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Hi all,
I've just bought my first HTC unit ever (Kaiser), which is also my first Windows Mobile Phone (I used PocketPCs since 2001 but with no integrated phone so far), and it seems to have a lot of issues in the areas of "regular phone" functionality.
However, the one that is really freaking me out so far is the whole "Bluetooth audio" area. I'm just wondering whether I would ever be able to get what I want or am I asking too much.
I have 3 Bluetooth audio devices, all of them are dual Headset/Headphone ones: in-car fixed Motorola T605, Jabra BT8010 and Plantronics 590. Now, naturally, I want to use the T605 in the car, Jabra for phone calls only throughout the day and for music occasionally, and Plantronics when I'm in the gym, for both music and occasional incoming phone calls.
I had all this working flawlessly with my SonyEricsson K800i phone: each device connected to the phone automatically when powered up and automatically took over both Headset and Headphone functions. The only minor problem was reconnecting Jabra when stepping out of the car, which required only a short tap on the button.
Now, with Kaiser, things are much more complicated. When a device (any of them) is connected to the phone, both as Headset and Headphones, it works mostly OK, although sometimes there is a problem of sound not coming through the device when an incoming call was answered while playing music. The music is suspended OK, but the sound comes from the phone speaker instead of the respective Bluetooth device. This happens from time to time, not always.
But the biggest problem is the initial connection of a device after another one has already been connected. When I enter my car and fire up the engine, I want the T605 to automatically connect to the phone even if Jabra has already been connected. This I was unable to achieve. Instead, I have to manually disconnect Jabra (by powering it off or temporarily powering off Bluetooth on the phone) and then manually connect the phone with the T605, for both Headset and Wireless Music (two actions required!). Now, for me, this is unacceptable.
Moreover, when I arrive to a destination and want to step out of the car, I have to manually reconnect my Jabra to the Kaiser, again, through the phone’s Bluetooth settings as described above. A short tap on Jabra’s button no longer works for this purpose, in opposite to SE K800i.
Making the long story short, this is completely unacceptable behavior for me, and I haven’t found so far a way to make it the way I need it.
Any advices?
mpogr said:
Hi all,
I've just bought my first HTC unit ever (Kaiser), which is also my first Windows Mobile Phone (I used PocketPCs since 2001 but with no integrated phone so far), and it seems to have a lot of issues in the areas of "regular phone" functionality.
However, the one that is really freaking me out so far is the whole "Bluetooth audio" area. I'm just wondering whether I would ever be able to get what I want or am I asking too much.
I have 3 Bluetooth audio devices, all of them are dual Headset/Headphone ones: in-car fixed Motorola T605, Jabra BT8010 and Plantronics 590. Now, naturally, I want to use the T605 in the car, Jabra for phone calls only throughout the day and for music occasionally, and Plantronics when I'm in the gym, for both music and occasional incoming phone calls.
I had all this working flawlessly with my SonyEricsson K800i phone: each device connected to the phone automatically when powered up and automatically took over both Headset and Headphone functions. The only minor problem was reconnecting Jabra when stepping out of the car, which required only a short tap on the button.
Now, with Kaiser, things are much more complicated. When a device (any of them) is connected to the phone, both as Headset and Headphones, it works mostly OK, although sometimes there is a problem of sound not coming through the device when an incoming call was answered while playing music. The music is suspended OK, but the sound comes from the phone speaker instead of the respective Bluetooth device. This happens from time to time, not always.
But the biggest problem is the initial connection of a device after another one has already been connected. When I enter my car and fire up the engine, I want the T605 to automatically connect to the phone even if Jabra has already been connected. This I was unable to achieve. Instead, I have to manually disconnect Jabra (by powering it off or temporarily powering off Bluetooth on the phone) and then manually connect the phone with the T605, for both Headset and Wireless Music (two actions required!). Now, for me, this is unacceptable.
Moreover, when I arrive to a destination and want to step out of the car, I have to manually reconnect my Jabra to the Kaiser, again, through the phone’s Bluetooth settings as described above. A short tap on Jabra’s button no longer works for this purpose, in opposite to SE K800i.
Making the long story short, this is completely unacceptable behavior for me, and I haven’t found so far a way to make it the way I need it.
Any advices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried the Bluetooth fix on HTC's website?
Asking is easy, searching is hard work for some people it seems. No offence..
I'm using Schap's ROM which is supposed to have this fix built-in.
mpogr said:
I'm using Schap's ROM which is supposed to have this fix built-in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh. didn't see that in your first post..
I think you are suffering the same prob as many. Every time a BT device comes out, it never seems to work with what we had before. BT protocols are NOT fixed (The IEEE STILL have not fully implemented a specific proto!), they change faster than we change our devices.
As I said before (without meaning any offence) search the whole forum, many threads have been out on this subject and some advice/fixes or equipment references are out there.
Well, I did search these forums and haven't seen someone referring to the same kind of problems I'm having.
Now, regarding your comment about variety of BT devices... I don't buy that. My SE K800i is 1 year old and works perfectly with this combination of devices.
I have pretty extensive experience with Broadcom/Widcomm BT stack on PC and older models of PocketPC (the one I have is IPAQ 5555) and I suspect these foes are direct derivatives from the fact Kaiser uses MS BT stack, which is much inferior. However, it seems nobody was able to make Broadcom/Widcomm stack work on Kaiser so far...
mpogr said:
Well, I did search these forums and haven't seen someone referring to the same kind of problems I'm having.
Now, regarding your comment about variety of BT devices... I don't buy that. My SE K800i is 1 year old and works perfectly with this combination of devices.
I have pretty extensive experience with Broadcom/Widcomm BT stack on PC and older models of PocketPC (the one I have is IPAQ 5555) and I suspect these foes are direct derivatives from the fact Kaiser uses MS BT stack, which is much inferior. However, it seems nobody was able to make Broadcom/Widcomm stack work on Kaiser so far...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I'm sorry if you don't. I only tried to help. Seem's you've asked a question and have already formed an opinion to it!!!
I have personal experience of Sony's proprietory connection limitations.
My BT works fine on all my devices....will leave you to others.
Looks like I found a partial solution which makes my life almost perfect...
It seems the real problem is taking over Kaiser from a previously connected device. So, if I switch my Jabra off several seconds before I fire up my car's engine, my T605 is able to connect to it. Same goes the other way around, I can turn off the car engine and then fire up the Jabra several seconds later. In this case all is good.
Looks like the MS BT stack is still ill-implemented though, as, for example, when in active Wireless Music BT connection, the device is unable to discover any other Bluetooth devices or to connect to other device's BT serial interface, which makes using external GPS devices difficult.
This could be a problem for me since my car (Citroen C5) has special anti-radiation coating on its windshield which quite effectively screens the satellite signals. Therefore I came up with a solution of having a BT GPS device permanently located in the car (actually, in the driver's seat back pocket) hardwired to the mains as well as to an external GPS antenna. This setup is effectively beating both reception and start-up time problems.
With Kaiser’s limitation on simultaneous BT connections I’m unable to use this setup anymore. Yes, I could bypass using an additional GPS device by connecting the external antenna to Kaiser’s internal GPS, but this looks like a cumbersome solution as I couldn’t find a Kaiser-compatible mounting with a socket for hardwiring an external GPS antenna.
Luckily for me, I still have my old IPAQ loaded with GPS software which I prefer to use for navigation anyway thanks to its significantly bigger screen
mpogr said:
Looks like I found a partial solution which makes my life almost perfect...
It seems the real problem is taking over Kaiser from a previously connected device. So, if I switch my Jabra off several seconds before I fire up my car's engine, my T605 is able to connect to it. Same goes the other way around, I can turn off the car engine and then fire up the Jabra several seconds later. In this case all is good.
Looks like the MS BT stack is still ill-implemented though, as, for example, when in active Wireless Music BT connection, the device is unable to discover any other Bluetooth devices or to connect to other device's BT serial interface, which makes using external GPS devices difficult.
This could be a problem for me since my car (Citroen C5) has special anti-radiation coating on its windshield which quite effectively screens the satellite signals. Therefore I came up with a solution of having a BT GPS device permanently located in the car (actually, in the driver's seat back pocket) hardwired to the mains as well as to an external GPS antenna. This setup is effectively beating both reception and start-up time problems.
With Kaiser’s limitation on simultaneous BT connections I’m unable to use this setup anymore. Yes, I could bypass using an additional GPS device by connecting the external antenna to Kaiser’s internal GPS, but this looks like a cumbersome solution as I couldn’t find a Kaiser-compatible mounting with a socket for hardwiring an external GPS antenna.
Luckily for me, I still have my old IPAQ loaded with GPS software which I prefer to use for navigation anyway thanks to its significantly bigger screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to here you have a resolution (albeit a partial one).
Just one thing, why would you want to connect to an external BT GPS at the same time as your car kit? Can't you get a good enough signal on the internal GPS or is there another reason?
Farsquidge said:
...Can't you get a good enough signal on the internal GPS...?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's what I wrote in my post above. This antiradiation coating is a real satellite signal killer...
But, IMO, Kaiser's screen is too small for in-car navigation anyway, so having a dedicated unit is always a plus
mpogr said:
Yes, that's what I wrote in my post above. This antiradiation coating is a real satellite signal killer...
But, IMO, Kaiser's screen is too small for in-car navigation anyway, so having a dedicated unit is always a plus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, blind AND stupid!
Yes I agree the screen is too small for general use. I have a dedicated GPS in the car and only use the TyTnII as a temporary routefinder whenever needed.
I've had my Diamond for a week now and apart from the battery life being a bit poor - I love it!
I'm managing to get through all the little niggles and annoyances with the help of you guys - but this one has me stumped!
I set it up with my bluetooth car kit. Its an Alpine stereo with a bluetooth unit attached (iDA-X001 with KCE-300BT if anyones interested?!).
The car kit has worked fine with most of my previous phones except Nokia Symbian ones. Perhaps this has changed in newer updates to them - but the original N95 wouldnt display my phone book.#
It works the same way as a Parrot - in that the unit checks your phone book for recent updates - and keeps them stored on it. Then you can dial from it by selecting a number from your 'local' phonebook.
The Diamond seems to work fine with incoming calls - but sticks at 'Updating' with outgoing - meaning I can never make a call from the car kit without dialing with the handset. Its like it never pushes the phone numbers across to the bluetooth adapter (which is meant to store them). I've clicked the Remote SIM on in the settings. Anything else I can try?
Is there a way I can FORCE my contacts onto it?
Hello everyone
I recently, (finally) ordered a headphone/usb splitter thingy so i can play my tunes off the tilt in my car. Either thru an fm transmitter or a headphone/tape converter i put in the tape deck in my car. First off, im totallly impressed how great the sound is thru the stereo, a combo of car stereo settings/ and the audio booster/equalizer make even slayer sound good at the proverbial (11).
My question is this, im not sure if the att sites around here are jacked way up (power-wise) or what. But that annoying beeping, fluttering, digital sound you get thru your house speakers if you set your phone to close (or your tv or anything else w/a speaker for that matter)... its happening in the car also.
I can understand when im using the youtube player, the thing is streaming.
But even just playing mp3's or watching a movie thats on the SD card, i still get it from certain towers in certain towns. We have hellacious service here in New England, with alot of the towers on major routes not even doing handoffs correctly, resulting in missed calls etc. So i have a reason to wonder if its the service im getting i suppose.
Being the (non) brainiac that i am, i took a shield from a 25 pair cable i was punching down at work the other day, and put a large piece of it over my headphone wire/connector. Would this do anything? Is there such a device you could buy? (some sort of RF/emf shield?) It seems to work if the phone itself is the problem (youtube)... however coming thru by a certain cell tower again the other morning, that thing was chirping and burping like 2 dollar gutter whore.
Any suggestions or comments on this are appreciated, sorry for the rambling.
I live in North Mississippi near Memphis and have experienced the same issue. Sorry that I am no help towards a solution. Just thought I would let you know you are not alone.
freekquency said:
Being the (non) brainiac that i am, i took a shield from a 25 pair cable i was punching down at work the other day, and put a large piece of it over my headphone wire/connector. Would this do anything?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, the RF emitted by the phone is acting direclty onto the low level circuitry inside the car radio.
Even if you're not streaming anything, when the phone switches to another cell toper it notifies it that it has done so, and thus will communicate for a moment. How often it will do so, whether it will be on every tower or only after defined amounts of time, or even every group of X towers is defined by the operator. If you say coverage is know to be bad they might have just set it to notify on each tower and the phone is often switching.
Sometimes placing your phone on an antistatic bag, like Hard Drives come in helps. At least it does with computer speakers.
The noise is referrd to as RFI (Radio Frequency Interence) and EMI (Electro
Magnetic Interference). Both of these are what is affecting your system.
As your phone gets POLLED (Where are you message) by the cell phone tower, it responds with a "Here I AM" message. Its this initial communication
(handshake) that that is causing the interference.
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/question230.htm
From another website:
"a cellphone tower can only support a limited number of simultaneously
connected cellphones. It therefore needs to know exactly when a cellphone
leaves its range, or disconnects from the network altogether, so it can free
up its connection slot for use by another cellphone. Normally a phone
communicates a disconnect to the tower whenever possible (for example if
it's getting out of reach and connects to another tower, it then disconnects
from the first and the connection gets transferred gracefully from the old
tower to the new one, even in the middle of a conversation). However, if you
just yank out the batteries, the phone gets utterly destroyed, you suddenly
enter a cage of faraday or even an underground tunnel, ... the phone will
have no time to notify the tower, so the tower needs to check up on
supposedly connected phones from time to time to check that none of them are
MIA. It's basically similar to an ICMP ping on the Internet. And that's what
you hear over your speakers. Similar thing happens right before a call or
SMS comes in, or when you dial out: there's two-way communication, and the
RF interference the cellphone puts out is picked up by your audio
equipment."
Either move your phone, or turn it 90 degrees to the right or left. It has to do with the phone switching over to Edge (or if it's always on Edge, you're gonna get it regardless) and the speakers are picking up the radio traffic as interference. It shouldn't happen when the phone is on 3G/HSDPA. Just repositioning the antenna, i.e. the phone, has always worked for me. You could also look up distortion reducing tricks, there was something on Makezine.com about putting magnets on the speaker wires to get it to stop, but I couldn't find the entry right now.
Cool beans, thanks for all the info. I understand about handshakes and all that and figured that was exactly what was happening. Doesnt seem to matter 3g/H/E certain towers do it no matter what im doing. As i noted the towers around here have been having major issues w/ handoffs so who knows. BTW not only does your cellphone poll constantly, but usually your phone call is happening on at least 2 towers at a time. So once tower A gets more signal then tower B it switches over to A (which already has your call processing at the same time) So yea its gonna happen no matter what i do. Truthfully its not that big of an issue, but i just came up w/ the greatest cheapo mount, and of course where i have the dam thing is directly over the stereo. lolz
Thanks again!
I have a new car stereo (JVC) that has bluetooth. How do I send my Vivid's phone book to the stereo? The stereo manual says it is possible, but is the Vivid set up to do the send?
Initiate it from the car... Thats easiest. Most of the time it'll ask automatically when you first connect them up. A screen will popup on the vivid asking for permission.
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using xda premium
I followed the instructions in my vehicle manual (BT came with the car) to pair and connect to my Vivid's BT. The car system downloaded the contacts list from my phone. It took a few minutes. But I didn't have to do anything special.
I have done the initialization of the stereo three times now and when I pair for the first time, it never asks me about the phone book.
Still no success
So I had previously been using only google contacts in my people list. I exported to SD, then imported them directly to phone. Then, in people, I selected only viewing from phone. (Can't see an option to bulk copy to SIM) On the stereo, I deleted the Vivid, then reconnected/paired. I did see the phone book share prompt on the Vivid, and checked always. Pair was success, but the phone book import is still not available. JVC suggests reattempting the pair until successful, or until the onset of insanity (almost there!).
Can anyone with success give me details such as brand of stereo, where your contacts were, if there was any delay in the importation, did it require a reboot, did it require a re-pair.
All other bluetoothing operations are fine, except for direct dialing from the Stereo's number pad, but that isn't as critical as the phone book. I almost never direct dial anymore.
I recently installed a bt jvc unit into my wifes car. I know I was able to get the phone book to transfer from her sprint evo. I will look into it to see how I did it and post. I'm 99% sure her contacts are only google and not phone. I'll double check that too.
Keep in mind that some stereos just don't like some phones, I have a sony head-deck with bt/a2dp that is supposed to do the address book thing and I tried for weeks with mine, all different roms and applications and pairing methods and eventually I just gave up, but the same phone pairs and shares the address book almost instantly with the BT stereos that come standard in the toyota yaris and toyota camry's at work...
JVC says it might be because the parking brake wire isn't connected properly. This faulty connection also inhibits the Mic. Since that isn't working either, it has to be the solution. Update coming after the fix.
You can't know your limits until you exceed them.
It was the parking brake ground wire. I had assumed that the ground wire was only to keep video from playing on the display while driving (park brake off).
You can't know your limits until you exceed them.
Got my One today... Pleased so far until I went for a drive and tried out the bluetooth in the car and found a couple of issues:
1 - Audio keeps cutting out every 15 seconds or so. It'll play, then quickly go quiet, and then work its way back up to regular volume. Really annoying!
2 - The meta data is completely wrong. For example, I was playing a podcast via Doggcatcher, yet the meta data was for a track I'd been playing previously in Google Music.
Tried with Beats Audio on, and off, but didn't make any difference. I have several other phones of different makes/models etc... paired with the car and none of them have these issues.
Anyone else having these issues?
debug77 said:
Got my One today... Pleased so far until I went for a drive and tried out the bluetooth in the car and found a couple of issues:
1 - Audio keeps cutting out every 15 seconds or so. It'll play, then quickly go quiet, and then work its way back up to regular volume. Really annoying!
2 - The meta data is completely wrong. For example, I was playing a podcast via Doggcatcher, yet the meta data was for a track I'd been playing previously in Google Music.
Tried with Beats Audio on, and off, but didn't make any difference. I have several other phones of different makes/models etc... paired with the car and none of them have these issues.
Anyone else having these issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same issue, turning wifi off seemed to fix it :good:
The meta data issue is a common problem around Android phones I found out so far. I use N7player and on my car radio display it says Load 8.1 from Eisenfunk, but I'm playing I will be heard from Hatebreed. This happens on different phones with stock player installed.
The Load 8.1 from Eisenfunk is loaded in the stock music player, so the problem seems to be, that you have to find a workaround to get player X your standard player and disable everything else. Since I only use N7, I disabled every other player and it seems to work, but its a lazy workaround. Someone should find a fix for this. Maybe I should just use the stock filemanager and try to start a mp3 and than set N7 to default. Maybe this works.
For the BT cutting outs, I didn't recognize those cutouts. Don't ask me what is wrong at your side, I use a Pioneer DEH-X8500BT car radio and my HTC One is in my pocket. Do you have a bluetooth bridge like Belkin or Logitech BT Audio adapter or wireless speakers like Boombox or such thing so check if this happens with them, too? I had a issue once with a Samsung device and my Creative wireless speakersystem with BT connection and it was cutting off randomly until I found out that another app was causing this.
AW: Bluetooth audio issues
I had the same problem too and solved this by disabling the energy-saving-options. With energysaving all dataconnections will be disabled when the screen gets off.
You can also setup the energysavingsettings and disable the turn off from all dataconnections.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
AW: Bluetooth audio issues
These are the settings to disable.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
debug77 said:
Got my One today... Pleased so far until I went for a drive and tried out the bluetooth in the car and found a couple of issues:
1 - Audio keeps cutting out every 15 seconds or so. It'll play, then quickly go quiet, and then work its way back up to regular volume. Really annoying!
2 - The meta data is completely wrong. For example, I was playing a podcast via Doggcatcher, yet the meta data was for a track I'd been playing previously in Google Music.
Tried with Beats Audio on, and off, but didn't make any difference. I have several other phones of different makes/models etc... paired with the car and none of them have these issues.
Anyone else having these issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to have this problem in 1.28Rom with WifI turn on too, but it fixed in Rom 1.29. :laugh:
How did you get the updated rom?
Spewy1 said:
How did you get the updated rom?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I work in Carrier shop in TW and for the Demo unit is already update to 1.29
ant78 said:
I had the same issue, turning wifi off seemed to fix it :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the pointers guys. I installed AutomateIt so that when it connects to my car's bluetooth, it disables WiFi (and then switches it back on when I get out). Seems to work a treat!
HTC asked me to fill in a support call, but by the sounds of it it's hopefully all sorted in the 1.29 ROM Let's hope for a speedy release of it around the world :good:
Not sure what to do about the meta data though. I use quite a few different music apps (Soundcloud, Google Music, Sony Music, and Doggcatcher) so setting one to be default isn't really a solution for me unfortunately.
I'm getting both issues but I saw this thread before I got my phone and knew to turn off the wifi. A minor inconvenience but glad it'll be fixed in the next update.
As for the meta data, I'm using Gone Mad music player (the dev recently put it on sale and I fancied a change from the now-abandoned ubermusic). I can confirm that the track never changed from the first one I played. Haven't yet tried the stock music player, but I do recall that I had a similar issue on my SGS3 when using a combination of stock, ubermusic and google music. Very annoying. I think the same happened in the brief moment I had the Xperia Z too, so I would agree that it's an Android issue, not necessarily a HTC issue.
Hey there,
not specifically related to use with car sets, but I have general BT headset issues. I already tested two of them. I get dropouts every now and then, i.e. I don't hear the one on the other end, plus people absolutely do not hear me most of the time when I use the BT headset - I have to speak into the phone, and even then no sound at times. No problems with my former HOX though. Can anyone confirm? Am I deemed to NOT use WLAN while having a BT headset connected in general?
Thanks in advance .
I've been having audio issues via A2DP - but again only with WiFi enabled. Not a problem in the car as Tasker will turn off WiFi for me. But in my house when using A2DP streaming, I want to use my WiFi.
Let's hope 1.29 fixes, otherwise I might consider a 5Ghz router...
An FYI. When these phones passed through the FCC I was such a geek that I actually read the transmitter testing. There is an affidavit in there about the BT and WiFI radios sharing an antenna and due to FCC restrictions that the two shall never transmit at the same time. All I can devise is they use a very fast radio switcher to ensure both can be on at once. That software that powers the transmitter transfer mechanism must be not optimized. Or worse, the hardware just really cant handle that. This is what happens when you have aluminum. Need to cram as much into antenna spots as possible. The I-phone 5 has the same setup but their software seems to handle it better. Hopefully this is fixed with a ROM release.
F*ck me, that would explain why I was able to make normal phone calls when I am outside my office - there is no WiFi to interfere! I will have to test tomorrow again, but feel a bit irritated about the fact that I cannot use Bluetooth for audio and WiFi at the same time. Thanks for pointing that out again!
jackdforme said:
An FYI. When these phones passed through the FCC I was such a geek that I actually read the transmitter testing. There is an affidavit in there about the BT and WiFI radios sharing an antenna and due to FCC restrictions that the two shall never transmit at the same time. All I can devise is they use a very fast radio switcher to ensure both can be on at once. That software that powers the transmitter transfer mechanism must be not optimized. Or worse, the hardware just really cant handle that. This is what happens when you have aluminum. Need to cram as much into antenna spots as possible. The I-phone 5 has the same setup but their software seems to handle it better. Hopefully this is fixed with a ROM release.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that was true you'd never be able to stream content over Wi-Fi (Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Spotify) and listen to it over BT. That's done all the time. Wi-Fi and BT both use the 2.4GHz frequency. Maybe the requirement you read applies to via separate antennas which may be why both share a single antenna. Aluminum and wireless signals don't mix. Asus had BT problems with the TF201 because they had to compensate for the aluminum back of the device by amping the Wi-Fi signal to the point it overpowered the weaker BT signal. Since turning off Wi-Fi improves BT performance (and range) something similar may be occurring on the One. With so few devices in people's hands it's too early to call.
Here's the LTE SGS3 for T-Mobile that just passed through the FCC compared to the One.
Hey I hear you and what your saying makes sense. The reality is a featured coding called time sharing. So due to an ultra fast buffering you are actually never transmitting both at once. That means this very well could be the culprit. Don't need to believe me. Check out the first letter from htc in the FCC registration. Clear as day.
jackdforme said:
Hey I hear you and what your saying makes sense. The reality is a featured coding called time sharing. So due to an ultra fast buffering you are actually never transmitting both at once. That means this very well could be the culprit. Don't need to believe me. Check out the first letter from htc in the FCC registration. Clear as day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's either the radio, h/w, s/w, or interference. The radio can be ruled out because the BCM4335 is specifically designed to reduce radio interference between competing signals. That leaves either something in the way the h/w is assembled, tuning of the radio drivers/settings or interference between the various radios caused by their output settings, antenna size/placement, or the aluminum body attenuating the signals. I guess time will tell which it is and whether or not it's a big deal to the majority of users.
The BCM4335 introduces the newest version of Broadcom's wireless coexistence technology. Handset makers can use this technology on 4G LTE cellular platforms to minimize the possibility of radio interference between Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and LTE, which operate in adjacent radio frequencies. Broadcom's Global Coexistence Interface supports the Bluetooth Special Interest Group's (SIG) LTE coexistence scheme and can be applied to future Broadcom LTE platforms, as well as 4G cellular platforms from other vendors.http://www.broadcom.com/products/Wireless-LAN/802.11-Wireless-LAN-Solutions/BCM4335
Anand described the antenna structure but I don’t really understand whether he’s saying the entire horizontal aluminum strips on the back above and below the line of injected plastic are the antennas or that the design allows the discrete antennas to be more effective.
The One uses the top and bottom aluminum strips for antennas, both of which are actively tuned to mitigate unintended attenuation from being held. There’s a plastic insulative strip in-between the two antennas and the main body. In spite of being aluminum, the One also includes NFC, whose active area surrounds the camera region.
But his comments don’t seem to jive with iFixit’s after their tear down. They seem to be implying the signals are transmitted through the plastic surround which makes sense but limits the transmission area.
The daughterboard remains, but there is still a mystery left unsolved. No phone operates without antennas, and antennas don't transmit signals well through metal walls. Considering that this daughterboard is on the receiving end of the motherboard's antenna cables and sits directly under the plastic bezel at the top of the phone, we're thinking it has something to do with wireless signals. See those three spring contacts along the top of the board? They meet the rear case in an area obscured by the plastic bezel. If we had to guess, that's where HTC put the antennas.
I would like to post the declaration from the FCC site. Its says it and the model of the bt/wifi radio in the device as registered although the part number looks like the phones part number with a few extra numbers. I truly hope this isn't one of those situations where some BT is unaffected because of the other end having better or newer processors. A la modern BMW's. The professional radio BT sucks it. Always drops even the best phone BT. So, if this phone has a nice antenna split tech and can be very fast at switching transmission times, but the other side cant keep up with the chop, we have a long term problem. I cant post the link because I am too new. Sorry.
Using sense 1.28.771.6, bluetooth/wifi work fine simultaneously.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
I tried today with WiFi off and must admit that this is the (temporary) solution. I am on stock with 1.28.401.7 and DO have issues with WiFi and BT being used simultaneously. Now I can at least use BT with my headset.