Hi,
Does anyone have any recommendations for a car headrest mount for the Nexus 10?
I've got the Griffin CinemaSeat mount for the iPad, and really like that style - it's quick to setup and remove, holds really firm, is low profile and the case looks like it would take a little bit of damage should the whole thing fall off the back of the car seat, but I can't find an equivalent for the Nexus.
The closest thing I can find are the Wanpool TFY fast attach and fast release ones but they look a bit suspect to me because of the sole use of velcro as the attachment mechanism that would be quite affected by whether the back of the headrest is flat or not.
The solutions with the large plastic frames don't appeal as much as they look like they'd not be as quick to put in and take out and I'm not entirely sure of the safety implications of having big lumps of plastic on the back of a car seat.
Any suggestions?
cjc.
Related
Can anyone suggest a not too expensive car mount that fits the tmo HD2? the windshield kind, not the vent kind.
NOt sure..but this is the best one!
http://www.proclipusa.com/home/home.aspx?afid=42&admkt=670ca577&gclid=CKTHtJipw6QCFUNM5Qod1Wf8iw
I found a perfect mount at compusa that is made for an iphone but works great on my HD2. can send part number if needed.
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I use the Tetrax Xway. It requires a magnet on the back of the case. I initially thought it would be annoying but I positioned it in the very middle of the phone so the phone can spin on it. I can't tell you how much enjoyment being able to spin my phone has been. With a good twirl it can spin for 2 minutes 30 seconds. I really freaked people out when Inception was big as it seemed to never stop spinning like that totem.
But the actual mount attaches to the car's AC vent which is the perfect position. The center console just seems too far away. It can be just to the right of the steering wheel.
An additional benefit is with a neodymium magnet set I got from ThinkGeek I can mount the phone anywhere that's metal. I just take four of the little cylindrical magnets and form a square with them. The phone magnet fits quite well in the divet in the middle of them. I now have a phone mount on the hood of the oven to load recipes while I cook (or watch a movie). It's quite secure, and the magnet won't hurt the phone. Just keep anything with a hard drive away like an iPod.
An interesting possibility would be to buy a cheaper clip on cover from eBay (preferably black) then buy a cheap gps mount. Then glue the case onto the mount. Then you will have an adjustable $10-15 cheap car mount
i wonder if they would make one that fits hd2 that has an otterbox case on it
I had been looking at car mounts for awhile and didn't really like the large generic mounts. While I was in Best Buy last week I saw they had these IQ Mount that works with Iphones etc that was on sale for $8.99. It also comes with 3 universal tabs so I ordered a snap-on hard (back only) case on ebay (I ordered this one that kind of went with the base and wasn't totally black, hopefully reducing the temperature) and put it on the back of this case. The universal tabs allow you to mount it either horizontally or vertically allowing you to rotate your phone by just pulling it out and putting it back in. The case doesn't block any of the buttons and is easy to take on and off since I don't like having to have the extra bulk of a case. The tabs are very small so they could be put on your existing case as well and you'd probably not notice. This mount also gives you the ability to mount it on the windshield with a suction or on the dash with a strong 3m tape. I will try to get some pictures to post on here but I am very happy with they way this turned out.
Hope this helps someone else too.
Sounds pretty neat-o to me. Too bad my miata has some weird ass vents lol. I like the idea of it being suctioned to the windshield, hard to use navigation with it in your pocket.
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Cool! Got any pictures?
I pulled the trigger on this, I'll take some pictures once I receive everything.. Not bad for $15..
where are the pics.... im interested
Excellent solution
Purchased this based on the original recommendation and it works very well in my new toyota sienna. Thanks for the recommendation.
So lately I've been trying to figure out a way to get my tablet mounted at the optimum position for GPS usage without obstructing anything. In my van I have the Arkon seat bolt tablet mount, which is perfect because it keeps the tablet lower in the dash area so it's not blocking my view or baking in the sun, and it's also a solid mount point. I'd have no where else to mount it in the van aside from the window if it wasn't for this mount, and I absolutely don't like window mounting anything bigger than a cell phone. So in that instance, things work out great. Recently I put that Arkon mount in my car, which is a Hyundai Elantra. I thought since the distance from the seat bolt to the mount area would be less, I'd have more (if anything, too much) "neck" to work with. It turned out to be the opposite. My Elantra is stick shift, so when I had the tablet mounted in the most convenient spot that reached, I was all but punching the screen when I went to 3rd/5th gear. The only other alternative was to have it sitting over in the passenger area, which works for me but it adds as a huge inconvenience to any passengers in that seat since their left knee is where the tablet is. As a result I decided to put the Arkon seat bolt mount back in the van and work on something else for the car.
I have an empty space under my head unit for random storage, etc. I began to wonder if I could somehow utilize that space for incorporating a mount there. It would be the perfect height because it's higher up from the gear shift and it would definitely be optimum viewing for GPS usage. Originally I made the perfectly sized wooden block that had a slight slight slope to it so it would wedge itself in place. I then epoxy'd a BluRex Amazon case to it that I wasn't too happy with and was no longer using. This proved to be an awesome 10 minute mount, but it also gave me zero adjustability. I began to think was going to be important since last time we were on a road trip when the road I was on was going to be 3 hours long my wife watched a movie, so I knew I'd want a way to move it around for best viewing in multiple scenarios.
Here's two pictures from that build:
http://i.imgur.com/dsfQx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/guw86.jpg
I began to give it more thought. I knew that the empty space under my head unit was going to be the mount point, but I just had to figure out how. I searched through multiple mounts, particularly from Arkon. In the end I bought this mount on eBay for about 20 bucks. It came with a suction cup which I knew wouldn't work for my uses. My plan was to cut the arm off, drill a hole into a wooden block, then fill it with epoxy and shove the arm in. The block of wood in question would be a piece that I cut to perfectly fit the open slot under my deck with a slight slant to it, that way as I pushed it in, it wedged itself in place (much like the last mount)
When I got this mount from eBay I began to wonder if I even needed to cut the arm off. Fortunately the height of the suction cup base was ALMOST the height of the opening in my dash. I figured all I had to do was wedge that in place and I wouldn't have to do the whole sha-bang with the wooden block and epoxy. I ended up cutting off the suction cup since it was useless in my case. The bottom of the plastic suction cup area had some flat ridges, so I figured I'd use double sided tape instead of epoxy to adhere it to a flat piece of wood. The flat piece of wood was to bump the thickness up just enough to replace the need for that wooden wedge.
http://i.imgur.com/yHOLR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/l9mRO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/O4Gin.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KFJad.jpg
In the last picture you can see that I flipped things around. Originally I had the arm facing downward, but when I had the tablet mounted, 5th gear was still a problem as the gear shift would nearly hit the tablet. I knew if I flipped it upside down the arm would be facing upward, giving me some height... so I re-did the tape and put it on the other side. Since I mounted it more to the right (to ensure there was a super low chance of the steering wheel ever obstructing view, even if I was leaning far to the left while driving) I sensed a small amount of uneven stability since there was nothing keeping the left side tight against the roof of the opening. A small wooden wedge later and we were golden.
http://i.imgur.com/t7v4P.jpg
I ended up painting that wooden piece black to blend it in a little bit. I also noticed while driving that some roads had a degree of ripple to them, which would cause the tablet to sway back and forth. It didn't obstruct my view-ability of the screen at all, but if I was in an area where the tablet was casting a glare from the screen it became more obvious. On a hunch I pulled out two quarters and slid them under the arm mount, which is where I thought I was seeing a degree of flexing. Surprisingly it helped quite a bit and that area no longer has any flex. Not bad.
http://i.imgur.com/gzcV0.jpg
Final product:
http://i.imgur.com/LoUZT.jpg
Hopefully those of you out there who are finding some tablet mounts are *almost* perfect but not a home run can utilize some sort of DIY ideas like I did to make it work. I now have a solid mount for both vehicles, so no more worries about where the tablet will sit, etc. No complaints there. :good:
Great mod! I too have a compartment like that when I replaced my factory double din to a single din radio. To compensate, I had to put in a CD holder type opening, much like your area. I just have slots for CD cases. In my case, it wouldn't work out too well because my opening is held by epoxy and because of the texas heat, loses it's adhesiveness big time and alas, too weak for N7.
I have since bought a Kropsson Aero, which can hold both my tablet and Sensation. I do wish someone made a mount that can fit like the Aero can. Oh well, sorry to detract, just wanted to give you some kudos in getting a mount that works for you! :good:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
JaSauders said:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
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Click to collapse
I just got the Aero in actually. It doesn't fit the N7 with my Seidio Case installed. So it's a fail on my end. It fits my Sensation fine, but thats a given lol.
As for the surface areas, I think you are correct that maybe the surface I am trying to apoxy to (on the car) does not play well/adhere with the epoxy I put on. No biggie though. I wanted something off the dash anyways. I may just get the exogear/kropsson mounts eventually...
EDIT: semi DIY modding LOL...
Just getting back, regarding the Kropsson Aero. Because of the Seidio case making the N7 bigger than expected to fit in the Kropsson Aero, I decided to cut down the foam pads on the sides. Now the N7 fits! The said arms are maxed out, but I will try it in the car after work. I took pics, but my work computer is borking at the card reader. But I'll try to upload them at home if I have time ( I have a 4 yr old to contend with lol).
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
xxgoosexx said:
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
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Click to collapse
I have that same disk that came with my tomtom gps that I never used. But it works! I have it installed and holds the arkon mount fine without issues.
ydoucare said:
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
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Click to collapse
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
JaSauders said:
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't, I'll try to grab one and post it here.
So I had a burning desire to mount my Nexus 7 in my car (2008 Dodge Charger) for some time. But all of the docks/mounts out right now either use suction cups, are bulky, or block significant portions of the head unit in the vehicle already.
This has been a bit of an obsession, trying to find something that would work the way I wanted it to. I had a vehicle specific bracket that I used for my Sirius radio a few years ago. It has holes drilled for the AMPS universal mounting pattern. This is what I decided to utilize at this time. Just a few pics and links for now until I get some better pictures later.
AMPS T-Bracket
Arkon Slim Grip. I actually used the one that came with my ARKON Windshield mount, but I'm pretty sure they're the same thing.
This vehicle specific bracket was from Bracketron, however, it was purchased 3 or 4 years ago, so I don't believe it is made any longer. I couldn't find it on their website. However, a few other companies make vehicle specific brackets, and Panavise was on the ones I found with a quick search. I like the AMPS mounting system because it's fairly modular. Stay away from the RAM mounts, even though they make some very excellent products, they generally use proprietary accessories for their mounts.
LINKS
Arkon Slim-Grip Holder (I purchased the Windshield mount, but it's the same holder, I believe)
http://www.amazon.com/Arkon-Slim-Gr...ckaging/dp/tech-data/B0056G142G/ref=de_a_smtd
Arkon VSM AMPS adapter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BA503Y/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
I also use the Belkin BT adapter for playback of music. It's pretty much awful for anything besides phone calls.
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Blueto...&keywords=belkin+bluetooth+car+hands-free+kit
I'll update later on.
nice
it is nice what you have done.
I have the exact same car dodge charger 2008 SE and I would like to know how I can remove the factory stereo that comes with the car ( same as the one you have in the pictures) and put the nexus 7 in its place.
if anyone had done this kind of project please send me the details on how to do it
Very cool and nice setup you have there although it seems like if you have a passenger in the car with you their view of the screen wouldn't be so good since it's on an angle.
One thing I'd like to know is though, is that bracket permanently attached to the car or is it just a matter of sliding in and sliding out that bracket that is between the crack there?
jonnyg1097 said:
Very cool and nice setup you have there although it seems like if you have a passenger in the car with you their view of the screen wouldn't be so good since it's on an angle.
One thing I'd like to know is though, is that bracket permanently attached to the car or is it just a matter of sliding in and sliding out that bracket that is between the crack there?
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Thank you. I do have passengers that ride with me, but 90% of the time it's just me traveling for work. I didn't do this with them in mind. lol. However one modification I'll likely be doing to it is adding tilt/swivel adjust. Had it originally planned, but haven't found my solution yet.
The bracket is affixed to the car with the screws in the radio bezel. This makes it much more sturdy.
This isn't the same exact bracket as mine, but it's a similar one from Panavise. It uses the same screws.
I was thinking of using the phone when cycling to track my route and so that I can see my position. I will not be going off-track often and I don't expect to be falling off the bike often . Could you recommend some good case? Thanks
I'm using this one for the past 2 years and it's really great:
http://www.topeak.com/products/bags/smartphone_drybag_5_wt
It hosted my Nexus 4, then my Z1C and now my Z3C . The great thing is that it has a clip on the back that you can attach to the regular clothes too, so I can use it also if I go hiking or rowing.
You will have to use a bluetooth adapter during those times because the phone will be enclosed 100%.
super cheap yet very solid and functional:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Phone-H...896?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa4bf55a8
I'm a bike commuter and like to have my phone on my handlebars every day either as speedometer, clock or music player. I've used a number of different mounts with varying degrees of success.
Right now, I'm a huge fan of QuadLock (quad lock case dot com) . For the Z3c, you'd need to get a secure 3rd party case case (not sure which would be the most secure, maybe the Ringke Fusion? or Terrapin? I dunno), then get the Bike Kit which includes the bike mount and the universal adapter. I've used this setup with three different phone/case combo's thus far and each has been rock solid.
I can't comment on the earlier poster's ebay mount, but I can offer some advantages of the Quadlock over the Topeak bag. A huge benefit of the Topeak is that it's a dry bag, protecting your phone from the elements. But, that's not a concern with the Z3c since it's water/dust proof. And, the downside of the Topeak is that it can overheat, they warn about this on the Topeak site, and I've experienced it with other enclosed mounts. Also, with the Quadlock, you will still have access to charging (depending on your case) either from a battery pack or a hub gen if you have one - I've done both.
The downside of the Quadlock is that it's $40 USD. But, being the most reliable one I've tried thus far, I don't have a problem with that cost.
HTH,
Jack
Hey Jack, I'd like to get your opinions after using Quadlock after a year. I'm looking for most robust option. Quadlock has dedicated products for iPhones and some other devices but they recommended universal adaptor for Z3C. But I don't trust the adhesive that will be mounted on Z3C case. Have you had any issues with this? I suppose you have used Universal adaptor as well.
I can also buy a more up-to-date and compatible product that supports charging while using the device. I have a Roswheel front bag on frame for Z3C. Basically I'm not happy with using it. But I can use it to house my charger and from there an extension of charging cable to Phone at handlebar could do the trick. What do you think? Of course this is a rare case scenario. I'm not a great fan of cycling. Only joining weekend activities. Usually they take only 70 miles.
I would also appreciate a little update. I also have something similar to the bag mount. Quadlock looks really cool, but I can't justify the price.
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
If your headset stem is square-section, the easiest way to mount your phone is with a simple loop of elastic. Starting with the loop under the stem, pull up loops along the left and right sides of the stem. Then thread your phone through those loops so it's sitting on top of your stem. Our phones are waterproof, so no need for a case. They also have those tiny wrist-band strap holes at the bottom which you can use to make a secure back-up to stop the phone hitting the floor if the elastic fails.
I cycled across Europe like this last summer - absolutely perfect tool for the job.