Database Develop

How to use USB Host without an HD Dock (Updated 11/7/12)

In light of the EOL status of the Bionic, this method may no longer be the most cost effective, as the HD dock is now $24 on Amazon, before shipping. Still, this is a cheap way to use usb devices away from a tv or monitor. Please keep all of this in mind before considering this option.
Many Bionic users have wondered if they could somehow use USB host without having to buy an expensive dock. Well, I have just finished testing a method that works. Now please note it's not the sleekest or most portable of methods. Still, it works.
Test Build - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0056.jpg
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. In my testing, I have come to the conclusion that Motorola intentionally crippled the phone's OTG functions. It appears that the host mode only works when TWO priorities are met. First, the phone MUST be receiving power. Second, a hub MUST be used. If either of these is not met, the OTG mode stays offline.
Because this method requires extra power, you have to have a powered USB port nearby. Some USB power packs may put out enough power, but it's still uncertain. However, since my Scosche solar battery pack worked both for the Bionic alone and for this build, it could be possible that anything that works for the Bionic will work for the build as well. Also, I have no way of testing this in a car at the moment.
Action Shot - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0052-1.jpg
In the action shot, I am testing a 4GB SanDisk Cruzer. I did run other tests and usb keyboards and mice will work. I used a wireless Targus mouse, as well as a wireless HP mouse and keyboard. They all worked. Sadly, that is the extent of my current HID tech at the moment.
One thing I have observed in my tests is that you should have all of your rig connected before hooking it up to your phone. That includes external power. Not doing so could cause your hub to be recognized much more slowly, or not at all.
I would also like to note that although many hubs allow for AC/DC power adapters to be used, most hubs won't send power through the host port. That is why the Y cable is necessary. But don't worry! I believe that if you attach the power connector of the Y cable to one of the ports of your powered hub, this should give you all the power you need for the phone to charge and activate the OTG mode.
Here's what you need.
USB hub with mini USB port for connecting to host device($5-$20)
Y USB cable($4)
USB Type A Female-USB Micro Male adapter($1-2)
Build subtotal-$10-$26, before tax or shipping. Depending on what you already own, this could still be cheaper than an HD Dock.
All hubs with a mini usb host port should work for this build. But if there are any that don't, please give me the make and model info so I can add them to the list below.
Hubs Confirmed Unusable
None so far
Thank you for looking this through. I hope it helps.
Update 11/7/12- Still works on the 246 OTA.

silversonic1 said:
Many Bionic users have wondered if they could somehow use USB host without having to buy an expensive dock. Well, I have just finished testing a method that works.
Now please note it's not the sleakest or most portable of methods. At this writing, I am still waiting on USB OTG connectors that are known to work for other devices. However, I didn't want to hold back a successful result while waiting on an unknown.
Test Build - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0056.jpg
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. Put simply, it gives the power needed to charge the phone and to power the hub. EXTERNAL POWER IS NECESSARY. Because this method requires extra power, you have to have a powered USB port nearby. Some USB power packs may put out enough power, but it's still uncertain. However, since my Scosche solar battery pack worked both for the Bionic alone and for this build, it could be possible that other packs that work for the Bionic will work as well.
Action Shot - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0052-1.jpg
In the action shot, I am testing a 4GB SanDisk Cruzer. I did run other tests and usb keyboards and mice will work. I used a wireless Targus mouse, as well as a wireless HP mouse and keyboard. They all worked. Sadly, that is the extent of my current HID tech at the moment.
One thing I have observed in my tests is that you should have all of your rig connected before hooking up your phone. That includes external power. Not doing so could cause your hub to be recognized much more slowly, or not at all.
Here's a list of the parts used. (Will update specifics if requested.)
USB hub with USB-mini interface for host device($5-$20)
Y USB cable($4)
USB Type A Female-USB Micro Male adapter($1-2)
Build subtotal-$10-$26, before tax or shipping. That's a lot cheaper than $55-$100 on an HD dock.
Thank you for looking this through. I hope it helps.
(Also, if this thread is in the wrong place, I'm sorry. I didn't think this was necessarily an accessory thing, but rather a way to utilize a built-in feature.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats freaking awesome dude

iNsAnEmOd said:
thats freaking awesome dude
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad you see it that way. It's my hope that this works for any Motorola device that is built with a lapdock mode.

I'm hoping someone makes an app that allows me to use my tablet for a keyboard and mousepad for the webtop. I'm not a fan of hanging out within 6 feet of my tv when using the webtop.
Sent from the Evil Empire

smokedkill said:
I'm hoping someone makes an app that allows me to use my tablet for a keyboard and mousepad for the webtop. I'm not a fan of hanging out within 6 feet of my tv when using the webtop.
Sent from the Evil Empire
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, this rig works with wireless keyboards and mice. True, not the same as a tablet, but it'll get you further from the tv.
As for what you are suggesting, I thought I had heard some people were working on something similar. I'll PM you if I find it.
xda premium is insane! ... In a good way.

What Components
What is the amperage output of the power source your using? Also what is the model number of the usb hub your using? i tried a usb hub i had but it didnt work. Also did you have to bridge the pin 4 to ground on the micro plug in essence creating a otg cable?

codenamefly21 said:
What is the amperage output of the power source your using? Also what is the model number of the usb hub your using? i tried a usb hub i had but it didnt work. Also did you have to bridge the pin 4 to ground on the micro plug in essence creating a otg cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok. One thing a a time.
Power.
In the action shot, I used my laptop. However, the charger that comes with the phone works as well. That's 5.1volts, 850mA
Model of hub.
I have tested 2 different hubs at this point. At the moment, the one from the photos is unavailable, so I can't get the model info from it now. However, the other I tested is a Manhattan 4-port USB hub, model 160612.
Connector.
I made no modifications to the connectors that I have used. They were, however, already being marketed as OTG adapters. I ordered the one from the pictures on dealextreme. I recently bought newer ones from ebay that are angled up the side of the phone. The new ones work as well.
I suggest that you make sure all of your connectors are secure. A proper connection will have the phone charging while the hub receives power. If it fails to connect to a device after 1 minute when you make your first connection, disconnect the phone and than reconnect.
If you still have trouble after, please post what you're using along with a pic of your setup. With any luck, we'll get it all sorted out.

Working portable prototype
I have a working portable prototype using a 9v battery as the power source. I think the problem with the initial test is that i wasnt waiting long enough for the phone to detect the usb hub and the memory card. Now i have it working fully. I have tried 2 different usb hubs and both worked. 1 was the micro innovations usb204n it worked but was a bit bulky. The second was one i bought from a store local to my home called biglots its an E Source brand 4port usb 2.0 $7. Its nice and slim with an extra ac port on the side. The setup ill be creating is i will wire a 9v battery to a 7805 voltage regulator (with an inline power switch of course) soldered directly to the pins of the ac port. Then i will desolder the usb plug and solder in my homemade otg cable. So all you will have to do is plug it directly to the phone plug in the usb drive and then flip the power switch. i dont wanna post pictures of the ugly prototype so ill have pictures of the final product this weekend. I will say that i found out a usb hub is not needed to use a mouse but the otg cable is. Thank you silversonic for your help

codenamefly21 said:
I have a working portable prototype using a 9v battery as the power source. I think the problem with the initial test is that i wasnt waiting long enough for the phone to detect the usb hub and the memory card. Now i have it working fully. I have tried 2 different usb hubs and both worked. 1 was the micro innovations usb204n it worked but was a bit bulky. The second was one i bought from a store local to my home called biglots its an E Source brand 4port usb 2.0 $7. Its nice and slim with an extra ac port on the side. The setup ill be creating is i will wire a 9v battery to a 7805 voltage regulator (with an inline power switch of course) soldered directly to the pins of the ac port. Then i will desolder the usb plug and solder in my homemade otg cable. So all you will have to do is plug it directly to the phone plug in the usb drive and then flip the power switch. i dont wanna post pictures of the ugly prototype so ill have pictures of the final product this weekend. I will say that i found out a usb hub is not needed to use a mouse but the otg cable is. Thank you silversonic for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am certainly looking forward to seeing what all you have come up with. Just take your time. After all, I'm sure there are those who are willing to build a more stylish solution than I have up top.

Battery powered usb hub
Ok so i finished the battery powered usb hub that connects to any micro usb phone but it was to bulky using the 9v battery. So i came up with another design using an old cell phone battery. So it is rechargeable as soon as i add the on off switch it will be finished.
---------- Post added at 09:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:44 PM ----------
The usb hub was just too bulky using the 9v battery
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Rechargeable battery powered usb hub with otg cable
Here is the finished hardware. I took pictures before i seal it all up so yall could see what all i did. The usb hub has a otg cable that plugs into your phone. It has a 950mah cell phone battery and the circuitry from an emergency charger that converts 2 aa batteries (3v) to 5v. Also on the circuitry was an led flashlight so i decided to keep it in there just in case . The only problem was that the off switch that was on the circuit wouldn't shut off the power to the hub for some reason so i put a secondary switch on the power wire to the hub. I had a problem with the charger charging the battery because it charges the battery based on voltage and the capacitors were screwing that up so i put a diode on the power going into the up-scaling circuit board but not as to break the connection with the charger to battery wires.

That is certainly the most mobile solution to USB host so far. Kudos!

problem
I was having a problem soon after I put everything together. Anytime I plugged the phone in the circuit would shut down because to much amperage was being pulled from the battery and as a safety thing lithium batteries will shut down so they wont over heat I finally realized all I had to do was put an 8ohm resistor on the power wire going from the usb hub to the phone. 8ohm only because that was what I had. I tried a 1/2ohm resistor and it worked but the less amperage being pulled from the battery the longer it lasts and the circuit doesn't get as hot.

hey man, thanks a lot for your research! i hopped on this thread and about 30 seconds later i had my wireless (unifying usb receiver) logitech keyboard and mouse working
had a male->male usb cable, usb hub, and micro usb male -> full female lying around. plugged everything in and presto!
the touchscreen monitor doesn't work though for webtop

More than likely because touch screen drivers aren't as generic as mice or keyboards. But it was a good thing to try out. Mind sharing the make and model info? It will be helpful to others to know what to expect.

Mine works, cheapo Micro Center hub
I actually spoke with the OP this weekend, and before I read his reply, I was up and running. Sadly, I bought a Manhattan hub based on his findings, which was a bit pricey given the current price of normal USB hubs. I paid $15 on ebay for one, and when I got it, it didn't work. I then bought a usb Y cable from ebay as well, and that was the culprit, that cable was necessary for any hub, regardless if it uses an AC power adapter or not.
On a good note, that means that there's a good chance cheaper (and easier to find) USB hubs may work. The one I'm currently using is Gear Head brand, was $9 at Micro Center. That hub without using the included power cable, and just using the Y usb cable bought separately and the OTG adapter on ebay got me up and running.
Hmmm...now that I look, it seems the hub I got for $9 went up to $15 anyway, but here's what I used incase you have a MC closeby and don't feel like waiting for shipping. Search for SKU 280750 on Microcenter's site. I'm new here so it won't let me post URL's.
Bad news is you'll be paying a total of around $20 for this project, the good news is that may be the maximum you'd be paying, and that's if you buy a $15 usb hub. Honestly, I'd say just look around local stores for one cheaper that has a mini USB port to connect it to the phone + external power usb port (i.e. a laptop next to the phone), and if it doesn't work, return it as long as you can box it up without it looking demolished. Best of luck to everyone, but I hope my verification shows there may be more hope since the Manhattan model is fairly hard to find at a cheap price.

silversonic1 said:
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. In my testing, I have come to the conclusion that Motorola intentionally crippled the phone's OTG functions. It appears that the host mode only works when TWO priorities are met. First, the phone MUST be receiving power. Second, a hub MUST be used. If either of these is not met, the OTG mode stays offline.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd imagine they didn't want both the phone and Lapdock trying to send power over USB simultaneously.
Thanks for the guide, it was useful

mossadacity said:
I'd imagine they didn't want both the phone and Lapdock trying to send power over USB simultaneously.
Thanks for the guide, it was useful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome. I have updated to the ICS leak, so I will have to test again, just to be sure that nothing has changed.

3d printed docking station
silversonic1 said:
More than likely because touch screen drivers aren't as generic as mice or keyboards. But it was a good thing to try out. Mind sharing the make and model info? It will be helpful to others to know what to expect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delayed reply.
I buy generic cables from meritline.com, so there is no brand on them :good:
I think I'm the first person on Thingiverse to create an accessory for the droid bionic, what do you guys think of it:
That was iteration #1, to get the dimensions correct. From here, I can go anywhere. Do folks have any dock dreams they'd like to see come to fruition?

For a while now I've wanted to be able to use my waterproof camera to take pictures, and use my phone to upload them to the web without needing to fire up a computer to do a transfer from the SD card to the phone. This thread inspired me to finally take the leap to work up an OTG adapter. I went on Amazon to buy the Y-cable and the little adapters, but found something better.
This (board won't let me post a link because I'm new) is a USB hub that connects a phone to one of the four downstream ports with a built-in micro USB connector cable. I ordered one up, suspecting that I could mod it to be an OTG adapter. I was right.
To do the mod, the first step is to pry the endcap off the micro USB connector and slide the cover back. This exposes the soldered wire connections. One side of the connector has three wires.
The other side has one wire and an empty solder pad.
Solder a jumper wire from the empty pad to the black wire on the other side.
Then slide the connector cover back over the connector, and press the endcap back into place. If necessary, you can secure the end cap with a drop of super glue.
Next, open the case of the hub. Mine pulled right open with only finger pressure. Use a small screwdriver to remove the circuit board. It is not held by anything other than a light press fit.
This is the back side of the circuit board.
This is the chip that runs the USB hub.
I googled the chip number and downloaded the data sheet, just to be sure there were no gotchas. There weren't any. The only modification is swapping the regular and the micro USB cables. It goes without saying that this requires a very fine soldering iron and a steady hand. Desolder both cables and reattach the micro USB cable on the Host end of the circuit board.
This lets your phone control the hub. As was mentioned earlier in the thread, the Droid Bionic won't power the hub, so you need to hook up the other USB cable to the device side of the circuit board to provide power. Only hook up the power wires. Just cut the data wires short.
Then reinstall the circuit board into the case.
And press the cover back on.
It would be easy to wire a battery to the hub either by connecting to the USB port cable, through the 5VDC power input jack, or by removing the jack and hard wiring directly to the circuit board.
To use the adapter, I plug my SD card reader into the hub, plug the power USB connector into my wall adapter (or car adapter), and plug the micro USB cable into the phone (in that order). The phone immediately loads the card as an attached storage device.
Enjoy,
Todd F.

4 port USB hub, 900ma per port

I came across this hub:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...d=1030702&p_id=9955&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
Looks pretty nice, all USB 3.0 ports, capable of supplying a 900ma of power to each port. Good for all sorts of things, not just a tablet being connected to the computer.
What I was wondering about this is would it be possible to open it up and short the data pins so that it is only capable of being a charging device? If so, it probably wouldnt even need a connection to a PC, just need to be plugged into the power adapter. I am wondering on this because if possible, that would mean when only using 1 port it (theoretically) would be capable of sending 3.8A out to the one device if the device tried to pull that much. Since the tablet would see the shorted connection it should at least try to pull 2A. Anyway, I just thought it would be a fun project to try and modify in this way. I will probably get it soon and attempt this myself, and might even look into beefing up the internal power circuit area to make sure it can safely send 3+ amps out one port if asked to. It would be nice to use this in conjunction with a pogo connector and finally be able to charge faster than the tablet drains while gaming.

EniGmA1987 said:
... Looks pretty nice, all USB 3.0 ports, ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nexus 10 USB specs "microUSB v2.0"
http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_google_nexus_10_p8110-5084.php
Would you get value from USB 3.0 ports with a USB v2.0 interface?

To get the full USB 3.0 power of 900mA, the device has to be configured as a USB3.0 device. The hardware developer USB 3.0 command verifier tool is separate from the USB 2.0 one
I thought we had also verified the USB connector and the POGO connector are mutually exclusive in power terms, even if the charging circuit inside the Nexus 10 could be modified to accept more than 2.5A.

skally said:
To get the full USB 3.0 power of 900mA, the device has to be configured as a USB3.0 device. The hardware developer USB 3.0 command verifier tool is separate from the USB 2.0 one
I thought we had also verified the USB connector and the POGO connector are mutually exclusive in power terms, even if the charging circuit inside the Nexus 10 could be modified to accept more than 2.5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I dont scour the threads in accessories every day so thats news to me. Besides, I dont even know what "mutually exclusive" is supposed to mean in relation to this. If the pogo connector has a USB end and draws 2A from the power adapter, why wouldnt it be able to draw 2A from any source capable of putting out that much power? Your trying to tell me that the pogo connector somehow signals it is a USB2.0 device? If thats the case it wouldnt be able to draw more than the 500mA. The regular power adapter has a USB output connector after all and it can send 2A just fine. This hub has its own power adapter and doesnt try to draw the full 3.8A through a computer connection. What is the difference between the power adapter that comes with the tablet and a hub that has its own PSU to output that much and more power?
and yes I know it wouldnt transfer at 3.0 data speeds since the tablet has a 2.0 port, but I wouldn't be using the USB port on the tablet. But why would the USB somehow signal that it will only send 500mA through the pogo connector?

EniGmA1987 said:
Sorry, I dont scour the threads in accessories every day so thats news to me. Besides, I dont even know what "mutually exclusive" is supposed to mean in relation to this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mutually exclusive: charge from POGO or USB, but not both at the same time
EniGmA1987 said:
If the pogo connector has a USB end and draws 2A from the power adapter, why wouldnt it be able to draw 2A from any source capable of putting out that much power? Your trying to tell me that the pogo connector somehow signals it is a USB2.0 device? If thats the case it wouldnt be able to draw more than the 500mA. The regular power adapter has a USB output connector after all and it can send 2A just fine. This hub has its own power adapter and doesnt try to draw the full 3.8A through a computer connection. What is the difference between the power adapter that comes with the tablet and a hub that has its own PSU to output that much and more power?
and yes I know it wouldnt transfer at 3.0 data speeds since the tablet has a 2.0 port, but I wouldn't be using the USB port on the tablet. But why would the USB somehow signal that it will only send 500mA through the pogo connector?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The POGO connector, although it connects to a USB port, is not bound by the USB specification for how much it can draw. USB chargers are available that can deliver up to 3A, but it's up to the device to request this much power.
The specifications for USB 2.0 of 500mA (and 900mA for USB 3.0) are for a power and data connection, but their is an added specification for power only of 1.8A (and 5A for USB 3.0). a hub will generally adhere to the power and data specification, while the USB PSU has no data functionality (this is determined by their being a short circuit on the D+/D- USB pair).
The reason a USB 2.0 device will not draw 900mA from a USB 3.0 port, is because it's the device that negotiates the connection, and as a USB 2.0 device, it will only request the 500mA maximum from the USB 2.0 specification.
Try to think of it this way: an incandescent light bulb will not be any brighter if you increase the power source current.

Ok, but you just said everything I was talking about. So when I modify the hub to get rid of the data connection, and not even connect it to a computer and just have its power supply connected, how would that be different than simply a normal charger? The tablet would be charging through its pogo connector, and it simply plugs into the hub with a 3.8A power supply. So it wouldnt have anything to do with any USB limits then right? Cause the hub is USB3.0 ports capable so it is not like a USB 2.0 hub that wouldnt have the proper internal circuitry to push the 3.8A I will be trying to draw.

EniGmA1987 said:
Ok, but you just said everything I was talking about. So when I modify the hub to get rid of the data connection, and not even connect it to a computer and just have its power supply connected, how would that be different than simply a normal charger? The tablet would be charging through its pogo connector, and it simply plugs into the hub with a 3.8A power supply. So it wouldnt have anything to do with any USB limits then right? Cause the hub is USB3.0 ports capable so it is not like a USB 2.0 hub that wouldnt have the proper internal circuitry to push the 3.8A I will be trying to draw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you short the D+/D- pins, you can then use the hub as a standard charger PSU, capable of delivering 3.8A.
The issue is that current gets pulled, not pushed. It doesn't matter how many Amps you provide, the Nexus 10 charging circuit is only capable of pulling a maximum of 2.5A. (datasheet for the charge circuit can be found here).
From earlier posts (in one of the POGO threads, I think), there were found to be kernel limits restricting the SMB347 charging to 2A.

Power over HDMI?

I have two TVs, both with HDMI 1.4. I have read conflicting reports of power over HDMI with HDMI 1.4 being possible. Can anyone confirm this works, because I can't get it to?

doug684 said:
I have two TVs, both with HDMI 1.4. I have read conflicting reports of power over HDMI with HDMI 1.4 being possible. Can anyone confirm this works, because I can't get it to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my Vizio M551D which as 1.4a ports does not support power over hdmi.

As far as I know the only way to support power over HDMI is via like MHL, which the chromecast doesn't support.
I'm pretty sure any claim that said they were able to just power it via the hdmi port was BS

The Hdmi port does supply 50ma at 5vdc over pin 18. But from what I have seen on the chromecast pin 18 is not used or dead a small jumper wire going from this pin to a positive supply trace could in fact power the chromecast over hdmi as long as more then 50ma could be used. So this does not seem to be an option.

HDMI vs. MHL Power supply
Yes, HDMI has inherited some power supply requirements from DDC. It's 0,250W (5V * 50mA). This is unfortunately going in the wrong direction: From e.g. stick (if pin 18 is connected anyway, it's apparently not...) through HDMI to TV. This energy should be provided to power the internal EPROM of the TV. This intended for peripherals to read info about the HDMI-sink of the TV even when the TV is deeply sleeping. The spec even allows this 50mA to be reduced to 1mA when a session is initialized. Hence this is unuseable.
MHL has revered the power supply direction. This is now from TV to the Phone. This is inteded to power the phone. Unfotunately most TV sets at home don't have any or a proper MHL implementation available.
Hence a mass produced stick can't rely on that, and an additional USB power cable is mandatory.
Does this clarify the HDMI MHL power confusion a little?
Bernd Steinke, xBounds Architect

Best topicson XDA! Fortunately with USB C HDMI will be outdated and replaced. Surprisingly I have not seen any TVs with USB C at this point.

[Q] Active and TV Out

Didn't know we had our own thread now.
Anyways so I've been trying to hook my active up to my monitor -- an ASUS VX238H -- and I finally got the correct MHL to HDMI adapter, but I still can't get it to work and I've tried three different HDMI cables. With this Sypder C Class cable and this Belkin cable I have the phone would detect being plugged up to the HDMI, but the monitor wouldn't recognize it, and with this off brand cable when I plug it in my monitor goes black (and it has two HDMI inputs with my computer plugged into HDMI1 and the phone plugged into HDMI2). Is there a specific cable I need or perhaps cables without a specific feature (such as Ethernet)?

This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?

dibeachdude said:
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I read that was only needed for wireless connections and that HDMI connections didn't need that. Guess I'll give it a shot after work and see if that is the issue, but still I don't understand why the one cable would cause my monitor to go black despite me not having selected the HDMI2 input...

I have a cable left over from my Motorola Atrix 4G. I will give it a try tonight to see if I get any better results.

dibeachdude said:
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I tried enabling Screen Mirroring but it told me to disconnect the HDMI cable first. Guess I'll just have to wait till I get paid again and get a different HDMI cable to try with (one without Ethernet) and see if I have better results.

I was reading an article from pcmag about screen mirroring (Google "How to Connect Your Samsung Galaxy S 4 to Your TV"). It said something about using a specific MHL to HDMI connector and then connecting a separate HDMI cable and a power cable. I'm not sure why you would need all of the extra cables, especially the power cable. I would think that the digital audio and video signals would be low enough power that it would use less power than the backlight. Maybe there is something specific about the pinout of the Samsung USB that requires that particular cable. If I get a chance to try my other cable tonight, I will post the results. Good luck.

dibeachdude said:
I was reading an article from pcmag about screen mirroring (Google "How to Connect Your Samsung Galaxy S 4 to Your TV"). It said something about using a specific MHL to HDMI connector and then connecting a separate HDMI cable and a power cable. I'm not sure why you would need all of the extra cables, especially the power cable. I would think that the digital audio and video signals would be low enough power that it would use less power than the backlight. Maybe there is something specific about the pinout of the Samsung USB that requires that particular cable. If I get a chance to try my other cable tonight, I will post the results. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had posted in the S4 QA section there are two different types of MHL-HDMI adapters.
A 5-pin variation for the older generation of phones like the S2 and the Infuse.
A 11-pin variation for the newer generation of phones like the S3 and S4.
The adapter does need some power to power it since it is an electronic device but not much. The rest of the power that's not used by the adapter is used to charge the phone.
I initially bought a 5-pin adapter because I didn't research enough before hand (it was a bit of an impulse buy) and so I didn't know there were two different types. I then bought an official Samsung MHL-HDMI 11-pin adpater which is what I've been using now.
I really think the issue is with the cables I'm trying to use so when I do get paid again I'm going to buy a HDMI cable with just the base A/V transfer and see if that works.

Please ignore what I said altogether. I assumed that I had a cable from my previous phone that would work for HDMI, but the cable that I have isn't even a USB connector. It has a completely different plug on it. I never used it on my last phone, and I didn't even remember the phone having two different plugs. Now, I am wanting to get the proper cable and try it. I have always thought that it would be cool to run XBMC on my phone.
Found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-MHL-To-HDTV-Smart-Adapter-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S-III-EPL-3FHUBEGSTA-/261233789076?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3cd2bf4894
I will post my results when it comes in.

dibeachdude said:
Please ignore what I said altogether. I assumed that I had a cable from my previous phone that would work for HDMI, but the cable that I have isn't even a USB connector. The one that I have is an entirely different interface. I never used it on my last phone, and I didn't even remember the phone having two different plugs. Now, I am wanting to the proper cable and try it. I have always that the it would be cool to run XBMC on my phone.
Found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-MHL-To-HDTV-Smart-Adapter-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S-III-EPL-3FHUBEGSTA-/261233789076?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3cd2bf4894
I will post my results when it comes in.
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Click to collapse
That's the one I have now.

My cable came in today, and it works perfectly. It is the original Samsung (EPL-3FHUBEGSTA) MHL to HDMI cable. I noticed that they raised the price on ebay by $5.00. They can still be found for around $11 or $12 though. All I did was plug mine in to the phone, the power cable, and HDMI, and then, I selected "Screen Mirroring" in settings. The problem may be with you monitor. I have seen some monitors that do not connect with certain HDMI devices. I think it has something to do with supporting 1080i vs 1080p. I've never been able to test the theory, but at work we have a large plasma TV that very few devices (almost none) will connect to. I have found a few other, usually smaller, monitors that seem to do the same thing. Good luck.

dibeachdude said:
My cable came in today, and it works perfectly. It is the original Samsung (EPL-3FHUBEGSTA) MHL to HDMI cable. I noticed that they raised the price on ebay by $5.00. They can still be found for around $11 or $12 though. All I did was plug mine in to the phone, the power cable, and HDMI, and then, I selected "Screen Mirroring" in settings. The problem may be with you monitor. I have seen some monitors that do not connect with certain HDMI devices. I think it has something to do with supporting 1080i vs 1080p. I've never been able to test the theory, but at work we have a large plasma TV that very few devices (almost none) will connect to. I have found a few other, usually smaller, monitors that seem to do the same thing. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using a HDMI cable with Ethernet or just an A/V HDMI cable? All the HDMI cables I have have Ethernet except maybe my 360 HDMI cable. I'm going to order this other cable online and try with that and if it doesn't work then I'm just going to assume my monitor is like what you said. Just a fyi it's supposed to support 1080p.

Ok just thought I'd provide an update. I got the Belkin A/V (no Ethernet) cable in today and it too didn't work so I'm just going to chalk it up to my monitor not supporting the MHL signal. I suppose I shouldn't be too surprised since it is a computer monitor after all.

Ethernet Adaptor for original and new Chromecasts - from Ugreen - what a difference!

I don't know whether any of you know, but UGreen have just bought out an Ethernet adaptor for the original and new Chromecasts, and what a difference it makes! Despite not being too far from my WiFi router, I was really having stuttering problems with my original Chromecast in my garden office; it really shouldn't have 'cos the signal was good, but I think I was getting interference from the laser cutter and 3D printer running at the same time. Electrical noise really doesn't help with streaming via WiFi.
Anyway, I've been looking for a way to improve it for a while, until I came across this new cable. You plug in the microUSB to the Chromecast as usual, and the other end to the power, and the third 'end' (!) has an ethernet port! Worked first time! I was expecting to have to reset the device so that it would use ethernet in preference, but nope, it defaulted to the Ethernet connection. Now streaming is flawless!
Thoroughly recommend this if you've got the same problem.

Google USB Ethernet adapter for the Chromecast
GeekyTim said:
I don't know whether any of you know, but UGreen have just bought out an Ethernet adaptor for the original and new Chromecasts, and what a difference it makes!
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Click to collapse
Why not use the original Google USB Ethernet adapter for the Chromecast (for $15, cable length: 2 meters, power supply inlcuded!)?
Which UGreen adapter do you use? Please post a link.
Edit: UGREEN Ethernet Adapter for Chromecast with Micro USB to RJ 45 Ethernet Adater for Chromecast with Power Supply (for $14.99, cable length: 1 meter, power supply NOT inlcuded!)

SGH-i200 said:
(for $14.99, cable length: 1 meter, power supply NOT inlcuded!)
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Power supply not included, but my guess is that you can power it up via the TV's usb port? Which actually is a selling point, if that works. I power my Chromecast with a usb connected to the TV, and feel that it's a bit "meh" having to plug it in to an actual power socket, when I have a perfectly good (less clunky) alternative.

Chromcast Ultra needs more power than the USB port on the TV can supply!
KaffeMyers said:
Power supply not included, but my guess is that you can power it up via the TV's usb port? Which actually is a selling point, if that works.
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Does it work? The Chromcast Ultra needs more power than the USB port of the Samsung LE32C679 TV can supply! https://www.amazon.de/review/R2XUTU...etail-glance&nodeID=340843031&store=computers

Chromecast with ethernet adapter powered by TV
KaffeMyers said:
I power my Chromecast with a usb connected to the TV.
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If the Chromecast is not powered by the TV, it will not switch off with the TV!