Database Develop

NEW FIX for screen separation issue! (tested & working by most members already)

originally made this in the original screen fix thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29363298&postcount=638
randroid123 said:
... I'll probably just forget about it. I'm glad that this fix is working for everyone though and I definitely think it deserves it's own thread for those that don't feel like digging through 75 pages of potential fixes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Making this, detailed step-by-step, for those who don't want to dig thru that thread (Hopefully I'm not violating any rules. If so, Mods please replace my original post with this one)
ok I think I've discover the cause of the lift.
Got a replacement due to screen lift and guess what the new one had a slight lift on the lower left.
I figure must be a loose screw, it's not as bad as the old one where the whole left side bulged out.
So I open it and found all the screws to be snug. So I unscrewed the lower left, thinking it's too tight and that's where I discover the cause.
It's not that the screws are too loose, it's that there isn't enough space between the frame & the glass. So the tighter you screw it in, the further you're pushing the screen out, causing the lift.
Here's the simple solution I came up with.
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You'll need the following:
Nexus 7 with back cover removed
Pill Blister Pack (Allergy pills from walmart shown)
Small screwdrivers
Scissors and/or knife
Sewing Needle (not pictured)
needle nose pliers OPTIONAL (for those with thick fingers)
First you need to make a hole in the blister for the screw to go thru.
Here I'm using a sewing machine like a drill press to create my hole.
Next, cut out a rectangle and use your small screwdriver (Bigger than the needle, but smaller than the screw)
This will make the hole bigger for the screw to fit. While blister is still on screwdriver, use your knife and run it around the excess plastic created by the screwdriver.
Remove the blister and trim the corners so that it'll fit in the round frame
Remove the screw from the frame and slide the blister in between the frame
Screw the screw back snug, DON'T OVER TORQUE IT!
Right away the screen lift is gone where the blister is installed. Repeat for each screw where the screen is lifting up.
Cut away the excess so you can put the cover back on
Don't cut it flush to the frame, leave a little so you can grab it and remove it if you need to.
OPTIONAL - use a flathead to push that little bit down to eliminate any chance of obstructing the back cover.
Snap the back cover back on and enjoy your flush screen.
depending on how much lift you have, you might have to use 2 or more to fill the gap. But beware, the more you add the thicker the frame will be and you might run into issues with the back cover not fitting snug.

Looks interesting, might give this a whirl later.

ya!
After receiving my replacement today only to find out it had the same problem I tried this and so far so good! I hope it stays! Thank you for this!

Awesome job :good:
Update: Failed. Spent Hour trying this. Keeps coming back just putting the case back on. Ill try again on Monday. Used same thickness plastic, then tried thinner, then tried IDE Floppy Cable (ASUS brand haha).
I am sending this back anyways. Here is my before: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jDIgiWFPgc
_________________________________________
Tried it with 1 on top. 2 on top. 2 on bottom (Pictured below). All 4.

I'll confirm this is still working 24 hours later and feels more solid than it did when I first took It out of the box. Thank you so much! I started the RMA process and received the links to order my replacement when I read they hold another $225 from your account until they receive the original back and determine I caused no damage. You saved me a lot of time/hassle/and money being held from me for at least 1-2 weeks.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

Yes thank you man, I tried it when you first posted it yesterday, I can vouch for the fix in this thread as i did the previous one, so happy that it is working for me and several others, it is well worth the 10-20 minutes to perform the fix.

I wish this would work on mine, but my problem is clearly related to a bad adhesive job. I'm almost tempted to re-glue it myself considering there is nothing else wrong with the thing but I'll give Google one more chance to send me a perfect one.

How about a donation link? I'd like to buy you a beer or 2 for your fix.

Wonderful job with the pictures man, they really helped. I can confirm that this works perfect for me too. I just did not but the tablet immediately feels better. No squishyness at all. With the previous fix (tightening the screws) the screen still felt squishy. Nothing now. It feels just as sturdy as the right hand side.
Sent from my Nexus 7

_MetalHead_ said:
I wish this would work on mine, but my problem is clearly related to a bad adhesive job. I'm almost tempted to re-glue it myself considering there is nothing else wrong with the thing but I'll give Google one more chance to send me a perfect one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I initially thought mine may have been adhesive related.. but turns out after this fix, it really is not.
Edit: id highly suggest giving this a try, it isnt difficult, probably cannot be detected as "user modification" if you remove the makeshift washers. If you dont want to that's your call, but i think the problem is still fixable with this method.

acroanidd said:
I initially thought mine may have been adhesive related.. but turns out after this fix, it really is not.
Edit: id highly suggest giving this a try, it isnt difficult, probably cannot be detected as "user modification" if you remove the makeshift washers. If you dont want to that's your call, but i think the problem is still fixable with this method.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dunno man, I can actually see underneath the glass on mine, that's how bad it is. I might give this a shot while I'm waiting for my replacement but I really don't expect it to do any good. I am happy for everybody who is finding success with this, just don't see myself being one of those lucky people.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium

_MetalHead_ said:
I dunno man, I can actually see underneath the glass on mine, that's how bad it is. I might give this a shot while I'm waiting for my replacement but I really don't expect it to do any good. I am happy for everybody who is finding success with this, just don't see myself being one of those lucky people.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really would give this a shot...I'm convinced the issue is not adhesive related. My tab doesn't actually have a screen lift issue... it has been making a crunching sound that i discovered is actually just the black tape/insulation that the little black foam piece is glued to. If you remove the back cover and just fiddle with that black insulation you should hear the crunching i described. I am 90% sure that the crunching sound people are reporting is really not going to affect your devices integrity at all. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on that one.

So far so good. Let's see whether it stays that way or not. The left side feel solid now
Thanks for the fix and the photos.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

I just opened up my buddy's N7 with him, and check this out. It looks like the N7 already has some type of circular washers in this spot. OP, and those of you who have done this - did your N7s have these circular washers as well, or was that space totally hollow? I couldn't tell from your pictures. I've attached pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. It doesn't look like there's room in here to add the blister pack washers you guys are talking about, unless I really have to struggle to shove them in. Is it possible some N7s were missing these washers?

nyijedi said:
I just opened up my buddy's N7 with him, and check this out. It looks like the N7 already has some type of circular washers in this spot. OP, and those of you who have done this - did your N7s have these circular washers as well, or was that space totally hollow? I couldn't tell from your pictures. I've attached pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. It doesn't look like there's room in here to add the blister pack washers you guys are talking about, unless I really have to struggle to shove them in. Is it possible some N7s were missing these washers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, those were there on all of them. Those do not come out as far as i can tell. The blister washer goes in between the black round part and the back plate where the screw enters. Its snug but it should be, this will allow you to snug up the screws and alleviate the pressure on the screen. People seem to forget that only adhesive would not cause glass to bend, it would just sit loose but not protrude upward without a force behind it.

I just did what op did and everything is working fine. Fantastic work!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

You, sir, are brilliant. I just did the fix and it seems to be holding well. I'll see how it is tomorrow but the logic behind it seems solid.
Thank you for sharing!

Performed the fix, and it seems to have fixed the problem on my friend's N7. The OP is smarter than stinking Asus! Bravo.
One minor issue on the N7 I did this on is the back doesn't seem to be completely flush with the bezel now in the area with the washers, but this beats the screen lifting.

Have people allowed enough time after performing this and rechecked their screens? Everyone was saying retorquing the screws was the fix, and it initially looked like it did help, but eventually the screen came back up.

Thanks for the fix, but to be honest all this seems to be ridiculous, there should be no defect in a product you had to pay good money for. I'm hoping a fix comes soon out of the box.

FIX for screen separation using GLUE

For those of you who have tried the various fixes on this forum and are having no luck with the screen lift issue, then this fix may be for you. I believe the screen lifting from the frame is caused by something internal that is pushing the screen upwards and causing the adhesive failure. This fix will use glue to re-establish the bond between the screen and the frame.
This fix involves taking the back cover off and removing some screws and creating a gap between the frame and screen for the glue. Oh, and while the glue cures, you will not be able to use your device for at least a few hours depending on the glue you use.
If this is too much for you or if you are addicted to your device and cannot put it down to let the glue cure, there is an alternate glue fix that is faster, does not require any disassembly, but it uses super-glue - which dries too fast for my liking. The post is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422 - Thanks to acegolfer for this.
*** DISCLAIMER ***
I'm not responsible if you break your device doing this fix.
Tools required
1. Guitar pick - or something flat to remove back cover
2. Small phillips head screwdriver
3. Toothpick
4. Glue
5. Damp cloth/ cloth - to wipe excess glue
6. Needle or tack - to apply glue.
7. Rubber bands, eraser, book - anything to keep screen in place and frame against the screen.
First things first. the glue I used is not super-glue, it is epoxy. Why? Because I've had much success using it, but not much luck with super-glue. See pic of the epoxy I used.
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Since most of us have screen lift on the left side, these instructions assume the fix will be on that side.
Steps:
1. Turn off N7 and take back cover off
2. Remove the 4 screws on the left side.
3. Take the toothpick and cut it in half. It should now look like this:
4. Now flip the N7 over. Using the guitar pick (or the tool you used to take back cover off). CAREFULLY insert between the frame and screen to create an initial gap. then take one side of the toothpick and insert it to one side of the guitar pick. then take the other side of the toothpick and insert it to the other side of the guitar pick. take guitar pick out, it should now look like this:
5. Open up the glue. Squeeze a pea size amount onto a disposable piece of hard plastic. Even though the one I bought is self-mixing, I mixed it again using the tack, then used the damp cloth to clean off the tack.
6. Take the tack and dip it into the glue. The tack should now have some glue on the tip. CAREFULLY place glue in the gap you created in step 4. You do not need to fill it up, just a small amount. You can either place the glue continuously or spaced out at even points. I chose to put glue at evenly spaced out points approx 1/4" apart. Alternatively, the glue came with a fine tipped applicator (see pic), so you could have applied the glue directly into the gap, but that could be messy.
7. When the glue has been applied, remove the toothpicks and close the gap. Some glue will be squeezed out so wipe it off with the damp cloth. Flip N7 over and put the screws back.
8. take rubber bands and place them evenly spaced around the N7 to keep frame against the glass. then put an eraser on the screen to keep screen flush with frame. LEAVE THE BACK COVER OFF. You do not want anything that could possibly push the screen up at this point.
9. After putting screws back and applying rubber bands, double-check to see that there is no gap and the screen is flush with frame (similar to the right side).
10. I placed a phone book on top which I did not include in the picture.
11. If everything looks fine, let sit for at least 2 hours before touching it. If you used the same epoxy glue I did, I would not turn it on for at least 10 hours. I also did not put the back cover on until the 10 hour mark.
Final result.
I did this about 2 days ago. Since then, I've tested it by running some tegra 3 optimized games like Zen pinball and riptide until the rear lower left of the N7 felt quite warm. I know that when I performed the shim fix and the screw tightening, the screen would have lifted at this point - but it didn't with this glue fix. In fact, after gluing the frame to the screen, it feels more solid because there is no longer any sponginess when holding with my left hand and absolutely no creaks. Also, it feels good to see that after you've punished the tegra 3 chipset, the heat generated didn't cause the screen to lift.
Hope this helps some of you. If you feel that I missed something or have some suggestions, please let me know.
Cheers.

Thanks for both trying and posting this. You don't say at which point you replaced the screws? I'm guessing it was when the glue had dried?

I just did the following:
Started transformers playing [was plugged in to power]
Set it on repeat..
waited about 30 mins - so it got a little warm..
Used the same rubber band / eraser trick you did..[without removing the back case] to hold the edge of the screen down.
Waited about 4 hours - film on repeat
Unplugged, turned it off and left it over night [about 12 hours]
Screen has held down for the past week - so sign of lifting.
So maybe worth trying before you go for the glue - and 100% non warranty issues

I think you've hit the nail on the head here.
Looking at THIS teardown it seems clear that the screws play no part in how the display sits within the silver/black frame. The screws hold the internals to the frame and the display is glued to the frame. If the display is raised, then it's the adhesive not working. If you can push it to be flush, then its obviously not the screws pushing it out.
Looks like this is the only real permanent solution. I only wish there was a way to do this without actually bending the display up like that. My luck says I'd crack it! >.<

eager27 said:
Thanks for both trying and posting this. You don't say at which point you replaced the screws? I'm guessing it was when the glue had dried?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That should have been part of step 7. Edited. Thanks for noticing my error.

The fix looks great, no screen lift and no sideways bulge. Can I ask what sizes are those rubber bands you used?

jtc42 said:
I think you've hit the nail on the head here.
Looking at THIS teardown it seems clear that the screws play no part in how the display sits within the silver/black frame. The screws hold the internals to the frame and the display is glued to the frame. If the display is raised, then it's the adhesive not working. If you can push it to be flush, then its obviously not the screws pushing it out.
Looks like this is the only real permanent solution. I only wish there was a way to do this without actually bending the display up like that. My luck says I'd crack it! >.<
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try the alternate glue fix with super-glue by acegolfer:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422

Summerfly said:
The fix looks great, no screen lift and no sideways bulge. Can I ask what sizes are those rubber bands you used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know exactly. I just had a jar of rubber bands and I chose ones that I thought would apply enough pressure to the frame to keep it from separating from the screen.

ckl_88 said:
try the alternate glue fix with super-glue by acegolfer:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah that looks safer. Though I'll maybe wait for a bit until I'm less bothered about it being in perfect condition. My Xperia Arc had the famous casing crack and I decided to just glue it and got the glue everywhere and it'd dried before I got to wipe it off. I'm clearly still as skilled as a small child with glue. Not too bad but certainly not as shiny now >.<

jtc42 said:
Ah that looks safer. Though I'll maybe wait for a bit until I'm less bothered about it being in perfect condition. My Xperia Arc had the famous casing crack and I decided to just glue it and got the glue everywhere and it'd dried before I got to wipe it off. I'm clearly still as skilled as a small child with glue. Not too bad but certainly not as shiny now >.<
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm like you with the glue - that's why I used a type that takes minutes to set instead of just 30-60 seconds. It just dries too fast sometimes. You could probably try the epoxy instead of the crazy glue.

ckl_88 said:
I'm like you with the glue - that's why I used a type that takes minutes to set instead of just 30-60 seconds. It just dries too fast sometimes. You could probably try the epoxy instead of the crazy glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely calling superglue 'crazy glue' from now on. I'll have to look around and find the strongest slow-drying glue available. Waiting around for another hot day though as that's the only time it raises enough to glue it, and given that I'm in the UK this could take some time.

padding my screws with the pill packaging seem to fix it for me even though mine was rather small lift. if anything continues or i see more lift i will definitely try this. good looks on the DIY

This is probably the most direct and effective way to solve the lifting screen problem.
I used 3M Scotch glue to stick the screen tight on the bezel.
The gap was really small so I used a IV catheter to drip to glue into the gap. (Yes, I work in a hospital)
After 24 hours, I tested every possible way to make the screen lift but it remained solid and beautiful.
For those who still have screen lifting or side bulging problem, just try this solution. There's no way it would fail.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

No real screen lift for me, just the crazy sounds when pressing the left side of the screen. Depending on the type of fix sometimes the right side would make sounds also. After trying three separate fixes and all failing once the N7 heats up this is the one thing that really seems to have fixed the issue. Thank you!!!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

thanks for posting this guide. I have tried all the other fixes on this board but this is the only one that worked for me.

abitzsong said:
This is probably the most direct and effective way to solve the lifting screen problem.
I used 3M Scotch glue to stick the screen tight on the bezel.
The gap was really small so I used a IV catheter to drip to glue into the gap. (Yes, I work in a hospital)
After 24 hours, I tested every possible way to make the screen lift but it remained solid and beautiful.
For those who still have screen lifting or side bulging problem, just try this solution. There's no way it would fail.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any screen mushiness or waves when you pressed near where your screen lift issue was? And if so, did applying this fix help at all?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

I think this worked for me. Except I didn't read about using toothpicks as spacers. I just found a really pointy toothpick and dipped the tip in superglue then dabbed the edge of the raised screen. Then pushed it in place and held for several minutes. I don't know if it'll hold or if its even doing anything. I'll have to see in the morning. Next time I'll spread the side bevel out using the guitar picks and toothpicks.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

Just did the glue fix and got a little on the trim, it dried so fast I couldn't get it off. So while I rubbed it with too gone and scratched with my finger nail I thing the paint began to come off. Is it possible to take the tablet that far apart to paint the bezel or is it part of the screen?
Maybe I'll just rub all the silver off!! Lol
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

glue
Okay I tried a bunch of suggestions before glueing like tightening and loosening the screws as well as taking off the little square of black foam. Unfortunately, none of these methods permenently resolved the lifting screen problem. Then I tried the glue method. I loosened up the 4 screws on the left side and I seperated the screen slightly from the bezel with a few toothpicks. To make sure everything was nice and clean I used 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the mating surfaces. At this point something interesting happened. When I took out the toothpicks and pressed things back together the reactivated glue stuck the glass back on. However, I didn't want to take any chances so I put a little more alcohol on the seam and spread things apart so that I could use some 5 minute epoxy to make things more permanent. After I applied the glue I put the back on and pressed everthing together with some rubberbands and a foam pad. Any glue that oozed out was immediately cleaned off with a cloth and alcohol. Then I left it alone overnight to set fully, and things are looking good so far.

Kuchar09 said:
Just did the glue fix and got a little on the trim, it dried so fast I couldn't get it off. So while I rubbed it with too gone and scratched with my finger nail I thing the paint began to come off. Is it possible to take the tablet that far apart to paint the bezel or is it part of the screen?
Maybe I'll just rub all the silver off!! Lol
View attachment 1255430
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could touch it up with some silver paint.

Final fix for Nexus 7 screen lift/seperation derived from other fix

Hi,
First of all my sincere apologies if this is dupe (Please delete this thread mods if dupe). I guess I found the 101% fix for screen separation, so I decided to share it with others
1. Empty your phone battery to 1-2 % , switch it off, once done go to the next step
2. Follow this thread (NEW FIX for screen separation issue) and do what @dilldoe said. (Note: This alone might fix but some guyz reporting screen lift comes back, same as in mine case, screen lift came back at first )
3. Now wrap your nexus 7 in some cloth (not very thick), apply clips where the screen lift is , then put it in charging. Leave it for 12-14 hours.
Now you can check your screen lift problem is gone I'd say . Above method fixed mine also and it's been more than 3 days it didn't come back.

Beamon said:
Hi,
First of all my sincere apologies if this is dupe (Please delete this thread mods if dupe). I guess I found the 101% fix for screen separation, so I decided to share it with others
1. Empty your phone battery to 1-2 % , switch it off, once done go to the next step
2. Follow this thread (NEW FIX for screen separation issue) and do what @dilldoe said. (Note: This alone might fix but some guyz reporting screen lift comes back, same as in mine case, screen lift came back at first )
3. Now wrap your nexus 7 in some cloth (not very thick), apply clips where the screen lift is , then put it in charging. Leave it for 12-14 hours.
Now you can check your screen lift problem is gone I'd say . Above method fixed mine also and it's been more than 3 days it didn't come back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just wanted to ask if it ever came back.. please get back to me. All what specific "tools" did you use?

Another Fix for the Nexus 7 screen lift issue
I've found a new fix for the screen lift issue that worked for me; I never post on these things, but this has been bugging me so much that I though I should share this with others who have had to contend with this issue. Please do not hold me responsible if you take these somewhat "drastic" measures and they don't work for you in the same way they did for me. Also note that this procedure will certainly void your warranty, so proceed at your own risk.
I am on my third N7, so I simply examined the device myself and went through with what I thought was necessary to fix it. My first two N7s had the screen flicker issue and all of them had the screen lift. This third device didn't have the flicker issue, but the screen lift was the worst on this one than my previous two; it was the only one that not only had a perceptible lift above the bezel, but was also very squishy and made a clicking or shifting sound when I pressed it. This became particularly annoying every time I tapped the home button in portrait.
I have also tried a lot of the common fixes online: tightened all the screws, loosened the ones on the left side a bit, made the washers as suggested on this thread, etc. What I found when I took the back off, however, was that I could easily run my guitar pick (which I used to pry off the back) along the groove on the *right* side, but could not do the same on the left problem side. Aside from the four-pin connector and a part in the middle, each screw appears to have a three ridged "grate" as part of the inside mould which doesn't allow a deep groove along the entire left side like it does on the right side. Also, the back cover has a number of ridges sticking out (likely to block out dust, etc.) in addition to the clips that hold the back cover in place. In my thinking, then, I thought that perhaps those ridges on the back cover were pushing down on the elevated portions inside the N7, thereby pushing out the screen on the left side along with it. It would make sense, since there is such a deep groove on the right side to accommodate the right-side ridges on the back cover, which isn't the case for the left side. It seemed, therefore, that there was a flaw in the design of the shape of the mould for the back cover.
So, since this was my third device, and I simply didn't care what the results would be out of frustration, I ever-so-carefully trimmed or scraped off any ridge that wasn't a clip along the left side with a jack knife. Then, (and I don't know if this was necessary), I watched a video to heat up the N7 and placed a stack of books on it over night (ensuring that the bottom book was aligned with the screen inside the bezel).
Now, I have tried many adjustments, and after each of the probably 50-ish times I've carried out these various methods, the screen popped back up after only about 15 minutes of use. It's now been about a week of fairly heavy use, and the screen is still below the bezel where it belongs.
There are three additional points: first, this methods was implemented in conjunction with the aforementioned book-stacking and the washer method. I don't know how much the book-stacking played a part, but the washers by themselves did nothing for me (I just haven't removed them b/c I didn't want to risk messing with a good thing). Second, because I removed all those ridges on the back cover, there is a barely perceptible gap between the silver bezel and back cover. In my opinion, it is not enough to let dust in, and it is certainly much, much, MUCH more preferable to the screen lift. Third, this method isn't perfect; there is still the slightest of slightest lift in one place (more near the bottom, in portrait), but it is enormously better than it was before.
I've included a few images that show the "grates" by the screws and elevated portions that the ridges on the back cover were pushing down on, the trimmed or scraped-off sections on the back cover where the ridges used to be and used to push down on these elevated portions inside the N7, the end results that show the screen below the bezel from two perspectives, and the size of the "gap" between the silver bezel and back cover after the procedure.
I truly hope this helps everyone relieve some frustration.
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Inside "grates" by screws aren't deep enough to accommodate ridges on the back cover.
another elevated portion
groove isn't deep enough
Trimmed-off ridges on the back cover
results
results from the other side -- silver is visible
picture of the widest portion of the resulting nearly imperceptible gap between the bezel and back cover

your pictures arent working but i believe you are right. when i have the back cover off there is no screen lift whatsoever...you might have solved it yo
i want to see your pictures before i do it to my nexus though.

So I've been considering the N7 for a few months now because of the awesome price point it's at and I was wondering how common an issue this is. Is screen lift present in most of these devices or is it just the luck of the draw? Also, do the devices start that way or after some use does the issue rear its ugly head? Any advice before my purchase would be helpful! Thanks

It's present on every nexus 7 I've seen....so about 5 of them including my local Sam's club display model. That doesn't mean it's common but that is my experience.

I'm on my 8th N7 and its has a small amount of lift (0.5mm), its a C90. It used to be worse (1.5-2.5mm) until I slackened all the screws quarter turn on the raised side.
I just live with it now. If you don't look at it it's not there! Its going on eBay soon ready for the 32GB model.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

I don't think my device has any screen lift, I did the squeeze test and didnt notice any movement or squeeking.
How can I tell if I have screen lift?

If you have it, it is hard to miss, the glass goes above the silver bezel on the left side. Mine was okay in he first few weeks, then the lift appeared. Nothing but glue worked for me and glue worked very well.
Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X using magic powers

siddesu said:
If you have it, it is hard to miss, the glass goes above the silver bezel on the left side. Mine was okay in he first few weeks, then the lift appeared. Nothing but glue worked for me and glue worked very well.
Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X using magic powers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you do it? I thought about the same but I'm not sure if it will work or how it will look like in case the glue might be visible under the glass. Thanks

[Review] Toast (toastmade.com) Nexus 5X Real Wooden Skin Review

TOAST
Note: all pictures are hidden inside spoiler tags. Pictures are not downsized. All pictures and videos were shot on my old Galaxy S6. Videos will be 1080p 60fps (installation) and 4K (end result).
A little bit of a personal background on me first. I am a repair tech for a Houston-based phone/tablet/computer repair shop. I have been doing this for over two years, and I have seen and fixed just about everything imaginable. Phones with cases, skins, and screen protectors, and those without. Tablets with cases, skins, screen protectors, etc. You get the idea. I know exactly what kind of protection every type of material can provide, be it TPU, polycarbonate, silicon, and others.
Let me start off by saying that I have never encountered actual real wood in a protective or decorative scene before. Faux wood, sure. But not real wood (not counting the wooden backs on the Moto X here, since they're part of the actual device). I hadn't even heard of Toast before this first post here almost two weeks back. Let me tell you, the second I found my way to their homepage, I was captivated. I had never thought something like this would even exist. It's brilliant. I spent the next two hours watching every YouTube video I could that showed off these "skins". I use the word skin lightly, here. This is the only skin that I would say provides real protection. But I'll touch on that later.
I received a full set of a style of my choice with the option of a design. I decided on Walnut with no design. I figured most people would choose it this way, and personally I find it the most attractive.
First, the packaging. The skin is shipped via USPS first class, inside a small and nigh-indestructible cardboard box. Not cheap UPS-style cardboard, but that solid white American ****. You can see for yourself below. Everything was snuggled neatly inside paper gift wrapping. I had a shipping confirmation on 11/12, and it got to my apartment on 11/16.
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I'm waiting on the videos I took of the skin installation to upload and process on YouTube, and I'll embed that below as soon as I have it ready. I need to cut out a lot of wasted time and replace the audio, but I'll have it ready in a few days I hope. By the end of the weekend, worse case.
*edit, 11/21/2015*
Here's the installation video:
But, words will have to do for now. I started by installing the back. It was very easy to simply line up the camera, fingerprint scanner, LED flash, and laser focus. The corners, sides, and camera folds all folded up/down nicely. Next I installed the right side with the buttons. That was also as simple as the back, just line up the buttons and you're good to go. After that I did the top, then left, then bottom. Things were going smoothly until the bottom. The part that goes over/around the 3.5mm headphone jack and microphone, at least for my set, seem to be shifted 1 mm too far to the left (towards the USB C port). I'm not sure if the laser cutter became misaligned or what happened there. It's not a fatal flaw, the microphone hole and 3.5mm jack are still totally open and accessible, they're just shifted a little bit. They didn't square up perfectly with the back and the right piece. You'll see what I mean with the pictures below. Finally, we have the buttons and camera cover. You'll be able to see how those are packed once the video is ready. Again with these, there may have been an issue with the laser cutter. The longest sides of the power and volume buttons, along with the sim tray, were cut properly, whereas the short sides were only cut with the laser through what appeared to be most of the wood. You'll see this in the video as well, but I had to take a razor blade to these parts to separate them from the packaging. The buttons all turned out fine, but if you don't have anything tiny and sharp around, you would likely break the buttons. The camera cutout did not suffer from this problem.
Here now are some HD pictures of the finished installation. I was sent a front cover along with the back and sides, but I decided to keep my tempered glass screen protector installed on top and not the wooden skin. It is definitely possible to install the skin on top of the tempered glass, but that would raise it a far amount off of the phone. To me, it wouldn't look as good like that. If I had a thin film protector, I would go ahead and install the skin on that, but I would not install it on tempered glass. Just my two cents there.
Now, for my thoughts after the installation. The feel of real wood is much better than polycarbonate. You can immediately feel the change in grip. The texture of everything looks and feel perfect, just like real stained walnut. Hell, it even smells like it. I'm going to get weird looks from people seeing me smelling my phone now. Points off for that (kidding). The way the back bevels itself into the sides make it a little more comfortable, too. The buttons are pretty tactile, just about as much as without the skin. My volume buttons seem to be a little mushier, but that's probably because I cut it out of the packaging myself. I will say though that since even 12 hours later, the buttons feel a little better, so we'll see how that plays out. The power button is just as clicky as ever. I really like how the skin raises above the tip of the camera lens, I have always hated (hate is such a strong word) putting my phone back-down on rough surfaces because of it. The opening for the USB C port is plenty big, and should fit even the largest chargers (I'm looking at you, cheap cables).
And finally, my thoughts on protection. By no means is this an Otterbox replacement. Time will tell if this can substitute thing cases like the Spigen Thin Fit (which I was previously using). Without a doubt though, this skin can provide minimal basic protection. Since it is actually real wood, I can see it providing some impact protection on the corners. The wood should cave in first before it starts to put too much stress on the housing. Now, don't expect it to save you if you drop it onto tile or concrete from 3 or 5 feet up. But I can see it providing decent if not good protection from a small drop, like slipping out of your pocket when sitting down.
Finished results video:
Do you like wood? Damn right you like wood. Do you not want a case, even though you've used one for years despite the fact you have never dropped or broken a phone? Buy. Buy buy buy. It's going on all of my future devices.

I just got mine as well and will add my $.02 to your excellent review.
I also had a slight misalignment for one of the wrap pieces but mine occurred between the top and the left side. It's about a 1 mm gap so not really that noticeable, but will be curious to see if it snags pockets over time and pulls away. It also took a very bright light (and for a 48 year old reading glasses) to make sure the top microphone holes aligned. My only other installation issue was even with using a blade to help cut out the small cover punchouts, the sim card cover broke above the removal hole since it is such a thin piece there. If they could fully cut around those pieces with their lasers so they came off with the adhesive backing that would make it much easier and less likely to break. I've also noticed a slight lifting on a couple of the backs corner wrap pieces, once again it will be worth seeing if they become a snag hazard and potentially get pulled away. But overall installation was easier then most screen protectors I've put on.
Post install, a couple of items to note. I came off an Adopted case so this skin is definitely much slicker. It does feel when I'm retrieving it from my car mount or grabbing it quickly off my desk that it might slip out of my hand and given the minimum protection hitting the pavement may not survive (thank goodness for Google insurance The other issue I've had post-install is getting my headphones to seat well in the 3.5 mm jack. As noted in other threads, you need them in pretty tight to get connections and the first time I put mine in (I use the Bose QuietComforts) they didn't seat right and I had to really push on them to get them to connect. We'll see if things shift a little over time and it gets easier.
That all said, I'm very happy with the overall look and would definitely buy one again.

dpwhitty11 said:
TOAST
Note: all pictures are hidden inside spoiler tags. Pictures are not downsized. All pictures and videos were shot on my old Galaxy S6. Videos will be 1080p 60fps (installation) and 4K (end result).
A little bit of a personal background on me first. I am a repair tech for a Houston-based phone/tablet/computer repair shop. I have been doing this for over two years, and I have seen and fixed just about everything imaginable. Phones with cases, skins, and screen protectors, and those without. Tablets with cases, skins, screen protectors, etc. You get the idea. I know exactly what kind of protection every type of material can provide, be it TPU, polycarbonate, silicon, and others.
Let me start off by saying that I have never encountered actual real wood in a protective or decorative scene before. Faux wood, sure. But not real wood (not counting the wooden backs on the Moto X here, since they're part of the actual device). I hadn't even heard of Toast before this first post here almost two weeks back. Let me tell you, the second I found my way to their homepage, I was captivated. I had never thought something like this would even exist. It's brilliant. I spent the next two hours watching every YouTube video I could that showed off these "skins". I use the word skin lightly, here. This is the only skin that I would say provides real protection. But I'll touch on that later.
I received a full set of a style of my choice with the option of a design. I decided on Walnut with no design. I figured most people would choose it this way, and personally I find it the most attractive.
First, the packaging. The skin is shipped via USPS first class, inside a small and nigh-indestructible cardboard box. Not cheap UPS-style cardboard, but that solid white American ****. You can see for yourself below. Everything was snuggled neatly inside paper gift wrapping. I had a shipping confirmation on 11/12, and it got to my apartment on 11/16.
I'm waiting on the videos I took of the skin installation to upload and process on YouTube, and I'll embed that below as soon as I have it ready. I need to cut out a lot of wasted time and replace the audio, but I'll have it ready in a few days I hope. By the end of the weekend, worse case.
But, words will have to do for now. I started by installing the back. It was very easy to simply line up the camera, fingerprint scanner, LED flash, and laser focus. The corners, sides, and camera folds all folded up/down nicely. Next I installed the right side with the buttons. That was also as simple as the back, just line up the buttons and you're good to go. After that I did the top, then left, then bottom. Things were going smoothly until the bottom. The part that goes over/around the 3.5mm headphone jack and microphone, at least for my set, seem to be shifted 1 mm too far to the left (towards the USB C port). I'm not sure if the laser cutter became misaligned or what happened there. It's not a fatal flaw, the microphone hole and 3.5mm jack are still totally open and accessible, they're just shifted a little bit. They didn't square up perfectly with the back and the right piece. You'll see what I mean with the pictures below. Finally, we have the buttons and camera cover. You'll be able to see how those are packed once the video is ready. Again with these, there may have been an issue with the laser cutter. The longest sides of the power and volume buttons, along with the sim tray, were cut properly, whereas the short sides were only cut with the laser through what appeared to be most of the wood. You'll see this in the video as well, but I had to take a razor blade to these parts to separate them from the packaging. The buttons all turned out fine, but if you don't have anything tiny and sharp around, you would likely break the buttons. The camera cutout did not suffer from this problem.
Here now are some HD pictures of the finished installation. I was sent a front cover along with the back and sides, but I decided to keep my tempered glass screen protector installed on top and not the wooden skin. It is definitely possible to install the skin on top of the tempered glass, but that would raise it a far amount off of the phone. To me, it wouldn't look as good like that. If I had a thin film protector, I would go ahead and install the skin on that, but I would not install it on tempered glass. Just my two cents there.
Now, for my thoughts after the installation. The feel of real wood is much better than polycarbonate. You can immediately feel the change in grip. The texture of everything looks and feel perfect, just like real stained walnut. Hell, it even smells like it. I'm going to get weird looks from people seeing me smelling my phone now. Points off for that (kidding). The way the back bevels itself into the sides make it a little more comfortable, too. The buttons are pretty tactile, just about as much as without the skin. My volume buttons seem to be a little mushier, but that's probably because I cut it out of the packaging myself. I will say though that since even 12 hours later, the buttons feel a little better, so we'll see how that plays out. The power button is just as clicky as ever. I really like how the skin raises above the tip of the camera lens, I have always hated (hate is such a strong word) putting my phone back-down on rough surfaces because of it. The opening for the USB C port is plenty big, and should fit even the largest chargers (I'm looking at you, cheap cables).
And finally, my thoughts on protection. By no means is this an Otterbox replacement. Time will tell if this can substitute thing cases like the Spigen Thin Fit (which I was previously using). Without a doubt though, this skin can provide minimal basic protection. Since it is actually real wood, I can see it providing some impact protection on the corners. The wood should cave in first before it starts to put too much stress on the housing. Now, don't expect it to save you if you drop it onto tile or concrete from 3 or 5 feet up. But I can see it providing decent if not good protection from a small drop, like slipping out of your pocket when sitting down.
Do you like wood? Damn right you like wood. Do you not want a case, even though you've used one for years despite the fact you have never dropped or broken a phone? Buy. Buy buy buy. It's going on all of my future devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the in-depth review, and sorry to hear of the alignment issue! Looking at the picture #2 of the Toasted 5X, it appears that that side wrap is a little low. I suggest (and thought it was mentioned in the instructions) using the scorelines of the actual back cover to align the sides. The ports may not be perfectly centered within the cutouts, but they should all be fully functional. We have a "butterfingers" replacement policy on everything, so if you'd like another set of wraps, just shoot an email to [email protected] referencing your order.
In regards to the sim/button covers, it's best to peel the paper off and then push them through the little slots. Those guys can be tricky to get the laser to cut all the way through, but our QA should have caught them in the production process. We'll gladly send replacements any time!
Thanks again, and enjoy your Toasted 5X!
---------- Post added at 11:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:19 PM ----------
rgerrans said:
I just got mine as well and will add my $.02 to your excellent review.
I also had a slight misalignment for one of the wrap pieces but mine occurred between the top and the left side. It's about a 1 mm gap so not really that noticeable, but will be curious to see if it snags pockets over time and pulls away. It also took a very bright light (and for a 48 year old reading glasses) to make sure the top microphone holes aligned. My only other installation issue was even with using a blade to help cut out the small cover punchouts, the sim card cover broke above the removal hole since it is such a thin piece there. If they could fully cut around those pieces with their lasers so they came off with the adhesive backing that would make it much easier and less likely to break. I've also noticed a slight lifting on a couple of the backs corner wrap pieces, once again it will be worth seeing if they become a snag hazard and potentially get pulled away. But overall installation was easier then most screen protectors I've put on.
Post install, a couple of items to note. I came off an Adopted case so this skin is definitely much slicker. It does feel when I'm retrieving it from my car mount or grabbing it quickly off my desk that it might slip out of my hand and given the minimum protection hitting the pavement may not survive (thank goodness for Google insurance The other issue I've had post-install is getting my headphones to seat well in the 3.5 mm jack. As noted in other threads, you need them in pretty tight to get connections and the first time I put mine in (I use the Bose QuietComforts) they didn't seat right and I had to really push on them to get them to connect. We'll see if things shift a little over time and it gets easier.
That all said, I'm very happy with the overall look and would definitely buy one again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the feedback! As I'd told OP, in his second picture of the Toast 5X, it appears that his side wrap is a little low. I suggest (and thought it was mentioned in the instructions) using the scorelines of the actual back cover to align the sides. The ports may not be perfectly centered within the cutouts, but they should all be fully functional.
With the sim/button covers, it's best to peel the paper off and then push them through the little slots. Those guys can be tricky to get the laser to cut all the way through, but our QA should have caught them in the production process. We'll gladly send replacements any time. We even have a "butterfingers" replacement policy on the actual covers; just send a picture of the misaligned cover and we send a replacement. Please shoot an email to [email protected] referencing your order and we'll send another set of buttons, as well as wraps, if necessary.
Thanks again, and enjoy your Toasted 5X!

Looks really nice but it's a shame that they don't have mahogany, dark reddish wood alá art deco..

So I had one of these toast covers a few years ago on my Nexus 5. Sure they're ok for the feel and all but the adhesive they use picks up a lot of lint from pockets, general dust etc.
If not for that, I may consider them again.

LAURCORE said:
Thank you so much for the feedback! As I'd told OP, in his second picture of the Toast 5X, it appears that his side wrap is a little low. I suggest (and thought it was mentioned in the instructions) using the scorelines of the actual back cover to align the sides. The ports may not be perfectly centered within the cutouts, but they should all be fully functional.
With the sim/button covers, it's best to peel the paper off and then push them through the little slots. Those guys can be tricky to get the laser to cut all the way through, but our QA should have caught them in the production process. We'll gladly send replacements any time. We even have a "butterfingers" replacement policy on the actual covers; just send a picture of the misaligned cover and we send a replacement. Please shoot an email to [email protected] referencing your order and we'll send another set of buttons, as well as wraps, if necessary.
Thanks again, and enjoy your Toasted 5X!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the alignment, it's tight on the power button side, just 1 mm short of full wrap and/or the sim card side is just short of coming up high enough. Thanks for the offer on the replacement but it's such a small piece that snapped off that it's barely noticeable and not worth the effort to replace.
For me the bigger issue is turning out to be the size of the 3.5mm audio cutout. I can't get my Bose to get a secure connection. Unfortunately, it looks like the only way to get the opening big enough would be to actually take it into the first bend cut since the Bose plug cover is 6mm in diameter vs. what looks like a 5mm cutout now. Not sure if that's even an option? May have to see if I can cut back part of the plug cover on the Bose.
Other then that, still liking the cover. No issues with snagging or extra lint pickup from the small side gap or any of the corner cuts.

I was thinking of picking one up for my 6p and debating one for my 5x. I kinda like leaving my 5x naked.
If I were to get it I would for sure get it engraved with the nexus logo text across the back. You can request this as they can't put it as an option on the site due to trademark. You select the custom text engravings option ($5 more) and then in the custom text field write: "Nexus etching" or "X etching" (for the X in nexus only) as the custom text.

My videos have processed and are live on YouTube. I've embedded them into the first post.

littleguevara said:
So I had one of these toast covers a few years ago on my Nexus 5. Sure they're ok for the feel and all but the adhesive they use picks up a lot of lint from pockets, general dust etc.
If not for that, I may consider them again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's typically a little bit of exposed adhesive around the edges, but this should never be an issue after a few days of use. We always tell people to just leave it be and it will go away on it's own. :good:
---------- Post added at 08:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 PM ----------
ElecTriX666 said:
Looks really nice but it's a shame that they don't have mahogany, dark reddish wood alá art deco..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the disappointment, but we plan on adding a cherry wood this Spring!
---------- Post added at 08:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------
graffixnyc said:
I was thinking of picking one up for my 6p and debating one for my 5x. I kinda like leaving my 5x naked.
If I were to get it I would for sure get it engraved with the nexus logo text across the back. You can request this as they can't put it as an option on the site due to trademark. You select the custom text engravings option ($5 more) and then in the custom text field write: "Nexus etching" or "X etching" (for the X in nexus only) as the custom text.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for sharing the Nexus etching info, and you won't regret Toasting them!
---------- Post added at 08:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 PM ----------
dpwhitty11 said:
My videos have processed and are live on YouTube. I've embedded them into the first post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent video - thanks again! Those button covers were definitely underscored by the laser... don't know how that passed through QA. Please let me know if you'd like a replacement set of wraps & buttons!

So, a little update for me here.
I have, to my own disappointment, dropped my phone. It slid out of my pocket when I was getting into my Jeep and fell onto a parking lot. The skin performed just as I thought! The wood caved/dented in where the impacts were. There is no actual damage to my phone. A++.
Another note, we have finally had some colder days here in Houston. Because the skin is real wood, the ambient air temperature and relative humidity factor into the grippiness of the skin. It is definitely much more slippery in colder & drier weather, about as slick as an iPhone 6 (at least that's what I would compare it to).

dpwhitty11 said:
So, a little update for me here.
I have, to my own disappointment, dropped my phone. It slid out of my pocket when I was getting into my Jeep and fell onto a parking lot. The skin performed just as I thought! The wood caved/dented in where the impacts were. There is no actual damage to my phone. A++.
Another note, we have finally had some colder days here in Houston. Because the skin is real wood, the ambient air temperature and relative humidity factor into the grippiness of the skin. It is definitely much more slippery in colder & drier weather, about as slick as an iPhone 6 (at least that's what I would compare it to).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the update. In general, would you say the wooden toast skin is more or less slippery than the naked device?

These look amazing. I'm thinking about getting the darkest (teak?) one for my 5X. Just had a quick question. I use a Mountek magnetic phone holder in my car. What I currently do is put the thinner of the two metallic "badges" (that hold the phone to the magnetic mount) under my phone's case. Do you think it would it work to do the same under the Toast skin? I don't have calipers, but the piece of metal is quite thin.

Great review thanks!

bblzd said:
Thanks for the update. In general, would you say the wooden toast skin is more or less slippery than the naked device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you use the skin without the button covers? I like cases/skins that keep the buttons free or is the thickness too much and the buttons are lower than the wood?

bblzd said:
Thanks for the update. In general, would you say the wooden toast skin is more or less slippery than the naked device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here in Houston, I'd say (generally) more grippy. But like I said, once it got cold and less humid, it easily became more slippery.
bkjones88 said:
These look amazing. I'm thinking about getting the darkest (teak?) one for my 5X. Just had a quick question. I use a Mountek magnetic phone holder in my car. What I currently do is put the thinner of the two metallic "badges" (that hold the phone to the magnetic mount) under my phone's case. Do you think it would it work to do the same under the Toast skin? I don't have calipers, but the piece of metal is quite thin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a similar kind of magnetic mount. I have mine just stuck right on the back. If the magnet is strong enough it should be okay.
radeon962 said:
Can you use the skin without the button covers? I like cases/skins that keep the buttons free or is the thickness too much and the buttons are lower than the wood?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could, but they're basically flush with the skin. It would be pretty hard to press.

Does the camera lens ring affect light going into it? That's my only concern, as this phone is marketed with more light capturing capabilities.

ShishkaBerry said:
Does the camera lens ring affect light going into it? That's my only concern, as this phone is marketed with more light capturing capabilities.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a bit.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

dpwhitty11 said:
Not a bit.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sweet! I've been working on a custom case design since yesterday, the first time I've ever used photoshop lol. The fingerprint sensor looks like a full moon to me, so I'm thinking forest treeline with orion constellation above it on ebony. Currently waiting for the ice blue 5X, just ordered it Friday.

dpwhitty11 said:
You could, but they're basically flush with the skin. It would be pretty hard to press.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up just trimming the opening for the buttons with an Exacto knife so that I could leave the buttons bare.

Just a quick update to my experience with my Toast cover. Unfortunately, after 7 months I had to take it off. The cover on the power button had slowly chipped off (kept snagging on my pocket) down to the point it was difficult to press and a couple of the corner curve pieces had snapped off. Fortunately using a hair dryer helped it come off with no leftover adhesive.

Questions about Whitestonedome glass

I can't get all of the answers from their customer service but I am sure many would be interested to know answers to these questions. You can add your own.
1. Is the glue dangeours if it gets into the mic, speaker, inside buttons?
2. Can you install the glass over a decal sticker on bezels?
3. Does the surface have to be 100% level or is a degree or two off not such a problem?
4. Do they sell just a replacement glass/glue in case of breakage? No point spending extra money for the lamp if you already have one plus what are you going to do with extra lamps.
Thanks a bunch!

I can only answer #4. They do sell a kit with just the glass and glue, but it is only $5 less lol

refusedchaos said:
I can only answer #4. They do sell a kit with just the glass and glue, but it is only $5 less lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What? That is kind of a rip off...

1. it can be dangerous if it gets in. use masking tape for the top speaker and one time around the phone so everything will be sealed.
2. maybe, but i wouldn't do it.
3. it needs to be level so the glue won't flow in the wrong direction.
4. yes but it's still 35 bucks or so

chrisknife said:
1. it can be dangerous if it gets in. use masking tape for the top speaker and one time around the phone so everything will be sealed.
2. maybe, but i wouldn't do it.
3. it needs to be level so the glue won't flow in the wrong direction.
4. yes but it's still 35 bucks or so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you then get masking tape off the top speaker? I am pretty sure it is not in demo videos?

If you follow the directions I don't see how you would get it in the hole. It should dump out just above center and you tip it towards the bottom in the "jig". Once you drop the protector it should only flow under the screen as long as you don't press then cure with light.
So... is it possible, sure if you do 1 or more things wrong during installation but it doesn't seem likely.

notefreak said:
What? That is kind of a rip off...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup
https://www.amazon.com/Whitestone-Dome-REPLACEMENT-PROTECTOR-Protector/dp/B075D74S7K/
I'm sure some company will come up with a cheaper alternative eventually. It is just a glass protector and loca glue.

According to Whitestone, the glue is not harmful to any components or yourself. You can wipe off excess glue with alcohol.

hx4700 Killer said:
If you follow the directions I don't see how you would get it in the hole. It should dump out just above center and you tip it towards the bottom in the "jig". Once you drop the protector it should only flow under the screen as long as you don't press then cure with light.
So... is it possible, sure if you do 1 or more things wrong during installation but it doesn't seem likely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am pretty sure it easily and normally gets into the front top speaker.

notefreak said:
I can't get all of the answers from their customer service but I am sure many would be interested to know answers to these questions. You can add your own.
1. Is the glue dangeours if it gets into the mic, speaker, inside buttons?
2. Can you install the glass over a decal sticker on bezels?
3. Does the surface have to be 100% level or is a degree or two off not such a problem?
4. Do they sell just a replacement glass/glue in case of breakage? No point spending extra money for the lamp if you already have one plus what are you going to do with extra lamps.
Thanks a bunch!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. I had a little bit of seepage around my power button, and found some in my S-Pen slot - no damage done.
2. I think this is likely not to work terribly well. Anything that prevents the progress of the glue is likely to screw up the installation, and I suspect the edges of the decal would probably interfere.
3. I suspect that mine wasn't 100% flat, and it didn't cause problems (I had a bit of seepage both sides, not just the side that I suspect was marginally lower).
4. Yes, as has been mentioned, there is a new glass/glue option at a small saving over buying the whole kit again.

I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
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Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I may not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position to more thoroughly inspect. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it and I was afraid to move the jig :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!

hx4700 Killer said:
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
View attachment 4278097
View attachment 4278098
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I would not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't tape anything off and had to wipe a little glue off the side where the volume buttons are located. The glue didn't get into the speakers or any ports. The glue didn't even make to the volume buttons (close to the buttons but not touching.
Definitely make sure to have a level surface. I used the Bubble Level app to ensure the surface I was working on was level.
I watched the youtube videos a couple times and had it running while I was performing the install. Aside from the barely noticeable two air bubbles (and I mean BARELY noticeable), the install was fairly straight forward and easy.

warkentinkd said:
I didn't tape anything off and had to wipe a little glue off the side where the volume buttons are located. The glue didn't get into the speakers or any ports. The glue didn't even make to the volume buttons (close to the buttons but not touching.
Definitely make sure to have a level surface. I used the Bubble Level app to ensure the surface I was working on was level.
I watched the youtube videos a couple times and had it running while I was performing the install. Aside from the barely noticeable two air bubbles (and I mean BARELY noticeable), the install was fairly straight forward and easy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will grant you, if you don't give a crap what it looks like then yes. Its easy. I am a perfectionist. It requires absolute perfection if you want perfect results. There is no room for error, and no "fix" it later if you screw up. Other tempered glass you can remove, use tape and pull debris off it and re-install. This says you can't remove it once glued and re-use. To quote them "It is impossible"
So when your installing it, and you want perfection and you think about the fact that $50 is on the line if you blow it well.... its more stress than I like for doing that job.
It also yields the best results of any protector I have ever used so risk vs reward I guess.

hx4700 Killer said:
I will grant you, if you don't give a crap what it looks like then yes. Its easy. I am a perfectionist. It requires absolute perfection if you want perfect results. There is no room for error, and no "fix" it later if you screw up. Other tempered glass you can remove, use tape and pull debris off it and re-install. This says you can't remove it once glued and re-use. To quote them "It is impossible"
So when your installing it, and you want perfection and you think about the fact that $50 is on the line if you blow it well.... its more stress than I like for doing that job.
It also yields the best results of any protector I have ever used so risk vs reward I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck with that. lol
I have circled the two air bubbles that I have. Only noticeable with the screen off.

warkentinkd said:
Good luck with that. lol
I have circled the two air bubbles that I have. Only noticeable with the screen off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now with attachment. lol

hx4700 Killer said:
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I may not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position to more thoroughly inspect. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it and I was afraid to move the jig :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had bubbles in the top center and took off after two days. That's glue did not come off screen protector and trying to wipe off glue caused scratches on the inside off the glass. So now I have to but another package. I love the way it looked but be very careful on the part of lowering the glass after applying the glue. I went too fast and let it slam down and got bubbles. I watched a video saying u can take off and reapply, yeah that didn't work.

Be really careful, and tape the head speaker in case...
I'll tell you my story, which Murphy's law hit me with! I admit i didn't think this would happen to me... but it did, as always.
So i was being really careful, as this is a one shot story... watched the youtube video, surface was perfectly flat, the glass perfectly clean. Once the "glue" was put I saw a little dust, took it away, I was about to put the glass on top, fingers were stable as a sniper... Then suddenly out of nowhere two things happen : 1. i forgot to put the volume of my computer down and got a message which surprised me, 2. my dog decided to run after a bird across my office and while doing so hit my knee under my table... the destabilised me, the glass fell on the screen, didn't land on the level bar obviously and splashed the glue all over the place... and into the top speaker grill.... luckily i had an alcohol bottle and some cotton swap next to me, so i immediately cleaned the speaker but I guess some glue fell inside...
result : i was able to perfectly align the glass, small air bubbles that i was able to move out thanks to a hairdryer, I was able to recover 80% of my volume in my damaged speaker... but still trying to figure a way to win those 20%. Seems like some liquid is still on/inside the speaker OR the glue dried on the speaker INSIDE....trying with the hairdryer, maybe the cotton swab alcohol dripped inside. Well if anyone has an idea how to recuperate that lose, please share.
Just in case you have air bubble, use a hairdryer... but be careful of the heat. Also, i tried it on my Ringke Onyx.. it barely didn't work, so it bended a corner of the glass... but when i changed cases, used the hairdryer, and it fixed the issue.
Trial and error, trust me, you wanna put that tape, just in case Murphy decides to write a new law with you as example...

notefreak said:
How do you then get masking tape off the top speaker? I am pretty sure it is not in demo videos?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this a serious question?

Kawaisa said:
Is this a serious question?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just used scotch tape. It came off easily. You are supposed to run the light for 15 seconds on each end first then remove from the holder. Wipe off excess around screen and then do the final cure. Tape just lifted off and removing any excess glue around the perimeter is easy.

FIRST STEP MAKE SURE THE UV LIGHT WORKS. My first one the uv light was junk and I already had glue on. Really annoying.
I would also watch out when taking the bridge off with the uv glue. It can drip. I had it happen twice. I was worried the drips would cause a bubble so I picked up the whole thing and tilted it like the old game where you tilt the playing surface and move the ball around a maze. The puddle will move around like a ball of Mercury. Move the main puddle of glue to the drips and they join it like the liquid metal of the T-1000 in terminator 2. Then move the whole puddle back and gently set it down. Finish your install. I have done 3 now and think I can get it perfect every time.
Make sure you pinch the tray together at the bottom when you lay the glass on just before release. I had the tray separate and the whole glass slid between and fell right past the stopping tab you pull out and onto the phone in the wrong spot. Next time I made sure and pinch the bottom of the tray as I set the glass on it.
I also successfully removed the glass from a cured phone without breaking the glass. Just lift carefully from each edge and work your way in. You must go very slow and use very little force. I bet the glass could be cleaned up. I tried acetone and gave up as it didn't make a dent in it. That glue is tough. There may be something out there that will remove the glue and not jack the glass up I just don't want to invest time in it.