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I've searched the HD2 accessories forum and found some inklings of the question I'm asking, but none that quite hit at the heart of the matter. So, my question is this:
Does the HD2 (TMO US) send line audio out through the micro-USB port? I would assume it does, since the dock HTC sells for the HD2 has a 3.5mm jack in back, and it only plugs into the phone via micro-USB.
And my follow-on question would be, if the HD2 does indeed have line audio in the micro-USB port, does anyone know of an actual splitter accessory that splits out line audio and USB charging? I saw this device at AndroidCentral.com's store (sorry, my new account doesn't allow external links) (htc-3-in-1-usb-adapter/5A18A3571.htm) in another thread. But since it's mini-USB and HTC claims it only works for the phones specified, does that mean a gender changer (Daydeal.com, Product ID 31355) wouldn't work with it? Thanks for any info/experiences you folks have!
No one has any info for me?
I browsed around to see if i found anything on this also but i don't think it's possible since it's not a A/V port of any sort. as far as your second Q: The splitter would only be that; something to add additional port's on the device. ie: Since it's connected thru the Micro-sub and the splitter has a mini(assuming)-usb port, it can therefore be charged, Also add's an extra audio jack. (just examples)
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks for the response. It may be that the HD2 by itself may not have line audio or any video out signal tied to the micro-USB port, but just the fact that that splitter exists for earlier HTC phones' mini-USB ports gives me hope that the line audio pin out is there. I mean, I'm not an electronics wiz by any stretch, but I think mini and micro USB only require 2 pins for power, right? And there's at least 4 pins there on a micro port.
The older HTC phones used the mini-USB compatible extUSB interface-where the top portion of the connector did the duty as the USB interface and the bottom portion of the connector was the audio interface. Between everyone hating to have a dongle to the emergence of microUSB as the industry standard put extUSB on the road to extinction.
ref: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extusb#Proprietary_connectors_and_formats
Thanks for that. Makes sense, since they decided (for some stupid reason) to not add a 3.5 mm headphone jack to those phones. But what doesn't make sense is how they can give these newer phones great hardware, and tout their multimedia capabilities, and yet not add a functionality that Apple has had built in since their first iPhone. That's the main reason I still use it: because I don't want to carry two devices around.
Any workarounds for a voip app and microphone for a rooted book color?
the cool guys that know what they are doing are working on bluetooth, that seems to be the best bet to getting a microphone working with NC, cross your fingers!
what about a wired headset with a built in mic. does the nook have the connections to support this?
I think the two best options right now for voice applications are probably the Bluetooth and the slight possibility that the micro-USB port on the Nook seems to have quite a few extra pins on it, which may have left B&N open to a proprietary connector that would allow for additional device connectivity via the micro-USB port.
I've purchased a number of micro-USB adapters in order to plug various devices into the micro-USB port of the NC, with zero success (keyboards, USB headsets, mice, etc). Clearly that port isn't currently operating in that manner, and I'm sure there's a tech savy person that could drop in and give us a simple answer to why this is.
I was also curious about the headphone port possibly have mic capabilities, and was about to purchase a single post headset to test the theory, but then I took a (very unscientific) look at the headphones jack, and it would appear that there aren't enough ring connectors inside it to support an additional channel. Obviously the guys doing the tear-down would know far more about this than myself.
We'll see what turns up over the coming months.
Found this teardown post with spec list and it says that there is no mic input in the headphone jack. I know I read another teardown post which I cannot find that indicated the same thing. I agree that our best bet may be getting the bluetooth working.
KryptoNyte39 said:
I've purchased a number of micro-USB adapters in order to plug various devices into the micro-USB port of the NC, with zero success (keyboards, USB headsets, mice, etc). Clearly that port isn't currently operating in that manner, and I'm sure there's a tech savy person that could drop in and give us a simple answer to why this is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you detail what sort of adapters you tried? Have you tried a gender changer (type a-a female-female) on the end of the nook cord attached to a keyboard?
Someone correct me if I am wrong but, in order for the usb to do something other than just charge and connect to the PC from the usb, you would have to activate USB host, which is not turned on in stock. Hence no of the fancy toys will work. There are a lot of funky pins on the connector so it may have to be some funky adapter, assuming you get usb host running. There are a lot of hackery potential, but until that project is completed, the wait for bluetooth continues.
Go Occip! (the guy hacking the bluetooth.)
Mike
This is what I've been thinking about. I don't have the ability to figure out how to activate the USB Host function, but I read several posts about how it worked on N1, D1, and Hero.
The thing I want to try is using a micro USB to 3.5mm minijack cable like those that came with the G1. It's the only thing I could think of that could logically be supported by the default system since it was necessary in 1.5 on that device.
I don't think anyone is using VOIP yet, but you may be very interested in this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=989637
I'm running the CM7 image via SD card from that thread, and the Bluetooth works, and I can connect to my phone and my headset. Several people can connect to their standalone GPS units. Worth watching.
Anyone know if the micro USB port is even powered?
On a lot of phones, the USB connectors aren't powered by the device (like my HD2), so you have to hack together a proper setup that supplies power.
Didn't know we had our own thread now.
Anyways so I've been trying to hook my active up to my monitor -- an ASUS VX238H -- and I finally got the correct MHL to HDMI adapter, but I still can't get it to work and I've tried three different HDMI cables. With this Sypder C Class cable and this Belkin cable I have the phone would detect being plugged up to the HDMI, but the monitor wouldn't recognize it, and with this off brand cable when I plug it in my monitor goes black (and it has two HDMI inputs with my computer plugged into HDMI1 and the phone plugged into HDMI2). Is there a specific cable I need or perhaps cables without a specific feature (such as Ethernet)?
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
dibeachdude said:
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I read that was only needed for wireless connections and that HDMI connections didn't need that. Guess I'll give it a shot after work and see if that is the issue, but still I don't understand why the one cable would cause my monitor to go black despite me not having selected the HDMI2 input...
I have a cable left over from my Motorola Atrix 4G. I will give it a try tonight to see if I get any better results.
dibeachdude said:
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I tried enabling Screen Mirroring but it told me to disconnect the HDMI cable first. Guess I'll just have to wait till I get paid again and get a different HDMI cable to try with (one without Ethernet) and see if I have better results.
I was reading an article from pcmag about screen mirroring (Google "How to Connect Your Samsung Galaxy S 4 to Your TV"). It said something about using a specific MHL to HDMI connector and then connecting a separate HDMI cable and a power cable. I'm not sure why you would need all of the extra cables, especially the power cable. I would think that the digital audio and video signals would be low enough power that it would use less power than the backlight. Maybe there is something specific about the pinout of the Samsung USB that requires that particular cable. If I get a chance to try my other cable tonight, I will post the results. Good luck.
dibeachdude said:
I was reading an article from pcmag about screen mirroring (Google "How to Connect Your Samsung Galaxy S 4 to Your TV"). It said something about using a specific MHL to HDMI connector and then connecting a separate HDMI cable and a power cable. I'm not sure why you would need all of the extra cables, especially the power cable. I would think that the digital audio and video signals would be low enough power that it would use less power than the backlight. Maybe there is something specific about the pinout of the Samsung USB that requires that particular cable. If I get a chance to try my other cable tonight, I will post the results. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had posted in the S4 QA section there are two different types of MHL-HDMI adapters.
A 5-pin variation for the older generation of phones like the S2 and the Infuse.
A 11-pin variation for the newer generation of phones like the S3 and S4.
The adapter does need some power to power it since it is an electronic device but not much. The rest of the power that's not used by the adapter is used to charge the phone.
I initially bought a 5-pin adapter because I didn't research enough before hand (it was a bit of an impulse buy) and so I didn't know there were two different types. I then bought an official Samsung MHL-HDMI 11-pin adpater which is what I've been using now.
I really think the issue is with the cables I'm trying to use so when I do get paid again I'm going to buy a HDMI cable with just the base A/V transfer and see if that works.
Please ignore what I said altogether. I assumed that I had a cable from my previous phone that would work for HDMI, but the cable that I have isn't even a USB connector. It has a completely different plug on it. I never used it on my last phone, and I didn't even remember the phone having two different plugs. Now, I am wanting to get the proper cable and try it. I have always thought that it would be cool to run XBMC on my phone.
Found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-MHL-To-HDTV-Smart-Adapter-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S-III-EPL-3FHUBEGSTA-/261233789076?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3cd2bf4894
I will post my results when it comes in.
dibeachdude said:
Please ignore what I said altogether. I assumed that I had a cable from my previous phone that would work for HDMI, but the cable that I have isn't even a USB connector. The one that I have is an entirely different interface. I never used it on my last phone, and I didn't even remember the phone having two different plugs. Now, I am wanting to the proper cable and try it. I have always that the it would be cool to run XBMC on my phone.
Found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-MHL-To-HDTV-Smart-Adapter-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S-III-EPL-3FHUBEGSTA-/261233789076?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3cd2bf4894
I will post my results when it comes in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the one I have now.
My cable came in today, and it works perfectly. It is the original Samsung (EPL-3FHUBEGSTA) MHL to HDMI cable. I noticed that they raised the price on ebay by $5.00. They can still be found for around $11 or $12 though. All I did was plug mine in to the phone, the power cable, and HDMI, and then, I selected "Screen Mirroring" in settings. The problem may be with you monitor. I have seen some monitors that do not connect with certain HDMI devices. I think it has something to do with supporting 1080i vs 1080p. I've never been able to test the theory, but at work we have a large plasma TV that very few devices (almost none) will connect to. I have found a few other, usually smaller, monitors that seem to do the same thing. Good luck.
dibeachdude said:
My cable came in today, and it works perfectly. It is the original Samsung (EPL-3FHUBEGSTA) MHL to HDMI cable. I noticed that they raised the price on ebay by $5.00. They can still be found for around $11 or $12 though. All I did was plug mine in to the phone, the power cable, and HDMI, and then, I selected "Screen Mirroring" in settings. The problem may be with you monitor. I have seen some monitors that do not connect with certain HDMI devices. I think it has something to do with supporting 1080i vs 1080p. I've never been able to test the theory, but at work we have a large plasma TV that very few devices (almost none) will connect to. I have found a few other, usually smaller, monitors that seem to do the same thing. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using a HDMI cable with Ethernet or just an A/V HDMI cable? All the HDMI cables I have have Ethernet except maybe my 360 HDMI cable. I'm going to order this other cable online and try with that and if it doesn't work then I'm just going to assume my monitor is like what you said. Just a fyi it's supposed to support 1080p.
Ok just thought I'd provide an update. I got the Belkin A/V (no Ethernet) cable in today and it too didn't work so I'm just going to chalk it up to my monitor not supporting the MHL signal. I suppose I shouldn't be too surprised since it is a computer monitor after all.
Hi All,
So I had what I thought was the genius idea of buying a Chrome Cast to hook up to my old projector for instant Netflix et al. cinema in my living room, it's all set up... screen, speakers everything but there's just one small problem, no picture.
The reason it isn't straightforward forward is that my projector is old enough not to have an HDMI port, though it does say that it supports HDMI on it's DVI port using an adaptor. (Which I can't find). Also of course I'd have no sound.
What I have...
So with a little research I bought this HDMI to VGA + 3.5mm Jack Audio Cable Video Converter Adapter, I also bought a couple of gender changers, one VGA and one HDMI to get the whole lot to stick together.
The projector is an Optoma ThemeScene H57, so quite old but actually pretty decent (hence reluctance to take the plunge on a new one and also because this was supposed to be a cheap project)
What is happening...
What I'm experiencing is a black screen, which I am now attributing to HDCP problems... the projector scans and detects that there is a source plugged in the way you'd expect and looks like it's gone through the process of adjusting to that source signal and then just happily displays a black screen. Occasionally it also says "Out of Range". The sound comes out garbled when trying to play netflix or youtube.
I have tried it with a VGA to DVI adaptor into the DVI input to witht he same result.
I have also tried plugging my Nexus 10 into the HDMI input on the convertor, this yields a different result, white static, but still no picture.
The projector does work... it's even briefly displayed a chrome logo when I tried factory resetting the Chromecast while it was plugged into the projector (via the adaptor obviously) but then just returned to the black screen.
A weird caveat to all this is if I play something on Play Music then I still get a black screen but the sound comes out fine.
What I plan to try
I read that HDCP can cause problems like this and that it can sometimes be fixed using a powered HDMI splitter. Apparently this negotiates the HDCP handshake with the Chromecast and then passes on the signal to the two output ports, which sounds a bit dodgy, why is it so simple to bypass? Plus it's £30 for one of those which means my cheap project is getting more and more expensive.
So...
Any help on this would be really REALLY appreciated. Please.
Crin said:
Hi All,
So I had what I thought was the genius idea of buying a Chrome Cast to hook up to my old projector for instant Netflix et al. cinema in my living room, it's all set up... screen, speakers everything but there's just one small problem, no picture.
The reason it isn't straightforward forward is that my projector is old enough not to have an HDMI port, though it does say that it supports HDMI on it's DVI port using an adaptor. (Which I can't find). Also of course I'd have no sound.
What I have...
So with a little research I bought this HDMI to VGA + 3.5mm Jack Audio Cable Video Converter Adapter, I also bought a couple of gender changers, one VGA and one HDMI to get the whole lot to stick together.
The projector is an Optoma ThemeScene H57, so quite old but actually pretty decent (hence reluctance to take the plunge on a new one and also because this was supposed to be a cheap project)
What is happening...
What I'm experiencing is a black screen, which I am now attributing to HDCP problems... the projector scans and detects that there is a source plugged in the way you'd expect and looks like it's gone through the process of adjusting to that source signal and then just happily displays a black screen. Occasionally it also says "Out of Range". The sound comes out garbled when trying to play netflix or youtube.
I have tried it with a VGA to DVI adaptor into the DVI input to witht he same result.
I have also tried plugging my Nexus 10 into the HDMI input on the convertor, this yields a different result, white static, but still no picture.
The projector does work... it's even briefly displayed a chrome logo when I tried factory resetting the Chromecast while it was plugged into the projector (via the adaptor obviously) but then just returned to the black screen.
A weird caveat to all this is if I play something on Play Music then I still get a black screen but the sound comes out fine.
What I plan to try
I read that HDCP can cause problems like this and that it can sometimes be fixed using a powered HDMI splitter. Apparently this negotiates the HDCP handshake with the Chromecast and then passes on the signal to the two output ports, which sounds a bit dodgy, why is it so simple to bypass? Plus it's for one of those which means my cheap project is getting more and more expensive.
So...
Any help on this would be really REALLY appreciated. Please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm afraid the only solution is to get an HDCP compliant projector...
CCast will only pass on HDCP info from the Device it is plugged into, but has no HDCP of it's own. And it can not be faked.
The Adapter will also break any HDCP as HDCP is meant to deny you the ability to do what your trying to do in the name of not letting you make copies of the content.
You will be fine with Content that does not require a HDCP signature to play (self ripped movies or non-DRM materials) but something like Netflix has little chance of working without some HDCP compliant device being connected the the CCast.
You can get a standard HDMI DVI adaptor for cheap, and maybe this will allow HDCP information to be kept. However you may be unable to keep the audio stream without a more elaborate device.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it? Is there such a thing as an HDCP respectful adaptor with an Audio splitter?
Crin said:
According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you're essentially converting a Digital signal to analog and HDCP only works via Digital.
A Real HDMI to DVI adapter as suggested may help but make sure in the specs it says it will pass HDCP.
And do make sure it also has Audio Breakout.
Crin said:
According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it? Is there such a thing as an HDCP respectful adaptor with an Audio splitter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your projector is a little newer than my Sony VPL-HS10, but it might have the same issue - the marketing wasn't 100%. My VPL-HS10 initially said it was HDCP-compliant on the DVI-D port, but ended up that it isn't. Well, it might be for a few select devices, but it isn't up-to-spec for the general standard.
What you really need is an HDCP stripper, but those are illegal in most parts (especially the US).
Your other potential problem is that the adapter may not be converting the HDMI timings over to VGA, and rather expecting the receiving device to compensate. Some can, some can't.
The specs for your projector says it has a DVI-I port, so it might accept analog on that port.
So first I'd try connecting DVI-to-VGA adapter (the ones that normally come with video cards to get VGA out of the DVI port) and connecting Chromecast --HDMI--> HDMI-to-VGA --VGA--> DVI-to-VGA adapter --DVI--> Projector and see if you get a different result on the DVI input - sometimes the scaler is separate or different for different inputs.
If that doesn't work, I recommend HDfury2 or newer - beware of counterfeits as there are many fakers online. I have successfully used HDfury products with my Sony projector from various sources. You'll want the HDfury2 or newer to get the audio breakout, which is a 3.5mm (1/8-inch) analog stereo and digital (optical TOSlink).
bhiga said:
What you really need is an HDCP stripper, but those are illegal in most parts (especially the US).
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to mention probably as expensive as a new Projector with HDMI and HDCP support! LOL
Crin, did you ever get this solved?
I bought the same stupid converter you showed in the image.
Looking to find a USB hub for my phone. I see a ton of them online, and some of them even kinda say they work with phones. But I know not all of them do. Looking for one that can output HDMI and has at least one USB-A input (two would be nice, but not a deal breaker). I do realize it'll probably require PD input, that's not a problem. [email protected] would be my preference too as a minimum. The goal is to use my phone as a portable gaming device, so I'm hoping to have low input lag for the wired controller.
My hope is somebody has found a decent one that they've tried with this phone and works. Would also accept testimony from people who have tried it on the V30, or any other flagship USB-C Android phone that isn't Samsung (they use DeX, I need no feedback on that).
So... Anybody got any personal experience to share on this topic? Realize it's kind of a tall order, but I'm hoping somebody has found one that works and is reasonably priced.
I too would like to know this if anyone has some info on it. At the moment i have tried 2 different docks, the Alogic USB-C Dock Plus which is just plain **** to say the least, if you connect the charger and HDMI it will eventually crash the systemui freezing you completely. The other dock i have tried is a Satechi Slim Multi_Port Adapter which works to HDMI but does'nt charge the device at all even though it has a charger slot for it & chargers my other phones fine plugged in via the same cable.
MS Display Dock
I have used a Microsoft Display Dock, has 2 USB A-Ports, HDMI, DisplayPort, & charges simultaneously. The Razer Phone work fine with it (TESTED), but honestly the phone seems to be capable of being compatible with any Hub save the ones for the Nintendo Switch. Being that the Microsoft Display Dock is discontinued & old, you can probably find good bargains from 30$ or more. While it is name brand and, from personal experience, its a well built piece of tech, you might want to consider how you plan to listen to your device, and think about adapters with Aux-out if you plan to used wired headphones.
I was goofing around at work and we have these USB c travel adapters that have a USB, HDMI, Ethernet, and vga out, but can't charge at the came time. Upon further goofing around I plugged in Dell WD15 dock, bingo, full output on everything. Comes with a charger so it charges, Ethernet, display port, vga, USB ports. They run about 130 on Amazon right now. Plugged in our projector to it, then some external speakers, Bluetooth my gamepad to it. Loaded my some emulators and I was playing Mario kart while taking some support calls.