Database Develop

Water warning

Friendly warning -
Do not apply water (or probably any other liquids) to the screen. There is a very significant risk of it entering the LCD layers. The plastic frame is not sealed at the bottom where the "n" button is. The other three sides have adhesive tape applied. Why they didn't seal up the bottom is a real curiosity.
I used just a wet paper towel with some dish soap on it because I wanted to remove all dirt before applying a screen protector. This was enough to get water in and it went almost all the way to the top of the LCD and was very obviously visible. The screen wiping probably helped it get up in there. I was horrified, of course.
I tried blowing a fan at it for 24 hours and it did nothing. So I took it apart to see if it was possible to separate the LCD glass but it is not possible without breaking because there is an extremely thin layer of glass in there that breaks if flexed. I also noted that there is an oil layer to ensure a transparent connection between the layers of glass. I did this a month ago so I'm not sure but I believe there are 3 layers to the panel.
Actually this got me to go out and try a Acer Iconia A100 for a bit. I returned it though because the LCD is junk and the battery life is not so great. But wow it was so fast. Still, I'd rather have slow and an IPS screen than a TN screen with bad viewing angles. So I ended up buying one of those $150 Overstock.com refurb Nook Colors. $150 washing experience disaster.
The "irony" of this is that I had run without a screen protector for 6 months and managed to destroy the unit when working on applying a protector!

Did you try putting it in rice?
Sent from my LG Optimus V using Tapatalk

You never want to use water to clean electronics, that's pretty much the first thing one should learn owning any electronics. I prefer rubbing alcohol, if it does "get" anywhere it shouldn't, it'll dry very quickly and is less conductive than water.
One thing to remember is if you ever do get any of your electronics wet try submerging our device in rice overnight, it should absorb the water.

koopakid08 said:
Did you try putting it in rice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dry rice of course.. Or desiccant packs that can be found in pleather products, such as purses at Wal Mart, etc..

I regularly wipe my Nook down using a damp microfiber cloth, and it seems fine. I'd put the device on a horizontal surface, gently give the surface a swift wipe or two, and dry/polish it using yet another bit of cloth. I never needed to use soap, but I'd probably choose ethanol or isopropanol for more extensive cleaning, anyway. Drugstore alcohol tends to leave behind a visible residue (bitter, too... don't ask) so I like to mix my own cleaning "cocktail."

Hammer warning
Do not smash your Nook with a hammer! It will break it! WTF Barnes and Noble? WHY DIDN'T SOMEONE TELL ME????

swaaye said:
Friendly warning -
Do not apply water (or probably any other liquids) to the screen. There is a very significant risk of it entering the LCD layers. The plastic frame is not sealed at the bottom where the "n" button is. The other three sides have adhesive tape applied. Why they didn't seal up the bottom is a real curiosity.
I used just a wet paper towel with some dish soap on it because I wanted to remove all dirt before applying a screen protector. This was enough to get water in and it went almost all the way to the top of the LCD and was very obviously visible. The screen wiping probably helped it get up in there. I was horrified, of course.
I tried blowing a fan at it for 24 hours and it did nothing. So I took it apart to see if it was possible to separate the LCD glass but it is not possible without breaking because there is an extremely thin layer of glass in there that breaks if flexed. I also noted that there is an oil layer to ensure a transparent connection between the layers of glass. I did this a month ago so I'm not sure but I believe there are 3 layers to the panel.
Actually this got me to go out and try a Acer Iconia A100 for a bit. I returned it though because the LCD is junk and the battery life is not so great. But wow it was so fast. Still, I'd rather have slow and an IPS screen than a TN screen with bad viewing angles. So I ended up buying one of those $150 Overstock.com refurb Nook Colors. $150 washing experience disaster.
The "irony" of this is that I had run without a screen protector for 6 months and managed to destroy the unit when working on applying a protector!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
too bad about your nook. thanks for the heads up ^.^

Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
It was just amazingly easy to get water into the LCD. It is easier than it should be. If you were to accidentally spill a drink on it I think water would definitely enter. It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.

Invisishields are great!
swaaye said:
Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
It was just amazingly easy to get water into the LCD. It is easier than it should be. If you were to accidentally spill a drink on it I think water would definitely enter. It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Invisishields are great! Getting one of those put on fixes the no seal at the bottom, and prevents the seep through the screen cover issue. (BTB, the screen cover is a porous plastic over the glass.)

mwray said:
Invisishields are great! Getting one of those put on fixes the no seal at the bottom, and prevents the seep through the screen cover issue. (BTB, the screen cover is a porous plastic over the glass.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would avoid any wet-applying screen protector...

Screenguard
I use screenguard all the time and it works great..takes off all the greasy finger prints and make Nook Glass shine...never had an issue with it..

Just be very careful how much goes near the bottom by the 'n' button. But good to hear you haven't seen it get in the LCD.
My NC still worked with the water inside but the water totally messed up the background of the LCD. Looked like a funky puddle in the background. Damn did that suck. You have no idea how disgusting it feels to have ruined the NC only because I wanted to finally put on a screen protector! After 6 months of being bare screen I wanted to try to end the messy finger prints annoyance.

I use a little spritz of the cleaning solution that came with my glasses and wipe dry with the cloth that came with the Nook all the time. Never had an issue. Maybe I'll be a little more careful in the future.

One must use instant rice for drying out electronics. Regular rice is like mamory glands on a bull.

swaaye said:
Alcohol (incl isopropyl) definitely attacks some plastics, rubbers and various finishes. That's why I went with water+soap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good point. I almost forgot about that... The cloth I use tends to wick away the oils and such, so I never needed to use solvents other than water. Alcohol also exhibits less surface tension than water, and that might help it get into the LCD.
swaaye said:
It is very unfortunate that they left the bottom open as it is. It lines right up with the seam of the LCD layers. 3 sides are effectively sealed but there is nothing at the bottom side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm... is there any way to mod this thing to prevent that? Suddenly, a screen protector sounds like a good idea, though one would have to be very careful during cleaning.

swaaye said:
.... but there is nothing at the bottom side. Alcohol would get in there too and maybe affect the layers or oil.
Use no liquid on this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funny, I've used Windex over 6 times to clean off the screen of my Nook with no ill effects. I've sprayed it on the screen directly too and it's run down by the bottom.
Maybe I just haven't been liberal enough with my use of liquids. Next time I guess I will have to try the bathtub.
inportb said:
Hm... is there any way to mod this thing to prevent that? Suddenly, a screen protector sounds like a good idea, though one would have to be very careful during cleaning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After much research and scientific review I've come up with a mod that will prevent this. In fact with liberal application it may even make your nook WATERPROOF!!!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Lol. Ya I have been thinking of silicone. It would probably be necessary to disassemble the NC to do that though. Silicone is really easy to make a mess with too.
I did some searching on NC water damage and I'm not alone it seems. Other tablets and phones I've used have better protection around the LCD. Nook Color engineers only sealed 3 sides with their design. There is a narrow rubber gasket that can be seen at the bottom but apparently it doesn't work so great.
Btw, Windex has ammonia in it and that can cloud plastics with enough exposure. Bad for LCDs with plastic surface.

so, i didnt see the OP respond to all the rice comments.....do you still have the nook and have you put it in a box/bag/tub of rice yet??

yourm0m1 said:
so, i didnt see the OP respond to all the rice comments.....do you still have the nook and have you put it in a box/bag/tub of rice yet??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No my original NC is dead because after 24 hours of ineffectual fan blowing I tried taking it apart and separating the LCD layers. Unfortunately there is an extremely thin pane of glass that breaks super easily. The LCD literally slides apart though. There's only some kind of oil layer between the 3 or so different glass layers in it (for transparency). No adhesive or sealant.
The rice idea sounds interesting but I'm not sure if it would work with how the water is pressed in there and also the oil layer that might seal the water in. The rice / desiccant idea sounds like a good way to dry out devices though.

swaaye said:
The rice idea sounds interesting but I'm not sure if it would work with how the water is pressed in there and also the oil layer that might seal the water in. The rice / desiccant idea sounds like a good way to dry out devices though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gotcha....it has been proven to work, hopefully you will never need to worry about it but in the future remember that as a first attempt (or with friends/family)

[fix] easiest screen lift fix!

For anyone having the infamous left side screen lift issue. This includes being able to physically see the glass protruding the silver bezel, screen sponginess, and being able to hear the screen stick/unstick from the adhesive.
After reading this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1800418 it is apparent the screws are a hair too long. When tightened all the way, they actually can press the screen glass out.
The easiest thing for anyone to try is to just LOOSEN the screws just 1/4 turn. You are loosening the screws so very little, that they will stay snug as far as holding what they are supposed to, but they will no longer push out on the screen glass. I didn't even bother with finding a screw driver, and just used my pocket knife. My screen was raised in the very middle of the left side, so I only loosened the 2 screws directly under the seperation. I suppose this will not work for everyone, but it's so simple and only took me less than 2 mins, you might as well give it a shot. Good luck!

Great thanks
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

If you're going to loosen screws you probably want to Loctite them.

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29457665&postcount=41
eh hem...what gave you this idea? jk
Just don't overdo it and you'll be fine. No need for loctite, it's only a small turn and the screws are still plenty secure.
---------- Post added at 12:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 AM ----------
Loosening the screws in some areas will also help with backlight bleed. If you notice a spot near a screw that is really bright, it's most likely a little too tight.
I found this out by testing different "tightness" adjustments. When I went too far, I noticed back light bleed starting to show, loosen it up a bit and it went away.

This actually worked! So far, anyway. We'll see if it's a permanent fix, but it looks promising.

ferris2375 said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29457665&postcount=41
eh hem...what gave you this idea? jk
Just don't overdo it and you'll be fine. No need for loctite, it's only a small turn and the screws are still plenty secure.
---------- Post added at 12:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 AM ----------
Loosening the screws in some areas will also help with backlight bleed. If you notice a spot near a screw that is really bright, it's most likely a little too tight.
I found this out by testing different "tightness" adjustments. When I went too far, I noticed back light bleed starting to show, loosen it up a bit and it went away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol yeah I saw your posts. I mean, that's the same thing I thought of right away. The washers seemed to be a stiff foam, so they compress when screws are tightened. I figured I could loosen them but at the same time keep them snug.
But yeah man good stuff. Did it work for ya?

This.
The washer idea is smart, but for me it caused a more annoying problem. The frame was too thick and pulled the silver trim piece away from the screen and caused a creaking noise at the slightest touch that was way worse than the screen lift.
I just loosened every screw and tightened them back with basically no torque after they stopped turning. All is good now, no creak from the trim and no screen lift, though it's basically flush on he left side
Sent from my Nexus 7

jweitzel24 said:
This.
The washer idea is smart, but for me it caused a more annoying problem. The frame was too thick and pulled the silver trim piece away from the screen and caused a creaking noise at the slightest touch that was way worse than the screen lift.
I just loosened every screw and tightened them back with basically no torque after they stopped turning. All is good now, no creak from the trim and no screen lift, though it's basically flush on he left side
Sent from my Nexus 7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. So did you end up loosening the screws then? Meaning, when you re-tightened them, you didn't tighten them as tight as they were from the factory?
Very interesting... I thought the glass was supposed to be flush with the bezel, until I read your comment. After looking at it, the left side of my glass is also flush with the bezel, while the right side glass sits just a little lower.
That's no big deal to me though, as long as my screen is seated properly.

jaycustom said:
Cool. So did you end up loosening the screws then? Meaning, when you re-tightened them, you didn't tighten them as tight as they were from the factory?
Very interesting... I thought the glass was supposed to be flush with the bezel, until I read your comment. After looking at it, the left side of my glass is also flush with the bezel, while the right side glass sits just a little lower.
That's no big deal to me though, as long as my screen is seated properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably a little lighter than factory. Honestly, mine wasn't bad to begin with but like every other ocd person on here, I just couldn't resist opening it up and tightening the screws. At that point, the screen lift started getting worse and I moved on to the other half-dozen or so "fixes" when, it turns out, the screws being too tight was making everything way worse.
But yeah, its been a couple hours now and it still feels real solid. I've got a tpu case on order so regardless I'm done messing with it.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

jweitzel24 said:
Probably a little lighter than factory. Honestly, mine wasn't bad to begin with but like every other ocd person on here, I just couldn't resist opening it up and tightening the screws. At that point, the screen lift started getting worse and I moved on to the other half-dozen or so "fixes" when, it turns out, the screws being too tight was making everything way worse.
But yeah, its been a couple hours now and it still feels real solid. I've got a tpu case on order so regardless I'm done messing with it.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool beans. Luckily, like your N7, mine wasn't bad either.
Couldn't really tell it was lifted by looking at it, but it was the sponginess and that horrible stick/un-stick sound. This is the first fix I tried, and luckily it worked. Let me know how yours turns out, with or without the case..

I simply loosened all screws then tightened them up. Also, Part of a sponge bumper was tucked under a copper shield which I untucked.
Now when I push hard on the left part of the screen I don't get the tacky sound when i unpress it. Also, screen isn't as bulged. In fact you can't even tell anymore.
Neither was a real problem on my n7 but I prefer to make it perfect. This solved everything.

MikeMurphy said:
I simply loosened all screws then tightened them up. Also, Part of a sponge bumper was tucked under a copper shield which I untucked.
Now when I push hard on the left part of the screen I don't get the tacky sound when i unpress it. Also, screen isn't as bulged. In fact you can't even tell anymore.
Neither was a real problem on my n7 but I prefer to make it perfect. This solved everything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome. Mine wasn't bad either, so I just tried for something simple. It seems like the screws may be too long and pressing on the glass, so I thought to just back them off a hair. 2 minutes later the screen is perfect

jaycustom said:
Awesome. Mine wasn't bad either, so I just tried for something simple. It seems like the screws may be too long and pressing on the glass, so I thought to just back them off a hair. 2 minutes later the screen is perfect
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you take one of the screws out near the central left and shine a light straight down, you will notice that it is open on the other side as in the the screw can pass through. You will also see a portion of the LCD sticking out underneath those screw holes.
I think the LCD isn't suppose to stick out and get underneath the holes, because otherwise the screws won't hit anything and be tightened all the way. I think for some people without screen lift, the partially sticking out LCD might have been crushed and deformed with the screws or the LCD just isn't sticking out as much.

I've been screwing (pardon the pun) about with this some more today, what I have noticed with mine, is if I take the back off and remove all screws the screen sits perfect, put the screws back in, still seems perfect, clip the back on and the screen now sits above the frame on the left, wondering if mine is an issue with the back plate pushing something out of line.

This worked for a while for me but after it heated up the spongy noise returned. HOWEVER I did notice that loosening the screws did fix the touchscreen issue where it was unresponsive at times.

jaycustom said:
Lol yeah I saw your posts. I mean, that's the same thing I thought of right away. The washers seemed to be a stiff foam, so they compress when screws are tightened. I figured I could loosen them but at the same time keep them snug.
But yeah man good stuff. Did it work for ya?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha. I was just messing with ya. This is certainly better than adding a shim but I never had the problem. I just wanted to test this out and take my screws back a bit just in case. The other fix is not the way to go as it screws up the casing.
Still no issues though.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Summerfly said:
If you take one of the screws out near the central left and shine a light straight down, you will notice that it is open on the other side as in the the screw can pass through. You will also see a portion of the LCD sticking out underneath those screw holes.
I think the LCD isn't suppose to stick out and get underneath the holes, because otherwise the screws won't hit anything and be tightened all the way. I think for some people without screen lift, the partially sticking out LCD might have been crushed and deformed with the screws or the LCD just isn't sticking out as much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this.
I'm going to open it up again and consider using mini-washers, or something, just to ensure my now-tightened screws are not pressing on the LCD.

Genius. Popped the back off with a knife, loosened the screws down the left side of the screen a quarter of a turn, and now it's perfect - no more squeaking, no more raised screen. Took about 2 mins to do it.
Also, for those who want a decent cover, I bought a Belkin case from PC World yesterday (quite pricey at £30 but I like to try these things out before I buy them rather than just buy online). Even though it's designed for the 7" Samsung Galaxy Tab, it's a near-perfect fit for the Nexus 7. Speaker cut-out is in the wrong place but it doesn't affect the quality noticeably (besides, I hook mine up via Bluetooth to a Jawbone Jambox). Also got myself a sat nav mount and stuck it on the wall next to my bed, so my Nexus 7 is now a handy portable TV

I fixed mine without even getting inside. Just used a blowdryer and heat up the side while holding the screen down. Seemed to stay put and still is.

Simply awesome, completely fixed that annoying screen bulge on the left side!

My permanent fix for screen lifting

As many of us, I got my tablet C8O series with the missing screws. Asus decided to remove 2 screws instead of creating a proper fix, which is crazy in my books. For those having a screen lift (even minor like I did), you can fix it very easy with few parts you can get at any phone repair shop. By "permanent fix" I mean this is my alternative to keeping on exchanging the tablet until I find a so called "flawless" one.
Important: Be aware that on the new tablets Asus started to place an adhesive band on the speakers, probably to reduce vibration. I strongly recommend you to open the case from the top and work your way down on both sides, leaving at the end the bottom and slowly opening the case to avoid damaging the adhesive speaker band.
Now, on with the actual fix. First, go get yourself the 2 missing screws and 4 stainless spacers. I went to the nearest phone repair shop and the guy working there charged me 1$ for the 2 screws and 4 spacers... I gave him 5$ for his trouble.
This is how the spacers look:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The spacers are needed because the stock screws are too long, they also produce better friction between the screw and contact area. Originally, I tried to place the spacers between the inner brackets. That made the case not closing properly and snapped a plastic tab, so I placed them on top instead:
You will work with the 4 screws displayed above, leave alone the ones at tablet extremities. Install the spacers and screws, without having them tighten. This is where the tricky part is for actual fix. In order to completely eliminate the lift, you need to press down and towards outer side the bezel. Once the bezel is warped a little, you can tighten the screw:
The picture above shows the first attempt I had with the bezel warping. If you just press it down like I did, it will create a nasty space between the screen and bezel. Instead, I placed the tablet vertically on the table with the right side against my chest and using 2 fingers I applied pressure with one finger to the bezel to create contact with the screen, while pulling it towards outside with the other finger. You are actually rotating the bezel towards outside, while pressing it against the screen to maintain proper contact. While warping the bezel, tighten the screw. Then, repeat the same process with the next screw until all 4 screws are tight to a medium torque (don't over tighten them). Before you place back the cover, verify that the bezel has proper contact with the screen without weird spaces.
After all screws are tighten, place at a 45 degrees angle the cover to fit perfect on the worked side making sure everything aligns properly. Then continue pressing down the cover counterclockwise from the worked area to snap it into place, ending with the bottom area so the speaker adhesive band glues back properly. In this way you will also avoid snapping the central plastic tab.
Before (screen lift visible on the rear):
After:
The lift is completely gone. However, you can see a very tiny lift at the bottom of the screen near the unlock icon. That is because I did not warped enough the bezel in that area. When I will open next time the case I will fix it in 2 seconds, for now I'm very satisfied with the results.
September 19th, 2012 Update:
I got my replacement tablet today. Is a C8O and has the usual minor lift as well some bezel spacing:
I was able to fix everything easy, using the same warping technique. The screen is impeccable, no more flushed colors.

Looks good, but just a warning to anyone trying this:
To the right of where your finger is in the third photo, where the black ribbon cable is, there's a tiny slot for a tiny plastic tab on the back cover. You can see the slot very clearly in the second photo. This plastic tab takes a lot of stress because of the area it's in; there's the screen on one side trying to separate from the rim, and the screws on the other pulling the frame in the opposite direction. When you close the back cover, this little tab takes all the strain of this whole push-pull action going on (which wouldn't be happening if the design was better) and is very prone to snapping. When it does snap, all that happens is the back cover won't sit right- there will be a millimeter or less gap between the back cover and frame in that area- but in any case it looks kinda bad and allows the ingress of dust and dirt. I have snapped this little tab on one unit, and the slot the tab sits in on another unit just from taking the back cover off a few times VERY carefully. The plastic tab is part of the whole screen lift problem, there's a whole bunch of stresses on the left hand side of the device due to poor design. Twisting your bezel and tightening the screws is likely to overstress this plastic tab and lead to failure. Fine if you can live with that, but I can't. Some people have broken this tab accidentally and noticed that their screen recesses nicely back into the frame, so it looks like the back cover is pulling the frame away from the screen with all that stress on the tiny plastic tab. Baaaaad design.....
I would imagine that any 'fix' that involves forcefully pulling the screen and frame together, i.e. spacers, glue etc.... will result in overstressing the plastic tab causing it to fail eventually. This tablet is designed badly, that's the bottom line. If your fix works permanently then kudos to you though!
Just be mindful of that stupid tiny plastic tab....
Edit: Having examined your second photo, it looks like your slot is snapped already. See the diagonal break on the left?

You are absolutely correct.
Switchbitch said:
Edit: Having examined your second photo, it looks like your slot is snapped already. See the diagonal break on the left?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's from my previous tablet, I was too lazy to take another set of pictures.
It snapped when I first had the spacers inserted in between the frame, instead of placing them at the top. The cover would not sit properly on the worked side as the space was too great.

Have you left yourself with a tiny gap between frame and back cover now, where the slot has snapped?
There's no winning with this thing.
Edit: Different tablet, cool!

Switchbitch said:
Have you left yourself with a tiny gap between frame and back cover now, where the slot has snapped?
There's no winning with this thing.
Edit: Different tablet, cool!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I updated the second picture, showing the 4 screws to be worked with... in the same time you can see the tab not being broken.
I also warped a little more the missed area, so now the tablet bezel is perfectly aligned everywhere.

Interesting.... so effectively what you are doing by rotating the bezel is moving the screen-side bezel closer to the screen, and the component-side bezel further from the components, then firmly screwing it down in that position?
Picturing this in my head, I can see exactly why it would work. May try this on my next N7 if it also has screen lift, which it almost certainly will given that they all suffer from the same bad design.

Ya, is as simple as that: "rotating the bezel is moving the screen-side bezel closer to the screen, and the component-side bezel further from the components".
Don't go crazy on tightening hard the screws. I applied a medium torque, even if I could've tighten them further. The spacers will do the job to retain in place the bezel, as they have a larger contact surface than the actual screw.
It is interesting that the first tablet did not have the adhesive speaker band like the second one. Both tablets were batch C8O, just be careful when you open yours in case you get the new model with sticky speakers. The adhesive band is very thin and surrounds the speaker contour.
As you said very well in your post, to avoid the tab snapping all you have to do is place back the cover at angle starting with the worked area. In a way, is good that I "ruined" my first tablet. At least I learned all the quirks in order to eliminate 100% the lifting. The first tablet had some dead pixels, so I experienced on it knowing that I will exchange it anyways.

What size was the screws, I'm thinking of trying out this fix.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app

No idea, I brought one screw to the shop and he got 2 extra, as well the spacers. If you bring them the screw, they will know for sure. Is a common size used on phones and tablets. He even had 2 colors, the black and the stainless one.
The spacers are VERY important, they hold in place better the screws with the bezel warped and also reduce the screw length. Make sure you get the good ones, I took a close-up so you get a better idea:

TECK said:
Before (screen lift visible on the rear):
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW, congratulations on the FIRST picture I've actually seen where you can see the screen lift.

Not to sound pessimistic, but what I'm most curious about is whether or not this fix would effectively lessen any stress the screen may see, and perhaps make it less susceptible to easy cracking...?

Lol yeah permanent fix until the issue returns. Not trying to ruffle your feathers so don't take it that way but everything short of gluing the screen to the frame has been nothing but a temporary fix. I hope your screen stays flush but its plenty of threads claiming to fix the issue but none of them have proven to be successful besides gluing the screen. My screen is actually pretty flush so I never had to do any of these fixes but its seems to me that the adhesive just doesn't hold the screen down very well.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

I agree, the screen is raised primarily because the adhesive has failed. Fiddling with the screws and bezel is all well and good but the adhesive still isn't holding the screen down. Reducing the stress causing the screen to separate is a step in the right direction though.

SPreston2001 said:
Lol yeah permanent fix until the issue returns.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are right, what I meant by "permanent" was my alternative to keep on exchanging the tablet until I find a so called "flawless" one.
From reading more on the subject, it looks like there are many tablets on C7O batch that were perfectly flush. Then, on the C8O batch, they suddenly decided to remove the 2 screws.
I personally believe that the new screen adhesive they use now is better than previous models. Is a matter of managing to make the plastic bezel flush with the screen which might be technically not possible with the current prototype. If Google would've chosen Samsung as manufacturer, we would probably pay a higher price but the tablet would be perfect. I believe the Apple lawsuit scared Google from contracting Samsung, like they did with the phone. Either ways, I'm personally done with chasing the perfect tablet.

@ Teck
Is your Display still okay ?
Dear Stefan
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

It was still perfect until yesterday, when I refunded the tablet.
Let's see what the C9O build makes for the bad lucks I had so far... I'm definitely not giving up on Nexus 7.

TECK said:
It was still perfect until yesterday, when I refunded the tablet.
Let's see what the C9O build makes for the bad lucks I had so far... I'm definitely not giving up on Nexus 7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why did you give up on it if you made it perfect?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
---------- Post added at 11:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 PM ----------
shook187 said:
Why did you give up on it if you made it perfect?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never mind I just read the thread.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app

I found the best fix by taking the pos back and not buying another. This is after I went through 4 with design flaws. You consumers are plain blind and ignorant sheep to accept these flaws. A brand new device and you are messing with it to fix their flaws? Morons.

FattiesGoneWild said:
I found the best fix by taking the pos back and not buying another. This is after I went through 4 with design flaws. You consumers are plain blind and ignorant sheep to accept these flaws. A brand new device and you are messing with it to fix their flaws? Morons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope you don't talk like that daily. I can't imagine

He's kind of right though.
Enviado desde mi Galaxy Nexus

Final fix for Nexus 7 screen lift/seperation derived from other fix

Hi,
First of all my sincere apologies if this is dupe (Please delete this thread mods if dupe). I guess I found the 101% fix for screen separation, so I decided to share it with others
1. Empty your phone battery to 1-2 % , switch it off, once done go to the next step
2. Follow this thread (NEW FIX for screen separation issue) and do what @dilldoe said. (Note: This alone might fix but some guyz reporting screen lift comes back, same as in mine case, screen lift came back at first )
3. Now wrap your nexus 7 in some cloth (not very thick), apply clips where the screen lift is , then put it in charging. Leave it for 12-14 hours.
Now you can check your screen lift problem is gone I'd say . Above method fixed mine also and it's been more than 3 days it didn't come back.

Beamon said:
Hi,
First of all my sincere apologies if this is dupe (Please delete this thread mods if dupe). I guess I found the 101% fix for screen separation, so I decided to share it with others
1. Empty your phone battery to 1-2 % , switch it off, once done go to the next step
2. Follow this thread (NEW FIX for screen separation issue) and do what @dilldoe said. (Note: This alone might fix but some guyz reporting screen lift comes back, same as in mine case, screen lift came back at first )
3. Now wrap your nexus 7 in some cloth (not very thick), apply clips where the screen lift is , then put it in charging. Leave it for 12-14 hours.
Now you can check your screen lift problem is gone I'd say . Above method fixed mine also and it's been more than 3 days it didn't come back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just wanted to ask if it ever came back.. please get back to me. All what specific "tools" did you use?

Another Fix for the Nexus 7 screen lift issue
I've found a new fix for the screen lift issue that worked for me; I never post on these things, but this has been bugging me so much that I though I should share this with others who have had to contend with this issue. Please do not hold me responsible if you take these somewhat "drastic" measures and they don't work for you in the same way they did for me. Also note that this procedure will certainly void your warranty, so proceed at your own risk.
I am on my third N7, so I simply examined the device myself and went through with what I thought was necessary to fix it. My first two N7s had the screen flicker issue and all of them had the screen lift. This third device didn't have the flicker issue, but the screen lift was the worst on this one than my previous two; it was the only one that not only had a perceptible lift above the bezel, but was also very squishy and made a clicking or shifting sound when I pressed it. This became particularly annoying every time I tapped the home button in portrait.
I have also tried a lot of the common fixes online: tightened all the screws, loosened the ones on the left side a bit, made the washers as suggested on this thread, etc. What I found when I took the back off, however, was that I could easily run my guitar pick (which I used to pry off the back) along the groove on the *right* side, but could not do the same on the left problem side. Aside from the four-pin connector and a part in the middle, each screw appears to have a three ridged "grate" as part of the inside mould which doesn't allow a deep groove along the entire left side like it does on the right side. Also, the back cover has a number of ridges sticking out (likely to block out dust, etc.) in addition to the clips that hold the back cover in place. In my thinking, then, I thought that perhaps those ridges on the back cover were pushing down on the elevated portions inside the N7, thereby pushing out the screen on the left side along with it. It would make sense, since there is such a deep groove on the right side to accommodate the right-side ridges on the back cover, which isn't the case for the left side. It seemed, therefore, that there was a flaw in the design of the shape of the mould for the back cover.
So, since this was my third device, and I simply didn't care what the results would be out of frustration, I ever-so-carefully trimmed or scraped off any ridge that wasn't a clip along the left side with a jack knife. Then, (and I don't know if this was necessary), I watched a video to heat up the N7 and placed a stack of books on it over night (ensuring that the bottom book was aligned with the screen inside the bezel).
Now, I have tried many adjustments, and after each of the probably 50-ish times I've carried out these various methods, the screen popped back up after only about 15 minutes of use. It's now been about a week of fairly heavy use, and the screen is still below the bezel where it belongs.
There are three additional points: first, this methods was implemented in conjunction with the aforementioned book-stacking and the washer method. I don't know how much the book-stacking played a part, but the washers by themselves did nothing for me (I just haven't removed them b/c I didn't want to risk messing with a good thing). Second, because I removed all those ridges on the back cover, there is a barely perceptible gap between the silver bezel and back cover. In my opinion, it is not enough to let dust in, and it is certainly much, much, MUCH more preferable to the screen lift. Third, this method isn't perfect; there is still the slightest of slightest lift in one place (more near the bottom, in portrait), but it is enormously better than it was before.
I've included a few images that show the "grates" by the screws and elevated portions that the ridges on the back cover were pushing down on, the trimmed or scraped-off sections on the back cover where the ridges used to be and used to push down on these elevated portions inside the N7, the end results that show the screen below the bezel from two perspectives, and the size of the "gap" between the silver bezel and back cover after the procedure.
I truly hope this helps everyone relieve some frustration.
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Inside "grates" by screws aren't deep enough to accommodate ridges on the back cover.
another elevated portion
groove isn't deep enough
Trimmed-off ridges on the back cover
results
results from the other side -- silver is visible
picture of the widest portion of the resulting nearly imperceptible gap between the bezel and back cover

your pictures arent working but i believe you are right. when i have the back cover off there is no screen lift whatsoever...you might have solved it yo
i want to see your pictures before i do it to my nexus though.

So I've been considering the N7 for a few months now because of the awesome price point it's at and I was wondering how common an issue this is. Is screen lift present in most of these devices or is it just the luck of the draw? Also, do the devices start that way or after some use does the issue rear its ugly head? Any advice before my purchase would be helpful! Thanks

It's present on every nexus 7 I've seen....so about 5 of them including my local Sam's club display model. That doesn't mean it's common but that is my experience.

I'm on my 8th N7 and its has a small amount of lift (0.5mm), its a C90. It used to be worse (1.5-2.5mm) until I slackened all the screws quarter turn on the raised side.
I just live with it now. If you don't look at it it's not there! Its going on eBay soon ready for the 32GB model.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

I don't think my device has any screen lift, I did the squeeze test and didnt notice any movement or squeeking.
How can I tell if I have screen lift?

If you have it, it is hard to miss, the glass goes above the silver bezel on the left side. Mine was okay in he first few weeks, then the lift appeared. Nothing but glue worked for me and glue worked very well.
Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X using magic powers

siddesu said:
If you have it, it is hard to miss, the glass goes above the silver bezel on the left side. Mine was okay in he first few weeks, then the lift appeared. Nothing but glue worked for me and glue worked very well.
Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X using magic powers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you do it? I thought about the same but I'm not sure if it will work or how it will look like in case the glue might be visible under the glass. Thanks

Questions about Whitestonedome glass

I can't get all of the answers from their customer service but I am sure many would be interested to know answers to these questions. You can add your own.
1. Is the glue dangeours if it gets into the mic, speaker, inside buttons?
2. Can you install the glass over a decal sticker on bezels?
3. Does the surface have to be 100% level or is a degree or two off not such a problem?
4. Do they sell just a replacement glass/glue in case of breakage? No point spending extra money for the lamp if you already have one plus what are you going to do with extra lamps.
Thanks a bunch!

I can only answer #4. They do sell a kit with just the glass and glue, but it is only $5 less lol

refusedchaos said:
I can only answer #4. They do sell a kit with just the glass and glue, but it is only $5 less lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What? That is kind of a rip off...

1. it can be dangerous if it gets in. use masking tape for the top speaker and one time around the phone so everything will be sealed.
2. maybe, but i wouldn't do it.
3. it needs to be level so the glue won't flow in the wrong direction.
4. yes but it's still 35 bucks or so

chrisknife said:
1. it can be dangerous if it gets in. use masking tape for the top speaker and one time around the phone so everything will be sealed.
2. maybe, but i wouldn't do it.
3. it needs to be level so the glue won't flow in the wrong direction.
4. yes but it's still 35 bucks or so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you then get masking tape off the top speaker? I am pretty sure it is not in demo videos?

If you follow the directions I don't see how you would get it in the hole. It should dump out just above center and you tip it towards the bottom in the "jig". Once you drop the protector it should only flow under the screen as long as you don't press then cure with light.
So... is it possible, sure if you do 1 or more things wrong during installation but it doesn't seem likely.

notefreak said:
What? That is kind of a rip off...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup
https://www.amazon.com/Whitestone-Dome-REPLACEMENT-PROTECTOR-Protector/dp/B075D74S7K/
I'm sure some company will come up with a cheaper alternative eventually. It is just a glass protector and loca glue.

According to Whitestone, the glue is not harmful to any components or yourself. You can wipe off excess glue with alcohol.

hx4700 Killer said:
If you follow the directions I don't see how you would get it in the hole. It should dump out just above center and you tip it towards the bottom in the "jig". Once you drop the protector it should only flow under the screen as long as you don't press then cure with light.
So... is it possible, sure if you do 1 or more things wrong during installation but it doesn't seem likely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am pretty sure it easily and normally gets into the front top speaker.

notefreak said:
I can't get all of the answers from their customer service but I am sure many would be interested to know answers to these questions. You can add your own.
1. Is the glue dangeours if it gets into the mic, speaker, inside buttons?
2. Can you install the glass over a decal sticker on bezels?
3. Does the surface have to be 100% level or is a degree or two off not such a problem?
4. Do they sell just a replacement glass/glue in case of breakage? No point spending extra money for the lamp if you already have one plus what are you going to do with extra lamps.
Thanks a bunch!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. I had a little bit of seepage around my power button, and found some in my S-Pen slot - no damage done.
2. I think this is likely not to work terribly well. Anything that prevents the progress of the glue is likely to screw up the installation, and I suspect the edges of the decal would probably interfere.
3. I suspect that mine wasn't 100% flat, and it didn't cause problems (I had a bit of seepage both sides, not just the side that I suspect was marginally lower).
4. Yes, as has been mentioned, there is a new glass/glue option at a small saving over buying the whole kit again.

I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
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Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I may not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position to more thoroughly inspect. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it and I was afraid to move the jig :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!

hx4700 Killer said:
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
View attachment 4278097
View attachment 4278098
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I would not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't tape anything off and had to wipe a little glue off the side where the volume buttons are located. The glue didn't get into the speakers or any ports. The glue didn't even make to the volume buttons (close to the buttons but not touching.
Definitely make sure to have a level surface. I used the Bubble Level app to ensure the surface I was working on was level.
I watched the youtube videos a couple times and had it running while I was performing the install. Aside from the barely noticeable two air bubbles (and I mean BARELY noticeable), the install was fairly straight forward and easy.

warkentinkd said:
I didn't tape anything off and had to wipe a little glue off the side where the volume buttons are located. The glue didn't get into the speakers or any ports. The glue didn't even make to the volume buttons (close to the buttons but not touching.
Definitely make sure to have a level surface. I used the Bubble Level app to ensure the surface I was working on was level.
I watched the youtube videos a couple times and had it running while I was performing the install. Aside from the barely noticeable two air bubbles (and I mean BARELY noticeable), the install was fairly straight forward and easy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will grant you, if you don't give a crap what it looks like then yes. Its easy. I am a perfectionist. It requires absolute perfection if you want perfect results. There is no room for error, and no "fix" it later if you screw up. Other tempered glass you can remove, use tape and pull debris off it and re-install. This says you can't remove it once glued and re-use. To quote them "It is impossible"
So when your installing it, and you want perfection and you think about the fact that $50 is on the line if you blow it well.... its more stress than I like for doing that job.
It also yields the best results of any protector I have ever used so risk vs reward I guess.

hx4700 Killer said:
I will grant you, if you don't give a crap what it looks like then yes. Its easy. I am a perfectionist. It requires absolute perfection if you want perfect results. There is no room for error, and no "fix" it later if you screw up. Other tempered glass you can remove, use tape and pull debris off it and re-install. This says you can't remove it once glued and re-use. To quote them "It is impossible"
So when your installing it, and you want perfection and you think about the fact that $50 is on the line if you blow it well.... its more stress than I like for doing that job.
It also yields the best results of any protector I have ever used so risk vs reward I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck with that. lol
I have circled the two air bubbles that I have. Only noticeable with the screen off.

warkentinkd said:
Good luck with that. lol
I have circled the two air bubbles that I have. Only noticeable with the screen off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now with attachment. lol

hx4700 Killer said:
I stand corrected. I did my install last night and taped the speaker just in case and probably should have run tape around the perimeter of the phone as well. It came out nice but for one tiny bubble right at the curve that isn't visible when in use and mostly only in bright light.
Tips:
1. I definitely recommend taping not only the speaker but the perimeter below the glass so it can't go in buttons or ports. I had to wipe down the vol up/down side a bit.
2. Absolutely make sure the work surface is level. I have a tiny level I set across the screen face in both directions while it was inserted in to the jig to confirm this.
3. Write down the steps on a short, simple checklist you can refer to and put it on the table next to the phone so you don't miss any. I almost forgot to tilt the phone after removing the adhesive "bridge" and setting the tempered glass down in the slot and across the drop pin. A speck got on there right next to the glue and I freaked and had to pick up the protector and dab the dust bit up. That lead to me hurrying/panicking and nearly forgetting a step.
4. Either before you start or after you drop the glass on the glue and it spreads make sure you and/or the phone are in a position where you can inspect all sides/angles before applying the UV light. I may not have had the bubble if I had been in such a position to more thoroughly inspect. It was on the curve of the glass on the far side away from me and I didn't see it and I was afraid to move the jig :/
5. DO NOT remove any part of the positioning jig until you have hit it with the first 15 seconds of UV light. That cover is floating on a lot of liquid and will skate all over the place if you aren't careful.
6. You can gently tap/(very gently)push down a bit to push glue in to bubbles but be aware doing so will most likely lead to it "squirting" out the edge(s) a bit.
7. Do this when you are not in a hurry and well rested (not exhausted like I was). Make sure no one will bust in the room you are working and bug you (or swirl up the air). Do it in a clean environment. Wait for the AC to be OFF and no fans on so air isn't causing dust bits to swirl. I wore Nit-rile gloves to minimize any bits falling off my skin/hair (don't touch the screen with the gloves once cleaned or you may end up with a residue on it). If you are at all unsure about your install or what your results will be like DO NOT hit the glue with the UV light. Up until then it can be cleaned off and you have another bottle for try 2. Afterwards the say its impossible to clean and re-use thought I may put that to the test much later on.
If you want perfect results then EVERYTHING must go perfectly or you will not have perfect results. Even if its perfect bubbles may still get missed :/
**This screen protector install is NOT for the faint of heart or someone who is not willing to take the time and even dry run it a couple of times to be sure they have it down or the results will be less than optimal. This is coming from someone who can take apart these Samsung phones and replace the display itself!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had bubbles in the top center and took off after two days. That's glue did not come off screen protector and trying to wipe off glue caused scratches on the inside off the glass. So now I have to but another package. I love the way it looked but be very careful on the part of lowering the glass after applying the glue. I went too fast and let it slam down and got bubbles. I watched a video saying u can take off and reapply, yeah that didn't work.

Be really careful, and tape the head speaker in case...
I'll tell you my story, which Murphy's law hit me with! I admit i didn't think this would happen to me... but it did, as always.
So i was being really careful, as this is a one shot story... watched the youtube video, surface was perfectly flat, the glass perfectly clean. Once the "glue" was put I saw a little dust, took it away, I was about to put the glass on top, fingers were stable as a sniper... Then suddenly out of nowhere two things happen : 1. i forgot to put the volume of my computer down and got a message which surprised me, 2. my dog decided to run after a bird across my office and while doing so hit my knee under my table... the destabilised me, the glass fell on the screen, didn't land on the level bar obviously and splashed the glue all over the place... and into the top speaker grill.... luckily i had an alcohol bottle and some cotton swap next to me, so i immediately cleaned the speaker but I guess some glue fell inside...
result : i was able to perfectly align the glass, small air bubbles that i was able to move out thanks to a hairdryer, I was able to recover 80% of my volume in my damaged speaker... but still trying to figure a way to win those 20%. Seems like some liquid is still on/inside the speaker OR the glue dried on the speaker INSIDE....trying with the hairdryer, maybe the cotton swab alcohol dripped inside. Well if anyone has an idea how to recuperate that lose, please share.
Just in case you have air bubble, use a hairdryer... but be careful of the heat. Also, i tried it on my Ringke Onyx.. it barely didn't work, so it bended a corner of the glass... but when i changed cases, used the hairdryer, and it fixed the issue.
Trial and error, trust me, you wanna put that tape, just in case Murphy decides to write a new law with you as example...

notefreak said:
How do you then get masking tape off the top speaker? I am pretty sure it is not in demo videos?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this a serious question?

Kawaisa said:
Is this a serious question?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just used scotch tape. It came off easily. You are supposed to run the light for 15 seconds on each end first then remove from the holder. Wipe off excess around screen and then do the final cure. Tape just lifted off and removing any excess glue around the perimeter is easy.

FIRST STEP MAKE SURE THE UV LIGHT WORKS. My first one the uv light was junk and I already had glue on. Really annoying.
I would also watch out when taking the bridge off with the uv glue. It can drip. I had it happen twice. I was worried the drips would cause a bubble so I picked up the whole thing and tilted it like the old game where you tilt the playing surface and move the ball around a maze. The puddle will move around like a ball of Mercury. Move the main puddle of glue to the drips and they join it like the liquid metal of the T-1000 in terminator 2. Then move the whole puddle back and gently set it down. Finish your install. I have done 3 now and think I can get it perfect every time.
Make sure you pinch the tray together at the bottom when you lay the glass on just before release. I had the tray separate and the whole glass slid between and fell right past the stopping tab you pull out and onto the phone in the wrong spot. Next time I made sure and pinch the bottom of the tray as I set the glass on it.
I also successfully removed the glass from a cured phone without breaking the glass. Just lift carefully from each edge and work your way in. You must go very slow and use very little force. I bet the glass could be cleaned up. I tried acetone and gave up as it didn't make a dent in it. That glue is tough. There may be something out there that will remove the glue and not jack the glass up I just don't want to invest time in it.