Hey all,
Before I even start here, please no snide replies about using the search box on here or anywhere... if the answer is out there, I'm at a loss for the keywords to get it. Fair enough? As FYI, bootloader is (was??) unlocked, rooted, and has cwm recovery.
So I dropped my MB886 cracking the screen (round of applause please) and in the process of disassembling the case to install replacement I tore (severed) the battery connection cable. Fast forward to phone now reassembled with new screen and battery installed --> -->
The phone now has a green LED that will respond with blinks to button certain presses i.e. the simulated battery pull, but the device doesn't show up in lsusb output or device manager. I've read of similar problems where the phone has been brought back, and I've read of the exact problem with no solution. Basically the only two things I've really read that supposedly work are battery pull button sequence and using OEM charger/cable to get battery to take a charge.
Unlike, say the Atrix 2 where the lonely white LED is there to serve as a reminder that it is a hard brick and that's all you're ever going to get from it again, I haven't even read that this is in fact the #1 sign device is now a brick. So could someone verify it is or isn't? I've never tried to access a device this way, but Is JTAG an option?
I don't get why this should be, despite battery issue, it's all simple hardware swapping involved here as the software wasn't touched and was 100% working even with cracked screen.
Thanks for anyone with an answer or the direction to one.
2 things it could be then: you over- or under-tightened the new battery cable screws to where there isn't a good connection with the board. The screws have to provide equal pressure on the positive or negative contacts or otherwise there's a fault in the circuit.
OR
Your new LCD/digitizer is defective OR wasn't seated well.
Since it was working before, and since you didn't break anything else (to your knowledge), those are the two things I would check.
Dr. Orange said:
2 things it could be then: you over- or under-tightened the new battery cable screws to where there isn't a good connection with the board. The screws have to provide equal pressure on the positive or negative contacts or otherwise there's a fault in the circuit.
OR
Your new LCD/digitizer is defective OR wasn't seated well.
Since it was working before, and since you didn't break anything else (to your knowledge), those are the two things I would check.
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Click to collapse
--
hey, thanks for the input. I remember battery connections being snugged when I originally took it apart, and to be honest, short of having a mini torque wrench I don't know I could put them back any closer to that. the digitizer could certainly be either defective or perhaps have a bad connection, and i am certainly willing to test/check for either, however do you know that this would prevent the phone from booting or cause it to only display the green led as a sign of life? something of the "halt on all errors" in pc bios? seems logical that the led would (or could've) been used like the oc speaker and blink out some code relaying you've got a bad O2 sensor or the gas cap isn't tight.
Over tightening can cause problems. So loosen them a bit if it's just-short-of torque wrench tight. I don't know why it does, but I've read people had problems when they over tightened those screws. That green light could be telling you that the battery is connected poorly.
Is there a possibility that the battery is so depleted that it won't charge? For that, you need a factory cable to charge the battery with power off.
Sorry, to clarify, no I just snugged the battery connections when reassembling, I only meant that i don't think i could get them any closer to the way they were originally without aid of something like a torque wrench.
As for battery charge as a potential issue... to be fair, I only have a OEM Moto wall charger and I think the cable I am using is Samsung. Surely the cable itself isn't the weak link in this chain? A car battery on a multimeter reading 12.0 volts is something like 50% charged and about 12.8 volts is looking pretty good, anyone know what I should get out of the 3.8V Li-Ion on a meter?
PS I double checked the both data cable connections to the motherboard, so I doubt just a bad connection is to blame here.
slerros-1.0 said:
Sorry, to clarify, no I just snugged the battery connections when reassembling, I only meant that i don't think i could get them any closer to the way they were originally without aid of something like a torque wrench.
As for battery charge as a potential issue... to be fair, I only have a OEM Moto wall charger and I think the cable I am using is Samsung. Surely the cable itself isn't the weak link in this chain? A car battery on a multimeter reading 12.0 volts is something like 50% charged and about 12.8 volts is looking pretty good, anyone know what I should get out of the 3.8V Li-Ion on a meter?
PS I double checked the both data cable connections to the motherboard, so I doubt just a bad connection is to blame here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should get from 3.8 to 4.1.
slerros-1.0 said:
As for battery charge as a potential issue... to be fair, I only have a OEM Moto wall charger and I think the cable I am using is Samsung. Surely the cable itself isn't the weak link in this chain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I say "factory" cable, I'm not talking about the cable that came with the phone. There is a special Motorola cable (that you can even make yourself) that can charge your phone in situations when your phone is normally not willing to accept a charge.
If all else fails, try this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1077414
Yes! This is brilliant and certainly answers a few questions. It'll take me a bit to get this together to try it, but I'll post back when I get a result. Cheers!
slerros-1.0 said:
Yes! This is brilliant and certainly answers a few questions. It'll take me a bit to get this together to try it, but I'll post back when I get a result. Cheers!
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Click to collapse
Scratch my previous answer. Seems I misunderstood what a "factory cable" is for. It can't actually charge your battery, instead it is used to power the phone so that you can flash/diagnose it, even when your battery is dead. Normally, you need a working phone to charge the battery (with the stock "charging cable").
This information may or may not help you. At the very least, using a "factory cable" may allow you to power your phone on, which would tell you whether the problem is your battery or the phone.
quasihellfish said:
Scratch my previous answer. Seems I misunderstood what a "factory cable" is for. It can't actually charge your battery, instead it is used to power the phone so that you can flash/diagnose it, even when your battery is dead. Normally, you need a working phone to charge the battery (with the stock "charging cable").
This information may or may not help you. At the very least, using a "factory cable" may allow you to power your phone on, which would tell you whether the problem is your battery or the phone.
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Click to collapse
well, i'll take it regardless... i've acquired one of these mythical factory cables and it gets me into fastboot and recovery, so i'd wager, even though i haven't seen it, that it would boot all the way. so being that i don't have either the original charger (although have one that's motorola) or cable (samsung), my best bet is probably just find a store that has both an OEM motorola charger and cable even if they're not for the MB886? surely one for a moto x would work to charge battery, no?
or is this like a chicken and egg problem i now have? a catch 22? i can't charge the battery without a working phone, and i can't have a working phone without a charged battery? golly gee, anybody out there with an MB886 want to charge my battery for me? can i just hotwire the battery to a couple of leads from a charger and bypass using the phone as the charging device? at least to give the battery say 15%-20% to get something to happen... like get this rain cloud perpetually parked above me to blow over from above my head for a day or two maybe?
so, with phone plugged in with "factory cable" here's what i get and when... the phone bootloops on the "bootloader unlocked" warning screen if i don't press anything. volume down gets me fastboot, volume up gets me recovery. phone shows up in both and takes commands... so is it possible i just need to restore a nandroid backup, or is the battery charge the better bet now? i would just try the nandroid for $h!ts and giggles, but the last one i have isn't as fresh as i'd like, but is certainly usable if i must.
slerros-1.0 said:
well, i'll take it regardless... i've acquired one of these mythical factory cables and it gets me into fastboot and recovery, so i'd wager, even though i haven't seen it, that it would boot all the way. so being that i don't have either the original charger (although have one that's motorola) or cable (samsung), my best bet is probably just find a store that has both an OEM motorola charger and cable even if they're not for the MB886? surely one for a moto x would work to charge battery, no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any generic USB charging cable SHOULD be good enough to charge and flash your phone, especially a Motorola cable. I'm currently using an old Blackberry cable for everything. They should be all the same. In rare instances, a cheap cable may give you issues (I think I had a cable from an old Samsung phone that I couldn't get to work right).
I guess just keep trying until you find one that works. Hate to tell you to go spend $20+ on an official Motorola charger...
Regarding your battery, yes you may be in a bit of a pickle. I've never had to do it, but I've read of users who had to short some leads in order to directly charge the battery. Trying searching through the forums, I'm sure the info is here.
---------- Post added at 02:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:55 PM ----------
slerros-1.0 said:
or is this like a chicken and egg problem i now have? a catch 22? i can't charge the battery without a working phone, and i can't have a working phone without a charged battery? golly gee, anybody out there with an MB886 want to charge my battery for me? can i just hotwire the battery to a couple of leads from a charger and bypass using the phone as the charging device? at least to give the battery say 15%-20% to get something to happen... like get this rain cloud perpetually parked above me to blow over from above my head for a day or two maybe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=892026
All hope is lost, I am now looking for a replacement.
Ok, so here's where I am at with this now... As we're basically talking about any regulated power supply that can put out an excess of (around) 3.8V and 800mA I've opted to use an old ATX computer power supply and wired the mini B USB end of a cable known to have in fact to have charged this very phone... nothing. I have also, for sake of hope, even tried using the wall wort from an iPad (which puts out a cool 5.1V and up to 2.1A). The green LED will shut off after a while of being plugged into said charger, but still no booty action.
As stated before, the phone still works with the factory cable.
So, I gather from this that...
A. some hardware component (i.e. resistor, etc...) on my phones board that is involved in the charging process has gone kaput.
or
B. There is some software flag flipped somewhere that could be unflipped with or without some trickery to what actually is VS what I want the phone to think it's seeing.
Anyone have any thoughts on this or something similar pertaining to B as a course of action?
*update to my update* ... umm, which should now be up to date??
I did a complete wipe of the phone (/system, /data, /data/media, /cache, and /dalvik-cache) and reinstalled the rom... and still nothing.
Related
so pretty much we had a blackout on campus and my phone was low on battery. to salvage my laptop's battery, i used the USB charger on the phone while the laptop was closed and barely even booted up (did not "log in" to windows). so, later in the night my battery went dead, and i'm sure my turning it on and off 15 times with a empty battery just to see the home screen did not help.
next day, I plug in the charger and get the RED LIGHT!!!
i give the phone "CPR" and plug it back in the charger to get an amber light a few minutes later. The phone eventually charged to 30% before i took it out with me to lunch, when I got back I plugged it back in and now it would would not charge at all. the battery % would just gradually decrease.
i tried cleaning the battery connections with alcohol and im pretty sure this made the sticker turn pink (means "water damage"), and att wont give mea new one because of this.
anything i can do?
PS- i never got the red light back since i "fixed" it the first time, now i need to plug it in to turn the phone on and even then it turns off after 2-4 minutes by itself!!! If plugged into wall charger without a battery i just get a red flashing light. with batter, a constant amber.
Take it into a store and try swapping out the battery temporarily with one from the one in the store - if it works then purchase a new battery?
UPDATE
not an option, dont have any stores by me and have no car .
***update - i did use the usb charge trick but splitting the wires and connecting to the battery for 5 or so minutes.. it got up to 17% but is now going back down even though its plugged into the wall charger
Did they ask you if the sticker was pink? Did you yell at a manager or something. Just because the sticker is that color doesn't mean there is damage.
If the sticker is not the default color, they won't warranty the phone. That's just how it is. Someone might get lucky and they do it anyway, but in general that's their policy.
Why else would the plaster the stupid things in 6+ places in/on the phone?
I still don't buy the "I got it wet cleaning the contacts" part myself. But the overall story seems unfortunately common for the Kaiser (other phones too?) with it deciding to die after the battery gets too low. Most people have decided it's not the battery that fails and even if they get the phone to charge, it does not work properly afterwords.
I think HTC should take some responsibility here.
OK, I finally got to try a seperate battery and the charger still would not charge the battery (the charger used was also a new one). What can I do!? Should I buy a parted one from ebay and replace something?
theromanone said:
and replace something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The whole mainboard...
is that possible, something anyone could do themselves?
kilrah said:
The whole mainboard...
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Click to collapse
wow, i hope it is not that!
anyone else have suggestions on how to fix my kaiser?
-better yet, any successful repairs of this? thanks!
this is old and all, but i finally now have another kaiser to fool around and part out.. any suggestions?
well first off if there is truely water damage and not just a freek bricking then i would try the rice trick first, simply place the phone on a box of rice for a week (or silica gel). not u can not reflash the device because u can not get a 50% charge correct? it almost sounds if the battery is dieing that quickly that u have a short somewhere in the phone cuasing the displacment of energy, also i know that i had a phone a while back (not an htc) but it would only take a charge from a car charger, so try possible expermenting with USB/WALL/CAR chargers. if i were u i probably wouldnt take the phone completely apart unless u are sure that neither the original or the parts phone can be used as anything more than a paper weight.
on an un-related subject if ur looking for a replacment i have a tilt i am looking to sell if u want to pm me we could negotiate a price.
thanks for the reply, i ended up leaving it in the wall charger overnight, and if charged up to 17%, so it is working, i'll try other methods as well.
if it bombs, i'm sure you'll be receiving a pm very soon!
theromanone said:
i ended up leaving it in the wall charger overnight, and if charged up to 17%, so it is working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've cleaned the battery terminals and spring contacts many times on my TyTN II and not had this problem since. The key is to use a cotton bud sprayed with contact cleaner/IPA to rub the contact cleaner on/off and not spray it around the area directly. If a cotton bud isn't used as well as the contact cleaner/IPA then much of the grime wont be cleaned off. This still sounds like a conductivity issue to me.
still not clear what you think happened...
in any case, using a FULLY CHARGED BATTERY (charge it using something else, or just jimmy rig to the battery terminals for a while), does the Tilt function properly ? If so, then the most it can be is the charging circuit of the Tilt. Worse case, get one of those charging cradles and charge your battery on that instead (a pain, but cheaper than replacing a Tilt)...
in other words, I wouldn't give up just yet, given what it sounds like has happened...
does the tilt function when plugged into a powered USB port ?
I was unplugging my usb cable after flashing my phone and it pulled the pins and little charging thing out of my kaiser, now its just a hole with nothing inside, is this expensive to mend? basically it wont charge with charger or computer as there is nothing inside!!!!!!!!!! HELP!
biggary said:
is this expensive to mend?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Depends who you get to do the work (or if you buy the part and do the work yourself). If you review the Kaiser Service Manual (avail through the Kaiser wiki here on xda-dev), it provides part no details etc and shows you pics of what you're in for. All is not lost although it does make me wonder how pulling the plug *out* caused this problem - what is there to snag
Oh and most people will refer to that as the USB connector (whereas the charging block is commonly the thing you plug into the mains socket).
Please search XDA, this has been address in one way or another many, many times. Search for broken USB port. You can buy the the porst and try the impossible micro-soldering repair, or send it off and have it fixed. One service a lot of poeple use is http://www.ppctechs.com/ I think they charge $79 to repalce it.
If you want to see what is involved in doing it yourself; and why I will never try, look at post 4 here:
http://www.modaco.com/content/smart...hf-mini-usb-replacement-project/#entry1001118
I busted my plug and did not have enough to get it fixed, and there is not way I was going to try and fix it myself. I got a cradle with a battery charger from ebay; it even included an extra battery. I just leave one battery charging and swicth them when they die. It sucks becasue I have to take my back cover off every day; but it was only like $10.
Hey all,
I got my Droid 4 a month ago and rooted it. It ran out of power while I was outside. When I tried charging it, a battery icon with a question mark comes up. I can't boot to Safestrap, and when I go to Fastboot, it says "Battery Low -- Cannot Program".
The phone doesn't turn on unless I plug it into the wall charger. If I plug it into the USB port on my laptop, the green LED comes on, but it won't turn on. I can boot to Android recovery, and I tried formatting /data and /cache, but that didn't help.
Funny thing: I can keep the phone in Android recovery, leave it plugged in, and it charges up enough to stay on for a while when I unplug it.
Now, I know about the Macgyver trick, and I'd like to give that a shot. iFixit has a fantastic teardown of the Droid 4, but unfortunately, removing the battery would very clearly void my warranty (although I guess having Safestrap voids that already), and I'm worried about doing permanent damage to my device. Are there any solutions besides "beg Verizon for a new phone"? Has anyone tried Macgyvering a Droid 4?
Curious, if you do BP Tools, does it drop you into Safestrap? I know mine does, and then maybe you can change some settings. Also, you could try to make a "Factory Cable". I know I made mine from my old OG Droid dock as it had the 5 wire jumper, and just jumped the 2 wires and it allowed me to flash w/o a charged battery.
I would ensure that the charger is putting out 5.1v and 850mA as my d4 won't charge or power on after the battery dies unless its with the factory charger or one that meets these specs
Sent from my DROID4 using XDA
Soulmech said:
Funny thing: I can keep the phone in Android recovery, leave it plugged in, and it charges up enough to stay on for a while when I unplug it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried leaving it plugged in for an extended period of time, say overnight, and see if it'll boot up?
gdeeble said:
Curious, if you do BP Tools, does it drop you into Safestrap? I know mine does, and then maybe you can change some settings. Also, you could try to make a "Factory Cable". I know I made mine from my old OG Droid dock as it had the 5 wire jumper, and just jumped the 2 wires and it allowed me to flash w/o a charged battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just tried BP Tools. It lets me drop into Safestrap, but Safestrap won't load due to the battery issue.
Hope you don't mind me asking, but what's a factory cable? Is it just a USB cable with the B end cut off, and the black and red wires stripped? My issue with jumping the device/battery is that I'm unable (or supposed to be unable) to remove the battery, so any solution along those lines would have to allow me to keep the battery in place. Otherwise, my warranty is voided.
I know root voids it, but I'd have a better chance of sneaking that by than an obviously-moved battery.
dbreezy187 said:
I would ensure that the charger is putting out 5.1v and 850mA as my d4 won't charge or power on after the battery dies unless its with the factory charger or one that meets these specs
Sent from my DROID4 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the charger that came with the phone. It says 5.1V/850mA on the side.
bdbraaten said:
Have you tried leaving it plugged in for an extended period of time, say overnight, and see if it'll boot up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried it last night. Left it in recovery for a good 8 hours or so. No dice.
Did you try opening it, then removing the battery? If you pull up too hard with out a removal tool, the glue is strong enough to allow the battery to bend and break internally, causing this error. Might check if another battery works, there are some available online if you search.
nequeelrey said:
Did you try opening it, then removing the battery? If you pull up too hard with out a removal tool, the glue is strong enough to allow the battery to bend and break internally, causing this error. Might check if another battery works, there are some available online if you search.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't the reason the battery is non-removable because the type of battery chemistry used can explode of that type of damage occurs? Or do they just hate us?
Has anybody ever been turned down for warranty work that is hardware related, even if they are rooted, etc? I've never heard of it happening...
If OP get a dud battery, s/he should just get it replaced by Moto. They shouldn't have to try to replace it themselves.
Try the instructions from this thread and let us know if it works...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23678683&postcount=1
The OP said they tried the BP Tools method but it is disabled due to Safe strap using that as the trigger for its bootstrapped recovery.
Using a factory cable would allow you to boot the phone and either flash the stock firmware or uninstall Safe strap and let you charge the phone while in BP Tools mode.
That is the only safe a certain way to recover the device. Hot wiring the battery with a USB cable cannot be considered safe, but will work if you want to fix it yourself without a factory cable.
Using a factory cable to flash the full XML.zip with RSD Lite is the first thing a technician would do to restore it if it was returned under warranty anyway, after checking for physical damage of course.
I've got a few factory cables laying around and would be more than happy to send you one, let me know. Just cover the postage and you'll be flashing in no time.
So to update: I have an insurance policy with Global Warranty Group, and I filed a claim with them, which got me a new device (instead of a refurb). So, I suppose the issue is moot.
Rick#2 said:
I've got a few factory cables laying around and would be more than happy to send you one, let me know. Just cover the postage and you'll be flashing in no time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would be grateful if you could send me one. I will PM you to figure out details on paying you for postage.
The same thing is happening to me and I have Droid X, any help?
Will BP work after removing safestrap from the advanced menu? If so I think you could use that link to charge from BP.
Sent from my DROID4 using xda premium
usb cable splice works
Just chiming in here to confirm a spliced usb cable will charge an xt894 battery. my situation was pretty much an xt894 with a wiped system (therefore, unable to charge) and not enough battery to fastboot. if I plugged it into a charger or a 5v usb slot from my computer just a green led would show on the front, but no charge. I removed my battery, cut a usb cable in half, and hooked up the wires to the coresponding terminals on the battery (which are clearly marked) and it charged up just fine and I was able to fastboot.
Not the prettiest solution, but it really helped me out when I absolutely needed to charge in order to fastboot, although it will void your warranty if that's important to you.
I currently have a problem where the question mark shows in the battery while charging and I'm unable to boot into OS or safestrap. I'm not at home right now, but I have an extra battery that I'll pop in later to see if that changes anything, or has enough juice to fastboot.
This morning my wife woke up to no battery charge, because I stole her charger in the night. But she has the question mark even though the phone was working fine last night! I wonder, considering I left the USB cord plugged in on the D4 end when I took the charger (to use my cord) could I have screwed something up? She's going to leave it in the OEM charger all day at work, but the quesiton mark worries me.
My question is, if I do the cut cord trick to manually charge the battery at the terminals, does that help recover it so that it can be charged via regular means? Or is it just a way to get the data off the phone? Phone is stock 4.1 with root.
My phones been dead for about a month, most hope was given up but heres my last ditch. I updated to android N preview. Used it like normal. The last day (before my phone ate ****) i was having problems charging it. It wasnt accepting the charge almost as if my "Quickcharge 2.0" had stopped. In fact it would discharge while connected to turbo charger. Anyways that day i went swimming, where i live its very hot i left it on the charger near the pool and it had gotten super hot. So i took it off and put it in a chair and it was on again super hot (hot enough that it burnt my hand when i touched the glass) and it was still on it hadnt shut off. Some people there put it in their cooler for me and that was that, although i noticed a burn mark on the actual usb port on the phone itself. Fast forward a few hours. I was skyping some chick got off skype. Turned my phone off in the hopes it would charge faster. ( it was at 13%) plugged it into the charger, Nothing. Tried to turn it on, Nothing. I finally got it to boot up ( i had to press the **** out of the power button) and the google logo came up. Then it turned off. Tried again to power it on. Same thing, google logo dead. Left it on the wall charger for an hour. tried to power it up, nothing. Used a samsung wireless charger on it for close to 3 hours. Tried to power it up. Still nothing. Power + Vol Down. Nope nada. Opened it up checked the wires everything was plugged in and secure. I didnt make it any further than the backplate because i stripped the screws. Since then its just sat on my shelf, but today i dropped it on my foot and i decieded to see if it would turn on, so i plugged it into my pc (and this is honestly the reason im writing this) and i wiggled the charger around and my pc actually "sensed" it. It said that "The usb device has malfunctioned" so idk what that means. Maybe its still there maybe not. Ik that if i can get my pc to recognize it again it will be difficult as that port on the phone is on its LAST leg.
Let me know what you guys think. Sorry for the short story. Just want to make sure you know everything as it happened
Also when i plug it into the wall, or use the Qi charger on it the device heats up/gets warm. Again dont know if its anything but the more the better.
Could be anything really, possibly a bad battery, if the QI charger isn't helping. How old is the device, and when did the usb burn mark appear?
Okay so I am going to give my best guess here, that the battery in your phone has gone bad, and it was killed by your charger going bad with an electrical short circuit.
Here is my reasons for think that...
Currently your phone won't accept a charge at all, so that leads me to believe that the battery has gone bad.
As for my suspicion that your charger went bad, I have had two different quality brand chargers (HTC and Samsung) go bad on me over the last 3 years or so.
Both times the charger failures caused the same symptoms on my phone that you described...the phone getting extremely hot, and the battery discharging, while connected to the charger, instead of charging.
Luckily for me, in both cases, my phone batteries did not completely croak.
In one case the battery did bulge out the phone, but it was an older HTC M7 and it kept working.
In the other case, I noticed that hot phone and the discharging, and immediately unplugged the charger and tossed it in the trash.
So that is just my two-cents.
KCT1975 said:
Okay so I am going to give my best guess here, that the battery in your phone has gone bad, and it was killed by your charger going bad with an electrical short circuit.
Here is my reasons for think that...
Currently your phone won't accept a charge at all, so that leads me to believe that the battery has gone bad.
As for my suspicion that your charger went bad, I have had two different quality brand chargers (HTC and Samsung) go bad on me over the last 3 years or so.
Both times the charger failures caused the same symptoms on my phone that you described...the phone getting extremely hot, and the battery discharging, while connected to the charger, instead of charging.
Luckily for me, in both cases, my phone batteries did not completely croak.
In one case the battery did bulge out the phone, but it was an older HTC M7 and it kept working.
In the other case, I noticed that hot phone and the discharging, and immediately unplugged the charger and tossed it in the trash.
So that is just my two-cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What advices do you have to avoid this kind of problem?
Okay guys. I would have to check the IMEI to give you hard facts for the dates. Which I can do im just at work. But last I looked it was manufactured in, March of 2014 or close to that. Ik for a fact that he model was an XT1103 it was completely factory unlocked however my bootloader was locked. Storage was encrypted. And it was the 32gb version. Yes! It could quite possibly be my battery.
Before all this started I was having trouble getting it to charge and I was using a Samsung mini USB with it. But the outlets at the pool I don't think are designed to charge phones. Anyways the burn mark on my USB port showed up the same day. I just didn't notice it (I think) until later that day,but after I got it my phone no longer charged. It would either discharge off the charger, or discharge slower on it.
thetransit123 said:
What advices do you have to avoid this kind of problem?
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Click to collapse
Sorry for the delay in replying...RF got in the way.
Anyways...I really can't offer much 'technical advice'. I can, however, offer some practical advice.
1. Use brand name chargers or be careful if you do use an off-brand charger.
2. If you are charging your phone (either on a brand name charger or an off-brand charger), and you either feel it getting hot or you see it discharging (or both) immediately unplug your phone and throw away the charger.
3. If you do notice that the battery on your phone is bulging, either replace the battery or if it is a sealed device, replace the phone.
Honestly, that is the only advice I can give.
So guys ive decided i m gonna go ahead and try and replace my battery since its rather inexpensive, im gonna order the parts from ifixit. such as anew midframe and battery. It should be done hopefully by next week. Im still completely open to opinions. When its complete ill make a post.
KCT1975 said:
Sorry for the delay in replying...RF got in the way.
Anyways...I really can't offer much 'technical advice'. I can, however, offer some practical advice.
1. Use brand name chargers or be careful if you do use an off-brand charger.
2. If you are charging your phone (either on a brand name charger or an off-brand charger), and you either feel it getting hot or you see it discharging (or both) immediately unplug your phone and throw away the charger.
3. If you do notice that the battery on your phone is bulging, either replace the battery or if it is a sealed device, replace the phone.
Honestly, that is the only advice I can give.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my case, i use aukey quick charge 2.0 and it works great, when i charge the phone, i do it on the night and try to not use when it charge, i dont like to charge with scrap chargers, but thanks for the advice, i will take care on that :laugh:
Alright well today my screwdrivers (ordered from china) came i disassembled the phone, havent gotten my battery yet but theres some things i would like to note. The first being that the old battery had alot of corrosion along with its contact to to mobo. ill update when i get the new battery in.
1) Can't charge while it is in normal mode.
2) Can't charge with USB C to C
3) Can only charge using USB A to C, while the phone is turned off. It still splashes the logo and vibrates repeatedly.
The port is not visible to any laptop, so adb and fastboot seem out of the question.
The stock recovery on this device has "apply update from SD card", so I need to figure out how an update.zip should look like.
Razer have a bunch of older stock ROMs on their site.
Can I just take the latest, rename it update.zip, put it on a micro SD and use the stock recovery to fix things?
Just saw the tear down. It's worse than my N10+ port PCB to replace.
However if the battery is getting near its lifespan maybe now is the time as the battery needs to come out anyway to replace the port PCB.
The port PCB price is probably low.
blackhawk said:
Just saw the tear down. It's worse than my N10+ port PCB to replace.
However if the battery is getting near its lifespan maybe now is the time as the battery needs to come out anyway to replace the port PCB.
The port PCB price is probably low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The other thing I just found is that when I use "apply update from ADB" it used to complain about init.usb.rc, init.usb.configfs.rc. I looked at both files. 0B length with 1969 date on them. What?
There must be some way to flash a recovery from the sd card instead of using the USB port.
The thing is the battery held the whole day after a night charge yesterday, so probably not the battery. I have a feeling some apps I used to "improve" the battery and "fix" the system deleted some bits.
pensive said:
The other thing I just found is that when I use "apply update from ADB" it used to complained about is init.usb.rc, init.usb.configfs.rc. I looked at both files. 0B length with 1969 date on them. What?
There must be some way to flash a recovery from the sd card instead of using the USB port.
The thing is the battery held the whole day after a night charge yesterday, so probably not the battery. I have a feeling some apps I used to "improve" the battery and "fix" the system deleted some bits.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a bad usb port PCB I would replace it now.
They can cause a lot of mischief and in other services that you never expect it to.
The battery is cheap so it's easiest to replace it at the same time as you need to pull it anyway.
200 or more full charge cycles, replace.
One more thing. I bought a wireless charger to see if it is 100% the port, and the wireless charger has not made anything easier. It seems not capable of getting any charge in. So at the moment I have only one to charge it, turn it off and use USB A to USB C cable.
pensive said:
One more thing. I bought a wireless charger to see if it is 100% the port, and the wireless charger has not made anything easier. It seems not capable of getting any charge in. So at the moment I have only one to charge it, turn it off and use USB A to USB C cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably a defective charge port PCB... you can try a factory reset or reflashing the stock firmware if really want to test it.
Check for any signs of battery (rear panel or display bulging) swelling; replace battery asap if present! Batteries can fail at any time.
blackhawk said:
Probably a defective charge port PCB... you can try a factory reset or reflashing the stock firmware if really want to test it.
Check for any signs of battery (rear panel or display bulging) swelling; replace battery asap if present! Batteries can fail at any time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have now done the factory reset, didn't help. Nothing is bulging. I would like to flash a fresh factory ROM, but I have no access to the port. So, no fastboot and no adb. I can't even install proper drivers in Win10 PRO since the laptop does not recognize the phone, at all.
I am searching now for any solutions with the sd card. People used to do that, updates with *.zip on an sd.
Since it is out of warranty anyway now, I have finally unlocked the bootloader.
I am trying to find out if the ROMs Razer provide on their site are signed or not.
pensive said:
I have now done the factory reset, didn't help. Nothing is bulging. I would like to flash a fresh factory ROM, but I have no access to the port. So, no fastboot and no adb. I can't even install proper drivers in Win10 PRO since the laptop does not recognize the phone, at all.
I am searching now for any solutions with the sd card. People used to do that, updates with *.zip on an sd.
Since it is out of warranty anyway now, I have finally unlocked the bootloader.
I am trying to find out if the ROMs Razer provide on their site are signed or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The port PCB needs replaced... if you're lucky that's it.
Don't make it harder than it needs too be...
blackhawk said:
The port PCB needs replaced... if you're lucky that's it.
Don't make it harder than it needs too be...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if you have had a chance to see the USB port assembly on Ebay? Some prices are close to $120. Add to that labor costs (unless you think I should do the deed myself) or costs for tools and fresh adhesive for the plastic that covers speakers, etc... and it is going cost me more than I paid for it new.
OEM RAZER PHONE 2 RZ35-0259 REPLACEMENT USB_FLEX_C FLEX CABLE RIBBON CONNECTOR | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for OEM RAZER PHONE 2 RZ35-0259 REPLACEMENT USB_FLEX_C FLEX CABLE RIBBON CONNECTOR at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
blackhawk said:
OEM RAZER PHONE 2 RZ35-0259 REPLACEMENT USB_FLEX_C FLEX CABLE RIBBON CONNECTOR | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for OEM RAZER PHONE 2 RZ35-0259 REPLACEMENT USB_FLEX_C FLEX CABLE RIBBON CONNECTOR at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thank you for finding this, but it looks like the ribon connector wire only. The PCB besides the port also has the microphone, I think. It appears to be sold as a unit. If the problem is the wire, then sure this would be the part.
In any case, I have managed to get the wireless charger to charge. Depending on how fast the charge will be lost today will tell say something about the battery.
pensive said:
Ok, thank you for finding this, but it looks like the ribon connector wire only. The PCB besides the port also has the microphone, I think. It appears to be sold as a unit. If the problem is the wire, then sure this would be the part.
In any case, I have managed to get the wireless charger to charge. Depending on how fast the charge will be lost today will tell say something about the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm just saying keep looking. I was surprised at the apparent lack of availability though.
Meh I feel your pain...
Maybe one of the mainstream parts venders or buy a cheap Ebay one with busted display.
My Note 10+'s port PCB goes for $20, that surprised me.
blackhawk said:
If you have a bad usb port PCB I would replace it now.
They can cause a lot of mischief and in other services that you never expect it to.
The battery is cheap so it's easiest to replace it at the same time as you need to pull it anyway.
200 or more full charge cycles, replace.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately replacing the USB charge board and port in the phone doesn't always fix it. I have a box of nearly a dozen RP2 main boards I need to dig through to figure out what the actual cause of the charging boot loop
KaptinBoxxi said:
Unfortunately replacing the USB charge board and port in the phone doesn't always fix it. I have a box of nearly a dozen RP2 main boards I need to dig through to figure out what the actual cause of the charging boot loop
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you played with any OS shortcut apps on it?
The Android Setup apk will get screwed up if you access it after the original setup.
Specifically it will alter the port behavior when you connect with it. Very irritating, took me days to finally track it down on my 10+
If you clear it's data in settings it may leave the null mark that's screwing it up. Some 3rd party apps can completely clear that null mark.
Otherwise factory reset.
blackhawk said:
Have you played with any OS shortcut apps on it?
The Android Setup apk will get screwed up if you access it after the original setup.
Specifically it will alter the port behavior when you connect with it. Very irritating, took me days to finally track it down on my 10+
If you clear it's data in settings it may leave the null mark that's screwing it up. Some 3rd party apps can completely clear that null mark.
Otherwise factory reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a hardware issue, nothing any kind of reset can fix or app clearing. Even if you have the device entirely powered off, plug it in on anything 2Amp or higher, it'll loop
KaptinBoxxi said:
This is a hardware issue, nothing any kind of reset can fix or app clearing. Even if you have the device entirely powered off, plug it in on anything 2Amp or higher, it'll loop
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not how the issue I saw behaved; only happened with the device powered on and it didn't boot loop. Just an annoying pop up message.
If it has a port PCB, try replacing that. If it's just a charge port with no components on it... it's likely either corrupted firmware (reflash) or a mobo failure.
A loose connection or bad contact is also possible.
That's my guess...