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Cable of my earphone (XDA-I) has been cut from its connector (plug to XDA-I).
I will try to weld it, but I dont know where each of the cables (blue, red, white and copper) has to be welded on the connector (with 4 pins).
Can someone please post a suggestion?
http://xda-developers.com/connectors/
Maybe this will helpful.
Yooooo thanks
Sallala said:
http://xda-developers.com/connectors/
Maybe this will helpful.
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Click to collapse
Ok, so i have the "power button failure" problem. No more warranty, and the local gsm repair shop can repair it, but doesnt know where the connections go, to make a bypass.
anyone has this manual, or anything that could help me?
thank you
You can't repair it.it needs a new flex cable.
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk
cobrax2 said:
Ok, so i have the "power button failure" problem. No more warranty, and the local gsm repair shop can repair it, but doesnt know where the connections go, to make a bypass.
anyone has this manual, or anything that could help me?
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this problem recently. Out of warranty. Sent to HTC repair center and got quoted for about $50 USD (given that I'm in Singapore, there is a physical HTC service center that I can go to).
If you want to fix it yourself, you can buy the board from ebay, this is the cheapest of them all, with tools included.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290522246328&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
You can follow some disassembling guide from ifixit or this youtube series (very detailed, but to repair the cracked screen instead) to replace the flex cable and board. Should not take more than 1 hour. I planned to do it if the quote is higher than $80, but it's not.
Let me know how it goes if you decide to fix it yourself. Take a few pictures as you go along would be great too.
Easy way to start nexus one with out power button:
1)Plug in phone through USB or wall charger.
2) take battery out
3) put battery back in real fast
Phone should boot on.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App
thank you guys for replying, i knew i can replace the board, bu i wanted to see if i can "fix" the flex cable. i gues there are only 2 wires inside it and i need to see where those go. not to fix it myself, but the guys at the shop. i think they can use a "strap", which is a loose wire connecting the 2 points. i dont really plan on using that button very much, i got used to the trackball wake, but, i want it to work, just in case
cobrax2 said:
thank you guys for replying, i knew i can replace the board, bu i wanted to see if i can "fix" the flex cable. i gues there are only 2 wires inside it and i need to see where those go. not to fix it myself, but the guys at the shop. i think they can use a "strap", which is a loose wire connecting the 2 points. i dont really plan on using that button very much, i got used to the trackball wake, but, i want it to work, just in case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've taken my 2 nexus apart, and I can tell you that there is no easy fix.
ok, update
i have fixed it in the gsm repair shop. well, they did
they waited to come in another faulty nexus to check which wires were faulty, compared them, and they put in a new external wire replacing the old one on the circuit board. everything works now. it costed me around 30 usd. anyway, i intend on using trackball wake though in the future, only if necessary the power button
Hi ,
Yes you can repair this problem. Besides the option of buying a new flex cable for 50-80 USD, I found in this very same forum a thread where somebody posted a picture and indications about how to repair the flex that contains the power button.
If you disassemble your N1 and remove the large flex that carries the power switch you will notice that i has two large connectors on the bottom end.
One of these has 44 pins (two rows of 22 pins). In the top row of this connector, counting from the right the pin number 10 is the one that turns the nexus one ON/OFF
The switch does this only by connecting it mmomentarily to ground.
TO FIX IT:
All you need is a fine end soldering iron, a good lens, a T5 screw driver, soldering wire and adhesive tape. And most importantly 20 cm of very thin magnet wire (enamelled copper wire of about 30 to 50 micrometers in diameter (it is thicker than hair do not worry).
Then solder an end of the wire to the pin #10 as counted in the way i described. route and tape the wire along the flex until you get to the switch.
the switch has 4 pins one pair is ground, the others go to pin #10 in the 44 pin connector. The ones that are gong to the pin #10 are actually on the side of the switch that has a golden "[" bracket. Solder the end of the wire that comes from pin #10 to any of these two pins of the switch. This completes one part of the process. (the most difficult).
The back of the board that holds the switch has a large ground plane. Solder a second piece of wire to this golden pad. From there, stretch about 30 mm of wire towards the upper corner of the logic board, and solder the end of it to the round golden pad where a screw goes. This is a ground point.
Reassemble the phone. Your power switch should now work again.
I hope this helps.
Jose
This may seem obvious to the tech savvy but not to all.
I bought a new flex cable/board on ebay. It was supposed to be new but it is obviously used. I have my doubts that it works. I am trying to test it before installing. If I press the power button, pin 10 (as described) should be electrically connected to ground, right? This is not the case with the board I have. Is the connection between pin 10 and the switch a direct trace on the ribbon cable or is something else involved? is there a diode or anything else in this circuitry? Does the battery holder come into play?
Other information. My phone does power on with the charger/remove/replace battery trick. All other buttons work.
I'll make sure to get some photos up soon of the whole operation.
Anyway I managed to get a Dev Cable built to successfully re-flash firmware to the Atrix. I actually bricked my phone three times and instantly was able to re-flash to 1.8.3 and higher.
So first off I found a previous post on another form about making a dev cable and noticed all you need to do is run a wire from the 1 pin (which is 5V) to the 4 pin (which has nothing attached to it).
Micro USB pin diagram here:
http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx
It seemed simple enough, but in reality it is a slight pain to get inside the injected plastic to get to the pins. Basically what I ended up doing (and I'll get pictures up here soon) is cut into the USB cable about 2 inches behind the micro USB plug to make the red wire (5V) accessible. Next I cut off the plastic shielding around the micro USB and slowly pried away the metal clips. The important part here is to not break off the tip of the USB cable that is used to secure the cable to the phone.
Now the hard part… if the plastic is clear then your work is cut out for you and you can just melt the plastic to the 4 pin connector and solder. If it’s not, then you have to do some careful exploring, the best option I have found is to melt the plastic to find the 4 pin. Cutting away the plastic also helps but caution you might cut into the wrong area and sever a wire (I did this twice already). Next step is to clean and solder a wire to the 4 pin connector; I used the wire from a butchered USB cable from this project, make sure the wire is long enough to allow for errors.
Finally run the wire back to the first cut in the USB cable and solder or use heat shrink tubing to bind the Red Wire (5V) to the jumper wire that runs from the 4 pin connector on the micro usb.
With a little luck it should work!
My soldering is not that great and one out of the two cables I made worked.
If you have any questions, ask!
Climber Ty said:
I'll make sure to get some photos up soon of the whole operation.
Anyway I managed to get a Dev Cable built to successfully re-flash firmware to the Atrix. I actually bricked my phone three times and instantly was able to re-flash to 1.8.3 and higher.
So first off I found a previous post on another form about making a dev cable and noticed all you need to do is run a wire from the 1 pin (which is 5V) to the 4 pin (which has nothing attached to it).
Micro USB pin diagram here:
http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx
It seemed simple enough, but in reality it is a slight pain to get inside the injected plastic to get to the pins. Basically what I ended up doing (and I'll get pictures up here soon) is cut into the USB cable about 2 inches behind the micro USB plug to make the red wire (5V) accessible. Next I cut off the plastic shielding around the micro USB and slowly pried away the metal clips. The important part here is to not break off the tip of the USB cable that is used to secure the cable to the phone.
Now the hard part… if the plastic is clear then your work is cut out for you and you can just melt the plastic to the 4 pin connector and solder. If it’s not, then you have to do some careful exploring, the best option I have found is to melt the plastic to find the 4 pin. Cutting away the plastic also helps but caution you might cut into the wrong area and sever a wire (I did this twice already). Next step is to clean and solder a wire to the 4 pin connector; I used the wire from a butchered USB cable from this project, make sure the wire is long enough to allow for errors.
Finally run the wire back to the first cut in the USB cable and solder or use heat shrink tubing to bind the Red Wire (5V) to the jumper wire that runs from the 4 pin connector on the micro usb.
With a little luck it should work!
My soldering is not that great and one out of the two cables I made worked.
If you have any questions, ask!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Buying one would be the perfect from you or ebay. I can't believe you bricked your phone that many times.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
unforgivenmercy said:
Buying one would be the perfect from you or ebay. I can't believe you bricked your phone that many times.
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Click to collapse
All in the name of science hehe!
@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.
Sounds great! appreciate your effort.
Nikropht said:
@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.
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Click to collapse
Thanks man. That would be much appreciated. Before I do send my info do you reside in the continental US?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Is this not the same thing people were doing months ago to get USB host support? I made your same "dev" cable using an OTG cable and doing the soldering you did to the pins on your cable instead to the inside of a cheap USB hub. This made wire stripping and melting altogether unnecessary.
omni_angel7 said:
Is this not the same thing people were doing months ago to get USB host support? I made your same "dev" cable using an OTG cable and doing the soldering you did to the pins on your cable instead to the inside of a cheap USB hub. This made wire stripping and melting altogether unnecessary.
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Click to collapse
Sure I don't see how it couldn't be used like that. I just did this because I had a few extra micro USB cables laying around and one bricked phone. Mostly I wanted to see if this would work... I did notice just now (at the time I just wanted to show the diagram) that the link I posted to the USB diagram actually just has the micro USB connector as a part. Which in all reality is somewhat easier since all you need is the 4 wires from a cut USB cable and a jumper wire from pin 1 to pin 4 and then shrink tube from there.
But I worked with what I had at the time and it functions.
See this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=997187
I don't think any hardbricking has been saved here...
What you had was soft bricking.
omni_angel7 said:
See this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=997187
I don't think any hardbricking has been saved here...
What you had was soft bricking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't mention hard bricking, just bricking in general. I have another phone that has the
Code:
0x1000
Entering NVFlash recovery mode
Battery is too low to flash
that shows for three seconds and then the screen goes blank. From what I understand that is more of a hardbrick.
I'll try it on that and see if I have success.
cool work mahn!!
---------- Post added at 02:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:55 PM ----------
unforgivenmercy said:
Thanks man. That would be much appreciated. Before I do send my info do you reside in the continental US?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep we are in Texas!
Nikropht said:
@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This! Can it force my phone into RSD or Fastboot mode when it's hardbricked?
Climber Ty said:
I didn't mention hard bricking, just bricking in general. I have another phone that has the
Code:
0x1000
Entering NVFlash recovery mode
Battery is too low to flash
that shows for three seconds and then the screen goes blank. From what I understand that is more of a hardbrick.
I'll try it on that and see if I have success.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's a soft brick, but the battery is too low to flash so your gonna need a charged battery...
Alaq said:
This! Can it force my phone into RSD or Fastboot mode when it's hardbricked?
I think that's a soft brick, but the battery is too low to flash so your gonna need a charged battery...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
x0001 failed to boot is a HARD brick
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
You have the numbers reversed anything that says failed to boot x1000 is a hard brick and apparently motorola doesn't fix them they usually give a refurbished phone.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
unforgivenmercy said:
You have the numbers reversed anything that says failed to boot x1000 is a hard brick and apparently motorola doesn't fix them they usually give a refurbished phone.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree the I pulled out the phone that had a backwards firmware flash to 1.8.3 (the failed to boot 0x1000 one) and so far no luck on being able to get the NVFlash to stay up longer than a few seconds. I'll look into a few more options maybe I'll find out how to do this JTAG fix rumor that I see floating around on these forums. I know it's chasing ghosts through concrete walls, but I have the time/hardware to do it.
Do keep the updates coming if it works for you.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
unforgivenmercy said:
Do keep the updates coming if it works for you.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, will do.
Climber Ty said:
Thanks, will do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem man.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
KillerbawX said:
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could probably buy two new Raiders for $250! Replacement might be the best bet, as you can likely find one on Kijiji for $100 or so. If you have a local cell repair joint, give them a call, and see if they offer the replacement. It might be tricky since the USB on the Raider (as other HTC phones) is actually a special type of HDMI jack that also has USB (known as MHL).
If you're adventurous, you might track down a broken Raider and attempt a part swap yourself. I've not seen the inside of the unit, so I can't say how easy or hard that would be at any skill level...
Hope you get it fixed up!
The part is on eBay you can always try to do it yourself should be a few small solder points
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using xda premium
KillerbawX said:
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A friend needed this. We ordered one off ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-USB-Pow...328529?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c422a1d1 ) and although it required opening the phone up and voiding the warranty, it required no soldering. He doesn't open electronics up very often, and said it wasn't very hard to do.
i was babbling abt this in a thread in the dev forum, thot i'd best do it also here in the proper forum for it:
i changed the USB port in my Raider, was very simple. Six little screws, two different lengths so keep track of them. One screw also holds down the teeny cover under which is where the tiny connector resides that connects the port to the fone circuit board. Once the fone is back together that's where you make the final connection between port and fone.
Slip off the battery cover, undo the six screws, take off that tiny little cover. Carefully work off the entire back housing. There's no front housing, just the screen glass and the fone circuitry bundled together.
Micro-USB port and ribbon connector is fastened to the housing with two more of those little screws. Change out the port with the new one. New part may not be an exact duplicate of the old part: that's ok. Reassemble the fone. Under that hole left by the tiny cover, press home the miniscule plug that connects up the port to the fone.
Put back the tiny cover, fasten back all the screws, and you're done. Port cost me $9 USD plus shipping on ebay.
lowfatmilk said:
i was babbling abt this in a thread in the dev forum, thot i'd best do it also here in the proper forum for it:
i changed the USB port in my Raider, was very simple. Six little screws, two different lengths so keep track of them. One screw also holds down the teeny cover under which is where the tiny connector resides that connects the port to the fone circuit board. Once the fone is back together that's where you make the final connection between port and fone.
Slip off the battery cover, undo the six screws, take off that tiny little cover. Carefully work off the entire back housing. There's no front housing, just the screen glass and the fone circuitry bundled together.
Micro-USB port and ribbon connector is fastened to the housing with two more of those little screws. Change out the port with the new one. New part may not be an exact duplicate of the old part: that's ok. Reassemble the fone. Under that hole left by the tiny cover, press home the miniscule plug that connects up the port to the fone.
Put back the tiny cover, fasten back all the screws, and you're done. Port cost me $9 USD plus shipping on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, dude, I know this thread is a little old, but can you PM me the link to where you bought your USB port? I think I need to replace my port (issues connecting to PC and charging requires wire wiggling), but I've read about certain ports not working with data transfer and only charging, and I don't want to make that kind of mistake.
projectisaac said:
Hey, dude, I know this thread is a little old, but can you PM me the link to where you bought your USB port? I think I need to replace my port (issues connecting to PC and charging requires wire wiggling), but I've read about certain ports not working with data transfer and only charging, and I don't want to make that kind of mistake.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this? Says OEM so I imagine you wont lose functionality.
http://www.globaldirectparts.com/product-p/htc747235-qs.htm
Thank you! And only $8 too
Sent from my Vivid 4G using xda app-developers app
I was looking for a solution to this problem and after opening the nook I found out that on the socket one of the contacts is pushed towards inside - I've strighten it and tried to insert the cable but the cable pushed the contact again. So I glued it with some epoxy glue and currently I'm waiting until it cures.
Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk
It turns out that it wasn't the main problem - the nook now is working on power from the charger but it isn't charging the battery. My next try is to solder on a cheap lion charging board from china inside. I couldn't find any 5v test point but there is space for a capacitor near the connector and on the battery connector there are batt+ and batt- test points. This should be enough for the charger.
edit:
Its working!!
i've used a cheap lion charging module from china for 1$. I've cut out the microusb connector, wrapped it in duct tape and fitted it inside the nook.
It's slower than the original charger - only 1A but its working
Hi dkuku,
Thanks for the post.
Could you tell me where the orange USB wire goes?
TIA
andtron said:
Hi dkuku,
Thanks for the post.
Could you tell me where the orange USB wire goes?
TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the attached picture - its quite easy to solder