I have two TVs, both with HDMI 1.4. I have read conflicting reports of power over HDMI with HDMI 1.4 being possible. Can anyone confirm this works, because I can't get it to?
doug684 said:
I have two TVs, both with HDMI 1.4. I have read conflicting reports of power over HDMI with HDMI 1.4 being possible. Can anyone confirm this works, because I can't get it to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my Vizio M551D which as 1.4a ports does not support power over hdmi.
As far as I know the only way to support power over HDMI is via like MHL, which the chromecast doesn't support.
I'm pretty sure any claim that said they were able to just power it via the hdmi port was BS
The Hdmi port does supply 50ma at 5vdc over pin 18. But from what I have seen on the chromecast pin 18 is not used or dead a small jumper wire going from this pin to a positive supply trace could in fact power the chromecast over hdmi as long as more then 50ma could be used. So this does not seem to be an option.
HDMI vs. MHL Power supply
Yes, HDMI has inherited some power supply requirements from DDC. It's 0,250W (5V * 50mA). This is unfortunately going in the wrong direction: From e.g. stick (if pin 18 is connected anyway, it's apparently not...) through HDMI to TV. This energy should be provided to power the internal EPROM of the TV. This intended for peripherals to read info about the HDMI-sink of the TV even when the TV is deeply sleeping. The spec even allows this 50mA to be reduced to 1mA when a session is initialized. Hence this is unuseable.
MHL has revered the power supply direction. This is now from TV to the Phone. This is inteded to power the phone. Unfotunately most TV sets at home don't have any or a proper MHL implementation available.
Hence a mass produced stick can't rely on that, and an additional USB power cable is mandatory.
Does this clarify the HDMI MHL power confusion a little?
Bernd Steinke, xBounds Architect
Best topicson XDA! Fortunately with USB C HDMI will be outdated and replaced. Surprisingly I have not seen any TVs with USB C at this point.
Related
I'm hacking a portable USB keyboard (from HP iPaq) to work on my note and planning on including USB hub, battery power pack, USB port for flash drive.
I'm also planning on adding HDMI out. I'll either include a switch to go between USB (keyboard etc) and video only or if I can have everything then this will become my "turn Note into a computer" all in one solution when plugged into HDMI monitor/television.
All the pins are there. But I don't know if MHL and USB can be used at the same time. Anyone know or do I have to try it and see what happens?
Blowing up my Note USB chip would not make my day! LOL
PurpleMelbourne said:
All the pins are there. But I don't know if MHL and USB can be used at the same time. Anyone know or do I have to try it and see what happens?
Blowing up my Note USB chip would not make my day! LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to rain on your ideas for the second time but not possible. Even if the logic were there to somehow implement both modes, there just is not enough bandwidth on those wires. You only have two twisted pairs and 1080P needs almost all that bandwidth to push enough ones and zeros to fill the screen at 25-30fps.
Your best bet for satisfying that fantasy is bluetooth keyboard and mouse. Think I saw a youtube video yesterday of a guy playing a game through MHL out while controlling through a bluetooth keyboard.
They are mutually exclusive connections at the hardware level, so no software mod can make this possible.
Bluetooth keyboard and mouse are great - check out my youtube channel "AndroidNZ" for a demo on MHL and various uses.
I was already impressed a while back by your video showing MHL video and so I went and bought a connector of my own on ebay
My main focus is to make a little do it all dock for sitting having lunch in a cafe. All built into a wired HP iPaq keyboard. I currently have a Dell Axim bluetooth keyboard and Logitech bluetooth mouse, but they aren't as smooth as I'd like. But the mouse is probably only useful when using a big screen.
So hardware hacking time!
But even if I can't do both, it will be nice to have my phone sitting next to the television with only a short HDMI lead and the phone doesn't flop around because of the stiffness of said HDMI cable as it does currently with my existing octopus setup of leads.
So it will have two modes.
Video mode where the keyboard only acts as a stand, battery pack and video port.
Cafe mode where I have keyboard with stand, USB flash drive, battery pack and USB.
All in a 15cm x 10cm x 2.5cm tidy expanding package :-D
Maybe when the Note 2 comes out with USB 3 we might be able to have both video and USB
oops, duplicate
MHL + OTG Multimedia dock is now available!
Heres the answer to your mhl + otg problem guys but a bit costly!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Sa...axy-Note-2-N7100-EDD-S20EWEGSTD-/230889526839
who can read is in advantage
this dock station is for the note II and not for the note I.
The pinout is different.
but 1 solution could be plugging in otg then usb hub then the micro usb female to usb A then the Mhl adaptor and the other connector of the hub with the mouse and the keyboard
http://de.focalprice.com/CA0352B/USB_A_Male_to_Micro_USB_Female_Adapter_Black.html
but finally i think it won´t work because there is not enoug voltage and power to get all devices so u need an external power supplier for the hub or an battery connect with the hub. try it out and tell us of your experience
)
alz_uk said:
Heres the answer to your mhl + otg problem guys but a bit costly!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Sa...axy-Note-2-N7100-EDD-S20EWEGSTD-/230889526839
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there MHL to VGA adapters available that are know to work with the 4x?
Or is MHL standardized enough that i can pick any MHL to VGA without any worrying about working?
I know HDMI is usually better but my HMD (tac eye) takes only VGA or SVideo (though SVideo quality really suxx, its only on for NV not for data).
Also I see some MHL to VGA adapters have a secondary USB port, can this be used only as client or could I somehow connect a pointing device to my phone?
If I were you i would take MHL to HDMI cable and then HDMI to VGA. Reason is simple. Sometime you may want to connect your phone to new TV so you will need HDMI as it is standard port.
Secondary USB port is microUSB and it is used to charge phone while conected to TV (at least thats how it works with MHL to HDMI cable).
Stevic Milos said:
If I were you i would take MHL to HDMI cable and then HDMI to VGA. Reason is simple. Sometime you may want to connect your phone to new TV so you will need HDMI as it is standard port.
Secondary USB port is microUSB and it is used to charge phone while conected to TV (at least thats how it works with MHL to HDMI cable).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, for me this would than look like: MHL-HDMI adapter connected to a HDMI-VGA adapter connected to VGA-"Proprietary HMD Port" thats in used space and weight more for the adapters than for the phone and HMD. As i intent to wear this on my body thats rather not cool. Also the HDMI-VGA adapter will want some juice what will be an additional drain on my batteries.
The "VGA-"Proprietary HMD Port" is passive, so if I like the setup I will probably cut the MHL-VGA adapter open and attache the signal lanes directly to a fitting plug for my HMD.
Also I don't own a TV just a 30" WQXGA Dell Monitor with a Duallink DVI port its one of the old models that had only Duallink DVI, no scaling no DVI no VGA and no other ports.
An other issue would be how to control the phone when it in my pocket, how can I attache some pointing device and would this even work with android OS?
Or would I have to wait for an unlocked bootloader and this cool ubuntu on phone projects that provide a full ubuntu desktop?
PS: is the micro usb port on the adapter only used for charging or is there still a USB signal on it?
David
If i got you right, you want to control phone, connected to PC monitor, over HDM goggles?
You can try something like this https://code.google.com/p/androidscreencast/
It is a software that enables remote control of your phone over WiFi, so if your goggles work on PC it should work here to. It does the same job as the cable connection (MHL to VGA)
As for the MHL to VGA adapter you have 4 connectors:
1) male microUSB (one you connect to your phone)
2) female microUSB (charger or power supply, so it doesn't use phone battery)
3) female VGA (for monitor)
4) 3,5 audio jack for sound
Stevic Milos said:
If i got you right, you want to control phone, connected to PC monitor, over HDM goggles?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not exactly I don't want to use a PC at all. I want to connect the HMD (Vuzix-Tac-Eye-LT-Monocular) directly to the phone and use some pointing device or mini keyboard to control the phone.
I have the adapter and a problem,
the phone is only giving out its native screen resolution, my HMD cant handle.
How can I change the resolution so SVGA ?
Didn't know we had our own thread now.
Anyways so I've been trying to hook my active up to my monitor -- an ASUS VX238H -- and I finally got the correct MHL to HDMI adapter, but I still can't get it to work and I've tried three different HDMI cables. With this Sypder C Class cable and this Belkin cable I have the phone would detect being plugged up to the HDMI, but the monitor wouldn't recognize it, and with this off brand cable when I plug it in my monitor goes black (and it has two HDMI inputs with my computer plugged into HDMI1 and the phone plugged into HDMI2). Is there a specific cable I need or perhaps cables without a specific feature (such as Ethernet)?
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
dibeachdude said:
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I read that was only needed for wireless connections and that HDMI connections didn't need that. Guess I'll give it a shot after work and see if that is the issue, but still I don't understand why the one cable would cause my monitor to go black despite me not having selected the HDMI2 input...
I have a cable left over from my Motorola Atrix 4G. I will give it a try tonight to see if I get any better results.
dibeachdude said:
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I tried enabling Screen Mirroring but it told me to disconnect the HDMI cable first. Guess I'll just have to wait till I get paid again and get a different HDMI cable to try with (one without Ethernet) and see if I have better results.
I was reading an article from pcmag about screen mirroring (Google "How to Connect Your Samsung Galaxy S 4 to Your TV"). It said something about using a specific MHL to HDMI connector and then connecting a separate HDMI cable and a power cable. I'm not sure why you would need all of the extra cables, especially the power cable. I would think that the digital audio and video signals would be low enough power that it would use less power than the backlight. Maybe there is something specific about the pinout of the Samsung USB that requires that particular cable. If I get a chance to try my other cable tonight, I will post the results. Good luck.
dibeachdude said:
I was reading an article from pcmag about screen mirroring (Google "How to Connect Your Samsung Galaxy S 4 to Your TV"). It said something about using a specific MHL to HDMI connector and then connecting a separate HDMI cable and a power cable. I'm not sure why you would need all of the extra cables, especially the power cable. I would think that the digital audio and video signals would be low enough power that it would use less power than the backlight. Maybe there is something specific about the pinout of the Samsung USB that requires that particular cable. If I get a chance to try my other cable tonight, I will post the results. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had posted in the S4 QA section there are two different types of MHL-HDMI adapters.
A 5-pin variation for the older generation of phones like the S2 and the Infuse.
A 11-pin variation for the newer generation of phones like the S3 and S4.
The adapter does need some power to power it since it is an electronic device but not much. The rest of the power that's not used by the adapter is used to charge the phone.
I initially bought a 5-pin adapter because I didn't research enough before hand (it was a bit of an impulse buy) and so I didn't know there were two different types. I then bought an official Samsung MHL-HDMI 11-pin adpater which is what I've been using now.
I really think the issue is with the cables I'm trying to use so when I do get paid again I'm going to buy a HDMI cable with just the base A/V transfer and see if that works.
Please ignore what I said altogether. I assumed that I had a cable from my previous phone that would work for HDMI, but the cable that I have isn't even a USB connector. It has a completely different plug on it. I never used it on my last phone, and I didn't even remember the phone having two different plugs. Now, I am wanting to get the proper cable and try it. I have always thought that it would be cool to run XBMC on my phone.
Found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-MHL-To-HDTV-Smart-Adapter-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S-III-EPL-3FHUBEGSTA-/261233789076?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3cd2bf4894
I will post my results when it comes in.
dibeachdude said:
Please ignore what I said altogether. I assumed that I had a cable from my previous phone that would work for HDMI, but the cable that I have isn't even a USB connector. The one that I have is an entirely different interface. I never used it on my last phone, and I didn't even remember the phone having two different plugs. Now, I am wanting to the proper cable and try it. I have always that the it would be cool to run XBMC on my phone.
Found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-MHL-To-HDTV-Smart-Adapter-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S-III-EPL-3FHUBEGSTA-/261233789076?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3cd2bf4894
I will post my results when it comes in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the one I have now.
My cable came in today, and it works perfectly. It is the original Samsung (EPL-3FHUBEGSTA) MHL to HDMI cable. I noticed that they raised the price on ebay by $5.00. They can still be found for around $11 or $12 though. All I did was plug mine in to the phone, the power cable, and HDMI, and then, I selected "Screen Mirroring" in settings. The problem may be with you monitor. I have seen some monitors that do not connect with certain HDMI devices. I think it has something to do with supporting 1080i vs 1080p. I've never been able to test the theory, but at work we have a large plasma TV that very few devices (almost none) will connect to. I have found a few other, usually smaller, monitors that seem to do the same thing. Good luck.
dibeachdude said:
My cable came in today, and it works perfectly. It is the original Samsung (EPL-3FHUBEGSTA) MHL to HDMI cable. I noticed that they raised the price on ebay by $5.00. They can still be found for around $11 or $12 though. All I did was plug mine in to the phone, the power cable, and HDMI, and then, I selected "Screen Mirroring" in settings. The problem may be with you monitor. I have seen some monitors that do not connect with certain HDMI devices. I think it has something to do with supporting 1080i vs 1080p. I've never been able to test the theory, but at work we have a large plasma TV that very few devices (almost none) will connect to. I have found a few other, usually smaller, monitors that seem to do the same thing. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using a HDMI cable with Ethernet or just an A/V HDMI cable? All the HDMI cables I have have Ethernet except maybe my 360 HDMI cable. I'm going to order this other cable online and try with that and if it doesn't work then I'm just going to assume my monitor is like what you said. Just a fyi it's supposed to support 1080p.
Ok just thought I'd provide an update. I got the Belkin A/V (no Ethernet) cable in today and it too didn't work so I'm just going to chalk it up to my monitor not supporting the MHL signal. I suppose I shouldn't be too surprised since it is a computer monitor after all.
I don't know whether any of you know, but UGreen have just bought out an Ethernet adaptor for the original and new Chromecasts, and what a difference it makes! Despite not being too far from my WiFi router, I was really having stuttering problems with my original Chromecast in my garden office; it really shouldn't have 'cos the signal was good, but I think I was getting interference from the laser cutter and 3D printer running at the same time. Electrical noise really doesn't help with streaming via WiFi.
Anyway, I've been looking for a way to improve it for a while, until I came across this new cable. You plug in the microUSB to the Chromecast as usual, and the other end to the power, and the third 'end' (!) has an ethernet port! Worked first time! I was expecting to have to reset the device so that it would use ethernet in preference, but nope, it defaulted to the Ethernet connection. Now streaming is flawless!
Thoroughly recommend this if you've got the same problem.
Google USB Ethernet adapter for the Chromecast
GeekyTim said:
I don't know whether any of you know, but UGreen have just bought out an Ethernet adaptor for the original and new Chromecasts, and what a difference it makes!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not use the original Google USB Ethernet adapter for the Chromecast (for $15, cable length: 2 meters, power supply inlcuded!)?
Which UGreen adapter do you use? Please post a link.
Edit: UGREEN Ethernet Adapter for Chromecast with Micro USB to RJ 45 Ethernet Adater for Chromecast with Power Supply (for $14.99, cable length: 1 meter, power supply NOT inlcuded!)
SGH-i200 said:
(for $14.99, cable length: 1 meter, power supply NOT inlcuded!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power supply not included, but my guess is that you can power it up via the TV's usb port? Which actually is a selling point, if that works. I power my Chromecast with a usb connected to the TV, and feel that it's a bit "meh" having to plug it in to an actual power socket, when I have a perfectly good (less clunky) alternative.
Chromcast Ultra needs more power than the USB port on the TV can supply!
KaffeMyers said:
Power supply not included, but my guess is that you can power it up via the TV's usb port? Which actually is a selling point, if that works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does it work? The Chromcast Ultra needs more power than the USB port of the Samsung LE32C679 TV can supply! https://www.amazon.de/review/R2XUTU...etail-glance&nodeID=340843031&store=computers
Chromecast with ethernet adapter powered by TV
KaffeMyers said:
I power my Chromecast with a usb connected to the TV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the Chromecast is not powered by the TV, it will not switch off with the TV!
This thing is pretty new, but has anyone been able to make it work with USB OTG ethernet adapters and hubs? Whenever I try the ones I have I end up on the error screen where it tells you to plug it into the wall instead of a TV USB port. I realize the ethernet adapter is available for pre-order, but that's $20 I would rather not spend when I have a few USB ethernet adapters laying around. Besides, it won't have USB ports.
The reviews I have seen say you need a high-wattage adapter. The packaged one is not strong enough to use through a hub.
Note10.1Dude said:
The reviews I have seen say you need a high-wattage adapter. The packaged one is not strong enough to use through a hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw those and it doesn't make much sense to me. This has to be an artificial limitation by Google to force people to use a wall wart instead of a TV USB port to avoid customer service headaches. I highly doubt this thing needs that much power to operate. I tried an old OnePlus Dash Charger (5V 4A output) with a simple powered OTG dongle and still got nothing.
Cheesethief said:
I saw those and it doesn't make much sense to me. This has to be an artificial limitation by Google to force people to use a wall wart instead of a TV USB port to avoid customer service headaches. I highly doubt this thing needs that much power to operate. I tried an old OnePlus Dash Charger (5V 4A output) with a simple powered OTG dongle and still got nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its looking for a power supply capable of delivering 1.5A of current.
The CPU in the thing is a QUAD-core Cortex-A55. Specifically, Amlogic S905X3. That's a pretty substantial CPU, so I don't think that 1.5A is that much of overkill. If you look at other tv boxes with the same CPU, you'll also see that they typically include 2A power supplies. In order to ensure that the power supply is capable of this, they are enforcing USB-PD profile 1 compliance.
Now USB-PD requires digital communication between the device and the power supply. If your "OnePlus Dash Charger" is not compliant with USB-PD, or if your "simple powered OTG dongle" blocks the communications, then the TV dongle will assume that you have it plugged into a standard 500 mA power adapter and complain to you about it being insufficient.
Oh, and the SoC itself has a TDP of 5W (1A at 5V). Add a few more parts like RAM and UFS and you can easily draw more than that, plus, you always want your power supply to have some room to spare -- not run it at its limits. That clearly puts you into 1.5A *MINIMUM* territory.
https://gadgetversus.com/processor/amlogic-s905x3-specs/
---------- Post added at 02:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------
Note10.1Dude said:
The reviews I have seen say you need a high-wattage adapter. The packaged one is not strong enough to use through a hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In order to prevent yourself from sounding like a doofus, a "watt" is a unit of POWER. So when you are talking about the adapter, use the words "high-POWER". "wattage" is very awkward.
96carboard said:
Its looking for a power supply capable of delivering 1.5A of current.
The CPU in the thing is a QUAD-core Cortex-A55. Specifically, Amlogic S905X3. That's a pretty substantial CPU, so I don't think that 1.5A is that much of overkill. If you look at other tv boxes with the same CPU, you'll also see that they typically include 2A power supplies. In order to ensure that the power supply is capable of this, they are enforcing USB-PD profile 1 compliance.
Now USB-PD requires digital communication between the device and the power supply. If your "OnePlus Dash Charger" is not compliant with USB-PD, or if your "simple powered OTG dongle" blocks the communications, then the TV dongle will assume that you have it plugged into a standard 500 mA power adapter and complain to you about it being insufficient.
Oh, and the SoC itself has a TDP of 5W (1A at 5V). Add a few more parts like RAM and UFS and you can easily draw more than that, plus, you always want your power supply to have some room to spare -- not run it at its limits. That clearly puts you into 1.5A *MINIMUM* territory.
https://gadgetversus.com/processor/amlogic-s905x3-specs/
---------- Post added at 02:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------
In order to prevent yourself from sounding like a doofus, a "watt" is a unit of POWER. So when you are talking about the adapter, use the words "high-POWER". "wattage" is very awkward.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All well and good maybe, but PD Profile 1 basically states that the wall wart provided is not up to spec.
BUT, that's actually a good thing because this is not a PD device, period. I can prove that very simply now. I am using a 5v 3a barrel jack wall wart to power it via a hub.
Specifically this hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QN3YYXM/
And specifically this powersupply:
https://pine64.com/product/rock64-pinebook-pro-pine-h64-5v-3a-switching-power-supply/?v=0446c16e2e66
Unfortunately, I cannot seem to get it to pass data through.
Edit: I did buy the hub to test, but the Rock64 powersupply is one I've had for a few years because of my sbc hobby.
EDIT2: Further testing shows that using the included barrel jack to usb cable (that comes with the above hub) with the Google provided psu works just fine too. So no need to buy the barrell jack wall wart above. Still no data passthrough though. The hub works just fine on Windows.
From my understanding, it is not USB PD compliant, but it does do some sort of testing of the connected power adapter to make sure it can output enough power. My guess is that some adapters get in the way of the full output of the connected wall wart. Which doesn't surprise me.
Hi, I've just received my new Cromecast with Google TV this.
Already I've managed to connect with this : https://www.amazon.de/-/nl/gp/product/B084G23KL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power I get from my LG OLED TV USB port via a simple USB-A to USB-C cable.
Routing: LG OLED USB port --> USB Hub --> Chromecast (connected via PD output of hub).
I am using a hub too. This one specifically, which has ethernet built in:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX2LW35
It works fine, and it's powered by a 6 port USB-A charging station (otherwise I'd have too many charging bricks in one spot):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q6DZBIQ
I haven't used the ethernet but I have other accessories connected, including a 400gb micro sd adopted as native storage. The more accessories you have connected to the hub, the more power you're going to want to have access to (ie the TV's USB port might not supply enough power).
Your guys' options are spendy. I got it done with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C5FWQND/
You can plug any old hub into it you have laying around and it'll (probably) work.
I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z7H3GJK/
It works fine with the google-supplied power brick plugged into the hub. Ethernet works as well, 1Gb (I think Google's adapter is only 100Mb) However, the activity light is Neuralyzer white. Also have seen reports that if you leave the hub powered and connected to your network without the chromecast, it will cause problems. Otherwise well built.
I bought this one $12.99
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01COH17PS/
There was a comment saying it works, arrives tomorrow.. I'll update post if it really works.
Update
It works, just not with the power adapter that comes with the Chromecast with Google TV. I had to use a different one.
This one also works with ethernet and sd card (and the default power supply):
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08BNQLRTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
robojerk said:
I bought this one $12.99
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01COH17PS/
There was a comment saying it works, arrives tomorrow.. I'll update post if it really works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine arrives tomorrow as well... Any update? Did you need to use a different power supply? I am guessing it may depend on what you have plugged in. I am planning on just using a single flash drive for expanded app storage. I already have a networked drive for media.
jhedfors said:
Mine arrives tomorrow as well... Any update? Did you need to use a different power supply? I am guessing it may depend on what you have plugged in. I am planning on just using a single flash drive for expanded app storage. I already have a networked drive for media.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It works but the power adapter that came with the new Chromecast with Google TV didn't work. Once I swapped it out with a more powerful one we're all good.
96carboard said:
Its looking for a power supply capable of delivering 1.5A of current.
The CPU in the thing is a QUAD-core Cortex-A55. Specifically, Amlogic S905X3. That's a pretty substantial CPU, so I don't think that 1.5A is that much of overkill. If you look at other tv boxes with the same CPU, you'll also see that they typically include 2A power supplies. In order to ensure that the power supply is capable of this, they are enforcing USB-PD profile 1 compliance.
Now USB-PD requires digital communication between the device and the power supply. If your "OnePlus Dash Charger" is not compliant with USB-PD, or if your "simple powered OTG dongle" blocks the communications, then the TV dongle will assume that you have it plugged into a standard 500 mA power adapter and complain to you about it being insufficient.
Oh, and the SoC itself has a TDP of 5W (1A at 5V). Add a few more parts like RAM and UFS and you can easily draw more than that, plus, you always want your power supply to have some room to spare -- not run it at its limits. That clearly puts you into 1.5A *MINIMUM* territory.
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there got got myself a usb hub for new chromecast too.
this hub
So far it works, but not the card readers.. Have to put the micro sd into an usb cardreader an plug it in the usb port of the hub to get the chromecast recognise the storage... Sucks yes
When booting i get this screen (dont know why upsidedown)
It will boot and behave normal, as long i dont attach any usb device.
It will also connect my microsoft bluetooth keyboard, which is pretty handy when you have to type something.
So i want to get an power supply that can provide enough power...
I dont know if its possible to overpower the chromecast and overheat, but i guess it is.
So do you think this
power supply
Would do the job?
Cheers
SchWeinSAuG said:
Hey there got got myself a usb hub for new chromecast too.
this hub
So far it works, but not the card readers.. Have to put the micro sd into an usb cardreader an plug it in the usb port of the hub to get the chromecast recognise the storage... Sucks yes
When booting i get this screen (dont know why upsidedown)
It will boot and behave normal, as long i dont attach any usb device.
It will also connect my microsoft bluetooth keyboard, which is pretty handy when you have to type something.
So i want to get an power supply that can provide enough power...
I dont know if its possible to overpower the chromecast and overheat, but i guess it is.
So do you think this
power supply
Would do the job?
Cheers
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Won't hurt it in any way, but seriously overkill. 60 watts is enough to run a laptop.
joooker16 said:
Hi, I've just received my new Cromecast with Google TV this.
Already I've managed to connect with this : https://www.amazon.de/-/nl/gp/product/B084G23KL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power I get from my LG OLED TV USB port via a simple USB-A to USB-C cable.
Routing: LG OLED USB port --> USB Hub --> Chromecast (connected via PD output of hub).
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Can you tell me if UNEEDE USB C Hub 8 in 1 works with default Chromecast power supply? Thanks
el_easy said:
Can you tell me if UNEEDE USB C Hub 8 in 1 works with default Chromecast power supply? Thanks
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Yes. As I understand, if it happens to work, you could risk damaging your devices.
jhedfors said:
Yes. As I understand, if it happens to work, you could risk damaging your devices.
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Click to collapse
I asked ,because i ordered an ABLEWE USB C Hub 8 in 1 Typ C Hub and did not work : https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B07YZ4THMK/ref=pd_sbs_147_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07YZ4THMK&pd_rd_r=e2bc156d-56aa-4606-8dab-cdf0b3432474&pd_rd_w=3gzsc&pd_rd_wg=yDZuO&pf_rd_p=17269923-e95e-42b2-b8e1-f208b58f5815&pf_rd_r=87P69MVAPFG0JQEM0RN5&psc=1&refRID=87P69MVAPFG0JQEM0RN5
even with different power supply, thats why for my second try, Im very careful what to order.. if anyone can help to choose a proper USB C Hub that works with default Chromecast power supply from Amazon Germany , i will appreciated..Thanks
el_easy said:
I asked ,because i ordered an ABLEWE USB C Hub 8 in 1 Typ C Hub and did not work : https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B07YZ...FG0JQEM0RN5&psc=1&refRID=87P69MVAPFG0JQEM0RN5
even with different power supply, thats why for my second try, Im very careful what to order.. if anyone can help to choose a proper USB C Hub that works with default Chromecast power supply from Amazon Germany , i will appreciated..Thanks
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It is not recommended to use the Chromecast power adapter with a USB hub, as it does not provide enough power.
Find a more powerful adapter.
This is the hub that I am using in the US:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COJ0MDY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
jhedfors said:
Yes. As I understand, if it happens to work, you could risk damaging your devices.
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You won't damage your device. Don't spread this kind of nonsense.
---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------
el_easy said:
I asked ,because i ordered an ABLEWE USB C Hub 8 in 1 Typ C Hub and did not work even with different power supply, thats why for my second try, Im very careful what to order.. if anyone can help to choose a proper USB C Hub that works with default Chromecast power supply from Amazon Germany , i will appreciated..Thanks
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Click to collapse
That should work. What are the details on the second power adapter you tried? The 1.5A adapter these CC's are shipped with are pretty marginal for the power demands. You probably want something that can feed 3A or more at 5V. And remember that Chinese labels are often lies, so even if it says 3A, it could be 0.5A.