I have had this phone for about 1.5 years now and it held up,it was running very well but it always had an overheating problem,you have probably seen me all over the forums asking how can I lower the temperature of the phone lol.
Well it has become less apparent with the latest build of Lineage,only when I am using Snapchat but that doesn't matter.
But now what started happening is my back glass is unsticking,the bottom part to be exact,I believe this is because the device heated up so much it weakened the adhesive.
So I am asking now with what material I can re-stick the back glass properly since I don't want it to hang like that for no reason.
Use fevibond
You can use fevibond(Synthetic Rubber Base Glue). I used it to stick front screen peeling off from top left corner.
Dhgr8 said:
You can use fevibond(Synthetic Rubber Base Glue). I used it to stick front screen peeling off from top left corner.
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Could I use something like superglue or something similar to that?
Dinkec27 said:
Could I use something like superglue or something similar to that?
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No, that would make it tough/impossible to separate it for repairs.
Please refer to this thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/z3-compact/help/sony-xperia-z3-compacts-display-peeling-t3156347
Dinkec27 said:
Could I use something like superglue or something similar to that?
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Nope I wouldn't do that, as super glue is not flexible. I have glued both screen and back glass with B7000 adhesive (most repair shops use it specifically for displays) and it hasn't moved since. That was done some 4 months ago. If you put enough glue on the frame (be careful not to leave empty spots, cover the complete frame with glue), of course avoid dripping of the sides into the frame, I am sure that it won't peel off again, especially the back glass.
I am waiting for new screen to arrive, so I'll have to re-do everything again, of course with B7000.
Dinkec27 said:
Could I use something like superglue or something similar to that?
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Never use superglue, it will not last long and will ruin your phone, as superglue's main ingredient disintegrates plastic...
I've also used red 3m tape, does not hold!
Bought B7000 glue, will use it once my new battery arrives, so using useless 3m red tape in the mean time...
-Update-
B7000 Glue works!!!
I heavily flash, test etc. and no matter how hot the phone gets, it's sealed and does not reopen.
I cleaned the surfaces, I applied the glue, and did not care about making a mess (the glue is easily removable for future repairs) and did not care about it oozing out either, just made sure that it covered that border.
I did not use any heat, and it was still cold here.
I then used clothes pegs, 3 on each edge (I was worried about too much pressure, but it was not an issue)
I did not turn my phone on at all, and waited for 48 hours, before removing the pegs then turning it on.
Please note: the z3c is bendable, especially in jeans pockets, I use an anodized bumper to keep it straight. And using tempered glass on both sides is recommended.
***I did however buy a new battery, as my previous battery seemed fat, and I also removed the nfc sticker, but not sure if that is necessary.
Related
hi folks. i managed to replace my galaxy note front glass with a new one i got from ebay for 19$ and i want to make a step by step guide on how it can be done.
i did it using common tools and a s load of pacience and attention.
the tools i used are: heat gun with hi and low settings, exacto knife set,small phillips and flat screwdrivers, goo gone, and optional a screen protector.
first take the phone apart as it's describet in countless of threads and youtube videos. you should end up with the screen assembly shown in the first picture.
now we have to separate the glassscreen from the frame it sits on. for this we fire up the heat gun.
a few words about using the heat gun.
-my gun had 2 settings: low and high. during all this process i used it on low.
-don't put the gun directly and/or close to the thinn plastic wires that hold the two connectors.
- dont hold the gun in the same place more than 3 seconds, instead swipe the gun around the spot and the screen like u would do with a paint brush when painting.
- dont hold the gun too close, that is closer than 3 inch
-concentrate on the spot u working at but try to heat up the whole screen assembly, as it has to give away from all the points kind of at the same time, and not just the point u working at.
- dont overheat the screen as this will damage the amoled. thats how i got the two yellow spots on my screen. first one by accident and second one intentionaly to see if indeed the overheating is what caused it.
A very good rule for this is dont heat the phone more than you can bear to touch it cause afterall you have to hold the phone while working on it...
the way i did it is :
-i heated up the whole screen assembly, back and front, for a minute or two
- than i started to stick the tip of the exacto knife between the glass and the metal edge that sorrounds it. i started from the upper right corner, the side where the front camera is. see photo 2.
the goal is to unstick the glass from the frame. in photo 3 the frame and the screen is shown without the upper glass. this photo was taken after i finished everything, thats why the screen can be seen inside the frame. but i posted it to show the black sticky tape that its used to hold the glass to the frame. i think is the same kind of sticky tape thats used in all the touchphones including iphone to hold the front glass to the rest of the phone. in photo 4 i unsticked some of the tape to show it better. this tape is the main thing that holds the the glass to the frame. the other thing that hold the screen to the frame is some sticky glue on the back of the screen. but this is much softer and thiner glue. this is the reason why i say to heat up the whole screen assemby including the backside, to make it easyer to unstuck the glass and scren thats glued to it.
- once you get a bit of a foothold in the upper corner between and the glassand the frame you continue the folowing procedure again and again until the glass and screen detaches from the frame:
-every 2 minutes or so , when i feel the asemby cooled down, i'd heat up the whole assembly for 5 seconds or so, than concentrate on the spot i worked on for another 5 seconds, than move/push the exacto knife a bit. dont force it. after a while youl get a feel of it. if the exacto knife happend to be out, i would heat up the blade after heating up everything else, and than put the blade in.
prevent the freed parts from sticking back to the frame by using the rest of the exacto knife blades as shims.
once it detaches it should look like photo 5- the glass glued to the screen.
- now we have to detach or unglue the glass from the screen.
procedure is the same: start somewhere, heat, put knife in, etc... i used a second knife as shim folowing the first knife, and after avery couple moves i would get the knife out and wipe off the epoxy glue. heat the blade and put it back in.
when finished you should have something like photo 6 and 7: free screen covered in glue epoxy residue.
- now we have to get rid of the glue residue. i took the bulk of it usinga flat exacto knife blades like the one in photo 8 and 10. just warm the place a bit with the air gun and scrape it off with the blade. to clean what was left i used a bit of goo gone on a pice of cloth or napkin photo 9.
cleaned screen can be seen in photo 11 - sadly out of focus.
if u are like me and r impatient to test the screen you can just connect with just the side connector like in photo 12 and 13. the upper connector is for the s pen digitizer. side connector is for the screen and touch digitizer.
now all that's left is to put the phone back together except leave the new glass for last.
-first thing is to put the screen(without the glass) back on the frame. try to center it just right, so that ther's a little bit of space between the sides of the screen and the frame.
at this point all that will hold the screen to the frameis the thin layer of glue on the back of the screen. after centering and lowering the screen in the frame procede to put the phone back together folowing in reverse order the same steps used to disasambe it. when finished you should end up with the whole functioning phone except the front glass -as seen in photo 14.
now you can chose to trim and put a screen protector on the scree so as to fill the empty space between the screen and the glass - the space where the glue was, or you can just leave it empty. you can put a screen protector anytime after by removing the glass. which should be much easier to remove now that its held in place only by the blach sticky tape on the edges. just use some suction cap to remove it, starting at an age, and remove it like fliping a page. see photo 16. i used the note for 2 weeks without the screen protector in the empty space and it worked without a problem onlt thing was that when i pushed hard the glass would touch the screen and leave a bit of dirt in that place. thats why i decided to put the screen protector to fill the void. in photo 15 i raised the screen protector to make it visible in the photo.
if you are like me and worry that somehow the glass might fall off the phone you can always get a hard plastic case for the phone, like the one in the pics. it's made of 2 parts. one goes on the back one on the front and they snap togeter around the phone. this will hold the glass in place no matter what while it will also protect the phone.the case is in photos 17 and 18. i got this one of ebay for 8$ and free shipping.
the last thing to be done is:
for some reaseon the touch screen became much more sensitive after removing the glue so you need to lover the touch sensitivity. for this get the touchscreentune app from the market. it works with galaxy note and galaxy s2. put the sensitivity from the recomended 25 to 50.
the best thing about this procedure is that i dont have to worry about the f ing glass anymore. if it brakes again i'l just order another one and in under 2 minutes i can replace it. all i have to do is get the phone case off, put a suction cap on , , remove the old glass , and put the new glass. that's it.
because it takes 4 to 8 hours i would recommend the process to be done in 3-4 sessions as people would get tired after 2 hours of work and tend to lose focus, attention, patience and start to push to get it faster done, and that's when bad stuff happens like yellow spot burn on the screen or small scratches. another thing about scratches, even if u manage to scrach the screen dont worry to much as the scratches are almost invisible when the screen turns on. youl see what i mean ....
i do have one question: WHY DID SAMSUNG DECIDE TO GLUE THE SCREEN TO THE GLASS INSTEAD OF HAVING THEM SEPARATE LIKE ALL THE OTHER TOUCHPHONES?
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
blank for future use
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anonymous572 said:
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
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what kind of glue did you use? where did u get the glue from? how did u do it?
i didnt glue the glass back to the screen. i just put the glass on the frame. to fill the void where the glue was i trimed a regular screen protector and put it inbetween the glass and the screen. but it works same without it.
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
pboesboes said:
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
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Nothing is impossible with the right tool and know-how . The glue could probably be uncured with a heat gun, just like ipad. The challenge is not damage the panel and make sure it is dust free after put back the replacement.
It is said impossible because of the difficulty involved. If you can't manage to install a screen protector with perfect alignment and zero dust spike, this task is not for you.
@drevilatwork Thank you for writing this step by step guide!
I dropped my phone last night and it landed face down, cracking the glass.
I'm so upset, but I don't think I have the skills or the tools to do this job myself. I am relieved to learn that the glass can be replaced, but do you know whether the Samsung agents are likely to be able to do this?
they probably wont do it. but you can try showing this thread to some technician or phone repair shop and they might do it for you. they also might charge you a lot to the point where it might be more convenient to just buy a new 260$ screen.
looks scary dude
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
Its worth a try, since screen replacement costs 230 euros.
kawgirlval69 said:
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
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actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
Why different prices for all the same lenses in this shop ?
drevilatwork said:
actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
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as i said good luck with it and hope you make some money doing it..... ive successfully done the same thing myself but other than it will never look good like a factory screen (not even close), the amount of time it takes to make it look anywhere near acceptable (not like a 10 dollar repair) is big and that makes the repair not really worthwhile doing it for anyone but yourself and even then who spends 700-800 dollars on something and does a repair that makes it look cheap... then theres the whole ordeal of the membrane youre taking the adhesive off of along with the HUGE chance of damaging it.. it is placed with precision and adhered for a reason along with being dust and scratch free... this is a repair that just wont last because things will start functioning improperly for multiple reasons...
im not knocking you or anyone who tries this..im just trying to emphasize the dangers, downfalls and the probability of it being a legit solid repair. also the resale value when the next greatest thing comes along... just beware....
Hmmmm
Well chaps I hate to disagree here, but after speaking to the technical bods at Samsung it appears that the OLED is NOT glued to the glass, but the glass is laminated and bonded in, much like a car windscreen. My screen got broken the other day and I have read the 2 posts on XDA regarding this. Now if you go and have a look at the pics of the other post
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1487716
you can clearly see the OLED, although broken, seperated from the glass with no sign of any glue. The reason it broke is that upon heating the glass you will melt the glue, which will then stick to the edges of the OLED and if you pry it at the wrong place/time/too hard/whatever you will break the OLED as it is glued to the bezel itself. So when my glass arrives I am going to attempt to remove the glass using fishing line and pulling it between the glass and the bezel and OLED to release it, the same way as I used to remove car windscreens, and post the results here. I have also been told that the reason for the sticky "epoxy" mess that you encountered in this postis from melting the plastic on the back of the glass (which is the lamination!) by using too much heat.....I mean come on, a heat gun is a bit excessive!! Prying the screen out a bit at a time might work, but will surely end in tears, where as cutting the cold adhesive with a fine nylon cable, which wont scratch the OLED, might just work. I'll keep you posted on my results.
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
pboesboes said:
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
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this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
kawgirlval69 said:
this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
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What do you mean? One of what?
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
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I know how a digitizer is made.
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
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I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
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The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
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I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
pboesboes said:
What do you mean? One of what?
I know how a digitizer is made.
I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
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i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION...
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
kawgirlval69 said:
i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
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The sentence made no sense considering what it was replying to. Not my fault you were unclear/ambiguous.
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
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Ok?
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
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Reading is very good, but you can't assume everyone in a public forum has read every single post of yours and remembers every detail. What isn't helping is the lack of proper punctuation and formatting which make your posts unpleasant to read.
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
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Replacement screens are generally OEM parts.
It might appear I'm in a hole, but that's only because I live in Holland and am below sea level. I assure you I haven't done any digging.
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
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I wasn't suggesting to use superglue or epoxy, read it again.
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION
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I get that, and appreciate your concern. However, you should understand that some people like to try things even when the chance of success is not very high. You seem to be one of us in that regard (you attempted repairs yourself too, right?), so I don't see why it upsets you so much.
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
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I don't care if you play nice or not. I appreciate honesty. Now for some honesty in return: you're not helping in this thread.
All you do is say people's ideas are stupid without giving arguments that aren't arguments from authority. And I would very much appreciate it if you would stop misrepresenting my posts (intentional or not).
So I got my new Z3C and was thinking: what if we can make flaps and audio port more waterproof?
Doing pressure sensor test I get reading around 1000 and it's increasing by about 30-40 when I press against screen with closed flaps. But it normalizes after 1-2 seconds and goes back to initial reading meaning tiny amount of air escapes. Does it mean my phone is not totally waterproof? Don't know.
Since this phone is just fresh-water proof (meaning no using in pool or sea) and I really want to use it worry-free in all kind of water that I dare to go in myself I really want to improve waterproofness.
I'm not worried about front and back since glass should be all.kind-of-things-proof. This leaves sd card and sim card covers, audio jack, mic holes and speakers.
So what I thought of was to "grease" flaps' rubber o-rings with rubber compatible oil/grease to make better contact with phone body or use some kind of silicone spread around rubber contact area before closing flaps to have semi-permanent seal and be still able to open and scrub extra stuff off without doing much damage.
For audio jack I thought to make some kind of plug - like pressy button but with a bit bigger "head" that has soft sticky rubber underneath so when pressed in it makes a seal with the edge of audio jack or even plug that is covered with silicone all the way.
Speakers and mic holes could be protected with bits of strong adhesive tape - it's easy to get sticky stuff off the glass and it'll be possible to hear some sound even with speakers covered. Not sure about mic holes because side plastic has matte finish but some strong adhesive should still stick?
So the question - has anyone tried something remotely related? Is it thinkable? Have I missed anything important? What materials (grease, silicone) should I use?
If anyone has done something similar? Probably... But no one ever posted about it on this forum. You can use the phone in the sea and swimming pool, as long as you rinse the phone afterwards. As for modifying the phone, I wouldn't do it. It might cause you to lose your warranty.
In terms of waterproofing the phone even more, I'd look at waterproof cases made for other phones with almost similar dimensions and see if you can do something about the case instead.
Sent from my D5803
Dsteppa said:
You can use the phone in the sea and swimming pool, as long as you rinse the phone afterwards. As for modifying the phone, I wouldn't do it.
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Plenty of stories of people going in the water, damaging their phone and fighting with sony about warranty.
It's hardly modifying, adhesive sticker on glass is easily removed and thin film of silicone should be also easily removable.
Dsteppa said:
It might cause you to lose your warranty.
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Yeah... getting water inside causes that too.
Dsteppa said:
In terms of waterproofing the phone even more, I'd look at waterproof cases made for other phones with almost similar dimensions and see if you can do something about the case instead.
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That's the option. But I haven't seen any slim waterproof case that could be comfortably used all the time.
Anyway, curiosity is strong and I'll most likely try different options.
PS. can someone test pressure sensor - is reading staying high when screen is pressed or it fades back to normal with all covers closed?
I've just used mine in pool all weekends since I bought it without any issue and even without afraid of doing that! The same with my wife's Z1!
And I'm contantly opening/closing its usb port due my xposed modules development (debugging purposes)! Maybe some unlucky day I will screw it... who knows!
Ofc we always need to be sure all ports are properly closed before going to have fun!
kalamees1 said:
Plenty of stories of people going in the water, damaging their phone and fighting with sony about warranty.
It's hardly modifying, adhesive sticker on glass is easily removed and thin film of silicone should be also easily removable.
PS. can someone test pressure sensor - is reading staying high when screen is pressed or it fades back to normal with all covers closed?
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Sorry, I forgot about the pressure sensor part, it's normal that the numbers go back to normal after you lifted your finger, it works like that for everyone.
If my mind serves me right, I've seen Sony ads with the Z3C being thrown in a pool or something similar, so a pool really shouldn't be a problem. And yes of course people will have to fight for their cause at Sony, they won't just put any phone under warranty, else people would exploit that.
Dsteppa said:
Sorry, I forgot about the pressure sensor part, it's normal that the numbers go back to normal after you lifted your finger, it works like that for everyone.
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I probably expressed myself bit vaguely. Thing is that pressure reading on my phone returns back to normal WHILE HOLDING screen under pressure. Initially pressing screen creates greater pressure inside the phone, reading rises but air escapes quite quickly (1-2seconds) and pressure reading normalises. After releasing finger screen pressure sensor shows lower readings for a second until extra air seeps inside to equalise pressure again.
Hope it's clear enough.
Also, does it mean that I got less waterproof phone that it should be?
I dunno about you but i've been using my camera in the pool for a while now and even for hours at times
Sent from my D5833 using XDA Free mobile app
I've used mine under water as well. OP if you're really worried about it you can send it off to liquipel and have them make the phone even more waterproof
Hi hope someone can offer some advice, I have replaced the screen on my Z3 compact. Screen works fine but it is lifting and not sticking. I have tried different types of tape, I have applied tape to the edge of the screen itself and the frame it's still lifting. Please can someone offer some advice
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
Any one got any advice, this must be an issue somewhere.
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
ali.gore said:
Any one got any advice, this must be an issue somewhere.
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
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Consider buying a B-7000 glue, it is used for displays mostly, I was advised by a friend to use it, since my screen has unglued as well, and he has already repaired couple of Z3/Z3c devices with it, and there were no reported lifted screens since than. For the back panel, you can use double sided tape, but adding B-7000 glue on one side (to avoid cracking sounds, depending on the used tape probably). You can do a bit of searching on Youtube for repair videos, I recall watching some with the mentioned B-7000 glue, easy to find.
I haven't done it myself, but I will very soon, dust has filled my front cam, and proximity sensor.
Good luck.
Cirra92 said:
Consider buying a B-7000 glue, it is used for displays mostly, I was advised by a friend to use it, since my screen has unglued as well, and he has already repaired couple of Z3/Z3c devices with it, and there were no reported lifted screens since than. For the back panel, you can use double sided tape, but adding B-7000 glue on one side (to avoid cracking sounds, depending on the used tape probably). You can do a bit of searching on Youtube for repair videos, I recall watching some with the mentioned B-7000 glue, easy to find.
I haven't done it myself, but I will very soon, dust has filled my front cam, and proximity sensor.
Good luck.
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other solution than b7000 ? from what i read on forums, after a while also this glue become "unglued"...clean, unclean, is still da same.
op3n said:
other solution than b7000 ? from what i read on forums, after a while also this glue become "unglued"...clean, unclean, is still da same.
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I think B7000 will get the job done. I have used it for my device and it has been a month already, screen and back plate haven't moved a bit, its like new. One thing to remember though, you have to make sure the whole frame is COMPLETELY covered with glue, otherwise it will not be enough to hold the screen. I made a mess at first try, because I missed some spots and the screen lifted on sides, next time though, I've checked 3 times for any empty spots and applied glue to those spots, now everything is perfect. Of course, you should cover frame only, avoid applying that much so that glue is dripping inside the phone itself.
Good luck
Cirra92 said:
I think B7000 will get the job done. I have used it for my device and it has been a month already, screen and back plate haven't moved a bit, its like new. One thing to remember though, you have to make sure the whole frame is COMPLETELY covered with glue, otherwise it will not be enough to hold the screen. I made a mess at first try, because I missed some spots and the screen lifted on sides, next time though, I've checked 3 times for any empty spots and applied glue to those spots, now everything is perfect. Of course, you should cover frame only, avoid applying that much so that glue is dripping inside the phone itself.
Good luck
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Gooood,ill give it a shot. But i was thinking if must remove back cover and the screen for glue only a corner...the back cover doesnt have any problem, only the display in left corner is unglued. And if i must to remove thats, i must buy and that adezive black or simple use only b7000 ? Thanks
I have some of the B-7000. Stuck the screen down over a week ago appears to be fine. The only issue I have is that I think the glue has squeezed onto the front camera, the camera is now blurred. I don't use the front one so it's not a big problem.
Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
op3n said:
Gooood,ill give it a shot. But i was thinking if must remove back cover and the screen for glue only a corner...the back cover doesnt have any problem, only the display in left corner is unglued. And if i must to remove thats, i must buy and that adezive black or simple use only b7000 ? Thanks
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I have used the glue, it's fine, you don't need stickers
You can try applying the glue only in that corner as well, but I'm not sure how well will that fix the issue.
I had to remove the screen anyway to clean the notification led cutout and front camera, so I didn't care for the back plate sticker.
Cirra92 said:
I have used the glue, it's fine, you don't need stickers
You can try applying the glue only in that corner as well, but I'm not sure how well will that fix the issue.
I had to remove the screen anyway to clean the notification led cutout and front camera, so I didn't care for the back plate sticker.
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go0o0d thanks man
Hi there. A week ago I bought Xiaomi Mi A2. Now I noticed my screen is scratched! In center of screen I can see all the moves my fingers do (look at the photo). It doesnt come off, no matter what cloth I rub it. Isnt A2 supposed to have GG5?
https://imgur.com/a/KfH7ziy
Can someone relate to this problem?
THX
I understand how hairline scratch occurs, but this?
EDIT: After few minutes I dont thing its scratched. By the looks and feels on polished screen it looks like some kind of ,,glue" overfilled frome side of the screen and was wiped to the right. I never used any protector except the original sticker but I know the digitizer and glass is somehow glued together so some excess of this maybe. Will try to put protector on it, if it is still visible then RMA
scratched wouldn't be covered under any warranty.
i think these only use gg3
in original posters case the pictures just look like finger smudges to me in person i bet its different but if that does move about and shows up when screen is on it may be fault panel so return for replacement.
faults do happen the % is low but they still happen no one or company can stop this they do test units before shipping
mortmaru said:
scratched wouldn't be covered under any warranty.
i think these only use gg3
in original posters case the pictures just look like finger smudges to me in person i bet its different but if that does move about and shows up when screen is on it may be fault panel so return for replacement.
faults do happen the % is low but they still happen no one or company can stop this they do test units before shipping
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GG3 was more scratch resistant than the GG5 so A2 is more likely to use GG5. As for the OP, it's either glue as you said which you could remove with some rubbing alcohol. If that doesn't work, then it could probably be the Oleophobic coating which could be a manufacturing error or you had some type of chemical on your hands that messed it up.
Mixz1890 said:
GG3 was more scratch resistant than the GG5 so A2 is more likely to use GG5. As for the OP, it's either glue as you said which you could remove with some rubbing alcohol. If that doesn't work, then it could probably be the Oleophobic coating which could be a manufacturing error or you had some type of chemical on your hands that messed it up.
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Since I dont work or use any chemicals in my life other than basic detergent for dishes I doubt that. Anyway I tried cleaning it off with isopropyl alcohol and sticker-glue remover with no luck. The stains are permanent, invisible when screen on. I tried rubbing it with credit card slightly and I can clearly feel that it is on the surface of glass. If I completely polish the screen with glasses cloth, the stains disappear and reappear when I slide my fingers over the area and ,,grease" it a little.
Contacted the seller, returning phone and getting my money back since I am positive it is a manufacturing problem.
Infernus-cz said:
Since I dont work or use any chemicals in my life other than basic detergent for dishes I doubt that. Anyway I tried cleaning it off with isopropyl alcohol and sticker-glue remover with no luck. The stains are permanent, invisible when screen on. I tried rubbing it with credit card slightly and I can clearly feel that it is on the surface of glass. If I completely polish the screen with glasses cloth, the stains disappear and reappear when I slide my fingers over the area and ,,grease" it a little.
Contacted the seller, returning phone and getting my money back since I am positive it is a manufacturing problem.
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No it's just the oleophobic coating. This is normal for GG5
IjazCI said:
Okay, did you clean your phone using alcohol or by any hand sanitizer.
I used a hand sanitizer to clean my Mi A1 screen and i lost the coating .
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No I didnt do any of that. What coating do you mean? Dont think the glass is coated...
IjazCI said:
oleophobic coating.
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Well you're probably right. I had no idea something like this exists. Put that in Google and found many pictures of worn off coating even on Samsungs. But after a week? What a shame
BTW other than what Iwrote, there easnt any chemical on the screen
EDIT: eg this looks exactly like the thing on my phone: https://forums.windowscentral.com/attachments/nokia-lumia-930/86096d1414705779t-img_0535.jpg
Installed the Whitestone dome and it came out perfect.
Just wondering if it makes any difference to use the curing light more than recommended?
Will too much UV light damage the adhesive or glass?
I've already done a few extra minutes.
Just don't look at it...
blackhawk said:
Just don't look at it...
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I don't understand?
It's fine.
Short wavelength UV can damage your eyes... never look at it. Including the light reflected of objects illuminated by it.
Welder's flash is painful... think sand in your eyes.
The extra uv light will do nothing to the adhesive. The recommended ammount of uv blue light by White Stone is more then enough to make a great fit.
bartjeh1991 said:
The extra uv light will do nothing to the adhesive. The recommended ammount of uv blue light by White Stone is more then enough to make a great fit.
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Their switches are cheap so sometimes the diode flickers. Overkill may be the best solution.
I'm not impressed with Whitestone at all. Their customer support is terrible and it's all off shore shipped and "supported". No phone support and rude, slow email support.
A wretched company to deal with, one of the worst.
Been there, done that... to hell with Whitestone.
Does the adhesive become stronger with more exposure time?
Super strong adhesive can be a problem in the future when you try to remove an old tempered glass screen protector.
I've heard horror stories where people have trouble with trying to chisel away at the old adhesive and glass mess. I wonder if their problem was over-curing the adhesive by using the light too long?
I went by the book for exposure curing time, and it was very easy to remove the cracked screen protector - even with a crack in it, I could still easily peel it off because the adhesive was willing to let go.
However, I've never tested this. But it just seems like the time limits are provided for a reason, and are not given in terms of "at least" but rather "for this long".
When it's cured it's cured. The polymerization is done. Under curing however would be an issue.
UV does degrade many materials over time but this isn't near a strong enough source and a few extra minutes is insignificant.
As the polymer adhesive ages it may degrade making removal more difficult than when it was first applied.
Personally I don't like this protector at all. It's a pain from start to finish including removal at times. My stupid cheap easy wet apply urethane screen protector has been on for over 9 months. It's kept the screen from being marred.
It's can be easily removed and is much easier to apply. Only $5 a pop. I still have 3 left because I never thought they be so easy to apply (expected to destroy one) and that even if the application went well it would only last 2 or months. Not.
I have the Whitestone Dome Glass on my s21U and got a chip on it yesterday and tried to take it off. It was a horror show and a large part of it stuck to the middle of the screen. I thought my phone was ruined. I had to take a hot hairdryer which softened the glue and slowly pick bits of it off. This is the first time I've ever had this happen after using many different UV protector on different phones! I did put a new one on but when I take this one off I'll be much more cautious to use a hairdryer and try and remove it all in one piece .
Batfink33 said:
I have the Whitestone Dome Glass on my s21U and got a chip on it yesterday and tried to take it off. It was a horror show and a large part of it stuck to the middle of the screen. I thought my phone was ruined. I had to take a hot hairdryer which softened the glue and slowly pick bits of it off. This is the first time I've ever had this happen after using many different UV protector on different phones! I did put a new one on but when I take this one off I'll be much more cautious to use a hairdryer and try and remove it all in one piece .
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That's nasty.
How long was it on?
99% Isopropyl alcohol be worth a shot but probably be ineffective.
Be real careful when using heat guns. I've used them a lot for electronic assembly and things can heat up quick, too quick.
The display is literally tens of thousands of heat sensitive semiconductors.
My solution is to use a case with slightly raised guards around the whole display. The Zizo Bolt has protected my 10+ very well. The Gorilla IQ Sheild has done the rest to protect the screen. The screen is fairly robust but needs protection from scratches. Urethane does a surprisingly good job at this. It's self healing to a certain extent so it actually looks better after a night's rest in areas of high usage ie the keyboard. Rather strange to observe.
blackhawk said:
That's nasty.
How long was it on?
99% Isopropyl alcohol be worth a shot but probably be ineffective.
Be real careful when using heat guns. I've used them a lot for electronic assembly and things can heat up quick, too quick.
The display is literally tens of thousands of heat sensitive semiconductors.
My solution is to use a case with slightly raised guards around the whole display. The Zizo Bolt has protected my 10+ very well. The Gorilla IQ Sheild has done the rest to protect the screen. The screen is fairly robust but needs protection from scratches. Urethane does a surprisingly good job at this.
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It was only on for 3 weeks. I maybe didn't remove it properly as I just tried to lift it off rather than put some card or something under it and prise it off but as I said, I've never had any problems like that before with UV glue protectors, they always usually easily come off.
Batfink33 said:
It was only on for 3 weeks. I maybe didn't remove it properly as I just tried to lift it off rather than put some card or something under it and prise it off but as I said, I've never had any problems like that before with UV glue protectors, they always usually easily come off.
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The damage may have scored it leaving a weak spot.
Glass is a very strange substance; neither a true solid nor liquid. An amorphous solid.
It can behave in seemingly unpredictable ways. The Pascal's law applies to it. Glazer's can use this to their advantage to cut glass.