Nexus 10 Car Install - Nexus 10 Accessories

Nexus 10 Car Install - Nexus 10 Accessories

Alright so I made that dock for when the Nexus 10 is at home, but what if I want it in the car? Next project! I basically used the Exogear Tablet Mount along with Pogo Cable and Griffin Bluetooth Adapter to fully intergrate the Nexus 10 into my car. Thought I'd write up the details just like the dock in case anyone wanted to give it a go.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
There's actually a lot that went into this, because:
1) It charges the tablet
2) Integrates with my car speakers
3) Is tethered to my phone, also mounted in the car
Stuff Used:
1) Tablet Mount
2) Pogo Cable
3) Phone Mount
4) Tablet Bluetooth
5) Phone Bluetooth
6) Power Adapter
7) Add a Circuit
8) Cigarette Lighter Adapter
9) AUX mixer
10) AUX Cable
11) PIE Interface
12) RCA Cable
13) Passive Amp
14) Ground Loop isolator
Step by Step
Step one was finding a mount/holder for the tablet. This one from exogear worked perfectly. I wanted charging, so I knew I wanted to integrate the pogo cable in somehow. I thought I would have to mod the holder a little but it was perfect as is - the pogo fits snuggly in the bottom:
Just force the usb end of the pogo into the hole at the bottom of the holder and you're good to go. I won't go into the details of removing the dash because every car is different, so I'l just say, get that cable inside the dash and leave it for now, we'll get back to it later. Lets stay on the outside for now. Next step, mount the phone:
Pretty simple. I found this mount to be the best - it was simple and allowed me to mount and dismount the phone quickly. I zip tied a charging cable for my phone and snaked that into the dash.
I integrated to my car stereo through bluetooth. But I wanted both the phone and the tablet to be connected. So I got two bluetooth devices. The trip here was to find ones that would auto connect without pressing any buttons on them since at least one would be behind the dash. And this was surprisingly hard to find. But this one from Griffin was exactly what I needed. It just plugs into a cigarette lighter and has a cable for Aux fro sound.
For the phone, I wanted one that I could use for calls and could control the phone with. So I mounted this little guy from Kinivo to the steering wheel. The one wire coming out of it split at the end to an aux for audio and a cigarette lighter plug. Bring that cable inside the dash.
Ok, so inside the dash is where all the magic happens.
So now we have to power everything. We have the following: USB from the pogo of the tablet, USB for the phone, 2 cigarette lighter plugs. Let's plug it all into this guy
But first you're going to have to modify it a little bit. So even though it says it can output 2.1A and 1A, that's only for apple products. Android handles things a little differently. If android detects that you're plugged into a usb port rather than a wall charger, it will only pull 500 mA regardless of what current is available. So we need to tell android that this is a higher current source. We do this by soldering the the two data lines in the usb together. The data lines are the middle two of the four. Just open up the case for the adapter and drop a ball of solder on the board for the middle two pins of both USB connectors. Trust me it works!
Now we need to plug the adapter into a power source. The easiest way to do this is to plug it into and cigarette lighter. But you don't find those inside the dash and I didn't want any cable on the outside, at least as little as possible. I wanted all the guts to be hidden. So for me, I had the fuse box under the driver's side dash which I wanted to tap into, and I think most cars have a fuse box in the same area. Find a fuse that is only powered when the engine is off. This is important, we don't want to drain the battery when the car is off. Once you find the fuse, get yourself an Add a Circuit . Very handly little guy. I used a 7.5 Amp fuse which was more than enough current to power everything.
Once you got that in, you'll need a cigarette lighter adapter. Connect that into your add a circuit and plug your power adapter into it and, boom, everything is powered.
Now we have to deal with the audio. I wanted both devices to have access to the speakers at the same time. So I needed a mixer. The strange thing is there is no such thing available for sale that I could find. I only saw stuff for high end musical equipment and so on. So I had to build my own. There's good guide how to do that here so i won't detail the instructions here. Those instructions are to build a 4 to 1 mixer, but we only need a 2 to 1, so it's a bit more simple but the basics are the same.
OK once you have that, plug your two AUX cable into the input and get yourself an Aux cable for the output.
So is where each car is different, but you need to get a PIE interface. Just find one for whatever car you have and use it with RCA Cable to hook into your car stereo.
Bonuses
1) If you find that you're volume is pretty low (which is likely due to the mixer), you'll need to get yourself an amp and put it in line. I got a passive one from here :http://phpaudio.jigsy.com/passive-preamp and I can vouch that it works great.
2) Be aware of the ground loop. If you're hearing excess noise, you might be coupled into you car's ground loop. The telltale of this is if the pitch of the static noise changes as you accelerate. If you get that, there's an easy fix. Get yourself a ground loop isolator to put in line.
Software
To wrap up, there are a few pieces of software that make the thing even better. One is of course Tasker. Set it up so that your phone automatically turn on wifi tether when it connects to both the bluetooth of the car and to the tablet. Second is Tablet Talk. It allows you to dial, answer and make calls from the tablet. It's an awesome piece of software and has great Tasker integration.
That's all I got!

I have only one thing to say....Wow!

Dude, nice! Great thorough guide...I will seriously consider doing this!

This is awesome. Well done
I'm STILL waiting for the official dock, or a dock that charges and has aux sound through Pogo, to start my car build. So I can charge and have aux sound run through the dock.

Related

Mini-USB car charger / IC intelligent chip

I have the HTC orginal car charger with Mini-USB connector. This car charger has and intelligent chip "IC" to prevent overheating when charge is 100%
Now, HD2 has a MICRO connector. My question is, if I use it with a mini-to-micro converter, will this "IC" feature continue working?

Talking about this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
And this:

wat, IC stands for integrated circuit.
Also, the charging mechanism to prevent overcharging or damage to batteries is on the device (phone) not the adapter.

Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?

Hello,i've the same thing and it works fine . All pins are connected in the adaptator .

pckshd said:
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no it's the phone that's drawing the current, not the adapter. Adapter is a "dumb" servant that serves current upon request.
the converter is just a wiring converter so again ther'es no intelligence involved.

Thank you!

I have 2 of that EXACT converters shown in the photo above... IT DOES NOT WORK!!!
For some reason, my phone will not charge when I use that adaptor... I also bought a Motorola one which works well

Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2

pckshd said:
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup That one works fine and data works also... you can charge and sync with it

I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.

Guys,
I use Motorola P513 microUSB car charger. It works like a charm. After fully charged HD2 disconnects from it so there's no possibility to overheating. I really recommend it. An it looks fancy too
http://www.motorola.com/Consumers/U...gers/P513-microUSB-Car-Charger-89143N-US-EN-2
Price about $14 in Poland

psdos said:
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... 1 have two of those and they both wont charge... not in car, via charger or anywhere else.... I was so pissed off as I got two of them... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
THe one showing in the picture... when I plug it on the cable with the other end in the cigarette lighter adaptor, the cigaretter indicator light goes out on that end as if a circuit has been cut.... this happens even without anything plugged in and happens with both adaptors I bought... nothing charges also.... pissed me off!

from what i see that is also a surge protector. 8v to 3v, being a surge protector, it has a capacitor inside, and that will naturally block all data connection.

eskasi said:
... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks

Som30ne said:
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MicroUSB-Adapter-RAZR2-SKN6252/dp/B001EJFZ5G
This is the one... as long as it looks like this... I am using it right now as I type this

Thanks for the reply.
I tried checking where and how they ship - and (as in many other cases) it seems they only shim within the US.
Since Im not in the US . . .
Is there any other one ?
About the comment that says - "as long as it looks like this" - well - I saw several of them, and as I mentioned in my previous post - they specify that they (the ones I saw) only charges the device, and when I asked the seller - they aslo claimed that it's only for charging, and does not transfer data.
(maybe they look the same on the outside, but the wiring is different ? - I wonder)

Be careful.
By the time you plug a mini USB plug into such an micro adapter, the potential leverage on the phone / micro socket will be quite considerable!

Why? What do you mean exactly?

The above one piece adaptor together with the charger's Mini USB plug is similarly rigid & I'm guessing about 2½ to 3 inches long - maybe 10 to 12 times the length of the actual micro socket! Some 10:1 leverage ratio. Maybe 3 times as much as without an adaptor.
I doubt that the design spec of a USB micro socket was ever designed to withstand the potential force that even mild accidental input leverage applied at a right angle would exert, on conversion to output leverage, on the phone's socket. For example, the leads tend to be 1 metre and are quite restricting. with the lead at right angles to the phone, 'testing' the cables length, the 'moment of force' (technical term) applied is likely to exceed the the design spec of the socket many fold.
I am suggesting there is a risk of separating the socket from the phone's chassis and/or its electrical connections to the printed circuit board within the phone.
At the vary least, due to the cables inherent stiffness, over a period of time the phones micro socket will get enlarged / bell shaped simply from small gentle leverage movements. IE. whilst USB connected, simply picking up the phone, messaging, or making a call. Eventually electrical / mechanical connections will gradually fail.
To reduce, but not eliminate this effect, I would suggest an adaptor cable as opposed to a one piece adaptor.
(Think I've waffled a bit here, but hope I've conveyed what I mean)

Brodit Active car holder

Just installed the Brodit active car holder. Holds the phone securely, charges it and looks nice. What more could one want ?
http://www.brodit.com/?main=searchb...-94CF-A04BFE025E64&showTypeHidden=0&showID=43
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Does it have the standard car holder interface with the 4 small blocks, as shown in this picture?

Let me answer this question myself: No it doesn't have the standardized interface. Is has a tilt & swivel mounting with a 4 hole plate to screw it onto something. I ordered one and screwed it to my dashboard.

what output does it have?... like Volts and Amps....
when you put the phone in isn't it a bit harder because of the microusb?... i'd go for one of these but i'm afraid that the microusb port will break with time (getting to loose)...

Hi,
I'm using the active holder already for several months now without any issues.
I also changed the plug to a USB instead of the cig to listen to the music on my storage card and it works absolutely perfect.
Joerg

schrej said:
Hi,
I also changed the plug to a USB instead of the cig to listen to the music on my storage card and it works absolutely perfect.
Joerg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what do you mean exactly?...
by the way... the cigplug version comes with a usb cable stuck in it or is it in one piece?...
and whate is with that molex adaptor?

ccezar2004 said:
what output does it have?... like Volts and Amps....
when you put the phone in isn't it a bit harder because of the microusb?... i'd go for one of these but i'm afraid that the microusb port will break with time (getting to loose)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
900 mA. I guess it outputs 5 V like any other charger or else I would have fried my HD2 .
Sliding in the phone is not easy at first. Not because of the micro USB jack but because the holder is tight. In order not to tilt or swivel it you need 2 hands to slide in the phone. That's the only disadvantage I could find: you can too easily alter the position you put your phone in. The advantages are:
It's very stable. No shaking phone.
It quickcharges. No slow draining of the battery then using the GPS and playing music at the same time.
It is not too big and looks fine in the car.
No leds or other shiny stuff to distract you constantly.
I think the cable is thick enough to withstand the normal abuse (sunlight, high temps, movement).
ccezar2004 said:
what do you mean exactly?...
by the way... the cigplug version comes with a usb cable stuck in it or is it in one piece?...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it's in 1 piece.

i think ițll go for one... active... i just have to find a way to hide the cable...
does anyone knows what is with the molex one?

i ordered an active holder... i have many doubts regarding the fact that every time i'll put tho phone in the holder it will charge... and i don't need it to charge every time... like when i go to work in the morning... a 20-30 min ride... won't this affect the battery over time?...
schrej ... give me more details about changing to usb and listening to music....

ccezar2004 said:
i ordered an active holder... i have many doubts regarding the fact that every time i'll put tho phone in the holder it will charge... and i don't need it to charge every time... like when i go to work in the morning... a 20-30 min ride... won't this affect the battery over time?...
schrej ... give me more details about changing to usb and listening to music....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
well I remembered a good explanation in a "Kaiser" thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=339263&highlight=brodit
It works the same way with the Leo.
Only difference: There's no more need to peel off the the rubber casing from the micro-usb-plug. Just remove the top plate as described, remove the mircro-usb plug incl. the car-charger, replace it by your micro-usb cable, reattach the top plate and there you go.
One more tip: insert the HD2 while adjusting the micro-usb plug and reattaching the top plate. This assures a perfect fit.
schrej

that was for the 3 in 1 adapter... no need with HD2 as it has separate audio jack...
in about 2-3 weeks i'll have my holder... to much time... but that's the way it is done here... once a month import...
i'll be bcak with photos and impressions...

I'm after one of these, whats it like rotated? Maybe a photo? Secure?

ccezar2004 said:
that was for the 3 in 1 adapter... no need with HD2 as it has separate audio jack...
in about 2-3 weeks i'll have my holder... to much time... but that's the way it is done here... once a month import...
i'll be bcak with photos and impressions...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't understand your point. You can use any cable you need as long as it has the micro-usb on one end.
I used a mirco-usb to usb cable and am now able to connect my HD2 directly with the USB of my radio. So HD2 2 ist charging and my radio recognizes the HD2 SD card as an external usb device and plays the music on the SD card.
schrej

I have this holder too, and a pro clip for my car, so it doesn't sits in the way while driving. it works perfectly and don't have any problems at all with it.
And regarding the molex question: this is the version without a cig plug, but with a solution to hide all your cables behind the dashboard and connect it to a power source there.

Brodit holder and Car Kit Mode
Has anyone succeeded in making the Brodit Active holder operate car kit mode - preferably by a registry tweak or the likes. In one of the other threads it's been suggested that by grounding pin 4 of the Micro USB it will automatically activate NaviPAnel the way the HTC car holder does. Has anyone tried this yet with another holder?

i just got mine... perfect!
will post some pics if i'll have the time...
LE: next I'll do something to hide the power cable...

there's only 1 problem. if you are using extended battery, it wont fit, does it?

i'm not planning to use one (that's the reason i got the active holder) and actually i think it will fit, as there is quite a large space remaining behind the phone

hmmm would be nice if there's a way to mod the other usb end to a external pack like sanyo 5500mah battery. then mount it to a bicycle.
does it connect straight to the 12v adaptor? or it has a USB type A head also?

straight to the cig plug...
now i wanna find a way to add a fix audio jack in the holder so when i put the phone in the holder to have it routed through auxiliary audio input on my stereo...

[USBHOST] DIY USB Host dongle

Problem, Samsung?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
Pinout here. With the connector plugged into the Tab, and the Tab oriented with the chat camera on top and the connector on bottom, pin 1 is to the left of the connector.
Chop off the plug end of the extender, separate out the wires, cut / strip / tin. Cut off the shield. Slide on the plastic shroud for the dock plug and a piece of heat shrink for strain relief. Don't forget this or you'll have to undo the whole thing (like I did). You might also want to cut thin heat shrink to go around each wire to protect it from shorting at the connector pins.
Solder the two resistors in series and put them between pins 13 and 15. This tells the Tab to go into OTG host mode. Be creative. Surface mount parts might be better here.
Solder:
ground (black) to pin 1
green (D+) to pin 3
white (D-) to pin 4
red (+5V) to pin 6
Test this out before shrinking the pins by plugging into the Tab along with a USB key. If it works, you should get the message above.
Once it works, put the connector shield, spring clip, and shroud on.
All said and done, this comes out to about half the price of the Samsung adapter, but at the expense of some elbow grease and potential unreliability. I expect clones will be showing up on eBay someday though, so if I've done anything useful here it's to entice our friends in China to start their assembly lines.

Clean it up and start selling them imo.

mbh87 said:
Clean it up and start selling them imo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better?
Taken before I have to ugly it up with a bit of hot glue. The connector housing is too shallow to fit the resistors and make a good strain relief with heat shrink. I also noticed that the retainer ring that holds the housing together pops right off when you unplug the connector. A little super glue needs to go there too.

Nice job dude specially since they are taking forever to release the damn thing

Lol. This is awesome goodjob. Might have to try this out

Well played
I'll give this a shot

i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out

time_shock said:
i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will pay you infinity for that, give you my firstborn, whatever you want. But seriously, what use is a "media dock" if you can't charge while I are passing hdmi thru.
Back on topic, nice job OP, that is my new weekend project

Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?

nemir said:
Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, won't work. With this you won't get the 5V power from the tablet, and you won't have the resistor on the ID pin to tell it to go into OTG mode. I suppose you could provide your own 5V power to the device, and hack the kernel to force it into OTG. But that's probably as much trouble as building a cable anyway.

This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?

ericlmccormick said:
This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.

If you create a cable that charges the Tab while using it in host mode, you could probably pull the power off the charging cable instead of from the accessory pin.
If doing that, might want a selector switch or diode to keep current from flowing into the accessory pin.
I ordered a few of the 30pin connectors yesterday and I am starting my designing now for my "docking station". I am trying to figure out if I will have 1 or 4 USBs on it.

pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Omg thankyou so much, I've been waiting for this. i was missing the two 10 ohm resistors!!!!!
Already cut up a USB and galaxy cable trying this..
will try this when i get home. im at work. let you know what i find

pokey9000 said:
Problem, Samsung?
...
Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?

joedoe said:
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't have a 20k resistor on hand, and 20k isn't a common value in smaller resistor kits. The most readily available values in the 10k range are usually 10k, 22k, and 47k.

pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.

pokey9000 said:
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does HDMI share any of the same pins as the USB? I ask because I am gonna piece together a hub and then add an HDMI cable to that, and then plug that into the media dock, and then it will be a true dock. Just need to get power for charging involved in that mix

can you try hooking up an usb microphone? I'd like to see if they will work and how well. I have a samson go mic that I wouldnt mind using as a recording tool.

Doesnt the orginal galaxy tab's hdmi dock work on the 10.1 i saw vidos of it working on the google io version should be easy to add a switch and usb to it

My Super Cheap super cool in car Nook Color Mount

How's it going everyone, I just thought I'd share the mount that I've created for my Nook Color. Excuse the pics, I took them with my phone.
Before I get into it I there is a list of requirements that I had for my mount
1. It had to be as cheap as possible
2. It had to be one that I could easily remove my NC from to avoid weather damage, theft, etc
3. I couldn't make any modifications to the vehicle because I may eventually want to sell my car.
The things that I used for the mount are
1. some double sided tape ( $4.00)
2. cable hooks ( $2.50 )
With that being said here are some pictures of them
This is the set up for my mount. It's pretty cheap but it is SUPER effective.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
If you notice, I've circled the top and the bottom to let you know how they work.
At the top you will notice two pieces on the left and the right, those are pieces of double sided tape, the reason that I put those there is because before in my first attempt, the NC would slide out and fall any time I turned my car, these add a decent amount of friction to reduce the sliding to when I make a sharp turn which is almost never.
The Velcro in the middle is from my first experiment, it doesn't do much anymore.
The bottom is 6 pieces of double sided tape, one side on the molding of the car and the other side is on the cable hooks that I used (pictured below)
Because of the shape of the molding I had to bend the hooks to make them conform. They are perfect because they are cheap enough and easy enough to bend that it wraps the NC with just enough grip so that it won't move.
Using this set up I have a mount that cost me less than 10 dollars and I love my carputer. Below are some pictures of the mount in action
Here's one during the day, you can't really see much
Here's one that I took of it at night, it's a little easier
For version 2 there are a few things that I'd like to add to take advantage of USB host mode but I have a few questions about it.
1. Does anyone know of a usb hub that I can use to be powered by and charge my NC at the same time? for example, I have a usb charger that I could use but when I use my hub I can't charge and use host mode at the same time, and I've enabled it in Nook Tweaks.
2. Does anyone know of a good enclosure that I can that has low enough requirements that the nook color can power it, or a 2.5 inch enclosure that can be powered by my cigarette lighter and then used with my NC?

Hey this is really cool. About what you were asking about how to power it, if you were going to use a hub you would probably need a high amp powered hub to be able to fast charge the Nook, otherwise it will only get a trickle charge. You would then need a cig adapter for the hub. I think a high power cig lighter usb adapter with two ports is more of what you are looking for. Keep up the good work and post your progress please.

very very nice idea..good for you

If you are fine with the regular trickle charge, you could just use a Y-Cable to add 5Volt from a external power source... that in combination with a normal USB to Micro-USB Cord + USB Genderswapper could give you the result you want...
However that way you will be limited to just one USB device, but seeing as you seem to aim for a external HDD this should be enough, right?

thanks for the suggestions, I'm looking for a good high powered usb charger for the cigarette lighter but I don't know of any that can fast charge a NC, do any of you guys have any ideas?
also the situation that I am facing with the external hd is that I can't find one that the nook can power on its own, If I could find an external powered hub to get it spinning I could use host mode that way, I just have no idea which one will do that
Edit: Can you guys see the pictures?

barnesk9 said:
thanks for the suggestions, I'm looking for a good high powered usb charger for the cigarette lighter but I don't know of any that can fast charge a NC, do any of you guys have any ideas?
also the situation that I am facing with the external hd is that I can't find one that the nook can power on its own, If I could find an external powered hub to get it spinning I could use host mode that way, I just have no idea which one will do that
Edit: Can you guys see the pictures?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes can see pics. Very cool idea, I tink I will give this a try...

other casisit
other casisit

Nicely done. You gave me some ideas....

Nook connector pinout - if somebody interested

I have traced Nook Color connector PCB lines, - no big deal, but I think this can be useful to others:
1 USB +5V
2 USB D-
3 USB D+
4 USB +5V
5 USB D-
6 USB D+
7 JACK SENSE +5V
8 GND
9 +5V
10 RED LED
11 +5V
12 GND
13 GND(green LED control)
14 AUDIO L
15 AUDIO R
16 USB ID (NC)
17 GND
Pins 1-3 and 16-17 are connected to regular microUSB pins inside connector, other pins are connected to proprietary 12 pin B&N microUSB extension. USB pins 2-5 and 3-6 are the same - this is physically one USB port. Pin 7 is connected inside OEM USB cable to the +5V rail. Green LED in OEM USB cable is static powered (grounded to GND pin in Nook), red LED is controlled via charging controller. USB ID pin is not connected, may be it's possible to use this pin to automatic enable USB host mode from outside (needs additional research).
P.S.: use this information at your own risk, i'm not responsible for any fried nooks.

I have to say thank you! This opens up a number of doors for the dead Nook USB cables. Anyone interested in putting together a charging dock with speakers? I am!

My own crazy ideas go further - I will try to use Nook PCB (I have a broken one - display is dead and touchscreen is firmly glued to the screen and not detachable) with external LVDS TFT panel and keyboard/mouse as a nettop PC.

Thanks so much for this! I've lately been musing on the concept of a dock/frame which might contain things like:
light sensor for auto brightness control, gps, microphone, speakers, extra batteries, etc.
A few questions I have for you, if you would be so kind?
Are pin 14-15 audio inputs or outputs (assuming the latter) ? Line level, or paralleled with the 3.5 jack, or what?
Maybe pin 10 would be better labeled as "Red LED Control", since it turns a transistor on in the charging cable to light the Red LED?
And I'm confused about pin 13 - "green LED control" since green is "always on" (except for that moment when you first plug it in.... Does this relate to that? )
Thanks again. How did you go about this; dead unit?

Gleb Erty said:
I have traced Nook Color connector PCB lines, - no big deal, but I think this can be useful to others:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a chance to get the trace for NOOK HD too? Where you get the PCB scheme from - or did you opened the device?

tonestertm said:
Are pin 14-15 audio inputs or outputs (assuming the latter) ? Line level, or paralleled with the 3.5 jack, or what?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Old topic but would be great to know - anyone dig into this since the original OP? I'd go nuts if I could hack a spare connector and get line level audio outs to use in the car.

The wring inside my microUSB head was broken few weeks ago and is no longer working.
I cracked open the connector itself (on the led shell) and found two of the wires were detached. On the device side has 4 solder points that presumably where the 4 color wires (red, green, black and white) were supposed to attach to,
Anyone here know how each of the wires are supposed to go to which points?
TIA.

If I wanted to wire / solder something directly to attach/solder a microUSB port to charge with the exact same charger the nook color came with, but with a standard microusb cable -- which pcb pins should I be soldering in order to get the full charge power ( and not the current 500mA that goes over a standard microusb ? )
I don't mind if the port doesn't sit will in the case, I can have it hanging outside.. Just need a way to get rid of the dependency on replacing the 12pin microusb cable everytime it goes bad.

Progress and Failure | Hacky Attempt at DIY Plug Charger
Thank you @Gleb Erty for the research!!
Fortunately, I had a Nook Color, and instead of purchasing a B&N charger, opted for the road less traveled.
@dayssincethedoor's thread on the Nook Color USB cable dissection was pretty interesting. Judging by the PCB pictures, there didn't seem to be anything out of the ordinary besides some circuitry about when to turn on the charging LED.
After some research, I sourced the part on Digikey.
The Digikey part number is A103879-ND and the manufacturer part number is 2129033-1. For those inclined, the datasheet is weird, but understandable given the current limitations at the time (.5 A or maybe 1.5A for USB 2.0?)
That said, the part is crazy delicate. The pitch is too close for ease of soldering, and the pins themselves are delicate.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
https://ibb.co/m6hHWdj
I've annotated the datasheet for posterity, but this hybrid plug is quite interesting. The 17-pin receptacle is compatible with the micro USB (5-wire) and the hybrid 12-pin plug. So, the number of pins on the receptacle is the sum of the micro-USB and hybrid-USB pins. Rad.
Additionally, for posterity's sake, note that the pin number column on the datasheet denotes the receptacle pins not the hybrid plug pins. It makes sense because a 12-pin hybrid plug doesn't have 17-pins. (This caught me in a loop for a good few minutes. )
https://ibb.co/C0M2HWg
In the context of the 12-pin Hybrid Plug, my approach, thereafter, was the following:
Solder all the GND pins together to a black wire. ( GND pins: 5, 9, 12 ). [In hindsight, should have included GND pin 10, too.]
Solder all the 5V pins together to a red wire ( 5V pins: 8, 6, 4 ).
Test for short / continuity between wires.
Inject hot glue between plug contacts for structural stability.
Power plug with 5V .5A from a bench top power supply.
Cross my fingers on left hand.
Plug in makeshift charger connector into Nook Color.
The result: A Nook Color with a fried LCD display driver. The screen is black and will remain black. Glorious.
My mistake (probably) in the following images was that I didn't solder the LED control GND pin (pin #10 on the 12-pin plug). My reasoning for this was that since I didn't need the green LED for charge notification, I can leave that GND as is because I could check the battery status on the Nook Color itself.
Big Mistake.
Targeted Pins on Nook Color Connector
Sketchy Soldering That Passed Continuity Check
Anyways~~ That's it for me on this project! I hope this helps out some other soul working on B&N's "proprietary" tablet connectors.
[TL;DR] Did not solder all GND pins and consequently damaged the LCD display driver such that the Nook is now unusable.
P.S. Sorry if the images are broken. No idea why...

Database Develop

welcome