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Mini-USB car charger / IC intelligent chip

I have the HTC orginal car charger with Mini-USB connector. This car charger has and intelligent chip "IC" to prevent overheating when charge is 100%
Now, HD2 has a MICRO connector. My question is, if I use it with a mini-to-micro converter, will this "IC" feature continue working?

Talking about this:
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And this:

wat, IC stands for integrated circuit.
Also, the charging mechanism to prevent overcharging or damage to batteries is on the device (phone) not the adapter.

Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?

Hello,i've the same thing and it works fine . All pins are connected in the adaptator .

pckshd said:
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no it's the phone that's drawing the current, not the adapter. Adapter is a "dumb" servant that serves current upon request.
the converter is just a wiring converter so again ther'es no intelligence involved.

Thank you!

I have 2 of that EXACT converters shown in the photo above... IT DOES NOT WORK!!!
For some reason, my phone will not charge when I use that adaptor... I also bought a Motorola one which works well

Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2

pckshd said:
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup That one works fine and data works also... you can charge and sync with it

I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.

Guys,
I use Motorola P513 microUSB car charger. It works like a charm. After fully charged HD2 disconnects from it so there's no possibility to overheating. I really recommend it. An it looks fancy too
http://www.motorola.com/Consumers/U...gers/P513-microUSB-Car-Charger-89143N-US-EN-2
Price about $14 in Poland

psdos said:
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... 1 have two of those and they both wont charge... not in car, via charger or anywhere else.... I was so pissed off as I got two of them... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
THe one showing in the picture... when I plug it on the cable with the other end in the cigarette lighter adaptor, the cigaretter indicator light goes out on that end as if a circuit has been cut.... this happens even without anything plugged in and happens with both adaptors I bought... nothing charges also.... pissed me off!

from what i see that is also a surge protector. 8v to 3v, being a surge protector, it has a capacitor inside, and that will naturally block all data connection.

eskasi said:
... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks

Som30ne said:
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MicroUSB-Adapter-RAZR2-SKN6252/dp/B001EJFZ5G
This is the one... as long as it looks like this... I am using it right now as I type this

Thanks for the reply.
I tried checking where and how they ship - and (as in many other cases) it seems they only shim within the US.
Since Im not in the US . . .
Is there any other one ?
About the comment that says - "as long as it looks like this" - well - I saw several of them, and as I mentioned in my previous post - they specify that they (the ones I saw) only charges the device, and when I asked the seller - they aslo claimed that it's only for charging, and does not transfer data.
(maybe they look the same on the outside, but the wiring is different ? - I wonder)

Be careful.
By the time you plug a mini USB plug into such an micro adapter, the potential leverage on the phone / micro socket will be quite considerable!

Why? What do you mean exactly?

The above one piece adaptor together with the charger's Mini USB plug is similarly rigid & I'm guessing about 2½ to 3 inches long - maybe 10 to 12 times the length of the actual micro socket! Some 10:1 leverage ratio. Maybe 3 times as much as without an adaptor.
I doubt that the design spec of a USB micro socket was ever designed to withstand the potential force that even mild accidental input leverage applied at a right angle would exert, on conversion to output leverage, on the phone's socket. For example, the leads tend to be 1 metre and are quite restricting. with the lead at right angles to the phone, 'testing' the cables length, the 'moment of force' (technical term) applied is likely to exceed the the design spec of the socket many fold.
I am suggesting there is a risk of separating the socket from the phone's chassis and/or its electrical connections to the printed circuit board within the phone.
At the vary least, due to the cables inherent stiffness, over a period of time the phones micro socket will get enlarged / bell shaped simply from small gentle leverage movements. IE. whilst USB connected, simply picking up the phone, messaging, or making a call. Eventually electrical / mechanical connections will gradually fail.
To reduce, but not eliminate this effect, I would suggest an adaptor cable as opposed to a one piece adaptor.
(Think I've waffled a bit here, but hope I've conveyed what I mean)

[USBHOST] DIY USB Host dongle

Problem, Samsung?
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Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
Pinout here. With the connector plugged into the Tab, and the Tab oriented with the chat camera on top and the connector on bottom, pin 1 is to the left of the connector.
Chop off the plug end of the extender, separate out the wires, cut / strip / tin. Cut off the shield. Slide on the plastic shroud for the dock plug and a piece of heat shrink for strain relief. Don't forget this or you'll have to undo the whole thing (like I did). You might also want to cut thin heat shrink to go around each wire to protect it from shorting at the connector pins.
Solder the two resistors in series and put them between pins 13 and 15. This tells the Tab to go into OTG host mode. Be creative. Surface mount parts might be better here.
Solder:
ground (black) to pin 1
green (D+) to pin 3
white (D-) to pin 4
red (+5V) to pin 6
Test this out before shrinking the pins by plugging into the Tab along with a USB key. If it works, you should get the message above.
Once it works, put the connector shield, spring clip, and shroud on.
All said and done, this comes out to about half the price of the Samsung adapter, but at the expense of some elbow grease and potential unreliability. I expect clones will be showing up on eBay someday though, so if I've done anything useful here it's to entice our friends in China to start their assembly lines.

Clean it up and start selling them imo.

mbh87 said:
Clean it up and start selling them imo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better?
Taken before I have to ugly it up with a bit of hot glue. The connector housing is too shallow to fit the resistors and make a good strain relief with heat shrink. I also noticed that the retainer ring that holds the housing together pops right off when you unplug the connector. A little super glue needs to go there too.

Nice job dude specially since they are taking forever to release the damn thing

Lol. This is awesome goodjob. Might have to try this out

Well played
I'll give this a shot

i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out

time_shock said:
i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will pay you infinity for that, give you my firstborn, whatever you want. But seriously, what use is a "media dock" if you can't charge while I are passing hdmi thru.
Back on topic, nice job OP, that is my new weekend project

Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?

nemir said:
Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, won't work. With this you won't get the 5V power from the tablet, and you won't have the resistor on the ID pin to tell it to go into OTG mode. I suppose you could provide your own 5V power to the device, and hack the kernel to force it into OTG. But that's probably as much trouble as building a cable anyway.

This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?

ericlmccormick said:
This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.

If you create a cable that charges the Tab while using it in host mode, you could probably pull the power off the charging cable instead of from the accessory pin.
If doing that, might want a selector switch or diode to keep current from flowing into the accessory pin.
I ordered a few of the 30pin connectors yesterday and I am starting my designing now for my "docking station". I am trying to figure out if I will have 1 or 4 USBs on it.

pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Omg thankyou so much, I've been waiting for this. i was missing the two 10 ohm resistors!!!!!
Already cut up a USB and galaxy cable trying this..
will try this when i get home. im at work. let you know what i find

pokey9000 said:
Problem, Samsung?
...
Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?

joedoe said:
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't have a 20k resistor on hand, and 20k isn't a common value in smaller resistor kits. The most readily available values in the 10k range are usually 10k, 22k, and 47k.

pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.

pokey9000 said:
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does HDMI share any of the same pins as the USB? I ask because I am gonna piece together a hub and then add an HDMI cable to that, and then plug that into the media dock, and then it will be a true dock. Just need to get power for charging involved in that mix

can you try hooking up an usb microphone? I'd like to see if they will work and how well. I have a samson go mic that I wouldnt mind using as a recording tool.

Doesnt the orginal galaxy tab's hdmi dock work on the 10.1 i saw vidos of it working on the google io version should be easy to add a switch and usb to it

MicroUSB Female 7 pin pinout

Searched through XDA and other forums found on Google and got nothing. Is there an existing pinout scheme for 7 pin microUSB female port in our phones? If there isn't, can somebody who knows how to use multimeter and disassemble Captivate tell me why the microUSB port has 5 inner and 7 outer pins? Which of these 7 pins are Data+, Data-, GND and +?
Have a cool idea about self-powered USB OTG, without information about this pinout my hands are tied.

Redhattler said:
Searched through XDA and other forums found on Google and got nothing. Is there an existing pinout scheme for 7 pin microUSB female port in our phones? If there isn't, can somebody who knows how to use multimeter and disassemble Captivate tell me why the microUSB port has 5 inner and 7 outer pins? Which of these 7 pins are Data+, Data-, GND and +?
Have a cool idea about self-powered USB OTG, without information about this pinout my hands are tied.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is a 5 pin connector, not 7.
google 'micro usb pinout' and you will find several links, including wiki
charging with otg is prevented by power management chip in captivate. in otg mode, the phone is the power source for usb, not the load.

laughingT said:
it is a 5 pin connector, not 7.
google 'micro usb pinout' and you will find several links, including wiki
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 7 pins coming from the rear part of the connector, not 5. Other 2 are used for additional supply or something else.

not on captivate sgh-i897. you must be confusing something else for pins. it is a standard micro usb b type connection.
I've done both charging and data transfer with generic cables.
http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
the cable has a shield, separate from ground pin 5, that is attached to the metal outer D, surrounding the pins, on one end only of the cable. one end only prevents ground loops. shield envelops all wires for length of entire cable and prevents stray EM fields from interfering with data - this in addition to twisting, which also does some, allowing higher data rate than straight wires.
so, there is a connection for the shield on every usb connector, but the shield is never connected on device end. this one of the diffs in otg, when shield is connected at phone because it is the host. my educated guess is that you are looking at two shield connections - perhaps one dead ends or isn't connected in standard device mode cable, the other one is common with ground in otg cable.

laughingT said:
not on captivate sgh-i897. you must be confusing something else for pins. it is a standard micro usb b type connection.
I've done both charging and data transfer with generic cables.
http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In this guide there are shown inner pins, not the outer. By the outer pins I mean those which are connected to the PCB (mainboard).

Redhattler said:
In this guide there are shown inner pins, not the outer. By the outer pins I mean those which are connected to the PCB (mainboard).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
see shield function note above.
shield continuity test to ground pin 5 would confirm it.
S12345S would be the seven connections and only one S would have continuity to ground. it might be S54321S as you are viewing it.
again, this is guess, but testable.

laughingT said:
see shield function note above.
shield continuity test to ground pin 5 would confirm it.
S12345S would be the seven connections and only one S would have continuity to ground. it might be S54321S as you are viewing it.
again, this is guess, but testable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read about +2 pins for phone working w/o battery attached in some cases. After some soldering experiments my PCB isn't charging and it isn't recognized by PC. I'll test it after buying a multimeter and restoring USB port.

Redhattler said:
I've read about +2 pins for phone working w/o battery attached in some cases. After some soldering experiments my PCB isn't charging and it isn't recognized by PC. I'll test it after buying a multimeter and restoring USB port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem,
In PCB connection side of the female socket of microUSB, there are 7 pins,
when i measure the connections with a multimeter,
GND / GND / X / X / X/ X/ 5V
are the connection row,
The GND plane is everywhere, so i can fix the problem but, i couldn't find, where the 5V trace goes
(there are some diodes and capacitors near the 5V pin but these are so so small (0201 i think and my magnifying glass is just 8X) so i couldn't find where it connects, )
And maybe the problem is the connection lost because of the trace or a bulk diode.
If you can find a solution the fix your problem, please share with me too =)

I know this is an old thread but since I was unable to find the answer any where I thought I would post this. What Redhatter is referring to is the PHONE side of the USB, not the cord side. The cord side is standard USB as laughingT pointed out, the phone side is 7 pins. After tearing apart a Samsung charging port the pinout on the phone side is
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
VCC | RX TX NC | GND
1,3,4,5,7 matches 1,2,3,4,5 respectively on the USB side. inside the connector the 2 and 6 pins stop short. 6 is ground as Redhatter pointed out. My guess is the 2 pin is an extra logic pin. When a Samsung cable is used instead of a generic cable 2 and 6 get connected in the cable and brings the logic circuit low most likely to enable either faster charging or higher data transfers. It may connect 2 and 1 enabling the phone to work off of a charger without a battery or 2 and 6 connect triggering a switch allowing the phone to isolate power from the battery and run off of the cable, but only with the right cable. However the latter seems like a pretty dirty solution that could easily be accomplished inside the phone with a mechanical switch. Unless the end goal was to sell more cables if customers wanted the feature.

Venomous Duck said:
1,3,4,5,7 matches 1,2,3,4,5 respectively on the USB side. inside the connector the 2 and 6 pins stop short. 6 is ground as Redhatter pointed out. My guess is the 2 pin is an extra logic pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is awesome, thanks! I've replaced the USB end (PCB + flex + microphone) to my S2 GT-I9100 twice now, and this time it's been only around 1-2 months and I have charging problems. So I was looking for the physical connectors on eBay I could try soldering (I have the old PCB's so I can practise). And then I really began to wonder why 7 pins, which leads me here.
My indirect experience on the extra pins: when I had charging problems for the first time, nudging the charger cable could trigger the phone to think it's been connected to car system, I got Driving mode on stock rom. So the extra pins are used, but I have no details.
I'm now thinking if using a generic cable is bad practise in case of these Samsung 7-pins, because I've heard S2's charging fine through years, and mine doesn't (I use all kinds of chargers / cables)? Replacing the USB PCB + flex is easy, but who orders them for later use? It's always busy time when you cannot charge properly...

Some-E said:
This is awesome, thanks! I've replaced the USB end (PCB + flex + microphone) to my S2 GT-I9100 twice now, and this time it's been only around 1-2 months and I have charging problems. So I was looking for the physical connectors on eBay I could try soldering (I have the old PCB's so I can practise). And then I really began to wonder why 7 pins, which leads me here.
My indirect experience on the extra pins: when I had charging problems for the first time, nudging the charger cable could trigger the phone to think it's been connected to car system, I got Driving mode on stock rom. So the extra pins are used, but I have no details.
I'm now thinking if using a generic cable is bad practise in case of these Samsung 7-pins, because I've heard S2's charging fine through years, and mine doesn't (I use all kinds of chargers / cables)? Replacing the USB PCB + flex is easy, but who orders them for later use? It's always busy time when you cannot charge properly...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe all samsungs have this type of connector. I have figured out (through sloppy soldering on my Galaxy S) that grounding pin 2 brings the phone to Dock Mode. Basically Andriod docks, like what originally came in early GM cars, has 2 and 6 connected. When you plug your phone into a media dock, 2 gets connected to 6 to bring it low (grounded). And yes, generic cables are most likely the cause of you port problems. They usually fit very loose, causing bent pins or literately pulling the pins from the PCB. I have had the best luck with factory LG cables.

have a zoom image Samsung Galaxy ACE 2 phone model I8160 USB area of the printed circuit board? The USB connector removed had 5 pins only now the universal replacement
has 7 pins that do not match the exact circuit solder connections. The new USB parts
have a total of 9 pins, 5 in the middle of the two pins on the left and two pins on the right
the two outside pins are welded together representing one pin on each side as pin 1 and pin 7 with 5 pins in between. The problem is the pins do not match the circuit board exact
Here is the source for Samsung Galaxy Ace 2 I8160, mini USB replacement parts
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Nexus 10 Car Install

Alright so I made that dock for when the Nexus 10 is at home, but what if I want it in the car? Next project! I basically used the Exogear Tablet Mount along with Pogo Cable and Griffin Bluetooth Adapter to fully intergrate the Nexus 10 into my car. Thought I'd write up the details just like the dock in case anyone wanted to give it a go.
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There's actually a lot that went into this, because:
1) It charges the tablet
2) Integrates with my car speakers
3) Is tethered to my phone, also mounted in the car
Stuff Used:
1) Tablet Mount
2) Pogo Cable
3) Phone Mount
4) Tablet Bluetooth
5) Phone Bluetooth
6) Power Adapter
7) Add a Circuit
8) Cigarette Lighter Adapter
9) AUX mixer
10) AUX Cable
11) PIE Interface
12) RCA Cable
13) Passive Amp
14) Ground Loop isolator
Step by Step
Step one was finding a mount/holder for the tablet. This one from exogear worked perfectly. I wanted charging, so I knew I wanted to integrate the pogo cable in somehow. I thought I would have to mod the holder a little but it was perfect as is - the pogo fits snuggly in the bottom:
Just force the usb end of the pogo into the hole at the bottom of the holder and you're good to go. I won't go into the details of removing the dash because every car is different, so I'l just say, get that cable inside the dash and leave it for now, we'll get back to it later. Lets stay on the outside for now. Next step, mount the phone:
Pretty simple. I found this mount to be the best - it was simple and allowed me to mount and dismount the phone quickly. I zip tied a charging cable for my phone and snaked that into the dash.
I integrated to my car stereo through bluetooth. But I wanted both the phone and the tablet to be connected. So I got two bluetooth devices. The trip here was to find ones that would auto connect without pressing any buttons on them since at least one would be behind the dash. And this was surprisingly hard to find. But this one from Griffin was exactly what I needed. It just plugs into a cigarette lighter and has a cable for Aux fro sound.
For the phone, I wanted one that I could use for calls and could control the phone with. So I mounted this little guy from Kinivo to the steering wheel. The one wire coming out of it split at the end to an aux for audio and a cigarette lighter plug. Bring that cable inside the dash.
Ok, so inside the dash is where all the magic happens.
So now we have to power everything. We have the following: USB from the pogo of the tablet, USB for the phone, 2 cigarette lighter plugs. Let's plug it all into this guy
But first you're going to have to modify it a little bit. So even though it says it can output 2.1A and 1A, that's only for apple products. Android handles things a little differently. If android detects that you're plugged into a usb port rather than a wall charger, it will only pull 500 mA regardless of what current is available. So we need to tell android that this is a higher current source. We do this by soldering the the two data lines in the usb together. The data lines are the middle two of the four. Just open up the case for the adapter and drop a ball of solder on the board for the middle two pins of both USB connectors. Trust me it works!
Now we need to plug the adapter into a power source. The easiest way to do this is to plug it into and cigarette lighter. But you don't find those inside the dash and I didn't want any cable on the outside, at least as little as possible. I wanted all the guts to be hidden. So for me, I had the fuse box under the driver's side dash which I wanted to tap into, and I think most cars have a fuse box in the same area. Find a fuse that is only powered when the engine is off. This is important, we don't want to drain the battery when the car is off. Once you find the fuse, get yourself an Add a Circuit . Very handly little guy. I used a 7.5 Amp fuse which was more than enough current to power everything.
Once you got that in, you'll need a cigarette lighter adapter. Connect that into your add a circuit and plug your power adapter into it and, boom, everything is powered.
Now we have to deal with the audio. I wanted both devices to have access to the speakers at the same time. So I needed a mixer. The strange thing is there is no such thing available for sale that I could find. I only saw stuff for high end musical equipment and so on. So I had to build my own. There's good guide how to do that here so i won't detail the instructions here. Those instructions are to build a 4 to 1 mixer, but we only need a 2 to 1, so it's a bit more simple but the basics are the same.
OK once you have that, plug your two AUX cable into the input and get yourself an Aux cable for the output.
So is where each car is different, but you need to get a PIE interface. Just find one for whatever car you have and use it with RCA Cable to hook into your car stereo.
Bonuses
1) If you find that you're volume is pretty low (which is likely due to the mixer), you'll need to get yourself an amp and put it in line. I got a passive one from here :http://phpaudio.jigsy.com/passive-preamp and I can vouch that it works great.
2) Be aware of the ground loop. If you're hearing excess noise, you might be coupled into you car's ground loop. The telltale of this is if the pitch of the static noise changes as you accelerate. If you get that, there's an easy fix. Get yourself a ground loop isolator to put in line.
Software
To wrap up, there are a few pieces of software that make the thing even better. One is of course Tasker. Set it up so that your phone automatically turn on wifi tether when it connects to both the bluetooth of the car and to the tablet. Second is Tablet Talk. It allows you to dial, answer and make calls from the tablet. It's an awesome piece of software and has great Tasker integration.
That's all I got!

I have only one thing to say....Wow!

Dude, nice! Great thorough guide...I will seriously consider doing this!

This is awesome. Well done
I'm STILL waiting for the official dock, or a dock that charges and has aux sound through Pogo, to start my car build. So I can charge and have aux sound run through the dock.

Generic USB cable won't charge Nook HD, how to modify it ?

Hi,
i bought used Nook HD with generic ac<>usb charger + generic usb cable.
And i notice that using that generic usb cable does not charge the device, and
only lights up to green led indicator [ and stay that way].
Searched forum found out that on original cable B&N there is somewhere set
resistor that make nook take charge.
I am ready to modify that generic usb cable when i know what exact thing
i need to do.
Thanks for the help.

I think you can just connect/short the two data wires.

twiztid_ said:
I think you can just connect/short the two data wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Showrted D+ and D- on the Nook HD side and didn't work.
Thanks.

Charging problem partially solved
I was able to get the nook to start the charger light on with a hardware modification.
I used two pull down resistors of 15k on D+ and D- lines of usb. This made the charging light go to red instead of green. Red indicates charging.
( Note : Later I found out that only one resistor on D+ to ground is sufficient to do slow charging. Finally i resorted to shorting D+ and D- and pull down with a 15k resistor )
This is the basic specification of USB host.
When i connected the nook to pc and powered on the pc , nook instantly started to charge with red led before os started. and during the pc boot there will definitely never be a
usb bus remuneration. This prompted me to put the pull down resistors.
I believe that there may be some other value resistor to be placed on d+ or d- line for the software to detect nook is charging as this are the only pins available in charger cable other than power pins.
But the software still does not recognizes the charging state. The software still says it is discharging the battery. But the battery is charging slowly.I still have to resolve the issue.
I am using a 3A charger with LM2577 chip based board adjusted to provide 5V @ 3A.
Any comments.

purenoise said:
Hi,
i bought used Nook HD with generic ac<>usb charger + generic usb cable.
And i notice that using that generic usb cable does not charge the device, and
only lights up to green led indicator [ and stay that way].
Searched forum found out that on original cable B&N there is somewhere set
resistor that make nook take charge.
I am ready to modify that generic usb cable when i know what exact thing
i need to do.
Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Assuming that the charger will charge other Android tablets and phones then the fault is in the cable. If not then the fault is in the charger and you could spend a while with resistors and what not, or you can buy a cheap Anker or other compatible charger that does the job properly.
If its is the cable at fault its usually really simple to fix the cable. If you look really closely at the 30-pin connector you'll see that some pins are shorter than others. The Data pins and Earth are ever so slightly longer than the charging power pin by a fraction of a mm. If that charging pin doesn't make good contact it won't charge the Nook.
Unlike the original B&N cables the generic cable casing isn't moulded to the cable's data pin carrier, and it has two slots in thye outer connector housing into which the pin carrier will sit. If the housing gets twisted slightly you can usually hear a creaking sound from the connector and if you are pushing it home at this point there is a very high chance of the pin carrier dropping back a tiny fraction. In this lower position the cable will only show a green light, never a charging light.
If you pop open the generic cables connector using the two lugs on its edge you will see the two ridges that I refer to on the inside of the moulding. To confirm that nothing else is broken you can now connect the pin carrier directly to the Nook and wait a few seconds for the lamp to light green, then drop to orange to indicate charging.
Now you know the cable is sound you can glue the pin carrier to the upper slot in the connector and it will never drop down again. Clip the connector housing together again and you should be good to go.
We have three original cables and 4 generic cables. All 4 of these have needed glueing into place due to them not charging the Nooks.
---------- Post added 6th March 2016 at 12:04 AM ---------- Previous post was 5th March 2016 at 11:59 PM ----------
mailads said:
I was able to get the nook to start the charger light on with a hardware modification.
I used two pull down resistors of 15k on D+ and D- lines of usb. This made the charging light go to red instead of green. Red indicates charging.
( Note : Later I found out that only one resistor on D+ to ground is sufficient to do slow charging. Finally i resorted to shorting D+ and D- and pull down with a 15k resistor )
This is the basic specification of USB host.
When i connected the nook to pc and powered on the pc , nook instantly started to charge with red led before os started. and during the pc boot there will definitely never be a
usb bus remuneration. This prompted me to put the pull down resistors.
I believe that there may be some other value resistor to be placed on d+ or d- line for the software to detect nook is charging as this are the only pins available in charger cable other than power pins.
But the software still does not recognizes the charging state. The software still says it is discharging the battery. But the battery is charging slowly.I still have to resolve the issue.
I am using a 3A charger with LM2577 chip based board adjusted to provide 5V @ 3A.
Any comments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've just noticed the last post. That charger just wasn't built for Android charging. Any charger that copes with a Samsung Galaxy Tab or a Nexus Tablet will charge the NookHD and NookHD+ with no need to resort to modifying the cable.
The Anker IO range works very well.
I suggest you use one of the compatible chargers and make life a bit easier.

simon-edwards said:
Assuming that the charger will charge other Android tablets and phones then the fault is in the cable. If not then the fault is in the charger and you could spend a while with resistors and what not, or you can buy a cheap Anker or other compatible charger that does the job properly.
If its is the cable at fault its usually really simple to fix the cable. If you look really closely at the 30-pin connector you'll see that some pins are shorter than others. The Data pins and Earth are ever so slightly longer than the charging power pin by a fraction of a mm. If that charging pin doesn't make good contact it won't charge the Nook.
Unlike the original B&N cables the generic cable casing isn't moulded to the cable's data pin carrier, and it has two slots in thye outer connector housing into which the pin carrier will sit. If the housing gets twisted slightly you can usually hear a creaking sound from the connector and if you are pushing it home at this point there is a very high chance of the pin carrier dropping back a tiny fraction. In this lower position the cable will only show a green light, never a charging light.
If you pop open the generic cables connector using the two lugs on its edge you will see the two ridges that I refer to on the inside of the moulding. To confirm that nothing else is broken you can now connect the pin carrier directly to the Nook and wait a few seconds for the lamp to light green, then drop to orange to indicate charging.
Now you know the cable is sound you can glue the pin carrier to the upper slot in the connector and it will never drop down again. Clip the connector housing together again and you should be good to go.
We have three original cables and 4 generic cables. All 4 of these have needed glueing into place due to them not charging the Nooks.
---------- Post added 6th March 2016 at 12:04 AM ---------- Previous post was 5th March 2016 at 11:59 PM ----------
I've just noticed the last post. That charger just wasn't built for Android charging. Any charger that copes with a Samsung Galaxy Tab or a Nexus Tablet will charge the NookHD and NookHD+ with no need to resort to modifying the cable.
The Anker IO range works very well.
I suggest you use one of the compatible chargers and make life a bit easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opened connector casing, and even removed metallic holder,
connected to the device - still just green.
Connector made solid, and nothing cracking.

mailads said:
I was able to get the nook to start the charger light on with a hardware modification.
I used two pull down resistors of 15k on D+ and D- lines of usb. This made the charging light go to red instead of green. Red indicates charging.
( Note : Later I found out that only one resistor on D+ to ground is sufficient to do slow charging. Finally i resorted to shorting D+ and D- and pull down with a 15k resistor )
Any comments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
can you point me to the pics/specs of that resistors,
would like to try, but
not sure how that resistors looks like.
Thanks.