Searched through XDA and other forums found on Google and got nothing. Is there an existing pinout scheme for 7 pin microUSB female port in our phones? If there isn't, can somebody who knows how to use multimeter and disassemble Captivate tell me why the microUSB port has 5 inner and 7 outer pins? Which of these 7 pins are Data+, Data-, GND and +?
Have a cool idea about self-powered USB OTG, without information about this pinout my hands are tied.
Redhattler said:
Searched through XDA and other forums found on Google and got nothing. Is there an existing pinout scheme for 7 pin microUSB female port in our phones? If there isn't, can somebody who knows how to use multimeter and disassemble Captivate tell me why the microUSB port has 5 inner and 7 outer pins? Which of these 7 pins are Data+, Data-, GND and +?
Have a cool idea about self-powered USB OTG, without information about this pinout my hands are tied.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is a 5 pin connector, not 7.
google 'micro usb pinout' and you will find several links, including wiki
charging with otg is prevented by power management chip in captivate. in otg mode, the phone is the power source for usb, not the load.
laughingT said:
it is a 5 pin connector, not 7.
google 'micro usb pinout' and you will find several links, including wiki
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 7 pins coming from the rear part of the connector, not 5. Other 2 are used for additional supply or something else.
not on captivate sgh-i897. you must be confusing something else for pins. it is a standard micro usb b type connection.
I've done both charging and data transfer with generic cables.
http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
the cable has a shield, separate from ground pin 5, that is attached to the metal outer D, surrounding the pins, on one end only of the cable. one end only prevents ground loops. shield envelops all wires for length of entire cable and prevents stray EM fields from interfering with data - this in addition to twisting, which also does some, allowing higher data rate than straight wires.
so, there is a connection for the shield on every usb connector, but the shield is never connected on device end. this one of the diffs in otg, when shield is connected at phone because it is the host. my educated guess is that you are looking at two shield connections - perhaps one dead ends or isn't connected in standard device mode cable, the other one is common with ground in otg cable.
laughingT said:
not on captivate sgh-i897. you must be confusing something else for pins. it is a standard micro usb b type connection.
I've done both charging and data transfer with generic cables.
http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In this guide there are shown inner pins, not the outer. By the outer pins I mean those which are connected to the PCB (mainboard).
Redhattler said:
In this guide there are shown inner pins, not the outer. By the outer pins I mean those which are connected to the PCB (mainboard).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
see shield function note above.
shield continuity test to ground pin 5 would confirm it.
S12345S would be the seven connections and only one S would have continuity to ground. it might be S54321S as you are viewing it.
again, this is guess, but testable.
laughingT said:
see shield function note above.
shield continuity test to ground pin 5 would confirm it.
S12345S would be the seven connections and only one S would have continuity to ground. it might be S54321S as you are viewing it.
again, this is guess, but testable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read about +2 pins for phone working w/o battery attached in some cases. After some soldering experiments my PCB isn't charging and it isn't recognized by PC. I'll test it after buying a multimeter and restoring USB port.
Redhattler said:
I've read about +2 pins for phone working w/o battery attached in some cases. After some soldering experiments my PCB isn't charging and it isn't recognized by PC. I'll test it after buying a multimeter and restoring USB port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem,
In PCB connection side of the female socket of microUSB, there are 7 pins,
when i measure the connections with a multimeter,
GND / GND / X / X / X/ X/ 5V
are the connection row,
The GND plane is everywhere, so i can fix the problem but, i couldn't find, where the 5V trace goes
(there are some diodes and capacitors near the 5V pin but these are so so small (0201 i think and my magnifying glass is just 8X) so i couldn't find where it connects, )
And maybe the problem is the connection lost because of the trace or a bulk diode.
If you can find a solution the fix your problem, please share with me too =)
I know this is an old thread but since I was unable to find the answer any where I thought I would post this. What Redhatter is referring to is the PHONE side of the USB, not the cord side. The cord side is standard USB as laughingT pointed out, the phone side is 7 pins. After tearing apart a Samsung charging port the pinout on the phone side is
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
VCC | RX TX NC | GND
1,3,4,5,7 matches 1,2,3,4,5 respectively on the USB side. inside the connector the 2 and 6 pins stop short. 6 is ground as Redhatter pointed out. My guess is the 2 pin is an extra logic pin. When a Samsung cable is used instead of a generic cable 2 and 6 get connected in the cable and brings the logic circuit low most likely to enable either faster charging or higher data transfers. It may connect 2 and 1 enabling the phone to work off of a charger without a battery or 2 and 6 connect triggering a switch allowing the phone to isolate power from the battery and run off of the cable, but only with the right cable. However the latter seems like a pretty dirty solution that could easily be accomplished inside the phone with a mechanical switch. Unless the end goal was to sell more cables if customers wanted the feature.
Venomous Duck said:
1,3,4,5,7 matches 1,2,3,4,5 respectively on the USB side. inside the connector the 2 and 6 pins stop short. 6 is ground as Redhatter pointed out. My guess is the 2 pin is an extra logic pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is awesome, thanks! I've replaced the USB end (PCB + flex + microphone) to my S2 GT-I9100 twice now, and this time it's been only around 1-2 months and I have charging problems. So I was looking for the physical connectors on eBay I could try soldering (I have the old PCB's so I can practise). And then I really began to wonder why 7 pins, which leads me here.
My indirect experience on the extra pins: when I had charging problems for the first time, nudging the charger cable could trigger the phone to think it's been connected to car system, I got Driving mode on stock rom. So the extra pins are used, but I have no details.
I'm now thinking if using a generic cable is bad practise in case of these Samsung 7-pins, because I've heard S2's charging fine through years, and mine doesn't (I use all kinds of chargers / cables)? Replacing the USB PCB + flex is easy, but who orders them for later use? It's always busy time when you cannot charge properly...
Some-E said:
This is awesome, thanks! I've replaced the USB end (PCB + flex + microphone) to my S2 GT-I9100 twice now, and this time it's been only around 1-2 months and I have charging problems. So I was looking for the physical connectors on eBay I could try soldering (I have the old PCB's so I can practise). And then I really began to wonder why 7 pins, which leads me here.
My indirect experience on the extra pins: when I had charging problems for the first time, nudging the charger cable could trigger the phone to think it's been connected to car system, I got Driving mode on stock rom. So the extra pins are used, but I have no details.
I'm now thinking if using a generic cable is bad practise in case of these Samsung 7-pins, because I've heard S2's charging fine through years, and mine doesn't (I use all kinds of chargers / cables)? Replacing the USB PCB + flex is easy, but who orders them for later use? It's always busy time when you cannot charge properly...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe all samsungs have this type of connector. I have figured out (through sloppy soldering on my Galaxy S) that grounding pin 2 brings the phone to Dock Mode. Basically Andriod docks, like what originally came in early GM cars, has 2 and 6 connected. When you plug your phone into a media dock, 2 gets connected to 6 to bring it low (grounded). And yes, generic cables are most likely the cause of you port problems. They usually fit very loose, causing bent pins or literately pulling the pins from the PCB. I have had the best luck with factory LG cables.
have a zoom image Samsung Galaxy ACE 2 phone model I8160 USB area of the printed circuit board? The USB connector removed had 5 pins only now the universal replacement
has 7 pins that do not match the exact circuit solder connections. The new USB parts
have a total of 9 pins, 5 in the middle of the two pins on the left and two pins on the right
the two outside pins are welded together representing one pin on each side as pin 1 and pin 7 with 5 pins in between. The problem is the pins do not match the circuit board exact
Here is the source for Samsung Galaxy Ace 2 I8160, mini USB replacement parts
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Related
hi, all. there is a rumor going around that the tilt will have problems if we frequently use non-original charger or usb cable (the one came with tilt) to charge the phone or transfer data such as causing the tilt not functioning or possibly burn out the device/battery, is that true??? do we always use the original usb cable and charger for charging the ATT tilt or transfering data? cuz I m currently using a usb car adapter to charge the tilt. I m really scare of it if this rumor is true. I don't want my tilt get burnt out. Please confirm or disconfirm it.. many thx
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Rudegar said:
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the confirmation. seriously, I didn't believe that a usb cable will cause such serious problems since there is only minor difference in the original cable and a regular usb cable. they all look the same internally except for the terminal shape.
as an extra safety precaution, i wouldn't start the car with the tilt plugged in. might be nothing, might be something. once the car is running then i'd plug the tilt in....
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Don't plug the phone in while the moon is out and the planets are aligned, it could cause the charger to spike and then brike your phone. j/k
My buddy had a problem with his USB. I think he put in a funky cable and it bent the connectors that are in the mini usb hole. Careful careful.
I would have to agree with that any usb be fine but be careful. When I first got my tilt awhile back I got this free usb car charger with it. It worked fine but something broke on the inside of it cause i could hear rattling inside. Prob a chip or something to tell the charger to stop charging if batttery is full. Well long story short I fried my usb connection and could not charge my phone or sync it. End up exchanging my Tilt out for a new one.
I am using the same USB cable to charge and sync since my Cingular 8125. I never charge using AC power.
As for car chargers, here is a simple way to check for potential power surges during starting:
1) Turn your key to "ON" but don't actually crank it. Let the radio come on and start playing. Now start the engine. Did your radio cut off during ignition?
-If Yes, unplug devices before starting because your car is not wired to supply continuous power to its outlets.
2) With your car off, and the key removed, plug in your phone. Does it start charging?
-If No, wait until the engine is running before plugging in your phone.
I am able to keep my phone connected at all times because as part of my ~$2000 audio upgrade, I also added an industrial-grade circuit breaker (not a fuse, an actual circuit breaker) between my battery and the inside of the car. In 4 years of running it, I have yet to stress it enough to pop.
Oh nice, I haven't seen too many breakers in a car. Saves on those uber expensive fuses.
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
I bought a sweet 3 in 1 charger kit from frys for 20 dolla..
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Be jealous it's ok!
http://www.wirelessemporium.com/pro...-1-mobile-phone-charger-motorola-razr2-v9.asp
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Of course store guys are going to say that. That's what HTC says. And Store Guys are nothing but Puppets who read papers given to them by corporate and they recite them. Plus they can charge you more, there for make more money, if they sell you a OEM Charger then a "compatible" charger.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_ExtUSB
Plus the cable I got with my Tilt works just like a Standard USB cable so I don't think there is an issue. But what I'd like to see is the Numbers. Using the "HTC USB Sync cable" and a standard USB cable what amps are being sent. And What does the Device Prefer?
It can't use the name mini usb if it's not mini usb. I have a zippy belkin mini usb and it works greeeeat.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just make sure that your car charger has a fuse. If needed, change the fuse to a lower type (one that is just above the recommended for the Tilt, .5a is what I think it draws at). This will protect it from spikes when you start the car.
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used so many different types of USB cables and/or chargers on my Tilt. I have not once had an issue. Just make sure the power ratings are correct and you're good.
Whilst I normally subscribe to the view that the HTC branded part is no better than a decent quality 3rd party part, I have had issues with non-HTC chargers.
I manage the BlackBerries at work, and have tried numerous BB miniUSB chargers (The one with the cord hard wired and the one which is effectively a mains plug to female USB) and neither work with my Kaiser.
I also had issues with car cigarette lighter to USB adapters. As soon as I obtained an official HTC car charger, all the problems went away.
Scott_F said:
...
I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't supply more current then the device can consume. The number on the charger just shows the highest value of a current the charger can produce without dropping the voltage.
I bought a Cell phone & USB charging kit from BestBuy today and my Tilt got fried when I connected it to this charger after the car had already started. I just noticed the charger output is 5.3V 0.5A whereas the battery pack is only 3.7V ???
hey improtant question. i think that the usb port in the kaiser actually dose get messed up using other chargers. i belive this becouse i used to be able to charge with any charger like some of you but now only htc's charger works. and that sucks but whatever the bad part is the headphones downt work any more. cany any one else that has to use htc's charger confirm that the headphones no longer work?
I've seen issues with various chargers (including one for the Dopod 838pro, Motorolla, and no-name car chargers), where I've seen it not activate the charging mode on the PDA intermittently. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to conclusively rule out that the HTC original chargers will work 100% of the time either, since that particular Tilt unit wasn't mine.
Also for some reason, I've had this accessory fail to connect to the headphones port after using it for a while (with a car charger connected). Fortunately, i had bought a few (for myself and others), and the port on the HTC is still working. So maybe you can try another headphone accessory and see if it's really the port on the HTC that is dead.
From my personal experience, testing, and reading on these forums, it appears that there are three conditions that need to be satisfied for reliable use of the USB port:
First - The Mechanical Fit
Standard mini-USB connecters DO NOT fit the same as the HTC extended USB implementation. To address this, I use the HTC signal splitter (headphone+charger/sync) on almost all standard USB cables for chargeing. It's fully compliant with the HTC in all ways and has added benefits. (see below)
Second - Pinout
The charging circuit in the Tilt (and others) can be finicky with regard to whether or not it works using a standard USB cable. The HTC splitter solves that and allows slow charging from virtually any USB compliant source. I also have the adapter from http://www.pocketpctechs.com/ in my car that even allows you to select the fast charge or slow charge pinout via a switch. (VERY COOL) This works great because I'm usually looking for the fast charge in the car. (Note... fast charge is disabled when transferring data via USB)
Third - Electrical Spec
Voltage is 5V for all USB outputs. Spikes generated in a car are pretty tough to transmit past the step down circuit/ic in the auto USB power adapters. I have never heard of a device being damaged by a spike from the car via one of these adapters. The chip itself would fail to open before frying the USB power client (aka the Phone).
Current draw for these phones is 0.5A for slow charging and around 1A+ for fast charging. This is determined by the pinout of the cable you are using. Slow charge is the default on all data type cables. Some cables sold as "charging cables" enable the fast charge. (The PPC Techs cable has the switch to do this) I recommend using at least 750mA chargers to allow the phone to have enough current to run the gps, bluetooth, etc with the screen brightness turned up and still have a small excess trickle to charge the battery.
I hope this summary helps a bit.
Cheers!
I have the HTC orginal car charger with Mini-USB connector. This car charger has and intelligent chip "IC" to prevent overheating when charge is 100%
Now, HD2 has a MICRO connector. My question is, if I use it with a mini-to-micro converter, will this "IC" feature continue working?
Talking about this:
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And this:
wat, IC stands for integrated circuit.
Also, the charging mechanism to prevent overcharging or damage to batteries is on the device (phone) not the adapter.
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Hello,i've the same thing and it works fine . All pins are connected in the adaptator .
pckshd said:
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no it's the phone that's drawing the current, not the adapter. Adapter is a "dumb" servant that serves current upon request.
the converter is just a wiring converter so again ther'es no intelligence involved.
Thank you!
I have 2 of that EXACT converters shown in the photo above... IT DOES NOT WORK!!!
For some reason, my phone will not charge when I use that adaptor... I also bought a Motorola one which works well
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
pckshd said:
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup That one works fine and data works also... you can charge and sync with it
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Guys,
I use Motorola P513 microUSB car charger. It works like a charm. After fully charged HD2 disconnects from it so there's no possibility to overheating. I really recommend it. An it looks fancy too
http://www.motorola.com/Consumers/U...gers/P513-microUSB-Car-Charger-89143N-US-EN-2
Price about $14 in Poland
psdos said:
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... 1 have two of those and they both wont charge... not in car, via charger or anywhere else.... I was so pissed off as I got two of them... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
THe one showing in the picture... when I plug it on the cable with the other end in the cigarette lighter adaptor, the cigaretter indicator light goes out on that end as if a circuit has been cut.... this happens even without anything plugged in and happens with both adaptors I bought... nothing charges also.... pissed me off!
from what i see that is also a surge protector. 8v to 3v, being a surge protector, it has a capacitor inside, and that will naturally block all data connection.
eskasi said:
... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Som30ne said:
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MicroUSB-Adapter-RAZR2-SKN6252/dp/B001EJFZ5G
This is the one... as long as it looks like this... I am using it right now as I type this
Thanks for the reply.
I tried checking where and how they ship - and (as in many other cases) it seems they only shim within the US.
Since Im not in the US . . .
Is there any other one ?
About the comment that says - "as long as it looks like this" - well - I saw several of them, and as I mentioned in my previous post - they specify that they (the ones I saw) only charges the device, and when I asked the seller - they aslo claimed that it's only for charging, and does not transfer data.
(maybe they look the same on the outside, but the wiring is different ? - I wonder)
Be careful.
By the time you plug a mini USB plug into such an micro adapter, the potential leverage on the phone / micro socket will be quite considerable!
Why? What do you mean exactly?
The above one piece adaptor together with the charger's Mini USB plug is similarly rigid & I'm guessing about 2½ to 3 inches long - maybe 10 to 12 times the length of the actual micro socket! Some 10:1 leverage ratio. Maybe 3 times as much as without an adaptor.
I doubt that the design spec of a USB micro socket was ever designed to withstand the potential force that even mild accidental input leverage applied at a right angle would exert, on conversion to output leverage, on the phone's socket. For example, the leads tend to be 1 metre and are quite restricting. with the lead at right angles to the phone, 'testing' the cables length, the 'moment of force' (technical term) applied is likely to exceed the the design spec of the socket many fold.
I am suggesting there is a risk of separating the socket from the phone's chassis and/or its electrical connections to the printed circuit board within the phone.
At the vary least, due to the cables inherent stiffness, over a period of time the phones micro socket will get enlarged / bell shaped simply from small gentle leverage movements. IE. whilst USB connected, simply picking up the phone, messaging, or making a call. Eventually electrical / mechanical connections will gradually fail.
To reduce, but not eliminate this effect, I would suggest an adaptor cable as opposed to a one piece adaptor.
(Think I've waffled a bit here, but hope I've conveyed what I mean)
Problem, Samsung?
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Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
Pinout here. With the connector plugged into the Tab, and the Tab oriented with the chat camera on top and the connector on bottom, pin 1 is to the left of the connector.
Chop off the plug end of the extender, separate out the wires, cut / strip / tin. Cut off the shield. Slide on the plastic shroud for the dock plug and a piece of heat shrink for strain relief. Don't forget this or you'll have to undo the whole thing (like I did). You might also want to cut thin heat shrink to go around each wire to protect it from shorting at the connector pins.
Solder the two resistors in series and put them between pins 13 and 15. This tells the Tab to go into OTG host mode. Be creative. Surface mount parts might be better here.
Solder:
ground (black) to pin 1
green (D+) to pin 3
white (D-) to pin 4
red (+5V) to pin 6
Test this out before shrinking the pins by plugging into the Tab along with a USB key. If it works, you should get the message above.
Once it works, put the connector shield, spring clip, and shroud on.
All said and done, this comes out to about half the price of the Samsung adapter, but at the expense of some elbow grease and potential unreliability. I expect clones will be showing up on eBay someday though, so if I've done anything useful here it's to entice our friends in China to start their assembly lines.
Clean it up and start selling them imo.
mbh87 said:
Clean it up and start selling them imo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better?
Taken before I have to ugly it up with a bit of hot glue. The connector housing is too shallow to fit the resistors and make a good strain relief with heat shrink. I also noticed that the retainer ring that holds the housing together pops right off when you unplug the connector. A little super glue needs to go there too.
Nice job dude specially since they are taking forever to release the damn thing
Lol. This is awesome goodjob. Might have to try this out
Well played
I'll give this a shot
i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out
time_shock said:
i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will pay you infinity for that, give you my firstborn, whatever you want. But seriously, what use is a "media dock" if you can't charge while I are passing hdmi thru.
Back on topic, nice job OP, that is my new weekend project
Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?
nemir said:
Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, won't work. With this you won't get the 5V power from the tablet, and you won't have the resistor on the ID pin to tell it to go into OTG mode. I suppose you could provide your own 5V power to the device, and hack the kernel to force it into OTG. But that's probably as much trouble as building a cable anyway.
This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?
ericlmccormick said:
This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.
If you create a cable that charges the Tab while using it in host mode, you could probably pull the power off the charging cable instead of from the accessory pin.
If doing that, might want a selector switch or diode to keep current from flowing into the accessory pin.
I ordered a few of the 30pin connectors yesterday and I am starting my designing now for my "docking station". I am trying to figure out if I will have 1 or 4 USBs on it.
pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Omg thankyou so much, I've been waiting for this. i was missing the two 10 ohm resistors!!!!!
Already cut up a USB and galaxy cable trying this..
will try this when i get home. im at work. let you know what i find
pokey9000 said:
Problem, Samsung?
...
Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?
joedoe said:
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't have a 20k resistor on hand, and 20k isn't a common value in smaller resistor kits. The most readily available values in the 10k range are usually 10k, 22k, and 47k.
pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.
pokey9000 said:
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does HDMI share any of the same pins as the USB? I ask because I am gonna piece together a hub and then add an HDMI cable to that, and then plug that into the media dock, and then it will be a true dock. Just need to get power for charging involved in that mix
can you try hooking up an usb microphone? I'd like to see if they will work and how well. I have a samson go mic that I wouldnt mind using as a recording tool.
Doesnt the orginal galaxy tab's hdmi dock work on the 10.1 i saw vidos of it working on the google io version should be easy to add a switch and usb to it
I have traced Nook Color connector PCB lines, - no big deal, but I think this can be useful to others:
1 USB +5V
2 USB D-
3 USB D+
4 USB +5V
5 USB D-
6 USB D+
7 JACK SENSE +5V
8 GND
9 +5V
10 RED LED
11 +5V
12 GND
13 GND(green LED control)
14 AUDIO L
15 AUDIO R
16 USB ID (NC)
17 GND
Pins 1-3 and 16-17 are connected to regular microUSB pins inside connector, other pins are connected to proprietary 12 pin B&N microUSB extension. USB pins 2-5 and 3-6 are the same - this is physically one USB port. Pin 7 is connected inside OEM USB cable to the +5V rail. Green LED in OEM USB cable is static powered (grounded to GND pin in Nook), red LED is controlled via charging controller. USB ID pin is not connected, may be it's possible to use this pin to automatic enable USB host mode from outside (needs additional research).
P.S.: use this information at your own risk, i'm not responsible for any fried nooks.
I have to say thank you! This opens up a number of doors for the dead Nook USB cables. Anyone interested in putting together a charging dock with speakers? I am!
My own crazy ideas go further - I will try to use Nook PCB (I have a broken one - display is dead and touchscreen is firmly glued to the screen and not detachable) with external LVDS TFT panel and keyboard/mouse as a nettop PC.
Thanks so much for this! I've lately been musing on the concept of a dock/frame which might contain things like:
light sensor for auto brightness control, gps, microphone, speakers, extra batteries, etc.
A few questions I have for you, if you would be so kind?
Are pin 14-15 audio inputs or outputs (assuming the latter) ? Line level, or paralleled with the 3.5 jack, or what?
Maybe pin 10 would be better labeled as "Red LED Control", since it turns a transistor on in the charging cable to light the Red LED?
And I'm confused about pin 13 - "green LED control" since green is "always on" (except for that moment when you first plug it in.... Does this relate to that? )
Thanks again. How did you go about this; dead unit?
Gleb Erty said:
I have traced Nook Color connector PCB lines, - no big deal, but I think this can be useful to others:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a chance to get the trace for NOOK HD too? Where you get the PCB scheme from - or did you opened the device?
tonestertm said:
Are pin 14-15 audio inputs or outputs (assuming the latter) ? Line level, or paralleled with the 3.5 jack, or what?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Old topic but would be great to know - anyone dig into this since the original OP? I'd go nuts if I could hack a spare connector and get line level audio outs to use in the car.
The wring inside my microUSB head was broken few weeks ago and is no longer working.
I cracked open the connector itself (on the led shell) and found two of the wires were detached. On the device side has 4 solder points that presumably where the 4 color wires (red, green, black and white) were supposed to attach to,
Anyone here know how each of the wires are supposed to go to which points?
TIA.
If I wanted to wire / solder something directly to attach/solder a microUSB port to charge with the exact same charger the nook color came with, but with a standard microusb cable -- which pcb pins should I be soldering in order to get the full charge power ( and not the current 500mA that goes over a standard microusb ? )
I don't mind if the port doesn't sit will in the case, I can have it hanging outside.. Just need a way to get rid of the dependency on replacing the 12pin microusb cable everytime it goes bad.
Progress and Failure | Hacky Attempt at DIY Plug Charger
Thank you @Gleb Erty for the research!!
Fortunately, I had a Nook Color, and instead of purchasing a B&N charger, opted for the road less traveled.
@dayssincethedoor's thread on the Nook Color USB cable dissection was pretty interesting. Judging by the PCB pictures, there didn't seem to be anything out of the ordinary besides some circuitry about when to turn on the charging LED.
After some research, I sourced the part on Digikey.
The Digikey part number is A103879-ND and the manufacturer part number is 2129033-1. For those inclined, the datasheet is weird, but understandable given the current limitations at the time (.5 A or maybe 1.5A for USB 2.0?)
That said, the part is crazy delicate. The pitch is too close for ease of soldering, and the pins themselves are delicate.
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https://ibb.co/m6hHWdj
I've annotated the datasheet for posterity, but this hybrid plug is quite interesting. The 17-pin receptacle is compatible with the micro USB (5-wire) and the hybrid 12-pin plug. So, the number of pins on the receptacle is the sum of the micro-USB and hybrid-USB pins. Rad.
Additionally, for posterity's sake, note that the pin number column on the datasheet denotes the receptacle pins not the hybrid plug pins. It makes sense because a 12-pin hybrid plug doesn't have 17-pins. (This caught me in a loop for a good few minutes. )
https://ibb.co/C0M2HWg
In the context of the 12-pin Hybrid Plug, my approach, thereafter, was the following:
Solder all the GND pins together to a black wire. ( GND pins: 5, 9, 12 ). [In hindsight, should have included GND pin 10, too.]
Solder all the 5V pins together to a red wire ( 5V pins: 8, 6, 4 ).
Test for short / continuity between wires.
Inject hot glue between plug contacts for structural stability.
Power plug with 5V .5A from a bench top power supply.
Cross my fingers on left hand.
Plug in makeshift charger connector into Nook Color.
The result: A Nook Color with a fried LCD display driver. The screen is black and will remain black. Glorious.
My mistake (probably) in the following images was that I didn't solder the LED control GND pin (pin #10 on the 12-pin plug). My reasoning for this was that since I didn't need the green LED for charge notification, I can leave that GND as is because I could check the battery status on the Nook Color itself.
Big Mistake.
Targeted Pins on Nook Color Connector
Sketchy Soldering That Passed Continuity Check
Anyways~~ That's it for me on this project! I hope this helps out some other soul working on B&N's "proprietary" tablet connectors.
[TL;DR] Did not solder all GND pins and consequently damaged the LCD display driver such that the Nook is now unusable.
P.S. Sorry if the images are broken. No idea why...
Dear all,
Just wanted to avoid spending some cash on Galaxy tab S5e stand. So short research on net show some pinouts of pogo connectors, and seems that Galaxy tab S5e uses USB pins .
So took multimeter, and found that first pin (counting from USB socket side) is GND.
Number 4 is 5V . Middle two I guessed are USB D+ and D-. But whatever combination (#2D+ or opposite D-) no success. Tablet is charging but in slow charging mode (seems to be 0,5A) . That is not so bad for me , as night is long enough to charge full easily. But anyway I would like to know what middle two pins can do. I saw on net some suggestions to use resistors, so tablet would try to charge at 2A , but none diagram works. To clarify , I have official charger and via USB cable , it charges fast.
So finally question... Do you know how to make USB connection via pogo connectors (so tablet could recognize charger, and maybe use for other USB devices)?
Or what are two middle pins for?
Here photo of my Poor's man dock. During photo there was no middle pins connected, but believe me , tried many options.
Edit, as I am new user , I can not paste links, but after 10 posts , I will update.
Edit 2 as I can not paste links, but if someone interested in photo , add http by yourself...
m.imgur.com/a/rPTQCYA
After one month of testing , I cat tell you that it is not necessary to figure out middle pins.
The device charges slowly (somewhere was written that it is limited to 0,5Ampere), but it is ok for me as during night it will be charged full anyway.
Device also activates nicely "daily board"with clock and looks nice.
I recommend this DIY stand. Made of old ethernet socket for pins, and USB printer cable.
Below link to photo how it looks like. I plan to paint it.... someday
m.imgur.com/a/jCGKCZX
Shame about the slow charging limited to 500mA. I've been looking at various tablets to potentially replace my 2019 Galaxy Tab A 10.1 in the car dash. Currently (no joke intended) having a fight with things to do with hub passthrough charging and the tablet taking over the role of power supplier when the car powers down....having pogo pins as an alternate charging method might present something useful as a fix, but 500mA doesn't exceed battery usage when powered up. Have you asked anybody that owns one of the docks to crack it open and see what's inside? Back when I had a Nexus 7, the four pogo pins on the dock corresponded to power and audio out via a 3.5mm jack in the dock.
One thing to keep in mind here that Samsung supports - and requires - QC3.0 for fast charge. So, you would need a source with that standard and if you want to verify (altghough the remaining time would immediately tell you) a suitable in line power trap.