the master
Open AAGW on the slave and make sure it's not set to tether
in AAGW make sure you select the masters hotspot
If AAGW is set to non-root mode make sure you select the masters BT (just press the button AAGW will do a BT scan of nearby devices and you can pick it from the list)
Go to the car and plug the slave in
Start the car
If slave is running in ROOT mode, slave will first try to connect to the masters Wifi and you will see a notification on the master that AA is running, only then the car should recognise a plugged in device.
If the slave is running in non-root mode, first you will see a splash screen on the car, then you will see slave connects to masters Wifi (if not already connected), then you will see AA starting on the master.
How do I collect a bug report / logcat
Open Settings > About phone.
Scroll down to the Build number.
Tap the Build number 7 times in quick succession until "You're now a developer" appears.
Return to the Settings menu and select Developer options.
At the top of the screen, make sure 'Developer options' is set to On (green).
Scroll down to Debugging and enable both USB debugging and Bug Report Shortcut on (green).
Tab on Logger buffer sizes: Default setting is 256K. Select 16M to help capture more information for debugging. Of note, it can affect the apps performance especially with lower spec phone, so change it back after you have finished submitting bug reports.
On slave make sure you enable debugging inside AAGW, on master open Android Auto go to developer settings and make sure force logging is enabled.
Reproduce the problem
Hold the Power button down until the menu appears.
Select Take bug report. and wait for the device to capture the bug report.
Tap the 'Bug report captured' notification when it appears.
Send the bug report by email to [email protected]
Know problems, workaround:
- Latency & lag. This will be really down to the devices you are using. I have tested it with a MK808B Plus, it work’s ok most of the time but occasionally you will get the odd lag. I’ve also tested it with a Nexus 7 tablet, and there was no lag at all, so device does matter, as well as probably ROM.
- I get random disconnection. There can be 2 causes for this, one the USB connection fails between the car and the auxiliary device, or the Wifi fails between the phone and the auxiliary device. In my tests I saw a few Wifi disconnections without any reason on the MK808, but non on the Nexus. Changing the tethering option from WPA2 to Open did help with this.
- App is closed without error or reason. The app runs in a background process, with a minimal interaction with the foreground, some devices/OS will kill background apps. I saw this happening on Nokia and I saw this happening on OnePlus as well. Try disabling battery optimisation for AAGateWay, that might help.
- I just cannot get it to work… Try using a phone, that will at least give you some visual guidance. Make sure that your device connects to the phone Wifi hotspot, make sure that AA Headunit server is running on the phone (try to force stop Goolge Play Services, stop and restart the headunit server)… All fails contact me
- Nothing happens on the master, using Wifi Launcher for HUR app. In this case, try to manually start the headunit server on the master, and manually turn on a hotspot, then reconfigure you're slave to connect to the masters hotspot (even if the master is running Pie or higher).
Device compatibility:
Master:
Any phone which normally works with Android Auto
Slave with ROOT:
- Tested and know to work: - MK809V, Nexus 7 (depending on rom), Sony X Compact (depending on rom)
-Tested and not working as expected: Pixel 2, MK808B
- While root is necessary, not all phones can toggle USB port on and off by software. And there can be other problems, for example on some devices when you turn off the USB the phone loses the ability to detect the power connection as well, which is use as trigger to start the whole process. It is almost impossible to predict if a phone will be a good slave candidate or not.
Other things
- Xiaomi phones (MIUI makes a mess), try not to use it for Slave
- Generally older phones (pre oreo) are more likely to work fine as a slave device.
Any suggested slave?
- Yes, use an MK809V TV stick, as the experience with it, is pretty slick and it should work out of the box. If you get a MK809IV try to get the one with Android 5.1.1 as the one with Android 7.1 has problems with the tethering.
FAQ.
Q: Can I use this with any car and phone combination?
A: Assuming your car is already Android Auto compatible, then YES.
Q: Can I also automate the start of the Headunit server?
A: Only with a rooted phone, using the following shell command: am startservice -W com.google.android.projection.gearhead/com.google.android.projection.gearhead.companion.DeveloperHeadUnitNetworkService
Q: Can I use Wifi-Direct to connect instead of WIfi?
A: No.
Q: Does the traffic come out from my monthly data allowance?
A: NO, traffic between auxiliary device and phone hotspot does NOT count as internet traffic, HOWEVER if you do have other apps on the auxiliary device which download updates, etc in the background that WILL be counted as internet traffic. So I suggest double check the apps on the aux device and disable all those which aren’t needed.
Q: Will the car/head unit provide enough power?
A: It should provide at least 500mA that’s the standard USB current, while I cannot guarantee that will be enough in all cases, it should do, assuming you do turn off all unneeded services on the TV stick.
Q. What about start up time?
A. It will depend a lot on the device you are using. A low-entry TV stick boot time is about 1 minute, which can be a bit too much for an initial car setup. As mentioned earlier, these devices usually have 2 USB ports, you can for example connect the power USB port to a continues power supply in the car, in which case the boot time will be non-existent since the device is always running. If you are using a phone, the phone battery will probably hold the charge just fine for a couple of days, if you disable all apps on it and you set up a profile to go into aeroplane mode when it’s not charging. Tasker or Automate are your friends for that. If you cannot connect the TV stick to a continues power source, you might consider using a small portable power pack which powers the tv stick (should hold power for a few days) and the power pack can be charged while the car is running.
Q. Can I decrease boot time for TV Sticks/Phones by removing all unrelated software.
A. Yes, actually quite a lot. Once you have your configuration ready and everything is working as expected, you can uninstall/disable all packages beside this ones:
package:android
package:com.android.apkinstaller
package:com.android.providers.settings
package:com.android.packageinstaller
package:com.notriddle.null_launcer (or any other launcher, but NULL launcher has no memory consumption, no app drawer no nothing, perfect for headless - see: https://github.com/notriddle/null-launcher )
package:com.android.inputmethod.latin
package:com.android.settings
package:uk.co.borconi.emil.aagateway
package:com.android.shell
package:com.android.systemui
Easy way to list / disable all apps will be using a computer and following commands
Code:
adb shell pm list packages
This will list all installed packages
Code:
adb shell pm disable xxxx
where you replace xxxx with the package name (Ex: com.android.shell )
Q. Will using Wifi 5Ghz give me better performance?
A. Well if both of your devices support it, SURE!
Q. Is the source code available?
A. Sort-of, please see: https://github.com/borconi/AAGateWay this is only for the sketch, however new version does contain code which lift restrictions on 3rd party apps in Android Auto. To prevent the abuse of this by some, further code won't be updated to GitHub, however if you want to build your own version, please do contact me for details.
Guarantee or Warranty
- Due to the fact that there are so many possibilities and combinations of cars, head units, slave and master devices, there is no way for me to test all of them, however if you did purchase the software and you are not able to get it to work for any reason, please email me on [email protected] and I'm more then happy to refund the purchase.
Teaser:
VERY interested in the progress on this, Emil. For one, this would allow me to charge my Samsung using the Quick Charge adapter in my cigarette lighter, rather than relying on the anemic power output of my truck's USB port. Or if I want to get fancy, I could install a wireless charger and use that.
Thanks for all of your hard work.
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Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?
Another great idea.
Definitely interested..
thanks.
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I thought of you instantly when I saw this thread on Reddit, but didn't imagine that you were the creator.
Congratulations and thanks again!
Jackos said:
Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly no, that will require altering the firmware on the car and each unit is different. It is possible that those unit might get an official update for Wifi support, but although I'm not 100% certain, I think it will only work with 5Ghz Wifi network, so if you're unit is 2.4Ghz only probably it won't get the update.
If I will ever have times (something which I never have ) I might look into adding this to some units out there, but that is so far down the line, that realistically speaking probably will never happen.
Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?
This is awesome news! looking forward to progress!
lukesan said:
Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly
Emil Borconi said:
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.
lukesan said:
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.
Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, sounds like a bit of an issue that you can't really test since we'll have no screen. Well maybe a sort of a config txt file. Most of us will have to clear the thing on a tv screen or monitor anyway because a lot of crap is installed on these devices. I guess it makes sense to have something that can show if the stick is getting data from the phone. There is always a way.
Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No offense to obd2aa, I use it daily, but I'd be interested in this even without it
Where is the APK to give it a try ?
Emil Borconi said:
Currently only a placeholder for those interested in the project while working on development.
Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
If you are interested in this project please simply subscribe to this thread and follow the updates.
Teaser:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested, I have a Tahoe with AA and an Android stick. Your project sounds great, can't wait!!
You should have it by the 17th of July, I'm just in the middle of rewriting another app, once I completed that I will focus on this one. I'm going away on a holiday on the 17th of July so I'm really pushing to have it out there by then.
Having the same XAV-AX100, and I was pissed off when I heard that in order to use wireless android auto it needs to be replaced.
Great idea, can`t wait to test it.
Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
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jeromeo01 said:
Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
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Click to collapse
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.
Emil Borconi said:
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its exactly the same.
Mini PC stick, but using windows 10 as OS.
Just a little bit more expensive. But I already have one to try. [emoji6]
https://www.windowscentral.com/best-stick-pcs
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