I'd like to open my TP for a screen repair. But all guides for "how to open" says that there are 7 clips holding the front case, and at the point you open the TP they will break. Does anybody opened the TP without broken it? If yes, please share it.
Thanks
giolc90 said:
I'd like to open my TP for a screen repair. But all guides for "how to open" says that there are 7 clips holding the front case, and at the point you open the TP they will break. Does anybody opened the TP without broken it? If yes, please share it.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google "HP Touchpad tear down"
He jumps the open part...
Have you Tried Fixit dot com
I have been tempted many times to open my TP just out of curiosity. I used the site ifixit and did a search for HP Touchpad to learn how to open and repair other tablets. Check it and see if it helps.
BushDude said:
I have been tempted many times to open my TP just out of curiosity. I used the site ifixit and did a search for HP Touchpad to learn how to open and repair other tablets. Check it and see if it helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have broken no clip?
Go Slow
Unfortunately, I broke 2 tabs on my first Xbox disassemble but I have done tear downs on:
HP Netbooks,
24" iMac,
2 LePan tc970 tablets (first time I accidentally separated the screen instead of the back casing),
various phones
and a bunch of Xboxes.
The key is to go slow. I also found that an old credit card works great as a "spudger" to help pry open the devices. The most important part is to go slow and take your time.
My philosophy is if its broke the worst that could happen is it will be in the state when I finish with it, "BROKE".
Yes, it is possible to disassemble the Touchpad without breaking the clips.
I will provide more info this weekend.
jcsullins said:
Yes, it is possible to disassemble the Touchpad without breaking the clips.
I will provide more info this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you got more info? I've opened my touchpad once before and snapped pretty much all the clips off, I've glued them back on, but need to open it again, be easier if I could do it without breaking them off again.
theronkinator said:
Have you got more info? I've opened my touchpad once before and snapped pretty much all the clips off, I've glued them back on, but need to open it again, be easier if I could do it without breaking them off again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if the clips will behave the same after being glued back on, but here's some notes I put together:
Here are some notes on how to reduce the chance of breaking the clips
as you take apart the HP Touchpad while following the ifixit.com
instructions.
The pictures referenced are from:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/HP+TouchPad+USB+Connector+Board+Replacement/6077
Pic#1 means pic from step #1. Pic#2 means pic from step #2. Etc.
You should click "View Original" or "View Huge" and then zoom in
as much as possible.
Recognizing the Clips and their Locations
Pic#1 shows 7 clips (with red boxes around them). However,
there are really 8 clips. If you look at the top right corner, you'll
see a clip (in red box) and then an orange box below it. The missing
clip is a little below this orange box (notice the notch on the PCB
where the missing clip is located).
In Pic#2, the corner closest to you is the top right corner
from Pic#1. Looking just left of the corner edge, you will see a clip
that is still clipped to the display assembly (this is the same clip
in the top right corner from Pic#1). The spludger in Pic#2 is where
the missing clip is located (you can see that that clip is no longer
clipped to the display assembly). You can also barely see a clip
still attached where the right thumb is located.
In Pic#3, the corner closest to you is the top right corner from Pic#1.
You can clearly see three clips still clipped to the display assembly
in this pic. One just to the left of the corner and two to the right
of the sludger. Note that you should not try to raise the display assembly
this high with the spludger until all the clips have been released.
In Pic#4, the corner closest to you is the top left corner from Pic#1.
In this pic, you can see four clip locations: two with clips attached
and two without clips attached. On the side with the spludger, you can
see the two clip locations without any clips. One of those is just to
the left of the spludger and the other is to the right of the spludger
just left of the camera window (circle on face of display). On the side
with the left thumb, you can see the two clips still attached to the
display assembly (note that these clips are probably already broken
from the back case by trying to raise the display assembly this high
without unclipping all the clips). One of these clips is just under the left
thumb and the other is in the far top left of the pic. NOTE: YOU SHOULD
NOT USE THE SPLUDGER (OR ANY OTHER TOOL) IN THIS CORNER (anywhere
between the two closest clip locations you see in the pic).
In Pic#5, the corner closest to you is the bottom right corner from Pic#1.
Between this corner and the home button location, you can see two notches
in the display assembly for clips (however, there are no clips in these
two locations). Between the home button and the far corner (in top right
of this pic), you can see the location of the missing clip #8 (with no
clip attached). In the far corner, you can see a clip still attached.
In Pic#6, the corner closest to you is the top right corner from Pic#1.
You can see two clips in this pic. The one to the right of the corner
has clearly been broken from the back case; you don't want to see this!
The other is being (very crudely) unclipped from the display assembly
with the spludger.
Note that these pics are for reference only. You should not be pulling
the display assembly as far up as they do in these pics (that's how
you break the clips).
Unclipping the Clips
You want to pull the display assembly up *just enough* (nowhere near
as much as they do in these pics) so that you can unclip the clips.
Use the spludger next to the clip location, but make sure to avoid
locations with the orange boxes, etc. In Pic#6, you can see how you
need to move the clip to unclip it. However, we don't want to raise
the display assembly as much as they do to get the spludger
in behind the clip (as shown in Pic#6). Instead, we want to insert
something (thin flexible spludger, firm guitar pic, very small flat
screwdriver, etc) just above the clip and pry it out of the "box"
that it's clipped into. As you unclip the clips, some of them may
reclip as you work on the others, so make sure to go back and check
them before trying to pull the display assembly up very far.
Make sure to only raise the display assembly just enough so that
you can access the clips enough to pull/pry them out of the "box"
that they are clipped into. Those "boxes" are part of the display
assembly.
Be patient. Take your time.
jcsullins said:
Not sure if the clips will behave the same after being glued back on, but here's some notes I put together:
Here are some notes on how to reduce the chance of breaking the clips
as you take apart the HP Touchpad while following the ifixit.com
instructions.
The pictures referenced are from:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/HP+TouchPad+USB+Connector+Board+Replacement/6077
Pic#1 means pic from step #1. Pic#2 means pic from step #2. Etc.
You should click "View Original" or "View Huge" and then zoom in
as much as possible.
Recognizing the Clips and their Locations
Pic#1 shows 7 clips (with red boxes around them). However,
there are really 8 clips. If you look at the top right corner, you'll
see a clip (in red box) and then an orange box below it. The missing
clip is a little below this orange box (notice the notch on the PCB
where the missing clip is located).
In Pic#2, the corner closest to you is the top right corner
from Pic#1. Looking just left of the corner edge, you will see a clip
that is still clipped to the display assembly (this is the same clip
in the top right corner from Pic#1). The spludger in Pic#2 is where
the missing clip is located (you can see that that clip is no longer
clipped to the display assembly). You can also barely see a clip
still attached where the right thumb is located.
In Pic#3, the corner closest to you is the top right corner from Pic#1.
You can clearly see three clips still clipped to the display assembly
in this pic. One just to the left of the corner and two to the right
of the sludger. Note that you should not try to raise the display assembly
this high with the spludger until all the clips have been released.
In Pic#4, the corner closest to you is the top left corner from Pic#1.
In this pic, you can see four clip locations: two with clips attached
and two without clips attached. On the side with the spludger, you can
see the two clip locations without any clips. One of those is just to
the left of the spludger and the other is to the right of the spludger
just left of the camera window (circle on face of display). On the side
with the left thumb, you can see the two clips still attached to the
display assembly (note that these clips are probably already broken
from the back case by trying to raise the display assembly this high
without unclipping all the clips). One of these clips is just under the left
thumb and the other is in the far top left of the pic. NOTE: YOU SHOULD
NOT USE THE SPLUDGER (OR ANY OTHER TOOL) IN THIS CORNER (anywhere
between the two closest clip locations you see in the pic).
In Pic#5, the corner closest to you is the bottom right corner from Pic#1.
Between this corner and the home button location, you can see two notches
in the display assembly for clips (however, there are no clips in these
two locations). Between the home button and the far corner (in top right
of this pic), you can see the location of the missing clip #8 (with no
clip attached). In the far corner, you can see a clip still attached.
In Pic#6, the corner closest to you is the top right corner from Pic#1.
You can see two clips in this pic. The one to the right of the corner
has clearly been broken from the back case; you don't want to see this!
The other is being (very crudely) unclipped from the display assembly
with the spludger.
Note that these pics are for reference only. You should not be pulling
the display assembly as far up as they do in these pics (that's how
you break the clips).
Unclipping the Clips
You want to pull the display assembly up *just enough* (nowhere near
as much as they do in these pics) so that you can unclip the clips.
Use the spludger next to the clip location, but make sure to avoid
locations with the orange boxes, etc. In Pic#6, you can see how you
need to move the clip to unclip it. However, we don't want to raise
the display assembly as much as they do to get the spludger
in behind the clip (as shown in Pic#6). Instead, we want to insert
something (thin flexible spludger, firm guitar pic, very small flat
screwdriver, etc) just above the clip and pry it out of the "box"
that it's clipped into. As you unclip the clips, some of them may
reclip as you work on the others, so make sure to go back and check
them before trying to pull the display assembly up very far.
Make sure to only raise the display assembly just enough so that
you can access the clips enough to pull/pry them out of the "box"
that they are clipped into. Those "boxes" are part of the display
assembly.
Be patient. Take your time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really excellent explanation! There is no guide in how to do that, this way. I'll try in this weekend.
Thank you very much!
every thing is working good but i lost touch sensitivity on three side .like i am not able press back button coner is there any thing solve this i have successfully opened tp
vinukondamahesh said:
every thing is working good but i lost touch sensitivity on three side .like i am not able press back button coner is there any thing solve this i have successfully opened tp
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coming from the display assembly are two cables. The ribbon cable that splits and connects to two connectors at the same spot is the touchscreen cable. Make sure that both of those are fully seated and square.
i cant touch that cable again it took me 5hr to make it ok it showed me so many colours that i never seen in the screen
I snapped all the side clips off mine, seems to hold ok with just the top and bottom clips though, screen feels a bit spongy to the touch, but don't think it's in danger of coming apart.
The good thing is I actually have a touchpad with working wifi so I might actually use it now.
Related
Been very happy with the Kaiser so far, including on the GPS front ;-) but I'm getting slightly annoyed by two hardware nits :
1. wobbly : in portrait mode when I tap on the screen the right side tends to "hit" the keyboard part underneath and looking closely it's easy to understand why, there is a tiny gap between the two parts, likely for the slide/tilt mechanism
2. sloped : when I pull out the keyboard, the right side of the screen goes out more than the left side so it is slightly sloped. It improved a bit when folding the screen. Again I think this is a constraint of the slide/tilt mechanism
I'm thinking it's a general quirk because I had to change my first model (stuck key) and it had the same problems.
Anyone else noticed that ?
in portrait mode my kaiser seems to be spaced the same all the way around and doesnt push on the keyboard when tapping the screen. I do notice what you mean by the keyboard appearing to be farther out on the right side but after taking a closer look it just seems that way because of the face plate not being uniform all the way down (part where it flares out on the left side). Mine is exactly pushed out on both sides.
Lavachild said:
in portrait mode my kaiser seems to be spaced the same all the way around and doesnt push on the keyboard when tapping the screen. I do notice what you mean by the keyboard appearing to be farther out on the right side but after taking a closer look it just seems that way because of the face plate not being uniform all the way down (part where it flares out on the left side). Mine is exactly pushed out on both sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine's the same as this. It sounds like yours may not be quite right and I'd consider getting a replacement. Of course, if you can live with it, and the functionality is all there then it's entirely up to you.
For the sloping I've had two and they were both the same, so it's probably a design constraint, no biggie.
For the "wobbling", it comes and goes, I can only really feel the "knocks" when I hold the left side tight and tap on the scroll bar on the right, again, no biggie.
solution
iv had the same problem of one end sticking out,
iv gone around it by inserting some tiny smugged paper into the sliding slots at the back, resolves the issue quite well.
I don't seem to have either problem (TyTN II version).
I bought a used HD2 which is missing screws. The screen is popping off slightly from the phone body in several locations. Every time I press on it it pops back into place and then pops back out when I let go.
I took off the battery cover and at least 2 screws are missing. One in the top right hand corner and one in the lower left hand corner. Of the two screws still there, one is a regular philips head and the other is a security hex (is this normal?) The seller said they had taken it to a cellular repair place to fix a problem with the phone getting stuck at the unlock screen. I believe they misplaced the screws.
Is there anywhere I can buy a replacement set? Will I have to disassemble the phone further to fix the screen popping out?
Thanks!
UPDATE: After watching a video of HD2 assembly which I cannot link to because I a "new user" I believe the P/N of the screws I need is 72H03652-XXM.
No one knows? I can't believe the screws are unique to the HD2.
The washer fix resolved the screen lift issue for many, however I've noticed that something doesn't quite add up. Using the washer fix mysteriously resolves(or partially) the issue of a springy/spongy left screen and the creaks and popping noise. The theory was that the screws was too long and tightened too far with the ends of the screws pushing the glass screen out and pulling the plastic silver bezel back.
There isn't a reason to why the springy screen or strange noises was fixed and neither a reason to what the cause was. Besides resolving those issues some people found it hard to push the back cover back on and still have bulging back covers and also bulging silver bezel. You might get away with this issue by putting washers on the two centre screws and taking out the washer on the top part of the screen. I believe this worked because the height of the screws gets elevated with the washers and pushes against the back cover and denting and marking it in some cases. If you managed pop the cover back on the increased pressure from the screws makes the plastic tabs pull on the silver bezel and warping it (maybe).
I thought maybe the culpit of the screen lift might not simply be long screws. But I didn't understand how the washers fixed it. After looking at iFixit teardown pictures I saw something else that could push down on the LCD unit and onto the screen. On the second picture of step 12 I can see large cut outs in the metal frame and on the back side of the motherboard I can see taped components. I thought it might be possible that the taping left creases and air bubbles on the pcb and the bulging of the taped components looks like it can press on to the LCD unit directly underneath. The cause of the popping noise and sponginess came clear to me now. The popping noise comes from the tape being pressed against it (it could be glue from the screen/bezel too) and the sponginess is probably the PCB bending .
I think what the washers did was lifting both the metal frame and the pcb up and the taped components underneath didn't press against the LCD unit anymore. This created screw elevation for some people and back covers can't fit back easily as I mentioned.
I didn't want any screen lift, bulging back cover/bezel. I thought maybe I can lift the pcb up without putting washers in and I thought of just wedging the pcb against the metal frame right next to the screws. I don't recommend anyone to just try jamming stuff underneath the pcb without checking out the pictures and have a plan first. There are components underneath and please don't push anything too far in. I've tried putting plastic blister underneath the pcb in between 4 screws and next to the 4 pin connector. They are just longer rectangles by the way and I trimmed the ends in the same way as the washer method. However the screen still bulges a little around the centre where I can't put wedges because of the ribbon cable. The bulging back cover problem is completely gone however. I think I will try to put one washer for the screw above the ribbon cable, because I can see that the pcb has a screw hole right under the ribbon cable near that screw. This should lift the pcb a little around the centre. However I'm going to put a thinner washer as I don't want the screw to get elevated too much.
Anyone thinks this theory is rubbish, or have something to add?
EDIT: I report success! Instead of typing out the same thing I will show you with pictures. No idea if this fix will last, no guarantees. I still have a little sideways bulge but my N7 is so close to being perfect now. I don't think I will change anything else for now.
it's from that black foamy piece in your photo....this was mentioned in one of the other threads....
I posted this in this thread, but I also wanted to post here to get feedback (agree/disagree) from others seeing the screen lift issue.
I've tried a few of the suggested fixes (shim, screw loosen/tighten, remove sponge, reheat glue) to fix my screen lift but the lift keeps coming back. On my device I can see a pronounced warp down the left hand side. Visible on both the screen frame and the plastic back case.
Removing the back case I see it warped on the left but straight on the right. I wonder if this is in fact the root cause of the lift. The warped case is applying force to the left side and the screen can't help but lift.
I've attached pictures to illustrate the issue. You can see (by the color of my fingertip) the amount of force I have to apply to press the left side flat. I think this is why the fixes are all temporary. The warped case will eventually win out against all fix attempts.
I actually don't want to RMA my device. I frankly can't be bothered to. However, if Google wants to send me a new back cover I'd happily accept it. I would imagine, though, that procedurally this would be problematic... you don't want customers taking the devices apart, it's unlikely they have cases lying about, and they have an RMA process in place that most likely is triggered by a clicking a single button on a form (least fuss).
Is anyone else seeing this warping?
The pictures I've attached show:
Looking down the left edge - you can clearly see the warp.
Looking down the right edge - no warp.
Side on of the left edge.
Side on of the right edge.
The left edge before and after pressing down with my finger.
I use my x4 since october and today I discovered it isn't 100% flat. When I put the phone screen down on the table I can fell little moves on opposite corners. I carry my phone in the front pocket and try not to make any pressure on it. I do not overheat my phone either. I can not see any bent on sides, it looks fine. Anyone having this issue too?
I haven't taken my phone out of the box yet but it could be from the camera 'bump' in the middle.
dougo007 said:
I haven't taken my phone out of the box yet but it could be from the camera 'bump' in the middle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"Flat" laying on screen. When you put your phone screen down and can't feel any moves, phone doesn't "swing" when you press any of its corners.