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I've read everywhere in reviews and such that the Nexus One has geotagging and a macro mode in its camera.
Can anyone tell me where geotagging is in the camera app? I can't see any reference or mention to geotagging throughout the phone.
I also can't see any options for macro mode in the camera.
hackm0d said:
I've read everywhere in reviews and such that the Nexus One has geotagging and a macro mode in its camera.
Can anyone tell me where geotagging is in the camera app? I can't see any reference or mention to geotagging throughout the phone.
I also can't see any options for macro mode in the camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look in the settings in the camera app, but I believe geotagging is a default option. In Froyo it looks like the GPS satellite icon.
Nope, can't find anything. I'm still on Eclair.
There is a geotagging option for sure, and it's in the camera. I remember turning it on. It's not called "geotagging", though. Might be "Tag photos" or something like that.
by default in eclair, if you leave gps active and take a photo, it should geotag.
Jack_R1 said:
There is a geotagging option for sure, and it's in the camera. I remember turning it on. It's not called "geotagging", though. Might be "Tag photos" or something like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, this is what I see:
Flash Mode
White Balance
Anti Banding
Color effect
Store location
Picture size
Picture quality
Focus mode
Focus sound
No geotagging or macro mode.
behelit said:
by default in eclair, if you leave gps active and take a photo, it should geotag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't though, even after the Compass and Maps app gets a lock.
When you take a pic the beast puts some data with the pic, (date, time, focal length, pixels,....) and if the GPS is on 'n running (and thus knows where U R..) it will add GPS location info...(latitude, longtitude... etc..)
So,, when you then later look at Pic (on 'phone with, presumably, suitable APP [I ain't seen how to see these data with gallery] - or on PC with any number of bits of SW [I use gThumb on Linux]) you can see & do things with the GPS data...) you can see where you woz...
Some cameras (expensive usually) also GPS-tag pics... almost all digital snaps in my experience come with all the other tag data...
See also..
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geotagged_photo.
Further I assume you RTMF'd first...
The excellent Android Users Guide for 2.2 p 259 has this wee entry...
To view the location of a picture in Google Maps
If you have configured Camera to save location data with your pictures (see “Changing
Camera settings” on page 245), you can view the location where you took the picture
in Google Maps.
1 Touch a picture to view the controls and touch Menu.
2 Touch More.
3 Touch Show on map.
Google Maps opens, centered on the location stored in the picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
- it works, I just tried it..
- read 'n enjoy!!
http://www.google.com/support/phone/bin/answer.py?en&answer=182077
I'm pretty sure it worked like this in 2.1 also...
Also Googles must use the GPS tag info when linking from photo to other stuff....
Cheers 'n hope-that-helps...
Lodger
hackm0d said:
I've read everywhere in reviews and such that the Nexus One has geotagging and a macro mode in its camera.
Can anyone tell me where geotagging is in the camera app? I can't see any reference or mention to geotagging throughout the phone.
I also can't see any options for macro mode in the camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
on 2.1, there is an option in 'settings' for security and location, which says store location in pictures, or something similar. give it a looksee.
once you've found that option, install GPSstatus from the market, and make sure you have a 'location lock' before you start shooting. it will affirm that your gps is working (1) and that your camera has access to the gps (2) for tagging.
after taking a picture, the 'info' bit should reveal 'show on maps' or soemthing similar. you can also see the GPS coordinates in decent image viewers like: picasa, mac preview, etc
"Store location" = geotagging.
Wait until you see GPS symbol, that'll say that GPS is locked and the location is accurate.
hackm0d said:
Nope, this is what I see:
Flash Mode
White Balance
Anti Banding
Color effect
Store location
Picture size
Picture quality
Focus mode
Focus sound
No geotagging or macro mode.
It doesn't though, even after the Compass and Maps app gets a lock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
umm yeah, store location is the geotagging option. turn it on.
I need to be able to control the contrast and brightness of the images I take with the moto x camera. Sharpness would also be handy. The lack of controls on the built-in camera app is pretty appalling, very crude compared to the 3 year old HTC Incredible I have been using with it's native app. What has surprised me is that none of the apps I have downloaded to try will allow control of both contrast and brightness either, not to mention sharpness. Can someone enlighten as to why this is? Is normal access to the lower level sensor data not available for some reason? I don't get it. I am knowledgeable about digital image processing, but not that much about the needed android access to the sensor and the specifics for the moto x. Even the apps that advertised these adjustments for android phones did not offer controls for these functions on the moto X. If I have missed the obvious fix, I apologize and please point me in the right direction.
Thanks -
This could be the next moto cam.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2427015
aviwdoowks said:
This could be the next moto cam.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2427015
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like the moto x camera the way it is picture quality and recording could be a little better but I don't want that lenovo crap.
Sent from my XT1058 using xda premium
Couldn't get Lenovo camera app to work. Downloaded the apk and tried installing both from adb window, and directly on my phone, and also downloaded the zip file and used my recovery to install that. IN all cases, "Unfortunately, Lenovo SNAPit and SEEit has stopped." is the result.
As far as the native app goes, I use my phone to take pictures of blackboards and white boards all the time, and need to be able to adjust the bias and gain of the sensor basically, commonly called brightness and contrast. The lenovo app doesn't seem to work on Moto X. Any other recommendations? Or has anyone else successfully used it on the moto x?
I've been successful in controlling "brightness" simply by manually controlling the focus and exposure.
nhizzat said:
I've been successful in controlling "brightness" simply by manually controlling the focus and exposure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, it works reasonably for that, but on a blackboard that has chalk over a previously erased board, without great lighting, it really helps to have contrast control as well. It's not that hard to do, and between brightness and contrast controls it's pretty easy to get a good exposure. I'm really surprised there is nothing out there to do that, and it makes me think that there is something about the moto x that underlying it all. Thus my post. That would explain why those controls on apps that advertise them are missing when loaded onto the moto x.
Mine too!! I only last used it on 422 a week ago!!
Sorry. Great cam.
dmm108 said:
yes, it works reasonably for that, but on a blackboard that has chalk over a previously erased board, without great lighting, it really helps to have contrast control as well. It's not that hard to do, and between brightness and contrast controls it's pretty easy to get a good exposure. I'm really surprised there is nothing out there to do that, and it makes me think that there is something about the moto x that underlying it all. Thus my post. That would explain why those controls on apps that advertise them are missing when loaded onto the moto x.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brightness/Contrast are adjusted after the shot, not before. This is easily done with any photo editor app.
What you're looking for is exposure compensation & ISO settings.....both of which are available on all of the 3rd party cameras I've downloaded. I like the Moto Camera because of the twist-to-launch gesture....but the camera is severely lacking in options. I keep the app Focal on my phone as well when I need to compose a specific shot.....but if I really wanna tinker I'll just forget crappy cell-phone cameras & pull out the DSLR.
Arak-Nafein said:
Brightness/Contrast are adjusted after the shot, not before. This is easily done with any photo editor app.
What you're looking for is exposure compensation & ISO settings.....both of which are available on all of the 3rd party cameras I've downloaded. I like the Moto Camera because of the twist-to-launch gesture....but the camera is severely lacking in options. I keep the app Focal on my phone as well when I need to compose a specific shot.....but if I really wanna tinker I'll just forget crappy cell-phone cameras & pull out the DSLR.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I'm trying to avoid the extra step of post processing the photos in my computer. My old HTC Incredible had controls for brightness, contrast, and sharpening, and it was handy to just set it for the lighting conditions and be done. Doesn't seem like that much to ask for, since it was part of the default controls years ago. Simple image processing transformations and look-up table manipulation.
dmm108 said:
Actually I'm trying to avoid the extra step of post processing the photos in my computer. My old HTC Incredible had controls for brightness, contrast, and sharpening, and it was handy to just set it for the lighting conditions and be done. Doesn't seem like that much to ask for, since it was part of the default controls years ago. Simple image processing transformations and look-up table manipulation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, that was probably some HTC software that gave you those settings. BTW most gallery apps have the ability to do minor editing like adjusting brightness & contrast.
What I'm trying to tell you is that you're looking for the wrong words. Look for ISO & exposure compensation instead. Contrast isn't simply "adjusted" in a camera....it depends on your lighting & exposure....so any "contrast" setting you were adjusting on the HTC was basically a filter. Same for "brightness".
If you want to make your photo brighter, set your ISO higher or up your exposure compensation....both settings easily adjusted on 3rd party camera apps. I can't say that I've ever used a camera app with "brightness" and "contrast" settings before taking a picture. Those are always adjusted after-the-fact.
^^^ this
Arak-Nafein said:
Well, that was probably some HTC software that gave you those settings. BTW most gallery apps have the ability to do minor editing like adjusting brightness & contrast.
What I'm trying to tell you is that you're looking for the wrong words. Look for ISO & exposure compensation instead. Contrast isn't simply "adjusted" in a camera....it depends on your lighting & exposure....so any "contrast" setting you were adjusting on the HTC was basically a filter. Same for "brightness".
If you want to make your photo brighter, set your ISO higher or up your exposure compensation....both settings easily adjusted on 3rd party camera apps. I can't say that I've ever used a camera app with "brightness" and "contrast" settings before taking a picture. Those are always adjusted after-the-fact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"They are always adjusted afterwards" specifically because you never had a camera where that adjustment was possible before taking the picture, and you never had the need for it. So of course they were always adjusted afterwards.
I'm not using the wrong words. I simply want my camera app to give me control over contrast, and sharpness if possible. I never said I couldn't control brightness, and I understand what ISO and exposure controls do. I am a computer engineer with many years of experience in digital imaging. I know of what I speak, but more to the point, I know of what I want. If you can point me to an app that does that, great. Otherwise we can just agree to disagree about what you and I think I need. . If you can give me insight on a low level as to moto x's access to sensor data that might explain why camera apps that have this functionality on other platforms don't on the moto x, which would inform me writing my own controls, that would be even better.
dmm108 said:
"They are always adjusted afterwards" specifically because you never had a camera where that adjustment was possible before taking the picture, and you never had the need for it. So of course they were always adjusted afterwards.
I'm not using the wrong words. I simply want my camera app to give me control over contrast, and sharpness if possible. I never said I couldn't control brightness, and I understand what ISO and exposure controls do. I am a computer engineer with many years of experience in digital imaging. I know of what I speak, but more to the point, I know of what I want. If you can point me to an app that does that, great. Otherwise we can just agree to disagree about what you and I think I need. . If you can give me insight on a low level as to moto x's access to sensor data that might explain why camera apps that have this functionality on other platforms don't on the moto x, which would inform me writing my own controls, that would be even better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I came off as condescending, my apologies.
I dunno man, the only thing I can think of even close to what you're talking about is maybe Paper camera? https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dama.papercamera
I know it's silly, but you mentioned chalkboards & perhaps one of the silly filters will allow you to capture what you need? There's a brightness & contrast slider, it's all realtime adjustments.
Beyond that, I do not know. Good luck on your search! If you find something let us know because I'm interested to see how this pans out!
Arak-Nafein said:
I came off as condescending, my apologies.
I dunno man, the only thing I can think of even close to what you're talking about is maybe Paper camera? https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dama.papercamera
I know it's silly, but you mentioned chalkboards & perhaps one of the silly filters will allow you to capture what you need? There's a brightness & contrast slider, it's all realtime adjustments.
Beyond that, I do not know. Good luck on your search! If you find something let us know because I'm interested to see how this pans out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no apology needed, I appreciate the exchange - and if I find something pertinent, either an app, or some information about moto x specific barrier I'll pass it on.
dmm108 said:
no apology needed, I appreciate the exchange - and if I find something pertinent, either an app, or some information about moto x specific barrier I'll pass it on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using ART? I am and the fv-5 is not compatible.
aviwdoowks said:
Are you using ART? I am and the fv-5 is not compatible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FV-5 did have contrast, brightness and sharpness control on one screen, but initially I had much trouble with it on the Moto-X. Basically I could not find a way to get solid confirmation of how many pictures I actually took. Sometimes I'd think I took several to find out I had one or two, and sometimes I had multiples. I did email the deveoper. I downloaded it again after your post, and it seems to be working as designed now. I wish the contrast/sharpness menu was not so buried in the menu tree and that I could choose it to be one of the on screen icons.
I'm not familiar with ART, so maybe you could explain that to me.
dmm108 said:
FV-5 did have contrast, brightness and sharpness control on one screen, but initially I had much trouble with it on the Moto-X. Basically I could not find a way to get solid confirmation of how many pictures I actually took. Sometimes I'd think I took several to find out I had one or two, and sometimes I had multiples. I did email the deveoper. I downloaded it again after your post, and it seems to be working as designed now. I wish the contrast/sharpness menu was not so buried in the menu tree and that I could choose it to be one of the on screen icons.
I'm not familiar with ART, so maybe you could explain that to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just posted about it here.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=51782126#post51782126
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2589530
---------- Post added at 07:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:43 PM ----------
So you must be on dalvik.
aviwdoowks said:
I just posted about it here.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=51782126#post51782126
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2589530
---------- Post added at 07:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:43 PM ----------
So you must be on dalvik.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been, so I just turned on ART, and I'll let you know after a while the effects, but I'll switch over to your above thread so we can maintain the topic of this one.
First, thanks for any input. I have a N6 that I use on my business, which is retail arbitrage. Basically I find cheap stuff and resell it online at a profit. I have many apps devoted to scanning items to look them up online. Most of them also work with a bluetooth barcode scanner, but that is not always withe me or convenient to the situation.
I have found that the my primary app, called scoutify (requires subscription), is very hard to scan barcodes with using the camera. It uses libraries/software called redlaser as the barcode scanning component. I have used this app on many other devices, many much lower than the N6 with no issues.
I have read about the N6 having camera slowness issues, but this does not seem to be slowness. What happens as you bring in a barcode, the camera is constantly attempting to focus on the backgound items as the barcode does not fill up the frame. It will focus in and out many times. you have to constantly move the item to scan close too and away from the camera and hope it actually focuses on what you want. Redlaser, at least as it is packaged in this app does not have any options. You can touch screen to focus, but it does not help on the N6.
Does anyone know of any settings under the hood that can be adjusted to maybe change the cameras focus behavior?
I am pretty comfortable with a rooted phone and ADB so I can backup and test things, I just do not know enough about the camera to know if this is possible or where to begin.
Thanks again!
i send a raw dng to lightroom and only the very center part of the image is properly exposed ?
I saw this in several other examples of 40mp shots. Seems inevitable with that many pixels in such a small sensor, likely can be remedied to a reasonable extent in Lightroom or similar. I don't know what people are expecting from 40mp shots here, it's obvious they'll be significantly compromised?
Raw is raw, so no preprocessing to remove the vignetting has been done. Create a lens profile in your favourite Raw converter or wait untill someone else did that job.
The raw benefits are there to reap, THANKS Huawei.
Ender
This was shot in 10mp mode (or is raw always 40mp ?)
I've locate other raws on the net that has the same effect.
at http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/huawei_p20_pro_review/sample_images/
It's not only that everything becomes darker at the edges, there is also a blue/green color cast.
This would make shooting in raw a real nightmare ?
enderffx said:
Raw is raw, so no preprocessing to remove the vignetting has been done. Create a lens profile in your favourite Raw converter or wait untill someone else did that job.
The raw benefits are there to reap, THANKS Huawei.
Ender
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks for the reply , i understand that raw is supposed to be unprocessed sensor data , but i never considered that the exposure changes from center to edge of lense would be that bad.
I still hope that it has something to do with the multiple lenses , and maybe the data from one of the lenses is not properly processed in raw.
I had some similar trouble with the super ccd Fujifilm S3 Pro.
Hi,
no, itj just vignetting, something existing even on $10k lenses, just not as obvious.
Its all good & perfect, if you cannot create a lens profile for yourself, try Automatic or wait until someone in-the-know did so.
Ender
Vignetting is strong, but the biggest problem is the severe green tint around the centre and the purple tint in the middle of the image, it takes additional steps to fix this. Fixing vignetting is pretty easy, however, you will just increase the noise.
The problem is the small lens. You have to cover bigger sensor and you need bigger elements for that. Also, the lens is of pretty bad quality, quite soft, especially when you are not looking in the centre of the image.
I hope people understand what it actually mean to shoot in RAW :silly:
otonieru said:
I hope people understand what it actually mean to shoot in RAW :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i know what raw file's are.
And you can only spot these lens imperfections using the raw file , since they are corrected away in the the processed jpg files.
Hence the title of the topic.
The P20 pro is the first time i'm peeking at raw files on such a tiny sensor/lens device. My other lenses are a bit more uniform across the image, so that surprised me a bit.
Makes me appreciate the auto jpg's on this phone a bit more, they already do a lot of work.
So far i am really in love with the night shot and silky water modes.
bk227865 said:
Yes i know what raw file's are.
And you can only spot these lens imperfections using the raw file , since they are corrected away in the the processed jpg files.
Hence the title of the topic.
The P20 pro is the first time i'm peeking at raw files on such a tiny sensor/lens device. My other lenses are a bit more uniform across the image, so that surprised me a bit.
Makes me appreciate the auto jpg's on this phone a bit more, they already do a lot of work.
So far i am really in love with the night shot and silky water modes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If we are into technical specification, its due to the larger sensor used in P20 Pro, its harder to provide even light/brightness when sensor size used is larger. Corner will have less brightness and sharpness.
Its like trying to cover a square piece of paper area using a bottom of our drinking glass. It will always left corner area uncovered.
This is also happening to most of Full Frame DSLR and Mirrorless professional camera.
We need a bigger (much bigger) honestly to technically fix this flaw. But that will come in cost of portability. And even by then, we still need to think about the light trajectory, because if there are to many light fall outside if sensor area, that would also cost us the image quality
Thats why company choose to use software solution to overcome this. And that what we see in 10MP mode, where the result already processed by the imaging engine. Removing vignette and adding sharpness. Aside from color toning of course.
For me, 40MP and RAW mode is to be used when i know that i gonna use the image professionally and gonna need to tweak it myself later using lightroom or photoshop. (Or even snapseed if am on high mobility)
otonieru said:
For me, 40MP and RAW mode is to be used when i know that i gonna use the image professionally and gonna need to tweak it myself later using lightroom or photoshop. (Or even snapseed if am on high mobility)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read something about a quad bayer sensor beeing used.
Is there any benifit in shooting at 10MP in relation to dynamic range ?
I other words is there more going on then just averaging pixels when 10MP mode is used ?
Like documented in the the sony IMX294CJK sensor ?
It uses a Quad Bayer structure, and outputs data binned in 2 × 2 pixel units in normal mode. In HDR mode, integration can be divided into long-time integration and short-time integration for each 2 pixels in the Quad array. In this case there is no time difference between long-time integration and short-time integration, which realizes HDR with little blending offset when imaging moving subjects "
Hi,
Look at this post where we can see the same issue with dng files for the LG G4 (until LG fixed it with the Marshmallow software update).
What's happening here is that there is no flat field correction embedded in the P20 pro dng file; when opening the dng in Lightroom for example, it's going to have strong vignetting and color cast in the corners.
I currently have a Mate 10 Pro and the issue with dng files is the same (I had to build my own profile). However I also had a P9 where the dng files were fine, so it doesn't look like that providing a DNG with flat field correction is now a priority for Huawei. We are very few users shooting RAW and complaining about this, which may explain this.
I have ordered a P20 Pro Twilight and should receive it hopefully at the end of next week (knowing that the estimated delivery date was delayed muliple times...).
I will create a correction profile and share it here.
If you want to create your own, here is a good link (navigate throught the website and follow the instructions): https://sites.google.com/site/cornerfix/home
vincent2167 said:
Hi,
Look at this post where we can see the same issue with dng files for the LG G4 (until LG fixed it with the Marshmallow software update).
What's happening here is that there is no flat field correction embedded in the P20 pro dng file; when opening the dng in Lightroom for example, it's going to have strong vignetting and color cast in the corners.
I currently have a Mate 10 Pro and the issue with dng files is the same (I had to build my own profile). However I also had a P9 where the dng files were fine, so it doesn't look like that providing a DNG with flat field correction is now a priority for Huawei. We are very few users shooting RAW and complaining about this, which may explain this.
I have ordered a P20 Pro Twilight and should receive it hopefully at the end of next week (knowing that the estimated delivery date was delayed muliple times...).
I will create a correction profile and share it here.
If you want to create your own, here is a good link (navigate throught the website and follow the instructions): https://sites.google.com/site/cornerfix/home
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can u then please share with me that lens profile ? I am unable to get it right on my p20 Pro
I don't have the phone yet, but sure I will do it afterwards (hopefully by the end of the month).
I received the phone today and using my previous methodology of profile creation, I don't get satisfying results. I guess I will stick with JPEG for the moment, hoping that Huawei will fix the dng profile like LG did with the G4.
Dont worry OP, your phone is not faulty ..
Even though SONY Xperias dont support RAW, thay are a little like this too.. at the 19 or 23mpx setting... you do get a certain amount of barrel distortion towards the edges of the image.. It may be that Huawei look at this and try to do something, but it is normal at 40mpx.
One of the things I do to help this in my Street/Candid Photography with my Canon.. is try to keep your subject in the centre and as big as you can.. what goes on at the edges of your image is often just waste anyway.. also Use Tap to focus (Tap on your subject on the screen), by doing this, you set the cameras light metre to Centre Weighted, therefore setting optimal light settings, which prevents your subject being "blown out" or poorly lit in the image.. With Tiny camera sensors try to drop your horizon, so you avoid placing your subject against a bright sky or background, unless your using "Fill in" flash on the main area..
Dont forget, this phone is less than 6 weeks old and other than the NOKIA 1020, this type of Imaging sensor hasnt been done before, so Huawei/Leica might tweak the camera sensor with updates if the barrelling is that bad.. but until then.. stick with jpg if you can..
Hope that helps
Make your own correction profile in your processing software.
Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
vincent2167 said:
Hi,
Look at this post where we can see the same issue with dng files for the LG G4 (until LG fixed it with the Marshmallow software update).
What's happening here is that there is no flat field correction embedded in the P20 pro dng file; when opening the dng in Lightroom for example, it's going to have strong vignetting and color cast in the corners.
I currently have a Mate 10 Pro and the issue with dng files is the same (I had to build my own profile). However I also had a P9 where the dng files were fine, so it doesn't look like that providing a DNG with flat field correction is now a priority for Huawei. We are very few users shooting RAW and complaining about this, which may explain this.
I have ordered a P20 Pro Twilight and should receive it hopefully at the end of next week (knowing that the estimated delivery date was delayed muliple times...).
I will create a correction profile and share it here.
If you want to create your own, here is a good link (navigate throught the website and follow the instructions): https://sites.google.com/site/cornerfix/home
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally managed to create a profile that provides satisfactory results. You can download it here.
The instructions are the same than the ones provided in this post. The only difference is that under "Image Correction Options", I set up the Luminance value to 1 and Chroma value to 1.
vincent2167 said:
I finally managed to create a profile that provides satisfactory results. You can download it here.
The instructions are the same than the ones provided in this post. The only difference is that under "Image Correction Options", I set up the Luminance value to 1 and Chroma value to 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much, this works wonderfully!!! :good: The RAW files look great now and are so much easier to edit in Lightroom! That color cast was truly a nightmare!!!
Is there such a tool for Android? Or do we have to wait if Huawei will somehow correct their RAW with an update?
This is a GREAT topic!
Learned a lot.
Hi guys,
on my trip to Ireland I missed a nice feature of my old Huawei P10 where I can set a mode for long exposure photography at daylight to make water look smooth (for example). Huawei made an extra mode for this including light burst and other nice features.
On the S10 I'm missing such a thing.
With the pro mode I can set the exposure time but the photos are getting way to bright.
Does someone know how to make such long exposure pictures with the S10?
Greetings,
Jannomag
@Jannomag
What you're trying to accomplish will require 'Pro' mode.
Click on the 'Galaxy S10+ - F-Stop & Exposure.jpg' screenshot I attached.
That should allow for longer exposure; anywhere from 1/24000 to 10 seconds.
The second screenshot, Galaxy S10+ - ISO.jpg, should assist if you're looking to introduce more/less light.
I don't find the Galaxy phones great for manual photography but, using the two settings together, you'll eventually find the right balance for you.
AHE_XDA said:
@Jannomag
What you're trying to accomplish will require 'Pro' mode.
Click on the 'Galaxy S10+ - F-Stop & Exposure.jpg' screenshot I attached.
That should allow for longer exposure; anywhere from 1/24000 to 10 seconds.
The second screenshot, Galaxy S10+ - ISO.jpg, should assist if you're looking to introduce more/less light.
I don't find the Galaxy phones great for manual photography but, using the two settings together, you'll eventually find the right balance for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I mentioned it above, the photos are getting overexposed. See the example I attached. I used f1.5 with 1/4 exposure.
As an example I also attached a picture made with my wife's Huawei P20 and it's silk water mode.
Jannomag said:
As I mentioned it above, the photos are getting overexposed. See the example I attached. I used f1.5 with 1/4 exposure.
As an example I also attached a picture made with my wife's Huawei P20 and it's silk water mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm giving to provide some insight and kindly step away from this discussion.
Every hardware vendor approaches digital imaging differently. Meaning just because Huawei achieves one effect; doesn't necessarily mean Samsung isn't able to and vice-versa.
To the best of my knowledge, Samsung doesn't have a 'silky water mode' but that doesn't mean it's impossible.
For example, here is a reference image taken from a Galaxy S8 (a device from 2 years ago):
https://i.redd.it/gmmnsuguop311.png
The user in question, kiosk123, used the Samsung camera app and manually set his ISO to 50 with a 2 second exposure.
With a tripod and a similar setting, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do the same.
Here's a simple tutorial if you require more explanation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpBwaB7I4EM
AHE_XDA said:
I'm giving to provide some insight and kindly step away from this discussion.
Every hardware vendor approaches digital imaging differently. Meaning just because Huawei achieves one effect; doesn't necessarily mean Samsung isn't able to and vice-versa.
To the best of my knowledge, Samsung doesn't have a 'silky water mode' but that doesn't mean it's impossible.
For example, here is a reference image taken from a Galaxy S8 (a device from 2 years ago):
https://i.redd.it/gmmnsuguop311.png
The user in question, kiosk123, used the Samsung camera app and manually set his ISO to 50 with a 2 second exposure.
With a tripod and a similar setting, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do the same.
Here's a simple tutorial if you require more explanation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpBwaB7I4EM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On night time or low light it's possible but on daylight, the photos are getting too bright. (Look at my Attachment, where I used ISO 50 and 1/4s shutter speed with f/1.5).
I think Huawei doesn't use the shutter speed for this effect. Instead they're using a series of pictures and merge them.
An app which does this would be also great, but I couldn't find any.
Jannomag said:
On night time or low light it's possible but on daylight, the photos are getting too bright. (Look at my Attachment, where I used ISO 50 and 1/4s shutter speed with f/1.5).
I think Huawei doesn't use the shutter speed for this effect. Instead they're using a series of pictures and merge them.
An app which does this would be also great, but I couldn't find any.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try editing the picture after actual shot ? Shoot in Raw and edit using Photoshop for android or snapseed.
Manual Exposure control helps but is disbaled when using manual shutter speed after 1/10 and I dont think we can capture the effect you need
pchetan2 said:
Did you try editing the picture after actual shot ? Shoot in Raw and edit using Photoshop for android or snapseed.
Manual Exposure control helps but is disbaled when using manual shutter speed after 1/10 and I dont think we can capture the effect you need
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried to edit it, yes. But it's way too bright.
I'll try to shoot many pictures in burst mode and combine them manually on PC. It's a handy work but it should work
Jannomag said:
I tried to edit it, yes. But it's way too bright.
I'll try to shoot many pictures in burst mode and combine them manually on PC. It's a handy work but it should work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried using f2.4? Maybe it can help bringing the exposure down a little bit. Also, make sure to shoot RAW and later dial down the exposure all you can in Lightroom.
redsmith said:
Have you tried using f2.4? Maybe it can help bringing the exposure down a little bit. Also, make sure to shoot RAW and later dial down the exposure all you can in Lightroom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With f2.4 it's even e bit brighter. Also with RAW it's too bright to get back every part of the image. Some parts are completely white.
It's sad that there's no different app or that Samsung doesn't support those nice features. I used them often on my holiday trips. Also the light trail feature is quiet nice because sometimes the picture gets also too bright when shooting in cities with near street lamps.
nvm...I have to deal with it, it's sad for a 800€ phone but everything else is good.
You have to use ND filter to achieve the long exposure shot during daylight.
You're literally asking for something that doesn't work without an ND filter.
The whole point of LONG EXPOSURE is literally in the name.
You can't get "long exposure" without exposing the sensor to more and more light the longer the shutter is open.
Whatever huawei was doing isn't real long exposure during daylight because that is impossible without an ND filter over the lens.
The p20 uses software to average multiple expdures so you could so it in bright daylight. It worked really well and wish I had something similar on my s20