I can't get all of the answers from their customer service but I am sure many would be interested to know answers to these questions. You can add your own.
1. Is the glue dangeours if it gets into the mic, speaker, inside buttons?
2. Can you install the glass over a decal sticker on bezels?
3. Does the surface have to be 100% level or is a degree or two off not such a problem?
4. Do they sell just a replacement glass/glue in case of breakage? No point spending extra money for the lamp if you already have one plus what are you going to do with extra lamps.
Thanks a bunch!
I can only answer #4. They do sell a kit with just the glass and glue, but it is only $5 less lol
refusedchaos said:
I can only answer #4. They do sell a kit with just the glass and glue, but it is only $5 less lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What? That is kind of a rip off...
1. it can be dangerous if it gets in. use masking tape for the top speaker and one time around the phone so everything will be sealed.
2. maybe, but i wouldn't do it.
3. it needs to be level so the glue won't flow in the wrong direction.
4. yes but it's still 35 bucks or so
chrisknife said:
1. it can be dangerous if it gets in. use masking tape for the top speaker and one time around the phone so everything will be sealed.
2. maybe, but i wouldn't do it.
3. it needs to be level so the glue won't flow in the wrong direction.
4. yes but it's still 35 bucks or so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you then get masking tape off the top speaker? I am pretty sure it is not in demo videos?
If you follow the directions I don't see how you would get it in the hole. It should dump out just above center and you tip it towards the bottom in the "jig". Once you drop the protector it should only flow under the screen as long as you don't press then cure with light.
So... is it possible, sure if you do 1 or more things wrong during installation but it doesn't seem likely.
notefreak said:
What? That is kind of a rip off...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup
https://www.amazon.com/Whitestone-Dome-REPLACEMENT-PROTECTOR-Protector/dp/B075D74S7K/
I'm sure some company will come up with a cheaper alternative eventually. It is just a glass protector and loca glue.
According to Whitestone, the glue is not harmful to any components or yourself. You can wipe off excess glue with alcohol.
hx4700 Killer said:
If you follow the directions I don't see how you would get it in the hole. It should dump out just above center and you tip it towards the bottom in the "jig". Once you drop the protector it should only flow under the screen as long as you don't press then cure with light.
So... is it possible, sure if you do 1 or more things wrong during installation but it doesn't seem likely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am pretty sure it easily and normally gets into the front top speaker.
notefreak said:
I can't get all of the answers from their customer service but I am sure many would be interested to know answers to these questions. You can add your own.
1. Is the glue dangeours if it gets into the mic, speaker, inside buttons?
2. Can you install the glass over a decal sticker on bezels?
3. Does the surface have to be 100% level or is a degree or two off not such a problem?
4. Do they sell just a replacement glass/glue in case of breakage? No point spending extra money for the lamp if you already have one plus what are you going to do with extra lamps.
Thanks a bunch!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. I had a little bit of seepage around my power button, and found some in my S-Pen slot - no damage done.
2. I think this is likely not to work terribly well. Anything that prevents the progress of the glue is likely to screw up the installation, and I suspect the edges of the decal would probably interfere.
3. I suspect that mine wasn't 100% flat, and it didn't cause problems (I had a bit of seepage both sides, not just the side that I suspect was marginally lower).
4. Yes, as has been mentioned, there is a new glass/glue option at a small saving over buying the whole kit again.
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I may not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position to more thoroughly inspect. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it and I was afraid to move the jig :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
hx4700 Killer said:
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
View attachment 4278097
View attachment 4278098
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I would not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't tape anything off and had to wipe a little glue off the side where the volume buttons are located. The glue didn't get into the speakers or any ports. The glue didn't even make to the volume buttons (close to the buttons but not touching.
Definitely make sure to have a level surface. I used the Bubble Level app to ensure the surface I was working on was level.
I watched the youtube videos a couple times and had it running while I was performing the install. Aside from the barely noticeable two air bubbles (and I mean BARELY noticeable), the install was fairly straight forward and easy.
warkentinkd said:
I didn't tape anything off and had to wipe a little glue off the side where the volume buttons are located. The glue didn't get into the speakers or any ports. The glue didn't even make to the volume buttons (close to the buttons but not touching.
Definitely make sure to have a level surface. I used the Bubble Level app to ensure the surface I was working on was level.
I watched the youtube videos a couple times and had it running while I was performing the install. Aside from the barely noticeable two air bubbles (and I mean BARELY noticeable), the install was fairly straight forward and easy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will grant you, if you don't give a crap what it looks like then yes. Its easy. I am a perfectionist. It requires absolute perfection if you want perfect results. There is no room for error, and no "fix" it later if you screw up. Other tempered glass you can remove, use tape and pull debris off it and re-install. This says you can't remove it once glued and re-use. To quote them "It is impossible"
So when your installing it, and you want perfection and you think about the fact that $50 is on the line if you blow it well.... its more stress than I like for doing that job.
It also yields the best results of any protector I have ever used so risk vs reward I guess.
hx4700 Killer said:
I will grant you, if you don't give a crap what it looks like then yes. Its easy. I am a perfectionist. It requires absolute perfection if you want perfect results. There is no room for error, and no "fix" it later if you screw up. Other tempered glass you can remove, use tape and pull debris off it and re-install. This says you can't remove it once glued and re-use. To quote them "It is impossible"
So when your installing it, and you want perfection and you think about the fact that $50 is on the line if you blow it well.... its more stress than I like for doing that job.
It also yields the best results of any protector I have ever used so risk vs reward I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck with that. lol
I have circled the two air bubbles that I have. Only noticeable with the screen off.
warkentinkd said:
Good luck with that. lol
I have circled the two air bubbles that I have. Only noticeable with the screen off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now with attachment. lol
hx4700 Killer said:
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I may not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position to more thoroughly inspect. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it and I was afraid to move the jig :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had bubbles in the top center and took off after two days. That's glue did not come off screen protector and trying to wipe off glue caused scratches on the inside off the glass. So now I have to but another package. I love the way it looked but be very careful on the part of lowering the glass after applying the glue. I went too fast and let it slam down and got bubbles. I watched a video saying u can take off and reapply, yeah that didn't work.
Be really careful, and tape the head speaker in case...
I'll tell you my story, which Murphy's law hit me with! I admit i didn't think this would happen to me... but it did, as always.
So i was being really careful, as this is a one shot story... watched the youtube video, surface was perfectly flat, the glass perfectly clean. Once the "glue" was put I saw a little dust, took it away, I was about to put the glass on top, fingers were stable as a sniper... Then suddenly out of nowhere two things happen : 1. i forgot to put the volume of my computer down and got a message which surprised me, 2. my dog decided to run after a bird across my office and while doing so hit my knee under my table... the destabilised me, the glass fell on the screen, didn't land on the level bar obviously and splashed the glue all over the place... and into the top speaker grill.... luckily i had an alcohol bottle and some cotton swap next to me, so i immediately cleaned the speaker but I guess some glue fell inside...
result : i was able to perfectly align the glass, small air bubbles that i was able to move out thanks to a hairdryer, I was able to recover 80% of my volume in my damaged speaker... but still trying to figure a way to win those 20%. Seems like some liquid is still on/inside the speaker OR the glue dried on the speaker INSIDE....trying with the hairdryer, maybe the cotton swab alcohol dripped inside. Well if anyone has an idea how to recuperate that lose, please share.
Just in case you have air bubble, use a hairdryer... but be careful of the heat. Also, i tried it on my Ringke Onyx.. it barely didn't work, so it bended a corner of the glass... but when i changed cases, used the hairdryer, and it fixed the issue.
Trial and error, trust me, you wanna put that tape, just in case Murphy decides to write a new law with you as example...
notefreak said:
How do you then get masking tape off the top speaker? I am pretty sure it is not in demo videos?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this a serious question?
Kawaisa said:
Is this a serious question?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just used scotch tape. It came off easily. You are supposed to run the light for 15 seconds on each end first then remove from the holder. Wipe off excess around screen and then do the final cure. Tape just lifted off and removing any excess glue around the perimeter is easy.
FIRST STEP MAKE SURE THE UV LIGHT WORKS. My first one the uv light was junk and I already had glue on. Really annoying.
I would also watch out when taking the bridge off with the uv glue. It can drip. I had it happen twice. I was worried the drips would cause a bubble so I picked up the whole thing and tilted it like the old game where you tilt the playing surface and move the ball around a maze. The puddle will move around like a ball of Mercury. Move the main puddle of glue to the drips and they join it like the liquid metal of the T-1000 in terminator 2. Then move the whole puddle back and gently set it down. Finish your install. I have done 3 now and think I can get it perfect every time.
Make sure you pinch the tray together at the bottom when you lay the glass on just before release. I had the tray separate and the whole glass slid between and fell right past the stopping tab you pull out and onto the phone in the wrong spot. Next time I made sure and pinch the bottom of the tray as I set the glass on it.
I also successfully removed the glass from a cured phone without breaking the glass. Just lift carefully from each edge and work your way in. You must go very slow and use very little force. I bet the glass could be cleaned up. I tried acetone and gave up as it didn't make a dent in it. That glue is tough. There may be something out there that will remove the glue and not jack the glass up I just don't want to invest time in it.
Related
Friendly warning -
Do not apply water (or probably any other liquids) to the screen. There is a very significant risk of it entering the LCD layers. The plastic frame is not sealed at the bottom where the "n" button is. The other three sides have adhesive tape applied. Why they didn't seal up the bottom is a real curiosity.
I used just a wet paper towel with some dish soap on it because I wanted to remove all dirt before applying a screen protector. This was enough to get water in and it went almost all the way to the top of the LCD and was very obviously visible. The screen wiping probably helped it get up in there. I was horrified, of course.
I tried blowing a fan at it for 24 hours and it did nothing. So I took it apart to see if it was possible to separate the LCD glass but it is not possible without breaking because there is an extremely thin layer of glass in there that breaks if flexed. I also noted that there is an oil layer to ensure a transparent connection between the layers of glass. I did this a month ago so I'm not sure but I believe there are 3 layers to the panel.
Actually this got me to go out and try a Acer Iconia A100 for a bit. I returned it though because the LCD is junk and the battery life is not so great. But wow it was so fast. Still, I'd rather have slow and an IPS screen than a TN screen with bad viewing angles. So I ended up buying one of those $150 Overstock.com refurb Nook Colors. $150 washing experience disaster.
The "irony" of this is that I had run without a screen protector for 6 months and managed to destroy the unit when working on applying a protector!
Did you try putting it in rice?
Sent from my LG Optimus V using Tapatalk
You never want to use water to clean electronics, that's pretty much the first thing one should learn owning any electronics. I prefer rubbing alcohol, if it does "get" anywhere it shouldn't, it'll dry very quickly and is less conductive than water.
One thing to remember is if you ever do get any of your electronics wet try submerging our device in rice overnight, it should absorb the water.
koopakid08 said:
Did you try putting it in rice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dry rice of course.. Or desiccant packs that can be found in pleather products, such as purses at Wal Mart, etc..
I regularly wipe my Nook down using a damp microfiber cloth, and it seems fine. I'd put the device on a horizontal surface, gently give the surface a swift wipe or two, and dry/polish it using yet another bit of cloth. I never needed to use soap, but I'd probably choose ethanol or isopropanol for more extensive cleaning, anyway. Drugstore alcohol tends to leave behind a visible residue (bitter, too... don't ask) so I like to mix my own cleaning "cocktail."
Hammer warning
Do not smash your Nook with a hammer! It will break it! WTF Barnes and Noble? WHY DIDN'T SOMEONE TELL ME????
swaaye said:
Friendly warning -
Do not apply water (or probably any other liquids) to the screen. There is a very significant risk of it entering the LCD layers. The plastic frame is not sealed at the bottom where the "n" button is. The other three sides have adhesive tape applied. Why they didn't seal up the bottom is a real curiosity.
I used just a wet paper towel with some dish soap on it because I wanted to remove all dirt before applying a screen protector. This was enough to get water in and it went almost all the way to the top of the LCD and was very obviously visible. The screen wiping probably helped it get up in there. I was horrified, of course.
I tried blowing a fan at it for 24 hours and it did nothing. So I took it apart to see if it was possible to separate the LCD glass but it is not possible without breaking because there is an extremely thin layer of glass in there that breaks if flexed. I also noted that there is an oil layer to ensure a transparent connection between the layers of glass. I did this a month ago so I'm not sure but I believe there are 3 layers to the panel.
Actually this got me to go out and try a Acer Iconia A100 for a bit. I returned it though because the LCD is junk and the battery life is not so great. But wow it was so fast. Still, I'd rather have slow and an IPS screen than a TN screen with bad viewing angles. So I ended up buying one of those $150 Overstock.com refurb Nook Colors. $150 washing experience disaster.
The "irony" of this is that I had run without a screen protector for 6 months and managed to destroy the unit when working on applying a protector!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
too bad about your nook. thanks for the heads up ^.^
Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
It was just amazingly easy to get water into the LCD. It is easier than it should be. If you were to accidentally spill a drink on it I think water would definitely enter. It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.
Invisishields are great!
swaaye said:
Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
It was just amazingly easy to get water into the LCD. It is easier than it should be. If you were to accidentally spill a drink on it I think water would definitely enter. It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Invisishields are great! Getting one of those put on fixes the no seal at the bottom, and prevents the seep through the screen cover issue. (BTB, the screen cover is a porous plastic over the glass.)
mwray said:
Invisishields are great! Getting one of those put on fixes the no seal at the bottom, and prevents the seep through the screen cover issue. (BTB, the screen cover is a porous plastic over the glass.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would avoid any wet-applying screen protector...
Screenguard
I use screenguard all the time and it works great..takes off all the greasy finger prints and make Nook Glass shine...never had an issue with it..
Just be very careful how much goes near the bottom by the 'n' button. But good to hear you haven't seen it get in the LCD.
My NC still worked with the water inside but the water totally messed up the background of the LCD. Looked like a funky puddle in the background. Damn did that suck. You have no idea how disgusting it feels to have ruined the NC only because I wanted to finally put on a screen protector! After 6 months of being bare screen I wanted to try to end the messy finger prints annoyance.
I use a little spritz of the cleaning solution that came with my glasses and wipe dry with the cloth that came with the Nook all the time. Never had an issue. Maybe I'll be a little more careful in the future.
One must use instant rice for drying out electronics. Regular rice is like mamory glands on a bull.
swaaye said:
Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good point. I almost forgot about that... The cloth I use tends to wick away the oils and such, so I never needed to use solvents other than water. Alcohol also exhibits less surface tension than water, and that might help it get into the LCD.
swaaye said:
It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm... is there any way to mod this thing to prevent that? Suddenly, a screen protector sounds like a good idea, though one would have to be very careful during cleaning.
swaaye said:
.... but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funny, I've used Windex over 6 times to clean off the screen of my Nook with no ill effects. I've sprayed it on the screen directly too and it's run down by the bottom.
Maybe I just haven't been liberal enough with my use of liquids. Next time I guess I will have to try the bathtub.
inportb said:
Hm... is there any way to mod this thing to prevent that? Suddenly, a screen protector sounds like a good idea, though one would have to be very careful during cleaning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After much research and scientific review I've come up with a mod that will prevent this. In fact with liberal application it may even make your nook WATERPROOF!!!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Lol. Ya I have been thinking of silicone. It would probably be necessary to disassemble the NC to do that though. Silicone is really easy to make a mess with too.
I did some searching on NC water damage and I'm not alone it seems. Other tablets and phones I've used have better protection around the LCD. Nook Color engineers only sealed 3 sides with their design. There is a narrow rubber gasket that can be seen at the bottom but apparently it doesn't work so great.
Btw, Windex has ammonia in it and that can cloud plastics with enough exposure. Bad for LCDs with plastic surface.
so, i didnt see the OP respond to all the rice comments.....do you still have the nook and have you put it in a box/bag/tub of rice yet??
yourm0m1 said:
so, i didnt see the OP respond to all the rice comments.....do you still have the nook and have you put it in a box/bag/tub of rice yet??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No my original NC is dead because after 24 hours of ineffectual fan blowing I tried taking it apart and separating the LCD layers. Unfortunately there is an extremely thin pane of glass that breaks super easily. The LCD literally slides apart though. There's only some kind of oil layer between the 3 or so different glass layers in it (for transparency). No adhesive or sealant.
The rice idea sounds interesting but I'm not sure if it would work with how the water is pressed in there and also the oil layer that might seal the water in. The rice / desiccant idea sounds like a good way to dry out devices though.
swaaye said:
The rice idea sounds interesting but I'm not sure if it would work with how the water is pressed in there and also the oil layer that might seal the water in. The rice / desiccant idea sounds like a good way to dry out devices though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gotcha....it has been proven to work, hopefully you will never need to worry about it but in the future remember that as a first attempt (or with friends/family)
For those of you who have tried the various fixes on this forum and are having no luck with the screen lift issue, then this fix may be for you. I believe the screen lifting from the frame is caused by something internal that is pushing the screen upwards and causing the adhesive failure. This fix will use glue to re-establish the bond between the screen and the frame.
This fix involves taking the back cover off and removing some screws and creating a gap between the frame and screen for the glue. Oh, and while the glue cures, you will not be able to use your device for at least a few hours depending on the glue you use.
If this is too much for you or if you are addicted to your device and cannot put it down to let the glue cure, there is an alternate glue fix that is faster, does not require any disassembly, but it uses super-glue - which dries too fast for my liking. The post is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422 - Thanks to acegolfer for this.
*** DISCLAIMER ***
I'm not responsible if you break your device doing this fix.
Tools required
1. Guitar pick - or something flat to remove back cover
2. Small phillips head screwdriver
3. Toothpick
4. Glue
5. Damp cloth/ cloth - to wipe excess glue
6. Needle or tack - to apply glue.
7. Rubber bands, eraser, book - anything to keep screen in place and frame against the screen.
First things first. the glue I used is not super-glue, it is epoxy. Why? Because I've had much success using it, but not much luck with super-glue. See pic of the epoxy I used.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Since most of us have screen lift on the left side, these instructions assume the fix will be on that side.
Steps:
1. Turn off N7 and take back cover off
2. Remove the 4 screws on the left side.
3. Take the toothpick and cut it in half. It should now look like this:
4. Now flip the N7 over. Using the guitar pick (or the tool you used to take back cover off). CAREFULLY insert between the frame and screen to create an initial gap. then take one side of the toothpick and insert it to one side of the guitar pick. then take the other side of the toothpick and insert it to the other side of the guitar pick. take guitar pick out, it should now look like this:
5. Open up the glue. Squeeze a pea size amount onto a disposable piece of hard plastic. Even though the one I bought is self-mixing, I mixed it again using the tack, then used the damp cloth to clean off the tack.
6. Take the tack and dip it into the glue. The tack should now have some glue on the tip. CAREFULLY place glue in the gap you created in step 4. You do not need to fill it up, just a small amount. You can either place the glue continuously or spaced out at even points. I chose to put glue at evenly spaced out points approx 1/4" apart. Alternatively, the glue came with a fine tipped applicator (see pic), so you could have applied the glue directly into the gap, but that could be messy.
7. When the glue has been applied, remove the toothpicks and close the gap. Some glue will be squeezed out so wipe it off with the damp cloth. Flip N7 over and put the screws back.
8. take rubber bands and place them evenly spaced around the N7 to keep frame against the glass. then put an eraser on the screen to keep screen flush with frame. LEAVE THE BACK COVER OFF. You do not want anything that could possibly push the screen up at this point.
9. After putting screws back and applying rubber bands, double-check to see that there is no gap and the screen is flush with frame (similar to the right side).
10. I placed a phone book on top which I did not include in the picture.
11. If everything looks fine, let sit for at least 2 hours before touching it. If you used the same epoxy glue I did, I would not turn it on for at least 10 hours. I also did not put the back cover on until the 10 hour mark.
Final result.
I did this about 2 days ago. Since then, I've tested it by running some tegra 3 optimized games like Zen pinball and riptide until the rear lower left of the N7 felt quite warm. I know that when I performed the shim fix and the screw tightening, the screen would have lifted at this point - but it didn't with this glue fix. In fact, after gluing the frame to the screen, it feels more solid because there is no longer any sponginess when holding with my left hand and absolutely no creaks. Also, it feels good to see that after you've punished the tegra 3 chipset, the heat generated didn't cause the screen to lift.
Hope this helps some of you. If you feel that I missed something or have some suggestions, please let me know.
Cheers.
Thanks for both trying and posting this. You don't say at which point you replaced the screws? I'm guessing it was when the glue had dried?
I just did the following:
Started transformers playing [was plugged in to power]
Set it on repeat..
waited about 30 mins - so it got a little warm..
Used the same rubber band / eraser trick you did..[without removing the back case] to hold the edge of the screen down.
Waited about 4 hours - film on repeat
Unplugged, turned it off and left it over night [about 12 hours]
Screen has held down for the past week - so sign of lifting.
So maybe worth trying before you go for the glue - and 100% non warranty issues
I think you've hit the nail on the head here.
Looking at THIS teardown it seems clear that the screws play no part in how the display sits within the silver/black frame. The screws hold the internals to the frame and the display is glued to the frame. If the display is raised, then it's the adhesive not working. If you can push it to be flush, then its obviously not the screws pushing it out.
Looks like this is the only real permanent solution. I only wish there was a way to do this without actually bending the display up like that. My luck says I'd crack it! >.<
eager27 said:
Thanks for both trying and posting this. You don't say at which point you replaced the screws? I'm guessing it was when the glue had dried?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That should have been part of step 7. Edited. Thanks for noticing my error.
The fix looks great, no screen lift and no sideways bulge. Can I ask what sizes are those rubber bands you used?
jtc42 said:
I think you've hit the nail on the head here.
Looking at THIS teardown it seems clear that the screws play no part in how the display sits within the silver/black frame. The screws hold the internals to the frame and the display is glued to the frame. If the display is raised, then it's the adhesive not working. If you can push it to be flush, then its obviously not the screws pushing it out.
Looks like this is the only real permanent solution. I only wish there was a way to do this without actually bending the display up like that. My luck says I'd crack it! >.<
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try the alternate glue fix with super-glue by acegolfer:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422
Summerfly said:
The fix looks great, no screen lift and no sideways bulge. Can I ask what sizes are those rubber bands you used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know exactly. I just had a jar of rubber bands and I chose ones that I thought would apply enough pressure to the frame to keep it from separating from the screen.
ckl_88 said:
try the alternate glue fix with super-glue by acegolfer:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah that looks safer. Though I'll maybe wait for a bit until I'm less bothered about it being in perfect condition. My Xperia Arc had the famous casing crack and I decided to just glue it and got the glue everywhere and it'd dried before I got to wipe it off. I'm clearly still as skilled as a small child with glue. Not too bad but certainly not as shiny now >.<
jtc42 said:
Ah that looks safer. Though I'll maybe wait for a bit until I'm less bothered about it being in perfect condition. My Xperia Arc had the famous casing crack and I decided to just glue it and got the glue everywhere and it'd dried before I got to wipe it off. I'm clearly still as skilled as a small child with glue. Not too bad but certainly not as shiny now >.<
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm like you with the glue - that's why I used a type that takes minutes to set instead of just 30-60 seconds. It just dries too fast sometimes. You could probably try the epoxy instead of the crazy glue.
ckl_88 said:
I'm like you with the glue - that's why I used a type that takes minutes to set instead of just 30-60 seconds. It just dries too fast sometimes. You could probably try the epoxy instead of the crazy glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely calling superglue 'crazy glue' from now on. I'll have to look around and find the strongest slow-drying glue available. Waiting around for another hot day though as that's the only time it raises enough to glue it, and given that I'm in the UK this could take some time.
padding my screws with the pill packaging seem to fix it for me even though mine was rather small lift. if anything continues or i see more lift i will definitely try this. good looks on the DIY
This is probably the most direct and effective way to solve the lifting screen problem.
I used 3M Scotch glue to stick the screen tight on the bezel.
The gap was really small so I used a IV catheter to drip to glue into the gap. (Yes, I work in a hospital)
After 24 hours, I tested every possible way to make the screen lift but it remained solid and beautiful.
For those who still have screen lifting or side bulging problem, just try this solution. There's no way it would fail.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
No real screen lift for me, just the crazy sounds when pressing the left side of the screen. Depending on the type of fix sometimes the right side would make sounds also. After trying three separate fixes and all failing once the N7 heats up this is the one thing that really seems to have fixed the issue. Thank you!!!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
thanks for posting this guide. I have tried all the other fixes on this board but this is the only one that worked for me.
abitzsong said:
This is probably the most direct and effective way to solve the lifting screen problem.
I used 3M Scotch glue to stick the screen tight on the bezel.
The gap was really small so I used a IV catheter to drip to glue into the gap. (Yes, I work in a hospital)
After 24 hours, I tested every possible way to make the screen lift but it remained solid and beautiful.
For those who still have screen lifting or side bulging problem, just try this solution. There's no way it would fail.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any screen mushiness or waves when you pressed near where your screen lift issue was? And if so, did applying this fix help at all?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
I think this worked for me. Except I didn't read about using toothpicks as spacers. I just found a really pointy toothpick and dipped the tip in superglue then dabbed the edge of the raised screen. Then pushed it in place and held for several minutes. I don't know if it'll hold or if its even doing anything. I'll have to see in the morning. Next time I'll spread the side bevel out using the guitar picks and toothpicks.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Just did the glue fix and got a little on the trim, it dried so fast I couldn't get it off. So while I rubbed it with too gone and scratched with my finger nail I thing the paint began to come off. Is it possible to take the tablet that far apart to paint the bezel or is it part of the screen?
Maybe I'll just rub all the silver off!! Lol
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
glue
Okay I tried a bunch of suggestions before glueing like tightening and loosening the screws as well as taking off the little square of black foam. Unfortunately, none of these methods permenently resolved the lifting screen problem. Then I tried the glue method. I loosened up the 4 screws on the left side and I seperated the screen slightly from the bezel with a few toothpicks. To make sure everything was nice and clean I used 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the mating surfaces. At this point something interesting happened. When I took out the toothpicks and pressed things back together the reactivated glue stuck the glass back on. However, I didn't want to take any chances so I put a little more alcohol on the seam and spread things apart so that I could use some 5 minute epoxy to make things more permanent. After I applied the glue I put the back on and pressed everthing together with some rubberbands and a foam pad. Any glue that oozed out was immediately cleaned off with a cloth and alcohol. Then I left it alone overnight to set fully, and things are looking good so far.
Kuchar09 said:
Just did the glue fix and got a little on the trim, it dried so fast I couldn't get it off. So while I rubbed it with too gone and scratched with my finger nail I thing the paint began to come off. Is it possible to take the tablet that far apart to paint the bezel or is it part of the screen?
Maybe I'll just rub all the silver off!! Lol
View attachment 1255430
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could touch it up with some silver paint.
I finally installed the XOskin screen protector I got a while back.
It's been 17 hours since I installed it, about six hours in front of a heater register. I must have a hundred air bubbles! Doesn't look much different from this morning "before" a majority of the heated time. They say the micro bubbles go away in 24-48hrs. Don't know I'd call them micro bubbles and we'll see about them going away too.
Should get that guy that installed one in their video but he probably done a bunch. He had hardly any bubbles after installing it.
It's cut close near the speakers, top/bottom have some extra room but holes from the camera/sensor are tight. It took me three tries to get it right.
I put a Zagg on a 7" tab and don't remember this many bubbles. Maybe bigger doesn't mean easier?
wptski said:
I finally installed the XOskin screen protector I got a while back.
It's been 17 hours since I installed it, about six hours in front of a heater register. I must have a hundred air bubbles! Doesn't look much different from this morning "before" a majority of the heated time. They say the micro bubbles go away in 24-48hrs. Don't know I'd call them micro bubbles and we'll see about them going away too.
Should get that guy that installed one in their video but he probably done a bunch. He had hardly any bubbles after installing it.
It's cut close near the speakers, top/bottom have some extra room but holes from the camera/sensor are tight. It took me three tries to get it right.
I put a Zagg on a 7" tab and don't remember this many bubbles. Maybe bigger doesn't mean easier?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I installed Zaggs when I worked at Best Buy and was the go to guy there so I am going to see if I can explain this here and it might help some people out. (This is not me bragging, this is me trying to give back in whatever way I can)
First make sure you are using a clean surface and the air quality is pretty good (no dust floating around)
Next clean the screen with at least water, the spray included with Zagg and XO are actually pretty good cleaners too. You will need the cloth that comes with it to wipe it down later so use something like an extra microfiber cloth to clean it when it is wet.
Beat out the cloth that came with it against something. It will have dust in it, you need to get all that dust out. Wipe the dry screen down very well, make sure to end it you wipe all in one direction making sure there is no dust on the screen. I've found that if you start at the top and wipe towards yourself you will end up with no dust.
Spray the screen with the spray included while covering the holes that are showing on the front as you spray by them with that screen protector.
Spray the top of the screen protector (makes it easier for the squeegee to slide across and remove bubbles), and spray your fingers. (important step, saves so much grief later caused by finger prints or by trying really hard not to touch the back.)
Remove the protective backing making sure not to let any of the protector touch itself, that is a major problem with people trying their first time. Then spray the back of the protector generously and your fingers again.
Put the protector down and get it lined up. It will slide around pretty easily. When it is in line use the squeegee and make a line across the middle of the protector to hold it down.
Pull up half of it making sure not to go all the way to where you pressed it down and spray the screen and protector to make sure they are still wet and slowly squeegee it down. Start with the part touching the screen and squeegee, only laying down what the squeegee is pressing down. This will ensure that you don't create a bubble by just laying it down.
Pull up the other half to where you stopped the last time and repeat the last step with the other half.
You might end up with some liquid left in the protector, but the squeegee will get this out easily. Make sure you look at it from all angles with light hitting all sides so that you can see all the pockets. Squeegee out what remains and you are done.
It seems like a ton of work, but I consistently showed people up with this method. After putting enough down you just lay it and get it in line and squeegee the crap out of it, but this is the best way to learn. Remember that you will need some decent force to make sure you get it tight to the screen. Don't use too much though or you'll stretch it.
wptski said:
I finally installed the XOskin screen protector I got a while back.
It's been 17 hours since I installed it, about six hours in front of a heater register. I must have a hundred air bubbles! Doesn't look much different from this morning "before" a majority of the heated time. They say the micro bubbles go away in 24-48hrs. Don't know I'd call them micro bubbles and we'll see about them going away too.
Should get that guy that installed one in their video but he probably done a bunch. He had hardly any bubbles after installing it.
It's cut close near the speakers, top/bottom have some extra room but holes from the camera/sensor are tight. It took me three tries to get it right.
I put a Zagg on a 7" tab and don't remember this many bubbles. Maybe bigger doesn't mean easier?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
are you sure you clean your screen perfectly before you apply it?
it might need longer time, like 24 hours - 48 hours, but it shouldn't that much bubble for 17 hours.
I apply the xoskin on my nexus 7 and end up with 1 bubble after about 24 hours or more, most probably because i didn't clean it well. Oh but well, the xoskin on my nexus 7 definitely reduce the sensitivity and sometimes makes the screen almost totally not responsive (i always gotta wipe the screen with something and it finally fixed). Might be the defect in my case but i don't wanna take a chance in their product again for now.
I used Monster screen cleaner with a micro fiber cloth, no cloth comes with the XOskin. One thing, it kind-of stuck and didn't slide around like the Zagg did. I wet it good on both sides but maybe because it took three tries, I should have rewet it??
In front of the heat register all day, no drastic change that I can tell and coming up on 24 hrs.
wptski said:
I used Monster screen cleaner with a micro fiber cloth, no cloth comes with the XOskin. One thing, it kind-of stuck and didn't slide around like the Zagg did. I wet it good on both sides but maybe because it took three tries, I should have rewet it??
In front of the heat register all day, no drastic change that I can tell and coming up on 24 hrs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, you have to rewet it when you reapply it. I would request a replacement from XO. I wouldn't put it in front of a heater either. If you squeegee it down good enough you don't need heat.
thacounty said:
Yea, you have to rewet it when you reapply it. I would request a replacement from XO. I wouldn't put it in front of a heater either. If you squeegee it down good enough you don't need heat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean that I didn't have it completely laid down all way, I was off location a mile. You have to position by the camera/sensor holes and the top edge and there isn't much room for error. Sideways there is no room for error, overlap near the speakers and its edge will stick up.
I found the follow at the XOskin site:
How do I get rid of bubbles that appear after I’ve installed my XO Skins?
If it was recently that you installed the XO Skins, as soon as possible try pressing out the bubbles lightly with the squeegee. Make sure the squeegee is wet to avoid burn marks on the Skin. If the Skin has been dry for longer than a few hours, then the large bubbles are set in and you'll need a replacement. Small bubbles, or mini-bubbles, are normal and will disappear 24 to 48 hours after installation.
Whoops! I wonder what they call large and /or small bubbles? I removed it, wet applied to the sheet it came on on a flat surface. We'll see how it looks after a while and if it's worth a retry. Might have to get a replacement.
Like I mention, even when wet, it doesn't slide around easily. Maybe these are not as easy as a Zagg to install which has an orange peel surface which would allow the fluid in the pockets for easier movement?
wptski said:
I mean that I didn't have it completely laid down all way, I was off location a mile. You have to position by the camera/sensor holes and the top edge and there isn't much room for error. Sideways there is no room for error, overlap near the speakers and its edge will stick up.
I found the follow at the XOskin site:
How do I get rid of bubbles that appear after I’ve installed my XO Skins?
If it was recently that you installed the XO Skins, as soon as possible try pressing out the bubbles lightly with the squeegee. Make sure the squeegee is wet to avoid burn marks on the Skin. If the Skin has been dry for longer than a few hours, then the large bubbles are set in and you'll need a replacement. Small bubbles, or mini-bubbles, are normal and will disappear 24 to 48 hours after installation.
Whoops! I wonder what they call large and /or small bubbles? I removed it, wet applied to the sheet it came on on a flat surface. We'll see how it looks after a while and if it's worth a retry. Might have to get a replacement.
Like I mention, even when wet, it doesn't slide around easily. Maybe these are not as easy as a Zagg to install which has an orange peel surface which would allow the fluid in the pockets for easier movement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I put xo skins on my evo 3d and my 2 touchpads when I had them. They don't slide as easily, you are correct, but keeping them wet will go a long way. That is why so much spray is included. Just make sure all bubbles are gone before you start letting it dry.
thacounty said:
I put xo skins on my evo 3d and my 2 touchpads when I had them. They don't slide as easily, you are correct, but keeping them wet will go a long way. That is why so much spray is included. Just make sure all bubbles are gone before you start letting it dry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Too bad I didn't have /get more info before the first try. Yeah it probably needs lots of spray to let it slide but one has to be careful because of the speakers on the sides.
wptski said:
Too bad I didn't have /get more info before the first try. Yeah it probably needs lots of spray to let it slide but one has to be careful because of the speakers on the sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, if you get liquid around them dry them out immediately. That's why I cover ports as I spray around them with the protector.
I have had this phone for about 1.5 years now and it held up,it was running very well but it always had an overheating problem,you have probably seen me all over the forums asking how can I lower the temperature of the phone lol.
Well it has become less apparent with the latest build of Lineage,only when I am using Snapchat but that doesn't matter.
But now what started happening is my back glass is unsticking,the bottom part to be exact,I believe this is because the device heated up so much it weakened the adhesive.
So I am asking now with what material I can re-stick the back glass properly since I don't want it to hang like that for no reason.
Use fevibond
You can use fevibond(Synthetic Rubber Base Glue). I used it to stick front screen peeling off from top left corner.
Dhgr8 said:
You can use fevibond(Synthetic Rubber Base Glue). I used it to stick front screen peeling off from top left corner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could I use something like superglue or something similar to that?
Dinkec27 said:
Could I use something like superglue or something similar to that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that would make it tough/impossible to separate it for repairs.
Please refer to this thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/z3-compact/help/sony-xperia-z3-compacts-display-peeling-t3156347
Dinkec27 said:
Could I use something like superglue or something similar to that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope I wouldn't do that, as super glue is not flexible. I have glued both screen and back glass with B7000 adhesive (most repair shops use it specifically for displays) and it hasn't moved since. That was done some 4 months ago. If you put enough glue on the frame (be careful not to leave empty spots, cover the complete frame with glue), of course avoid dripping of the sides into the frame, I am sure that it won't peel off again, especially the back glass.
I am waiting for new screen to arrive, so I'll have to re-do everything again, of course with B7000.
Dinkec27 said:
Could I use something like superglue or something similar to that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never use superglue, it will not last long and will ruin your phone, as superglue's main ingredient disintegrates plastic...
I've also used red 3m tape, does not hold!
Bought B7000 glue, will use it once my new battery arrives, so using useless 3m red tape in the mean time...
-Update-
B7000 Glue works!!!
I heavily flash, test etc. and no matter how hot the phone gets, it's sealed and does not reopen.
I cleaned the surfaces, I applied the glue, and did not care about making a mess (the glue is easily removable for future repairs) and did not care about it oozing out either, just made sure that it covered that border.
I did not use any heat, and it was still cold here.
I then used clothes pegs, 3 on each edge (I was worried about too much pressure, but it was not an issue)
I did not turn my phone on at all, and waited for 48 hours, before removing the pegs then turning it on.
Please note: the z3c is bendable, especially in jeans pockets, I use an anodized bumper to keep it straight. And using tempered glass on both sides is recommended.
***I did however buy a new battery, as my previous battery seemed fat, and I also removed the nfc sticker, but not sure if that is necessary.
I need to vent, I'm so pissed off. Back in January I got a Whitestone Dome when they were on sale. I was happy with my plastic protector at the time, so I didn't install it right away. Fast forward to last night...
I watched a solid dozen Note8 install videos on YouTube, have been reading for months on reddit and xda all the other threads, and executed my installation perfectly according to the directions. I even taped off the earpiece just in case. Not to brag, but I'm usually really good with this sort of stuff. It ended in disaster due to the poor quality control of this product and its company.
I have read quite a few horror stories on social media about Whitestone's products, but I assumed if I was very careful I could do a successful install. WRONG. The supplied vial of glue was way too much, and after perfectly applying the glue and dropping the glass on top, capillary action pulled the glue nicely across the screen and I was very pleased. It looked beautiful. After waiting the full 15 seconds top and 15 seconds bottom, I removed my Note8 from the tray as instructed. To my horror, TONS of liquid excess glue was dripping down the sides. My S-Pen was DRIPPING with glue! There was glue everywhere, even in the bottom of the plastic jig. AND THE SCREEN WAS STILL LOOSE! After trying my best to clean up that huge mess, I followed the instructions to do the "secondary" cure. AFTER MULTIPLE MINUTES UNDER THE SUPPLIED UV LIGHT, THE GLUE IS STILL WET! My phone STINKS of this chemical, and every crevice of it is oozing this glue that will not cure under the UV light. I was meticulous about everything, there is nothing I did wrong. And besides WHY WON'T THE GLUE FULLY CURE UNDER UV!? I used the supplied USB cable, and a powerful Samsung USB wall charger so I know the light isn't "weak." I will admit that the screen has stopped moving around as of today, so something has sorta cured. But the edges are still wet, and leave an oily residue when touched, and look furry because there is so much tacky, sticky residue still oozing out.
What a horrible mess. It took me hours to clean everything up, and there is still glue in every tiny crevice of my Note8. I hope I got my S-Pen out and wiped off in time - it's still working, for now.
Always take your S-Pen out first!
ffolkes said:
I need to vent, I'm so pissed off. Back in January I got a Whitestone Dome when they were on sale. I was happy with my plastic protector at the time, so I didn't install it right away. Fast forward to last night...
I watched a solid dozen Note8 install videos on YouTube, have been reading for months on reddit and xda all the other threads, and executed my installation perfectly according to the directions. I even taped off the earpiece just in case. Not to brag, but I'm usually really good with this sort of stuff. It ended in disaster due to the poor quality control of this product and its company.
I have read quite a few horror stories on social media about Whitestone's products, but I assumed if I was very careful I could do a successful install. WRONG. The supplied vial of glue was way too much, and after perfectly applying the glue and dropping the glass on top, capillary action pulled the glue nicely across the screen and I was very pleased. It looked beautiful. After waiting the full 15 seconds top and 15 seconds bottom, I removed my Note8 from the tray as instructed. To my horror, TONS of liquid excess glue was dripping down the sides. My S-Pen was DRIPPING with glue! There was glue everywhere, even in the bottom of the plastic jig. AND THE SCREEN WAS STILL LOOSE! After trying my best to clean up that huge mess, I followed the instructions to do the "secondary" cure. AFTER MULTIPLE MINUTES UNDER THE SUPPLIED UV LIGHT, THE GLUE IS STILL WET! My phone STINKS of this chemical, and every crevice of it is oozing this glue that will not cure under the UV light. I was meticulous about everything, there is nothing I did wrong. And besides WHY WON'T THE GLUE FULLY CURE UNDER UV!? I used the supplied USB cable, and a powerful Samsung USB wall charger so I know the light isn't "weak." I will admit that the screen has stopped moving around as of today, so something has sorta cured. But the edges are still wet, and leave an oily residue when touched, and look furry because there is so much tacky, sticky residue still oozing out.
What a horrible mess. It took me hours to clean everything up, and there is still glue in every tiny crevice of my Note8. I hope I got my S-Pen out and wiped off in time - it's still working, for now.
Always take your S-Pen out first!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My s-pen was in the whole time too, nothing got in mine so not sure why it did with yours. You're right though, even with the tape/sponges the glue still goes everywhere. I cured it a little before moving it, and that did help keep the screen in place. Then I cured a little more afterwards and let it sit for a while... You can just carefully rinse/wash off the excess glue after. End result was good in my case, but the process can definitely be a messy experience.
sefrcoko said:
My s-pen was in the whole time too, nothing got in mine so not sure why it did with yours. You're right though, even with the tape/sponges the glue still goes everywhere. I cured it a little before moving it, and that did help keep the screen in place. Then I cured a little more afterwards and let it sit for a while... You can just carefully rinse/wash off the excess glue after. End result was good in my case, but the process can definitely be a messy experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know I read you can wash it off somewhere else, but I thought it was oily. Is it really water soluble? I feel like bathing my phone is only going to make things worse right now haha.
ffolkes said:
I know I read you can wash it off somewhere else, but I thought it was oily. Is it really water soluble? I feel like bathing my phone is only going to make things worse right now haha.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It definitely feels oily, but I didn't end up having too much trouble getting it off in the end. I just ran the faucet and used my hand to wipe away what I could, rinsed hand, and repeated. Maybe a drop of hand soap at the worst, but I don't remember now. Never put the phone directly under water though...why tempt fate .Thankfully I don't have to do that more often lol
ffolkes said:
I need to vent, I'm so pissed off. Back in January I got a Whitestone Dome when they were on sale. I was happy with my plastic protector at the time, so I didn't install it right away. Fast forward to last night...
I watched a solid dozen Note8 install videos on YouTube, have been reading for months on reddit and xda all the other threads, and executed my installation perfectly according to the directions. I even taped off the earpiece just in case. Not to brag, but I'm usually really good with this sort of stuff. It ended in disaster due to the poor quality control of this product and its company.
I have read quite a few horror stories on social media about Whitestone's products, but I assumed if I was very careful I could do a successful install. WRONG. The supplied vial of glue was way too much, and after perfectly applying the glue and dropping the glass on top, capillary action pulled the glue nicely across the screen and I was very pleased. It looked beautiful. After waiting the full 15 seconds top and 15 seconds bottom, I removed my Note8 from the tray as instructed. To my horror, TONS of liquid excess glue was dripping down the sides. My S-Pen was DRIPPING with glue! There was glue everywhere, even in the bottom of the plastic jig. AND THE SCREEN WAS STILL LOOSE! After trying my best to clean up that huge mess, I followed the instructions to do the "secondary" cure. AFTER MULTIPLE MINUTES UNDER THE SUPPLIED UV LIGHT, THE GLUE IS STILL WET! My phone STINKS of this chemical, and every crevice of it is oozing this glue that will not cure under the UV light. I was meticulous about everything, there is nothing I did wrong. And besides WHY WON'T THE GLUE FULLY CURE UNDER UV!? I used the supplied USB cable, and a powerful Samsung USB wall charger so I know the light isn't "weak." I will admit that the screen has stopped moving around as of today, so something has sorta cured. But the edges are still wet, and leave an oily residue when touched, and look furry because there is so much tacky, sticky residue still oozing out.
What a horrible mess. It took me hours to clean everything up, and there is still glue in every tiny crevice of my Note8. I hope I got my S-Pen out and wiped off in time - it's still working, for now.
Always take your S-Pen out first!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What a nightmare. I fear using glue that might run down and block all my holes and crevices LOL.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I had this issue when I was installing the Whitestone Dome on my S8+.
The sides and back of the phone were dripping with the greasy ass glue.
However, I've had no issues since with my Note 8.
I would like to add that when i was applying it to the S8+ I don't think the surface was entirely flat- the tip I saw was to use the glue vials and put them on the table to see if they'd roll; I did this until I had a perfectly level table.
I managed to install the protector flawlessly on my Note 8 without any issues.
I'm sure if you contact Whitestone they'll be able to provide you with another vial if you've used both.
Are you certain that the screen was dry before you applied it?
Definitely not trying to be contradictory
But for my Note 8 the install was easy, no mess, no problems...... Went just like instructions
S-Pen still works, and I must say the glass looks fantastic. Edges aren't great, but I vigorously rubbed the sides in one direction with a cloth. Over and over, until eventually the ragged glue on the edges sorta wiped away. I'm sure there will be problems down the road, but it's good for now at least. I also used some scraps of tape to try to remove the excess tacky glue that didn't wipe away. Just have to remember to use 1/3 less glue next time. Maybe remove the vial right after removing the second cap, rather than waiting for it to completely empty out.
ive replace my whitestone twice already. never any issue with the install. I wish the glass was stronger though. First crack was a legit saved my phone. someone bumped me on accident and screen down onto a bunch of pebbles. left junks missing from the protector but totally safe screen. last one was fell of my bed and chipped of the whole top edges and a nice crack across. but.... still saved the phone so i'm loyal
I hate to necro this thread considering its two years old but I just had the same painful experience on my Note 10+ 5G LOCA somehow managed to leak into my SPen slot. If you're thinking of buying this screen protector. Don't. You're better off with nothing.
Edit: After re-registering my fingerprints for the 3rd time it is working much faster and the SPen has seemed to loosen up after repeatedly taking it out and putting it back in and now appears to charge just fine.