Database Develop

Nexus 7 Very Easy Memory Cooling Modification

I pealed the copper piece of 'heatsink' material over the Processor/GPU and over the two memory chips below and noticed the black thin adhesive is covering the memory chips not the gold 'heatsink' material that should be to cool them properly.
I carefully cut with the x-acto knife the black adhesive revealing the copper heat sink being sure NOT to cut into the copper material. It allowed a 1:1 bond of the heat sink to the memory chips. I could see where the memory chips bonded to the adhesive and just cut around the small black square.
Seems like this small little mod may help in reduction of heat off the memory chips while over clocking or hardcore gaming...
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xboxexpert said:
I pealed the gold piece of 'heatsink' material over the Processor/GPU and over the two memory chips below and noticed the black thin adhesive is covering the memory chips not the gold 'heatsink' material that should be to cool them properly.
I carefully cut with the x-acto knife the black adhesive revealing the gold heat sink being sure NOT to cut into the gold material. It allowed a 1:1 bond of the heat sink to the memory chips. I could see where the memory chips bonded to the adhesive and just cut around the small black square.
Seems like this small little mod may help in reduction of heat off the memory chips while over clocking or hardcore gaming...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure you didn't cut off the thermal paste?

angellsl said:
Are you sure you didn't cut off the thermal paste?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure that's what he did. They make thermal tape sorta stuff, and use it for RAM quite often since RAM doesn't need intense cooling.

I do not recommend this. At the very least you'll piss of some Asus Thermal Design Engineers.

Yea that probably wasn't a good move. I've seen it used on the RAM chips of videcards and other things while I've built computers, what would improve it would be to replace it with some Arctic Silver 5

ThePerson98 said:
I'm pretty sure that's what he did. They make thermal tape sorta stuff, and use it for RAM quite often since RAM doesn't need intense cooling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no "Thermal Paste" just adhesive. If you peal yours up you will see that the chipset has no paste on it its just adheased to the top. However the black stuff everyone is freaking out is not thermals paste its a layer to prevent the circuitry from shorting due to the conductivity of the copper material.
As you can see in that picture the thermal pad is what the guy is holding the black tape, THAT I WAS SPEAKING OF, is just a shield for non conductivity yet it covers the memory chips. You all are flipping out and giving this thread 1 star with out understanding exactly how thermal dynamics work and what I was talking about. Also I've been liquid-cooling devices and building machines for over 10 years you really think I would have done a mod that increased heat....come on gimme some credit

xboxexpert said:
There is no "Thermal Paste" just adhesive. If you peal yours up you will see that the chipset has no paste on it its just adheased to the top. However the black stuff everyone is freaking out is not thermals paste its a layer to prevent the circuitry from shorting due to the conductivity of the copper material.
As you can see in that picture the thermal pad is what the guy is holding the black tape, THAT I WAS SPEAKING OF, is just a shield for non conductivity yet it covers the memory chips. You all are flipping out and giving this thread 1 star with out understanding exactly how thermal dynamics work and what I was talking about. Also I've been liquid-cooling devices and building machines for over 10 years you really think I would have done a mod that increased heat....come on gimme some credit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool idea, have you monitored your temps before and after to see if it helped at all?

myke66 said:
Cool idea, have you monitored your temps before and after to see if it helped at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not. It was sorta a spur of the moment noticeable modification. I'm 100% certain it didn't hurt anything though as many have mentioned. I wouldn't have hurt my precious tablet I love this thing.

Hi
xboxexpert said:
I have not. It was sorta a spur of the moment noticeable modification. I'm 100% certain it didn't hurt anything though as many have mentioned. I wouldn't have hurt my precious tablet I love this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt the memory barely gets warm over clocking or not. Memory can run at quite high temperatures, certainly hotter than hand hot so you would know if there was a heat problem.
Regards
Phil

PhilipL said:
Hi
I doubt the memory barely gets warm over clocking or not. Memory can run at quite high temperatures, certainly hotter than hand hot so you would know if there was a heat problem.
Regards
Phil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed...

xboxexpert said:
However the black stuff everyone is freaking out is not thermals paste its a layer to prevent the circuitry from shorting due to the conductivity of the copper material.
As you can see in that picture the thermal pad is what the guy is holding the black tape, THAT I WAS SPEAKING OF, is just a shield for non conductivity yet it covers the memory chips. You all are flipping out and giving this thread 1 star with out understanding exactly how thermal dynamics work and what I was talking about. Also I've been liquid-cooling devices and building machines for over 10 years you really think I would have done a mod that increased heat....come on gimme some credit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...wrong. It isnt a "shield for non (electrical) conductivity", although it does that. Instead of using a paste in certain applications, OEMs will use something closer to a pad/thermal tape. It is slightly worse than using a paste, but it works ten fold better than using nothing like you are saying. The point of using a paste or pad/tape is to fill in the pores of the heatsink and whatever it is cooling providing a larger connected surface. Just removing the pad will lead to worse heat conductivity. It is much better to keep the pad on there, but if you are really wanting to do this please put something like arctic silver 5 or even a cheap-er thermal paste in there.
I still recommend leaving the pad there overall, because it wont degrade over a few years like a paste will and this really isn't a high temp application like on a CPU or GPU.

deltantor said:
...wrong. It isnt a "shield for non (electrical) conductivity", although it does that. Instead of using a paste in certain applications, OEMs will use something closer to a pad/thermal tape. It is slightly worse than using a paste, but it works ten fold better than using nothing like you are saying. The point of using a paste or pad/tape is to fill in the pores of the heatsink and whatever it is cooling providing a larger connected surface. Just removing the pad will lead to worse heat conductivity. It is much better to keep the pad on there, but if you are really wanting to do this please put something like arctic silver 5 or even a cheap-er thermal paste in there.
I still recommend leaving the pad there overall, because it wont degrade over a few years like a paste will and this really isn't a high temp application like on a CPU or GPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After my mod there is adhesive on the actual copper piece so there isn't "nothing" bonding the two materials. See for yourself if you don't fully understand. I totally understand what your saying though.
Also If you put Artic Silver on you are bound to make a full blown mess of things as there is no tension to spread the paste and your basically bonding AS5 with Sticky paste that's already there on the copper.

or use a non conductive paste
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186020

Hi
BrianDigital said:
or use a non conductive paste
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186020
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The black plastic might also be deliberately design to insulate the other components from the heat sink as the copper screens purpose might be to cool the CPU only. Adding extra heat energy from other components into the copper shield will reduce the effectiveness of cooling the CPU.
If the plastic is to insulate (both electrically and thermally), the other components will simply dissipate their heat via the circuit board copper tracks, moving that heat in an opposite direction to that of the CPU, which when you think about it, makes perfect sense.
It also over looks the fact there are another 2 memory chips sat on the other side.
I think this applies here, "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it" .
Regards
Phil

Sorry but I don't think ur mod doing any good ...its memory not CPU /GPU like with the old Xbox where u had to scrape off old paste and put Arctic silver 5 to stop red rings lol
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

PhilipL said:
Hi
The black plastic might also be deliberately design to insulate the other components from the heat sink as the copper screens purpose might be to cool the CPU only. Adding extra heat energy from other components into the copper shield will reduce the effectiveness of cooling the CPU.
If the plastic is to insulate (both electrically and thermally), the other components will simply dissipate their heat via the circuit board copper tracks, moving that heat in an opposite direction to that of the CPU, which when you think about it, makes perfect sense.
It also over looks the fact there are another 2 memory chips sat on the other side.
I think this applies here, "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it" .
Regards
Phil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had no plans of doing such a thing. I was hoping to save someone the grief of putting AS5 on the their tablet smush everything together and join components they weren't supposed to.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

The black plastic is thermal tape. Besides bonding the flexible copper sheet to the components, it also serves to evenly transfer heat from the components to the copper sheet. It's not a thermal insulator - it has excellent thermal conductive properties. The adhesive that is left on the components is not going to as effectively couple the chips to the copper.
It's the same stuff that you'll find under the heat sinks of computer memory modules when the heat sinks don't clip on with some force.
As an electrical engineer who designs these sorts of things, my advice is don't remove the thermal adhesive from your Nexus 7. Google put it there for a reason and, on a $200 tablet, they didn't put in anything that didn't need to be there.

sorry to dig up an old thread but i found this http://www.sepa-europe.com/en/news/new-sepa-micro-fans
is there room ? considering current over clocks's would it help?!!

danb79 said:
sorry to dig up an old thread but i found this http://www.sepa-europe.com/en/news/new-sepa-micro-fans
is there room ? considering current over clocks's would it help?!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that you might have a tough time slipping a sheet of paper in there. I suppose that an enterprising person could cut some kind of opening for the fan, but then there'd be the problem of no air circulation within the case because of that lack of space. Also, you'd have to find a 3.3V rail to connect to. I hate to be a wet blanket, but I think that any benefit would be so small that it just wouldn't be worth it.

Nexus 4; Investigating thermal throttling [HardMod] [v1.2]

Post available in PDF [v1.1]
So it is a fact that Nexus 4 SoC throttles pretty often and even if it does not remove anything to this phone, it is one of its particularity compared to other phones using APQ8064 that are not known to throttle so strongly. So, question is why?
Symptoms
So first of all, what is thermal throttling, and what does it has for consequences for your Nexus 4 ?
Quick explanation is that when a chip (CPU, GPU or in our case a SoC) reach a limit temperature, it will reduce its frequency to reduce heat and temperature. For a more complete description, check Wiki.
Keep in mind that with or without throttling, the Snapdragon S4 in your N4 remains one of the quickest SoC on the market. However, it can affect performances on eavy duty applications like 3D games. Better than a long description, check below graph.
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So lets try to find from where this thermal throttling does come from;
After having a look at Ifixit teardown, I was pretty surprised by the low thermal inertia of my phone and the heat concentration under stress situations (mainly located on the right of the back camera). It looked to me pretty strange, especially after seeing following pictures;
Indeed, after “mentally returning” the 2 pictures, you understand that SoC is facing display and should be spread its heat on the whole grey frame.
So I decided to dismount my own Nexus 4, and performed some measurements with a calliper. I found the following;
Which is quite a surprise if you consider that the chips height is almost the same;
In other words, the EMI shield (left) may come in contact with the frame (in the 1mm depth pocket) while the APQ8064/DRAM Stack (centre) may remain isolated (no contact in the 1,5mm pocket). This is pretty sad if you consider that the below frame appears not to be plastic material but to be made of light weighted metallic alloy (Aluminium and/or Magnesium) and could be used as heatsink.
I won’t overflowed you with tons of pictures but if you look carefully at Ifixit teardown you will also notice that motherboard is pretty thermally insulated from the metallic frame, while at the same time it is pretty well thermally coupled to the battery with bronze housings/threads and wide copper band;
(Please note the 2 battery max temperatures, 40 or 60°C?)
So what do all these pictures show? That mainboard may evacuate its heat through the metallic bridge to the battery while it ‘should’ evacuate it through the metallic frame.
Diagnostic
After several stress test runs, it seem that Nexus 4 tries to keep its battery below 40°C, so it downclocks from 1512Mhz to 1242Mhz when reaching ~37°C and from 1242Mhz to 1134Mhz when hitting ~39°C, while it may completely shutdown when battery reach 60°C.
So after all these founding I made a small quick tendency study;
So, no need to be a genius to understand what is happening, the “insulated” motherboard spreads its heat to the battery which behaves like a heat capacitor all this through the ‘metallic bridge’. Unfortunately, battery thermal sensor is between heat source and heat capacitor.
The cure
So I first tried to apply some thermal paste (a lot! );
Which lead to an obvious result as you can hardly fill a 0.5mm gap with thermal paste;
So as second try I used a small piece of copper to fill the gap (Pre-installation pictures only for showing copper piece dimensions);
I used stability test to stress CPU and observed time before it throttles first @1242Mhz and then @1134Mhz. Please note that I throttling appear to happen when battery sensor reach 37°C. (EDIT: or when SoC reach 60°C)
As a result I obtained following delays before throttling; (EDIT: Other users results added)
Even the thermal ‘pad’ solution, despite its bad efficiency, induces a significant improvement, which gives credits to previous diagnostic/explanation.
Concerning the ‚copper solution, it seems that it solves completely the shutdown problem;
The asymptotic temperature appears to be below 50°C (it was ~41°C after ~15min).
We can also notice that phone temperature surface is more uniform, and hot spots almost disappeared.
Bottom line
So is it ideal solution to solve N4 throttling?
For sure not, because it does not completely remove throttling problem, but at least gives you much more headroom before it happens (especially under real world applications). Not to forget that the battery is deeply glued to the frame so it may collect heat pretty well, but at least battery sensor will now reports a more realistic temperature and not any more battery PCB one.
It also may increase cooling capabilities, as with this mod, you use the complete surface of the phone to cool down (front, back and even sides as frame goes at edges).
In other words, this mod allows you to use your whole phone heat capacity, which increases time before throttling. Using it with undervolting soft mod may bring you the best results.
I hope this could be useful.
Doing the Mod
_ Careful!!! Disassembly Nexus 4 is not difficult, as long as you keep cool, you have proper tools and enough time. Please do not forget to put back the black plastic cover before screwing the motherboard again, however you may damage your screen! (check Jiia posts)
_ Dimensions of the pocket in the aluminium/magnesium frame is about 15mm x 15mm x 0.5mm (with corner rounding ~0.25mm). The APQ8064 chip itself has smaller dimensions, more in the 13mm x 13mm range. So "perfect safe dimensions" would be 14.5mm x 14.5mm x 0.5mm for the pad, if it is a solid (metallic) one. Be careful and try to keep your shim as flat as possible to avoid any stress after montage. For sure you have more flexibility with a soft one (thermal pad, graphite...).
_ Concerning material; if we remain IRL (forget diamonds!) a list of possible material (with decreasing efficiency), may look likes:
graphite foil, Silver/Copper shim, aluminium shim, (most) other metal shim, thermal pad/paste, thermal tape.
Graphite foil: may give the better performances, but may be difficult to supply (not so expensive, but companies sale usually only big quantities).
Copper shim: DIY may not that easy (0.5mm is easy to bend), but you can buy finish products.
Aluminium shim: relative easy to supply and to manufacture (scissor may work), with very close performance than copper.
Other metal shim: may be the easiest to find (ask your local garage mechanic). Lower performance than copper or aluminium but better than pad (steel family). Check thermal conductivity for other possibilities (Bronze, brass, zinc...)
_ Where to find/buy;
Graphite Foil. or on Ebay (careful, Inches)
0.5mm Copper pads on ebay, or on ebay...
0.5mm Aluminium sheet. also on ebay
Thanks to all the regulars and helpful contributors to this post

awesome find. you might want to correct the title to say "Investigating"

praveenmarkandu said:
awesome find. you might want to correct the title to say "Investigating"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1.
When I read the title, I thought its one of the "Calling all Devs ... $200 etc etc thread" lol

I've lots of money to put in .
I also wanted to correct harDmod but I do not find where to edit title.
EDIT: I found it (go advanced), but edition is blocked for me.

Nice!
What about using a .5mm thermal pad as those used for transferring heat from gpu ram to waterblocks?

praveenmarkandu said:
awesome find. you might want to correct the title to say "Investigating"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
troun2000 said:
I've lots of money to put in .
I also wanted to correct harDmod but I do not find where to edit title.
EDIT: I found it (go advanced), but edition is blocked for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you can edit the title. The post can be edited though.

While that makes perfect sense, problem and the solution, what if LG actually designed it this way and had their reason to not directly "connect" it to the frame? Either way, nice work for spotting this!
And also which hardware rev do you have? Something like this could be "easily" solved by LG with a different hardware rev, for example with a thermal pad (like the ones in GPU memory and stuff like that).

troun2000 said:
(Please note the 2 battery max temperatures, 40 or 60°C?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
140°F and 60°C are the same.

narta said:
Nice!
What about using a .5mm thermal pad as those used for transferring heat from gpu ram to waterblocks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you will get similar results to the ones I had using thermal paste. Pre-applied thermal pad are foreseen to be 'compressed' (they are only thick thermal paste), while the one you can cut with scissors have a 'foam' structure which is not as efficient as 'bulk' material.
At least it may be better than stock but not as good as the copper piece. Why not trying to use aluminium sheet? (light, 0,5mm sheet can be cut using scissors, high thermal conductivity)
Peter1856 said:
While that makes perfect sense, problem and the solution, what if LG actually designed it this way and had their reason to not directly "connect" it to the frame? Either way, nice work for spotting this!
And also which hardware rev do you have? Something like this could be "easily" solved by LG with a different hardware rev, for example with a thermal pad (like the ones in GPU memory and stuff like that).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fair question, I also had it; why LG engineers designed it like this (as they are for sure not idiots and that I do not pretend to teach them their work)? I do not know. For me, the very unsatisfying but most probable answer is that a thermal pad was foreseen (there is a dedicated pocket!) but abandoned.
How do I check Hardware revision?

Rusty! said:
140°F and 60°C are the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried to use not too high resolution pictures, but if you check IfixIt pictures you will notice that both are mentioned.
My guess is that 40°C may refer to long term usability temperature (optimal Lithium battery temperature is ~20°C), while 60°C is more an ultimate 'survival' temperature before you seriously damage it.

You've misread the battery blurb
The picture shows both 140°F and 60°C (which is the same temperature), but not 40°C.

Rusty! said:
You've misread the battery blurb
The picture shows both 140°F and 60°C (which is the same temperature), but not 40°C.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes in Caution headlines, but you also have a logo showing 40°C/104°F.
Anyway that was not really my point .

Re: Nexus 4; Investing thermal throttling [HarMod]
So, would it be possible to put a thermal pad where it was originally supposed to be?
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app

Re: Nexus 4; Investing thermal throttling [HarMod]
troun2000 said:
Yes in Caution headlines, but you also have a logo showing 40°C/104°F.
Anyway that was not really my point .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh yeah, I completely missed that logo, and I treble checked the image to make sure. D'oh, sorry!
40°C can't be it's max temp, so I wonder what it's referring to...

i cant help wondering that this design was infact intentional.....
especially when there have been a lot of people having issues with yellow spots on the screen when the phone gets hot. This is maybe a reason to keep heat away from the back of the screen where the backplate is located.
i could be wrong though.
Either way, this is some great work by the OP!:good:

troun2000 said:
How do I check Hardware revision?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By booting into bootloader. Volume down and power button to boat into bootloader

Ya Mudda said:
So, would it be possible to put a thermal pad where it was originally supposed to be?
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes for sure, you can do it, but as already said, my guess is that bulk material is better. For a few $ you can get aluminium sheet that may give you much better performances (with two drops of thermal paste).
Opening for the first time a smarphone is quite stressfull, but this N4 is quite easy.
Rusty! said:
Oh yeah, I completely missed that logo, and I treble checked the image to make sure. D'oh, sorry!
40°C can't be it's max temp, so I wonder what it's referring to...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NOP
troun2000 said:
My guess is that 40°C may refer to long term usability temperature (optimal Lithium battery temperature is ~20°C), while 60°C is more an ultimate 'survival' temperature before you seriously damage it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Eclipse_Droid said:
i cant help wondering that this design was infact intentional.....
especially when there have been a lot of people having issues with yellow spots on the screen when the phone gets hot. This is maybe a reason to keep heat away from the back of the screen where the backplate is located.
i could be wrong though.
Either way, this is some great work by the OP!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for thumb up!
I did not knew about these yellow spots and screen problems.
However I would say that with this mod, average screen temperature may be for sure higher, but I am pretty sure that its maximum temperature may be lower as you spread the heat on much bigger surfaces (if you prefer, temperature gradient may be lower with mod).
On last test, after 15min, battery (which is deeply glued to the frame) sensor reported ~41°C, I really do not think that screen may have seen temperature higher than 45°C.
So what is the best for lifespan; 10 pixels @55°C and 1 billion @25°C or 1 million of pixels @40°C ? I do not know.
stardusk said:
By booting into bootloader. Volume down and power button to boat into bootloader
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good: So it seems I have a Rev11.

Can you please run quadrant on your N4? I'm curious what sort of results you will get.

Re: Nexus 4; Investigating thermal throttling [HardMod]
sirbagin said:
Can you please run quadrant on your N4? I'm curious what sort of results you will get.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think you are in the wrong thread, here there is some quadrant benchs: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=33550610, about at the end of the thread...
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium

Thermal paste mod for g4

Lg g4 thermal paste mod
This is my guide for applying thermal paste or pads to various parts of g4 to help disapate heat better.
i personally use Arctic silver About 12 dollars american at any radioshack.
1st of all I am not holding a gun to your head, Im not forcing anyone against there will if you are not comfortable tearing down your phone,
dont!!!!!!
In recent events of loads of g4s bootlooping.
I want to say i have a 10/15 g4 hardware rev 1.1 have had it nearly a year and so far no loop.
Prob wishful thinking but I want to say this may be why helps get rid of the heat off the old girl.
3 screens later, 2 camera lenes, and a leather back. still rooted on zv6 So up yours LG.
So lets get started
1st remove back cover and in my case i have a cell phone repair kit with the screw drivers and prys. Remove all the screws in the frame assambly. There are 11 of them.
2nd carefully pry the rear frame apart from the screen assambly.there are no wires to disconect yet. Do not force her apart she will come apart when all the clips are released.
3rd once the backplate is free there are 3 wire clips 1 on the camera one next to it for the light sensors and down near the bottom rite under the battery.
4th you can leave the camera module in just move the three wires slightly to the side and carefully remove the board flip it over and again carefully pry the big tin away from the board.
5th im a little eccentric so i applied the paste to all 5 chips underneith the tin just a very small dab goes a long way see in pics attached
6th when putting the tin back on make sure its lined up on all points.
this is also a common ground connector on most phones.
From here just reassmble and enjoy!!!!
Whole procsess took about 20 min
Before I started I was at 45 Celsius now after moderate usage to check temp 29 celsius.
Ive run the piss out of this phone. sold it twice and got it back wireless charge.
Shes a soldier.

To see what each circuit is, see step 8 here:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/LG+G4+Teardown/42705
Rear-facing chips:
Avago ACPM-7717 Multiband Multimode Power Amplifier
Qualcomm WCD9330 Audio Codec
SlimPort ANX7816 Ultra-HD Transmitter
Qualcomm PM8994 Power Management IC
NXP 47883 NFC Controller
Samsung K3QF6F60AM-QGCF 3 GB LPDDR3 RAM
The Hexa-Core, 1.8 GHz Qualcomm Snapdragon 808 SOC is layered beneath the RAM.
Toshiba THGBMFG8C4LBAIR 32 GB NAND Flash
Broadcom BCM4339HKUBG 5G WiFi Client
Qualcomm PMI8994 Power Management IC
IDT P9025A Qi Wireless Power Receiver IC
Qualcomm WTR3925 LTE Transceiver
---------- Post added at 11:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:14 AM ----------
TheMadScientist420 said:
I place a ever so slight smudge of arctic silver on all 6 plus the larger black chip and so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you clarify - did you put the thermal past *only* between those chips in your picture, and the little metal cover that goes over them? I can't tell if you also put it between the metal covers and the frame of the phone?

Yea i did a small smudge on each then i put the cover back on arctic silver is a pretty nonconductive paste i try not to put it on everything all sloppy but ive never had it liqufy and run any where either some people say it does i didnt put none on the frame or cover.
Im not familiar with this layoit either knowin my dumb arse i put it on the wrong chips but i went through my g3 and actually done a bunch of them in small doses of coarse throught the whole board

Kingfattys diagram is rite i couldnt find a diaram of the board so im partially wrong. I will update tonight ill do another tear down and take more pics
The proscessor is on the backside. Thats why i ask for help to im goin off a old setup.
Ofcoarse it never hurts to coat more chips all produce heat. Ill label the diagrams and do a complete guide rework tonight on my computer

figured id brink this back up on the thread list
so
Bump

dont know if its helped guys.
but so everyone knows i havnt had a bootloop issue on my g4 yet to date again knock on lgs synthetic leather.
there has been a lot of discussions of heat being the primary cause for the failed solder joints and maybe this helped maybe it didnt

What kind of temps are you getting when running antutu on tz_sensor13/14?

tbob18 said:
What kind of temps are you getting when running antutu on tz_sensor13/14?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me dl ot and run it i use 3c toolbox and max is usaually 45. Ive seen 55 or 60 but highly rare. I was using vr and charging together lol

Im runnin the test now

tbob18 said:
What kind of temps are you getting when running antutu on tz_sensor13/14?
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Click to collapse
Here they are

TheMadScientist420 said:
Here they are
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That's quite good. How long was that running?

tbob18 said:
That's quite good. How long was that running?
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7 or 8 min

TheMadScientist420 said:
7 or 8 min
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Using the stress test? Wow, I'm definitely going to add thermal paste. That's a good 15-20c lower than mine.

tbob18 said:
Using the stress test? Wow, I'm definitely going to add thermal paste. That's a good 15-20c lower than mine.
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now if u look i pasted almost every flat chip on the front and back under the tins and everything i paste everything from my phones tablets ps3 ps4 pc even the heat sinks on my stereo
and i seem to have decent luck with my electronics so far.
ive replaced the screen on my g4 3 times now sold it 2 or 3 times and bought it back people loved it so much they went out and got g5s and v20s
dissambly is very easy straight foward other than no twrp and keep busting screen i love my g4
i just always keep a back up device just in case. of coarse i have one of the older ones so im stil on zv6 and rooted to the gills

tbob18 said:
Using the stress test? Wow, I'm definitely going to add thermal paste. That's a good 15-20c lower than mine.
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just noticed your from chi town
born and raised in Gary IN moved to tn when i turned 18 now im in vermont the mountains of green state lol

TheMadScientist420 said:
now if u look i pasted almost every flat chip on the front and back under the tins and everything i paste everything from my phones tablets ps3 ps4 pc even the heat sinks on my stereo
and i seem to have decent luck with my electronics so far.
ive replaced the screen on my g4 3 times now sold it 2 or 3 times and bought it back people loved it so much they went out and got g5s and v20s
dissambly is very easy straight foward other than no twrp and keep busting screen i love my g4
i just always keep a back up device just in case. of coarse i have one of the older ones so im stil on zv6 and rooted to the gills
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I really like how the G4 feels and the camera is nice. But temps are crazy. LG seems to have really failed on that front, not to mention how it's all locked down now.
My G2 has been great for that last 3 and a half years, replaced the screen 3 times, battery is now failing though. I'll prob grab another screen as it's just a great, reliable device.
TheMadScientist420 said:
just noticed your from chi town
born and raised in Gary IN moved to tn when i turned 18 now im in vermont the mountains of green state lol
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Nice, I head over to the Indiana dunes area a lot in the summer, some nice places over there. :good:[
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What do you get in antutu btw?

tbob18 said:
Yeah, I really like how the G4 feels and the camera is nice. But temps are crazy. LG seems to have really failed on that front, not to mention how it's all locked down now.
My G2 has been great for that last 3 and a half years, replaced the screen 3 times, battery is now failing though. I'll prob grab another screen as it's just a great, reliable device.
Nice, I head over to the Indiana dunes area a lot in the summer, some nice places over there. :good:[
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What do you get in antutu btw?
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id have to run it again didnt even pay attantion
mines loaded with loads of crap on it im sure it was pretty low
ive never been one to really go off benchmark scores just numbers to me like ive got a old one loaded up youve got a new one probly still fairly clean
im more into actual real life usage fluidity
i know mine has no lag doesnt overheat and is still fairly smooth running
still handles the gear vr pretty damn good

TheMadScientist420 said:
id have to run it again didnt even pay attantion
mines loaded with loads of crap on it im sure it was pretty low
ive never been one to really go off benchmark scores just numbers to me like ive got a old one loaded up youve got a new one probly still fairly clean
im more into actual real life usage fluidity
i know mine has no lag doesnt overheat and is still fairly smooth running
still handles the gear vr pretty damn good
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Yeah, I'm not one for benchmarks either, but it can give an idea of the health of the hardware. I did notice lower scores on some G4's I think it may be because of throttling due to overheating though. I get around 70,000, if I put a little pc fan next to it, it gets 71,500.

Copper Heat Sink is the way to go
Copper Heat Sink works the best. There is a video on Youtube, just search youtu.be/G3dQdS1b0aw

CellphonePro said:
Copper Heat Sink works the best. There is a video on Youtube, just search youtu.be/G3dQdS1b0aw
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Nice video. Summary of procedure:
1) open the phone to reveal the circuit board
2) remove the large metal shroud or plate covering the processor chip and memory chips
3) cut out and remove a section of the large metal shroud that would normally cover the processor chip
3) get a piece of "heatsink tape" (e.g., thermal tape, he uses a tape with copper on top and adhesive on the bottom) and cut it to fit on the top of the memory chip, apply it to the memory chip
4) replace the large metal shroud over the chip - this covers and sandwiches the thermal tape on the memory chip under the shroud, while exposing the processor chip due to the hole you cut in step 3) above
5) apply another section of large thermal tape over the exposed processor to extend beyond the processor to the sides, covering over the metal shroud too (*this I disagree with, see below*)
6) apply a small section of thermal tape over the metal shroud located where the memory chip is located
Disagreement issue: there is a gap/divot over the processor, which will no longer make stiff contact with the frame when you assemble the phone. You can see the divot around 13:00 of the video, how the thermal tape "dips" in over the processor.
To fix, I'd add step between 4 and 5:
4.5) apply a small section of thermal tape directly over the naked processor to serve as a shim - just copy step 3) by applying the same procedure to the processor, not just the memory chip
By giving the processor the same covering of thermal tape as you did the memory chip, you will make sure the tape from step 5) that lays across the metal shroud and processor, will now be flat and not have a divot, to ensure good pressure/contact between the frame and the processor when you install the frame

Hardware-Mod: Adding a copper heatpipe

Since we have no dedicated hardware modding subforum I just went for the mod section - feel free to move the thread accordingly if I am in the wrong.
Recently I broke my OP3 and bought two used ones with shattered displays of ebay, assembling a frankenstein sort of phone with my working parts. Now I have two working OP3s, my daily driver and one with a shattered display. In addition, I have one that is almost completely ruined and useless. That got me thinking.
I recently saw a lot of manufacturers incorporating heat pipes made of copper, filled with a little liquid into their devices to spread the heat from the SoC more efficiently along the backside of the device. Namely the Razer Phone, The Galaxy S8 and S9, the new Pocophone F1, just to name a few. Naturally, these parts come available at replacement shops for cheap. Like here for example: https://stellatech.com/en/samsung-sm-g950f-galaxy-s8-heat-pipe,a,828202.html/
Now, since my OP3 tends to get hot in the SoC/Camera area not only during gaming, I thought why not try fitting one of these to the aluminum back of the phone. The OP3 appears to have some sort of thermally conducting sticker, connecting the SoC under its shield to the aluminum back for heat dissipation.
My plan would be to Dremel a groove into the aluminum back, to fit the heat pipe. Then secure it in place with thermally conducting glue, alternatively thermal paste and some drops of epoxy along the way. Remove the shield from the soc, cut the sides off for easier alignment and solder it to the heat pipe.
Then add some thermal paste to the CPU and GPU and press the back/heat pipe/shield assembly on, closing up the phone. Paste would have to be replaced every time the phone is opened though.
I am open to any suggestions how to better achieve this as well as educated guesses on the effectiveness of my project.
I

Or better
Replace the shield with thermal pad copper joined with the heatpipe
Apply liquid metal instead normal thermal paste
Make many tiny holes in the back case
Make a custom build cooler pad with 11000 RPM fans
Build by yourself or ask some kernel devs to put a very high frequencies in the custom setting
Put it on youtube with a clickbait title even it's not working
$ Profit $

150208 said:
Or better
Replace the shield with thermal pad copper joined with the heatpipe
Apply liquid metal instead normal thermal paste
Make many tiny holes in the back case
Make a custom build cooler pad with 11000 RPM fans
Build by yourself or ask some kernel devs to put a very high frequencies in the custom setting
Put it on youtube with a clickbait title even it's not working
$ Profit $
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Click to collapse
Someone give this guy a medal!!

Aluminium alone works also as a heat spreader. So I would maybe first try to polish the area on the case where the SoC is , to improve contact quality, and then use some higher quality thermal pad.
Run benchmarks before and after. (Like 10,x geekbench in a row.)

Heatpipes're used everywhere in tech these days. They work fine. I enjoy a snarky comment as much as the next droider, but really there's no reason you couldn't mod a case back to have a heatpipe running all the way down, although it might heat up the battery running past it.

Alternative
or you can try using this instead just copy paste on Amazon
Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative To Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm)
for us, the PC enthusiasts its been working legit wonders while not having the downsides of paste

I think it would be unnecessary for already cooled device

any physical thermal mods?

I was able to get crazy good benchmarks with the phone over the AC vent. So we obviously have a physical thermal issue. I have replaced the battery 3 times twice on my wife's mi mix. So I am wondering if anyone has tried to do anything.

I had planned to use slim copper shims with some premium thermal paste but never got around to it. The thermal pad/rubber on the sd821 looks like crap.

I don't get any perfomance improvement using copper shim, also complicated to install it correctly. At some point i got ghosting image on the lcd. Because it's little bit to thick.
Different height between cpu and pmic.
I'm planning to change it with some premium thermal pads. I'm sure it will be enough, because we don't talk about a 100W processor.

What kind of temps are you getting?

kevin168 said:
I don't get any perfomance improvement using copper shim, also complicated to install it correctly. At some point i got ghosting image on the lcd. Because it's little bit to thick.
Different height between cpu and pmic.
I'm planning to change it with some premium thermal pads. I'm sure it will be enough, because we don't talk about a 100W processor.
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Thank you for sharing! So we can skip the copper shim. What about a copper back replacement? Like make an AutoCAD of the back plate and have it CnC'd online?
I know it sound like I'm putting too much effort but I love to tinker with things.

reID.entify said:
What kind of temps are you getting?
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Using miui nougat version + psychedelic kernel 0.7
Downclocked maximum cpu and gpu core.
Around 72-80c, while playing games like pubg.
I removed thermal control files also.
When normal use like browsing,chat,youtube.
It's just around 38-45c, phone is cooling down faster in my experience.
I'm living in a tropical country, my room temperature is ussually more than 30c.

This phone is a giant oven. If i install MIUI Stock just can B used to griddle Girl's Hair. So, a good 1 is adding thermal paste to the CPU CHIP directly, a good one. When i change the Battery i'll do it.
How much american dollars will cost?