Friendly warning -
Do not apply water (or probably any other liquids) to the screen. There is a very significant risk of it entering the LCD layers. The plastic frame is not sealed at the bottom where the "n" button is. The other three sides have adhesive tape applied. Why they didn't seal up the bottom is a real curiosity.
I used just a wet paper towel with some dish soap on it because I wanted to remove all dirt before applying a screen protector. This was enough to get water in and it went almost all the way to the top of the LCD and was very obviously visible. The screen wiping probably helped it get up in there. I was horrified, of course.
I tried blowing a fan at it for 24 hours and it did nothing. So I took it apart to see if it was possible to separate the LCD glass but it is not possible without breaking because there is an extremely thin layer of glass in there that breaks if flexed. I also noted that there is an oil layer to ensure a transparent connection between the layers of glass. I did this a month ago so I'm not sure but I believe there are 3 layers to the panel.
Actually this got me to go out and try a Acer Iconia A100 for a bit. I returned it though because the LCD is junk and the battery life is not so great. But wow it was so fast. Still, I'd rather have slow and an IPS screen than a TN screen with bad viewing angles. So I ended up buying one of those $150 Overstock.com refurb Nook Colors. $150 washing experience disaster.
The "irony" of this is that I had run without a screen protector for 6 months and managed to destroy the unit when working on applying a protector!
Did you try putting it in rice?
Sent from my LG Optimus V using Tapatalk
You never want to use water to clean electronics, that's pretty much the first thing one should learn owning any electronics. I prefer rubbing alcohol, if it does "get" anywhere it shouldn't, it'll dry very quickly and is less conductive than water.
One thing to remember is if you ever do get any of your electronics wet try submerging our device in rice overnight, it should absorb the water.
koopakid08 said:
Did you try putting it in rice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dry rice of course.. Or desiccant packs that can be found in pleather products, such as purses at Wal Mart, etc..
I regularly wipe my Nook down using a damp microfiber cloth, and it seems fine. I'd put the device on a horizontal surface, gently give the surface a swift wipe or two, and dry/polish it using yet another bit of cloth. I never needed to use soap, but I'd probably choose ethanol or isopropanol for more extensive cleaning, anyway. Drugstore alcohol tends to leave behind a visible residue (bitter, too... don't ask) so I like to mix my own cleaning "cocktail."
Hammer warning
Do not smash your Nook with a hammer! It will break it! WTF Barnes and Noble? WHY DIDN'T SOMEONE TELL ME????
swaaye said:
Friendly warning -
Do not apply water (or probably any other liquids) to the screen. There is a very significant risk of it entering the LCD layers. The plastic frame is not sealed at the bottom where the "n" button is. The other three sides have adhesive tape applied. Why they didn't seal up the bottom is a real curiosity.
I used just a wet paper towel with some dish soap on it because I wanted to remove all dirt before applying a screen protector. This was enough to get water in and it went almost all the way to the top of the LCD and was very obviously visible. The screen wiping probably helped it get up in there. I was horrified, of course.
I tried blowing a fan at it for 24 hours and it did nothing. So I took it apart to see if it was possible to separate the LCD glass but it is not possible without breaking because there is an extremely thin layer of glass in there that breaks if flexed. I also noted that there is an oil layer to ensure a transparent connection between the layers of glass. I did this a month ago so I'm not sure but I believe there are 3 layers to the panel.
Actually this got me to go out and try a Acer Iconia A100 for a bit. I returned it though because the LCD is junk and the battery life is not so great. But wow it was so fast. Still, I'd rather have slow and an IPS screen than a TN screen with bad viewing angles. So I ended up buying one of those $150 Overstock.com refurb Nook Colors. $150 washing experience disaster.
The "irony" of this is that I had run without a screen protector for 6 months and managed to destroy the unit when working on applying a protector!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
too bad about your nook. thanks for the heads up ^.^
Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
It was just amazingly easy to get water into the LCD. It is easier than it should be. If you were to accidentally spill a drink on it I think water would definitely enter. It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.
Invisishields are great!
swaaye said:
Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
It was just amazingly easy to get water into the LCD. It is easier than it should be. If you were to accidentally spill a drink on it I think water would definitely enter. It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Invisishields are great! Getting one of those put on fixes the no seal at the bottom, and prevents the seep through the screen cover issue. (BTB, the screen cover is a porous plastic over the glass.)
mwray said:
Invisishields are great! Getting one of those put on fixes the no seal at the bottom, and prevents the seep through the screen cover issue. (BTB, the screen cover is a porous plastic over the glass.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would avoid any wet-applying screen protector...
Screenguard
I use screenguard all the time and it works great..takes off all the greasy finger prints and make Nook Glass shine...never had an issue with it..
Just be very careful how much goes near the bottom by the 'n' button. But good to hear you haven't seen it get in the LCD.
My NC still worked with the water inside but the water totally messed up the background of the LCD. Looked like a funky puddle in the background. Damn did that suck. You have no idea how disgusting it feels to have ruined the NC only because I wanted to finally put on a screen protector! After 6 months of being bare screen I wanted to try to end the messy finger prints annoyance.
I use a little spritz of the cleaning solution that came with my glasses and wipe dry with the cloth that came with the Nook all the time. Never had an issue. Maybe I'll be a little more careful in the future.
One must use instant rice for drying out electronics. Regular rice is like mamory glands on a bull.
swaaye said:
Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good point. I almost forgot about that... The cloth I use tends to wick away the oils and such, so I never needed to use solvents other than water. Alcohol also exhibits less surface tension than water, and that might help it get into the LCD.
swaaye said:
It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm... is there any way to mod this thing to prevent that? Suddenly, a screen protector sounds like a good idea, though one would have to be very careful during cleaning.
swaaye said:
.... but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funny, I've used Windex over 6 times to clean off the screen of my Nook with no ill effects. I've sprayed it on the screen directly too and it's run down by the bottom.
Maybe I just haven't been liberal enough with my use of liquids. Next time I guess I will have to try the bathtub.
inportb said:
Hm... is there any way to mod this thing to prevent that? Suddenly, a screen protector sounds like a good idea, though one would have to be very careful during cleaning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After much research and scientific review I've come up with a mod that will prevent this. In fact with liberal application it may even make your nook WATERPROOF!!!
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Lol. Ya I have been thinking of silicone. It would probably be necessary to disassemble the NC to do that though. Silicone is really easy to make a mess with too.
I did some searching on NC water damage and I'm not alone it seems. Other tablets and phones I've used have better protection around the LCD. Nook Color engineers only sealed 3 sides with their design. There is a narrow rubber gasket that can be seen at the bottom but apparently it doesn't work so great.
Btw, Windex has ammonia in it and that can cloud plastics with enough exposure. Bad for LCDs with plastic surface.
so, i didnt see the OP respond to all the rice comments.....do you still have the nook and have you put it in a box/bag/tub of rice yet??
yourm0m1 said:
so, i didnt see the OP respond to all the rice comments.....do you still have the nook and have you put it in a box/bag/tub of rice yet??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No my original NC is dead because after 24 hours of ineffectual fan blowing I tried taking it apart and separating the LCD layers. Unfortunately there is an extremely thin pane of glass that breaks super easily. The LCD literally slides apart though. There's only some kind of oil layer between the 3 or so different glass layers in it (for transparency). No adhesive or sealant.
The rice idea sounds interesting but I'm not sure if it would work with how the water is pressed in there and also the oil layer that might seal the water in. The rice / desiccant idea sounds like a good way to dry out devices though.
swaaye said:
The rice idea sounds interesting but I'm not sure if it would work with how the water is pressed in there and also the oil layer that might seal the water in. The rice / desiccant idea sounds like a good way to dry out devices though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gotcha....it has been proven to work, hopefully you will never need to worry about it but in the future remember that as a first attempt (or with friends/family)
Related
Ok I got one of the anti-glare ones and I've got dust under it. The package says washable.....
I'm not too good with this but several websites say to use a little water in putting on one of these. Is it safe to do that with the Nook? Has anyone been able to put one on without getting dust under it?
Yes I have the anti glare on, with no dust and no water used.
The trick that I learned from applying screen covers on my Nexus, was if you get something underneath; lift it up, try not to get your fingers on the sticky side; and use a piece of scotch tape to lift off the dust from the sticky portion of the screen, then put it back down.
I had good luck installing the glossy protector. I didn't use water, I just scrubbed the screen with the felt that came in the packaging. Scrub it really well to get all the oil off (dont bare down really hard, just make multiple passes). Use clean hands while installing it. What I do is peal only the top 1/3 of the backing off, get it lined up on the screen (square to the top) and stick it down. Then slowly peal and press the remaining 2/3s. This way you never touch the sticky side, and you limit its exposure to incidental crud.
Hope that helps if you get what I mean.
Good luck!
I had dust under mine too. Didn't have a problem with the smaller phone screen but a tablet screen is harder to do. I washed mine and shook as much water off as I could and applied it. As I pushed the bubbles and water out to the edges, I dried it off with a cloth to prevent it from seeping into the nook. My nook is still running for 5 mos now.
My screen has been naked from when I got it. To tell you the truth, this screen can take a hell of a beating as I've dropped my keys on it once or twice and still not a single scratch.
I put the BandN hardshield type protector on mine and its bulletproof. It's kind of stiff so it's pretty easy to get on straight and if you do as suggested with the backpeel off its pretty easy to get on without dust. I got a tiny cat hair under the corner but it's hardly noticeable and doesn't cause any glare at all. You can't tell my nook even has a cover without sticking your nose on it.
There is a thread about this in the nook accessory forums area. They say to clean your screen and apply it in a steam filled bathroom. The steam from the shower keeps the dust out of the air. It worked great for me.
Sent from my Nook Color using XDA APP
JF-WS6 said:
There is a thread about this in the nook accessory forums area. They say to clean your screen and apply it in a steam filled bathroom. The steam from the shower keeps the dust out of the air. It worked great for me.
Sent from my Nook Color using XDA APP
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I totally agree with this! After many Dsi and Ipod touch applications in my bathrom, I set off to do my NC in there too! The dust is so much less with the hot shower running, I got a Perfect install!
Ditto on the shower, only time ever that I got a perfect install was with a lil steam in the room. Also, if you want to go the extra mile, I read a tip somewhere that said to put a little water in a bowl, add a drop or two of dish soap and then dip your fingertips in it before applying. In a perfect world you would never touch the sticky side but I live far from there and with the soapy water deal helps a lot in repositioning since anything I touch dries clear.
You can actually get the whole sticky side SLIGHTY wet and just slide the thing around as long as you let it dry a day or so after install but I always worry about a drop of moisture sneaking in the side of the screen so I stick with finger tips.
Great...gonna have to peel it off tonight and try to reapply.
Used the anti-glare ones and got some dust under one. Just lifted the side with the dust and used some masking tape to get the dust stuck on the protector.
I applied my screen protector using the water trick. I used a little deionzed water. Just wet the screen protector, place it gently (you can move it around while it's wet). Then squeeze out the water using a card. While you do that collect the water off the edge using kitchen paper.
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
Which protector did you use? I got one off amazon and it's just slightly off so that there's a large spot in one corner that's off.
I installed the Nook protector and decided that all I gained was another surface to collect fingerprints. It's glossy and not matte like other protectors so fingerprints show up just the same.
It did appear to make the touchscreen a little more stable. I don't seem to get as many false touches. Of course, it could just be me.
I am not sure it was worth it other than protecting the screen from any significant gouges.
For those of you who have tried the various fixes on this forum and are having no luck with the screen lift issue, then this fix may be for you. I believe the screen lifting from the frame is caused by something internal that is pushing the screen upwards and causing the adhesive failure. This fix will use glue to re-establish the bond between the screen and the frame.
This fix involves taking the back cover off and removing some screws and creating a gap between the frame and screen for the glue. Oh, and while the glue cures, you will not be able to use your device for at least a few hours depending on the glue you use.
If this is too much for you or if you are addicted to your device and cannot put it down to let the glue cure, there is an alternate glue fix that is faster, does not require any disassembly, but it uses super-glue - which dries too fast for my liking. The post is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422 - Thanks to acegolfer for this.
*** DISCLAIMER ***
I'm not responsible if you break your device doing this fix.
Tools required
1. Guitar pick - or something flat to remove back cover
2. Small phillips head screwdriver
3. Toothpick
4. Glue
5. Damp cloth/ cloth - to wipe excess glue
6. Needle or tack - to apply glue.
7. Rubber bands, eraser, book - anything to keep screen in place and frame against the screen.
First things first. the glue I used is not super-glue, it is epoxy. Why? Because I've had much success using it, but not much luck with super-glue. See pic of the epoxy I used.
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Since most of us have screen lift on the left side, these instructions assume the fix will be on that side.
Steps:
1. Turn off N7 and take back cover off
2. Remove the 4 screws on the left side.
3. Take the toothpick and cut it in half. It should now look like this:
4. Now flip the N7 over. Using the guitar pick (or the tool you used to take back cover off). CAREFULLY insert between the frame and screen to create an initial gap. then take one side of the toothpick and insert it to one side of the guitar pick. then take the other side of the toothpick and insert it to the other side of the guitar pick. take guitar pick out, it should now look like this:
5. Open up the glue. Squeeze a pea size amount onto a disposable piece of hard plastic. Even though the one I bought is self-mixing, I mixed it again using the tack, then used the damp cloth to clean off the tack.
6. Take the tack and dip it into the glue. The tack should now have some glue on the tip. CAREFULLY place glue in the gap you created in step 4. You do not need to fill it up, just a small amount. You can either place the glue continuously or spaced out at even points. I chose to put glue at evenly spaced out points approx 1/4" apart. Alternatively, the glue came with a fine tipped applicator (see pic), so you could have applied the glue directly into the gap, but that could be messy.
7. When the glue has been applied, remove the toothpicks and close the gap. Some glue will be squeezed out so wipe it off with the damp cloth. Flip N7 over and put the screws back.
8. take rubber bands and place them evenly spaced around the N7 to keep frame against the glass. then put an eraser on the screen to keep screen flush with frame. LEAVE THE BACK COVER OFF. You do not want anything that could possibly push the screen up at this point.
9. After putting screws back and applying rubber bands, double-check to see that there is no gap and the screen is flush with frame (similar to the right side).
10. I placed a phone book on top which I did not include in the picture.
11. If everything looks fine, let sit for at least 2 hours before touching it. If you used the same epoxy glue I did, I would not turn it on for at least 10 hours. I also did not put the back cover on until the 10 hour mark.
Final result.
I did this about 2 days ago. Since then, I've tested it by running some tegra 3 optimized games like Zen pinball and riptide until the rear lower left of the N7 felt quite warm. I know that when I performed the shim fix and the screw tightening, the screen would have lifted at this point - but it didn't with this glue fix. In fact, after gluing the frame to the screen, it feels more solid because there is no longer any sponginess when holding with my left hand and absolutely no creaks. Also, it feels good to see that after you've punished the tegra 3 chipset, the heat generated didn't cause the screen to lift.
Hope this helps some of you. If you feel that I missed something or have some suggestions, please let me know.
Cheers.
Thanks for both trying and posting this. You don't say at which point you replaced the screws? I'm guessing it was when the glue had dried?
I just did the following:
Started transformers playing [was plugged in to power]
Set it on repeat..
waited about 30 mins - so it got a little warm..
Used the same rubber band / eraser trick you did..[without removing the back case] to hold the edge of the screen down.
Waited about 4 hours - film on repeat
Unplugged, turned it off and left it over night [about 12 hours]
Screen has held down for the past week - so sign of lifting.
So maybe worth trying before you go for the glue - and 100% non warranty issues
I think you've hit the nail on the head here.
Looking at THIS teardown it seems clear that the screws play no part in how the display sits within the silver/black frame. The screws hold the internals to the frame and the display is glued to the frame. If the display is raised, then it's the adhesive not working. If you can push it to be flush, then its obviously not the screws pushing it out.
Looks like this is the only real permanent solution. I only wish there was a way to do this without actually bending the display up like that. My luck says I'd crack it! >.<
eager27 said:
Thanks for both trying and posting this. You don't say at which point you replaced the screws? I'm guessing it was when the glue had dried?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That should have been part of step 7. Edited. Thanks for noticing my error.
The fix looks great, no screen lift and no sideways bulge. Can I ask what sizes are those rubber bands you used?
jtc42 said:
I think you've hit the nail on the head here.
Looking at THIS teardown it seems clear that the screws play no part in how the display sits within the silver/black frame. The screws hold the internals to the frame and the display is glued to the frame. If the display is raised, then it's the adhesive not working. If you can push it to be flush, then its obviously not the screws pushing it out.
Looks like this is the only real permanent solution. I only wish there was a way to do this without actually bending the display up like that. My luck says I'd crack it! >.<
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try the alternate glue fix with super-glue by acegolfer:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422
Summerfly said:
The fix looks great, no screen lift and no sideways bulge. Can I ask what sizes are those rubber bands you used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know exactly. I just had a jar of rubber bands and I chose ones that I thought would apply enough pressure to the frame to keep it from separating from the screen.
ckl_88 said:
try the alternate glue fix with super-glue by acegolfer:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29220469&postcount=422
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah that looks safer. Though I'll maybe wait for a bit until I'm less bothered about it being in perfect condition. My Xperia Arc had the famous casing crack and I decided to just glue it and got the glue everywhere and it'd dried before I got to wipe it off. I'm clearly still as skilled as a small child with glue. Not too bad but certainly not as shiny now >.<
jtc42 said:
Ah that looks safer. Though I'll maybe wait for a bit until I'm less bothered about it being in perfect condition. My Xperia Arc had the famous casing crack and I decided to just glue it and got the glue everywhere and it'd dried before I got to wipe it off. I'm clearly still as skilled as a small child with glue. Not too bad but certainly not as shiny now >.<
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm like you with the glue - that's why I used a type that takes minutes to set instead of just 30-60 seconds. It just dries too fast sometimes. You could probably try the epoxy instead of the crazy glue.
ckl_88 said:
I'm like you with the glue - that's why I used a type that takes minutes to set instead of just 30-60 seconds. It just dries too fast sometimes. You could probably try the epoxy instead of the crazy glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely calling superglue 'crazy glue' from now on. I'll have to look around and find the strongest slow-drying glue available. Waiting around for another hot day though as that's the only time it raises enough to glue it, and given that I'm in the UK this could take some time.
padding my screws with the pill packaging seem to fix it for me even though mine was rather small lift. if anything continues or i see more lift i will definitely try this. good looks on the DIY
This is probably the most direct and effective way to solve the lifting screen problem.
I used 3M Scotch glue to stick the screen tight on the bezel.
The gap was really small so I used a IV catheter to drip to glue into the gap. (Yes, I work in a hospital)
After 24 hours, I tested every possible way to make the screen lift but it remained solid and beautiful.
For those who still have screen lifting or side bulging problem, just try this solution. There's no way it would fail.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
No real screen lift for me, just the crazy sounds when pressing the left side of the screen. Depending on the type of fix sometimes the right side would make sounds also. After trying three separate fixes and all failing once the N7 heats up this is the one thing that really seems to have fixed the issue. Thank you!!!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
thanks for posting this guide. I have tried all the other fixes on this board but this is the only one that worked for me.
abitzsong said:
This is probably the most direct and effective way to solve the lifting screen problem.
I used 3M Scotch glue to stick the screen tight on the bezel.
The gap was really small so I used a IV catheter to drip to glue into the gap. (Yes, I work in a hospital)
After 24 hours, I tested every possible way to make the screen lift but it remained solid and beautiful.
For those who still have screen lifting or side bulging problem, just try this solution. There's no way it would fail.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any screen mushiness or waves when you pressed near where your screen lift issue was? And if so, did applying this fix help at all?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
I think this worked for me. Except I didn't read about using toothpicks as spacers. I just found a really pointy toothpick and dipped the tip in superglue then dabbed the edge of the raised screen. Then pushed it in place and held for several minutes. I don't know if it'll hold or if its even doing anything. I'll have to see in the morning. Next time I'll spread the side bevel out using the guitar picks and toothpicks.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Just did the glue fix and got a little on the trim, it dried so fast I couldn't get it off. So while I rubbed it with too gone and scratched with my finger nail I thing the paint began to come off. Is it possible to take the tablet that far apart to paint the bezel or is it part of the screen?
Maybe I'll just rub all the silver off!! Lol
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
glue
Okay I tried a bunch of suggestions before glueing like tightening and loosening the screws as well as taking off the little square of black foam. Unfortunately, none of these methods permenently resolved the lifting screen problem. Then I tried the glue method. I loosened up the 4 screws on the left side and I seperated the screen slightly from the bezel with a few toothpicks. To make sure everything was nice and clean I used 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the mating surfaces. At this point something interesting happened. When I took out the toothpicks and pressed things back together the reactivated glue stuck the glass back on. However, I didn't want to take any chances so I put a little more alcohol on the seam and spread things apart so that I could use some 5 minute epoxy to make things more permanent. After I applied the glue I put the back on and pressed everthing together with some rubberbands and a foam pad. Any glue that oozed out was immediately cleaned off with a cloth and alcohol. Then I left it alone overnight to set fully, and things are looking good so far.
Kuchar09 said:
Just did the glue fix and got a little on the trim, it dried so fast I couldn't get it off. So while I rubbed it with too gone and scratched with my finger nail I thing the paint began to come off. Is it possible to take the tablet that far apart to paint the bezel or is it part of the screen?
Maybe I'll just rub all the silver off!! Lol
View attachment 1255430
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could touch it up with some silver paint.
As many of us, I got my tablet C8O series with the missing screws. Asus decided to remove 2 screws instead of creating a proper fix, which is crazy in my books. For those having a screen lift (even minor like I did), you can fix it very easy with few parts you can get at any phone repair shop. By "permanent fix" I mean this is my alternative to keeping on exchanging the tablet until I find a so called "flawless" one.
Important: Be aware that on the new tablets Asus started to place an adhesive band on the speakers, probably to reduce vibration. I strongly recommend you to open the case from the top and work your way down on both sides, leaving at the end the bottom and slowly opening the case to avoid damaging the adhesive speaker band.
Now, on with the actual fix. First, go get yourself the 2 missing screws and 4 stainless spacers. I went to the nearest phone repair shop and the guy working there charged me 1$ for the 2 screws and 4 spacers... I gave him 5$ for his trouble.
This is how the spacers look:
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The spacers are needed because the stock screws are too long, they also produce better friction between the screw and contact area. Originally, I tried to place the spacers between the inner brackets. That made the case not closing properly and snapped a plastic tab, so I placed them on top instead:
You will work with the 4 screws displayed above, leave alone the ones at tablet extremities. Install the spacers and screws, without having them tighten. This is where the tricky part is for actual fix. In order to completely eliminate the lift, you need to press down and towards outer side the bezel. Once the bezel is warped a little, you can tighten the screw:
The picture above shows the first attempt I had with the bezel warping. If you just press it down like I did, it will create a nasty space between the screen and bezel. Instead, I placed the tablet vertically on the table with the right side against my chest and using 2 fingers I applied pressure with one finger to the bezel to create contact with the screen, while pulling it towards outside with the other finger. You are actually rotating the bezel towards outside, while pressing it against the screen to maintain proper contact. While warping the bezel, tighten the screw. Then, repeat the same process with the next screw until all 4 screws are tight to a medium torque (don't over tighten them). Before you place back the cover, verify that the bezel has proper contact with the screen without weird spaces.
After all screws are tighten, place at a 45 degrees angle the cover to fit perfect on the worked side making sure everything aligns properly. Then continue pressing down the cover counterclockwise from the worked area to snap it into place, ending with the bottom area so the speaker adhesive band glues back properly. In this way you will also avoid snapping the central plastic tab.
Before (screen lift visible on the rear):
After:
The lift is completely gone. However, you can see a very tiny lift at the bottom of the screen near the unlock icon. That is because I did not warped enough the bezel in that area. When I will open next time the case I will fix it in 2 seconds, for now I'm very satisfied with the results.
September 19th, 2012 Update:
I got my replacement tablet today. Is a C8O and has the usual minor lift as well some bezel spacing:
I was able to fix everything easy, using the same warping technique. The screen is impeccable, no more flushed colors.
Looks good, but just a warning to anyone trying this:
To the right of where your finger is in the third photo, where the black ribbon cable is, there's a tiny slot for a tiny plastic tab on the back cover. You can see the slot very clearly in the second photo. This plastic tab takes a lot of stress because of the area it's in; there's the screen on one side trying to separate from the rim, and the screws on the other pulling the frame in the opposite direction. When you close the back cover, this little tab takes all the strain of this whole push-pull action going on (which wouldn't be happening if the design was better) and is very prone to snapping. When it does snap, all that happens is the back cover won't sit right- there will be a millimeter or less gap between the back cover and frame in that area- but in any case it looks kinda bad and allows the ingress of dust and dirt. I have snapped this little tab on one unit, and the slot the tab sits in on another unit just from taking the back cover off a few times VERY carefully. The plastic tab is part of the whole screen lift problem, there's a whole bunch of stresses on the left hand side of the device due to poor design. Twisting your bezel and tightening the screws is likely to overstress this plastic tab and lead to failure. Fine if you can live with that, but I can't. Some people have broken this tab accidentally and noticed that their screen recesses nicely back into the frame, so it looks like the back cover is pulling the frame away from the screen with all that stress on the tiny plastic tab. Baaaaad design.....
I would imagine that any 'fix' that involves forcefully pulling the screen and frame together, i.e. spacers, glue etc.... will result in overstressing the plastic tab causing it to fail eventually. This tablet is designed badly, that's the bottom line. If your fix works permanently then kudos to you though!
Just be mindful of that stupid tiny plastic tab....
Edit: Having examined your second photo, it looks like your slot is snapped already. See the diagonal break on the left?
You are absolutely correct.
Switchbitch said:
Edit: Having examined your second photo, it looks like your slot is snapped already. See the diagonal break on the left?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's from my previous tablet, I was too lazy to take another set of pictures.
It snapped when I first had the spacers inserted in between the frame, instead of placing them at the top. The cover would not sit properly on the worked side as the space was too great.
Have you left yourself with a tiny gap between frame and back cover now, where the slot has snapped?
There's no winning with this thing.
Edit: Different tablet, cool!
Switchbitch said:
Have you left yourself with a tiny gap between frame and back cover now, where the slot has snapped?
There's no winning with this thing.
Edit: Different tablet, cool!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I updated the second picture, showing the 4 screws to be worked with... in the same time you can see the tab not being broken.
I also warped a little more the missed area, so now the tablet bezel is perfectly aligned everywhere.
Interesting.... so effectively what you are doing by rotating the bezel is moving the screen-side bezel closer to the screen, and the component-side bezel further from the components, then firmly screwing it down in that position?
Picturing this in my head, I can see exactly why it would work. May try this on my next N7 if it also has screen lift, which it almost certainly will given that they all suffer from the same bad design.
Ya, is as simple as that: "rotating the bezel is moving the screen-side bezel closer to the screen, and the component-side bezel further from the components".
Don't go crazy on tightening hard the screws. I applied a medium torque, even if I could've tighten them further. The spacers will do the job to retain in place the bezel, as they have a larger contact surface than the actual screw.
It is interesting that the first tablet did not have the adhesive speaker band like the second one. Both tablets were batch C8O, just be careful when you open yours in case you get the new model with sticky speakers. The adhesive band is very thin and surrounds the speaker contour.
As you said very well in your post, to avoid the tab snapping all you have to do is place back the cover at angle starting with the worked area. In a way, is good that I "ruined" my first tablet. At least I learned all the quirks in order to eliminate 100% the lifting. The first tablet had some dead pixels, so I experienced on it knowing that I will exchange it anyways.
What size was the screws, I'm thinking of trying out this fix.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
No idea, I brought one screw to the shop and he got 2 extra, as well the spacers. If you bring them the screw, they will know for sure. Is a common size used on phones and tablets. He even had 2 colors, the black and the stainless one.
The spacers are VERY important, they hold in place better the screws with the bezel warped and also reduce the screw length. Make sure you get the good ones, I took a close-up so you get a better idea:
TECK said:
Before (screen lift visible on the rear):
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW, congratulations on the FIRST picture I've actually seen where you can see the screen lift.
Not to sound pessimistic, but what I'm most curious about is whether or not this fix would effectively lessen any stress the screen may see, and perhaps make it less susceptible to easy cracking...?
Lol yeah permanent fix until the issue returns. Not trying to ruffle your feathers so don't take it that way but everything short of gluing the screen to the frame has been nothing but a temporary fix. I hope your screen stays flush but its plenty of threads claiming to fix the issue but none of them have proven to be successful besides gluing the screen. My screen is actually pretty flush so I never had to do any of these fixes but its seems to me that the adhesive just doesn't hold the screen down very well.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
I agree, the screen is raised primarily because the adhesive has failed. Fiddling with the screws and bezel is all well and good but the adhesive still isn't holding the screen down. Reducing the stress causing the screen to separate is a step in the right direction though.
SPreston2001 said:
Lol yeah permanent fix until the issue returns.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are right, what I meant by "permanent" was my alternative to keep on exchanging the tablet until I find a so called "flawless" one.
From reading more on the subject, it looks like there are many tablets on C7O batch that were perfectly flush. Then, on the C8O batch, they suddenly decided to remove the 2 screws.
I personally believe that the new screen adhesive they use now is better than previous models. Is a matter of managing to make the plastic bezel flush with the screen which might be technically not possible with the current prototype. If Google would've chosen Samsung as manufacturer, we would probably pay a higher price but the tablet would be perfect. I believe the Apple lawsuit scared Google from contracting Samsung, like they did with the phone. Either ways, I'm personally done with chasing the perfect tablet.
@ Teck
Is your Display still okay ?
Dear Stefan
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
It was still perfect until yesterday, when I refunded the tablet.
Let's see what the C9O build makes for the bad lucks I had so far... I'm definitely not giving up on Nexus 7.
TECK said:
It was still perfect until yesterday, when I refunded the tablet.
Let's see what the C9O build makes for the bad lucks I had so far... I'm definitely not giving up on Nexus 7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why did you give up on it if you made it perfect?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
---------- Post added at 11:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 PM ----------
shook187 said:
Why did you give up on it if you made it perfect?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never mind I just read the thread.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
I found the best fix by taking the pos back and not buying another. This is after I went through 4 with design flaws. You consumers are plain blind and ignorant sheep to accept these flaws. A brand new device and you are messing with it to fix their flaws? Morons.
FattiesGoneWild said:
I found the best fix by taking the pos back and not buying another. This is after I went through 4 with design flaws. You consumers are plain blind and ignorant sheep to accept these flaws. A brand new device and you are messing with it to fix their flaws? Morons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope you don't talk like that daily. I can't imagine
He's kind of right though.
Enviado desde mi Galaxy Nexus
I didn't drop it, didn't bang it against anything, nope-- it was just in my front pant pocket not being pressed on at all, covered by the official bumper case meant to protect it. Funny how it shattered perfectly around that speaker grill though, if there was a weak point in the glass that could cause a shatter, that would sure be the spot. Makes me wonder if anyone else has had a crack start in the same area, especially spontaneously?
Got a piece of tape on in it here in the picture, wanted to hold in the glass shards. I'd love to get it repaired, but I contacted Nexus and LG support and it sounds like their warranty process is a hole I don't want to dig myself into, probably would end up with a too large bill due to "physical damage" and a phone no more intact than it is now. Not to mention being out a phone for weeks, how can anyone tolerate that? Oh well, I guess I'll just have to take off my nice bumper case and cover up that now uglified back with a more full coverage TPU case.
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Update: Well I'm sure many would say I'm wrong and an impact caused it, but I'm reasonably certain I know when it happened. I work on robotic equipment and was doing a calibration procedure tonight when I heard an odd crack. At first I thought it was the machine, but the sound signature was wrong and repeating the procedure didn't cause it to reoccur. I was standing straight up not leaning on anything or having any pressure against that pocket when I heard the sound. It was only later when I was heading home I noticed the odd feel of the back of the phone and discovered the crack. I figure that crack sound must have been it. Shocked me, I've never had a phone crack before, I'm very careful how I handle them. Oh, and I don't wear skinny jeans - I'm build like a defensive lineman, so relaxed fit all the way.
Some people have suggested sending the phone to LG, but they don't have any advance replacement program, and I can't afford to go without my phone for 2 weeks just to get a repair estimate. Got my Diztronic TPU case on order, frankly this is the first phone in years I haven't used one of their cases on, my mistake for thinking the phone would be well built enough that the official case would do the job. I will have to look and see if my credit card has any extended warranty program thing though.
Update 2- So it looks like the damage might be covered under my credit card purchase assurance plan, I have to get an itemized repair estimate to complete the claim though. Hopefully a local place can give me that, like heck if I'm going to send the phone to LG for 2 weeks just for that. Frankly the cost of being without a good phone for that period is worth more to me than the cost of the repair, I'd rather just wait till the part becomes available and pay for it myself. It sounds like they also do replacements if repair isn't feasible due to parts not available, etc. Although the phone isn't currently available either, so we'll see how that goes.
On another note I spoke to one of my friends last night who works for a cell carrier that has many Nexus 4s on their network. She said that 3 employees at the location she works also had cracks on their Nexus 4's in almost the exact same spot. She didn't say they were spontaneous, but clearly it is a weak area on the back of the phone. At least one of them was using a full coverage case when it broke, apparently a TPU case. Alas as regretful the thought of covering such a nice looking back panel is, those who don't have broken backs yet may want to invest in high-impact cases, simple TPU or the bumper doesn't look to be cutting it. Since mine is already broken, TPU should be good enough I suppose, mainly just want to cover up the damage.
wot that really sucks. and yah.. the speaker and the camera are the soft spots. the really bad thing is the back has a lot to it. i dont see them as being cheap. some guy managed to get a couple from lg.
wow, amazing, that looks JUST like what I would expect from impact...
CrazyPeter said:
wow, amazing, that looks JUST like what I would expect from impact...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This happened to a guy who went to the movie theater a few weeks back. Same exact place on the phone.
Wow ...
If you search the forums there was one guy with the exact some thing... claimed he treated the phone very well and then for no reason all the glass smashed around the speaker like that.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1999345&highlight=cracked+glass
OgremustCrush said:
I didn't drop it, didn't bang it against anything, nope-- it was just in my front pant pocket not being pressed on at all, covered by the official bumper case meant to protect it. Funny how it shattered perfectly around that speaker grill though, if there was a weak point in the glass that could cause a shatter, that would sure be the spot. Makes me wonder if anyone else has had a crack start in the same area, especially spontaneously?
Got a piece of tape on in it here in the picture, wanted to hold in the glass shards. I'd love to get it repaired, but I contacted Nexus and LG support and it sounds like their warranty process is a hole I don't want to dig myself into, probably would end up with a too large bill due to "physical damage" and a phone no more intact than it is now. Not to mention being out a phone for weeks, how can anyone tolerate that? Oh well, I guess I'll just have to take off my nice bumper case and cover up that now uglified back with a more full coverage TPU case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Obviously impact. Nice try though. Next.
I voided my warranty.
Looks like the crack propagated from the picture's top right "corner" of the speaker opening. Assuming that it is not the result of an impact as you say, the radius of the cut out could be too tight to account for flexing of the phone.
OgremustCrush said:
I didn't drop it, didn't bang it against anything, nope-- it was just in my front pant pocket not being pressed on at all, covered by the official bumper case meant to protect it. Funny how it shattered perfectly around that speaker grill though, if there was a weak point in the glass that could cause a shatter, that would sure be the spot. Makes me wonder if anyone else has had a crack start in the same area, especially spontaneously.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh, pretty sure official bumpers aren't meant to protect that. it's meant to make the phone land on its bumper edges. Not protect the phone's back or front. Only protection for that would be having your device to never touch the surface.
Not sure people should be so quick to assume it's always the result of mistreatment. The phone has problems with the glue, the glass is thin, if it separates even marginally from the back of the phone, that's enough to open the door up for cracking your glass with ease.
happened to a friend of mine as well..not as bad as this but it is happening to a lot of people
Well I'm sure many would say I'm wrong and an impact caused it, but I'm reasonably certain I know when it happened. I work on robotic equipment and was doing a calibration procedure tonight when I heard an odd crack. At first I thought it was the machine, but the sound signature was wrong and repeating the procedure didn't cause it to reoccur. I was standing straight up not leaning on anything or having any pressure against that pocket when I heard the sound. It was only later when I was heading home I noticed the odd feel of the back of the phone and discovered the crack. I figure that crack sound must have been it. Shocked me, I've never had a phone crack before, I'm very careful how I handle them.
Man that sucks. Also recall another user that had the same shattering. Assume you ate going to give Google a call? Did the other guy get a replacement for his phone?
OgremustCrush said:
I didn't drop it, didn't bang it against anything, nope-- it was just in my front pant pocket not being pressed on at all, covered by the official bumper case meant to protect it. Funny how it shattered perfectly around that speaker grill though, if there was a weak point in the glass that could cause a shatter, that would sure be the spot. Makes me wonder if anyone else has had a crack start in the same area, especially spontaneously?
Got a piece of tape on in it here in the picture, wanted to hold in the glass shards. I'd love to get it repaired, but I contacted Nexus and LG support and it sounds like their warranty process is a hole I don't want to dig myself into, probably would end up with a too large bill due to "physical damage" and a phone no more intact than it is now. Not to mention being out a phone for weeks, how can anyone tolerate that? Oh well, I guess I'll just have to take off my nice bumper case and cover up that now uglified back with a more full coverage TPU case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This guy has an OEM back covers, you can replace it if you want, shouldn't be too expensive.
zephiK said:
Uh, pretty sure official bumpers aren't meant to protect that. it's meant to make the phone land on its bumper edges. Not protect the phone's back or front. Only protection for that would be having your device to never touch the surface.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well somewhat, a bumper still protects the back by distributing an impact along the edges of the phone as long as it is from a source wide enough it does not point through that perimeter. Drop a phone with a bumper 4 feet onto a flat surface vs one without, odds are the bumper will save the first phone. As I was not whacking my pocket against sharp edges, I don't see how having a bumper vs a full case would make a difference here.
This is reminding me of a time when the back window on a what was a virtually brand new Fiat Cinquecento shattered whilst parked in my drive. Fiat replaced it under warranty as these things happen from time to time. It was a hot day, and the glass ran out of room to expand (and the seal was not fitted properly), and it just shattered, I'm wondering if the glass expands at a different rate to the rest of the phone back, when it gets warm. If this is the case, then this problem will become very common.
Point of impact.
Case closed.
Too bad it happened buddy.
Maybe a jean snap put pressure on it in a specific spot? Really unfortunate :crying:
richteralan said:
Point of impact.
Case closed.
Too bad it happened buddy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It that's a point of impact, it's exceedingly small, like tip of pen small.
Glass back meeeeeeeeh :silly:
Another guy wearing skinny jeans messing up his phone? j/k
I would be fairly pissed off if this happened to me, that and I'm sure 99% would just think I'm full of it.
I can't get all of the answers from their customer service but I am sure many would be interested to know answers to these questions. You can add your own.
1. Is the glue dangeours if it gets into the mic, speaker, inside buttons?
2. Can you install the glass over a decal sticker on bezels?
3. Does the surface have to be 100% level or is a degree or two off not such a problem?
4. Do they sell just a replacement glass/glue in case of breakage? No point spending extra money for the lamp if you already have one plus what are you going to do with extra lamps.
Thanks a bunch!
I can only answer #4. They do sell a kit with just the glass and glue, but it is only $5 less lol
refusedchaos said:
I can only answer #4. They do sell a kit with just the glass and glue, but it is only $5 less lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What? That is kind of a rip off...
1. it can be dangerous if it gets in. use masking tape for the top speaker and one time around the phone so everything will be sealed.
2. maybe, but i wouldn't do it.
3. it needs to be level so the glue won't flow in the wrong direction.
4. yes but it's still 35 bucks or so
chrisknife said:
1. it can be dangerous if it gets in. use masking tape for the top speaker and one time around the phone so everything will be sealed.
2. maybe, but i wouldn't do it.
3. it needs to be level so the glue won't flow in the wrong direction.
4. yes but it's still 35 bucks or so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you then get masking tape off the top speaker? I am pretty sure it is not in demo videos?
If you follow the directions I don't see how you would get it in the hole. It should dump out just above center and you tip it towards the bottom in the "jig". Once you drop the protector it should only flow under the screen as long as you don't press then cure with light.
So... is it possible, sure if you do 1 or more things wrong during installation but it doesn't seem likely.
notefreak said:
What? That is kind of a rip off...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup
https://www.amazon.com/Whitestone-Dome-REPLACEMENT-PROTECTOR-Protector/dp/B075D74S7K/
I'm sure some company will come up with a cheaper alternative eventually. It is just a glass protector and loca glue.
According to Whitestone, the glue is not harmful to any components or yourself. You can wipe off excess glue with alcohol.
hx4700 Killer said:
If you follow the directions I don't see how you would get it in the hole. It should dump out just above center and you tip it towards the bottom in the "jig". Once you drop the protector it should only flow under the screen as long as you don't press then cure with light.
So... is it possible, sure if you do 1 or more things wrong during installation but it doesn't seem likely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am pretty sure it easily and normally gets into the front top speaker.
notefreak said:
I can't get all of the answers from their customer service but I am sure many would be interested to know answers to these questions. You can add your own.
1. Is the glue dangeours if it gets into the mic, speaker, inside buttons?
2. Can you install the glass over a decal sticker on bezels?
3. Does the surface have to be 100% level or is a degree or two off not such a problem?
4. Do they sell just a replacement glass/glue in case of breakage? No point spending extra money for the lamp if you already have one plus what are you going to do with extra lamps.
Thanks a bunch!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. I had a little bit of seepage around my power button, and found some in my S-Pen slot - no damage done.
2. I think this is likely not to work terribly well. Anything that prevents the progress of the glue is likely to screw up the installation, and I suspect the edges of the decal would probably interfere.
3. I suspect that mine wasn't 100% flat, and it didn't cause problems (I had a bit of seepage both sides, not just the side that I suspect was marginally lower).
4. Yes, as has been mentioned, there is a new glass/glue option at a small saving over buying the whole kit again.
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
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Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I may not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position to more thoroughly inspect. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it and I was afraid to move the jig :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
hx4700 Killer said:
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
View attachment 4278097
View attachment 4278098
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I would not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
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I didn't tape anything off and had to wipe a little glue off the side where the volume buttons are located. The glue didn't get into the speakers or any ports. The glue didn't even make to the volume buttons (close to the buttons but not touching.
Definitely make sure to have a level surface. I used the Bubble Level app to ensure the surface I was working on was level.
I watched the youtube videos a couple times and had it running while I was performing the install. Aside from the barely noticeable two air bubbles (and I mean BARELY noticeable), the install was fairly straight forward and easy.
warkentinkd said:
I didn't tape anything off and had to wipe a little glue off the side where the volume buttons are located. The glue didn't get into the speakers or any ports. The glue didn't even make to the volume buttons (close to the buttons but not touching.
Definitely make sure to have a level surface. I used the Bubble Level app to ensure the surface I was working on was level.
I watched the youtube videos a couple times and had it running while I was performing the install. Aside from the barely noticeable two air bubbles (and I mean BARELY noticeable), the install was fairly straight forward and easy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will grant you, if you don't give a crap what it looks like then yes. Its easy. I am a perfectionist. It requires absolute perfection if you want perfect results. There is no room for error, and no "fix" it later if you screw up. Other tempered glass you can remove, use tape and pull debris off it and re-install. This says you can't remove it once glued and re-use. To quote them "It is impossible"
So when your installing it, and you want perfection and you think about the fact that $50 is on the line if you blow it well.... its more stress than I like for doing that job.
It also yields the best results of any protector I have ever used so risk vs reward I guess.
hx4700 Killer said:
I will grant you, if you don't give a crap what it looks like then yes. Its easy. I am a perfectionist. It requires absolute perfection if you want perfect results. There is no room for error, and no "fix" it later if you screw up. Other tempered glass you can remove, use tape and pull debris off it and re-install. This says you can't remove it once glued and re-use. To quote them "It is impossible"
So when your installing it, and you want perfection and you think about the fact that $50 is on the line if you blow it well.... its more stress than I like for doing that job.
It also yields the best results of any protector I have ever used so risk vs reward I guess.
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Good luck with that. lol
I have circled the two air bubbles that I have. Only noticeable with the screen off.
warkentinkd said:
Good luck with that. lol
I have circled the two air bubbles that I have. Only noticeable with the screen off.
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Now with attachment. lol
hx4700 Killer said:
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I may not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position to more thoroughly inspect. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it and I was afraid to move the jig :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had bubbles in the top center and took off after two days. That's glue did not come off screen protector and trying to wipe off glue caused scratches on the inside off the glass. So now I have to but another package. I love the way it looked but be very careful on the part of lowering the glass after applying the glue. I went too fast and let it slam down and got bubbles. I watched a video saying u can take off and reapply, yeah that didn't work.
Be really careful, and tape the head speaker in case...
I'll tell you my story, which Murphy's law hit me with! I admit i didn't think this would happen to me... but it did, as always.
So i was being really careful, as this is a one shot story... watched the youtube video, surface was perfectly flat, the glass perfectly clean. Once the "glue" was put I saw a little dust, took it away, I was about to put the glass on top, fingers were stable as a sniper... Then suddenly out of nowhere two things happen : 1. i forgot to put the volume of my computer down and got a message which surprised me, 2. my dog decided to run after a bird across my office and while doing so hit my knee under my table... the destabilised me, the glass fell on the screen, didn't land on the level bar obviously and splashed the glue all over the place... and into the top speaker grill.... luckily i had an alcohol bottle and some cotton swap next to me, so i immediately cleaned the speaker but I guess some glue fell inside...
result : i was able to perfectly align the glass, small air bubbles that i was able to move out thanks to a hairdryer, I was able to recover 80% of my volume in my damaged speaker... but still trying to figure a way to win those 20%. Seems like some liquid is still on/inside the speaker OR the glue dried on the speaker INSIDE....trying with the hairdryer, maybe the cotton swab alcohol dripped inside. Well if anyone has an idea how to recuperate that lose, please share.
Just in case you have air bubble, use a hairdryer... but be careful of the heat. Also, i tried it on my Ringke Onyx.. it barely didn't work, so it bended a corner of the glass... but when i changed cases, used the hairdryer, and it fixed the issue.
Trial and error, trust me, you wanna put that tape, just in case Murphy decides to write a new law with you as example...
notefreak said:
How do you then get masking tape off the top speaker? I am pretty sure it is not in demo videos?
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Is this a serious question?
Kawaisa said:
Is this a serious question?
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I just used scotch tape. It came off easily. You are supposed to run the light for 15 seconds on each end first then remove from the holder. Wipe off excess around screen and then do the final cure. Tape just lifted off and removing any excess glue around the perimeter is easy.
FIRST STEP MAKE SURE THE UV LIGHT WORKS. My first one the uv light was junk and I already had glue on. Really annoying.
I would also watch out when taking the bridge off with the uv glue. It can drip. I had it happen twice. I was worried the drips would cause a bubble so I picked up the whole thing and tilted it like the old game where you tilt the playing surface and move the ball around a maze. The puddle will move around like a ball of Mercury. Move the main puddle of glue to the drips and they join it like the liquid metal of the T-1000 in terminator 2. Then move the whole puddle back and gently set it down. Finish your install. I have done 3 now and think I can get it perfect every time.
Make sure you pinch the tray together at the bottom when you lay the glass on just before release. I had the tray separate and the whole glass slid between and fell right past the stopping tab you pull out and onto the phone in the wrong spot. Next time I made sure and pinch the bottom of the tray as I set the glass on it.
I also successfully removed the glass from a cured phone without breaking the glass. Just lift carefully from each edge and work your way in. You must go very slow and use very little force. I bet the glass could be cleaned up. I tried acetone and gave up as it didn't make a dent in it. That glue is tough. There may be something out there that will remove the glue and not jack the glass up I just don't want to invest time in it.